How and with what to insulate a wall in a corner apartment from the inside? Wall insulation in a panel house: advantages and disadvantages How to insulate panel houses from the inside.

At one time, the construction of multi-storey residential buildings from reinforced concrete panels was very common, which is why most urban residents now have apartments in buildings erected in this way. By itself, the method of using ready-made panels is not bad, since it allows you to erect a structure quite quickly. However, several years after the commissioning of the object, problems begin with the joints between the blocks, especially vertical ones. They cease to be airtight, which causes inconvenience and discomfort for residents of apartments living in such a house, who are faced with the problem of drafts, dampness and the inability to make full-fledged repairs inside the apartment in the place where the gap between the panels passes.

Judging by the reviews, which can often be found, the problem of sealing and insulating interpanel seams worries so many apartment owners, so later in the article we will figure out what can be done in a situation when there is no life because of the gap in the entire wall, especially in winter.

Why does it blow from the seams

At the time when the bulk of panel houses were built, there were no reliable "long-term" means for sealing. Therefore, the gaps between the reinforced concrete building blocks were filled with ordinary sand-cement masonry mortar. And it’s not bad. But until the time when the building shrinks so that the slabs move relative to each other. This can happen in a year, or maybe in ten years, but still, as practice shows, such a situation happens.

As a result of such a displacement, and we can talk about several millimeters, the substance filling the seam creates a crack. And, even in the absence of visible damage, the gap formed becomes a conductor of cold and moisture that gets outside into the apartment. With the subsequent movement of the building, the situation is only aggravated and can reach such an extent that through the formed gap one can observe what is happening on the street. It is clear that in such a situation, radical measures cannot be avoided.

Is it possible to fight the seams from the inside

Of course, it is possible and necessary, especially if it is -20 outside the window, and you can stick your finger through the gap. That is, urgent but temporary measures must be taken. Why temporary? Because sealing the seams from the inside is basically wrong. Just imagine that the existing gap between the panels was sealed with an ultra-modern and durable sealant from the inside. On the outside, the crack is gaping, and after each rain, a lot of moisture accumulates in it. Previously, the slot was ventilated, so the moisture quickly evaporated. Now it will be here permanently, destroying not only the mortar binding the panels, but also the concrete slab itself. Can you imagine what the consequences could be?

The same goes for the idea of \u200b\u200binsulating the wall from inside the apartment. In this case, according to the laws of heat engineering, the dew point, which was previously somewhere in the middle of the panel thickness closer to the outer surface, will shift just to the inner surface of the wall. That is, from the inside of the apartment between the wall and the insulation, rivulets formed by condensate will constantly flow down the surface. And this moisture will begin to destroy from the inside the floor covering next to the wall and the finish from below, where fungus and other "micro-living" will start.

So what should you do? Close up seams and insulate panel houses. Only outside.

Sealing joints between panels from the outside

The very work of sealing the gaps between reinforced concrete blocks is not so difficult. However, given the altitude, only industrial climbers can do it and will have to be hired. But there is a category of lucky ones, which include the inhabitants of the first floor. So they can do this simple work on their own. So what you need to do:

From the seam, using a puncher, you need to remove the contents. There can be old sealant, mortar and dead insects. Ideally, there should be two abutting slabs and nothing in between.
Now the surfaces of the panels need to be moistened with water from a spray gun and the existing gap should be filled with polyurethane foam. It is better to use professional foam (applied with a gun), it is denser, expands less and is generally much better quality.
We are waiting for the complete polymerization (hardening) of the polyurethane substance, after which we remove it from the outside by about 3 cm.In the existing groove along the entire length of the gap between the panels, we place a special cylindrical roller made of polyethylene foam (Vilatherm).
On top, we cover the roller made of polyethylene insulation with a special sealant designed for this purpose, which is needed for waterproofing.

Sealing the seams on the outside is a good and useful thing, but to achieve the desired effect, you should also insulate the wall from the outside.

Insulation of a panel house from the outside

And here the residents of the first floor were lucky, who can do the insulation of concrete walls outside the houses on their own. All the rest, those who live higher, will again have to turn to the services of specialists with mountaineering equipment. They usually know what to do. But for residents of the first floor, it is worth offering instructions for wall insulation, using inexpensive and easy-to-use polystyrene for this. It should be noted right away that before installing the insulation, you still need to seal the gaps between the panels. So, we insulate the wall of the first floor:

The wall must be cleaned of debris and all kinds of contamination, and then treated with a high-quality primer intended for outdoor use (it should be indicated on the package).
If necessary, attach a base plate to support the first row of foam.
A cement-polymer glue is prepared using a construction mixer according to the instructions on the package. The correct mortar should stay on the metal (working) surface of the spatula.
Glue is applied to the foam board in several places (along the edges and in the center) in the form of slides. The insulation sheet is pressed against the wall. During this, it is necessary to control the verticality of the installation.
After the installation of the first row, the second is installed, and the vertical joints should not coincide (as in the brickwork). And so to the top.
Upon completion of the glue setting (about a day), the sheets are fixed with special dowels (umbrellas).
A layer of plaster glue is spread over the surface of the foam with a spatula, into which the facade mesh is pressed for reinforcement. Another leveling layer of mortar is laid on top.
When all plaster layers are dry, the work surface should be lightly sanded with a flat emery stone, and then primed again. Now everything is ready in order to apply decorative plaster, bark beetle, for example, or "lamb".

That's all. We think that the information obtained from the article will help you understand the problem of sealing the joints between reinforced concrete blocks, as well as insulating panel houses from the outside.

The walls of a panel house over time need additional insulation. Unlike brick buildings, with a temperature difference, they can freeze through, accumulate moisture, which leads to the destruction of the external facade of the house, the occurrence of cracks, mold and other unpleasant changes. Residents may notice that the apartments are cold despite the presence of heating. To eliminate the consequences of such changes, and to keep the level of heat inside the premises as much as possible, it is recommended to insulate the panel house from the outside.

Advantages of outdoor insulation

External insulation of the house will not only avoid heat leaks through the walls, but also protect the facade from further destruction. With the use of various decorative design options in the external decoration, the house will look new. In addition, wall insulation outside has the following advantages:

there is no need to evict tenants from the house during the repair work,
increasing the temperature inside the building by protecting the walls from freezing and other adverse effects of weather conditions,
no change in the size of the interior - the entire living area is preserved,
insulation technology strengthens the supporting structure of a panel house, the building becomes more durable and its service life increases,
a layer of insulation from the outside acts as an additional good sound insulation of the building.

External wall insulation is most effective for panel houses - it is possible to save up to 50% of heat.

Insulation types

The choice of which material is better to insulate the walls from the outside is influenced by:

the location of the panel house in a certain climatic region,
rainfall, wind strength and speed,
allocated budget for insulation of a panel house,
other individual factors.

useful in work

The estimate and project for the work is usually drawn up by the management company or HOA. And a team of industrial climbers directly carries out the process of insulation outside.

For panel houses, two types of insulation are mainly used:

Mineral wool

For outdoor work, it is convenient to work with mineral wool slabs, which are produced by various manufacturers. It has good performance in terms of basic characteristics, including thermal conductivity. However, care must be taken that the mineral wool does not get wet, otherwise it will lose its thermal insulation properties. To do this, a vapor-permeable membrane is laid under the layer of insulation, which will protect it from vapors.

When finishing with a ventilated facade, condensation from the walls of the house will be removed due to the air gap and the membrane can not be used.

Styrofoam

Differs in lightness, simplicity when laying slabs on the wall. Also has good parameters for heat and sound insulation. For outdoor work, it is important to use a material that does not support spontaneous combustion. Manufacturers mark it with the G1 marking, but the results of many tests confirm that the foam is flammable, and such a name does not meet the requirements of GOST 30244-94. When buying insulation, be sure to ask the seller for product certificates.

It's important to know

Insulation of a panel house outside is limited by the thickness of the insulating material. The maximum value of the thickness of the foam plastic for the walls is calculated according to special formulas, taking into account the average temperatures in a certain climatic region and the purpose of the building (residential, public, industrial).

Stages of the facade insulation process

Depending on the chosen method of insulation, installation will vary. There are two main technologies:

Wet Facade
Ventilated facade

Wet insulation process is described below.

Wall surface preparation

It is necessary to carefully prepare the surface of the facade of the house in order to insulate it efficiently. Each wall is leveled, cleaned of various plaque, voids and cracks are sealed, especially paying attention to the joints of the panels. If necessary, they put a sealant in them, coat the cracks with special mastics.
Wall surface irregularities are allowed within 1 - 2 cm, but not more.
After cleaning and processing the joints, the walls are left to dry. Then they are coated with a universal primer using a roller or spray.

Installation of insulation

Fastening of heat-insulating material to walls is possible in three ways:

on glue,
for fasteners (dowels, plastic nails),
combination of glue with fasteners.

The video shows in detail the method of fixing the foam with a dowel for thermal insulation.

For example, the foam is fixed in a combined way from the first floor to the top. At the bottom, a starting bar is installed, from which insulation is glued. In this case, the glue is applied to the walls carefully with a spatula, filling the existing irregularities. Then the foam sheets are pressed tightly to the treated surface. The evenness of the rows of insulation is checked by the level. Before the glue base sets, it is possible to correct minor errors. Now you need to wait 2 - 3 days so that the glue is completely dry and the insulation is well fixed on the walls. Further, the foam is additionally fixed with dowels - 4 - 5 pieces per sheet. Holes for fasteners are made with a puncher.

The second and subsequent rows of foam sheets are stacked in a checkerboard pattern so that the joints of adjacent layers do not coincide. All the seams between the insulation and the cracks from the fasteners are filled with special foam designed specifically for the installation of foam, in order to minimize the likelihood of heat leakage. Such foam is produced in cylinders and it is better to apply it with a special gun. Cut off the excess, the remains of the foam after drying.

Anchoring the mesh

Polyfoam is a rather fragile material, therefore, to give strength and rigidity to the insulation elements, it is reinforced. For this, a special stable mesh is installed on the outside of the foam sheets. It is convenient to cut it into separate pieces of the same size and overlap in small pieces. A layer of a special adhesive solution for facade work is evenly applied to the insulated surfaces, and the mesh is pressed into it. Then another adhesive layer is applied for leveling. After installing the mesh on the whole house, wait for the glue to dry in order to sand the surfaces with emery paper from the solution smudges and irregularities during the fastening process.
The implementation of the reinforcement provides mechanical stability for the final decorative coating of the panel house.

Finishing

After insulation, external facades are usually decorated with decorative plaster. For the best adhesion of materials, the general layer of thermal insulation is primed again.
In addition, the technology of hinged ventilated facades is often used for residential apartment buildings. The thermal insulation layer has already been completed - it remains to mount the outer cladding with a ventilation gap.

Today we offer a wide range of materials for exterior decoration in the curtain wall system:

metal products (corrugated board, siding, facade cassettes),
aluminum composite panels,
slabs made of porcelain stoneware, natural or artificial stone.

Each of them can be selected according to the external structure, colors and other characteristics.
The ventilation facade technology not only protects the walls of the building, but also allows you to embody a variety of design ideas and solutions.
To fix the ventilated facade, you will need an additional frame device.

The process of insulating panel houses can be performed during their reconstruction or major repairs. If your choice fell on the "wet" facade technology, it is advisable to plan work in the summer or at temperatures above 5 ° C. When using ventilated facades, installation can be performed all year round.

September 3, 2016
Specialization: facade decoration, interior decoration, construction of summer cottages, garages. The experience of an amateur gardener and gardener. He also has experience in repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobby: playing guitar and much more, for which there is not enough time :)

Recently, with the constant increase in energy prices, people tend to insulate their apartments. This procedure really allows you to save on heating and make your home more comfortable, but at the same time, it must be performed correctly so that you do not face a number of problems later. Therefore, in this article we will look at how to insulate the walls of an apartment inside, and is there any point in doing this.

Is it worth insulating the walls from the inside

It is, of course, much easier to insulate the walls from the inside than from the outside. However, I note right away that this is far from the best solution for a number of reasons:

after installing thermal insulation, the walls will stop warming up altogether, as a result of which between them and the wall will be formed. This, in turn, can lead to the formation of mold and even the appearance of cracks on the walls;
when the insulation is located from the inside, it is not possible to insulate the floor, as a result, the ceiling also turns out to be "cold", moreover, condensation can form on it;
insulation from the inside takes away living space... In a large apartment this, of course, will be practically unnoticeable, but for a "Khrushchev" apartment, where every square centimeter counts, the usable area decreases significantly.

This raises the question - why do internal insulation at all, if it has so many disadvantages? The fact is that it is not always possible to insulate the walls from the outside. For example, if the facade of your house faces a central city street or square, then the local authorities are unlikely to allow you to change its appearance.

In addition, sometimes it is not possible to carry out external insulation for technical reasons, for example, if a wall is adjacent to an unheated elevator shaft. Thus, it makes sense to implement wall insulation from the inside in an apartment in the following cases:

if it is not possible to place the insulation outside;
if internal insulation is used as an addition to the external one. Even if the additional insulation on the walls is thin enough, it will become much more comfortable inside the house.

After the walls are insulated from the inside, it is necessary to provide high-quality ventilation of the room, since the apartment, in fact, turns into a large sealed thermos. This, in turn, will lead to an increase in humidity and a deterioration of the microclimate.

In other cases, it is better to insulate the apartment outside.

Insulation technology

The process of insulating walls with your own hands from the inside includes several stages:

Each of these stages has its own nuances, which we will get acquainted with below.

Preparation of materials

It is necessary to start work on insulation, of course, with the preparation of materials. Since people are often interested in how it is better to insulate housing from the inside, I will say a few words about insulation.

In principle, you can use any thermal insulation material, since the degree of thermal conductivity differs slightly between them. However, it should be borne in mind that the material will not be located in the housing, but outside it. Therefore, it is better to refuse foam plastic, but mineral wool is a good solution - this heat insulator is much more environmentally friendly, moreover, fireproof.

In addition to insulation, you will need the following materials:

vapor barrier film - prevents moisture penetration into the insulation. If you do not use it, then the insulation will be saturated with water, which entails a number of negative consequences;

material for mounting the frame - it can be wooden beams or boards. However, most often they use a regular profile for installation. In this case, you will need more brackets and guides;
drywall or other material for sheathing the frame (lining, plastic panels, etc.)

To complete the purchase of all these materials, you need to first calculate the squaring of the walls. Knowing what is the price for each of the materials, you can calculate in advance the cost of internal insulation.

Preparing the walls

So, we figured out how to insulate the walls of the apartment from the inside. Now let's get to work.

As mentioned above, before insulating the wall from the inside in the apartment, it must be prepared. This is done as follows:

first of all, it is necessary to remove the old covering from the wall - wallpaper, tiles, etc. If the wall is covered with plaster or plaster, it is also advisable to remove it.
As mentioned above, moisture will form between the wall and the insulation, as a result of which the gypsum will soak, therefore, this will not lead to anything good. You can remove the plaster with a chisel and a hammer or a hammer drill turned on in impact mode.

then be sure to treat the wall with antiseptics to prevent mold. Instructions for the use of drugs are usually found on the packaging.

To achieve the maximum effect from insulation, it is necessary to insulate the ceiling, i.e. an overlap that will adjoin the frozen wall. This can be done with the wet method - glue the mineral wool slabs and additionally fix them with dowels. The surface of the insulation is plastered, on our portal you can get detailed information on how this is done.

This completes the preparation process.

Ventilation gap arrangement

The process of arranging the ventilation gap is carried out at the stage of waterproofing the walls. It should be noted that many construction sites propose to perform thermal insulation from the inside without a ventilation gap.

The big disadvantage of such a scheme is that moisture is necessarily formed between the wall and the insulation, which does not disappear anywhere, which leads to the destruction of the wall. Therefore, it is better to refuse its implementation.

Arrangement of the ventilation gap is carried out in the following sequence:

attach wooden slats about two centimeters thick to the walls. You can arrange them horizontally in steps of about a meter. You can attach the slats to the walls with dowel-nails.
The slats must first be treated with a protective compound so that they do not rot in a humid environment;
then a few airflows must be made in the wall for the ventilation gap to work. To do this, drill holes with a diameter of about 20 mm. To prevent the holes from clogging, they must be protected with a mesh;
then a vapor barrier film is attached to the resulting crate. Moreover, it should be located tightly so that a ventilation gap forms between the wall and the film.

To drill holes from the inside in a panel house for dowels-nails, you should use a hammer drill with a victorious drill.

Frame installation

The frame consists of vertical posts, which are located with a step equal to the width of the heat insulator plates. In order for the insulation to fit securely to the racks, a step between them can be made even a centimeter less than the width of the insulation.

The frame assembly process is as follows:

first of all, mark the walls according to which the racks and guides will be located. It should be noted that the distance between the wall (vapor barrier in our case) and the guides that will be mounted on the ceiling and floor must be no less than the thickness of the heat insulator so that the insulation can fit inside the frame;
then brackets are attached to the vapor barrier rails according to the marking, which will hold the racks. Several brackets should be used for each rack. For mounting the latter, self-tapping screws are usually used;
then the rails for the posts are attached to the floor and ceiling. They should be located strictly opposite each other so that the racks stand upright. Therefore, before installing them, you should make sure that the marking is accurate;
then the racks are inserted into the rails and fixed with brackets, as shown in the diagram above.

You can use special metal shears to cut the metal profile.

The installation of a frame made of beams is performed according to the same principle. The only thing is that in this case, rails are not used, so the racks are installed simply by marking.

The installation of the insulation is extremely simple - if the racks are located correctly, the mineral wool slabs are simply inserted between them, and no additional fixation is required. The only thing is that there are no cold bridges, the space between the wall and the racks should be filled with insulation.

To do this, you can cut the mineral wool into strips of the required size. You can cut the slabs with a regular wood hacksaw.

Mineral wool fibers, getting on the skin and even more so in the eyes, cause severe irritation. Therefore, when working with it, use personal protective equipment.

If gaps form between the mineral wool slabs, they must also be filled with insulation. In addition, it is necessary to ensure a snug fit of the mineral wool to the floor and ceiling. I note that these, at first glance, little things should not be neglected, since the effectiveness of insulation largely depends on them.

After the insulation is laid, another layer of vapor barrier should be fixed to the frame. If the frame is wooden, then you can use a construction stapler to fix it.

If the frame is metal, the vapor barrier can be temporarily fixed with tape. Subsequently, the film will be fixed with the sheathing material.

On the forums, people are often interested in how to insulate a wall from the inside in a corner apartment? The technology is really no different.

Frame sheathing

As a rule, the frame cladding in the apartment is carried out with plasterboard. Therefore, in the end, I will briefly describe the technology of its installation and further finishing:

work must begin by cutting drywall into sheets of a suitable size. To do this, mark the sheets, then cut the cardboard with a mounting knife on one side along the marked line, then break the sheet, and then cut the cardboard on the other side;
prepared sheets should be attached to the frame with self-tapping screws, which should be spaced 5-10 cm apart from each other. The caps of the screws must be recessed;

then at the joints of the sheets you need to cut off a 5 mm wide bevel. If the end is rounded, you do not need to cut the chamfer;
then a special self-adhesive mesh is glued to the seams between the sheets;

then the caps of the screws and the joints between the sheets are covered with plaster putty;
after that, the entire surface of the walls is putty. On our portal you can find detailed information on how to properly perform filling;
then the surface is sanded with a special float, on which the mesh is put on:
then another layer of finishing putty is applied and the final sanding is carried out.

Sanding should be done in bright light. In this case, you will see all the flaws that need to be eliminated.

This completes the wall cladding and finishing process. Now you can paint it or, for example, glue wallpaper on it.

If lining or wooden panels are used as cladding, then they are simply attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. Accordingly, the sheathing takes much less time.

Here, in fact, is all the information on how to insulate the walls of an apartment from the inside with your own hands.

Output

I told you how to insulate the walls inside with minimal negative consequences. Therefore, do not try to simplify the process and deviate from the above technology. Compliance with it will allow you to make your apartment really warm and cozy.

The video in this article contains more information. If you are faced with any difficulties in the process of warming or some points are not clear to you, ask questions in the comments, and I will gladly answer you.

September 3, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

The content of the article:

Wall insulation is a series of measures aimed at improving the comfort of living in a house by reducing its heat losses. High-quality thermal insulation of the enclosing structures allows you to provide the premises with an acceptable temperature and optimal humidity level. Modern technologies for insulating panel walls provide an opportunity to perform the necessary procedures without temporary eviction of residents and with minimal financial costs.

Choosing a way to insulate walls

Panel houses, in comparison with brick buildings, are much less resistant to sudden temperature changes. In winter, concrete walls freeze through strongly, and with the onset of heat, moisture condenses on their inner surface, which contributes to the formation of mold. In such conditions, the decorative finishing of the room can become completely unusable, not to mention the harmful effect of fungal spores on the health of the inhabitants of the home.

The only correct solution for concrete panel walls is their thermal insulation, which creates a "thermos" effect in the interior space of the house. There are two types of wall insulation: internal and external. The choice of any of them depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe premises, living conditions, number of storeys and financial capabilities of the owners.

Owners of private houses have the opportunity to independently perform both external and internal insulation. It will not be possible to perform external thermal insulation of apartment buildings with your own hands, since on the outside of the house, materials must be installed exclusively by experienced specialists who have permission to conduct high-altitude work and the appropriate equipment for an industrial climber. Such works are not cheap, so many apartment owners prefer to insulate the panel wall from the inside on their own.

Internal wall insulation has more disadvantages than advantages. With such insulation, the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is reduced by an average of 8-10 cm along the entire length of the walls due to the thickness of the insulation and decorative cladding. During the renovation, full operation of the room becomes impossible. Polyfoam or mineral wool, which is used as a heater, can cause an allergic reaction in the body in the future.

But most importantly, the insulation laid from the inside insulates the wall panels from the heating system. This means that they are in the subzero temperature zone. As a result, the dew point shifts to the inner surface of the walls, as a result of which condensate accumulates between the insulation and the enclosing structure, which contributes to the development of the fungus. Nevertheless, with proper internal insulation, many of its negative factors can be minimized.

If it is possible to insulate panel walls from the outside, it is recommended to give preference to this method. It has undeniable advantages:

The load-bearing walls of the building are closed with insulation and cladding against weathering and precipitation, which prolongs its service life.
Due to the removal of the dew point to the outer surface of the walls, they do not freeze in winter and keep the room cool in summer.
The useful area of \u200b\u200bthe room is preserved, which is especially important for small apartments.
Unlike internal insulation, the room can be fully used during thermal insulation.

The materials that are used to insulate panel walls by this method have increased heat and sound insulation, high strength, durability, resistance to precipitation and changes in outdoor air temperature.

External thermal insulation changes the appearance of the facade. Sometimes this requires permission from the authorities.

Selection of material for wall insulation

Wall insulation is carried out using various heat-insulating materials that differ from each other in their properties, scope and cost. The most popular of them in this case are polystyrene, glass and mineral basalt wool.

Any wall insulation should be distinguished by long-term operation, fire resistance, elasticity, lack of heat loss and the presence of biological protection. Their environmental safety is also extremely important, especially when used for internal insulation of premises, since low-quality material can negatively affect the health of their inhabitants.

For the right choice, you need to know the properties of this or that insulation. Let's consider them in detail:

Mineral wool... Basalt stone is used as the main raw material for its production. Cotton wool has a fibrous structure, due to which the material retains air, which in itself is an excellent heat insulator. Mineral wool is available in slabs or rolls. It has low thermal conductivity, good fire resistance and durability. Its only drawback is instability to moisture. Therefore, when installing mineral wool, it needs careful waterproofing protection. The material is used for both external and internal wall insulation in a panel house.
Glass wool... The structure of this insulation is made up of thin glass fibers up to 5 cm long. Previously, the material was very popular, but in recent years it has begun to give way to more technologically advanced designs. Glass wool does not burn, withstands low temperatures perfectly, has good sound insulation characteristics and low cost. It is unsuitable for rodents and does not support the growth of mold and mildew. The insulation is environmentally friendly and elastic: if the glass wool is compressed, it quickly takes on its original appearance after being removed from the package. However, compared to other thermal insulation materials, the service life of glass wool is slightly lower. In addition, working with it requires protective equipment for the skin, eyes and respiratory tract. Getting on the body, glass fibers of the material cause severe itching, therefore, it is recommended to lay such insulation in tight clothing and gloves. Special glasses and a respirator will also be useful.
Styrofoam... This is the most common and economical insulation. There are two types of it: foamed and extruded. They differ in manufacturing technology, appearance and price. The first is cheaper, consists of sintered granules, and the second has a dense fine-mesh structure. Most often, the foam is produced in the form of slabs. It has excellent heat and sound insulation characteristics, excellent moisture resistance, light weight and durability when properly installed. The disadvantages of this insulation can be attributed to its fragility, mainly it concerns the foamed foam. Therefore, when buying several plates, it is recommended to take in reserve. Polyfoam is a combustible material that, in a fire, releases toxins that are hazardous to health, although the fire itself is also difficult to call safe. And the last thing: this insulation does not have biological protection, so rodents and mold can appear in it. To minimize the risks with foam, you need to work in a strictly technological sequence.
Penofol... It belongs to the new generation of thermal insulation. The insulation is made by foaming polyethylene and has a foil coating. It can be used for external and internal wall insulation. Penofol is produced in the form of rolls, it has a small thickness, which does not affect its thermal insulation qualities. It is environmentally friendly, easy to install and compact to transport. In addition, this material is distinguished by high sound insulation, fire safety and low vapor permeability. The insulation is laid using a special adhesive.
Fibrolite... Insulation is made from compressed wood chips, magnesia salt or Portland cement serves as a binder. Fiberboard goes on sale in the form of plates covered with a protective film on top, which resists moisture penetration into the material and the formation of mold. The material is easy to process and easy to install. After installation on the wall, fiberboard slabs are plastered. After that, the finished coating becomes tough and durable.
Cork insulation... The material is used for internal insulation of panel walls. Of all the insulation materials listed above, it is the most environmentally friendly. Cork insulation has high strength, low weight, low thermal conductivity. It is durable, versatile and shrinkage resistant. The material is produced in the form of slabs. After their installation on the wall, further finishing of the coating can be omitted, it will already have a completely presentable appearance. In addition, cork insulation has good biological protection that counteracts the appearance of various microorganisms in it. This material is expensive, but the price is more than compensated for by its advantages.
Foamed polyurethane... To apply it to the surface, special equipment and formwork installation are required. The material goes through the polymerization process very quickly, and after its completion it is covered with a waterproofing film. By its structure, the insulation resembles a frozen layer of polyurethane foam. Its strength is low, therefore, polyurethane must be covered with an external finish. Plasterboard or plywood can be used as an additional hard cover. Due to the fact that the entire structure is mounted on a frame, the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe room will decrease by the thickness of the inner lining.

Before purchasing any insulation for panel walls, it is recommended to check product certificates and material compliance with sanitary and fire safety standards.

Surface preparation of panel walls for thermal insulation

Before insulating the walls of a panel house with the selected material, it is necessary to prepare them with the preliminary purchase of appropriate tools. But first, you need to determine the source of heat loss through the wall panels. As a rule, residents of the lower floors suffer more from cold and dampness. The same applies to rooms located at the end of the building. Such places have the largest contact area of \u200b\u200bthe walls with the outside air and humidity.

Cold can penetrate into the room through the cracks of door and window openings, but the main cause of heat loss is poor-quality sealing or destruction of the material of interpanel seams. The main indicator of such a defect is the presence of mold traces in the corners of the ceiling or floor. In addition, the air in the room is constantly damp. Therefore, any insulation of panel walls should begin with sealing the joints between their elements. For this, special silicone-based mixtures are used.

It is recommended to insulate the panels during the warm season, preferably in summer. The walls must be dry. During internal insulation, their surface should be cleaned of paint, wallpaper and other decorative finishes. For outdoor work, the facade must also be cleaned and dried. These procedures are performed using hand and power tools: spatulas, scrapers, drills with attachments, industrial hair dryers, etc.

After cleaning the panel walls, they must be inspected for cracks, cracks, depressions and sagging. Bumps from the surface can be knocked down with a chisel, and the remaining defects found can be repaired with cement or plaster mortar. Before repair, problem areas should be primed for better adhesion of materials.

When minor defects of the panels are eliminated, it is recommended to check their surface with a two-meter rail. The gaps between the wall plane and the attached tool should not exceed 2-3 mm. But usually there are no problems, since the factory concrete products are initially flat. If necessary, you can perform a continuous leveling with a thin layer of putty.

At the last stage of preparing the walls, they need to be treated with a penetrating primer in 2-3 layers. The adhesive composition of the insulation on such a surface will hold much better. In case of internal thermal insulation, the wall should be treated with an antiseptic before priming to prevent the formation of mold. Each primer layer applied must be dry. After final drying, you can proceed to internal or external wall insulation in a panel house.

As mentioned above, the thermal insulation of the walls from the inside creates favorable conditions for condensation between the insulation and the inner surface of the wall. To minimize the risk of fungus formation for this reason, the layer of material should be sealed with a vapor barrier and provide the required heat transfer resistance at a minimum thickness. The thicker the insulation layer, the lower the temperature on the wall and the higher the probability of steam condensation. In addition, with internal insulation, door and window slopes of the outer walls require similar insulation.

Thermal insulation of panel walls with foam

For thermal insulation of panel walls, PSB-S-25 (35) foam plastic slabs are used, which have an increased density. They are fixed to the surface with special or tile adhesive, which should ensure maximum filling of the gap between the wall and the insulation.

After gluing, it is recommended to additionally fix all the plates on the wall with plastic disc dowels, the caps of which will firmly press the material to the base surface. Five dowels are enough for one plate. The coating must be airtight, therefore, the joints of the sheets must be tightly adjusted, and large gaps must be filled with polyurethane foam.

Then, a layer of glue should be evenly applied to the surface of the thermal insulation and a fiberglass reinforcing mesh with 3-6 mm cells should be pressed into it. After the mixture has dried, an adhesive leveling layer 2 mm thick should be applied to the coating, and the corners should be reinforced with a perforated galvanized profile.

When the glue is dry, the wall can be plastered for wallpapering, painting, or simply tiled.

Wall insulation with mineral wool

This insulation requires a wall frame. It can be made from U-shaped metal profiles or wooden beams. The step between the frame posts should be 2-3 mm less than the width of the insulation plates. This will allow the material to be held upright between the vertical bars. The density of mineral wool should be at least 75 kg / m 3.

Unlike foam, mineral wool is vapor-permeable. Therefore, after laying the insulation in the cells of the frame, the thermal insulation material must be sealed with a protective film. It is attached to a wooden frame with staple staples, and to a metal frame with double-sided tape. The vapor barrier canvases are installed with an overlap of at least 100 mm, their joints are located on the vertical frame elements and glued with a metallized tape. The film must have gaps on the floor, ceiling, openings and adjoining walls.

Places where the film is adjacent to pipes and electrical appliances must be carefully processed. For this, special liquid sealants are used. The composition is applied to the junction, the film is pressed against it, and then fixed with construction tape against displacement.

After completing the thermal insulation of the wall, you can finish it. Plasterboard sheets, plastic panels, wooden lining and other materials that can be attached to the frame with screws are used as a base coating.

Insulation of walls in a panel house with penofol

For internal wall insulation with this material, a wooden frame is needed, which allows using all its properties with maximum effect. Due to the fact that penofol has a foil coating, which has a high electrical conductivity, it is necessary to check the insulation of cables passing along the wall in order to avoid a short circuit. If necessary, they can be pulled in a protective crimped sleeve.

After making the frame, you should cut the penofol with a knife into canvases, and then attach them end-to-end to the wooden racks with staple brackets. Then you need to make another frame, leaving an air gap of 2 cm, and fix sheets or panels on it, which can later be putty, wallpaper or paint.

Thermal insulation of walls in a panel house from the outside

There are two main ways to insulate panel walls outside: dry and wet. Thermal insulation by the first method involves the installation of a special protective screen on the wall, which is called a "ventilated facade". Its basis is a frame made of metal, on which the insulation is fixed, and then the external cladding is made.

Wet insulation is a frameless installation of insulation on walls, followed by finishing with building mixtures. Usually these are different types of plaster, which can differ from each other in color, efficiency, relief and other advantages.

Work on the external insulation of the house begins with the repair of interpanel seams. They are cleaned of seals, old plaster, and then primed and dried. Then a new sealant is installed in the seams, the primer and putty are repeated.

The next stage is the preparation of the walls. They are cleaned of dirt and old coating. With the wet method of insulation, foam is most often used as a heat-insulating material. The technology of its installation is practically no different from the method described in the previous section. The only caveat is that building mixtures that are resistant to precipitation and temperature extremes should be used as a topcoat here to protect the insulation.

When using frame technology for insulating walls from the outside, basalt wool usually serves as a heat insulator, which is placed in the cells of the metal structure of the ventilated facade and sealed with a vapor barrier membrane. In this case, the outer skin of the frame can be made of profiled sheet, plastic panels, wood and other materials.

Watch a video about wall insulation in a panel house:

Summing up, I would like to add the following. We hope you have received the necessary information on how to insulate a panel wall in an affordable way. It became obvious that such work is better done outside, not inside the house. Finding performers for this business is not difficult. There are many construction companies that will insulate an apartment reliably, quickly and efficiently. But if your home has a low number of storeys, you can do all the work yourself, and spend the saved money on charity!

It is worth thinking about how to insulate a wall in a corner apartment from the inside before the onset of winter frosts. Many, especially residents of the northern regions, are well aware that it is not worth relying on a home heating system. Therefore, it is best to prepare tools and materials in advance and insulate the corner apartment yourself. Moreover, this is not as difficult as it seems.

Why insulate corner-type apartments?

Despite the rapid growth in the number of modern residential complexes, many Russians still live in obsolete "Khrushchevs". These buildings are distinguished by old heating systems and cannot withstand sudden weather changes. First of all, residents of corner apartments suffer from this. With the first cold snaps, it becomes cold in their homes, because cool air very quickly penetrates the cracks in the walls of buildings. Another important reason for the need to install insulation lies in the layout of corner apartments. In them, the street is bordered by not one, but two walls, which further aggravates the situation of the residents. In such situations, even the presence of batteries and additional heaters does not save the inhabitants.

Due to severe frosts, the corners of the adjacent walls of the room freeze over. As a result, plaster and wallpaper leaves the surface, which causes mold and mildew. It becomes very damp in the corner rooms, and an unpleasant odor forms, which interferes with normal life. Unable to withstand such conditions, sooner or later people ask themselves the question: "How to insulate a corner bedroom or living room?" With this necessary procedure, you can not only make your stay more comfortable, but also save on heating. Plus, the residents of the house will be protected from dangerous fungi that cause asthma and other respiratory diseases.

Choosing a material - mineral wool or foam?

Today, in order to, there are tons of different materials. They are classified into those intended for outdoor installation and those intended for indoor installation. It is worth remembering that there is no universal material, because each of the heaters has its own advantages and disadvantages. Among the main requirements for materials are:

high thermal conductivity;
air tightness;
the ability to absorb moisture;
appropriate environmental friendliness;
fire resistance;
long service life.

Using the lathing

To have an idea of \u200b\u200bthe properties of the most popular materials, it is worth considering each of them in more detail. Mineral wool has long been considered the most demanded insulation. The main raw material for the production of this insulation is basalt. The material is one of the products with a low degree of flammability. Even if the product starts to burn, it does not emit pungent smoke that can somehow harm a person.

Installation of mineral wool does not require skills. This material is very pliable and ductile, it is tightly pressed against the wall and does not lag behind it for a long time. However, after a certain time, the cotton wool absorbs moisture and begins to deform. In addition, as a result of research, it was revealed that the material contains a small proportion of substances that have a bad effect on the human respiratory tract. Among other disadvantages, it is worth highlighting the large mass of the product, which makes its installation alone difficult.

Another popular material is polystyrene foam, or, as it is also called, expanded polystyrene. This is polystyrene well beaten with a powerful mixer, cooled to low temperatures. The prices for this product are very low, and the installation does not require skills and large physical costs. The lion's share of the composition of the material is ordinary air, so it is absolutely harmless to the health of residents. This insulation is one of the few that can be used both for work outside and inside the building. The reason is resistance to temperature extremes from -170 to +60 ° C.

Insulation can be mounted on various surfaces. This does not require the use of special fasteners. Another advantage of the material is its long service life. In addition to the advantages, the insulation has its disadvantages. So, the material cannot be used for installation in a wooden building, since it generates a large amount of condensate inside it. However, the product works great in a brick building or in buildings built from concrete blocks.

Installation of insulation inside a panel building - where to start?

Material installation details may vary slightly depending on the type of building. The first option that we will consider is panel construction. So that in the rooms of a corner apartment, first of all, it is necessary to clean the surfaces. Therefore, it is best to mount the material just before making cosmetic or major repairs. As soon as the surfaces are cleaned, proceed with the installation of waterproofing in the form of special polymer membranes. In the overwhelming majority of cases, their role is played by polyethylene films with a thickness of no more than 0.3 mm.

Insulation of the apartment from the inside

When stretching waterproofing, it is very important to set the material as accurately as possible, without leaving any section of the wall open. To do this, select a membrane clearly in accordance with the area of \u200b\u200bthe apartment. If whole pieces of material are not commercially available, they can be purchased as wide strips. The next step will be the installation of a wooden or metal crate. An important nuance - if the structure is made of wood, it will need to be treated with an antiseptic before installation. The distance between the battens of the sheathing should not be less than the width of one unit of insulation.

So, if you bought polyurethane foam plates with a width of 2 m, then the distance between the partitions of the structure should also be 2 m.This way you can install the insulation without leaving gaps

Installation of insulation

After the installation of the battens, it's time to install the insulation material. Most products are produced in the form of mats, one side of which is springy. When you squeeze the material, it contracts, and then immediately returns to its original shape. This makes the installation of the insulation much easier. After installation, the surfaces of the material are tightened with a vapor barrier. It will insulate the walls and insulation from condensation. At this stage, you also need to try to act as accurately as possible, without leaving cracks or grooves. For greater reliability, sealant should be applied at the joints of the vapor barrier.

Installing material in a brick building - tips for amateurs

The process of installing insulation inside a brick building has its own characteristics and is slightly different from the insulation of rooms in a panel building. At the same time, there should not be any special difficulties in the process of work. Since expanded polystyrene is considered the most popular material for this type of work, we will consider the algorithm of work using this particular insulation as an example.

Warming with expanded polystyrene

First of all, you need to properly prepare the surface of the brick wall. If there is no plaster on it, then it must be applied. If you start installing insulation in an already living room, then dismantle the wall decoration and putty before installing. Smooth the surface of the walls if necessary, seal up any gaps and cracks and apply a primer that will penetrate the shallowest and deepest pores. It is important that the primer contains substances with antiseptic properties.

In the next step, thin out the glue. This is done strictly according to the instructions for use of the composition. We apply the mixture to the surface of the walls with a smooth spatula, after which we work through the layer with a tool with teeth. Without waiting for the glue to dry, we take sheets of expanded polystyrene and in turn apply them to the wall, pressing and holding tightly for several seconds. It makes no sense to use dowels for fixing the insulation, since the glue will perfectly hold the material on the wall.

We mount plates without gaps

When installing each plate, make sure that there are no gaps between them! Remember that the tighter the material is installed, the warmer it will be in your apartment. Further actions depend only on your plans. If you are planning to put putty on top of the insulation, first you need to prime the surface. If plaster is to be applied, a reinforcing mesh must be installed.

Styrofoam grades are the most popular insulation

In stores you can find not one, but several brands of expanded polystyrene at once. Depending on the method of production of the material, you can find the inscriptions "PS" and "PSB" on the packages. The first one means that the material was made by a press method, and the second one - without a press. In addition to these markings, numbers are also on the foam packages. What do they mean?

So, S-15 Is a very dense material produced by the non-pressing method. This foam is great for outdoor use in multi-storey buildings; it is often used for insulating attics and roofs. Among its properties, it is worth highlighting environmental friendliness, high moisture resistance and fire resistance. S-25 PSB - This is another insulation made by a pressless method. Such foam is great for installation in corner apartments, as it has all the qualities necessary for this. In addition, this type of polystyrene foam is often used to insulate floors and loggias.

Polyfoam grade S-35 PSB

If there are a large number of communications in the walls, or their installation is only planned, then for better insulation it is worth choosing a foam brand S-35 PSB... A great advantage of the material is its resistance to bad weather conditions. It is absolutely not afraid of mechanical damage and has high refractoriness rates. The most dense is the brand expanded polystyrene S-50 PSB... It is often used in regions where hail falls and strong winds blow. Such insulation is not afraid of precipitation, condensation or mechanical damage. True, its cost is quite high.

Mineral foam - how to decide?

This material is also in high demand due to its performance and reliability. However, not all of its brands are suitable for certain jobs. So, cotton wool with markings P-75 will be an excellent insulation in corner apartments. She is not afraid of moisture and fire. However, if this material is not laid correctly, it deforms very quickly due to its ability to absorb condensate vapors. Mineral wool P-125 denser and stronger than the first type. It is often installed outside brick and concrete buildings in regions with mild climates. However, it is completely unsuitable for use in buildings located in the northernmost regions of Russia. Another disadvantage of this material is its high cost.

Cotton stamps PPZh-200 and PZh-175 differs in high density and rigidity. She is not afraid of temperature fluctuations, the influence of frequent precipitation. The only drawback is the large mass of the plates. To insulate a house, 3-4 people are required. As for the manufacturers of the material, the products of the companies are considered to be of the highest quality. Isover, Ursa, Rockwool and Isorok.