What kind of varnish to cover the interior door and how best to do it? how to refinish lacquer how to refinish lacquer

If the furniture is cracked against your will, and how to bring it back to life with simple means.

Scuffs here, scratches there, and soon the eye begins to notice more and more damage to the once flawless finish. The aging of the coatings is inevitable, but this does not mean, however, that it is time to change the furniture for a new one.

How to renew paint finishes Sometimes it is enough just to clean the object well or apply a new coat of coating, it is much easier than starting with bare wood.

Before you get started, you need to determine what type of coverage you are dealing with. First of all, drop some alcohol in an inconspicuous place (photo A). The shellac coating will dissolve. If this does not happen, do the same with the nitro varnish thinner, which should soften the nitrocellulose coating. If nothing worked out this time, you are dealing with an oil, alkyd, polyurethane or two-component polyester varnish.

If the furniture is relatively new, it is possible that the coating film will be stained. Inspect damaged areas: if the color changes in the place of scratches or abrasions, but the wood is not exposed, you will have to completely remove the coating and reapply the finish. But before you go that far, try some simpler remedies first.

A. The underside of the drawer is the ideal place to check the type of coating with alcohol and then thinner.

Q. A finish that looks worn may be just dirty. Remove the buildup with a soapy tissue and this is a good start to restore the freshness of the finish.

Method number 1.

Start with a thorough cleaning

If the coating is only dull or has barely noticeable dents and scratches, first remove the old film of polish, wax or oil. Wipe the surfaces with a cloth moistened with a mild hand cleaner and dry them immediately after cleaning (photo B). Then remove all traces of wax and oil by treating the coating with mineral spirits.

Now apply a new layer of wax paste, such as Johnson Paste Wax, which will fill in the smallest scratches and give an even shine. Allow the paste to dry before hand polishing with a eccentric sander with a furry attachment (photo C). To avoid damaging the wax finish, do not use aerosol polishes or so-called "lemon oil" (mineral oil with mineral spirits and fragrance additives), which dissolve the wax.

Method number 2.

The next option is to refinish.

If cleaning and waxing did not help, the finish should probably be polished. This is possible if the film is thick enough, as part of it is removed in this process. How to find film thickness? If no bare wood is exposed underneath the scratches, this is a good sign that the film can be worked with. When polishing an existing coating, the procedure is the same as when polishing a new one. First, prepare a white non-woven polishing pad by attaching it to the abrasive disc with double-sided tape. Apply a little polishing liquid to the coating and spread it over the entire surface, moving the sander slowly and making overlapping passes (photo D).

Work slowly and stop when the sheen is even. After that, apply a layer of wax paste.

Method number 3.

Apply a new coat

A surface riddled with rough scratches and dents cannot be refreshed without removing the old coating to bare wood.

C. To make a random orbital sander polishing pad, attach a white non-woven pad to the abrasive side of the sanding pad with tape.

1. Remove fine sanding scratches with a white polishing pad and Finesse-lt II Machine Polish. Check your results often as you work.
2. The silicone found in some furniture polishes can cause bubbles in the new finish or it may flake off like water droplets on an oily surface.

But if the scratches aren't too deep, you can make the finish look old but not worn by applying new coats with sanding in between to make the finish smooth and give it an even sheen. For not too smooth surfaces, use matte and semi-matt finishes. Glossy finishes require a long polishing process, and even small imperfections can be seen on mirror-like surfaces. Start with a thorough brushing, then wipe the surface with mineral spirits to remove any oil, wax, or polish that will cause the new coating to blister and peel off (Photo E). Then lightly sand the surface by hand with #320 sandpaper to prepare it for new coats.

To cover small scratches that expose clean wood, apply a suitable color stain to the damaged area (photo F) and let it dry for 24 hours. Then, using a swab, apply three coats of a film-forming compound, such as Watco Wipe-On Poly, with an intermediate sanding with #320 grit.

1. A dab of stain is an effective and economical way to repair small scratches. Instead of stain, you can use special coloring markers, which are sold in many shopping centers.
2. Aligning the coating film on an uneven surface by grinding, it is easy to wipe through one or more layers through which the lower ones will shine through.

If small dents or abrasions persist after applying new coats, sand them with #320 sandpaper to a uniform matte finish. At the same time, if you grind for too long, whitish spots may appear (photo G), but they will be covered with new layers. Apply the coating and leave to dry for at least a week in a ventilated area to allow the film to harden well. Its readiness for polishing can be determined by the absence of solvent odor, which should evaporate completely.

To polish the new film, first apply some Vaseline oil and sand the surface by hand with #400 and then #600 sandpaper to even out small roughnesses. Inspect the abrasive frequently to ensure that the abrasive grains are not clogged with coating particles. Wipe the surface clean before changing the abrasive. After sanding, proceed to polishing with a random orbital sander with a white fleece attachment. Then polish the finish with a soft cloth and polishing liquid. Stop when the degree of gloss is the same in all areas of the surface.

Wood has long been considered one of the best flooring materials. It is a natural, environmentally friendly, durable and beautiful material. Nevertheless, it is also influenced by various external factors and over time loses its attractiveness and requires high-quality repair or replacement. Therefore, most people are so used to their old wooden floor that they do not even consider replacing the wooden floor with another flooring.

Under such conditions, the most acceptable solution is to renew the wooden flooring, which is very practical in terms of repair and restoration. In addition, you can repair and restore a wooden floor many times.

Now solid wood boards, as well as parquet and block parquet, remain a fairly popular flooring material in the future, despite the relatively high cost. Therefore, do not rush to replace them with modern artificial counterparts. We offer a sequence of repairing an old wooden floor, subject to which you can achieve the desired result.

Removal of old paint and sanding

A rather laborious process that requires a special grinding machine, on which the quality of work directly depends, as well as the absence of dirt and dust during its execution. You should not save on these processes, and when choosing a master with grinding equipment, you need to pay attention to the following main points:

• completeness of the grinding machine, because each of them performs a specific function:
• tape - levels and removes a layer of paint;
• surface grinding - polishes;
• facing - processes areas in hard-to-reach places;
• the manufacturer and brand of the grinding machine, on which the quality and speed of the work performed depend;
• the presence of a special grinder for grinding and sanding the floor around the perimeter of the room and in hard-to-reach places, and not an ordinary grinder;
• an integrated approach to the implementation of all floor grinding work, taking into account all consumables, that is, the implementation of all work on a turnkey basis.

Putty

One of the necessary stages of renewal and restoration of an old wooden floor, which almost always has gaps as a result of the drying of the wood. Puttying is carried out over the entire area of ​​the floor with a spatula, which improves the appearance of the floor, provides effective and durable filling of cracks and cracks, and also makes the coating solid.

Padding

Priming sanded wood flooring is a must. The primer precedes the application of an external aesthetic layer - paint or varnish. This process protects the surface from the harmful effects of various biological factors and prolongs the life of the wood coating, as well as ensures its adhesion to the substrate.

When choosing a primer, the degree of protection of the floor and the level of resistance to various influences should be taken into account. Before use, the product is thoroughly mixed and not diluted throughout the entire process of use. Apply in one layer.

To improve the properties, the coating is ground along the fibers with sandpaper, and if necessary, additionally polished. A quality primer provides not only a uniform finish, but also paint savings. The primed surface can be considered completely ready for the finishing process of updating the wooden floor.

Painting

The paint on the surface forms a protective color coating, which provides the floor with reliable protection and an attractive appearance. Unlike impregnations and varnishes, it hides the natural color of wood and its inherent pattern. Durable and abrasion-resistant coating protects the floor from scratches and other factors. Before use, the paint is thoroughly mixed and, if necessary, diluted with an oil-phthalic solvent to the required viscosity.

The paint is applied in three layers. Drying of each layer - about a day. The floor surface acquires full operational stability and strength 72 hours after the application of the last layer. Subject to the above recommendations and tips, the wooden flooring will have an attractive appearance and will last for many years.

Even at the stage of buying products for treating wooden surfaces in your home, the question arises: how long will such protection last and when will it need to be updated. And with the approach of the repair time, the search for the answer to the question will begin: how to properly update the wooden surface?

You will immediately notice the first signs that the tree needs to be processed again. Cracks, swelling, peeling of the surface will speak about them. There is a drop method by which you can understand that the time for repair has come: if water drops lose their shape and spread over the surface, soaking into it, then the protective layer does not fulfill its functions and must be restored.

Updating a wooden surface can be carried out over the entire surface, or in sections.

Step by step repair

• Surface preparation - we clean and grind the repaired area with a scraper, a metal brush, a spatula or lightly sand if the coating layer sits tightly on the surface.
• We apply an antiseptic primer that will protect the tree from swelling and fill the pores. We leave it to dry. Primers are acrylic - for internal surfaces, alkyd - for external and internal use, polystyrene - only for external use due to high toxicity, and others. The most popular primers are currently considered to be Belinka, Tikkurila, Pinotex, Lacra.
• Before application, the protective and decorative agent is thoroughly mixed and applied to the surface with a brush or roller. It is desirable to use the coating the same as it was before.
• For the entire drying time, we close the surface from dust and dirt if it is on the street and protect it from external influences if the repair is done at home.

If oil impregnation is restored, then at the final stage, to give the surface a shine, we treat with wax, applying it in the direction of the fibers with a brush or cloth. After incomplete drying, we polish.

It is important to know that a high-quality film is formed when a coating is applied in a thin layer. Therefore, it is better to make three thin layers than one thick one. When using blue, you need to take into account that it changes the shade of the surface and do not apply too many layers in order to maintain the desired color.

Drying time also affects the quality of the repair. To do this, you need to carefully read the instructions for the product that you use, and let it dry for the necessary time. It will be different for different media. For example, alkyd coatings can dry from 6 hours to several days. Water dispersion lasts 3-4 hours. Real oils require at least 24 hours to fully soak.

There is advice from experienced builders: in order to achieve durability of the coating of wooden surfaces, it is necessary to re-apply a decorative and protective coating after a year. This is especially true for those parts that are under the influence of different weather conditions. Then the surface will be preserved for a long time, and its visual destruction will not begin soon.

Laminate is one of the most popular residential flooring options today.

First of all, this is an excellent aesthetics and durability of operation, but no matter how high-quality the flooring is, sooner or later it loses its external luster and brightness of colors.

Exposure to shoes, washing with the use of chemicals and abrasives, ultraviolet radiation cause the surface of the floorboards to wear out, and the colors fade and fade. In this regard, many residents have a question whether it is possible to paint the laminate in order to give it a presentable appearance again.

The design of the laminate and the features of its operation

Updating laminate flooring is, in principle, possible, but some nuances of the work should be observed.

Before you paint a laminate, you should take a closer look at what it is and what is its structural difference from parquet flooring.

Laminate made from composite materials

Laminate floorboards, despite their similarity to parquet, have little in common with them. Their main difference is the material from which they are made.

If natural wood is used in the production of parquet boards and bars, then various composite materials are widely used in the manufacture of laminated lamellas.

Laminate structure

A classic laminated board consists of 4 layers fastened together with polymer-based adhesives.

Operation features

If the top coating is broken, the entire panel may be damaged.

In connection with this design of the laminate, if its top layer is damaged, all underlying layers are inevitably put under attack, so damage to the protective surface should be considered not only as a decorative defect that worsens the appearance of laminate flooring.

Violation of the protective layer can cause "failure" of the entire floorboard - moisture and chemical components of cleaning agents, penetrating into the base of the lamella, will lead to its deformation, delamination or fungal attack.

A laminate with a damaged protective layer is strongly discouraged from wet cleaning.

On damaged surfaces, dry cleaning should be limited.

To avoid deformation of the floorboards, dry cleaning with a vacuum cleaner or a broom should be limited.

But it is quite clear that dry cleaning will not be able to rid the surface of the floor covering from persistent dirt.

Moreover, the floorboard, devoid of a polymer film, tends to absorb dirt, and this makes it almost impossible to clean it dry.

In this regard, painting a laminate is needed not only to restore its decorative qualities, but also to protect it from adverse external influences.

As a preventive measure against premature failure of the laminate flooring, it is advisable to choose it according to the stability class.

For example, in rooms with an increased load on the floors (entrance hall, kitchen, living room), a higher-class laminate should be used. The table lists the laminate flooring classes, their recommended area of ​​application and approximate service life.

Choice of paint and varnish

Coat the surface with a compound that will protect the coating from moisture

As practice shows, the best paint for laminate - containing as little liquid as possible.

Otherwise, excess moisture will be absorbed by the bottom layers of the floorboard, which will lead to their swelling and deformation, so the most suitable option would be polyurethane or alkyd-based coloring compounds.

Such compositions create a resistant film on the surface to be painted, which has a protective effect.

If the decorative surface of the laminated coating is not too damaged during operation, to update it, you can limit yourself to applying a new varnish coating.

The painted surface is also varnished for additional protection and shine. It is recommended to use epoxy or polyurethane varnish to cover the laminate. For more information on whether it is possible to varnish the laminated coating, see this video:

These substances in their chemical composition are most similar to methylamine resins, which are used to create the upper protective layer of the lamella in factory conditions.

Laminate painting

Before you update the laminate, you should make an appropriate preparation of the surface, as well as choose the most suitable composition for painting it.

Surface preparation for painting

Most often, the laminate wears out in certain places.

The protective layer of the laminate wears unevenly, and in the form of individual "islands", deep scratches can also form on the surface of the protective layer. On the rest of the surface, the laminated layer retains its protective properties.

Among these protective properties, the low adhesion index should be especially noted. Adhesion ("coupling") - the property of materials to interpenetrate. With regard to finishing and building materials - the ability to create a strong coupling with adhesive, coloring, plaster and other solutions.

In some cases, high adhesion is a definite plus, while in others it is a big minus. The protective surface of the laminate is highly resistant to the penetration of any foreign compounds. This property allows him to successfully resist all kinds of pollution and the effects of household chemicals.

However, when painting, a laminated surface can create a lot of problems for us. Due to the low adhesion coefficient, the paint and varnish composition will not be able to penetrate deep into the protective layer, but will remain on its surface. As a result, in these places the paint will quickly wear off, or peel off and peel off. As a result, all the work done on painting the floors will go down the drain.

Removing the protective layer

In order to avoid this, before you renew the coating, you should increase its adhesion index.

To do this, you must either completely remove the top layer, consisting of a polymer coating, or give it a rough texture.

To do this, carefully process the floor with sandpaper or a grinder.

Stripping the laminated surface should be done as carefully as possible so as not to damage the lower layers of the floorboards. It would be best to use zero sandpaper, or No. 1, for these purposes.

Coarse-grained paper is used only when absolutely necessary - to eliminate large scratches and other mechanical damage. After leveling the surface with a large “skin”, you should walk on it with a smaller one - No. 1 or No. 0.

Remove any remaining dust and debris with a vacuum cleaner.

The final stage of mechanical cleaning is the removal of dust and small sawdust from the floor surface with a vacuum cleaner or a broom.

Also, to remove small abrasive particles and greasy contaminants, you can use a rag with a pile soaked in any of the solvents. In this case, you should not be too zealous so as not to damage the decorative layer.

Small scratches can be repaired with putty

To even out too deep scratches, dents and other external defects, you can use wood putty. It is applied to the damaged surface in a thin layer.

If it is necessary to apply a thick layer of putty, apply it in two steps: the second layer after the first has completely dried. After that, the puttied surface is carefully leveled with the same sandpaper to perfect condition.

Surface primer

In order not to damage the fiberboard, use oil mixtures

The next step in preparing the surface of the laminate for painting is its primer. Applying a primer is another way to increase the adhesion of a color laminate surface.

Due to the poor water resistance of fiberboard, from which the base layer of the lamella is made, oil-based primer enamels are the best choice.

They will allow without any "side effects" to increase the adhesion of the surface of the floor covering. After the primer has dried, you can proceed directly to painting the old laminate.

Surface painting

When applying paint, you should follow a number of recommendations from specialists, thanks to which the work will be done more quickly and efficiently.

First of all, the application of the coloring solution chosen by us should be started from the corner farthest from the doors.

When working with paint, use only a brush.

The paint roller will not allow you to carefully paint over all the joints and cracks between the individual floorboards.

Apply varnish after the paint has dried

At the same time, to create a more natural effect, apply paint or varnish with long strokes directed along the floorboard. After applying the paint, the surface should be carefully treated with a transparent varnish.

It will not only give the floors an elegant glossy look, but also serve as additional protection for the updated floorboards from moisture and mechanical stress.

As can be seen from the above, the answer to the question “can laminate flooring be painted?” - positive, of course, provided that the preparatory work is carried out correctly.

No matter how carefully you treat the floor covering, over time, small scratches, cracks and chips appear on its surface. In such a situation, the laminate must be restored so that the coating again

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It became shiny and smooth, like many years ago. How can you update the old floor yourself? To do this, use various putties and repair kits, which will be discussed in this article.

What damage needs to be repaired?

It is possible to restore the laminate without replacing the lamellas only if there are minor defects, such as:

1. Small chips;
2. Minor cracks;
3. Scuffs on the coating;
4. Small gaps between the lamellas;
5. The dullness of the laminated coating.

In such situations, you can update the laminate in just one day and this will not require serious material costs. Let's look at each type of damage in more detail.

Elimination of small scratches

Often, after repair or rearrangement of furniture, scratches form on the coating, which spoil the appearance of the coating. You can mask defects and thereby update the laminate with the help of such devices:

• wax pencil;
• Polish.

To restore the coating, clean the damaged area from dirt and apply a wax product that matches the color. After that, use a special polish to protect the damaged area from moisture.

Repairing cracks and deep scratches

Old laminate flooring is more susceptible to damage as the protective layer of the coating becomes thinner as a result of use. Then quite deep scratches appear on the surface of the floor. However, in this situation, it is possible to restore the laminate with the help of such means:

• Putty for laminate;
• Spatula for filling cracks.

Special putties for restoration are sold in the form of powders and diluted with water, according to the instructions. Apply the product only on a scratch and only with a spatula. Putty should not be allowed to “crawl out” beyond the damage, since it is rather problematic to clean it.

Elimination of cracks

It is also possible to restore the laminate when gaps between the lamellas form, but only if they are insignificant. After repair, they are usually not visible, but to eliminate the defect, you need to use a special repair kit, or a composition made in a "handicraft" way.

Homemade composition includes:

• crushed chalk;
• Construction paint matching the color of the coating;
• Liquid glass;
• Wood sawdust.

In order for the putty to turn out to be of high quality, before connecting all the components, dilute the liquid glass with a little water. The finished composition should be thick enough. Only after that, all the cracks are smeared with a spatula, after which they are carefully cleaned with sandpaper. The restored floor must then be polished using a special wood care solution.

Elimination of scuffs and dullness

Sometimes it is necessary to update the laminate even if there are no significant defects on it. Over time, the floor loses its luster, and the coating itself becomes dull and unattractive. In such a situation, the laminate can be polished. For these purposes, the following means are used:

• Liquid polish;
• Polish on a viscous basis;
• Mastic.

You can properly polish the floor if you follow these rules:

1. Before applying the product, the coating must be cleaned of dirt and dried;
2. Sprays and viscous formulations are applied evenly to the entire surface of the floor;
3. For polishing use napkins made of natural soft fabric.

In the case of applying mastic, you can polish the coating with a cloth with a fine pile. The agent is applied to a napkin, after which the lamellas are polished in a circular motion. In this case, it is desirable to process the floor in small areas.

In the video, the process of polishing the laminate is considered in more detail, where the specialist talks about all the nuances of this process.

Conclusion

It is easy to update the outdated coverage with the help of affordable and effective means. Each of the methods discussed above allows you to keep the laminate in its original form even after 5-7 years of operation.