Wooden frame for drywall - which timber to choose and how to fix it. Drywall on wooden slats Wooden frame for drywall do it yourself

There are several ways to create smooth walls and ceilings in the interior of the house. With one of them, drywall is attached to a wooden frame. It is made from pine or spruce bars, the cross-section of which must correspond to future loads. To create a partition with a height of 2.5 - 4.0 meters, a beam of 50 × 60 or 50 × 70 mm is suitable.

Plasterboard beams are made of spruce or pine trees and are carefully dried and processed.

Requirements for lumber used to create the sheathing

The beam must be carefully checked. It can be slightly yellow or light brown in color with no black or blue spots. Each part must have the correct geometric dimensions without chips, large cracks and deviations in straightness.

For construction and finishing work, it is recommended to use wood with a moisture content of about 15%. It is impossible to verify this on your own, therefore, when selecting material, you just need to make sure by touching your hand that it is not wet. Before installation, it is advisable to hold the bars in the room where they will be installed for several days.

To protect against biological decay, mold, wood bugs and rodents, wood is treated with antiseptic compounds. You can use ready-made mixtures for interior work or prepare a 4% sodium fluoride solution on your own by stirring it in hot water. The antiseptic is applied to the bars with a brush in several passes and the material is allowed to dry well.

Tools and materials for the installation of a wooden frame

A craftsman who begins to mount a wooden frame for drywall should have at hand:

• hacksaw;
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• a hammer;
• building level or plumb line;
• coated thread;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• self-tapping screws;
• dowels, anchors, brackets or anchor plates;
• steel corners or mounting plates.

In the process of creating a partition, in addition to the bars, you will need gypsum board sheets, mineral wool, a primer, putty and finishing materials.

Marking

Before you start making a wooden frame for drywall, you need to determine the plane in which it will be installed and mark the lines of its intersection with the floor, ceiling and walls. In this case, you need to remember about the thickness of the gypsum board and take it into account when applying the markings.

The starting point is chosen on the line of the ceiling joint with one of the walls. Having attached a plumb line to it, they find the corresponding mark near the floor. Both points are connected by a vertical line. Drywall sheets are made with enough precision to be used to determine right angles. To do this, we apply the gypsum board with an angle to the mark on the floor with the narrow side close to the wall. Continuing perpendicular to the opposite wall, we find the next mark. Using a plumb line or level, we rise to the ceiling. We connect all four points with straight lines using chalk overlaid thread or a pencil with a ruler.

Installation of a wooden frame

The basis of the wooden frame is made up of beams located along its perimeter. They are attached in accordance with the markings applied. The manufacture of the frame begins with a support bar, which is attached to the floor using self-tapping screws, dowels or anchors, depending on the base material. If there is a doorway in the partition, two beams are taken, diverging from the passage to the walls.

When installing the frame, it must be borne in mind that the drywall sheets are fastened so that the joints of the two sheets are in the middle on the bar.

In the same way, the beams are fixed to the ceiling and walls. Then, vertical posts are installed in the central part of the frame. They start with the bars that frame the doorway. The distance between them should be 3 - 5 cm larger than the outer size of the door frame.

The racks are installed strictly vertically with their ends close to the horizontal support and ceiling bars of the frame. Fastening is done with self-tapping screws using steel corners or mounting plates designed for assembling rafters. They are designed for heavy loads, so they provide reliable communication. At the height of the door frame plus 2 cm, the racks are connected with a horizontal lintel.

Between the opening and the walls, evenly with a step of 40 - 60 cm, put the required number of racks. With large partitions, it will have to be covered with several sheets of gypsum board. Plasterboard is fastened to wooden slats so that the junction of the two sheets falls exactly on the central axis of the bar. Therefore, the installation of racks is carried out taking into account the future cutting and installation of gypsum board.

For the same reason, if the ceiling height is greater than the length of the drywall sheet, horizontal bars are fixed at the junction of the first and second rows.

Sheathing of the frame with GKL sheets and finishing work

Installation of gypsum board on a wooden frame begins from the bottom corner of the partition or from the doorway. For this, self-tapping screws for wood 35 mm are used. They are installed in increments of up to 250 mm, retreating from the edges by 10 - 15 mm. In this case, the caps of the screws should be slightly recessed into the sheet material, which is important for a high-quality wall finish.

If necessary, cutting the drywall is cut with a construction knife, followed by a break at the cut. The sheets are joined together with factory edges to each other, and the cut edges turn to the walls and ceiling.

After installing the gypsum board on one side of the partition, its internal space for sound insulation is filled with briquettes of mineral wool, foam or expanded polystyrene. Electric and data cables are laid, protected from damage by corrugated tubes. Then the back of the wall is sheathed.

After sheathing the frame with plasterboard, it must be primed, and then well putty the joints and caps of the screws.

Plasterboard sheets installed in place are treated with a primer. After it dries, all joints and screw caps are closed with a double layer of putty so that an absolutely flat surface is obtained. After two days, it is primed again and wallpaper, ceramic tiles are glued or any other type of finishing is applied.

Plasterboard covering uneven walls and ceilings

If the dimensions of the room allow a part of the space to be occupied with plasterboard, you can use it to quickly and accurately close the uneven walls and ceiling. For this, a wooden frame is also made, which is attached to building structures.

When sheathing the wall, you need to repeat all the operations described for the installation of the lintel, setting the frame close to it. To do this, it is allowed to take bars and slats of a smaller section, since they can additionally be attached with brackets or anchor plates to the wall to be closed.

Some craftsmen assemble the frame on a flat floor, and only then put it in the right place and fix it. All cavities between the bars are filled with heat-insulating materials. Plasterboard is installed on the slats, trying to prevent the presence of joints above the door and window openings, since there will be no supporting vertical posts.

When installing the gypsum board on the ceiling, the frame bars are attached to the walls strictly horizontally and at the same level. After that, an internal lathing is made with its fixing to the extreme bars and to the ceiling slabs. Ceiling drywall has a slightly lower thickness and weight, which makes it easier to install.

Various materials are used to work with drywall. The most common method of constructing profile metal frames, however, quite often you can find wooden structures.

Wood is a natural environmentally friendly building material, so some people prefer it. It should be said that the tree is subject to climatic effects, biological corrosion and fire hazard, therefore it requires additional processing.

Installation of drywall on a wooden frame is used quite often.

Wood preparation

Physical properties

The frame for drywall is made of high-quality coniferous wood.

They make a frame for drywall from coniferous wood. A beam of various sections is used, the value of which depends on the height of the partition and the method of sheathing.

Basic physical characteristics:

• Humidity from 12 to 18%;
• For W121 partitions with a height of 2.8 - 3 meters, use a bar with a section of 60 × 50 mm for risers and 60 × 40 mm for lathing;
• For W122 partitions with a height of 2.8 - 4.2 meters, a beam with a section of 60 × 50 mm is used for risers and battens, while, depending on the height, different thicknesses of gypsum boards are used: for a height of 2.8 - 3 meters - 2 × 12.5 mm, 3.3 - 3.6 meters - 2 × 14 mm, 3.6 - 3.9 meters - 2 × 16 mm, 3.9 - 4.2 meters - 2 × 18 mm;
• The step between the risers for all cases should not exceed 60 cm;
• Fire retardant treatment must comply with the first group of fire safety;
• Connection on nails, thorns and self-tapping screws is allowed, while thorns are the most preferable, since they create a rigid and durable connection;
• The thickness of mineral wool sound insulation should be between 50 and 60 mm;
• The wall thickness can be from 85 to 132 mm;
• The insulation index ranges from 41 to 51 depending on the thickness of the wall.

Important!
Before installation, the wood must lie for several days in the room where it is supposed to be installed in order to acclimatize.

You should use high-quality sawn timber that meets the requirements for moisture and fire safety. It is necessary to make sure that there are certificates on the processing of the material with fire retardants and the passage of the relevant examinations by the authorized bodies.

Chemical treatment

Antiseptic treatment is a condition for the long service life of lumber.

In addition to fireproofing, the wooden frame for drywall must undergo an antiseptic treatment.

This measure is aimed at combating all kinds of biological risk factors, namely:

• Fungal and mold microorganisms... A tree can serve as a breeding ground for the mycelium of a number of molds and not only fungi. In this case, the wood becomes unusable and destroyed;
• Biological decay... Wood is an organic material that is subject to necrobiosis and decay, like all organisms. Antiseptic treatment is required for conservation.
• Carpenter insects... Many insects are known to feed on wood and render it unusable.
• Rodents... Also dangerous for wood. Antiseptic treatment scares these animals away.

Pest insects can spoil wood in a short time.

Various chemical compounds are used as antiseptics. One of the best is sodium fluoride.

It is a light gray powder soluble in hot water. The limiting solubility is 3.5 - 4%.

Sodium fluoride sinks well into wood and is very weakly washed out. At the same time, the compound does not decompose and does not corrode metal, has no odor and is not toxic to humans. Strong enough antiseptic.

An example of damage to wood by fungal mycelium.

Sodium fluorosilicon is also used, often with the addition of soda ash, which converts it into pure sodium fluoride.

It is unacceptable for residential premises to use oily antiseptics:

• creosote,
• coal,
• shale,
• anthracene oils.

These compounds are toxic and can harm the health of people living in the home.

Installation of a wooden frame for drywall

To trace the lines connecting the partition to the walls

Use the 3 or 4 meter rule to draw lines.

Before proceeding directly with the installation of the partition, it is necessary to trace, or, more simply, mark the lines along which the partition will adjoin the walls, floor and ceiling of the room. (See also How to build a drywall partition: features.)

To do this, you need to measure the distance at which the plane of the future partition should be located and retreat from it by the width of the GCR sheet.

It is better to do this along the ceiling-wall line. Having marked the desired point under the ceiling, it is easy to transfer it with a plumb line down the wall. To do this, we hammer in a nail at a point, hang a plumb line and mark the corresponding point at the bottom of the wall, near the floor.

Use a center weight with an axis indicator as a plumb line.

We connect these two points and get the first line. Next, you need to draw a line from the bottom point perpendicular to the wall.

This can be done by constructing the so-called "Egyptian triangle": a right-angled triangle with an aspect ratio of 3: 4: 5, where the 3rd and 4th correspond to the legs, and 5 - the hypotenuse.

In this case, we lay one leg along the wall from the bottom point, making it a multiple of the 3rd. Next, from the bottom point, we draw a circular arc in the direction of the perpendicular to the wall with a radius that is a multiple of 4.

Then, from the other end of the leg, built along the wall, we build an arc of a circle with a radius multiple of 5 so that it intersects with the previously constructed arc.

By connecting the intersection of these arcs with the original bottom point, we get a perpendicular to the wall. We draw a line along this perpendicular on the floor - the second line of our partition.

In the place where the floor line connects to the opposite wall, mark a point at the bottom of the wall. Using a level or plumb line, we transfer this point to the ceiling. We connect the bottom and top points and get the third line. (See also the article Drywall niches in the wall: how to make.)

Next, we connect the two upper points on the walls along the ceiling and get the fourth and last line. Thus, we should get a rectangle along the lines floor-wall-ceiling-wall, along which the partition will adjoin the room.

Advice!
To build a perpendicular, you can go for a trick: attach a sheet of drywall to the wall with the short side, and draw a perpendicular along the long one from the calculated point.

Frame mounting

Wooden frame for plasterboard partitions.

As you can see in the photo, the frame consists of a frame and vertical as well as horizontal beams. Installation of the frame should be started with the frame.

To do this, along the lines that we built along the walls and ceiling, the bars should be fixed. If the house is wooden, we fasten them with self-tapping screws or spikes to the ceiling beam, floor logs and walls.

If the building is stone, we fasten the bars with dowels and screws. You can also use straight hangers or brackets.

The Knauf bracket can be used to fix the timber to the wall.

We fasten solid bars along the walls and ceiling. Along the floor, the timber should diverge on both sides of the doorway. If the opening is located against the wall, then the lower beam will be solid and located on one side of the opening.

So, we fix all the bars, to drill holes in the walls and ceiling, we use an impact drill with a drill on concrete.

Doorway

The doorway is formed by double risers.

When the frame is ready, proceed to the installation of the doorway.

To do this, we install two risers on the sides of it. The opening width should be 4 - 5 centimeters wider than the door frame.

We install risers and reinforce them with additional bars, as in the photo.

At the height of the door frame plus 2 - 3 centimeters, we install a horizontal lintel, which we connect with two vertical bars to the ceiling strip.

Vertical beams give the structure additional rigidity and are needed for joining drywall sheets.

Racks

Racks should be installed strictly vertically on the level.

To determine the location of the lintel (vertical, which is above the opening), apply a sheet of drywall, which will be at the doorway, and place a lintel in place of its edge so that the edge of the sheet falls in the middle of the board.

Advice!
To connect the beams, it is better to use metal corners and metal plates intended for assembling rafter systems.
These mounts are reliable and designed for heavy loads.

We must check each detail by level: the racks must be strictly vertical, the jumpers must be strictly horizontal.

You should also try to arrange the racks so that the wall contains the maximum possible number of whole sheets of plasterboard. This will save time and material.

All manipulations for assembling a wooden frame are easy to do with your own hands, and alone. We advise beginners to work with an assistant, it is better if it is a technically competent or experienced person.

The wooden frame is sheathed in the same way as the metal one.

Sheathing the frame with GKL sheets is a topic for a separate article. We can only say that drywall is mounted on a wooden frame in the same way as on a metal one.

It should also be noted that the price of a profile is lower than that of high-quality sawn timber, and dealing with low-quality timber is more expensive for yourself, so think carefully.

Tool

To work, you need a standard set of tools for wood.

So, you will most likely need a set like this:

A hammer;

Hacksaw for wood;

Screwdriver;

Impact drill with a drill for concrete;

Construction knife;

Plumb line;

Level;

Pencil;

Roulette;

Square;

Fomka;

Screwdriver;

Coated thread;

Screws;

Dowel;

Brackets.

If you don't have a hammer drill or screwdriver, you can rent one from a home improvement store. Also, do not forget about mineral wool, which is necessary for sound insulation.

Thick mats can be used to avoid laying the cotton in two layers. It is better to choose mats on a mesh or other base that prevents material caking.

Conclusion

Assembling a wooden frame for gypsum board is a simple work and does not require special skills. This instruction gives a general idea, for greater clarity, we recommend watching the video on this page, which will help you understand many of the nuances and intricacies of the assembly of the structure.

Despite the fact that there is currently a method of mounting drywall on a metal profile frame, many people prefer to mount this finish on a wooden crate.

Preferable if you need to mount a single-level ceiling or just sheathe the wall. This method is cheaper, dried in a chamber does not deform, perfectly withstands such a load and can reliably serve for many years. In addition, such an installation is simple, and it is chosen by those who carry out plasterboard cladding on their own.

Installation of a rack frame for a false ceiling

• 1 Preparatory work.

  Before starting the installation work, the lowest point of the ceiling is visually determined. From it, the marking of its design position is carried out: 5 cm retreat, and with the help of a level they draw a horizontal line along the perimeter. If the job is done correctly, the start and end points should match. Along this horizontal, a rail is attached with self-tapping screws along the entire perimeter.

• 2 Installation of longitudinal rails.

  Further it is necessary prepare longitudinal slats for lathing... The profile is chosen from 30 * 40 to 50 * 70 cm. The finished length of each should be 1 cm less than the length of the ceiling. They are screwed with self-tapping screws at an equal distance from each other. The possible curvature of the ceiling surface is eliminated either by cutting the slats, or small pieces of thick cardboard are placed in the depressions. The longitudinal slats are attached to the ceiling surface with self-tapping screws.

• 3 Installation of the lathing.

  For wooden lathing choose slats dried in a special drying chamber... This completely eliminates the possibility of their deformation. It must be remembered that the raw material, when dried, can lead to the loss of screws from the body of the wood. If the material is of good quality, then slats are fixed in increments of 50 to 70 cm... For regions with a humid climate or if the room has insufficient ventilation, the step is better to cut to 40cm... You should not save on self-tapping screws. In any case, reliable fastening of the frame rails to the ceiling will provide you with a long and trouble-free operation of the structure in the future.

• 4 Installation of longitudinal slats for connecting plasterboard sheets.

  Suitable size for work is 25 * 80 mm. The sheet fits comfortably on the wide side. In addition, it guarantees a reliable installation. It is necessary to mark the future arrangement of the slats in such a way that the joint of the drywall sheets falls in their middle. After that, the wiring cables are laid and proceed with the installation of drywall.

Here you can only use high-quality sawn timber for drywall installation. It has been specially dried in chambers, so its surface is dense with the required moisture level of 12-14%. The slats do not deform and can easily withstand loads as a supporting frame. Installation on wooden slats is simple, reliable and fast.

Working with us, you get the opportunity to purchase an excellent product at the lowest price and carry out repairs in your home at no extra cost.

Plasterboard lining

Plasterboard wall cladding is a practical and common way inside apartments and houses. GKL allows you to align walls and ceilings. A common method is when the sheets are mounted on a frame made of wooden slats or metal profiles. If you need to save money or time, the question arises: can drywall be fixed directly to the wall? Yes, there are cases when the crate can be omitted. Alignment of walls with plasterboard without a frame is performed on practically even bases of various types. The photo below shows a room with walls and ceilings covered with plasterboard.

Fastening drywall to a wall without a profile is the best option for flat surfaces. The degree of deviation from the plane plays an important role. A frameless wall cladding method is applicable if the differences do not exceed 5 cm.When they are larger, they often install a crate.

Plasterboards are fixed on uneven surfaces using beacons. Due to this, the installation of sheets occurs immediately according to the level. Without lighthouses, it can be mounted, with a lot of experience, or in small areas.

You can control the degree of curvature of the base using a building level and a long rule.

Existing methods of attaching drywall to a wall without a profile allow it to be mounted on different types of surfaces. It is possible to fix sheets:

• against a brick wall;
• on partitions made of porous concrete, monolith, panels, limestone, shell rock, cinder block and plastered;
• on a wooden surface.

Installation of gypsum board on foam concrete

Gluing sheets on a foam concrete base is shown in the photo above.

Plasterboard wall decoration without a frame and profile is beneficial for the following reasons:

• this method of finishing reduces the cost of lathing material;
• money is also saved on its installation (if it was planned to attract a specialist);
• the volume of the room practically does not decrease;
• the terms of facing works are reduced, and the process itself is simplified.

The following requirements are imposed on the surfaces that are planned to be sewn up with gypsum plasterboard sheets:

• the base must be strong, smooth, free of significant defects and fungus;
• it is required that the wall surface is protected from moisture.

If the gluing method is used, then it is recommended to remove old paint, contaminants (dust, oil stains).

A big plus of decorating walls with plasterboard without a frame with your own hands is that the process is faster and easier than if you need to first create a crate.

Preparatory activities

Before fixing this material to the wall without profiles, you should decide what thickness to choose drywall, prepare the required tools. Everything you need for different mounting methods is presented in the table below.

Some tools and materials are used only for certain methods of installing gypsum plasterboard.

The photo above shows a bag of gypsum glue used for the drywall to glue it on.

In work, you can not do without a stepladder or other device for high-altitude work.

Installation of drywall on walls without a frame requires a number of conditions:

• the temperature during the work should exceed +10 degrees, therefore, at lower values, it is necessary to take care of the organization of heating;
• it is necessary that the walls in the repaired room be dry;
• in the presence of high humidity in the rooms, moisture-resistant types of facing material are used;
• before installation, it is recommended that the sheets lie for 3 days indoors;
• the base for the installation of gypsum plasterboard must be complete, not fall apart, otherwise it will need to be reinforced first.

The quality of the result directly depends on how the preparation was carried out correctly. Due to the fact that all the necessary tools and materials will be pre-assembled, there is no need to be distracted during work. Maintaining the required microclimate is a prerequisite during the finishing process.

Methods for fixing the gypsum board without installing the frame

In practice, several ways are used of how to level the walls with drywall without a frame. They differ in the materials used for this and the technology of work. The use of the frameless method allows you to sheathe walls or ceilings of rooms and offices, directly fixing the sheets to their surface.

In practice, 2 options are used on how to fix drywall without installing the crate. However, different materials are used. Here's how you can attach the sheets:

• self-tapping screws (for wood) or dowels;
• glue, "liquid nails", polyurethane foam.

Application of polyurethane foam

The photo above shows the application of polyurethane foam to the sheet, then to fix it on the wall.

General scheme of work for any installation method:

• prepare the base;
• fix drywall;
• close up the joints.

Additional strengthening measures are not required. Installation methods can be combined with each other. So, the glued cladding can additionally be fixed with self-tapping screws or dowels.

Depending on the variant of subsequent cladding, the surface can be further putty and then sanded and primed.

The choice of one or another option is determined by both personal preferences and the evenness and material from which the partitions are built. So, drywall to a concrete wall (even) is glued or fixed with dowels. The leveled wooden surface is sheathed using self-tapping screws.

Fixing method with screws, dowels

Plasterboard wall cladding without a frame using self-tapping screws is possible if there is a base made of a suitable material: wood, foam concrete or gypsum. The workflow consists of the following activities:

• remove the existing protrusions: the wooden partitions are leveled by cutting them with a hatchet, or with a chisel with a hammer, and walls made of foam concrete (gypsum) - with a perforator with an inserted chisel;
• fix plasterboard sheets with a pitch of 25-35 cm, using a staggered order of their location on the surface of the base, with hardware 3.9x25 mm or 3.9x35 mm long (on a flat wooden surface) and 3.9x45 mm (on aerated concrete, plaster)

Fastening the gypsum board with self-tapping screws

After screwing in with a screwdriver, the screw head should be slightly "recessed" in the cladding.

The photo below shows the process of fixing a plasterboard fragment on a wooden ceiling.

It should be borne in mind that the strong tightening of hardware in the locations of the depressions causes deformation of the material. To avoid this, the sheets fall short, leaving a slight gap between them and the surface. The strength of the created structure will not decrease.

When it is impossible to screw the screws into the wall (the base is made of concrete, brick, cinder block), then the alignment of the walls with plasterboard without a profile is performed using driven dowels for installation. Their length for unplastered surfaces should be 6x40 mm or 6x60 mm. If the thickness of the cladding layer exceeds 2 cm, then hardware 6x80 or 8x100 mm are used.

The technology consists of the following operations:

• using a perforator or a hammer with a chisel, level the base, removing defective areas;
• when the sheet is installed, then a hole is drilled through it;
• insert the plastic part;
• hammer or twist a metal core, placing a washer under the cap;
• thus, the entire room is sheathed, cutting the sheets if necessary.

The underlay for the metal core head can be made from a U-shaped profile mount. To do this, it is cut into plates with scissors for metal.

In places of depressions, the core is not finished off so that the sheet does not bend.

When all the sheets are attached, then they begin to seal the seams. With flat base surfaces, the use of hardware allows you to quickly sheathe a room or an office.

Bonding technology

For leveling walls with plasterboard on glue, in addition to gypsum compositions, polyurethane foam and "liquid nails" are usually used. Homemade solutions are also used, for example, based on putty and PVA. At the same time, the techniques for applying the compositions to the surface of the installed material differ.

Before you start attaching drywall to the wall, you should prepare it in a special way. The process consists of the following steps:

• the working area is cleaned of old finishes (paint, wallpaper, defective plaster);
• close up cracks;
• apply a primer in two layers;
• dowels are hammered in the corners (screws are screwed in);
• using a plumb line or level, pull the threads between them (thin strings);
• in the highlighted square, lying at an angle of 90 ° relative to the floor, consider surface irregularities;
• if deviations of more than 2 cm are detected, the substrate is prepared from fragments from the material to be installed (the sufficient width of the pieces is 10 cm);
• make markings for fixed sheets of drywall on a wall without a frame.

When sketching the location of the fragments, the gaps between the edges of the gypsum board and the floor (0.7-1 cm), ceiling (0.3-0.5 mm) are taken into account. Open areas (exit of communications) are also taken into account when marking.

It is convenient to use a laser level for marking.

To attach plasterboard to a wall without a profile with deviations of more than 2 cm, it is recommended to install beacons. To do this, proceed as follows:

• pull the threads horizontally along the level with a step of 50 cm;
• under them (also after half a meter), beacons-cakes made of glue are applied;
• control the thread level;
• allow the lighthouses to dry before attaching drywall to walls without a frame.

In the role of beacons, you can also use plasterboard strips with a length along the height of the room, glued vertically after 50 cm. They, in addition to guiding functions, serve as support points for leaning gypsum boards.

Options for leveling the base by gluing the gypsum board

The figure below shows options for leveling walls of various curvatures with plasterboard when mounted on glue.

• wait for the primer to dry completely;
• apply fragmentarily an adhesive mass (with a height greater by 2 cm of the gap between the back of the gypsum board and the surface of the base) at a distance of about 40 cm from each other over the entire surface of the sheet;
• in the same way, cover the base with the composition;
• press the plasterboard fragment against the wall;
• knock him out with a rubber mallet to lean against the beacons.

Installation of gypsum board on adhesives is considered a more difficult and painstaking way, compared to fixing with dowels (self-tapping screws). It is recommended to use deep penetration primers with antiseptic properties for surface treatment before gluing.

The use of mounting glue for fixing drywall is demonstrated in the video below.

Installation using polyurethane foam is shown in the following video.

The use of frameless methods allows you to both level the wall with drywall without a profile, and save money at work and material. The savings figure can reach almost 60% compared to the frame version. The sheets fixed according to the selected technology will hold securely. At the same time, it is easier to work on your own and faster (especially on level grounds) than using a crate.

Related articles:

Plasterboard is probably the most popular sheet material for residential applications. Traditionally, it is mounted on a batten or frame made of bar or galvanized profiles. In this article, I'm going to talk about how it looks like fastening drywall to a wall without a profile.

Installation of moisture-resistant plasterboard on the wall without lathing.

Why drywall

pros

1. Why GKL is used for leveling and rough wall decoration?

Here are the reasons for it:

• The large sheet area reduces the time required for finishing;

Reference: a standard GKL sheet with a size of 2500x1200 mm has an area of \u200b\u200b3 square meters. The area of \u200b\u200ba sheet measuring 3000x1200 is even more impressive - 3.6 m2.

Standard dimensions and weight of plasterboard.

• Drywall is permeable to air and water vapor. This means that the room will not be stuffy even with the windows closed. Of course, provided that the main walls have at least the same vapor and air permeability;

The vapor permeability of the building envelope must always increase from the inside out. Otherwise, instead of filtering water vapor into the street, the owner will receive its accumulation in the thickness of the wall. Humidification will contribute to a drop in thermal insulation properties and a decrease in the service life of walls and floors.

Dependence of the state of the enclosing structures on the vapor permeability of the wall layers, thermal insulation and decoration.

• The price of a GKL sheet looks very attractive against the background of plaster. According to Crimean prices, plastering a square meter of a wall costs at least 400 rubles without the cost of materials. At the same time, a sheet of ordinary, non-moisture-resistant drywall with an area of \u200b\u200b3 square meters can be bought for 300 rubles. Its installation on the wall, in contrast to its plastering, does not require experience and special skills;
• The surface of the gypsum board is compatible with any tile adhesives and is suitable for wallpapering on any wallpaper glue. Without exception, all putties also have excellent adhesion to kraft paper - the top layer of gypsum plasterboard;
• Plasterboard compares favorably with a related material - gypsum fiber sheet in that even with cracks in the gypsum core, two layers of kraft paper keep it in the same plane. The broken sheet can be used to level the walls as long as the fracture area is securely fastened.

This feature of the material is useful when assembling arches: the gypsum board is notched and bent, then its surface is leveled with putty.

Minuses

1. Does the gypsum board have any disadvantages that it is useful for the buyer to know about??

I would politically correctly call them not shortcomings, but features of the material:

• All gypsum-based materials are not friendly with water. Yes, gypsum plasterboard (gypsum plasterboard) tolerates dampness well due to the low hygroscopicity of the core and antifungal additives in gypsum, however, direct contact with water is contraindicated for it;

However: the problem is successfully solved by using water-impermeable materials in the finishing of the premises. In my bathroom, the plasterboard walls and ceiling are painted with rubber waterproofing paint, which allows them to withstand constant contact with splashes of water and occasional wet cleaning using any non-abrasive cleaning agent.

The wall above the tiled backsplash and the ceiling in the bathroom are painted with rubber water-dispersion paint.

• GCR has a very limited strength. If you accidentally hit a drywall wall while carrying furniture, you can break it through. To increase the strength of the partitions, their sheathing along the frame is usually made two-layer; however, mounting to a wall without a profile means mounting the sheet only and exclusively in one layer;
• After leveling the gypsum board, it is problematic to hang a shelf or cabinet on a plasterboard partition or a main wall. Of course, this problem also has a solution, which I will discuss in the corresponding section of the article; however, our material is clearly inferior to the comparison with a main wall in terms of the ease of installation of hinged furniture.

Cabinets are easier to hang on concrete or brick walls.

Installation without profile

What is beneficial

1. Why do you need to install drywall on a wall without a profile?

There are at least two good reasons for this:

• Reduced installation costs. The average consumption of Perlfix gypsum glue, which (a little running ahead) is used for installing drywall on main walls, is 5 kg / sheet at a cost of a 30-kilogram bag from 285 rubles. Thus, the cost of installing one sheet (if, of course, all the work is done by hand) will be only 285/6 \u003d 47.5 rubles;

Plaster glue Perlfix. Packing - 30 kilograms, cost - from 285 rubles.

I will clarify: in practice, the consumption of glue can increase significantly with significant unevenness of the base. In addition, I did not take into account the cost of priming the wall (however, very insignificant).

At the same time, to mount the same sheet on a crate from a ceiling profile, you need:

Galvanized profile plasterboard lathing.

At the most humane prices I have found (they are offered by the Leroy Merlin online store), this set will cost about 250 rubles;

• In addition, fixing drywall to a wall without profiles will significantly increase the free space of the room. Let's do one more simple calculation: find out how much space the frame will take with an average distance from the wall to the GKL sheet of 5 centimeters and a room size of 4x5 meters.

The perimeter of the room is 4 + 4 + 5 + 5 \u003d 18 meters; the total area of \u200b\u200bthe gap between the wall and the drywall is 18 mx 0.05 m \u003d 0.9 m2. Almost 1/20 of the area of \u200b\u200bthe room will be inaccessible for use only thanks to the crate.

If you glue the gypsum board directly on the walls, the cost of the usable area will be limited only by the size of the irregularities on the main wall (as a rule, no more than 5 - 10 mm).

Limitations

1. How to find out if it is possible to mount the gypsum board directly on the wall?

It's simple: if the curvature, blockage or drops in the wall do not exceed 5 centimeters, you can do without the crate. If the size of the irregularities is larger, it is still better to assemble the frame from the profile: the costs of funds and space of the room will be comparable or will change in favor of installation on the crate.

A long rule and level will help you assess the curvature and blockage of the walls.

1. On which walls can drywall be attached without crate?

Different ways of attaching drywall to a wall without a profile allow installation:

• On main walls and partitions made of bricks, limestone, shell rock, concrete (panels and monolith), gas and foam concrete;
• On wooden partitions (frame and board, plastered and unplastered).

Partitions in stalinka - plank, plastered on shingles.

Technology

For self-tapping screws

1. How to install drywall on a wooden partition in a stalinka?

If it does not have significant irregularities, the gypsum board can be attached with self-tapping screws directly to the wall surface. When decorating the walls in the kitchen of one of my old apartments, I didn't even knock down the plaster; due to its thickness, self-tapping screws with a length of 70 mm had to be used for fastening.

1. What screws to use?

Black phosphated. Wood or plasterboard - all the same: they differ only in the pitch of the carving. Self-tapping screws for gypsum plasterboard and drywall have a smaller pitch, due to which it is more difficult to push the sheet through with a hat.

1 - self-tapping screw for drywall and gypsum plasterboard, 2 - self-tapping screw for wood.

1. How to screw in self-tapping screws?

Only with a screwdriver - battery or mains powered. After screwing hundreds of self-tapping screws onto one sheet of drywall with a screwdriver, hands feel, frankly, not very good.

Cordless drywall screwdriver.

1. Is it necessary to reinforce the seams with this installation method?

Necessarily, because with fluctuations in humidity and temperature, the geometry of the wooden partitions will inevitably change. I will tell you how to do this a little later.

1. How to level a wall with drywall without a profile if it is built of bricks or foam blocks? How to fix the gypsum board?

It can be attached:

• On the gypsum glue I have already mentioned;
• On polyurethane foam;

Polyurethane foam has excellent adhesion to any surface.

• If the base has irregularities of no more than 3-5 mm - on liquid nails or any other construction glue.

On glue

1. How to attach drywall to a wall without a profile using liquid nails?

• The base is cleaned from peeling plaster, dirt, glossy paint and other weak and low-adhesive coatings;
• Protrusions with a height of more than 3-5 millimeters are removed with a chisel or perforator;
• The wall is primed over the entire area with acrylic penetrating primer. You need to prime it twice without intermediate drying. The primer will glue the remaining dust and strengthen the surface, preventing the plasterboard from peeling off along with the top layer of the base. Apply the primer with a spray, long-haired roller or soft, wide brush;

Priming the main wall under the GKL sticker.

• After complete drying of the soil, the recesses in the wall with a width of more than 10 centimeters are sealed with a cement - sand mortar. You can use a homemade mortar of Portland cement and sifted sand in a 1: 3 ratio, as well as any cement plaster or putty;
• The seal is re-primed after drying;
• After the soil has completely dried, glue is applied to the back surface of the drywall sheet in strips. The step between the strips is 10-15 cm;

This is how liquid nails are applied to the back of the sheet.

• The sheet is pressed tightly against the wall and is supported by several inclined boards at different heights.

For foam

1. How to fix drywall using foam?

Foam differs from liquid nails and other building adhesives in two features:

• It perfectly fills all the recesses in the wall. If so, they do not need to be repaired - it is enough to remove protrusions more than 5 millimeters high;
• The foam expands upon setting. Therefore, we will have to fix the sheet against the wall for 30 - 60 minutes after sticking it.

How to do it? Here's a simple instruction:

• Putting the sheet against the wall and supporting it with a pair of inclined boards, mark and drill 8 holes for dowel screws approximately 8x80 mm in size in the sheet and the wall at an equal distance from each other;
• Apply foam to the back of the sheet - pointwise in 20 cm increments or stripes around the perimeter and inside the sheet;
• Press the sheet against the wall and fix it with dowel screws. Their caps do not need to be heated below the surface level, as when installing on a frame: after the foam has set, the screws can be removed or, conversely, screwed in to the level of the main wall and hide the holes with putty.

Plasterboard slopes are planted on foam and fixed with dowel screws for the time of its setting.

The position of the sheet strictly in the vertical plane must be controlled with a long level or a rule and a plumb line. Dowel screws will prevent the drywall from bending away from the wall, and the expansion of the foam will prevent the bending in the opposite direction.

On gypsum glue

1. How to fix drywall on a wall without a profile with gypsum glue?

First of all: not only specialized glue (Perlfix, Volma Montage, etc.) is suitable for this purpose, but also any gypsum plaster or plaster. Their price is approximately equal to the cost of glue, the adhesive qualities also practically do not differ.

Plaster or putty can successfully replace gypsum adhesive.

Work in this case begins with the preparation of the wall. It must be cleaned of dirt, dust free and primed with penetrating acrylic primer twice.

The adhesive is prepared as follows:

• Glue, plaster or putty are poured into a wide container with water at the rate of 1 liter per 1.6 kg of the mixture. They are distributed as evenly as possible over the water surface;

The dry mixture is poured into water. If you pour water into gypsum glue, there will be many dry lumps at the bottom of the container.

• Then the future glue is kept for 3-5 minutes. During this time, the maximum volume of the dry mixture must be saturated with water;
• The mixture is mixed by hand (with a spatula or trowel) or with a mixer. A drill with an appropriate attachment will do. Stir the mixture until a homogeneous consistency without lumps is obtained.

The adhesive can be applied equally well to the wall and the sheet itself. It seems to me more convenient to apply on the wall: the gypsum board already weighs 30 kg, and together with the glue it becomes very massive and inconvenient to move. The glue should be applied in blotches in 15 - 20 centimeters increments; a solid roller is needed only at the level of the plinth - it will significantly simplify its fastening with dowel screws.

So gypsum glue is applied to the surface of the gypsum board.

Then the sheet is pressed against the wall and aligned using a level and a rule in the vertical plane. As a rule, he does not need additional fixation: the viscosity of the glue ensures stability in position. The position and bend of the gypsum board are corrected by light blows of the palm or a rubber mallet.

By the way: I used the same method of fastening drywall when finishing door and window slopes. The final gypsum plaster Eurogypsum was used as an adhesive.

The doorway slopes in the photo are finished with plasterboard, planted with Eurogips finishing putty.

A couple of nuances:

• When installing adjacent sheets, special attention should be paid to the mutual position of their edges. The drops will have to be removed with a thick layer of putty, which will unreasonably increase the cost of money and time for finishing;

The edges of adjacent sheets must be strictly in the same plane.

• On a curved wall with significant differences, it is necessary to pre-stick on the same gypsum glue or on the putty beacons made of plasterboard scraps. For the same purpose, you can use dowel screws partially screwed into the wall; the position of the sheet is corrected by screwing them in and out by several turns.

Sheets are aligned in one plane using improvised beacons.

Sealing and filling

1. How to patch up seams between adjacent sheets?

Drywall (even moisture resistant) has a certain hygroscopicity and slightly changes its linear dimensions with fluctuations in humidity. The same thing happens with temperature changes: nobody canceled thermal expansion. Periodic changes in the dimensions of adjacent sheets sooner or later lead to the appearance of cracks along the seams separating them.

A few years after finishing the room, cracks appeared on the seams without reinforcement.

To prevent the seams from cracking, they need to be reinforced. Serpyanka is traditionally used for this purpose - a roll-up self-adhesive fiberglass mesh with a cell size of about 2 millimeters. It is glued along the seam, after which it is filled with putty right through the mesh.

Reinforcement of the seam with a serpentine.

The seam is putty in at least two passes. With the first pass, the seam cavity is filled with putty, with the second, the reinforcing glass mesh is covered. Sometimes a third pass is also required: the putty gives a slight but noticeable shrinkage during drying, and the seam looks concave after setting.

The preparation and use of putty has several subtleties:

• It is prepared in small portions. The exact size of a single serving of putty depends on your putty skills. It seems to me convenient to use no more than one and a half kilograms of dry mixture at a time;

The putty is prepared in small portions. The pot life of the finished mixture does not exceed 30 - 40 minutes.

• You need to wash dishes and spatulas before preparing each new portion. Otherwise, the old putty will form hard lumps in the solution. These lumps, when applied to the gypsum plaster, will leave untidy furrows in it;
• It is convenient to use a spatula 10 - 12 cm wide to fill the seam. The seam is filled with sliding movements crosswise; in this case, both sides of it are filled with putty as evenly and tightly as possible;

The edges of the sheets cut to size are cut with a sharp knife before puttying.

• The second (covering) layer of putty is applied with movements along the seam with a spatula 30-35 centimeters wide. The putty is preliminarily applied to it with a narrow spatula.

I prefer to reinforce the seam not with a serpentine, but with rolled fiberglass: due to the smaller thickness of the material, the seam stands out less on the surface of adjacent sheets. Fiberglass is denser than the mesh and does not allow filling the seam through it, therefore, the reinforcement technology is noticeably different from the one I described above:

• The seam is filled with putty (taking into account its shrinkage during drying - by two times);
• Then fiberglass is glued along the seam. Glue - diluted with water in a 1: 1 ratio of PVA. It is applied to glass mat laid on top of drywall scraps with a wide brush;

Rolled fiberglass. Due to its lower thickness, it gives a more accurate seam compared to a serpentine.

It is more convenient to cut the fiberglass for the sticker into pieces about a meter long.

• The reinforcing tape is pressed against the seam and smoothed out with a rubber or steel trowel. If you do this with your bare hands, your skin will end up with many of the finest pieces of fiberglass. These splinters are not very painful and come out quickly, but they noticeably interfere with work;
• After the glue has dried (it takes no more than an hour), the seam is covered with a final layer of putty and sanded.

1. Do I need to putty the entire surface of the drywall?

This is optional, but desirable. The putty creates a separating layer on the surface, which allows, if necessary, to peel off the wallpaper without peeling off the top layer of kraft paper. In addition, surface filling will reliably mask the seams that stand out.

Puttying plasterboard-finished walls.

It is convenient to use a special angled spatula to level the corners.

Puttying the surface is easiest to perform in two layers "on the sdir": the putty is applied with a narrow spatula on a wide one and spread on the gypsum board with sliding movements as thin as possible. After drying the first layer, the operation is repeated again.

At least two weeks should elapse between filling drywall and painting the walls with water-based paint. During this time, the remaining moisture will completely leave the seams. If you rush to paint, the seams will stand out in a dark tone with any number of layers of dye.

1. How to sand?

For this purpose, I use a vibrating sander with sanding nets # 80 (first pass) and # 120 (second pass) attached to it. Sanding is best in the brightest possible light at an oblique angle to the surface: it will allow you to see the slightest irregularities thanks to cast or shadows.

Even an inexpensive vibratory sander will greatly speed up work compared to a hand-held grater.

Take the time to wear safety glasses and a gauze bandage or respirator. Gypsum dust is highly irritating to the eyes and mucous membranes.

Comrades! Do not neglect personal protective equipment!

Hanging furniture

1. How to fix a hinged shelf or cabinet on a wall covered with plasterboard?

If the wall is sheathed with gypsum board on self-tapping screws or pasted over using construction glue, there will be no problems in principle: the sheet is tightly pressed against the wall, which makes it possible to use ordinary dowel screws of increased length for installation.

Foam or gypsum glue means that there is a gap between the sheet and the main wall, which allows the drywall to be washed out during installation.

At the stage of wall cladding, the problem is solved in two ways:

• In the place of the intended attachment of the hinged furniture, a continuous layer of gypsum glue, plaster or putty is applied to the back of the gypsum board or to the wall;

The more often the glue cakes are applied, the greater the load the facing will withstand.

• The GKL section is cut out, and instead of it, a wooden insert of the appropriate thickness is attached to the wall with dowel screws or anchors.

The latter method will also work if the drywall is already fixed: it is enough to cut it with a sharp knife around the perimeter of the embedded part and cut the plaster glue with a chisel, after which the embedded from a bar or thick plywood is attached directly to the wall.

Finally, elongated anchors with a couple of additional threaded nuts can be used to attach hanging furniture directly through the drywall and the gap between it and the main wall. The fixing corners of the cabinets are clamped between these nuts.

To fix the cabinet, it is enough to provide the wedge anchor with a pair of additional nuts.

Molly anchors can be used for light shelves. They only stick to drywall.

Conclusion

I hope that my simple advice will help the dear reader in decorating his own home. As always, I would appreciate your comments and additions. The video in this article will offer you additional information. Good luck, comrades!

If you want to express gratitude, add clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Not a single renovation in our time is complete without drywall. Walls are constantly sheathed with this material, various structures are made from it and ceilings are finished with it. As a rule, for the installation of drywall sheets, a frame is pre-mounted on which the material is fixed. However, more and more people tend to attach drywall to the wall without a profile. What is the reason for this? Primarily with the desire to save time, money and labor.

But is it possible to mount drywall directly to the wall? The question is ambiguous. Experienced craftsmen recommend mounting a metal or wooden frame and only then fixing gypsum sheets on it. However, with proper installation, it is possible to install drywall on walls without a frame. Nevertheless, it is better to think it over several times and if only if the solution has no alternatives to get down to business, since fixing the gypsum board without a frame just for the sake of economy can result in high costs in the future. You can fix plasterboard in this way, for example, if you are carrying out repairs in small rooms, such as bathrooms, toilets, balconies, then the frame will steal precious space.

One of the exotic ways to fix gypsum plasterboard without a profile is to glue it onto polyurethane foam.

Conditions for fixing without profiles

In order to attach directly to the wall of gypsum board or gypsum plasterboard, a number of necessary conditions must be observed, without which this procedure is simply impossible.

The wall should be vertical and perfectly flat, that is, not have any even the slightest slopes. There are situations when the wall is not level enough and in such cases it is carried out, partial installation of the frame. The metal profiles in this installation option only serve as a leveling device for the wall.

The height of the room should not exceed the length of the plasterboard sheet. The problem here is that when installing drywall sheets, it is assumed that the joints of different pieces of drywall will be located along the transverse metal profiles. If you attach the sheets directly to the wall, then you should not have transverse joints at all, since there is nothing to attach them to.

If the wall has minor irregularities from two millimeters to two centimeters, then there is an option to level it with a starting putty, to which you must first add from ten to fifteen percent of gypsum. For fixing drywall, it is recommended to use ready-made adhesive mixtures. The mixture must be applied along the perimeter of the entire sheet, as well as in one continuous strip in its center.

If the irregularities are much larger, then instead of frame profiles, you can use plasterboard beacons. They are drywall, cut into squares or rectangles of ten to twenty centimeters and serve to level the wall with drywall sheets without a frame.

After the glue mixture has dried, the plasterboard sheets are again fastened with dowels in the corners and in the center. The dowels are attached so that they go into the wall by at least forty millimeters.

After the final installation of the sheets has been carried out, it is necessary to putty the connecting seams, and also glue the mesh.

Related videos to help

Required tools

For finishing you will need some non-standard tools. It is better to prepare them in advance.

• Knife with replaceable blades for cutting plasterboard sheets;
• An electric jigsaw or saw for working with drywall;
• Strong thread. It will come in handy to create a plane level;
• Nails or screws;
• Building level;
• Simple pencil;
• Plumb line;
• Scraper to clean the edges of the drywall sheet;
• Drill, whisk and bucket to dilute and stir the solution;
• Putty knife. It is better to take two spatulas - wide and narrow;
• Rubber hammer;
• Normal hammer;
• Pliers;
• Phillips screwdriver.

Let's also look at the materials that will be used during the work.

• Plasterboard sheets;
• Adhesive for working with drywall sheets. You can also use a starter putty if you add ten percent gypsum or PVA glue to it;
• Water;
• Primer;
• Dowels. The size of each dowel should be from eighty to one hundred and twenty millimeters;
• Serpyanka;
• Glue.

Preparation for installation

If you are going to finish with plasterboard a wall made of brick or concrete, then it must first be cleaned and sprayed with mortar. Then the surface needs to be primed. It is necessary to dilute the soil strictly in accordance with the instructions specified by the manufacturer. If it says on the packaging that the primer is ready to work, then nothing needs to be diluted. You can immediately start processing the wall.

If old plaster has been preserved on the wall, it is tedious to carefully examine it in order to identify weak points and treat them with a solution, and then a primer.

It is categorically impossible to fix plasterboard sheets to walls in rooms where there is constant dampness. And also it is impossible to carry out this type of repair if condensation remains on the walls of the room. This will seriously damage the fastening of the sheets. In such rooms, it is necessary to use a special moisture-resistant drywall and attach it only to the frame.

Before fixing drywall, it is necessary to inspect for deviations from the vertical and in alignment using a level and a plumb line. If this is possible, then all convex places must be knocked down, and the hollows must be covered with a solution in order to perfectly level the surface before starting installation.

Already after priming, with a pencil or chalk, markings are applied to the wall. If you do this before priming, then all the drawings will simply be washed off. Plasterboard sheets, from the side of attachment to the wall, must also be greased with a primer before fastening. Lighthouses need to be cut from drywall waste and primed on both sides.

If necessary, the next stage of installation is the installation of electrical wiring. In cases where the wire must pass over the protrusions of the wall, it must be drowned in drywall. To do this, you will have to make special grooves in the sheet.

Mounts on a flat and curved surface

If the surface of the wall is relatively flat, then you don't have to use beacons. Use a mixer to mix dry powder in water and make glue. If you do not have a mixer, you can make the glue by hand, but then the process will take much more time and effort.

If you decide to add PVA glue to the putty, then first you need to dilute the glue in the water, and only then pour the dry powder. If you do the opposite, then the putty will harden very quickly and turn into stone. Naturally, after that, it will no longer be possible to use it for its intended purpose.

Apply glue to drywall sheets in one continuous strip along the entire perimeter on all edges. In the center of the sheet, you also need to apply several cakes from the solution in a checkerboard pattern. The distance between the cakes should be about forty centimeters. For the fastening to be reliable enough, you need to coat more than a tenth of the surface of the drywall sheet with glue.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Fasten the sheet to the wall strictly vertically. It must be attached and pressed against the wall. It is best if someone will help you with this, since it is problematic to do this process alone. Check how firmly the sheet is attached. If in doubt, squeeze it harder where the lag occurs. It is to take into account this subsequent adjustment that enough solution is applied to the sheet. If the solution is not enough, then theoretically the sheet can be peeled off, but it is better to avoid such situations, since in the process of peeling off the plasterboard sheet can simply break.

If the wall is tilted or turned, you will have to use beacons. Use a strong thread to form a net to indicate the desired verticality and plane. Next, the beacons are installed in the right places. They need to be installed so that they touch the thread frame. Then the drywall sheets are attached in the same way as in the first version. After that, fix the problem areas with dowels, and seal the seams with putty and serpyanka.

If you are attaching drywall sheets to a wooden wall or ceiling, then everything is much easier. To install such a cladding, it is enough to fasten the sheets to the wall with self-tapping screws or screws. If the wooden wall is not even, then this is corrected by the imposition of additional wooden linings, and all the bulges can be removed with an ordinary plane.

As you can see, there are different ways to install gypsum plasterboard sheets, but the most reliable way to install gypsum board is installation on a metal frame. Only in this way will the sheets be held firmly enough.

Successful perception of the repair and construction work carried out. Even the most sophisticated finishing materials will lose all their gloss against the background of hollows or bumps in the wall planes. Therefore, the alignment of walls during renovation can be considered a priority. Drywall is the best suited for its implementation.

GKL, as a finishing material, does not need special advertising. Moisture-resistant, ordinary, fire-resistant - for any room, you can choose drywall of the required quality. For bathrooms - moisture resistant, for corridors - fire resistant, usual for living rooms.

Standard sizes 600х1250, 1200х2000, 1200х2500, 1200х3000 allow using this material practically without waste. After minimal processing, the surface of the sheets is ready for wallpapering, applying textured plaster, and for laying tiles.

There are two ways of attaching the gypsum board to the walls - frame and frameless.

1. The first option is much more suitable for large rooms where there is no space limit. A frame made of profiles and drywall mounted on it take at least 40 mm of floor and ceiling from each wall (27mm - profile + 12.5 mm - gypsum board).
2. The frameless method allows you to fix drywall sheets directly to the vertical surfaces of a room or office. In addition to saving space, this method is more profitable from an economic point of view. The financial component of the frame is 60% of the cost of walls mounted from gypsum plasterboard.

There are three options for frameless installation of drywall sheets on walls:

• Fastening sheets with self-tapping screws.
• Installation of plasterboard with dowels.
• Gluing drywall.

Preparatory work

Before proceeding with the alignment of the walls with the help of drywall sheets, it is necessary to make a general analysis of the proposed activities and choose a method for their implementation.

An overall assessment of the situation includes:

• Checking the verticality of the walls. It is made using a level or plumb line.
• Inspection of the plane of the walls. It is carried out with a long rule, or with a stretched cord. The presence of bumps and depressions is revealed.
• Checking the outside and inside corners. It is carried out in order to determine deviations from geometric correctness (often 90 degrees). The tool most often is a square.
• Evaluation of door and window openings. A check is made vertically and horizontally and the need for adjusting the openings using gypsum board is determined.

Depending on the identified deviations and the condition of the walls, an alignment method is selected. Small errors can be easily eliminated by fixing the drywall sheets directly to the existing walls. Large differences and irregularities will require either a frame or installation of gypsum board on special glue.

Installation of drywall sheets with self-tapping screws

This mounting option is possible only if there is a base into which self-tapping screws can be screwed. It can be wood, aerated concrete blocks or gypsum partitions.

Preliminary preparation for installation work will consist in removing the protruding sections of the wall plane. The hillocks of the wooden base are leveled with a hammer and a chisel, it is also possible to use a hatchet. Foam concrete and gypsum partitions are easiest to process with a perforator with a chisel.

Plasterboard sheets are fastened in a checkerboard pattern. Self-tapping screws for wood serve as hardware for fastening. The length of the screws varies according to the wall material. Self-tapping screws 3.9x25 and 3.9x35 mm are suitable for cladding a relatively flat wooden surface.

Self-tapping screws 3.9x45 mm are used for mounting gypsum boards on aerated concrete and gypsum partitions. When tightening the screws, it is necessary to monitor the depth of embedding of the hardware head. It is considered normal if the screw is immersed in the drywall by 1 - 2 mm. The fixing step is about 250 mm at the edge of the sheet and 250 - 350 mm at its center.

Particular attention should be paid to the attachment points of the gypsum board in the areas - depressions. Severely tightened self-tapping screws will simply deform the drywall. As a result, it will exactly repeat the relief of the irregularities of the walls.

In such cases, it makes sense not to hold out the hardware, leaving a small space between the base and the sheets. This will not greatly affect the strength of the structure, but the number of layers of putty for leveling will noticeably reduce.

Fastening the plasterboard with dowels

If it is not possible to screw self-tapping screws into walls and partitions, then you can mount drywall on dowels. For unplastered brick, concrete and cinder block bases, hammer-in dowels 6x40 or 6x60 mm are used. When the walls are plastered, and the layer of plaster reaches 20 mm, you will have to use hardware 6x80 and even 8x100 mm.

The preparation of the seats for the installation of dowels is carried out with a perforator with a drill of the appropriate diameter. The hole is drilled through the plasterboard sheet installed in place. The plastic sleeve must have a "sweep" end.

It is advisable to tighten the metal core with a screwdriver or screwdriver. Sometimes it is impossible to tighten the screw and you have to resort to using a hammer. In this case, it is advisable to put a homemade washer under the screw head - a gasket. Such washers can be made from a U-shaped bracket for gypsum board. To do this, the bracket is cut with metal scissors into several plates, and a self-tapping screw is threaded into the already existing holes.

As in the case of mounting sheets on self-tapping screws, cavities in the plane of walls and partitions can become a problem place. The recipe for elimination is to under-tighten the dowel core until it stops.

Installation of drywall on an adhesive mixture

Such an assembly is the most difficult and painstaking way of leveling walls with plasterboard without a frame. Installation is carried out in the following order:

1. Inspection of the surface to be leveled. Includes definition of protruding places of walls and walls. In these areas, the amount of adhesive applied will be minimal. Identification of areas with swollen plaster and putty. Such places will need to be cleaned.
2. Surface preparation for installation.Mechanical removal of old wallpaper, tiles, peeling plaster. Notching sections of walls covered with oil or pentaphthalic paints.
3. Priming of walls and partitions. It is better to use a deep penetration primer as a primer. For areas covered with paint, concrete contact can be applied.
4. Installation of lighthouse marks. The main task of such an event is to create points of the back side of the gypsum board. Lighthouse marks can be plastic clips of dowels with self-tapping screws screwed into them. The heads of the hardware must create a plane on which the drywall will be mounted.
5. Installation of drywall sheets.A special adhesive mass is applied both to the wall and to the gypsum board. The glue is applied not in a continuous layer, but in fragments. The distance between such fragments is 30 - 40 cm. The height is 15 - 20 mm larger than the gap between the base and the back of the drywall. The sheet is pressed against the wall, and the correctness of its installation is checked by the rule with the level.
How far should the hangers for the profile be attached to the wall

Various materials are used to work with drywall. The most common method is the installation of profiled metal frames, but wooden structures can also be found quite often.

Wood is a natural, environmentally friendly building material, so many people prefer it. It should be said that the tree is subject to climatic effects, biological corrosion and fire hazard, therefore it requires additional processing.

Wood preparation

They make a frame for drywall from coniferous wood. A beam of various sections is used, the value of which depends on the height of the partition and the method of sheathing.

Basic physical characteristics:

• Humidity from 12 to 18%.
• For W121 partitions with a height of 2.8–3 m, a bar with a section of 60 × 50 mm for risers and 60 × 40 mm for lathing is used.
• For W122 partitions with a height of 2.8–4.2 m, a beam with a section of 60 × 50 mm is suitable for risers and battens, while, depending on the height, different sheet thicknesses are used: for a height of 2.8–3 m - 2 × 12.5 mm, 3.3–3.6 m - 2 × 14 mm, 3.6–3.9 m - 2 × 16 mm, 3.9–4.2 m - 2 × 18 mm.
• The step between the risers for all cases should not exceed 60 cm.
• Fire retardant treatment must comply with the first group of fire safety.
• Connection on nails, thorns and self-tapping screws is allowed, while thorns are the most preferable, since they create a rigid and durable connection.
• The thickness of mineral wool sound insulation should be between 50 and 60 mm.
• The wall thickness can be from 85 to 132 mm.
• The insulation index ranges from 41 to 51 depending on the thickness of the wall.

Important!
Before installation, the wood must lie for several days in the room where it is supposed to be installed in order to acclimatize.

Use quality lumber that meets the requirements for moisture and fire safety. Make sure that you have certificates of material processing with fire retardants and passing the appropriate examinations.

In addition to fireproofing, the wooden frame for drywall must be antiseptic.

This measure is aimed at combating all kinds of biological risk factors, namely:

• Fungal and mold microorganisms... A tree can serve as a breeding ground for the mycelium of a number of molds, and the wood deteriorates and collapses.
• Biological decay... Wood is an organic material that is prone to necrobiosis and decay. Antiseptic treatment is required for conservation.
• Carpenter insects... Many insects are known to feed on wood and render it unusable.
• Rodents... Also dangerous for wood. Antiseptic treatment scares these animals away.

Pest insects can spoil wood in a short time

Various chemical compounds are used as antiseptics. One of the best is sodium fluoride.

It is a light gray powder soluble in hot water. The limiting rate is 3.5–4%.

Sodium fluoride penetrates well into wood and is very weakly washed out. At the same time, the compound does not decompose and does not provoke metal corrosion, is odorless and is not toxic to humans. Strong enough antiseptic.

Sodium fluorosilicon is also used, often with the addition of soda ash, which converts it into pure sodium fluoride.

It is unacceptable for residential premises to use oily antiseptics:

• creosote;
• coal;
• shale;
• anthracene oils.

These compounds are toxic and can harm the health of people living in the home.

Installation of a wooden frame for drywall

To trace the lines connecting the partition to the walls

Use the rule to draw lines

To do this, measure the distance at which the plane of the future partition should be located and retreat from it the width of the gypsum board sheet.

It is better to do this along the ceiling-wall line. Having marked the desired point under the ceiling, it is easy to transfer it with a plumb line down the wall. To do this, we hammer in a nail at a point, hang a plumb line and mark the corresponding point at the bottom of the wall, near the floor.

We connect these two points and get the first line. Next, you need to draw a line from the bottom point perpendicular to the wall.

• This can be done by constructing an "Egyptian triangle" - a right-angled triangle with an aspect ratio of 3: 4: 5, where 3 and 4 correspond to the legs, and 5 is the hypotenuse. In this case, we lay one leg along the wall from the bottom point, making it a multiple of three.
• From the bottom point, we draw a circular arc in the direction of the perpendicular to the wall with a radius that is a multiple of four.
• From the other end of the leg, built along the wall, we construct an arc of a circle with a radius multiple of five so that it intersects with the previously constructed arc.
• By connecting the intersection of these arcs with the original bottom point, we get a perpendicular to the wall. We draw a line along this perpendicular on the floor - the second line of our partition.

We connect the two upper points on the walls along the ceiling and get the fourth last line. Thus, we must draw a rectangle along the lines floor-wall-ceiling-wall, along which the partition will adjoin the room.

Advice!
To build a perpendicular, you can go for the trick - attach a sheet of drywall to the wall with the short side, and draw a perpendicular along the long one from the calculated point.

Frame installation

As you can see in the photo, the frame consists of a frame, vertical and horizontal beams. Installation of the frame should be started with the frame.

To do this, fix the bars along the lines that we built along the walls and ceiling. If the house is wooden, we fasten them with screws or spikes to the ceiling beam, floor logs and walls.

If the building is stone, we fasten the bars with dowels and screws. You can also use straight hangers or brackets.

We fasten solid bars along the walls and ceiling. Along the floor, the timber should diverge on both sides of the doorway. If the opening is against a wall, the bottom beam will be solid and will lie on one side of the opening.

So, we fix all the bars, to drill holes in the walls and ceiling, we use an impact drill with a drill on concrete.

Doorway

The doorway is formed by double risers

DIY doorway installation instructions:

1. To do this, we install two risers on the sides of it. The width of the opening should be 4–5 cm wider than the door frame.
2. We install risers and reinforce them with additional bars.
3. At the height of the door frame plus 2-3 cm, we install a horizontal lintel, which we connect with two vertical bars to the ceiling strip.
4. Vertical beams give the structure additional rigidity and are needed for joining drywall sheets.

Racks

To determine the location of the lintel, we apply a sheet of drywall, which will be located at the doorway, in the place of its edge we fix the lintel so that the edge of the sheet falls in the middle of the board.

Advice!
To connect the beams, it is better to use metal corners and metal plates intended for assembling rafter systems.
These mounts are reliable and designed for heavy loads.

We check every detail by level, the racks must be strictly vertical, the jumpers must be horizontal.

Try to arrange the racks so that the wall contains the maximum possible number of whole sheets of plasterboard. This will save time and material.

Sheathing the frame with GKL sheets is a topic for a separate article. We can only say that drywall is mounted on a wooden frame in the same way as on a metal one.

It should be noted that the price of a profile is lower than that of high-quality lumber, and dealing with low-quality timber is more expensive for yourself, so think carefully.

Tool

You will need:

1. a hammer;
2. hacksaw for wood;
3. screwdriver;
4. impact drill with a drill for concrete;
5. construction knife;
6. plumb line;
7. level;
8. pencil;
9. roulette;
10. square;
11. crowbar;
12. screwdriver;
13. coated thread;
14. screws;
15. dowels;
16. brackets.

If you don't have a hammer drill or screwdriver, you can rent one from a home improvement store.

Also, do not forget about mineral wool, which is necessary for sound insulation. Thick mesh mats can be used to avoid laying the cotton in two layers.

Conclusion

Now you know how to assemble a wooden frame under the gypsum board. In order to more accurately understand the technological and practical issue, our website contains detailed photo and video instructions, in which you will find the necessary information on this issue. Good luck!