Oak barrel do it yourself at home. Such a page does not exist

Barrels and bans are in great demand in the household. They keep in brine of the fat, ham, roaming cabbage, uroat apples. What can be compared, for example, cucumber or tomato salted in oak tube. And in the lime barrel is perfectly stored honey, apple juice, you can cook kvass in it.

Finally, the oak junction with a lemon or laurel tree and today will not spoil the interior of even the urban apartment. That's just not to find these simple items or in the store or on the market. But you can do it yourself, and although this task is not simple, to cope with it to the amateur mastery is quite bye. We will tell you more about the manufacture of these capacities in the farm.

First of all, you need to choose wood. For storage of honey, oak and pine are unsuitable - in the oak barrel, honey darkens, and in the pine smells the resin. It is necessary for linden, aspen, chinar. Survive and poplar, vet, alder. But for the salting, joy or urine, there is nothing better than oak - such a barrel will serve not one decade. For other needs, you can use wheezing, beech, spruce, fir, pine, cedar, larch, and even birch.

Determined with the sizes you will help here such a table.

Notice, here are the sizes of barrels to choose the size for the pipe, the height and diameter of the head remains the same. The diameter in the bunch of barrels (diameter in the center) for the pipe goes into the bottom diameter.

When the size is selected, you need to proceed to rivets, the main component of the barrel.

Give the sizes of rivet

There is another way to determine the size. The ratio of the pitch or barrel diameter should be in proportion, for example, 350: 490 mm (Fig. 1-6). Increasing or reducing height, change the diameter of the container. The number of rivets for barrel or chubs is calculated according to the formula 2 * PI * R / W, where R is the radius of the pipe in the lower section (for the barrel - in the middle); "PI" is a constant value of 3.14; W is the riveting width on the bottom of the pipe (for a barrel - in the middle).

Kleck

Usually, the lower part of the trunk of old trees is going on, it is called - "Rippoint". But a fan of marshy and from ordinary firewood will choose the workpiece, and the thinner trunk will adapt to the case. It is best to make rivets from raw wood. At first, a chock - it should be 5-6 cm longer than the future riveting - they are split off in half, carefully tapping with a full-time axle. Each half is then coluting into two parts and so on, depending on the thickness of the chocks, ultimately get a blank 5-10 cm wide (for the donon - 15 cm) and a thickness of 2.5-3 cm. You only need to try to split She walked radially - it would save the riveting in the future from cracking.

Thick blanks dried indoors with natural ventilation at least a month. To speed up the process, you can use the dryer. The dried billet is treated with a row or shropele and a planer.

Marking riveting.

Take a plate width from 30 to 100 mm, along the outer side, a line is carried out that divide the riveting in half in width (for the barrel - and in length). For the taper of the pipe (barrels), it is necessary to withstand the tape of riveting. It should be about 8 °. This means that with the width of riveting on the bottom of the pipe (for the barrel - in the middle) 100 mm, at the top it should be 8 mm already, i.e. 92 mm. And for the barrel at the top and bottom - 92 mm. Fix the installed riveting width with dots and connect 4 points with lines - for public and 6 points - for barrel. These are planing guidelines that determine the taper. The plane of the radius segment on the template, its direction to the center together with the already defined slope of the future head of the barrel or tube is the main requirement for the mouth of the riveting one to the other during a sewage. Therefore, it is necessary to make a template to the treated cloth, checking the planing.

Ostrog Cloch.

It is plasted by a riveting of the Rovenkom, causing every thickness, and immediately determine which side will be outdoor. For this we get the left and right side of the riveting along the length. Squarel with oval base and iron plane on the template (Fig. 5) the inner side is completely and carried out with a pencil line dividing riveting in half along length. Then the riveting in length is shoved and remove the separation line on the ends. Semi-cell (FUNCOM) is processed by the outdoor and side sides of the riveting, the correctness of the planing is verified by the template. It is made on the radius of the assembly hoop for the pipe, and for the barrel - on the radius of the PUP hoop, made in advance. For a barrel with two bottoms, two pairs of hoops are harvested - 2 stubborn and 2 PUPs. Pup wrap should flow freely through the resistant one.

Especially carefully check the correctness of the side of the side of the riveting for the barrel. The template must fit tightly to the side and outdoor sides of the riveting, especially in the midline dividing the riveting in half in length. When planing side sides, you cannot allow deviations from the line brought to the end and the deserted riveting in half.

Hoops

Hoops for barrels are made of wood or steel. Woods are not as durable, and the hassle is a hundred times more, so it is better to use steel. On the hoops there is a hot rolled steel tape with a thickness of 1.6-2.0 mm and a width of 30-50 mm.

Measuring the barrel at the site of the hoop stretch, add a double bandwidth to this size. Hammer blows bending the blank into the ring, pierce or drill holes and put rivets from soft steel wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm. One inner edge of the hoop must be fragmented by blowing the pointed end of the hammer on a massive steel stand.

Assets assembly

The assembly hoop is made by the average between the riding and the bottom of the pipe and slightly smaller diameter for the midline for the barrel. On a pure wooden base, we put a vertically assembly hoop and put 5-6 rivets inside the outside to the hoop. On the left, one of the rivets and the hoop clamp clamp. Slightly raise the hoop and spread the remaining rivets. Close the hoop. Tight fit of rivets along the entire length (for publication) and to the midline (for a barrel) - the result of thorough ingots and fitting. In the same way, we collect the cores for the barrel, but here we remove the assembly hoop after the navel of the PUP hoop, then stubborn hoop. If it snaps tightly, it means that we are correctly plashed and correctly picked up the last riveting in width.

The cores for the barrel from the middle or slightly above the fan-like diverge to its bottom. For tightening the dissolved end of the isow, various methods and devices are used. The end of the steel stranded cable with a diameter of 6-8 mm is fixed for fixed support. The second end is thrown onto the hot, packed dissipated core, attached to the head of the post from the ground inserted for this purpose, or a raised part of the log and the method "Removing", with the help of a strong cola inserted into the loop at the end of the cable, "twist" the cable and put on Pup, and then thorough hoops.

After the assembly of the core is tested on horizontal and verticality and hesitate completely all hoops. From the inside of the island (barrels or tubes), it is cleaned, and in the ends of the rivets are cut into 1/3 of the thickness (Fig. 6) and 2-3 mm from the outside. Finally cleaned outdoor and inside the island, the upper and lower ends fell.

Installing Donets in the Easpens

For this, several operations are performed.

1. Cutting a helical groove in the cooler. The helper applied a helper groove. The width of the divorce of the tooth steel file is 4-5 mm. Therefore, the width of the cutting udering groove should be 4-5 mm. The sawturo performs from a coated bar of a coat of 4-5 mm. Therefore, the depth of the groove of the air can not be different. Brusker's thickness of the coat is a distance limiter of a distance of a rid of the ultra of the top to the bottom of the plank, on which the bar is fixed, i.e. 40-50 mm. Mandatory on both sides of the auctor groove, it is necessary to remove the chamfer of 2-3 mm or a little more to prevent the skill of the cable at the insertion of the Donia and the compression of their hoops.

2. Build bottom shields. They are collected on wooden or metal (preferably stainless) studs-nails of 4-6 skulls. Extreme are called jambs, medium - ladels. On the shoals take a plank that wider. We still do not yet know the diameter of the circumference on the cooler. We take the circulation (Fig. 4) and weeping his legs about the radius of the alleged circumference along the cooler, insert the tip of the feet of the circulation into the user, divide the circle on 6 parts. Thus, we will define the radius of the circumference on the publication for the Donets. We transfer the resulting radius to the bottom shield and draw a circle.

3. Dipping of the Donents. Loop the desired dona with an ampagular saw or spinned hacksaw. At the same time, the propyl should be on the inside of the line, the battered circle when the dust separation of the saws is 2-2.5 mm. By this we reduce the diameter of the circle by 0.14 permanent "PI".

4. Date processing. We put the dont-circle on the workbench, completely from two sides, in the face of a pencil in the middle of the line with a thickness of 3-4 mm. A radius of 25-30 mm smaller than the Donette, to do so on two sides of the circle. These are the borders of the soles. The chisel or plans will remove the chamfer and make sure that the arsenic grooves and the filmed stage of the Donets fit well. Line on the end of the Donets leave untouched.

5. Installing the Donents. This is the final barrel manufacturing operation or tub. I turn over the energies of the public a wide part and slightly knock down the lower hoop. The barrel is knocked up stubborn, and the navel hoop is shifted so much so that the Donets come into a helical groove. Hold the donation in a horizontal position when installing in Urban, a kapron thread will help, crucifably tieting the bottom. When the Donets are installed in the ultrasters, the thread is pulled out, the hoops put in place. Before installing the second dona, two tongue holes opposite each other are drilled in it and 4-5 cm from the inner side of the outstand with a diameter of 20-25 mm, which put the tongs so that the barrel does not get the garbage. After installing the second dona, the hoops finally stuff and follow that the Donets are fascinated by rivets in the units, and the ripples would not have gaps among themselves. If the ripples were properly planed and sustained a slope on the template, drank neatly the Donets, the product would be high quality.

Take note.

1. Before assembling the cores for barrel or tubs, the treated riveting must be dried up to 17-20% humidity.

2. Push the oak, spruce, pine, aspen barrels and tubs need not less than 10 days, changing water in 2-3 days. At the same time, shoals and skias are soaked, which pressed the fermented products.

3. To reduce the formation of mold on riveting pads during storage in the cellar, it is wiped with a tampon, moistened in the calcined vegetable oil. Jocks, skias and clamping stone once a week washed with hot water.

How many barrel serve

First of all, it depends on the operating conditions. But it is important to remember that it is not necessary to paint the fuel tanks of oil paint: it closes the pores, which contributes to the rotting of the wood. Wrap it is desirable to paint - they will not rust. In decorative purposes, the barrel, the floral ride can be treated with rubbers.

A brown color of the oak gives harated lime into a mixture with a 25 percent solution of ammonia. The black solution of iron vapor or infusion for 5-6 days of iron sawdust in vinegar.

The decoction of the rhizomes of the shamery of the scented (Asperula Odo-Rata) stains in a red lamp and aspen. Red and brown gives a decoction of onion husk, brown-hangwood walnuts. These dyes and brighter chemicals, and more stable.

It is necessary to remember that the wood is better saved with constant moisture mode. Therefore, dry products should always be kept dry, and bulk - filled liquid. And those and others can not be put directly to the Earth. It is better to substitute a brick or a packer under the barrel than subsequently get rid of rot, cut the ultrasounds.

But no matter how much the barrel made by their own hands, all this time it will be the owner of a pleasant reminder of overcome difficulties in comprehending the secrets of the ancient Crafts of Bondar.

© Ready barrels in the photo

Instruction

First of all, select wood, depending on your purpose. For storage of honey, linden, aspen, poplar, vehicle, alder are suitable for storage. For salting, quay or urine is best suited. For other needs, they use beech, spruce, fir, pine, cedar, larch or birch.

Billets or rivets are made of raw wood, from the bottom of the trunk. Chock, which is a longer than the future riveting on 5-6 cm, radially split on a blank 5-10 cm wide (for the donon 15 cm) and a thickness of 2.5-3 cm. Then lay the blanks for a month or more indoor with natural ventilation for drying .

Dried billets Treat the tires and the plane, first from the outside, checking the curvature by the template taken from the finished product. Then we treat the side surfaces by Fugansky, as taking into account the curvature on the pattern, and internal, to reduce thickness in the middle - ax.
For the taper of the tub and bulgebly, the magnitude of the riveting extensions has a ratio of 1.7-1.8 between the widest and narrow part. For the pipe wider the bottom end, for the barrel - the middle of the riveting.

For the manufacture of the hoop, take a hot-rolled steel tape with a thickness of 1.6-2 mm and a width of 30-50 mm. To calculate the length of the future wrap, to the sizes of the barrel on the site of the screed, add a double bandwidth. Bend the ribbon into the ring, run or drill the holes and scroll with a soft steel wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm.
One edge of each wrap is fragmented by a hammer on anvil. At the place of location on the barrel, the hoops are called: the central - "onion", the extreme - "arsenic", intermediate - "cervical".

Collect on a flat surface, pouring two rivets against the helm of the brackets against a friend. Then, in turn insert the following rivets, collecting the first half of the barrel, and also the second half. Crawling with a hammer, hesitate the hoop to a dense joint of riveting edges.
If the gap remains, in which the last riveting is not climbing, do not be afraid to pull it up to the desired width, or remove another narrow riveting and insert wide.

Hang the ends of the island with a hammer, put on the onion hoop and until the stop stops it with the helproom. Having exhibit the foundation exactly, pull the other edge of the island of the rope loop with the lever. Having scored the second helical hoop, allege the ends of rivets by Rovenkom-Gorbsch, 2-3 mm from the hoop.
From one edge of the island, make a depth and width of 3 mm with the help of the inside, in which subsequently insert the bottom.

Come on the bottom of the boobs that fitted around the edges of the boobs, after which do trust in advance drawn circle. Paste the bottom after somewhat weaken the helical hoop, adjusting the density of entry and pressing the hammer with light blows. The second bottom of the other side is also inserted, with the only difference that in it first the bulk hole with a diameter of 30-32 mm is drilled, to which the plug is adjusted.

If you are manufacturing your own wine, pickles, then you know that it is better to contain a wooden barrel. After all, made of wood, it becomes one of the main points in the recipe, it is an environmentally friendly raw material, which retains the taste and beneficial properties of products. In addition, a alcohol contained in wines or moonshine when interacting with tanks made of synthetic materials: plastic, Capron can dissolve them and interaction products are mixed with a drink.

It is not difficult to purchase barrel for your winemaking or suping, but if you want to save or love to do everything yourself, then you should explore the technique of making an oak barrel with your own hands. This process takes a lot of time and strength, but with our advice you will see that it is not so difficult to make a barrel with your own hands, even those who have never been engaged in it.

The manufacture of barrels from the tree is called the "Bondar Business", and the master who is engaged in this work - Bondar. This is a whole art that originated in ancient Greece and popular so far. The technology has not changed for thousands of years, tested by time and is not as difficult in sales, as will appear at first glance. But how to make a barrel in modern conditions?

Choose wood

First of all, of course, select the material from which you are going to produce your future barrel. We will offer you the main varieties of wood that prefers Bondari, tell me what their positive and negative sides are, as well as help you choose the most suitable option for you.

Oak

Of course, the first thing should be told about the manufacture of barrels from oak. This wood rightly deserves the title of classical material used by the masters of a cooler case. With high strength, flexibility, this tree contains "tanning substances", which act as an antiseptic. Moisture acting on the walls of such a barrel makes them stronger. Therefore, the lifetime of the oak barrels is measured not even dozens, but hundreds of years. With drinks stored in such a barrel, oxidation processes and interaction with wood and they acquire a pleasant fragrance with a shade of Vanilla.

Fur tree, pine tree

These varieties of wood are also used as a material for the manufacture of barrels. They are soft, it is easier to handle and cut, but oak and many other breeds are inferior. Their minus is the smell of resin, which is why this type of wood is rarely used as a material for barrels.

Cedar

From representatives of coniferous varieties of Bondari prefer to him, especially in those places where his natural habitat is located. According to the properties, it looks like a pine or spruce, but the smell does not have such kegs. They are well suited for food storage, especially for dairy.

Linden

This variety of wood is fibrous, perfectly cuts out and processed. Strong material, does not succumb to drying, does not smell. Linden barrels are recognized as the best for storing and transporting honey, caviar, pickles.

Aspen

This is a cheap, but long-term material, it is strong, resistant to humidity, has the properties of the antiseptic. Osin recognized the ideal for salting and storage of vegetables. The peculiarity of this variety is that it swells greatly, but for the bondar it is rather plus, because thanks to this, the rivets are tightly closed.

We make rivets

So, you have decided on the variety of wood, let's say, it will be an oak. Now we make the parts of the barrels, start with rivets. These are escaped along the edges or rectangular boards (saw or brushed). The second won by strength due to the structure of the fibers, which when splitting is not subjected to destruction.

Shape riveting depending on the type of barrel

To determine the exact number of such rivets, do the following:

• Determine the necessary barrel parameters
• Make drawings of your design
• Create sketches of rivets and bottoms of natural sizes

After these procedures, perform simple calculations, allowing not to be calculated with how much rivets need. It is calculated by the formula: 2 * PI * R / W, where:

• Pi - permanent value 3.14
• P is the bottom radius (if the parties are equal) or the middle (if the sides are convex)
• Sh - the size of the width of the riveting

Dimensions of barrels depending on the volume

A lot of time and work will go to the manufacture of brine rivets, here you need certain skills. The main thing is that it is necessary to do is split the workpiece so that fragments with a smooth surface are obtained.

Spacer Space Pallena

Two main ways to split:

• Radially (the split passes through the core of the decks, which requires smaller costs)
• Tangental (does not affect the core, we do not recommend using when processing hardwood wood, it makes the process slower and difficult)

The easiest to process the raw material is best - fresh. If you want to use ready-made boards, see what the annual rings walked along their plane, without fought.

After the workpiece you need to dry, in summer, in the air, under a canopy, this period will be from 3 months. For artificial drying, the following method is used:

1. Glue
2. Put in the oven
3. Leave there for a day

Ready for riveting for barrel

Billets are now ready for further work.

We make hoop

Another detail is the hoop. It helps to connect all the rivets by creating a single whole, a stainless steel is used for the manufacture of hoop.

Modern barrels have three hoops:

• Bucks (closer to the center)
• Uther (closer to the edge)
• Cervical (if the barrel is large, additionally put between the first two)

The size of the hoop depends on the capacity (thickness * width):

• Up to 25 l - 1.6mm * 3cm
• 25 - 50 l - 1.6mm * 3.6 cm
• Up to 100 l - 1.6mm * 4-4.5 cm
• 120 l and more - 1.8 * 5cm

Stainless steel hoops for barrel

You will need temporary metal hoops that are manufactured according to the following algorithm:

1. Cut the required steel strip from the steel sheet
2. At the ends of the strips, make holes that make rivets

We collect barrel

Now we approached the main stage - the collecting barrel consisting of rivets, which are first interconnected, and then constant hoops.

Treat the tool - grinding, cut the uneven ends, drill the plug hole.

Check out the video as the oak barrel is manufactured.

Repair of oak barrel

You have an old barrel that you do not use because it fumbled, it flows or for any other reason, it is not suitable for a look at the video as repairs is done.

Second part of the video If the barrel flows

Barrel in our time not only carries a practical function. Today, for storing liquids or something else, they are used in warehouses, in the wine cellars and so on. In decorative purposes, they began to be manufactured relatively recently. With a skillful processing, they can be used to decorate the garden plot, as well as in the form of furniture: chairs, tables, bar racks, etc.

Even the exhausted types of barrel can be restored and not used. For this, of course, you need a fair share of fantasy. It is also necessary to take into account her condition so that the material is not too rugging from time to time, otherwise all efforts will come to not at the first time of its operation. Ideas, how to turn such a container into something more functional or beautiful, in fact, quite a few. For example, in the garden you can smash the mini-flower, and in several levels. Or make an interesting table or bench. In them, you can even organize a fountain, it only exists long if the wood does not proceed correctly: under the influence of water, it can quickly lose both the aesthetics of its type and strength. Some craftsmen fit the barrel under the washbasin: for this, the sink is inserted into the upper part, and the pipe is installed inside the barrel.

How to make a barrel from the tree do it yourself

Before making the manufacture of barrels with your own hands, you need to decide on the material. Usually for this purpose use? Barrel do it yourself

Before mounting the barrel, you must first make the frets. It is wooden planks that are cut from the tree trunk. They can also be done with a splitting of wooden chumbs. The sawn, as a rule, stronger than koloti because it is not always possible to split the log correctly, and because of this, part of the strength may be lost.

It has been published to fasten the Lada into a single design with the help of metal hoops that are made of durable sheet steel. To make a barrel even more durable, you can additionally nail them. The amount of hoop depends on the height of the barrel, but, as a rule, their at least three.

The last stage is the installation of the bottom. After it is installed on the owl, the hoop dresses for fixing, which is also additionally nailed for greater durability.

How to make bar houses from old wooden barrel

In fact, there are a lot of options for mini bars from the barrel. It can also be an option with a front door, and open from above, and with an open inner space with shelves for storing drinks. What exactly is considered the best - it's hard to say. It all depends on taste preferences.

Before proceeding to the manufacture of the bar from the bar, it is necessary to clean the old wood. It is necessary to do it inside and outside. Before that, you need to remove all the hoops, besides the bottom. They dress later enough simply, but to promote them down to the desired level with a hammer. Then they align the edges that from the bottom side, that on the other hand. One part is still open. Further, the hoops are processed by a special composition so that the metal will not be covered with rust. If the front opening is needed, check the place of its location and drink.

Bondar craft is one of the most difficult, so the answer to the question, how to make a barrel do it yourself, it will also be difficult. This is a very time-consuming process that requires a decent professional professionally about the level and presence of a large number of wood processing tools.

Types of barrels for appointment and wood for their manufacture

Before interested, how to make a barrelYou should decide why you need it. This depends on the choice of material and method of manufacturing. This type of container is manufactured for the following purposes:

1. For fermentation, excerpts and storage of strong alcoholic beverages, wines and beers;
2. For the preparation and storage of pickles;
3. For storing dry products;
4. For storage honey, etc.

Beverage barrels have two bottom and hole to insert the cranes. The same type of container, but without holes were previously used for long-term storage of some products (for example, Solonins).

For other purposes, there are enough barrels with one bottom - they are also called ads. From above, they are covered with a lid or a circle for the neot. Make these details are much easier than the bottom. Make a wooden barrelit is possible from such wood wood as:

1. Oak;
2. Ash;
3. Cherry;
4. linden;
5. alder and others.

The wood of the first three species is the most versatile. It is equally suitable for the container of any purpose. However, the "champion" should recognize the oak barrel, which, being durable, reliable and durable, provides ideal conditions for storing products.

Products from oak have antiseptic properties, healed tanning substances into alcoholic beverages, improving their taste, and also easily withstand the impact of brimorrows during the billet. The ash and cherry are the first "deputies" of oak wood. They possess similar, but more weak properties. Therefore, we will look at. Production of containers from other wood breeds, such as linden, has no fundamental differences with the exception of the nuances of the finish finish.

Rules for barrels

Before you start doing wooden barrel do it yourself, It is necessary to prepare and prepare high-quality material. Wood should be mature, healthy, not to have vices (bitch, cososal)

The best time for the material workpiece is the late autumn or winter, when the natural moisture of wood is at a minimum level.

Observe all the requirements you can hardly succeed. For example, for the manufacture of clamps of wine-making and brandy barrels of the highest category of quality, the process of drying and excerpts of wood takes 6-8 years, but if you are concerned only how to make a barrel For yourself, follow next rules:

1. Before drying, the churbaks split on the workpiece of the desired thickness;
2. The drying is performed in a location closed from direct sunlight - under a canopy, in Saraj, etc.;
3. The continuation of the drying depends on many factors and may take 1-3 months;
4. the residual moisture of wood before processing should be about 25%.

Accelerating the drying process using hot air and other methods usually leads to a deterioration in the quality of wood and its properties in the finished product. Tips, also take into account the need to exist treated claps before assembling the product. As a result, the residual moisture of wood should be 17-20%.

Making rivets and tools for this

For those who wish make a oak barrel The most difficult will be the manufacture of claps. The process of marking and slices of chumbachs is clearly represented in the following figure.

As a result, you will get the billets of the conical section, of which a clutter make after drying. This detail has a difficult form, so its manufacture makes high demands on the artist's skill. The main sizes of the barrel and its elements, depending on the volume, have the following form:

This table will help to figure out how to make a barrel, and drawing - to understand how to give claps the right form

and what tools you need for this. The curvature of the side of the sides should provide a barrel of taper of about 8 °, so that the product is resistant to loads from the outside and from the inside. For the surfaces of the surfaces of claps use the plans, Fuganok, the Balcel, the session, and other tools of this group. In this case, the outer surface of the part should have a slightly convex, and the internal - concave form.

Accuracy and wiring quality are regularly checked by the template. To calculate the number of claps, the greatest length of the circle (centered barrel) is divided into the width of the blanks. Thus, you also define the exact and single size of the part. The process of making cocks can be viewed on the video.

After that, the answer to the question about how to make an oak barrel do it yourselfwill become clearer because you will cope with the most difficult task.

Production of bottom shields and tools for this

For the manufacture of bottom shields, 4-6 slims are used, interconnected with studs of wood or stainless steel. Drawings, or, more precisely, the instruction, this process is given here.

But at first we will limit ourselves to the connection of association, since the remaining operations are carried out taking into account the size of the collected barrel housing. We will remain to do the following:

1. draw a circle on the shield: its diameter must correspond to the size of the bottom part of the barrel, to which the double depth of the aftic groove is added (it is 6 mm);
2. perform control over the contour using an arctic saw or filming knife;
3. remove the chamfers throughout the circumference in order to go into a helical groove.

Similarly (with a correction for a larger or smaller diameter), a lid and a circle for the neot are made. If you intend do it yourself barrel For beverages, which should be remembered that such products are manufactured by individual measurements for top and bottom. You will see the result of your effort only after you collect all the details into one. Building barrel - the most pleasant stage of its manufacture. About how this process is carried out, we will tell below.

Procedure for assembling barrels

The following information about how to make a barrelwill be recommendations on its assembly. For this, except for wood details, you will need metal hoops - assembly and constant. The first of them serves to set and fix the full island. Permanent hoops are divided into outer and cervical (piping). They provide grinding clamps. To make a wooden barrelfrom the existing set of details, you will need to perform the following operations:

1. using clamps on the assembly hoop to fix two, and better three clans;
2. The space between them is filled with the remaining details;
3. from the recorded side, put on the neck hoop;
4. The fascinated side of the island to displeps and pull the clans using the gate (leak), after which it is on this side of the island to wear a helical and cervical hoop;
5. from the side of the assembly hoop, cut a helical groove to install the bottom;
6. Cut and process the first bottom, then put it in place;
7. On the same side, install a helical hoop, which is finally fixed by the bottom;
8. Make finishing processing of the inner and outer surface of the barrel case;
9. Carry out hardened (firing) from the inside;
10. Repeat the bottom installation operation from the opposite side.

The initial assembly stage can be viewed on video

.

Another video

will give an idea of \u200b\u200bsubsequent operations. However, in this case, it should be amended that professionals work here who have their own techniques and many actions perform automatically. Perhaps not everything will turn out the first time, but how to make an oak barrelYou will definitely learn.

For barrels, four hoops are used for the barrels, for a more roomy package, their number is increased to six. They make them from the steel strip width of 30-50 and a thickness of 1.5-2 mm. The diameter of the hoop is determined by measuring the location of its installation on the body of the product. A double bandwidth is added to the value. This is necessary for connecting the strip into the ring using a row from the forging steel wire with a cross section of 4-5 mm.

Answering the question how to make a barrelIt is necessary to mention that the collapse is required at one edge inside the hoop. This gives it the necessary taper for dense adjacent to the cloaks of the island when putting on and placing. A slicing of a helical groove is performed using a special tool that on professional slang is called a sprue. The procedure for something resembles the opening of the round canning can.

In the article about how to make a barrel, It is impossible not to mention the hardening of the product. Most often, this is achieved by firing. Thereby ensures an increased durability of wood to moisture, organic acids and other effects. It is most convenient to do the firing of the case without the bottom with the burner type of portable horn

Cutting surface treatment, drilling holes for cranes (choppers) are made before firing.

Check barrel and its preparation for use

Our advice on how to make a wooden barrel do it yourselfCompletes information on how to check its tightness and prepare a product for use. To search for leaks, the barrel is filled with water. If within an hour after filling it still proceeds, you will have to take action on its sealing. To do this, there is a proven "Dedovsky" method using Rhoze, which is also called a jarry grass. They careated the places of leaks. Another method of sealing is a fascination with natural wax.

Each wizard has their own answers to the question, how to make a barrel, and many professional secrets, for the disclosure of which would have to write a whole monograph. Therefore, you will have to ask for help from the most different nuances of the process of manufacturing barrels. By the way, the literary hero Robinson Crusoe could not cope with this task. When you achieve the tightness of the product, it will only stay to prepare a barrel to use.

Answering the question how to make an oak barrelIt should also provide recommendations for its soaking. Most often, this is done with the help of ordinary water. The procedure takes up to 10 days with a change of fluid every two or three days. However, for barrels intended for spirits, the soaking continues from one month to six months using alcohol-containing liquids with a fortress of 18-55%. In this article, we tried to answer the main questions regarding how to make a barrel. We hope that this information will be useful for you.