Home table with your own hands. We make a picnic table with our own hands: step by step instructions
A poorly designed dining table is best remembered. One that is too low or too high, under which there is not enough free legroom, on which there is not enough space. In order to help you design a table that will only be remembered for its attractive appearance, we will list the basic standards here.
TABLE HEIGHT. Distance from the floor to the top surface of the lid. Usually it is 68–76 cm.
SPACE ABOVE THE LEGS. The distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the drawstring is vertical legroom. The minimum distance is 60 cm.
KNEE SPACE. The distance from the edge of the table to the leg is the space for the knees when the chair is pulled up to the table. The minimum distance is from 36 to 40 cm, the optimal one is 36–46 cm.
SPACE ABOVE THE HIPS. The distance from the seat to the lower edge of the drawstring is the vertical space for the hips when a person sits on this chair, pushed up to the table. Minimum - 15 cm.
ELBOW SPACE. Side space on the table for each seated. The minimum is 60 cm, but 75 cm is much better.
HAND DEPTH. Front space on the table for each seated. Less than 30 cm will be small, and more than 45 cm - too much.
CHAIR SPACE. The distance from the edge of the tabletop to the wall is sufficient to push the chair back when getting up from the table. The architects say that a minimum of 90 cm is needed, and 110 cm would be the best option.
Table with king belt
When you hear the word "table", don't you think of a flat panel with four legs? Don't you think of just such a table, as drawn here? Yes, this design is the most original of the original. In the simplest version, a table - a typical design - consists of only three types of parts: legs, drawers and a lid (tabletop). The legs and the tsarg belt form a strong, but nevertheless open support structure. Structurally, many tables are drawbar tables, although we rarely call them that. Much more often they are called according to their functional purpose or their location: dining, kitchen, bedside, desk. Scrolling through the book further, you will come across the original designs of various tables, and many of them will return to this "basic" table. Such a table, as a rule, can be found in the kitchen or dining room. Its massiveness gives the impression of strength. Although the legs are quite massive, the chiseled profile visually reduces their massiveness. In addition, the individual dimensions of the legs make them ideal for strong carpentry joints. Despite the simplicity of the design of the table with the tsarg belt, many of its variations are possible. The table can be round, square, oval, rectangular. Its legs can be square, chiseled, tapered or carved. Even the kings can influence the look of the table.
Design Options
For example, a round table with the same chiselled legs as the base table looks completely different. This excellent look is given to it by a square tsarg belt with a round lid. Despite the elegant cabriole legs of the table in the style of Queen Anne, the massive sides make it a work table. The cut-out drawers at the third table make a significant visual and practical difference, making the table appear lighter and taller and providing more room for the seater's hips.
Country style table
This table is called in different ways - a country-style table, a retro-style table, a bar table - and they represent it differently. Furniture researchers usually describe it as a simple, low, oblong table on a massive underframe with turned legs and prongs. Prolegs, especially as strong as in the figure, significantly increase the durability and rigidity of the structure. With intensive daily use, prongs can increase the life of the table by years. The terms "country" and "bar" are definitely associated with the XVII-XVIII centuries, when such tables were widely used in hotels, taverns and bars in rural areas and towns. The surviving examples of such tables do have massive legs - although they are badly worn out by many legs. The table shown here is equipped with one middle prong instead of two longitudinal ones, so that it is more convenient to sit at the table. However, many early tables had pro-legs around the perimeter. The design is uncomplicated. The drawers and prolegs are spiked into the legs with reinforcement with wedges, dowels, etc. The table cover is a wide panel “in the tip”.
Design Options
The easiest way to change the design of a table is to change the legs. Our "original" table has round legs - turned - and the form of turning can be changed endlessly. Just remember that you will need a flat, rectangular surface for the side-leg joints. At a country-style table, you can also change the legs - both in appearance,
and their configuration, as shown in the figure below.
Table with drawer belt and drawer
The name "table with a king belt" refers rather than to style, but to construction. This type of table is the base for kitchen, library, desks, etc. Even for a workbench. A drawer or two adds to the functionality of the table, since the tools that are used when using it can be stored in these drawers. In some cases, a small box is enough, in others, the largest possible one is required. There are only a couple of ways to include such a box in the design. The simplest approach is to simply cut a box opening in the drawer. For a relatively small box and a fairly massive drawer side, it is quite suitable. If the opening turns out to be so large that it creates a danger of destruction of the board, then it is better to replace the drawer with box bars. The bars can be rotated 90° so that their width matches the thickness of the leg. Studded joints provide rigidity. A design with two - supra-jaw and under-jaw - bars is preferable, since the top bar will prevent the legs from moving inward.
Design Options
Installing a drawer in a round table is quite possible. But if the tsar's belt has a square or rectangular shape, then one must be prepared that access to the inside of the box will be limited. If the drawer belt is rounded, then the front panel of the drawer should be made in such a way (for example, a layered-bent or block-glued construction) so that its shape matches the shape of the drawer side.
An alternative to a table with a leg at each corner is a table on one central leg. Its tabletop is attached to a central post mounted on low, flared legs. Here, the drawers are not structurally required, but some single-support tables have them. At first glance, a table without legs and a drawer side gives unlimited legroom. However, although it does have a lot of knee and hip room, its "creeping" legs usually get in the way of the feet of the seated person. This is the price of stability: the projection of the tabletop should not exceed the area of support by more than 15 cm. A little more - and you risk tipping the table, leaning on the edge. Critical to this design is the strength of the center post and its connection to the base or legs. The table shown here has an oval top and - in accordance with the major and minor axis of the oval - two pairs of legs of different lengths. The legs are connected to the racks tapering downwards, and the racks with the tabletop brackets are connected with double spikes into the eyes. These intermediate assemblies, in turn, are glued onto a square-core lath and form a central support that expands upwards.
The table on a support appeared in the 18th century as a small coffee table with a three-legged base. To make a dining table, carpenters combined two single-legged tables or placed an oblong tabletop on two three-legged supports. Modern models range from the simplest utilitarian to multi-rack. The structural advantage of multi-column supports is increased resistance to warping. Although the area of support may be noticeably smaller than the projection of the table top, a large table with this type of support can be quite stable due to the mass of the support.
Put a wide board on the goats - and you get a table. This is the ancestor of the trestle table, which is perhaps the very first type of table. Since ancient times, its form has improved significantly, but it remains an easy-to-make collapsible table. Its elementary form remains a panel or sheet of plywood on a free-standing trestle. And when the trestle stops being free standing, that's when the assembly becomes a table, because they have to be connected to each other, to the top, or both. In the table shown here, each half of the goat consists of a fairly wide stand, cut into the leg at the bottom, and at the top into the table top bracket. The wider the trestles, the better the table resists rocking from side to side. A long massive proleg is cut into the racks. The tabletop is fastened with screws to the goats, and the structure becomes one. Although there is enough legroom under the tabletop, do not forget about the leg so that, while sitting at the table, you do not get bumps on your shins. Also, the ends of the tabletop should protrude 35-45 cm beyond the goats to provide enough space for those sitting there. Many trestle tables are designed to be collapsible. Common ways of attaching folding table parts are shown on the next page.
Design Options
Thinking about the shape of the legs and legs of the goat is the easiest way to change the look of this table. Several examples are shown here. The original goats looked like saw goats, and the X-shape was quite popular in medieval Europe. The Pennsylvania Germans and other Germanic settlers brought this form to America, and it is still commonly found at picnic tables. Today, the most common is the H-shape. Shakers (sectarians-shakers), who made many tables on the goats, usually used graceful legs "with a high rise"
The familiar dining table can be extended with an additional cover board. Then an ordinary family table can be enlarged to receive guests. At first glance, it may not be noticeable that this is a standard table with a drawstring belt, cut into two parts and reconnected using special skids. The skids can be bought ready-made or made together with the table. Each cloth of the table top must be at least 60 cm - the optimal place for one seated person.
Design Options
The design of the extendable table can vary, as usual, by changing the legs and side. The shape of the drawer side and the tabletop has practically no effect on the overall design. If we are talking about a table with drawers, then they work with the sliding version as usual. As the extension limits increase, it may be necessary to add an additional leg to support the middle section. And do not forget about the importance of small details - for example, fastening the drawer side to the tabletop
Extendable table on one leg
A table on one support is the basic form of a table that has some advantages over a table with a drawstring belt. If you need a folding table, don't forget to consider this shape as well. It is quite possible to make such a table both sliding and folding, and a folding cover that will expand it. The most common option is a sliding lid with an insert section. As shown on the next page, the cover is divided in two and its halves are connected by special sliding skids. Thus, these two cover sheets can be moved apart and an additional board can be inserted between them. What to do with the support is the key question for the master. For the table to be stable, the size of the lid and the area of support must be close. In the example shown, the support is vertically divided into two parts, each of which is fastened to a respective lid web. When the lid is pulled apart, the support also separates.
Design Options
The basic form has a support that separates when the table is extended. This is not the only option. If a relatively small, say, 30-40 cm, expansion is acceptable, then an extendable table can also be made on a non-dividing support. Another option is to make a table on two supports. A table with a support for each sliding half can expand by 90–120 cm.
When choosing one of the types of folding tables, one of the most interesting designs is the system with sliding sections. It is simple to manufacture and use. There is nothing out of the ordinary about the basic structure of the table. The only difference from the usual underframe made of drawers and legs is the presence of slots in the end drawers. The difference lies on top of the drawstrings and legs. Instead of attaching the table top to the drawstring belt, its side sections, attached to long tapering runners, are stacked on top of the drawer legs assembly. The runners correspond to the slots in the sides. The existing central board separating the side sections is fixed with screws on the sides. The table top is laid on top of the central board and side sections, but is not fixed tightly. When unfolding the table, the side section simply slides out from under the lid. The skids have stops to prevent the section from being extended too far. When pulled out, the lid will tilt a little at first, but when fully unfolded, it will be flush with the side section. Since the pull-out sections are part of the design, you won't have to search for them in the closets and storerooms when you need to lay out the table before the guests arrive. You simply slide out a section or two - even if the table is already set.
Design Options
The drawer system can be combined with any type of table support provided that the drawer side is available. Thus, a trestle table or a two-leg table (as in the figure on the right), equipped with drawers, can have retractable sections to increase the number of seats. However, the system is not well suited for countertops with non-rectilinear shapes. When folded, the side section retracts under the cover and its edges remain (or should remain) visible. If the shape is different from the shape of the lid, then the table will probably look rather odd when folded. For example, a semi-circular side section under a square or rectangular lid will create a gap between the lid and the sides.
Two-leg table with sliding
sections
A table with a sliding folding lid (table top) is relatively rare. Despite the low prevalence, this is an excellent system. The table has one additional section - a duplicate of the "main" cover, this section is connected to the cover using hinges and, when folded, lies on the main section (cover). To unfold the table, the “double” tabletop is moved to its extreme position (up to half of the underframe), and then the additional section leans back onto the underframe. The upper edges of the tsarg should be covered with felt or felt to facilitate the sliding of the lid. It is not difficult to make a sliding mechanism. Each skid has a ridge that fits into a groove in its guide. The disadvantage is that during periods of high humidity, the ridges can stick in the grooves. The basic version is usually configured as a side table. In the unfolded state, the edges of the tabletop are quite far from the base, which creates enough space under the table for those seated. The U-shape of the legs will provide enough legroom for those sitting at the ends of the table.
Design Options
When folded, this table looks like a somewhat odd dining table. To limit the overhang of the tabletop over the underframe (ensuring stability), the size of the base part should approach the size of the folded tabletop. Therefore, a folding tabletop should be used on a type of table that does not look odd if the tabletop has a small overhang. Good uses for this include a side table (as a base), a side table (shown here) and other special purpose tables and tables. These tables, when folded, can be placed close to the wall. Folding covers are usually used in traditional card tables, but without a sliding mechanism. Nevertheless, the sliding mechanism is suitable here as well.
A table with a folding board (or boards) is practically the “generic” name for all tables in which sections of the table top are connected by hinges. It is a common sight and has been present throughout American history. In any furniture style, from the style of the times of William and Mary to the modern one, you will find a table with a folding board. In this table, folding boards are part of the design. When not in use, they can be lowered to a vertical position, saving room space. There are many ways to keep the flaps in the raised position. The example shown here uses pull-out holders - you lift the board and pull out the support brackets from under it (much like a drawer). For some other support systems, see a table with swivel frame supports, with swivel legs on a book table, and several card tables. The main thing to consider for this type of table is the width of the folding boards, which can be optimally supported by extendable or swivel/articulated arms. Make relatively narrow folding boards - say, no wider than 38 cm. For wider sections - see options with swivel frame supports or swivel legs. A long folding board, like the example shown here, will require more than one bracket. By the way, this example received an interesting name in the 20th century, which is applied to a relatively long utility table with hinged covers. This name, which can be translated as "suffering", creates in consciousness a picture of a large spread out table, filled with food for hungry seasonal agricultural workers during the harvest season. Regardless of what we call it now, people who sat at such a table in the year 1840 or 1880 probably called it a folding table or folding table.
Design Options
While a basic dining table is quite long and relatively narrow, with a rectangular top with sharp corners, a drop-down table can come in almost any size, proportion, and shape. The table top (tabletop) can have folding boards of a rounded or slightly rounded shape. On a shortened or square base, you can install a round, square or oval tabletop. You can round the corners of the folding sections or make their outer edges curved.
Table-book - the Russian name for a table with swivel frame supports, which are hinged to the assembly of the tsarga-leg-leg. The support post is connected to the turntable by the upper and lower crossbars. The whole support can be rotated so that the raised folding section (board) can be placed on it. The swivel bearing became the forerunner of the swivel leg. It has many structural elements reflecting the state of carpentry in the 16th century when it appeared. But like any well-made frame, it is structurally rigid and makes an excellent support for a folding board. Although the first such tables usually had two frame supports (one for each folding board), there were often tables with one folding board and one swivel support, and it happened the other way around - there were several leviathans with 12 swivel supports. When folded, the tables were generally very narrow and save space. If they turn towards each other, then with the folding boards lowered, the support legs of the frames will be located next to the main legs, visually making them more massive. When rotated away from each other, the support legs will sit side by side, giving the impression of a table with six legs. The first tables were usually made in the Baroque style, with a complex chiseled profile of the legs. However, the example shown is completely modern.
Design Options
A significant advantage of the book table is the ability to support very large additional sections. A solid support under the flap makes the table very stable even with one section raised. Thus, it is difficult to make a very narrow table with wide folding boards. When folded, the table takes up very little space. Unfolded - has a huge tabletop
This table can rightly be called a table with folding boards, but the swivel leg makes it stand out from others like it. The swivel leg is a descendant of the frame swivel support (see page 158). If the swivel support is attached to the table frame, consisting of the drawer side, legs and proleg, then the swivel leg is attached only to the drawer side. The result is a lighter appearance. Rather, the size, rather than the knot of the swivel leg, is characteristic of this table. The tabletop diameter of only 107 cm will be quite comfortable for four people. The swivel leg is used in card tables with small folding tops. During the Queen Anne period, a smaller version of the table shown here was called the "breakfast table" and was used both for breakfast and for games and tea parties. Larger tables will likely need additional swivel legs for better support for flip boards. The swivel - actually a wooden hinge - makes the swivel leg workable. A sleeker version than shown here makes the connection look like a metal loop.
Design Options
The design of a swivel leg for a table with folding boards appeared in the first half of the 18th century. Although we chose a Queen Anne style table as our "basic" table, the swivel leg has been used in a variety of table styles. The profile of the stem will typically be the style indicator. Chippendale-style swivel-leg tables often have convertibles, but always with a claw-ball finish. Square shaped legs are also used in chippendale tables. During the federal
Hepplewhite tables were made with legs tapering downwards, as shown here, and Sheraton style tables were made with chiseled, often embossed, legs.
Folded out folding boards transform
rectangular table to square
The advantage of a table with a frame swivel base over a table with a swivel leg is the stability provided by the additional legs. When the folding boards are raised, they are supported by additional legs. A table with extendable legs also has this advantage over a table with swivel legs, but it also has one advantage over a table with frame swivel legs. Like a table with swivel legs, this table has an additional leg for each folding board. But only a narrow crossbar connects the leg to the table. These crossbars are placed in a holder of two guides installed between the longitudinal drawers, and are extended through cutouts in the drawers. The leg is attached to the crossbars. Raise the folding board, extend the leg and lower the board onto it. You have a leg under the flip board and still have four legs under the fixed table top. This structure can hold very wide folding boards.
Design Options
Here are two very different tables with retractable legs, each of which has excellent stability due to the extra leg (or legs) when unfolded. When the card table is folded up against the wall, the extra leg is not conspicuous. By unfolding the game table and extending the extra leg, you will get a support under each corner of the table top. Ideally. Extendable legs also make a great addition to a long table with folding boards. If you make two retractable legs for each board, then the table will not lose stability when someone leans too hard on it.
The table-chair owes its birth to medieval practicality. In the Middle Ages, dwellings were small and drafty. Any furniture was expensive, everything was done with hand tools. And if a piece of furniture could perform more than one function - well, so much the better. The table-chair is clearly universal. With the lid down, it's a table. With the lid up - the seat. And as with most universal things, its functionality is far from perfect. With the development of the furniture industry, the table-chair became more perfect in design and elegant in appearance. The item shown here has legs and armrests attached to the sides of the seat with spike-in-socket joints. The pronounced end of the shoe-shaped legs make the chair more stable, and the armrests more comfortable. The chair even has a drawer under the seat - more sophisticated storage than a box with a lid. The tabletop is fastened with a dovetail tie-in.
Table - furniture without which you can not do either in the city or in the country. The table can be placed on the veranda, in the gazebo or just in a shady place. Behind him you can dine, arrange feasts or play board games in the fresh air. Inexpensive, you can only buy a plastic, not large table, a large wooden table for giving is cheaper to do it yourself. The article will present three options for tables and drawings for their manufacture.
Table dimensions and construction features
The optimal size of the tabletop for a summer house is 80x120 cm. A smaller table will be significantly inferior in functionality, a large table will be too bulky and it will be difficult to clean it for the winter. The size of the table 80x120 cm will allow you to hold solemn feasts with the number of participants 8 - 10 people.
A table for a summer residence is easiest to make from boards. In addition, it is the most accessible and inexpensive material. The advantage of making a wooden table is that the boards can be sawn to the desired size at any construction base, and brought to the dacha without any problems, thereby saving on transportation. It should be noted that with a table dimensions of 75x80x120 cm, the longest board will be a table top board 120 cm long. A board of this length will fit into almost any car.
There are a lot of varieties of table designs, but by and large the difference is only in the form of legs on which the table top rests. Therefore, the legs of the table are the most complex element of the entire structure.
Table top
The tabletop at the table in the country is made of boards. The thickness of the boards can be from 30 to 50 mm. However, the best option is a board with a thickness of 40 mm.
An important point is cutting boards. With a worktop length of 120 cm, you need 5.3 boards 150 mm wide, 6.6 boards 120 mm wide and 8 boards 100 mm wide. Considering that the boards are sold with a length of just over 6 m, it is advisable to choose a board with a width of 100 mm for the countertop.
By choosing a board with a width of 100 mm, you will not have to adjust or resize the table top, which will greatly simplify the work on setting up the table. In addition, there will be 2 more boards 120 mm long, which can be used for other parts.
If you can’t get the right board, you can make the countertop not solid, but at intervals. Such a countertop will look no less interesting. At the same time, water that can accumulate on a table with a solid top will drain through the gaps between the boards.
Table with straight legs
A table with straight legs is the simplest design of a table for a summer residence. This is a stable, comfortable table that will serve well both indoors and outdoors.
Fig.1.
The legs for the table consist of 4 elements, 2 vertical posts and 2 horizontal ones. The upper horizontal rack is attached to the tabletop, the lower one is a support.
Fig.2.
Leg design may vary. For example, instead of resting on the bottom board, you can make sure that the support is on vertical posts, and the bottom board can be made as an additional one for strength.
Pay attention to this design, the connection of the boards is carried out without additional grooves. This greatly simplifies the assembly of the table. In order for all elements to be well fixed, it is necessary to glue all joints with wood glue. In this case, the boards can be connected with self-tapping screws.
Fig.3.
- Collect legs. To do this, you need to saw according to the drawing of the board. Treat the joints with glue and tighten with self-tapping screws or a confirmant.
- On a flat area, lay out the boards for the table top, mark the position of the legs and fix the boards of the table top through the top bar of the legs.
- Install a horizontal tie between the legs.
- Wait 2 - 3 hours until the glue dries and clean the table from burrs and sharp edges.
- Next, the table can be varnished. Or just treat with an antiseptic.
Table with X shaped legs
A table with X-shaped legs is essentially not much different from a table with straight legs, it just has a different shape of the legs. However, it is impossible to manufacture without creating additional grooves on the legs. This makes the job a little more difficult.
Fig.4.
Table legs consist of 3 elements. Two crossed supports and a vertical top bar. The top bar, as in the previous case, is necessary for fixing the table top.
Fig.5.
To connect the legs in inclined supports, it is necessary to make a slot in the floor of the board.
Fig.6.
The assembly order of the table is as follows:
- Cut the boards to the required length.
- In the legs make a groove in the floor of the board. The groove can be made with a jigsaw or a milling cutter.
- Collect legs. The connections are glued. Parts are fastened with self-tapping screws.
- The tabletop boards are laid out and the assembled legs are attached to them.
- Install the bottom screed board.
- Treat the table from burrs and varnish.
Table with benches
A table with benches is quite often installed on verandas or in the open air. Unlike the designs described above, it does not require additional benches or chairs, the benches are included in the design of the table.
Fig.7.
The disadvantage of this version of the table for the country house is that the design turns out to be rather cumbersome, and it becomes very problematic to remove it for the winter.
Fig.8.
The design feature of the table is that the benches are fixed directly on the legs of the table. The crossbars on which the benches are attached are at the same time a coupler of the legs, and the benches play the role of a longitudinal coupler.
Fig.9.
The assembly order of the table with benches is as follows:
- Cut boards to desired length.
- Assemble the legs and support for the flooring of the bench. The joints are glued and tightened with self-tapping screws.
- Mark the boards for the countertop and mount them to the legs.
- Fix benches.
- Treated with impregnation or antiseptic.
Examples of tables for giving
Fig.10.
Fig.11.
Fig.12.
Fig.13.
Fig.14.
Fig.15.
Fig.16.
Fig.17.
This piece of furniture is one of the most versatile in use. The table can be a dining table, household table, installed in a living room, on a veranda, territory, in a workshop, and so on. In a word, it is impossible to do without it. But purchased products do not suit many for a number of parameters - size, design features, shape, or for another reason.
Given that the tree is relatively easy to cut, grind, make a table out of it according to your own drawing, with your own hands for a good owner is not a problem. Yes, and it will be much cheaper. Plus - satisfaction from such work.
room
This is ideally an extension, a barn, an empty garage, although a small area under a canopy is also suitable. To work with a tree on a site, in the open air, means to be completely dependent on the vagaries of the weather. If there are “square meters” suitable for making furniture, then you should worry about high-quality ventilation in advance. Natural is sometimes not enough (besides, it depends on the change in wind direction and pressure), and an exhaust hood is installed.
Arguments that if you use protective equipment, then you can work in a closed space, do not stand up to scrutiny. Wood dust will immediately settle on everything, including the sample with which some actions are performed. Neither an accurate cut along the line, nor a high-quality surface treatment of wood (not to mention the impregnation and finish coating with a paint and varnish composition) can not be obtained.
It is impossible not to take into account the fact that many preparations used for wood processing contain toxic components. For example, varnishes, paints, impregnations, if they are not natural, then harmful fumes are guaranteed.
Instruments
Their set depends on the extent to which it is planned to “ennoble” a simple wood structure, what shape to give it and a number of other nuances. If the master does not claim the elegance of a wooden table, does not aim to achieve its originality, then the usual carpentry set will be enough.
For more “fine” work in the process of making a table of unusual shapes, external design, special devices will be needed.
El / jigsaw. With a conventional saw, it will not work to make an inclined vertical cut, accurately maintaining the angle. The canvas will “play”, and therefore the quality of the work will be extremely low. The electric jigsaw is universal in use, besides it gives high accuracy in cutting wood or cuts in it.
Many of the listed fixtures can be rented if furniture making is not a hobby, but a necessity.
Impregnation and other compounds
Rotting protection:
- Working off engine oil is an effective, moreover, free tool. But not for dinner tables.
- Linseed oil. A natural and effective product that penetrates deep into the wood structure and protects it from mold and mildew. Minus - high cost. But if the table is intended for eating - a great option. The drug has no color, therefore, after processing the lumber, it does not leave any traces in the form of darkening, stains, streaks, unlike mining.
- The emulsion is water-polymer. It is characterized by duration of action and safety for health.
- Acrylic varnishes. They practically replaced their predecessors of the "NC" category, as they are harmless and in many respects better than compounds that are diluted with solvents.
- PVA, bone glue and a number of others. More detailed information about carpentry compositions -.
To decorate a tree:
- Colorless varnishes are used not only to protect the material from moisture. With their help, you can save the texture of the tree, shade it.
- Wood stains.
- Varnishes with a coloring effect (toning).
- Paints (but only for wood!).
- Putties.
Using a colorless varnish and pigments, you can make a coloring composition, and any shade. It is enough just to correctly determine the proportion of components. This is easy to do by experimenting with mixing and applying a sample to a rejected board. This will allow you to choose an acceptable tone. More than expedient, since it is not always possible to buy exactly what you need on the market.
Fasteners
All tips for assembling a wooden table with nails (the argument is simple, fast and cheap) are best ignored. The reasons are as follows:
- A nail easily pricks a dry tree (and this is exactly what is taken; more on that below).
- Correctly directing his leg (strictly vertically) is quite difficult. In some cases, it is even more difficult to redo your oversight.
- A tree, even the most protected from rot, eventually succumbs to it. The maintainability of a table knocked down with nails is extremely low. Practice shows that it is rarely possible to remove such fasteners without damaging adjacent structural parts. As a result, instead of the planned replacement of one element, 2 - 3 will have to be changed.
- When assembling a wooden table, if one glue is not enough, you should use only self-tapping screws.
- Sometimes its individual parts (at the joints) require reinforcement. It is not advisable to strengthen the strength with a hardware with a thicker and longer leg. The reason is the same - the probability of splitting the tree. For these purposes, metal strips, brackets, corners are used.
Features of the choice of wood
Someone focuses on the cost of lumber, another is important for the resistance of the tree to decay, for the third - its texture. What can you recommend to a novice furniture maker? Do not use for the table, unless it is intended to be installed somewhere in the back room or garage, the same type of wood. This is exactly what many novice "craftsmen" do, picking up the same type of boards and bars from what is left of the construction or repair and gathering dust in the barn.
When making a wooden table for living quarters, verandas, and so on, you need to take into account the properties of individual species. Naturally, if there is not enough experience in assembling furniture, you should pay attention to cheaper wood. The first table (chair, stool) in life is just a kind of training in manufacturing, gaining experience.
Tabletop. Here in the first place - strength and minimal absorption of moisture. It is on this part of the table that something is constantly spilled. The best choice is pine, larch, oak (although the latter is more expensive). Thickness - at least 3 cm.If the dimensions of the countertop are small, then wood-based slab products (OSV and the like) can be used. But only with lamination to prevent swelling of the material when liquid enters the surface of the table. For example, LDSP.
In the furniture industry, low-grade lumber is not used. This is not economically feasible, since pre-treatment of wood increases the duration of the production cycle. But in the manufacture of something, wood of lower grades, substandard - just right. The same pallets left after using stacks of foam blocks or bricks.
And not just because it's free or relatively cheap. Many of the disadvantages of such wood with a competent approach can be turned into pluses. For example, after coating with a colorless varnish, the countertop acquires a unique original look.
The main thing is that the boards do not have obvious defects in the form of rot, cracks, falling knots and wormholes.
If pine is chosen for the countertop (this also applies to many other conifers), then you need to pay attention to the location of the annual rings. These arcs are called humpbacks. The cuts of the boards show how they are oriented, and this is taken into account in the process of laying them in a row. Samples obtained by the tangential sawing method are arranged in alternation (pink down, the next one up); radial cutting - the same way (with arcs in the same direction). The nuance is insignificant, but it is the observance of this recommendation that eliminates the risk of warping and splitting of the boards.
For furniture, if you think about its durability, you should take only dry lumber. During the drying of the wood, it will deform; this is a natural process, and its consequences in the form of twisting, warping, bending are inevitable. Such a table will quickly begin to warp, and you will have to deal with its repair. And here you need to decide whether to purchase high-dry wood or rid it of moisture yourself. The first option is simpler, but such a tree is more expensive. The second will cost less, but there are a number of purely technical difficulties.
- Firstly, it is necessary to ensure a stable temperature regime in the place where the blanks are stored. Changes in its value will lead to uneven evaporation of moisture, which will negatively affect the strength of the tree.
- Secondly, good ventilation must be organized.
- Thirdly, and, perhaps, this is the most unpleasant moment - you will have to wait, up to about six months, depending on the initial moisture content of the tree. But this is not a guarantee that the result will be expected; Even this takes practice.
This once again confirms the idea that when starting to make wood furniture for the first time, one should focus on the simplest table for household needs from cheap lumber, without pretensions to its sophistication and originality of design. For example, for a barn, garage and the like.
Variants and schemes of wooden tables
It should be noted right away that any work related to the design and self-assembly is a creative process. There are no stereotypes in this business, so you can only take the model you like as a basis, and everything else - linear parameters, shape, manufacturing specifics - depends on the purpose of the product and your own imagination. Here are just a few examples of what wooden tables can be. For example, for summer cottages, small utility rooms, it is worth choosing structures whose geometry can be easily changed - folding, hiking, hanging, garden, level, and so on.
Tables that are supposed to be used for eating, playing games, as coffee tables for installation in living rooms for a specific purpose, are made stationary, that is, of unchanging size. These assemblies are more “solid”, since all articulated parts are fixed rigidly; no articulated joints.
Features of the assembly of wooden tables
If a person undertakes to make something, then he knows how to use the tool, read the drawings and work with lumber. Such a home master does not need to be taught the basics of carpentry. But a number of nuances in the manufacture of a wooden table will be useful to note. These notes will only help in the process of work.
Let's start with the types of connections. There are quite a few of them, but for a table that is assembled with your own hands, the following are quite enough.
On dowels
In this case, the parts are fastened by landing on the adhesive composition (Fig. 1 - 3).
The nuance is that for the manufacture of "cylinders" that are inserted into pre-drilled "channels", a tree of a denser structure is taken than the elements of the table. This is what ensures the strength of the connections. Before installing them, chamfers are removed from the edges of the dowels and holes.
These round sticks are commercially available, in any furniture store, in several sizes. To grind them, even with a carpentry machine, is a waste of time. It is not recommended to purchase plastic dowels for the table; they are used for collapsible connections. For example, frame furniture (walls, multi-level racks, etc.).
Nails should not be used to fix table elements (Fig. 4). Metal and wood differ in the degree of thermal expansion. Such a connection will not last long - a “shat” will begin, especially if the table is intended for installation on the territory or in an unheated room.
On the tsargs
It is advisable to make such connections if the table has to be either periodically disassembled, or without it it cannot be moved through the doorway. Although not all kings involve the dismantling of the structure. The most practiced options are shown in the figures.
Bolted
Such connections are mainly used for garden or outbuilding furniture; for utility tables. An example is shown in the figure.
The nuance of working with fasteners
In order for the self-tapping screw to be easily screwed in and “go” in the right direction, a hole is first made at the point of its installation with a drill, with a diameter slightly smaller than the leg of the fastener. The main thing is to maintain the coincidence of the center lines, that is, to prevent skew. In this case, for the "landing" of the self-tapping screw, you can do without a screwdriver.
Features of wood processing
Everyone knows that a planer is used first, an abrasive with a large grain, and then a fine one. But sometimes it turns out that the last stage, grinding, has to be done repeatedly. Here much depends on the type of wood and the degree of its drying. After applying the first layer of varnish, the villi may “stand up”. Nothing wrong with that. You should wait for the workpiece to dry and repeat its processing with an abrasive. The work is painstaking and takes time. But it is by this technique that you can bring the "problem" wood to the ideal "smoothness".
To eliminate the risk of injury to a person, all edges and corners of the table should be slightly rounded.
Features of the exterior
- Minor defects in the form of cracks, chips are eliminated with a putty composition.
- After sanding, all wood dust must be removed. In this case, an ordinary household vacuum cleaner with an appropriate nozzle will help out. After such cleaning, it is recommended to wipe the entire table with a slightly damp cloth, let it dry and repeat the cleaning of the remaining dust. After that, you can safely proceed to applying stain or varnish - there will be no “pellets” on the tree.
- You can give originality to the table not only with the help of curly cutouts, an unusual shape of the tabletop or legs, a combination of textures of different species, and so on. One of the good options is art painting.
And finally. Work on the independent manufacture of something from wood (the same table) is just the initial stage in mastering the skill of the “assembly designer”. Having worked out the technologies, techniques on wood, having acquired the necessary skills, it is enough just to switch to other materials - metal, plastic, glass. So the benefits of a wooden table, made according to even the simplest drawing (except for the pleasure of work and the money saved) are obvious - not wasted time.
Natural wood is an attractive, but not the cheapest material. Making a wooden table with your own hands is more profitable than choosing a finished model (and in some cases easier than finding a table that would fit the rest of the situation). Due to the absence of manufacturing costs, you can afford not to save on the quality of raw materials.
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What kind of table can you make yourself?
Tables vary in design. Almost any model can be assembled by yourself with some woodworking skills, the right tools and instructions.
The complexity of manufacturing is determined by the purpose, shape and size of the table. From the “technological” side, any table consists of two structural parts: the upper part (the tabletop itself) and the legs.
Table types
Before you make a table with your own hands, you should decide on a suitable model and its features. The type of table will determine the choice of materials (solid wood or chipboard), finishes, as well as a set of tools that will be required for work.
A table on a single support is usually made with a rounded top.
Note!
Models on two legs, connected by a jumper for greater stability, are considered the most convenient.
The easiest way is to make a "classic" table on four legs - reliable and "understandable". At the same time, special attention is paid to the legs. In case of inconsistencies and errors during work, the upper part of the table can be hidden under the tablecloth, but the legs of the table will instantly “give out” hack work.
Types of countertops
The shape of the countertop is selected depending on the style of the room where the piece of furniture is planned to be placed. A round wooden table is suitable for a spacious rustic or Scandinavian style kitchen (the space should be large enough so that the furniture does not interfere with free movement). An oval table is a convenient option for a dining room. Small countertops of the same shape look great on or coffee tables.
Rectangular and wooden countertops are the easiest to make, besides this is a universal form suitable for any interior and a table of any functionality. In the same format, tables of complex designs are usually made, folding, portable or multifunctional. For example, if there is not enough space in the room, but a large number of guests are planned to be placed at the table from time to time, a compact assembled book table would be a good solution, which, if necessary, can be quickly turned into a dining table (by raising both “wings”) or a work table (by unfolding one side of the table).
Tools for the job
The full list of tools depends on the table format, as well as on the material chosen for work. In most cases you will need:
- or saw;
- or a screwdriver (and various drills for them);
- connecting elements (nails, screws and the like);
- wood sanding machine and;
- means for measuring and marking (pencil, ruler or tape measure);
- protective equipment during work (gloves and goggles).
It is unacceptable to work “by eye” according to approximate calculations - the result will turn out to be far from the desired one. You will also need drawings with the dimensions of each element of the table.
Table top material: chipboard
The thickness of a sheet of such material is usually 16 or 18 mm. For a dining table with massive legs, chipboard can be thin - the design will look disproportionate. It's best to splice two sheets of topping together to give the countertop "thickness". Along the perimeter of the tabletop, they are treated with an edge. The material is sold in hardware stores, it is most often made of plastic, and on one side it is covered with an adhesive base.
The edge on the tabletop is fixed with an iron. The edge is ironed with strong pressure and slowly enough so that the glue has time to melt. You will have to control the degree of melting by looking under the edge of the countertop - the composition will protrude from under the edge and slightly change color. A chipboard table with such an edge, if properly installed, will last a long time.
Wooden table
Table top material: wood
Solid wood is the most expensive of the materials, but also the most durable. It is better to choose hardwood for the table. The best option in terms of price-quality ratio would be a beech or a tree similar to it. Finishing the edge of the tabletop is a curly rail or a baguette. Wood is usually chosen for massive tables, the thickness of the tabletop (and the array) should be about 4.5-5 cm.
It is worth considering the peculiarity of natural wood: over time, it cracks, reacting to changes in humidity and temperature. When assembling the table, it is worth attaching a plywood “gasket” from a 10mm sheet under the main tabletop (the dimensions of the sheet should be 10 cm smaller than the dimensions of the table). It is on plywood with this design that the legs of the furniture will be attached. The table is guaranteed not to fall apart "from old age" even if the wood of the countertop cracks and requires restoration.
Countertop material: boards
Boards are an intermediate material for countertops both in terms of price and aesthetics. A plank table is suitable for a country house or country-style interior, and it is easier to assemble than a solid wood model.
For work, most often choose boards made of spruce or pine. Oak, walnut or birch boards are less commonly used. Their thickness should be the same, the length can be adjusted during the manufacture of the table.
Assembling the base model of the table
First, a frame is prepared that will hold the remaining elements. Four boards of equal length are placed at the same distance. Perpendicular to them lay out the end parts. The base is fixed with screws (self-tapping screws, nails or analogues). To make the frame stiffer and stronger, the other two sides are also reinforced with boards.
The tabletop is made of boards of equal length and width, which are fixed on the base.
Note!
The legs (in the basic version - ordinary blocks of wood) are fixed to the same nails or screws.
The final finishing of the table is carried out after assembly. Boards need to be sanded with a special machine or several types of sandpaper, if desired, the table is covered with stain, varnish or paint.
DIY table
Complex designs: folding picnic table
The folding table differs from the basic model primarily in the design of the legs. This part is technically the most difficult, however, it can be done "at home".
For the legs, you will need to prepare wooden bars (you need to leave a small “allowance” along the length). Any type of material is suitable for the countertop. In the event that the table is planned to be moved, it is worth choosing light and durable - for example, lacquered plywood or wood.
The saw cuts are edged, the legs and jumpers are rounded or cut at a right angle and polished (with a machine or sandpaper).
Folding table
How to assemble a folding table?
The legs are fastened with a bolt (not longer than 3.5 cm). The table is assembled according to the following scheme:
- fasten the legs and supporting elements;
- on the countertop, the attachment points of the support are marked (self-tapping screws are used for fastening);
- all structural elements are numbered to simplify the final assembly;
- final grinding of all surfaces is carried out;
- parts are covered with a protective compound;
- the table is going "clean".
Making a folding table with your own hands is ultimately no more difficult than assembling a basic model, although this will require accuracy in calculations and exact adherence to the drawings.
How to make a wooden table with your own hands video:
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One of the mandatory attributes of human habitation is a table. It should be in the apartment, and in the cottage, and the summer house in the country.
Making a wooden table with your own hands is not such a difficult task as it seems at first glance. A simple design that is suitable for a summer residence can be assembled by absolutely anyone, even if he first picked up a carpentry tool.
More complex models that will decorate the kitchen or living room will require creativity and certain skills, but this work is also doable if certain rules are followed.
Possible options
Despite its simplicity, the table is considered a variable product and, with the right approach, will organically fit into any room. Manufacturers of wooden furniture usually offer the consumer the following types of models:
- with the correct geometry - rectangular, round, oval;
- corner - help save interior space;
- transformers - multifunctional structures;
- folding and sliding - allow you to accommodate a large number of guests;
- "Books" - a common modification of a folding table.
It is noteworthy, but all of the listed options for tables can be made in artisanal conditions, literally from improvised materials.
Regardless of the design and shape, a homemade wooden table must meet two requirements. Firstly, to match the interior of the room, if you do not follow this rule, even a beautifully designed carved tabletop will look unpresentable. Secondly, the width of one seat must be at least 70 cm, otherwise people will experience discomfort.
Otherwise, the width and height are selected individually, depending on personal preferences and the intended use of the table.
Preparatory stage
Even a simple rectangular table with four legs cannot be made without some preparation. Let's figure out what the home master needs in the production process.
Blueprints
This is a prerequisite that will allow you to visualize the future table, determine the size and amount of material. Ready-made drawings can be searched on the Internet: many craftsmen willingly share the results of their work with Web users, describing in detail each stage of production.
If we are talking about a unique table design that you plan to create according to your own project, you cannot do without a drawing. You can draw a future model with a simple pencil on a regular notebook sheet. It is recommended to pay special attention to the following points:
- external dimensions (length, width, height);
- fixing the legs to the tabletop. Round models usually have one support post located in the center, rectangular designs require 1 support at each corner;
- mechanisms (relevant for folding options and transforming tables).
It is necessary to carefully consider how all the details of the table will be assembled together, what additional processing of the wood will be required before assembly or after it.
Material
It is no secret that wood of different species has different properties and not the entire array is suitable for artisanal processing. Depending on the species, all wood can be divided into 3 groups.
Soft. This includes almost all conifers (spruce, pine, fir, cedar) and many hardwoods (linden, aspen, poplar, alder). Such material is easy to process, but the table made will require additional protective coating, especially if it is supposed to be used outdoors. Coniferous wood is dependent on external factors, prone to deformation and cracking. An exception, perhaps, is larch, which is used in construction wherever possible, including for the manufacture of tables.
Solid. This group includes birch, oak, walnut and fruit trees: plum, pear, apple, apricot. Such a bar, even without impregnation, is resistant to a humid environment and exposure to direct sunlight, but in the process of processing one cannot do without a power tool.
Heavy duty . This category includes boxwood, acacia, hornbeam and yew. The material has high consumer properties, but requires professional processing, which is possible only in the workshops of industrial enterprises.
Tool
The simplest rough board table can be assembled with your own hands with just a hammer, nails and a hacksaw. But for a more accurate execution, additional tools will be required:
- electric jigsaw;
- grinder;
- screwdriwer set;
- drill with a set of drills of various diameters;
- roulette;
- simple pencil;
- square.
In addition, wood is recommended to be pre-treated with special antiseptics, which will make the finished product more durable and resistant to moisture. If you plan to cut a pattern on the legs or sidewalls, then you will need special cutters. A great help to the master will be a turning or milling machine for wood, but not everyone will find such tools.
Homemade tables for a summer residence
The simplest and most practical option for arranging a summer cottage is a table made of wooden pallets. Unnecessary, at first glance, pallets are ready-made raw materials that require little to no additional processing, but offer several options for use. For example, from 2 pallets you can make a small hanging table with a wall mount, which can be used as a shelving unit or for small friendly gatherings.
Such a design is made elementarily. One pallet is attached to the wall with nails or self-tapping screws. Installation height is selected individually. The working part - the table top - is attached to the fixed base. The elements are articulated with each other by two chains that will perform a supporting and supporting function. For ease of use, 2 loops are placed at the junctions of the pallets; in addition, a locking mechanism can be installed, for example, a hook that will hold such a table in the closed position.
A more complex option is a pallet coffee table that will look organic on a veranda or terrace. In this case, the pallets are carefully disassembled into their component parts, polished, painted. After that, the boards are knocked together into a rectangular tabletop, fixed around the perimeter with vertically arranged elements. The function of the legs is performed by 4 square bars. This design is made in 3-4 hours and is quite suitable for evening tea parties and family holidays.
Using leftover building materials
Almost on any personal plot there are boards left after the construction of a house or outbuildings. This material is quite suitable for creating a simple rectangular table that can be placed on the veranda or in the garage, used as a dining or utility table.
Here you need to follow the following instructions:
- assemble the frame. To do this, you need 4 boards: 2 long and 2 short. The sides are fastened together with self-tapping screws, forming a regular rectangle. To save the geometry, we use a square. At the junctions, you can put iron corners, which will give the structure rigidity and reliability;
- fasten the legs. For these purposes, 4 boards or bars are suitable. The length is chosen arbitrarily: 80-100 cm. Support posts are installed on the inside of the frame, fastened with nails or self-tapping screws;
- stiffening rib . Approximately in the middle of the legs, an additional crossbar made of wood is nailed. A cross member is installed on both sides, making the structure more durable and stable. In addition, these crossbars can later be used to install a shelf where you can place dishes or other little things necessary in the household;
- countertop . The remaining boards go here, which are best placed across the frame. The material is sawn with a hacksaw along the width of the table, attached to the frame with finishing nails.
At the final stage, all surfaces are treated with a grinder, primed and varnished. You can paint the table, in this case, the tree will last much longer. And if you walk along the boards with a brush for brushing and apply a stain on top, you get an antique table.
Table with benches
This option is great for a garden, a wooden structure is installed permanently, depending on the chosen size, it can comfortably accommodate 8-10 people. A garden table and benches are made of boards separately, then the elements are fastened together with a threaded connection: steel studs.
The manufacturing process begins with benches. To do this, the boards are sawn to size, according to the drawn up drawings. To assemble the bench, you will need:
- 3 long boards that will go on the seat;
- 4 short pieces, cut at the edges at an angle of 45 ° - the length of these elements should not exceed the width of the seat;
- 4 boards 40-50 cm high - these will be the legs;
- 1 board is shorter by 25-30 cm of the length of the seat - a stiffener.
note that all the listed elements are duplicated, since there are supposed to be 2 benches for such a table.
Shops are assembled according to this scheme. A longitudinal stiffener is attached to two short crossbars. Legs are installed, which are clamped by the remaining segments. For reliability, short parts are drilled through and, together with the legs, are pulled together with pins.
Seat boards are nailed on top of the frame. It is not necessary to put them close, it is better to leave small gaps.
The finished seats are interconnected by four boards 160-180 cm long. The fastening is carried out at the bottom of the legs in such a way that the support posts are clamped by the boards on both sides.
After preparing the base, a table is assembled. The tabletop and areas for mounting the support posts are made according to the principle similar to benches. The legs themselves are made cruciform, fixed to the longitudinal supports that connect the benches. The result is a handy DIY wood kitchen table that can be used for family reunions.
Round tables
Despite the specific geometric shape, making a round table with your own hands from wood is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. In particular, if old trees are being felled in the courtyard of a multi-storey building or next to a personal plot, you can get an original round tabletop without any extra effort. For this, a saw cut of a tree made in the thickest part of the trunk is quite suitable. Such a round shape 5-7 centimeters thick is varnished and can become a key table installed in the hallway.
If you are unlucky with fallen trees, you can create a round-shaped countertop on your own. This will require 4 boards of the following sizes:
- length - 2000 mm;
- width - 250 mm;
- thickness - 40 mm.
The boards are tightly connected to each other (not fastened), a circle of the desired diameter is drawn on the surface. After that, the boards are cut with an electric jigsaw exactly along the intended line. A rectangular or triangular frame is assembled under the legs from the bars. The shape is selected depending on the number of legs. If 3 support posts are supposed, the frame is made in the shape of a triangle. The elements are fastened together with self-tapping screws, the legs are fixed in a similar way. The tabletop is installed with the help of corners, after assembly the entire structure is varnished. If you make such a table carefully, then it can be installed in the apartment in the kitchen or in the living room.
An oval table is assembled according to a similar principle. The only difference is that on the interconnected boards, not a circle is drawn, but 2 semi-ovals along the ends. Boards are cut with a jigsaw along the line. The frame is also made of bars, but has a strictly rectangular shape. Ideally, the frame should be located 10-20 cm from the edge of the countertop. Small tables are often used as coffee tables and look especially interesting on curly legs. However, for the manufacture of carved supports, certain knowledge will be required, so it is better to order such elements in furniture production.
Transforming tables
A folding table made of wood, made with your own hands and capable of changing its original shape, is a real masterpiece. Folding structures look equally advantageous in the country and fit into the interior of a city apartment. The easiest option is to make a transformer for the backyard, and this task can be done on your own.
To surprise guests and get a comfortable wooden picnic table, you need to assemble 2 benches with high backs. The seat is made of 3 boards, interconnected by crossbars. There is one caveat here: the edge of the crossbar, which is located on the back side, should protrude 10-15 cm beyond the edges of the seat.
Table legs are available in different lengths. A short support post is placed on the side of the seat, the long one will serve as the basis for the backrest. Note that the recommended height of the backrest should vary between 60-90 cm. Closer to the seat, a hole is drilled in the rack, where the latch for the back will be inserted.
After completing all the operations, they get 2 benches where you can sit quite comfortably, discussing the latest news or admiring the sunset. If you raise the backs of these benches and move them towards each other, you get a table with two rows of seats. Given the width of each backrest, a tabletop measuring 120-180 cm is obtained.
Computer desk
If we are talking about a factory product, a computer desk seems to be a rather complex design. It has a pull-out keyboard shelf, storage boxes for discs and other items that require experience to make. However, the model of a table made of wood can be significantly simplified, leaving a minimum of parts necessary for working at a computer.
Here you can try something like this:
- steel frame in the form of a welded rectangle made of corrugated pipe with 4 support posts. On the one hand, a frame is immediately made under the shelf where the system unit will stand, and two similar elements from the other end;
- the countertop is made from cut-to-size boards or a fiberboard sheet;
- shelves are made of a material similar to the countertop.
All elements are interconnected by a threaded connection or a corner. Of course, this design is inferior to factory counterparts in terms of external design, but it costs several times less and does its job quite well.
Processing and exterior finishing
In order for a home-made wooden table to have a presentable appearance and retain its properties for as long as possible, before assembly, all parts are impregnated with a water-polymer emulsion. It is better to repeat the treatment 2-3 times with an interval of 5 days. After the installation is completed, the surfaces are carefully polished, small flaws are masked with putty. Then varnish is applied: it is better to choose acrylic-based compositions that are safe to use.
To prolong the service life, wooden tables are recommended to be protected from strong wetting and direct sunlight. In the garden in the country, it is better to install them in a shaded place, and cover them with foil during rain.
