Ceiling panels are glossy. Installation instructions for plastic ceiling panels

A ceiling made of plastic ceiling panels is one of the options for suspended ceilings. Such ceilings are usually installed in bathrooms, corridors and in the kitchen.

A room finished with a plastic ceiling does not look very comfortable. Installation of plastic ceiling panels in the bedroom is undesirable. No matter how manufacturers claim that the material is absolutely harmless, decorating the ceilings with plastic for rooms in which you are for a long time is not the best option. In addition, if the length of the room is more than 3 meters, you will have to join the panels, and this looks ugly.

How to choose the required materials

The choice of plastic panels for the ceiling

Light-colored panels are usually used for finishing ceilings.

On sale there are panels with a color that imitates a slatted ceiling. In terms of cost, plastic ceiling panels are much cheaper than aluminum slats for finishing the ceiling, and by their appearance it is sometimes difficult to distinguish a plastic ceiling from an aluminum slatted ceiling.

Such panels have standard dimensions - width 240 mm, length 3000 mm.

In the photo - plastic panels imitating a rack ceiling.

The advantages of finishing the ceiling with plastic panels include quick installation. The ceiling does not need to be leveled with plaster mixes. The ability to insert spotlights into the suspended ceiling allows you to create a cozy lighting of the room. The price of plastic ceiling panels is available for economy class renovations.

Calculation of materials

You will need:

panels
aluminum profile
dowels
galvanized self-tapping screws with a press washer
ceiling plinth
electrical cable

Standard panels are 24 cm wide and 2.7 m or 3 m long. Divide the room width by the panel width. When planning the finishing of ceilings in two rooms, consider how it is more profitable to mount panels so that the trim can be used in the toilet or on the balcony.

Buy panels designed specifically for ceilings. Wall panels are stronger and heavier in weight. Strength is not required for ceiling panels, but excess weight will create unnecessary stress on the ceiling frame.

You will need an aluminum profile to mount the panels. It is allowed to mount plastic ceiling panels on a lathing made of wooden beams, but in wet rooms it is better to use a profile. The timber deforms over time from moisture and the panels can warp.

A guiding U-shaped profile with a section of 27-28 mm is mounted along the perimeter of the room. It has a PN mark, or PNP marking - a ceiling guide profile.

To figure out which profile serves for what purposes, consider the photo. It is not difficult to calculate the number of the guide profile. The profile is produced in a length of 3 m. Divide the perimeter of the room by 3 and round up to a whole number.

To form the frame, you will need a ceiling profile - PP. Such a profile is installed perpendicular to the panels every 60 cm. Based on the width of the room, you can calculate how many ceiling profiles are needed.

Suspensions are needed to fix the ceiling profile.

Suspensions are attached at a distance from the wall - 30 cm, then - after 60 cm. Based on the length of the profile, calculate how many suspensions are required for each profile.

Dowels are used to fix the guide profile to the wall and hangers to the ceiling. The profile on the dowels is attached at the corners and then - after 20-30 cm. For each suspension, at least two dowels are required. Do not try to calculate the exact number of dowel-nails. Take with a margin - the dowel nails will always come in handy for subsequent repairs, so it's not scary if two or three dozen remain superfluous.

To fix the panels to the frame and connect the guide and ceiling profiles, you will need galvanized self-tapping screws - press washer 4.2x16mm. The price of self-tapping screws is small - buy 150-200 pieces.

Ceiling plinth for plastic panels is used in two types - PVC plinth or regular polyurethane. The PVC skirting board is installed before the panels are installed. If the walls in the room are uneven, it is better to close the joint between the wall and the suspended ceiling with a polyurethane skirting board.

The PVC skirting board bridges the gap between the wall and the ceiling, and at the same time serves for the installation of plastic panels.

The ceiling plinth is installed around the perimeter of the room. The number of skirting boards can be easily calculated by dividing the perimeter of the room by the length of the skirting board and rounding the resulting value.

Purchase the required number of fixtures and the electrical cable to connect them.

When installing panels on a wooden lathing, you will need a bar, slats and brackets for fixing the panels.

How to install plastic ceiling panels correctly

Tools

level
pencil or marker
roulette
perforator
metal scissors
screwdriver
hacksaw or jigsaw
drill with crown
construction or office knife

Operating procedure

Use a water level (water level) to mark a horizontal line around the perimeter of the room. You can use the usual building level, but the water level gives less errors. Make sure that there are no air bubbles in the connecting hose. The easiest way to make marks is with a laser level, but a laser level is an expensive tool and not every home craftsman has it in stock.

Fix the guide profile according to the marks. The profile is attached to the dowels at a distance of 30-50 cm. Cut the profile to length. The profile can be cut with a grinder, but it is cut quite well with metal scissors. A grinder may be faster, but easier with scissors.

Make holes in the wall with a hammer drill and drill bit for concrete. Fix the profile with dowels.

Fasten the hangers for the ceiling profile. Suspensions are necessary to securely fasten the frame to the ceiling and to adjust the level at which the profile will be mounted.

Fix the PVC skirting board to the guide profile.

Install the ceiling profile to which you will be attaching the panels. The PP profile is attached to the hangers and to the PN profile with self-tapping screws with a press washer. The ceiling profile is fixed perpendicular to the direction of the plastic panels.

When using a PVC skirting board, fix the skirting board with self-tapping screws to the guide profile along the perimeter of the room. At the corners, the skirting board is trimmed at an angle of 45 °.

Lead out the electrical cable for mounting the fixtures.

Cut the panels to length. The panel is cut with a metal hacksaw or electric jigsaw.

Insert the edge of the panel into the groove in the plinth. Fix the panel shelf with self-tapping screws to the ceiling profile. The next panel is inserted into the groove of the previous one and fixed with self-tapping screws in the same way as the first. In the photo - installation of panels without PVC skirting board, along the edge of the panel there is a hole for the lamp.

Holes for the luminaires are cut out before mounting the panel using a drill with a crown or knife.

When installing the last panel, cut it to the width.

Install and connect the lights. Luminaires are connected in parallel.

Use liquid nails to glue the polyurethane skirting board if not using PVC skirting board.

When installing panels on a wooden crate, the principle of the operating procedure is the same. The panel is attached to a bar or rail using brackets.

Answers to frequently asked questions

How to mark the flow level - right or beautiful?

When installing plastic ceiling panels, it is important to install the false ceiling evenly across the entire plane. It so happens that the tiles with which the walls are faced are not correctly laid. It turns out that if the ceiling is mounted strictly according to the level, errors in the laying of tiles will become noticeable. It is permissible to fix the ceiling parallel to the last seam of the tile. It will not skew much, but it will not be visually noticeable that the tile is not laid quite evenly.

How do I pin the last panel?

The last panel is not fastened with self-tapping screws, it is inserted into the groove of the previous panel and into the groove of the PVC baseboard or guide profile. Due to its low weight, the panel is firmly held in its position.

How to install a polyurethane ceiling plinth?

Polyurethane or foam ceiling plinth is glued with liquid nails. The corners are trimmed according to the miter box. If a gap forms between the wall and the skirting board, it is sealed with acrylic sealant.

Video instruction for the installation of a plastic ceiling.

Modern technologies have made great strides forward. Today, the construction market can offer PVC as an alternative to the usual materials for finishing the ceiling. Plastic panels are cheap, aesthetically pleasing, and easy to install with your own hands.

The pros of plastic

PVC ceilings have a number of advantages:

Cheapness. The price of PVC is lower than that of other analogues. Low weight, which saves on profiles.

Easy to install. Decorating the ceiling with plastic is simple, which allows you to make such ceilings with your own hands, without resorting to the services of specialists.

Hygiene. Plastic is not afraid of water, temperature fluctuations, fungus and mold, there are no pores in it where dirt and microbes could accumulate. PVC panels are easy to clean, they are not afraid of non-abrasive detergents. For these reasons, ceilings made of plastic panels are relevant in the kitchen, balcony, bathroom.

Safety. PVC panels are made from the same material as syringes and food containers.

Masking irregularities. The space between the slabs and the ceiling will allow you to hide both surface defects and communications or additional insulation.

Durability. With proper care, PVC panels will last up to 15 years, and if necessary, they can be removed and reinstalled.

Disadvantages of plastic

However, there are also disadvantages:

Appearance. Ceiling panels are usually made in monochrome, in white or similar colors, and when installing cheap options, even with the correct installation, the joints will be visible.

The fragility of the material. Ceiling plastic panels, unlike wall panels, are more fragile, and not the best quality ones can be easily damaged by careless finger pressing.

Limited design options. The design of the PVC ceiling is simple, it is difficult to do something unusual. Reducing the height of the room.

After weighing the pros and cons, you can decide if you want to install plastic ceilings.

Varieties of plastic panels

The market for plastic panels is wide and represented by a wide variety of models. They can be classified according to a variety of parameters.

By the type of connection, plastic panels are:

suture. They look like a wooden lining;
seamless. Their distinctive feature is that the joints after installation are almost invisible.

According to the type of coating, plastic panels are divided into:

Matte - untreated and therefore the cheapest.

Glossy - coated with a special varnish, have good reflective characteristics. As you can see in the numerous photos of ceilings made of plastic panels, visually, they help to increase the space.

Colored. Thermal film is used to make cheap models. The more expensive ones use different technologies (for example, direct printing), and the drawing in them has a higher resolution.

The choice of PVC panels is very large. Therefore, it is vital to know a few rules that will help you choose high-quality material:

The shape of a high-quality panel is correct, the surface is even, the pattern (if any) is clear.
The ribs of rigidity in good panels are not visible from the outside.
The panels must be connected easily and without gaps.
High-quality plastic does not have a pungent smell.
Try to lightly press the panel or bend it - high-quality ones will retain their appearance.
Check the product certificates with the seller.

Remember that only high quality panels will serve you reliably and for a long time.

How to make a ceiling from plastic panels

Installation of PVC panels is possible even for non-professionals. But you need to be attentive to each stage of the work so that the result will satisfy you.

Calculation rules:

measure all 4 walls: opposite walls may not be the same length;
the number of panels is determined as follows: divide the total ceiling area by the area of one panel and multiply by 1.2;
the step with which you need to mount the ceiling profile and suspensions is 50-60 cm;
the length of the starting profile is equal to the perimeter plus 10-15 cm;
to calculate how much plastic profile you need, divide the length of the perimeter by 3;
dowels must be taken with the calculation of 1 per half meter of the profile, self-tapping screws - 1 per half meter of the panel length.

All results obtained should be rounded up.

You may also need docking profiles.

You will also need to do some preparatory work:

completely remove the old ceiling trim, if necessary, then the wiring;
small defects like cracks need to be putty. You do not need to level the ceiling if you want to use the suspended installation method, otherwise it must be trimmed;
treat the ceiling twice with an antifungal compound.

Then you can start making the frame:

Mark the ceiling by measuring the level around the perimeter and drawing lines on the walls. If you are making a ceiling in a bathroom with flat tiles, you can measure along the seams of the tiles.

Make a note of the location of the luminaires immediately; they may require additional space. At temperatures above + 90C, the plastic does not burn, but it can deform, so it is better to purchase LED or halogen lamps.

Cut the starter profile to the length of the walls and make holes every 50 cm.

Attach it to the wall and, using the finished marks, drill holes in it at the attachment points. Before starting work, be sure to check if there is any wiring in the places of drilling. Otherwise, you run the risk of damaging the power grid or the hammer drill, or even getting an electric shock.

Attach the profile to the wall with dowels. Cut off the required amount of the plastic profile. Note that the panels must be fastened at right angles to its direction.

Insert the plastic profile into the guide. Too large a distance between the supporting profiles will cause the panels to sag, so it is optimal to measure at 40 cm.

If the profile is longer than one and a half meters, it must be fixed with metal hangers and twisted with self-tapping screws.

Then get ready to install the luminaires:

wire to the places where you plan to install them. In this case, it is better to leave the wire with a margin of length and insulate the wiring well;
additionally reinforce the places where the lamps will be installed with guides

Now you can mount the panels:

Attach the rail to the guide rail. You can use not a rail, but a ceiling plinth, gluing it to liquid nails. Cut the panels to fit the wall.

Insert the panel into the guide rail with one end, bend and insert the other end slightly, press lightly against the wall and screw. Mount the rest of the panels in the same way, tightly joining the previous one and making sure that they run the same along the entire length. Do not overdo it with pressing force, otherwise the panel will deform.

Once you have reached the place where you want to install the lighting fixture, mark the mounting points on the panels and drill the holes. Then mount the luminaire and panel.

The last panel is trimmed to fit the actual dimensions of the remainder of the ceiling and inserted in the same way as the others. Seal gaps and joints with acrylic sealant if necessary.

Connect the power supply to the lighting fixtures.

Ready! As you can see, installation of ceilings made of PVC panels is up to everyone.

Photo of a ceiling made of plastic panels

Plastic has many supporters and no less opponents. But if you need an inexpensive, quickly installed and attractive finish, then one of the most popular options is plastic panels. Every year their assortment is increasing. There are plain, striped, checkered, with flowers and plant elements, imitating brickwork, natural stones, etc. Of all this variety, the ceiling made of plastic panels is usually made monochromatic. And most often - white or very close to it - with a light shade, such as "baked milk", ecru, ivory, etc.

According to the type of surface, they can be glossy or matte. There are collections with a rough top surface - for those who prefer original solutions. Also available with shiny accents. But since the ceiling made of plastic panels is almost always made in technical rooms - in the kitchen, bathroom, toilet, on the balcony - small, as a rule, sizes force you to choose a glossy surface: it visually raises the ceiling, and due to reflection, the room seems more spacious. Also, reflections on the ceiling increase the illumination - with a matte ceiling, it is necessary to take more lamps or increase their power.

Harmful or not

You can often hear that plastic has no place in the house. Perhaps, but we have plastic almost everywhere. They even pack goods in it, we have many products in the kitchen and in the bathroom, too, made of plastic. PVC panels are made from the same group of plastics as syringes and food containers. What is nice is that this material has no pores in which bacteria and other microorganisms can settle. If there is a nutrient medium on the surface and conditions are favorable, they will multiply, but they can be removed with one movement of a cloth soaked in soapy water or a disinfectant solution. The plastic panels are really hygienic. Proof can be considered the fact that the sanitary station allows them to decorate medical institutions.

There are plastic panels mirrored or with mirrored parts - stripes

The second point that stops many: the flammability of plastics. They really burn. They begin to maintain the flame at a temperature of + 360 ° C. For comparison: and fiberboard starts to burn at + 250 ° C. If we compare these materials by the amount of smoke emitted, then plastics emit it by 40-50% less.

Another reason: the ceiling made of plastic panels does not breathe. If you live in a private house and you have a ventilated attic upstairs, air exchange is important. If you live in a high-rise building, you still need to equip a ventilation system, which is a must for both the kitchen and the bathroom with a toilet. And to prevent condensation from accumulating behind the ceiling, build in a pair of ventilation grilles in the ceiling in opposite corners. Although, the ceiling is still leaky and with sufficient air exchange, no problems arise.

Types of plastic ceiling panels

All PVC panels are divided into two categories: wall and ceiling. They differ in rigidity and weight: the mechanical strength is unimportant on the ceiling, therefore the material is made lightweight, with thin walls. You need to handle them carefully: you can even crush them with two fingers. Is it possible to mount wall panels on the ceiling. It is possible, but they are more expensive, and their higher strength is not in demand. In addition, they are heavier, therefore the load on the frame (if any) will be slightly increased, and this must be taken into account when installing it.

Now about the sizes of panels and the types of their surfaces. There is a material whose appearance resembles a lining: the same stripes, only made of plastic. The ceiling of such panels is also called rack-and-pinion because the surface is very similar in appearance.

An almost flat surface, without gaps, with hardly distinguishable joints, is obtained from seamless plastic panels. The joints of such panels are almost invisible: the front surface is flat and smooth, and on the sides there is a spike and a groove, like on a regular lining, with which the sheathing is assembled.

There is also sheet plastic. It is more difficult to work with it and it is not used much: it is necessary if columns or other nonlinear surfaces are being trimmed, and it is more convenient to assemble the ceiling from slats.

The pluses of ceilings made of plastic panels include ease of maintenance: almost any contamination is washed off with warm soapy water. The appearance remains unchanged for about 5-10 years - it depends on the quality of the plastic.

How to make a ceiling from plastic panels

When buying PVC slats, you will also need finishing profiles - moldings - with which the ends and joints are made out. Their choice depends on the configuration of your room and on how exactly you are going to make the ceiling. There are two options: make a false ceiling or attach the plastic directly to the main one.

Suspended ceiling made of plastic panels

On the one hand, the suspended ceiling allows you to covertly lay communications without breaking the walls. On the other hand, it "eats" a certain height. At least 3 cm will go to it. But this is if the lamps are installed ordinary, and not built-in. To install a built-in lamp, the false ceiling must be lowered from the main one by 8-12 cm. You will not find smaller lamps, except for furniture or LED ones. If you put enough of them and make the mirror illumination separately, then the illumination should be enough.

Assembling the frame

When installing a false ceiling, a frame is assembled from guides. Profiles are most often used for working with drywall. If you are doing the ceiling in the bathroom or in the kitchen, take galvanized profiles and fasteners. In drier rooms, this is not critical. The frame is also assembled from wooden bars of 30 * 30 mm or larger section.

Nailed planks or profiles first along the perimeter, putting them all in a level. Then, on standard suspensions (there are two types) or wooden blocks, intermediate guides are fixed in increments of 50-60 cm. They are also aligned so that they are in the same plane with those installed earlier (it is easier to do if you pull the threads between the already installed ones and align them along them).

If you decide to make the minimum indentation, just to lay the corrugated hose - 3 mi, then the strips are nailed directly to the ceiling. If necessary, the level is leveled using pads - pieces of plywood, wood wedges, etc. In this case, the wireframe looks something like this.

Installation of starting strips

After the frame is assembled, you can start installing the plastic panels. It begins with the installation of a start profile. In the case of the ceiling, a ceiling molding is also used.

It is fastened close to the profile or bar fixed around the perimeter of the room. The edges are sawn at an angle of exactly 45 °. The length must be measured very accurately: the slightest discrepancy leads to the appearance of gaps. Against the background of a white ceiling and white profiles (or colored, it doesn't matter), the cracks turn black very clearly. If they are small, it will be possible to cover with putty, but it is better to cut it off clearly: exactly along the length of the wall or with a light - 1 mm - space.

The cut-off strip can be glued or screwed on with self-tapping screws. It is better to glue the ceiling molding (on liquid nails). So the joint turns out to be perfect: by gluing you press the bar tightly, screwing it onto the "bugs" you cannot achieve such an effect, since it twists it forward a little.

On the side that goes to the wall, a thin strip of glue is applied in a zigzag pattern. The surface of the wall is degreased (you can take 646 solvent). After drying, the piece is set in place, pressed tightly along its entire length and comes off. There should be some glue on the wall. Leave it to dry for a few minutes (4-8, depending on the viscosity, the bar should not float, and the glue should stick well) and then put it in place. To be sure that the bar is level, take a rule, a ruler, a flat bar and check the level of the glued starter profile. If necessary, until the glue has finally set, the bar is adjusted.

Having glued the starting profiles on three sides (with the letter P), they are left to dry, otherwise, when installing the strips, you can move. After 8-12 hours, the glue will harden and installation can be continued.

If during gluing "liquid nails" are squeezed out somewhere, do not clean it. Wait until completely dry, then pry off with a sharp knife. The glue will simply break off and there will be no traces. If you try to remove it with a liquid, it will only smear and stain everything around.

Installation of plastic panels on the ceiling

After the glue has dried, you can start installing the plastic panels themselves. Measure the size from one joint of the already mounted skirting boards to the other, add 1.5-1.8 cm to this value. Cut the panels to this length. You do not need to do them over the entire width or length of the room - they will not become in profile. If the geometry of the room is ideal, you can cut a lot at once. If there are deviations in size - do several pieces, adjusting the length along the way. You can cut plastic with a jigsaw or a grinder.

The first panel fits into the previously installed molding from three sides. It is placed with a thorn forward - in the bar. Sometimes, if the trim profile is made of soft plastic, the top (mounting shelf) will flex, making installation difficult. To reduce the deflection, this edge can be grabbed with self-tapping screws. This will make it easier to insert the strip, otherwise you have to correct it with a spatula, setting the panel in place. It should fit into the baseboard or starter profile exactly along its entire length. The inserted strip is fixed to each guide with a self-tapping screw. For fastening to a wooden frame, you can use a stapler with staples (if you are installing in a bathroom or kitchen, then take the staples from stainless steel or galvanized).

The setting of subsequent lanes is the same. They are installed first with one edge - into the molding (it goes into the skirting board by 6-7 mm), then insert the other edge. After that, the bar is leveled, lifting the middle with the hand and eliminating the deflection, tapping on the edge with the palm, driving the lock into the groove. It doesn't take much effort, just to get a tight fit. Below you will see that there is no gap at the junction, which means that the strip has become normal.

If there is an assistant, he supports the installed panel so that it does not fall out while fixing it to the screws (staples). If you work alone, you can remove the sag by sticking small pieces of double-sided tape on the profile. They will hold the bar until you secure it. So you collect all the panels.

During the installation process, do not forget to cut holes for the installation of fixtures. You can do this with a ballerina or a ring nozzle, you can try it with a jigsaw, but if you are good at the tool and you can make a round hole. As it turned out, you can make a hole with a conventional drill with a thin drill ... how? Watch the video. There are a couple more useful tips.

Having installed a strip or strips in which there is a hole for the lamp, you immediately mount it, connect it and check it. If you don't do this right away, then problems may arise: how can you connect the wires if the entire ceiling is already assembled? Just disassemble part of it. And if you put the last strip on glue? We'll have to break it. Therefore, we install and check the performance immediately.

Installing the last panel

Most of the difficulties arise when installing the last strip. It usually has to be trimmed. Measure the actual distance on one side of the ceiling and on the other. The difference can be several centimeters. There is nothing unusual or complicated in this. But then there are two options:

Simply insert the cut strip into the pre-glued starter profile or plastic skirting board. With sufficient panel width, this is possible. But then from the measured distance you need to subtract about 5-7 mm and so cut off the strip. Otherwise, you will not insert it. And so it has to be carefully corrected with something thin (steel spatula) so that it fits into place. After several attempts, it still turns out ... But besides the difficulties with the installation, there is one more drawback: after a while, since the strip is slightly shorter, it departs (sinks more into the molding) and a small gap appears in the ceiling.
The second option is to glue the strip. Then, cutting off the last panel, set aside the distance previously measured on the ceiling as it is. And not from the beginning of the panel itself, but from the stop bar. Then it is glued in its pure form on "liquid nails". Only the glue is applied not to the strip, but to all the guides. And the one that is along the wall, and on perpendicular laying (to which they were attached with self-tapping screws). Further, the technology is the same: they applied, pressed down, set aside for a few minutes, and then finally installed. The disadvantage of this method is that the strip is not removable. It will need to be broken if necessary. Therefore, leave one more in stock - just in case.

The installation of the plastic ceiling made of PVC panels is almost finished. It remains to install the last plastic skirting board. First, the mounting strip is cut on it: leave only the baseboard. After that, you also cut it at the corners at 45 °, try it on, just cut it off. After trying again "dry" and making sure that the size is correct, the plinth is smeared with glue, only both shelves: the one that will be glued to the ceiling, and the one that will be glued to the wall.

Sealing cracks with acrylic

Actually, the installation is over. But sometimes one more operation is necessary: covering all the gaps with white acrylic. This operation is not needed if you bought high-quality panels that have perfect geometry - French and Belgian. After assembling them, there is no need for correction: there is no sagging, which is formed due to the fact that the panels are uneven. Otherwise, take an acrylic sealant, insert the tube into the assembly gun, and fill in all the cracks and gaps. Usually these are joints and corners, as well as the junction of the plastic skirting board with the ceiling. Often there are so many slots that you have to go through the entire perimeter.

Fill the gaps with small sections of 30-40 cm, removing all unnecessary and leveling the seam. Acrylic smoothes well until it grabs, and this is a matter of seconds. Because - they smeared a piece, corrected it. If everything is fine, smear on. You can remove excess acrylic with a soft cloth, but sometimes it is more convenient to use your finger - for some reason it turns out smoother. After smearing a piece, take an object with a sharp and even edge (a small spatula) and a damp sponge. Cut off the excess putty evenly with a sharp corner of a spatula, then rub everything with a damp sponge, until it is clean, otherwise you will not wipe it off later. So go through the entire perimeter and leave to dry for 8-12 hours.

After the acrylic dries, it can be pulled into the seam. We have to take the tube again and fill the gaps that appear, rub, remove the excess and wash off the smeared. This, the second time, is usually the finishing one. After drying this layer, stains remain on the plastic ceiling. Wipe them with a damp, clean sponge and then gently rub them with a soft cloth until they shine. Now the ceiling made of plastic panels is ready, and after installing the fixtures, the repair can be considered complete.

How to mount to the ceiling

If the ceiling is already flat and does not need level correction, the plastic panels can be attached directly to it. The order of work is the same: first, the starting profile, then the strips cut to size are inserted into it, securing at least 50 cm.

You choose fasteners depending on the material from which the floor is made. You can hit a tree with nails or staples from a stapler. It is more difficult with concrete: self-tapping screws will not work, and you will be tortured to drill a hole for a dowel for each fastening. Then it is better to assemble the frame with a minimum indent from the ceiling and then collect everything as described above.

Another option is to glue on liquid nails. The technology is well-known, but its disadvantage is that such a ceiling made of plastic panels turns out to be non-separable and in which case it will have to be completely dismantled.

Ceiling luminaires made of plastic panels

It's not about design or quantity - here everyone is determined by himself, but about the type of lamps and power supply. There are two options: install ordinary lamps for 220 V or with a step-down transformer for 12 V. In the first option, they put ordinary incandescent lamps or housekeepers, in the second - halogen or LED. In any case, a separate machine with an RCD should be allocated for lighting a bathroom or kitchen, which will turn off the electricity supply in the event of a short circuit.

Features of installation and selection of lamps for 220 V

If you install lamps for 220 V, and put in them even low-power (40-60 W) incandescent lamps, you will have to somehow take care of the thermal insulation of the case. Due to the fact that the lamp heats up, its body also gets very hot. From the heated case, the plastic darkens and warps over time. Therefore, glue a layer of some kind of flexible heat-insulating material on the body.

The second point concerns electrical safety when working in lighting at 220 V. It is necessary to install lamps with a high degree of protection in the bathroom: at least IP44. This means that the lamp housing is protected from water jets. Such lamps cost a lot: the technology is complex. The second point: for the most part they are rather bulky, since the case is usually ceramic. You won't be able to simply hang it on plastic: you will need mortgages. They are installed when assembling the frame: these are additional jumpers in those places where the lamps will be attached.

Halogen and LED

Since lamps of this type require only 12 V, the electrical safety requirements are lower here. In principle, any design is suitable. Power from the panel after the machine is supplied to the transformer, and from it to the lamps. Up to 4 lamps can be powered from one transformer, but there is a limitation in the instructions for them: the maximum wire length to the lamp should not exceed 2 meters. Lamps work normally even at a distance of 2.5-2.7 meters. At a higher voltage, the voltage drop is already significant and the glow is weaker.

If you decide to put a transformer outside the bathroom to increase safety, this is a serious limitation, especially if the bathroom is rather big. Then it will have to be transferred to the bathroom and hidden behind a false ceiling made of plastic panels (the thickness of the device is about 3-4 cm).

Sometimes they put their own transformer on each lamp. This is normal, just more expensive, but justified with a large distance between the fixtures.

Using a seamless plastic panel for finishing is a quick, attractive, practical and inexpensive option. A wide range of textures and color palettes of PVC plastic panels will help to harmoniously combine the ceiling finish with the coating on the walls.

The image clearly shows the absence of a seam. , the installation of which will not cause difficulties, looks aesthetically attractive.

Benefits of PVC panels

Pros of using plastic ceiling panels:

This ceiling is not afraid of humidity, temperature changes. Therefore, PVC panels are used in both interior and exterior decoration.
Plastic is a material that does not absorb any unpleasant odors.
If grease gets on the plastic for the ceiling during cooking, it can be easily washed off with a sponge and soapy water.

The plastic from which the panels are made looks attractive, practical and has many other positive characteristics.

In the building materials markets, ceiling panels are offered with a print of noble wood species. This will help to finish with plastic panels of ceilings and walls in the corridor, living room, hall with fireplace or bedroom. In the decoration of the bathroom, bathroom and kitchen, ceiling panels with a print in the form of a cut stone look good.

What is PVC panel?

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) is the material for the production of a plastic ceiling profile. It is environmentally friendly, therefore, no harmful substances are released from it. Before making the plastic panel, the powder is mixed in an industrial mixer, additives and plasticizers are added to it.

After kneading, a dough-like mass is formed, which is loaded into the extruder. Then, by forcing through a specialized molding-type window, using a high temperature, a ceiling profile made of plastic is pulled out. Then, on the conveyor, using a guillotine, the panel is cut to size. After that, the ceiling plastic profile is sent to the workshop, where a print is applied to the front side. Then, in finished form, the material is packed and sent to the warehouse.

Types of plastic panels

The ceiling profile made of plastic is subdivided into seam and seamless.

Plastic that forms a seam when laying

It looks original, but not suitable for all premises. During installation, the ceiling profile, the material for the manufacture of which is plastic, is laid in such a way that a clear seam at the joints remains between the individual panels. In appearance, the ceiling resembles that of a lining. This means that it is not suitable for all premises. The seams look ugly on the ceiling in the bedroom, hall, made in modern, classical or baroque style.

Seamless plastic

With proper installation, such a plastic ceiling profile gives a smooth, even and glossy surface. Bysuitable for the kitchen, and for the bedroom, and for the living room.When the ceiling is installed, no joint seams are visible. In order for the panels to be firmly connected to one another, they are equipped with a specialized groove on one side, and a spike on the other. The inner part of the ceiling profile made of plastic is equipped with partitions, which increase the breaking strength and, at the same time, are lightweight. The absence of seams is the main advantage of this type of ceilings, and in appearance they resemble stretch ceilings.

The ease of installation of a false ceiling made of plastic, strength and other characteristics put it forward to a leading position in the decoration of premises such as a balcony, loggia, bathroom, toilet and kitchen.

Installation of panels

Lighting fixtures of any type are built into the ceiling made of a PVC plastic profile. There are no power limitations in this case, unlike stretch ceilings made of PVC film, where they are 50 watts. Plastic panels are not subject to burning, and therefore the ceiling profile made of this material can be used in private boiler rooms.

Previously, plastic panels for the ceiling with fasteners always had seams at the joints, but then seamless structures appeared. Fastening them is the same, with the difference that the latter are closer to each other. The main thing is to make the right frame for the plastic panels on the ceiling.

Wooden slats as a frame

The minimum size of the slats intended for the frame for plastic panels is 20 by 20 millimeters. They must be perfectly straight and even, knots and cracks are unacceptable. This is due to the fact that deformed slats can break, and their removal from the assembled frame is not an easy procedure. The guides are installed perpendicularly, with a step of less than 50 cm.

Advice! The tree is treated with an antiseptic so that the frame lasts as long as possible. This is especially true for rooms with high humidity.

Initially, the slats are located along the perimeter of the ceiling or wall - they will become the basis of the frame. To control the quality of the frame, a level and a plumb line are required. When attaching the frame, wherever it does not fit snugly, you need to put down additional bars. It should be fastened with self-tapping screws in increments of 40 cm.

After creating a perimeter of wood for the frame, the guides are attached to it at a distance of 35-45 centimeters from each other. To prevent the structure from sagging, every half a meter additional slats are fixed either to the ceiling or to the wall.

Plastic frame for ceiling profiles

This material is more practical, but more expensive. The plastic frame is more sensitive to uneven wall surfaces. Its advantages are not susceptibility to rotting and mold formation, high speed and practicality of installation.

The plastic guides are equipped with specialized clip fasteners. Installation can be carried out immediately, since the plastic ceiling profile does not require any additional processing. Plastic guides are placed strictly perpendicularly. In most cases, such material for the frame is used in saunas and steam rooms or other small rooms, as well as in cases where the humidity is high and the use of wood is impossible.

Metal profile - material for the frame

This material is used in rare cases, since its cost is quite high. The lathing for the frame is made in the same way as that made under plasterboard ceilings.

Fastening is carried out to each of the metal profiles.

Initially, a U-shaped starting ceiling profile is attached to the perimeter of the wall or ceiling. Next, guides are installed on it, which are fastened with screws at a distance of 80-90 cm. After that, the fittings are fastened, and plastic ceiling panels on it.

Panel mounting

In the right places, provide an outlet for lighting devices in advance. The seam may or may not be present at the joint.

Cut the first panel to size and fasten it to the wall with the comb. The panel is attached with self-tapping screws to each of the frame elements through which it passes.

Press the first panel as close to the wall as possible and fix it into the ledge at the bottom of the groove to avoid a seam. Similarly, cut the subsequent panels to the desired size, but perform the fastening exclusively with the lower side of the groove, as close as possible and in compliance with the rules, then the absence of seams at the joints is guaranteed. Cut the final ceiling panel to length and width, and attach the free edge as close to the wall as possible.

The installation is completed with the installation of decor. In this case, a plinth is used. This gives the ceiling an attractive and neat look.

Important! If a plastic ceiling profile is used instead of a plinth, then the installation is carried out along three walls, the panels are inserted into it. In such a situation, the last panel is glued.

The final stage is the execution of the edging of the ceiling with a plinth, which is attached to polymer glue or liquid nails.

Seamless glossy PVC profile ceilings are an excellent option for interior design. Visually, the result looks similar to expensive stretch ceilings, only it costs several times less. Ceilings made of plastic panels are a cheap and simple option for interior decoration with easy installation.

Tips in the video for installing a plastic seamless ceiling:

Moisture-tight and stylish. Mold and mildew will never start on it and inside it.

Ceiling have a lot of positive characteristics. They are practically not susceptible to moisture, which determines the area of their application in interior decoration. , made of polyvinyl chloride, environmentally friendly and does not emit harmful fumes when heated.

Such a suspended ceiling is very easy to maintain. Grease and soot stains can be easily washed off with a sponge and any household detergent. plastic does not absorb unpleasant odors.

It's important to know! Do not use organic or synthetic solvents to remove stains. PVC material may deteriorate.

The design of the suspended ceiling system made of plastic panels allows it to be installed very quickly in almost any room. Usually it is used for finishing balconies and loggias, bathrooms and showers, toilets and kitchens.

It will hide all the flaws and irregularities of the old ceiling and hide any communications passing through it. It is very easy to mount point lighting devices in PVC panels or install overhead chandeliers or shades.

How to choose panels for the ceiling

On the building materials market, you can find all kinds of plastic wall and. Wall slats and suspended ceiling panels do not differ from each other.

The only difference is in the technology of corner joints on the walls. There are no such knots on the ceiling. In everything else, the technology of installation work is almost identical.

There are seam and seamless panels. The first ones are made to imitate a wooden lining or a block of a house. The second option is made in such a way that the panels docked with each other make the seam practically invisible (hence their name).

Plastic ceiling panels can have the following dimensions:

Length - 2.7 m, 3 m, 6 m
Width - 20 cm, 25 cm, 30 cm, 33 cm.
Thickness - from 8 mm to 25 mm

A drawing is applied to the front surface of the plate by offset printing. It can be of different colors and imitate natural cut stone or wood of almost any species. The glossy (front) side of the panel is covered with a protective polyethylene film, which must be removed before installing it on the ceiling.

6 m ceiling slats are commonly used for large industrial spaces. The most common dimensions for interior decoration are slats 2.7 - 3 m long, 25 mm wide and 8 mm thick.

When choosing plastic in a store, be sure to ask the seller for a quality certificate for the product. On the building materials market, it is rare, but still there are fakes from low-quality raw materials.

It can also be identified by an unpleasant chemical odor. Such counterfeit products do not have the required strength characteristics. Now you know how to select ceiling panels.

What elements does the plastic ceiling consist of?

Before calculating the materials, you need to familiarize yourself with the set of parts that make up the ceiling. Ceiling suspension system design includes:

Frame anchored to the existing ceiling
Ceiling plinth with a recess for installing panels
Corners for joining skirting boards
PVC plastic panels
Fasteners for plastic (galvanized self-tapping screws with a 25 mm press washer)

The ceiling frame can be made of timber or galvanized metal profiles for plasterboard ceilings. The second option is more reliable for use in rooms with high humidity.

It's important to know! The use of a timber frame in damp rooms can cause deformation. This will distort the ceiling surface.

For a metal ceiling frame, a UD guide wall profile and a supporting or ceiling SD profile are used. For fixing the ceiling profile to the interfloor overlap, direct suspensions (U-shaped) are used.

The frame is fastened to the ceiling and walls with dowels and self-tapping screws 6 x 40 mm. If it is required to connect the profiles to each other, then the fastening is performed using a cross connector crab and galvanized self-tapping screws for metal with a 12 mm drill.

For the calculation of materials, there are rules that facilitate this operation. They are given below and will practically not cause difficulties even for novice home craftsmen.

The number of UD wall profile is equal to the perimeter of the ceiling
Ceiling profiles are positioned on the ceiling as follows:
The extreme ends of the CD profile should go inside the UD profile
The distance between the wall and the first (last) profile must be 300 mm
Distance between adjacent profiles no more than 600 mm
Suspensions for fixing the profile are mounted on the ceiling with a step of 1 m
To fix one suspension, 1 dowel and a self-tapping screw are enough
The UD wall profile is fastened with dowels with a pitch of 35-40 cm
The area of the plastic panels is equal to the area of the ceiling + 3% (stock for trimming)
The ceiling plinth is fixed with galvanized self-tapping screws with a press washer at intervals of 20-25 cm.
Fastening of ceiling panels to the UD and CD profile is carried out with a self-tapping screw with a 25 mm press washer

The height to which the ceiling is lowered depends on the type of lighting devices installed. If spotlights are used, this value is 12 cm.

The markings are made as follows: Determine the lowest point of the ceiling and measure the height of the future ceiling with a tape measure. From it, using a level, points are transferred to the walls along the perimeter with an interval of 1 m.

The dots on the walls are connected with a paint thread (the resulting line shows the lower edge of the UD wall profile). The axes of the bearing profiles are applied to the ceiling. Marks are placed on them with an interval of 1 m for attaching U-shaped suspensions.

Assembly and installation of a metal frame

Along the line marked on the walls, a wall profile is attached with dowels and self-tapping screws with a pitch of 35-40 cm. According to the marks on the axes of the ceiling profiles, P-suspensions are fixed with dowels 6 x 40 mm. The perforated legs of the hangers are bent downward at an angle of 90 degrees.

A ceiling profile is mounted to the suspension legs with 12 mm metal self-tapping screws. It is placed with a wide, closed shelf down. Twist 2 self-tapping screws on each leg. The edges of the CD profiles are inserted into the UD profile and also fastened with self-tapping screws

Note! To facilitate the installation of the ceiling profiles of the CD, it is recommended to pull the cord from the parallel wall profiles of the CD in the direction perpendicular to the installation of the CD profiles. This will give a reference point for the broken horizon.

Sheathing the frame with plastic

A ceiling plinth is attached to the wall corner from below with self-tapping screws with a press washer. Fasteners are carried out at intervals of 20-25 cm. The plinth has a special groove into which the ceiling panel is inserted.

To connect the corners to each other, you can use ready-made plastic corners. If they are not there, then the plinth in the corners is cut at 45 degrees. It is convenient to do this using a joinery miter box. When the skirting board is installed, begin the installation of plastic battens. They are cut to size with a hacksaw for metal. The seamless plastic has a groove and a spike for joining.

Before fixing the ceiling panels, all electrical wiring must be mounted to the ceiling.

The first rail is inserted into the grooves of the ceiling plinths and fixed with a self-tapping screw with a press washer. Fastening of ceiling plastic panels is carried out in the upper wall of the groove of the plate to the UD profile and the CD profiles.

The second plate is inserted into the groove of the first with a spike and lightly tapped with a palm until it is fully seated and the gap between the plates is eliminated. After that, the second plate is fixed to the frame in the same way as the first. In the panels, where the lamps should be, cut holes with a crown. Spotlights are inserted into them and mounted on the previous panel.

Lighting devices are immediately connected and their performance is checked. The last panel is cut to length and holes are drilled with a drill for attaching to the profiles against the wall. In them, the panel is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws, and after that the assembly of the PVC ceiling is completed.