Staircase to the second floor in a private house: modern ideas. Stairs to the second floor in a private house: photos and practical tips Stairs to the second floor in a wooden house

A properly designed swinging staircase will perfectly complement the interior.

Any private house with more than one floor forces its owner to erect an interfloor staircase. It is quite possible for an experienced construction owner to make it with his own hands. But it should be borne in mind that it is better to think about the construction in advance - even before the construction of the house, at the stage of its design.

Complex staircases are obtained due to an elementary lack of space. The owners in such cases make a choice in favor of a spiral staircase or a mid-flight with a turn. You can achieve success in the construction of an interfloor staircase if you correctly calculate the entire staircase structure and plan the process of its construction. But to consult a specialist, for example, about the permissible load on the ladder, of course, is worth it.

What type of design to choose

First of all, you need to decide on the purpose and frequency of its use. In some cases, the preferred option is a lightweight folding design that does not have turns and is not designed for heavy loads. For example, when the 2nd floor is an attic (or even an attic), it is unlikely that there will be a need to move large and heavy objects there. The number of people regularly ascending to such a floor will also be small.

In some cases, such a staircase will be appropriate.

The most common and easiest to manufacture design connecting the second floor to the first is the flight of stairs. It is not only convenient, but also safe, and this is important if children and people of advanced age will use the stairs. In addition, with a well-made flight of stairs, you can easily raise large items to the upper floor and lower back - furniture, for example, or building materials. It’s easier to erect a marching staircase with your own hands. It is usually built of wood or metal.

The flight of stairs is not only very convenient, it is also very simple to construct on your own.

The stairs to the second floor are often done in several marches. The reason for this decision is the need to fit the design into a limited space, while maintaining the correct angle.

Important!
If you make the stairs too steep, using it will be uncomfortable.

Swivel ladder with a convenient angle of inclination of marches.

What is the use of drawing

The homeowner has every right to do everything at his discretion - to choose the height and width of the structure, build it from wood or metal parts, do all the work yourself or hire specialists, make a choice in favor of a particular configuration. But still, it is worthwhile to carefully observe the observance of certain parameters of the stairs. To make it safe and comfortable, you must first of all maintain the correct ratio of the height and depth of the steps, because it is these dimensions that determine the slope of the entire structure.

Non-standard steps can and will give your staircase an original look, but it will not be very comfortable to use it.

In any case, drawing up a drawing of the future staircase will allow you to take into account all the subtleties of the structure connecting the first floor to the second, which will significantly reduce the likelihood of errors. Even fitting parts, most likely, will not be needed if the drawing is done properly (which, incidentally, is not so difficult). Another positive point is the ability to accurately calculate the amount of material required to make a staircase.

Even such a simple drawing will allow you to avoid a lot of mistakes.

main parameters

The drawing should begin with a floor plan. It includes doors, windows, furniture and other possible obstacles. It is advisable to take further design steps only after familiarizing yourself with existing building codes regarding staircases. Here is a list of the most basic:

The slope of the stairs should not exceed 45 °.
The minimum march width is 0.9 m.
The maximum riser height is 20 cm.
The depth of the step is not less than 25 cm.
Fencing (railing height) - 0.9 m.

In addition, all steps should be the same in height, otherwise walking up the stairs will be uncomfortable. An exception may be only the first and last steps. Sometimes calculations so require, and sometimes the first step is done in the form of a platform in front of the stairs.

It is noteworthy that different march widths within the same staircase are allowed.

Man's average step

The convenience of the stairs will also depend on the magnitude of the person’s step in the calculations. The average human height is in the range of 160–180 cm, the step corresponding to this growth is 60–64 cm.

The foot length is also taken into account. It is assumed here that the walking person feels safe when 70% of his foot is on the supporting surface. Again, based on average values, the step depth is selected from the range of 25–30 cm. There is a formula linking three parameters: 2h + d ≈ 60–64 cm, where 2h is the double riser height, d is the tread depth, and the sum of these numbers should give the value of the average human step. It is worth noting that this formula is not a "panacea"; therefore, one should not take it as a prerequisite.

An alternative way to calculate the stairs Part 1

An alternative way to calculate the stairs Part 2

How difficult is drawing

To draw a diagram of a direct march, school knowledge from the course of geometry will be enough. You can do it yourself. But before you put the drawing of a future staircase on the floor plan, you need to calculate all its parameters. To do this, use the following instructions:

The number of steps is calculated - the height of the room is divided by the height of one step. In this case, the overlap should be taken into account, that is, the distance from the floor of the 1st floor to the floor of the 2nd is taken.
Then you need to determine the length of the structure, for this the depth of the tread is multiplied by the number of steps. If the length is known or there are serious restrictions on its size, then they do the opposite - calculate the depth of the tread based on the length of the march: divide the estimated length by the number of steps.
Make the necessary adjustments to make the design convenient and fit into the interior of the room.
The area of \u200b\u200bthe staircase structure is calculated: the march width is multiplied by its length.
The lengths of support beams (bowstring or kosour) are also required. The Pythagorean theorem is used for calculation - the height of the staircase structure and its projection onto the horizontal axis act as legs. The square root of the sum of the squares of these sizes will give the hypotenuse - the desired length.
The obtained values \u200b\u200bare entered into the drawing.

Stair turn

Now the most important thing is to first calculate the parameters of the turning part, and only then take up the marches. Here you need more knowledge than in the case of simple stairs and without a well-designed drawing it will be difficult to figure it out. Drawings made by professionals can serve as a good example for beginners. It should also be borne in mind that calculations are often a process of successive approximation, that is, it is not always possible to immediately get to the same dimensions, you have to step by step refine the individual parameters.

The drawing should display the staircase in three projections.

How is the rotation done? Two options are possible - span or cross-country steps. The first option is simpler, you can do it yourself. In addition, it is more convenient to use the site, but you need space.

Designs are distinguished by ease of use and design complexity.

The second option is used for lack of space. The calculations in this case are more complicated - you will have to try to make the staircase comfortable and safe. The following methods are used to calculate running stages:

proportional;
danish;
line rotation method;
sweep method.

We draw cross-country steps.

Important!
When using runaway steps, it is necessary to control their depth on the line of movement - it should not be less than 20 cm.

As a rule, the depth of the treads of the runway steps is increased by creating an inlet of 3-4 cm. It is undesirable to exceed this value, since the descent can become uncomfortable and even dangerous. When there is not enough space for a full-fledged staging of the foot, a person can slip, which will lead to injuries. Climbing such steps is also inconvenient - the sock will constantly cling to an overly large lap.

180 ° swivel design requires a certain distance between marches. A value of 75 mm is the minimum acceptable for this gap.

Creating rungs for a swing ladder

Ready options

Not all owners of private houses have a desire and time to make drawings and do construction work with their own hands. Especially when there are very good options for finished staircases assembled from modules. A variety of modifications are available - straight, screw, curved. Some are assembled from wooden elements, others from metal. And all this is not more complicated than a children's designer - it takes a few hours to spend. The height and width of the parts are easily adjustable, making it possible to fit the stairs into the interior and provide access to the upper floor as soon as possible. A variety of style solutions will allow you to find the right option for any environment.

Modern modular stairs can be very stylish and, at the same time, easy to assemble.

It is also worth paying attention to specialized software designed for calculating various parameters - SolidWorks, StairDesigner and others. With such tools, building a complex structure with your own hands will be possible even for someone who has not dealt with drawings. In addition, for the design of simple designs, there are free online services, that is, anyone can try their hand at designing without installing additional software on their computer.

Designing stairs in the Compass program (simple option)

Designing stairs in AutoCAD (complex version)

The construction of the stairs in the house is a difficult process, but feasible. The main difficulty lies in calculating the angle of inclination and the span parameters, because not only ease of use, but also the durability of the structure depends on this. A durable and beautiful staircase to the second floor with your own hands is an opportunity to test your strength and gain experience for further home improvement.

First you need to determine the type of stairs in order to correctly make the calculations. The most commonly used stairs in a house are wood, concrete and metal; by configuration, they are straight, rotary and screw. There are combined designs of varying complexity.

Concrete products require a very strong foundation and a lot of time for manufacturing, but at the same time they are the most durable and durable. Installation of metal structures will not be difficult for those who know how to use welding, and a wooden staircase can be made by anyone who is familiar with the technology of this process in detail.

A direct flight of stairs to the second floor is considered the easiest to install; it consists of a small number of parts, it takes up little space, does not require complex calculations. Screw constructions are used where there is little free space; They look very elegant, but not always convenient in operation. Raising something dimensional and heavy on such steps will be problematic. Buildings from several spans are more difficult to build, but they are ideal for houses where there is a large distance between floors.

Simple wooden staircase

The single-flight staircase consists of kosour, railings, treads and risers. The tread is called the horizontal part of the step, the riser is the vertical. Kosoures are structural load-bearing elements with special cutouts for attaching steps along the upper edge. Instead of kosour, bowstrings are often used - bearing beams with grooves for steps. Risers and railings are not required elements, but for convenience and safety it is better when they are present.

The height of the stairs is equal to the distance between floors plus the thickness of the floors. To simplify the calculation of the span and base length, you first need to determine the parameters of the steps. If elderly people and children live in the house, the optimal step height is 15 cm, for the rest it will be more convenient to have a height of 20 cm. Making risers even higher is not recommended, since the climb will be too steep and less comfortable.

The width of the steps is 20-30 cm, and here a lot depends on how much space can be reserved for the stairs. The wider the steps, the more space the structure occupies. When suitable sizes are selected, the number of steps and the length of the base can be calculated. To do this, divide the height of the stairs by the height of the riser, the resulting value is rounded to the nearest whole number, and then multiplied by the depth of the tread. For example, if the total height is 3 m and the riser is 20 cm, 15 steps are required:

3000:200=15

With a step width of 25 cm, the length of the base is 15x250 \u003d 3750 mm.

Manufacturing technology

When the calculations are made, you can begin to manufacture the elements of the stairs. Kosoures need very dense hard wood, because they must not only support the weight of the structure, but also people. A template is cut out of thick cardboard on which the cutouts correspond to the size of the steps, and the slope is equal to the angle of inclination of the stairs. At the ends of the kosour, grooves are cut out for fastening to the base and the upper floors, after which markings are made according to the template.

For further work you will need:

jigsaw;
grinder;
building level;
anchor bolts;
drill;
hammer.

Electric jigsaws on the kosoura make markings on the marking, then they are treated on both sides with a grinder. Holes for fasteners are cut in the floor beams or metal supports are installed. On the floor of the first floor along the location line of the lower step, a support beam is installed and fixed with anchor bolts. After that, the kosour is installed, be sure to check the angle of inclination with the help of a level. At the bottom and top, the braids are fixed with anchor bolts.

The next step is the manufacture of steps. To do this, take dry boards with a thickness of 36 mm; their width should be equal to the width of the steps or be slightly larger. For risers, you can use boards with a thickness of 20 mm. The length of the workpieces should correspond to the width of the stairs - from 80 cm to 1.2 m.

After trimming, each workpiece must be sanded to remove sharp cuts and bumps. The process of installing the steps is very simple: the lower cutouts of the kosour are smeared with carpentry glue and apply risers, aligning along the edges. Fix them with screws and stack on top of the steps. Glue is needed to prevent the wooden elements from creaking under load.

Having laid all the steps one by one, they begin to install the railing. The railing consists of balusters and handrails; for the manufacture of balusters using square beam or curly blanks of wood. Balusters are installed either at each step, or through one, depending on the slope and the span. As fasteners, self-tapping screws are used, which are often closed with special plugs for beauty. If the staircase to the second floor is located in the center of the room, the railing can be installed on both sides.

The finished structure is again ground and treated with an antiseptic primer. After this, you need to cover the tree with varnish, paint or another composition that does not form too smooth a surface. If the steps are roughened, this will increase their safety for households. The coating is applied in 2 or 3 layers, with each layer having to completely dry before applying the next.

In a spacious house with concrete floors on the second floor, you can make a staircase of concrete. Most often, two types of structures are mounted in houses - monolithic and combined, in which only the kosour is concrete. The second option looks more attractive and elegant. For the manufacture of concrete stairs, formwork and a very strong foundation are required.

In the process of work you will need:

edged board covered with foil or waterproof plywood;
strong bar 100x100 mm;
knitting wire and fittings;
self-tapping screws;
concrete mortar.

Formwork boards are selected with a thickness of 3 cm, the thickness of plywood should not be less than 18 mm. All dimensions are calculated in the same way as for a wooden staircase, but the base should be as strong as possible. They begin with the assembly of the formwork: boards or plywood are knocked down according to the drawing, observing the angle of inclination and avoiding the formation of cracks.

Finished formwork is installed between floors and fixed with the help of wooden bars. After that, reinforcement is laid out inside the frame, connecting the transverse rods with wire. At the places of installation of the railing, corks from wood are fixed, and then the formwork is poured with the finished solution. You need to fill the frame immediately, otherwise the solidity of the base will be violated.

When the concrete sets well, the formwork is removed and the surface of the steps is periodically moistened to avoid cracking. You can start finishing only after the concrete has completely dried and hardened. For the manufacture of a combined staircase, the filling of the kosour is done in the same way, but the formwork is done much narrower and taking into account the installation of the steps.

To finish the monolithic structure, wood, stone, tile and other materials are used. When facing, the weight of the material should be taken into account, because tile and stone have a greater load on the base than wood panels. Any steps can be attached to the concrete kosour; such a base is especially well combined with a tree.

For the manufacture and installation of a straight metal staircase to the second floor you will need:

steel channel number 10;
metal corners;
welding machine;
sheet metal;
file and grinder with a nozzle for grinding.

The channel is cut into pieces and a frame is assembled from them according to the size of the stairs. Corners are welded to the side faces of the frame at equal intervals equal to the height of the step. All corners should be parallel to each other. To make it easier to install the design, the steps are welded after mounting and fixing the frame.

The upper ends of the frame are securely fixed with anchor bolts to the overlap of the second floor, the lower are fixed on the floor. Next, steps from sheet iron are welded and the railing is attached. Upon completion of assembly, the joints are ground with a nozzle or filed, and then coated with a corrosion-resistant primer.

This design takes up little space and looks more decorative. At a height of 2.5 m, you will need to do about 15-17 steps; the diameter of the base will be about 2 m. The most common way of installing spiral staircases is to string the trapezoidal or triangular steps onto the central axis. The narrow part has a width of 15 cm, the wide is 30-35 cm.

To independently make a spiral staircase, you will need:

steel pipe with a diameter of 50 mm;
pipe with a diameter of 55 mm;
wooden slats for the template;
corners for steps;
welding machine;
file;
primer.

A pipe of a smaller diameter is the central pillar, so its length should correspond to the distance between the first and second floors. For greater stability of the structure, it is recommended to concrete up the stand at the base, having previously set it vertically. A pipe of larger diameter is cut into cylinders about 25 cm long. Slices must be performed strictly perpendicular, otherwise the steps will not be possible to align horizontally.

It is very important that the cylinders fit tightly on the central tube and do not form backlash. If tight joining does not occur, rings will be required — tighten.

For the manufacture of steps it is convenient to use a template of rails. Wooden slats are glued together so that the corners enclosed in the frame form a step of the given parameters.

Each step is welded to its cylinder and carefully sanded. After manufacturing all the elements, you can proceed to the assembly of the structure. The steps are put on the axial tube, set the angle and tightly welded to the axis.

The final stage is the fastening of the railing and the finish. The railing can consist of fittings, chrome tubes, a thin profile; the forged railing looks very elegant. All metal surfaces are necessarily ground and primed, painted.

In a similar manner, a spiral staircase is assembled on the second floor from wooden steps. Wood blanks are made in the form of a trapezoid, in the narrow part of which a hole with a diameter of 50 mm is drilled. Using special gaskets, the steps strung on the axis are fixed on the central pillar. Next, the railing is installed, the tree is primed and painted, decorated with decor.

Video - How to make a staircase to the second floor

Video - DIY wooden staircase

Building a staircase to the second floor is a rather complicated procedure, but if you have experience and good step-by-step guidance, you can easily cope on your own. The main difficulty in this case is that the span dimensions and the angle of inclination of the structure must be calculated with extreme accuracy, since this is how much depends on the durability of the structure and the convenience of its operation. A reliable and aesthetically attractive staircase is a great chance to test yourself and gain valuable experience for subsequent work in your private home.

First, it’s worth deciding which role your staircase should play in the overall interior. Such a design can serve as a decorative element or be invisible; moreover, a staircase can become a central element of the whole design, according to which the whole room will be decorated. But before choosing a specific option and starting production directly, it is necessary to find out how such a staircase is generally arranged, and determine its required dimensions.

Construction - what are the interfloor stairs

And they consist of a large number of structural elements. One definitely cannot do without one, while the others, on the contrary, may be absent in some variations of the described construction.

To begin with, steps must be present in the structure without fail, as well as supports supporting them - these are the main elements of any interfloor structure of this type. The step itself is an element consisting of two parts perpendicular to each other. In professional language, from the approach and the riser. The latter, by the way, serves as a kind of support for the approaches, but one can often do without it.

As for the supports, they can be of two types:

kosour (this is a special beam that supports steps from the bottom);
bowstring (a similar beam for steps, only it supports them at the ends).

The next structural element is the railing. They are extremely important, even if they are far from all types of construction. And if you have elderly relatives or children living in your house, certainly no way without a railing.

Finally, balusters are special vertical supports under the railing, often necessary not only for practicality, but also for decoration. For balusters, various materials can be used, and the shape of the elements is also different.

Note! Due to the wide variety of stairs, they can meet such details that are required exclusively for this design. Get acquainted with them.

Bolts. They mean special bolts designed to support the steps. They can be attached both to them and to the walls themselves. They are not used often, but only for some versions of the stairs.
Racks. Such elements are used in the construction of spiral staircases. Steps having a special shape and forming a spiral are attached to one such rack with an appropriate step, which rises to the second floor from the first.

Which version of the stairs to the second floor to choose for the house?

So, first we determine which ladder we need, and make the appropriate calculations. As a rule, in private houses there are metal, concrete and wooden stairs.

By their design, they can all be:

screw;
rotary;
straight.

There are also, by the way, combined options that have varying degrees of difficulty, but we will not dwell on them.

Concrete staircases require a very solid foundation, and the construction itself takes a lot of time, however, finished structures turn out to be very durable and strong. Installing a ladder made of metal is nothing complicated, but provided that you know how to work with the welding machine. But everyone can build a wooden structure, if you familiarize yourself with the algorithm of such a process.

The simplest marching construction is considered to be the simplest in construction - it’s not a very difficult staircase to the second floor with your own hands. It is compact enough, does not include too many details, and complex calculations in this case are not required. If free space is limited, then the best option is a spiral staircase, which may look elegant, but it’s far from always convenient to use. For example, it will be difficult for you to lift something heavy or dimensional on it. Structures that consist of several spans are more difficult to install, but they are the most suitable option for buildings with large distances between floors.

Do-it-yourself staircase to the second floor made of wood

This design consists of the following elements:

kosour;
risers;
tread;
railings.

We have already figured out what each of these elements is, so we immediately turn to the main thing.

So, the height of a single-flight staircase to the second floor should be the same as the distance between floors + floors. To simplify the calculation, it is first necessary to determine the dimensions of the steps themselves. If you live with children or elderly relatives, then it is advisable that the steps be 15 centimeters in height, in other cases, this height can be 20 centimeters. It is undesirable to exceed the last value, since the rise will turn out steeper, and it will not be so convenient to rise.

As for the width of the steps, it should vary from 20 to 30 centimeters - the specific value depends on how much free space is allocated for the staircase structure. After all, the wider the steps, the more space will be required. Choose the required dimensions, proceed to calculate the length of the base and the number of steps. Take the total height of the entire structure and divide by the height of one riser, and the number that you get, round to the whole and multiply by the depth of the tread. For example, the whole staircase to the second floor with your own hands will have a height of 300 centimeters, and the height of each riser will be 20 centimeters.

It will take 15 steps because:

300:20=15

And if the width of each step will be 25 centimeters, then the base should be 37.5 centimeters in length (15x25 \u003d 37.5).

Step-by-step instructions for the manufacture of stairs to the second floor

Having finished with the calculations, begin to make all the necessary structural elements. Kosoures need to be made of solid and dense wood, since they will account for both the weight of people and the weight of the entire staircase. Cut the template out of thick cardboard, making cutouts corresponding to the dimensions of the steps, the slope should be the same as the angle of inclination of the stairs. Cut out the grooves at the ends of the kosour, through which they will be attached to the overlap and base, and then mark out in accordance with a previously made pattern.

To cope with subsequent work, you must prepare:

electric jigsaw;
hammer;
grinding machine;
drill;
level;
and finally anchor bolts.

Take a jigsaw and use it to protrude on the kosoura according to the markings, and then carefully grind both sides. Next, cut out the mounting holes in the joists or, as an option, install metal supports. In the place where the first step will be located on the first floor, install the support bar, fixing it with anchor bolts. Then set the kosour, without fail checking the slope through the level. Fix the braces to the top / bottom using the same anchor bolts.

Now you can make the steps yourself. Take dry boards, the thickness of which is at least 3.6 centimeters; the width at this time should be similar to the width of future steps or even slightly larger.

Note! In the manufacture of risers, you can take boards 2 cm thick.

As for the length of the workpieces, it should be the same as the width of the entire structure (that is, within 80-120 centimeters).

After trimming, carefully grind each workpiece to remove bumps and sharp cuts. The installation process itself is nothing complicated: cover the bottom cutouts on the kosoura with carpentry glue, attach the risers and align everything around the edges. Next, fix them using self-tapping screws, and lay the steps themselves on top. If you do not use glue, then the wooden parts will create squeaks during loading.

Lay down all the steps in the same way, and then begin fastening the railing. Make balusters for the railing from square bars or, as an option, curly wooden blanks. You can mount it on each step or through one (it all depends on what the characteristics of the span are). Fasten with screws, do not forget to close the hats with decorative caps. If the staircase to the second floor with your own hands will be located approximately in the middle of the room, you can equip the railing immediately from each side.

At the end, sand the finished ladder thoroughly and treat it with an antiseptic. Then paint the wood or open it with varnish. It is important that the final surface is not too smooth - the roughness of the steps will significantly increase the safety of the inhabitants of the house. Apply the topcoat in two to three coats, with the previous one completely dry before each new coat.

Straight concrete staircase

If your house is spacious enough, and the floor is made of concrete, then you can build a concrete staircase. As a rule, people often build one of two design options:

monolithic;
combined type (here only the kosour is made of concrete).

Note that option number 2 looks much more attractive. Nevertheless, for a staircase made of concrete, in any case, formwork is required, as well as a sufficiently strong foundation capable of supporting such a weight.

To get started, prepare everything you need, in particular:

moisture resistant plywood (can be replaced with a edged board, upholstered with PET film);
concrete;
durable bars 10x10 centimeters in cross section;
self-tapping screws;
reinforcement or a special knitting wire.

Note! The thickness of the boards for the construction of formwork should be 3 centimeters, and plywood - at least 1.8 centimeters. Calculate all the necessary dimensions in the same way as for the design from the previous paragraph of the article, however, the strength characteristics of the base are required maximum.

Start the work with the construction of the formwork: take plywood or boards, knock them in accordance with a pre-drawn drawing, avoiding the appearance of cracks and observing the required slope.

When the formwork is ready, install it between floors and fix it with the same bars. Then lay the reinforcing rods inside the formwork, tie them with steel wire. Where the railing will be installed, fix the wooden corks, and only after that fill the entire box with the prepared concrete mortar. It is important that the formwork be filled immediately, in one go, otherwise the solidity of the future structure will be violated.

After the concrete has set, dismantle the box, and moisten the formed steps from time to time with water, otherwise their surface may crack. Finishing, however, only begin when the concrete gains strength and dries completely. During the construction of the stairs of the combined type, the braids are poured in a similar way, and the formwork should be narrower (which is typical, the installation of steps should be taken into account here).

You can finish the finished monolithic structure with stone, wood, decorative tiles and other finishing materials. Before proceeding directly to the cladding, consider the weight - for example, the same tile will have a much greater load on the foundation than wood. You can attach any steps to concrete braces, but they will look especially attractive with a tree.

Video - Self-made stairs

How to build a metal staircase

To assemble such a design is not so difficult, but this will require skills in working with the welding machine and metal elements in general.

So, for starters, prepare such materials and equipment:

grinder with a grinding nozzle;
channel number 10;
file;
iron corners;
metal in sheets;
actually welding.

First, take the channel, cut it into segments and assemble from them a frame of the dimensions that the staircase to the second floor will do with your own hands. Next, take the corners and weld them to the ends of the resulting frame with the same pitch equal to the height of the steps. It is important that all the corners are exactly perpendicular to each other. To facilitate the installation of the design of the step, you can weld it after the frame is mounted and fixed.

Highly attach the upper frame elements to the upper ceiling using anchor bolts for this purpose. Attach the lower ends to the floor of the lower floor. After that, weld the steps made of sheet metal, and install the railing. When finished with the assembly, carefully grind the joints with a special nozzle or, as an option, with ordinary files. Finish the entire structure with an anti-corrosion primer.

How to make a spiral staircase

The main advantages of a spiral staircase are excellent decorative properties, as well as the fact that such a design does not take up much space. For example, a 2.5-meter-high staircase will consist of 16-17 steps, with the base being approximately 2 meters in diameter. One of the most popular ways of constructing spiral staircases to the second floor is to "string" triangular / trapezoidal steps onto the central axis. In this case, the width of the wide part will be from 30 to 35 centimeters, and the narrow part - only 15 centimeters.

For self-made stairs to the second floor you will need:

two steel pipes of 5 and 5.5 centimeters;
primer mixture;
wooden slats with which the template will be made;
file;
corners;
apparatus for welding.

A pipe with a smaller diameter will serve us as the main rack, therefore, its length should be the same as the interfloor distance. It is also recommended to concrete the staircase next to the base, so that it turns out to be more stable (do not forget to put the structure in advance vertically). A large pipe must be cut into cylinders about 15 centimeters long. Perform all slices strictly at an angle of 90 degrees, otherwise you will not be able to align all the steps horizontally.

Note! Cylinders should be put on the main pipe as tightly as possible, and there should be no backlash. If the joint is loose, you will have to use o-rings.

To make the steps, you will need a template made of wooden slats. Glue the latter in such a way that the corners placed in the frame form the steps of the required sizes.

Weld each step to the corresponding cylinder, and then grind carefully. When all the necessary elements are ready, begin to assemble the entire structure. Put the steps on the axis, set the angles and weld securely.

The last step is the installation of the railing and the final finish of the entire structure. For the manufacture of railings, you can use:

armature;
thin profile;
chrome pipes of small diameter.

Forged railing will also look very impressive. In this case, do not forget that all metal surfaces must be carefully sanded, primed with a mixture and painted.

A spiral staircase is also assembled on the second floor, for which wooden steps are used. Wood blanks should be made in the form of trapezoid, after which a hole with a diameter of 5 centimeters is made in the narrow part. Further, using special seals, the steps must be strung on the axis and fixed there. At the end, the railing is attached, the wood is primed, painted and decorated with decor.

Features of DIY assembly of stairs to the second floor

In the end, you should consider another curious version of how to build a staircase to the second floor with your own hands. In this case, we will talk about the design on the bolets, which got its name from it. Bolzen, which translates to "bolt." In other words, we are talking about a design that is fixed on special bolts. Although in reality it is not even bolts, but fasteners made in the form of pins, at the ends of which there is a thread. Thanks to the bolts, the railings and steps are interconnected and also attached to the wall. As a result, we get an airy and light staircase that can decorate any private house. Moreover, risers in this case are generally absent.

In addition, stairs of this type are both compact enough and stretched on a particular section of the wall. Despite the fact that these designs seem light, in fact they are strong and durable, they can easily withstand several hundred kilograms, which is why, in fact, have been gaining more and more popularity in recent years.

Note! It is quite obvious that it is impossible to install such a staircase in the center of the room, because fastening, as we have already found out, is carried out to the wall. But the most important thing - for the construction you need to use only high-quality and durable materials.

It is extremely difficult to calculate such a ladder with your own hands, but it can be purchased ready-made or ordered by specialists on an individual project. For more details on the installation of this design, see the video below.

That's all, good luck and warm winters!

Video - How to install a wooden staircase on the bollards

If there is more than one floor in a private house, you cannot do without a staircase. But besides the fact that it must connect the floors, the staircase still has to fit into the interior. Therefore, when choosing a design, one must pay attention not only not to the dimensions and how much space it takes in the room, but also to take into account the style. Then the staircase to the second floor, made by yourself, will not only be a functional item, but also an interior decoration. The work is difficult and responsible, but you can handle it.

Types of stairs to the second floor in a private house

All these structures can be made of metal, wood, concrete, glass, marble and other decorative stones, and combinations of these materials are often used. But most often the stairs to the second floor are made of wood with their own hands, a little less often - of metal or combinations of metal and wood.

In addition, there are two types of degrees - open and closed. In open staircases there is only a horizontally located part - the step itself, in closed - also the vertical part - the riser.

Design Standards

When designing a staircase, it is important to make it convenient and safe. There are quite specific numbers and recommendations that relate to the parameters of the steps and the overall angle of elevation:

The number of steps is determined by elementary dividing the height of the planned stairs by the selected riser height. For example, the height of the room is 285 cm. It was decided to make a lifting angle of 40 °. According to the table, we see that the riser height is 19 cm. Divide 285 cm / 19 cm \u003d 15 steps. If the amount is even, then adjust the size a bit to get an odd number.

If one of the steps turns out to be a few centimeters smaller, this height is “taken” from the first step. All others, including the latter, should be the same.

When choosing the sizes of steps, comfort can be checked. If the double riser height is folded with the selected step width, the result should be from 60 ms to 64 cm.The second test option is the sum of the tread lengths and the riser is optimally equal to 45 cm, but deviations of 2 cm in both directions are permissible.

All these parameters should be laid when designing a house. If the house is already built, you have to proceed from what is and adjust the dimensions to the existing dimensions.

Spiral staircase

As already mentioned, a spiral staircase in a private house takes up the least space. But it has a serious drawback: it is inconvenient to walk along it, and it is almost impossible to lift anything bulky to the second floor. So they are not very popular, although they look good and fit well into any interior.

Features of the calculation

When designing a spiral staircase, one must take into account that in some positions, other steps are located above the head. Therefore, to make small risers will not work.

The next feature - the steps all have an unequal width - with one narrower, with the other wider. The narrow part they are attached to the central support (pillar), the wide - to the walls or balusters. The standard for the width of the tread is measured in the middle part, and the wide one should not be more than 40 cm.

The width of the span is from 50 cm to 100 cm. The whole structure is doubled - a square with a side from 100 cm to 200 cm is needed.

Prefabricated Column Design

This type of spiral staircase is easiest to make: a pipe is placed on which wooden elements are put on - steps, intermediate cylinders, etc.

If you look in more detail, then in addition to a metal pipe (in this case with a diameter of 40 mm), steps and balusters (there is in any design) there are turned wooden cylinders (segments) that specify the distance from one step to another.

On the other hand, the distance between the steps is maintained with the help of cuts on balusters. In these grooves fasten steps (on glue + fixture).

Do-it-yourself installation of the stairs to the second floor begins with the installation of the pillar. A hole is made in the floor of the first floor and the ceiling of the second, equal to the diameter of the pillar. We insert the pipe into the hole, put on the enlarged washer, and tighten the nut. Further, the assembly is simple: the corresponding elements are mounted on the rod, in parallel with the installation of the stage, a baluster is put and fixed. The dimensions of the steps for this spiral staircase with the given parameters are in the drawing.

Steps are cut from a glued board or furniture panel. You can use the array, but furniture quality, that is, without any defects and dried, with a moisture content of not more than 8-12%. Although glued wood is considered to be more reliable: it certainly will not lead and it does not crack when dried.

An example of assembly of a similar design, see the video. It has a prefabricated pole, but it can also be used as a solid one, although it will be inconvenient to assemble the steps - each time you have to climb the stairs.

The design of a spiral staircase made of metal is presented in the following video fragment. For those who are friends with welding, this option will be easier.

Spiral staircase to the second floor: photos of interesting options

With and without railing - your choice. In the photo to the right, a wooden spiral staircase on a bent Kosoure - a difficult element to perform Forged spiral staircases - a classic of the genre

Marching stairs to the second floor

Marching stairs are the most popular. Firstly, it’s convenient to use them, and secondly, the technology of their construction has long been worked out. There are few features of the calculation. It is important to determine the number of marches. In one section should be from 3 to 15 degrees. The most comfortable have 11-13 pieces. If it turns out that there should be more steps, they are divided into several sections, between which the platforms are made. The dimensions of the sites are multiples of the step length (600-630 mm). Then the rise and descent will not cause inconvenience.

Views

Stairs with platforms take up a lot of space. If there is not enough space, add turns. The most common option is to position the staircase at two adjacent corners of the walls. Also, to save space, instead of the site, you can make cross (rotary) steps. Only one point: the section with the downhill steps is the most traumatic. If the family has small children or elderly people, it is better to make a playground.

As mentioned earlier, marching staircases are made on kosourah (beams with a sawtooth edge) and on the tribes (just an inclined beam). Fastening steps to bowstrings requires more time and skill. Usually, a “landing" place is cut out under each step - a groove is selected in the board. For added reliability, bars are still nailed from the bottom or angles are set. The option with corners is reliable, but quite controversial from an aesthetic point of view. If the whole staircase is made of wood, the metal details are very "cut" the look. Neatly crafted bars look much more organic. However, with a sufficient thickness of the boards for the steps and the width of the bowstring, you can do without additional fasteners. In this case, it is important that the steps do not bend, otherwise they may jump out of the grooves.

The assembly of steps on the kosoura is simpler: you have two or three supports, to which cut-sized parts are attached. The main task is to correctly mark and cut the braids.

This staircase on the kosoura is one of the fragments of the assembly.

Installation of the flight of stairs with step by step photos

Kosoures are made from a wide board 75-80 mm thick and 350-400 mm wide. If there is no massive dry board, you can use glued. How to calculate the kosour is described in the form, but it is possible to assemble the stairs to the second floor not only as a separate one.

An example of the assembly of the stairs on the side walls against the wall further. First, we fasten the support pillars, on which the running steps will rest. We attach the upper braces to these pillars.

Then put the bottom ones. We attach the kosour near the wall over the decorative board - it is easier to wash and dirt is less visible than on the wall.

We fasten the lower braids - one to the post, the second to the finishing board

Intermediate braces are installed last. It’s easier to dock all the elements.

The installation of the steps begins. After they are cut, polished and painted, everything is simple: put it in place, screw up the hole for the self-tapping screw, then twist it.

The next step is to fix the balusters. In this case, they are made of stainless pipe with wooden inserts. A hole is drilled under each baluster, into which the tube is inserted; it is fixed to a hairpin or in any other accessible way.

Photos of interesting marching stairs to the 2nd floor

Metal and glass - an interesting combination. An interesting idea, but from the end - a pantry

Low-rise construction, when it comes to residential buildings, involves the construction of at least two-level buildings. Therefore, to move to the second floor without an internal staircase can not do. The purchase of a ready-made kit, firstly, will come out quite expensive (at least 35,000 rubles), and secondly, it needs to be adapted to specific premises before installation, or to be engaged in their reconstruction (redevelopment). And this is an additional cost and time.

In most cases, it is more advisable to make a staircase to the second floor with your own hands, especially since the terms will turn out approximately the same. The simplest and cheapest option is a wood structure. This article will explain in detail all the nuances of the choice of lumber, drawing up a drawing of the stairs and the features of its assembly.

In relation to a private house, the two most common are a spiral staircase and a mid-flight staircase. The first option is quite complicated, and it’s unlikely that it will be possible to implement it with your own hands, without practical skills and experience in this area. We will have to do specific engineering calculations, which means that without the help of a professional, at least at this stage of preparation you can not do. Focusing only on the schemes available on the Internet is not entirely correct. They do not take into account the specifics of a particular structure, so they will definitely have to be processed taking into account the peculiarities of its dimensions, layout and a number of other factors. And the installation of a spiral staircase, especially a wooden one, is far from an easy process.

DIY assembly optimal solution - marching wooden staircase. Based on the height of the premises of the first floor, there can be one or two spans (rotary structure).

But in the details, even exactly the same stairs can be very different. And this is easily explained by the fact that making with your own hands implies an element of creativity. Since all private houses vary in many respects (dimensions, ceiling height, layout, internal content), it is unpromising to follow a single standard. By the way, the author has already drawn the reader's attention to this. Therefore, hereinafter - only general recommendations that will help to correctly draw up a drawing of a wooden staircase, taking into account all the features of the structure, and to make its installation in place.

general information

There are several options for marching stairs. Their main varieties are shown in the figures below. It is not difficult to decide which modification to choose for DIY installation, knowing all the features of the house and the premises of the first and second floors.

In the description of any product or prefabricated structure can not do without special terminology. The following figures explain well what are the main elements of the staircase.

Preparation of materials

When choosing a tree species, if you focus on a reasonable combination of quality / price, it is recommended to give preference to a pine or larch. The latter is even better, as it is less prone to decay. Moreover, when the liquid is absorbed, it only becomes stronger. Since in any living room there will certainly be vapor - more than relevant, especially if there is a kitchen in the adjacent room. All other breeds - cedar, oak and a number of others - are unlikely to belong to the budget options of a wooden staircase.
The durability of the design largely depends on the degree of drying of the lumber. If the wood in this regard is not sufficiently processed, then such a ladder will “lead” pretty quickly. Do-it-yourself drying of the boards is a troublesome and complicated process. It will take not only a place for their storage, but also knowledge of all the features of the technique. We will have to ensure the constancy of temperature, high-quality ventilation and so on. The conclusion is unambiguous - it is impractical to save on material for a wooden staircase. That is, if you purchase boards, then only a high degree of drying, although they are more expensive.

Calculation of the main parameters of the stairs

Width

When determining this parameter, one should be guided by such moments. Firstly, whether it will be convenient to move along the stairs at the same time, towards each other. Secondly, will it be possible to carry bulk cargo from floor to floor (furniture, household appliances, and so on). For a private home recommended width of the internal staircase - 130 ± 20.

Ladder height

When calculating this parameter, inexperienced "home masters" are guided by the ceiling of the room on the first floor. This is not true. When drawing up a staircase drawing, not only this parameter is taken into account, but also the total thickness of the floor and floor of the second room (together with the finish). That is, the last step should be at the same level with it.

Span height

The distance between the steps and the ceiling of the second floor (ceiling) is implied. It is clear that moving up the stairs, constantly bending your head - is not an option to save space. Basically, the masters are guided by 200. This is enough, since rarely does anyone grow beyond this value.

The steepness of a wooden staircase

The optimal slope is 40 ± 5º. Exceeding this value will complicate the climb to the second floor to elderly people, young children, as well as those whose physical capabilities are limited for some reason. But a flatter design has several disadvantages. The consumption of wood increases, and the space for its installation will need much more. Here you need to choose the most suitable option for a particular house.

Steps

Tread. It should be guided by the 45th size of a person’s foot, then it will be convenient to walk up the stairs for everyone. Based on this, the recommended width of the steps is within 28 ± 2.

Riser. The optimal value, regardless of the design features of the wooden staircase, 18 ± 2. It will be convenient for both children and a tall person to move along it.

The number of steps. A calculation is required here. The distance between adjacent ones is determined simply - the thickness of their board + risers. Upon receipt of a fractional value, it is rounded to the nearest whole value. It remains only to divide the height of the stairs into it.

What to consider:

The sizes of all steps of the flight of stairs must be identical. That is, it is enough to make calculations for only one.
If there are more than 18 steps, it is recommended to provide a platform in the staircase structure (therefore, at least 2 flights). It is called differently - viewing, turning, intermediate - but you need to mount it. Another question - where exactly should it be located - strictly in the center of the span, closer to the top of the stairs? Here it is worth considering, in accordance with the features of the house and the convenience of moving to the second floor.

Ladder length

This is the last stage of the calculation. The initial data are the parameters of the steps and their number. As practice shows, with the independent drawing of the staircase drawing, it often does not fit in the estimated length to the room on the first floor. How to proceed? There are several options:

Add one march. This decision is more complicated, since you will have to mount an additional site, and, therefore, re-perform the basic calculations.
To provide several rotary (running) steps in the staircase construction. The option is simpler and more convenient for doing it yourself. It is he who is most often implemented.

Features of mounting a wooden staircase

Regardless of its design, all basic technological operations are identical. If you understand the nuances of building a single-march staircase, then assembling it according to any other scheme will not be difficult.

The specifics of the preparation of components

Steps. For them, sections of the board are selected that do not have any defects in the form of chips, cracks, curvatures. Their recommended thickness, taking into account the expected loads, is 35 ± 5. More impractical, since both the consumption of material and the total weight of the structure increase. Less undesirable for safety reasons, climbing stairs (taking into account the carried loads).

At the stage of preparation of the steps, it is necessary to round the sharp edges of the fragments of the boards in order to eliminate the risk of injury. In addition, their front surface and ends must be carefully sanded - no chips, burrs, and so on. Here you will be most welcome. The length of the steps is selected depending on the chosen scheme of the wooden stairs. But their protrusions beyond the kosour by more than 3 (cm) are undesirable.

Risers. They are not load-bearing elements, and often play only a decorative role. Here you can save a little by using a board of 10 or 15. By the way, some wooden stairs are assembled without them. Such constructions look even more impressive, and, in addition, span cleaning is greatly simplified.

Kosoura. These are supporting elements for the entire staircase, therefore, lumber for them should be selected especially carefully. Particular attention is paid to the equality of all parameters. Both skewers should be like “twin brothers”, otherwise the staircase after assembly will turn out asymmetric, with distortions, curvatures and so on. The illustrations show some options for kosour.

The feasibility of making do-it-yourself fencing elements is in question. Well, if it is possible to carry out the processing of balusters, handrails on the machine equipment. Otherwise, it is better to purchase ready-made samples. Given that they (especially with a side view) are primarily striking, such costs are justified.

The nuances of installing a wooden staircase

Mounting kosourov. Fixing the extreme on the wall is only possible if the base is strong enough (a house of brick, timber, and so on). In other cases, the entire staircase structure is mounted on racks.

To prevent movements of the lower part on the floor of the first floor, a support block is installed. The top of the span is fixed in the ceiling itself (you will need to make a cutout in the beam along its width) or “fasten” it to it with anchor bolts. The braids themselves should also be bonded to each other, so that in the process of drying the wood they will not be "led". For example, like that.

Risers. If it is decided to use them in the staircase scheme, then they are mounted on the braces.

Steps. In order not to be mistaken, their installation begins from the bottom of the structure. Lateral fastenings - on the support beams, if there are risers, then at least at one point (in the center) on them.

Balusters. At first, only two are mounted - the upper and lower. A cord is pulled between them. Guided by it, it is easy to install stairs along the spans and align all the others.

Mounting handrails. When it comes to a wooden staircase, this a priori does not mean that these elements must also be made of wood. Making them from it with your own hands is quite difficult. Here you will need not only experience, but also the appropriate tool. Options for handrails are plastic or metal.

Final stage

After checking the symmetry of the structure, the reliability of all joints, a number of measures are carried out:

Grinding of all structural parts.
Impregnation with special compounds (from fire, rot, insect borers).
Surface finish. The painting option is not for a private home. It is advisable to treat the stairs with a tinting composition, and on top or with a wax-containing solution. But this is at the discretion of the owner, depending on the general style of decoration.