Hydrangea: planting and care. Garden hydrangea: growing, reproduction, species How to care for a hydrangea seedling

In many houses and on personal plots, you can see small shrubs, the lush caps of inflorescences of which conquer and captivate with rare pastel shades. This unique plant is called hydrangea. As a houseplant, hydrangea settled in European homes back in the 18th century. Since then, breeders have bred a large number of its varieties and varieties that never cease to amaze with their beauty.

This is a favorite plant of many at home. requires specific care and certain growing conditions. That is why, before settling such an exquisite beauty in your house, you need to learn how to care for hydrangea correctly.

Decorative characteristics of hydrangea

Hydrangea is a flowering perennial shrub. The flower grows in the form of a compact, multi-stemmed bush with beautiful, large, rich green leaves.

The plant can have two types of flowers - small fruiting and large sterile. Globular hydrangea inflorescences look like large hats... The color of the flowers can be pink, lilac, cream, pale white, light green. The color depends on the pH of the soil. Alkaline soil gives the inflorescences a pink and lilac hue, sour blue, and neutral white. The decoration and shade of the inflorescences are given by the sepals of the flowers, while the flowers themselves are colorless.

At home, with proper care, a plant can grow up to one meter. On one bush, a houseplant can have from 1 to 7 spectacular inflorescences, which are located above the upper leaves of the shoots. A blooming ball of hydrangea can be up to 30 centimeters in diameter. The fewer inflorescences on the plant, the larger they are.

Indoor hydrangeas, in comparison with garden ones, are more compact, but the intensity of their colors is higher.

The most popular varieties of indoor hydrangea

At home, only large-leaved hydrangea is grown in a pot, currently numbering more than 100 varieties.

Blue varieties:

• Ramars Mars - the bush is compact and inflorescences, the diameter of which is about 20 cm;
• Earley Blue is a tall plant with bright blue buds.

Varieties with red inflorescences:

• "Prima" is a mid-flowering variety with small flowers, inflorescences 15-18 cm in diameter and a stem height of 20-25 cm;
• "Red sensation" - the plant is distinguished by burgundy-red inflorescences, which, after adding aluminum sulfate or iron salts to the soil, become burgundy-purple.

Pink varieties:

• "Europe" - a tall (40-50 cm), profusely flowering bush with an inflorescence up to 25 cm across and large flowers with a diameter of 6 cm;
• "Hamburg" - a plant whose height is from 35 to 40 cm, blooms profusely with large flowers with a diameter of 4-5 cm;
• "Goliath" - the variety is distinguished by a bush height of 60-70 cm, sepals with deeply cut edges, dark pink large inflorescences and late flowering.

Varieties with creamy and white inflorescences:

• Souer Tharese - an early flowering plant with a low-growing bush up to 40 cm in height, inflorescences 15-17 cm in diameter and regular-shaped flowers;
• M - me E. Mouillere - differs in rather narrow leaves, flowers with 2-6 cm and inflorescences, the diameter of which is from 18 to 20 cm.

Hydrangea - home care

Hydrangea cannot be classified as an easy-to-grow indoor crop. The plant is demanding not only on the conditions of detention, but also on strict adherence to certain rules for its care. This spectacular, but capricious flower does not forgive negligence and mistakes.

The hardest thing to follow and maintain cyclical development hydrangea in a pot. The flower must be carefully taken care of at the stage of bud formation, and carefully monitor the wintering conditions.

Hydrangea is a deciduous shrub whose foliage does not survive even at room temperatures. During the dormant period, the plant sheds its leaves. At this time, he needs to provide a cool place and adjust watering and feeding. This period lasts in the winter season for two and a half months. In the spring, the plant begins to grow actively.

Lighting for hydrangea at home

The plant's lighting requirements are the same for both the garden and indoor conditions. Hydrangea prefers a bright place protected from direct rays. It is best to arrange a flower with a pot two or three meters from the south window... Direct rays of the sun will cause loss of decorative effect on the leaves and endanger flowering.

The light intensity of the hydrangea should not change throughout the year. Reducing light in the winter time can have a detrimental effect on the flower. Therefore, the plant must be rearranged to a brighter place, or used to increase daylight hours fluorescent lamps. A plant that lacks light in winter will weaken, become vulnerable to pests and diseases, and lose its decorative effect.

In addition to good lighting, indoor shrubs love fresh air. Therefore, the room must be regularly ventilated without creating drafts. In summer, hydrangeas in pots feel most comfortable on balconies and loggias with shading, on terraces and in cool places in the garden.

Indoor hydrangeas need cool conditions. For many years, they will delight with their flowering only in a room where the air temperature does not exceed + 20C.

In winter, when the plant is dormant, you also need to remember to take care of it. At this time of the year, the temperature range should be from + 4C to + 9C. This indoor culture can even hibernate on a glazed balcony or loggia. In this case, the shoots will need to be cut off by two-thirds, the plant should be covered with spruce branches, and wrapped in non-woven material. It's okay if the shoots still freeze in winter. After pruning, the plant will quickly recover, begin to grow foliage and bloom.

Its green leaves indicate that the temperature is comfortable for hydrangea. If the flower starts dropping them, it means that the room is too warm for it.

In addition to cool conditions, hydrangea requires high humidity. For this you can buy a humidifier, or place a saucer or pallet with wet moss and stones next to the pot.

Watering and feeding hydrangeas

The plant belongs to a moisture-loving culture, therefore, during the entire active growth, it must be watered often and abundantly, while observing some rules.

1. The soil around the roots should be constantly moist, but the top layer should be well dried before watering. In this case, the roots will not rot and the plant will not get sick.
2. During the rest period, the frequency of watering is gradually reduced. In the winter season, you just need to make sure that the earthy clod does not dry out.
3. As soon as new leaves begin to appear on the bush, watering also gradually resumes.
4. It is recommended to water the plant with soft, settled water at room temperature.

Summer hydrangea fed with mineral fertilizers... Twice a week, the flower is watered with a solution that is prepared from 30 g of potassium sulfate, 40 g of superphosphate, 30 g of ammonium nitrate. All prepared ingredients are mixed and dissolved in a bucket of water.

From mid-August, feeding stops. At this time, the vegetative growth of the plant will begin to stop and flower buds will be laid. Weak shoots and root growth will need to be removed.

Features of transplanting room hydrangea

Hydrangea care at home involves a yearly transplant. The soil should be taken fertile, consisting of sod, leafy land and sand (3: 3: 1).

Since the root system of the plant is horizontal, it is recommended to select a wide and spacious pot for it. In order not to damage the roots and minimize stress, the flower is transplanted by transshipment.

A thick layer of drainage should be laid on the bottom of the pot, then a layer of earthen mixture, on which the prepared plant is installed. Fresh substrate is poured around the roots so that the root collar with the soil surface is at the same level.

After transplanting, the hydrangea must be well watered, and the soil must be covered with peat mulch on top. This will prevent moisture from evaporating quickly.

Breeding methods for home hydrangea

At home hydrangea can be propagated in three ways:

1. By dividing the bush.
2. Seeds.
3. By cuttings.

Dividing the bush

This is the easiest breeding method, which requires great care and adherence to some rules:

• the bush divides during the annual transplant;
• all shoots must have a sufficient number of roots and a growth point;
• shoots and roots of the cuttings are first shortened, and only then are they planted in pots and watered.

Divided and planted in spring, the bushes will take root well by autumn.

Seed propagation

Seed indoor hydrangea breeds at the end of winter... Sowing soil should consist of humus, sod and leafy soil (1: 1: 1). The seeds are sown over the surface of the earthen mixture. They do not need to be embedded in the soil. The container with inoculation is covered with foil or glass on top.

Crops should be ventilated and moistened with a spray bottle every day. Make sure that the soil is always slightly damp. When the first shoots appear, the film or glass is removed.

As soon as two real leaves appear on the seedlings, they need to be transplanted into a deeper container with the same composition of the earth. The grown and matured seedlings are planted in pots, the diameter of which should not be more than seven centimeters.

Hydrangea cuttings

Experienced growers propagate hydrangea by cuttings, since it is the most reliable way to reproduce.

In January-February, cuttings 7-8 cm long are cut from the root shoots of the plant. Each segment should have up to three internodes. On the upper part of the cutting, the leaves are shortened by a third or half, and completely removed from the lower part.

The segments are treated with a root stimulant, planted in a sandy-peat substrate, watered and covered with glass jars. This way of keeping them will help prevent the soil from drying out, and will maintain the optimum air humidity for the development of cuttings.

The container with seedlings should be kept in the brightest place at room temperature 18-20C. After three to four weeks, the cuttings will take root and can be planted in separate pots.

From cuttings rooted in January-February by autumn a bush will grow from 3-4 shoots... If grafting is carried out in March-April, the result will be a hydrangea with one stem.

Only caring owners who follow all the rules of care and requirements for temperature conditions, soil selection, lighting and watering will be able to observe the luxury of hydrangea flowering. But the care is worth it. After all, this beautiful plant will look fresh and fashionable in any setting and in any interior. It can be used to decorate residential and industrial premises, winter gardens, balconies, terraces and flower beds.

Photo in the interior

Hydrangea (Hydrangea) is a flowering plant of the hydrangea family, popular all over the world. It is grown in the garden and on the windowsill. Among the many species, there are shrubby and tree-like species. The homeland of hydrangea is the latitude of Japan, China, South and North America with a moderate continental climate. Important conditions for good development include high air humidity, an abundance of diffused daylight and moist nutrient soil.

It grows at home to a height of no more than a meter, looks like a bush. The lush crown is filled with ovoid leaves with a jagged edge, the size of which ranges from 9 to 14 m in length. The most important advantage of the plant is its large spherical inflorescences of various shades of white, pink, blue.

Be sure to see flowering plants and.

Beneficial features

Possessing a positive, light energy, the flower spreads a calm serenity. From the Feng Shui perspective, it has many useful properties:

• extinguishes mutual hostility, softens conflict in communication;
• at home normalizes family relationships, helps to achieve mutual understanding;
• contemplation of hydrangea relieves mental fatigue after an incident or stress, helping to calm down;
• a flowering plant relieves of bad mood, negativity of others, bad thoughts.

Did you manage to grow Hortense?

While I'm tryingYes, it was very simple!

On a note. In order for the beneficial properties to be fully revealed, the flower is selected the optimal conditions for growth.

Features of growing at home. Briefly

In order for a hydrangea to feel comfortable at home and systematically please with flowering, it needs good care.

Hydrangea care at home. In detail

Bloom

At home, it blooms in April, if she was provided with a rest period from October to February.

Since March, the air temperature is raised to 20 degrees, they begin to apply fertilizers, water and actively spray.

Such procedures allow you to bring the flower out of hibernation, prompting it to bloom.

The bush blooms until November, revealing delicate buds, collected in large inflorescences.

Depending on the variety, they are of several types:

• spherical;
• umbrella-shaped;
• racemose.

The flowers that make up the inflorescence vary in size. Larger ones bloom at the edge, and small ones fill the center.

Temperature regime

A flower at home needs to maintain the correct temperature regime. If the air in the apartment is hot and dry, then the plant will most likely lose its leaves, and then die. The most comfortable temperature for growth and flowering is 18 - 20 degrees.

Important! When the plant finishes flowering, move it to a cool room and reduce watering. At rest, the temperature should not exceed 10 degrees. If the hydrangea is left in normal temperature for the winter, it may not bloom in the spring.

Spraying

If kept near batteries or exposed to bright sunlight, it will not feel well. Dry air is destructive for non. Leaves should be sprayed daily with boiled or filtered water so that it does not leave a white coating on the surface. It is advisable that the spray does not fall on the buds.

Lighting

A young specimen is placed on a windowsill, an adult plant is placed on a stand near the window. The conditions of windows facing the east side are considered the most favorable.... On the north windows additional lighting is required, on the south and west windows - shading.

Watering

Sensitive to composition and quantity of water. It is watered with soft water. Best filtered or thawed. Careful flower growers freeze the water, and then thaw and water the capricious flower... To prevent the color of the buds from fading, a few drops of lemon juice are added to the water once a month in the spring-summer period.

During the active growth stage, the soil in the pot must be constantly moist. It is watered every other day, immersing the pot with water for half an hour. Excess water is allowed to drain. In winter, the soil is moistened no more than once every 10 days.

Priming

In order for water to drain well from the soil during irrigation, it must be light and breathable. Part of the soil should consist of expanded clay, which is laid out on the bottom of the pot. The soil should contain several components:

• sod land;
• vermiculite or perlite;
• peat;
• humus;
• sand.

Soil acidity is also important. It affects the color of the petals: in alkaline soil, they acquire a pale color (from white to pink or cream, depending on the variety), the more acidic the soil, the more the shade of flowers becomes purple or blue.

Top dressing and fertilization

In order for the hydrangea to actively develop at home, it needs feeding. Formulations are best suited for plants that prefer acidic soil (azaleas, rhododendrons). Liquid fertilizer is diluted in clean water and applied to the soil at the end of February - beginning of March, when the first buds appear on the stems. With the onset of November, soil fertilization is stopped.

Transfer

If care is followed according to all the rules, then the plant lives for at least 4 years. During this time, it is transplanted several times into a new nutrient substrate.

For transplanting, choose a pot slightly larger than the previous one with large holes at the bottom. Nutrient soil is poured onto the expanded clay layer, the plant is placed and its roots are sprinkled, pressing the soil well with your hands.

After transplanting, the soil is watered abundantly.

How to trim?

An indoor flower must be cut in the fall. After flowering, weak, dry branches are removed with a sharp, sterile pruning shears or knife. Too elongated stems are also cut, which spoil the decorative appearance.

Reproduction of hydrangea

Given the short lifespan, they multiply while the mother plant has not died out. Three methods are used for reproduction.

Propagation by cuttings

When carrying out autumn pruning, long cuttings are not thrown away. They are good for rooting. The most acceptable length of the process is 8 - 10 cm. It should have 2 - 3 buds. Before planting, the base of the cutting is treated with a growth stimulator, the lower leaves are cut off, and the upper ones are shortened. The stems are planted in peat under a jar, providing high humidity and good lighting. When new leaves begin to appear on the stem, the jar is removed daily for 2 hours, and with the arrival of spring, they are removed altogether.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

An adult specimen at 3-4 years of age is suitable for this method. During the transplant, it is divided into several parts. It is important not to damage the delicate roots, otherwise new plants will grow poorly. After transplanting, all specimens are watered with Kornevin. This method is the easiest and gives good results.

Growing hydrangeas from seeds

You can grow a flower from a bag of seeds.

For this, a fertile mixture with a high peat content is poured with warm water, seeds are spread on top.

The container is covered with glass. It is important that the soil is constantly moist. If it dries up, the seeds will not germinate.

When the first shoots appear on the surface, the glass is removed. Youngsters dive when real leaves appear.

Diseases and pests

Dry air, excessive waterlogging or proximity to diseased specimens provokes the appearance of spider mites, thrips and aphids on stems, leaves and roots. At the first signs of the disease, the flower is treated with a specialized agent.

With improper care, the plant is sick:

• leaves witherhydrangeas — possible with insufficient watering;
• light spot indicates excessive watering;
• the edges of the leaves dry hydrangeas - evidence of low moisture and poor soil moisture.

Homemade hydrangea varieties with photos and names

The varieties differ in the size and shape of the flowers, as well as their color.

"Red sensation"

One of the most popular varieties. The bright burgundy-red color of the petals sets it apart from others. The inflorescences are large, reaching up to 20 cm in diameter.

"Goliath"

It stands out among others with large spherical inflorescences. Adult specimens reach a height of 70 cm. In neutral soil, the variety is pink in color.

"Europe"

Differs in an abundance of flowers on the bush. A medium-sized plant is covered with large pink inflorescences, the diameter of which is at least 25 cm.

Earley Blue

This is one of the common blue varieties. It grows up to a meter in height and requires systematic fertilization.

It develops well in a city apartment. With good care and daily spraying, it blooms for a long time, captivating everyone with its unearthly beauty.

The heir to the Far Eastern natural species and breeding novelties of the European collection, Hydrangea, as this flower is called in botanical atlases, is represented in domestic floriculture by several varieties resistant to cool summers and harsh winters:

There are no evergreen forms among them. Sometimes, for wintering, certain varieties have to be transplanted into pots and brought into the room, but sub-zero temperatures up to 10 ° C, and even -25 ° C, some of the hydrangeas (for example, paniculate) are firmly tolerated with reliable.

All parts of the growing hydrangea are considered poisonous because they contain cyanogenic glycoids, but in folk medicine the root extract is used as a tonic, wound healing, diuretic and analgesic agent.

Required conditions for flowering

Among gardeners, there are two opinions on the cultivation of hydrangeas: an unpretentious plant, and - quite capricious. They are based on the correct and incorrect choice of a landing site..

After all, inhibition of growth, scarcity of flowering, damage by chlorosis or powdery mildew is a consequence of an unsuccessful placement of a bush, or a choice of soil composition. The plant can also suffer from the gardener's excess love: excessively drenched or "fed" with fertilizers.

Optimal conditions for growth:

1. A well-lit elevation above the water table, where there is no direct sun, but partial shade is formed.
2. Natural or artificial protection from constant winds and heavy rainfall.
3. Podzolic soils and nutritious loams; acidity not higher than pH4.5-5.
4. Constant moisture content of the earthen coma.
5. Temperature background is not lower than + 12 ° C.
6. Regular removal of weeds and shoots from the root circle.
7. Formative pruning.
8. Proper preparation for wintering.

IMPORTANT: In areas with alkaline soil, artificial acidifiers are used for the well-being of the bush: citric or oxalic acid (30 ml per bucket of water), and even battery electrolyte (1 ml per liter of water).

Watch a video about the conditions for the lush flowering of hydrangeas:

The ability to influence color is a rare gift from nature to man

The beauty of the spherical inflorescences of hydrangea is provided by sterile four-petal flowers bordering nondescript small fertile ones. From the latter, a seed capsule is formed, they are honey plants, but they are admired, similar to moths, sterile flowers.

At the very beginning of flowering, regardless of the variety, they are all light green in color. Only over time it becomes obvious what color the panicles will be.

The palette of blooming hydrangeas: from chaste white and pale beige through all shades of pink to delicate tones of lilac, blue and blue. It's hard to believe but the color of the inflorescences is determined by the acidity and the content of chemical elements in the soil:

• the presence of Al or Fe in the form of alum guarantees all shades of blue;
• on slightly alkaline soils, sterile flowers will have a pink (natural) color;
• the change in color is also facilitated by the introduction of peat.

ATTENTION: On sale there are harmless chemical compounds that can change the color of the inflorescences, with a greater or lesser intensity according to the amount of substance introduced.

This treatment is carried out during the beginning of the growing season. Regular use of additives gives unambiguous color of the bristles, irregular - the manifestation of bi-color.

Special hybrids of hydrangeas have been bred, which can change color and very easily "recolor" in the desired color - "NikkoBlue", "Blaumeise", etc. Snow-white varieties are the most difficult to change color; at best, their inflorescences can acquire a slightly pink tint. By influencing color samples, you can get complex shades of red and blue - purple, violet.

People have discovered this feature of influencing the color of hydrangea inflorescences by experience for a long time: they buried rusty objects on the bush or watered the plant with rusty water.

How to prolong the joy of admiration?

The flowering bush pleases the eye for several months, the inflorescences cut for a bouquet stand in the water for 2 weeks. But the desire to extend the flowering time prompted the florists to preserve the blooming hydrangea in different ways for up to a year. This is drying:

Such a flower will stand in the floral arrangement for a year, without loss of color, but then it will still fade.

Cut flowers for drying at the end of the seasonwhen fertile flowers begin to actively bloom, and sterile ones change color, withering. It is very difficult to catch this moment: you hurry up - the flowers will dry for a very long time to the detriment of beauty, if you are late - they will turn from colored to brown. Plucking faded flowers is also not encouraged, which can provoke wilting of the entire panicle.

IMPORTANT: Hydrangea does not tolerate drought, but excess moisture is harmful to it. Fungal diseases appear from it, roots can rot. The weakened plant is home to aphids, ticks and nematodes.

Read more on how to protect your garden hydrangea from diseases and pests.

Watch a video about drying methods:

Why doesn't it bloom in the garden and what should be done in such cases?

This is perhaps the most important disappointment of the grower. Well, in the first year - of course, it's still early for her. And then? The reason may be:

• an incorrectly selected variety for a given region;
• artificial stimulation of the pre-sale specimen, which can be seen from the outlined buds;
• a sharp change in the substrate in which the purchased plant was located, and the garden soil;
• lack of root development;
• early release of the bush in the spring from the frost-protective cover;
• frost damage to the upper bud buds;
• improper pruning of stems, with the removal of flower buds;
• constant stay of the plant in the shade;
• lack of a complex of dressings.

Correct identification of the reasons will help to correctly eliminate them, and wait for the solemn moment: the lush flowering of the hydrangea bush.

Hydrangea is a beautiful garden flower with fluffy, colorful caps. They are represented by several types: by the type of shrubs up to 3 m high, small trees and lianas, which can braid a tree up to 30 m in height. The hydrangea will bloom from spring to frost, delighting with its globular inflorescences. However, there are species for which this time is shorter. - everything about her in the article!

Hydrangea planting rules

You can plant a hydrangea in early spring or fall. In this case, the first option will be preferable. For hydrangeas, you need to choose the right landing site. She prefers acidic soil with good moisture. With regard to lighting, these flowers can feel comfortable both in the sun and in partial shade.

The whole planting process can be divided into several stages:

After planting a hydrangea bush, it is better to cover it from sunlight for a few days. This will allow the plant to take root faster. Hydrangea can be planted both singly and in groups. In this case, the distance between the bushes should be about 1 meter.

Basic rules for caring for hydrangea

Hydrangea care comes down primarily to proper watering, timely feeding, pruning and loosening. If you do everything right, then the bushes will be lush, and the inflorescences will be large and bright.

Watering

Hydrangea is a moisture-loving plant that requires frequent watering. It should be plentiful, 15 - 20 liters for each adult bush. In hot weather, this should be done once a week. In hot and dry summers can be increased up to twice a week. In this case, you need to focus on the condition of the soil, given how quickly it absorbs moisture and dries out.

For watering, it is best to use settled soft water at room temperature. Periodically, you need to add a little potassium permanganate to it, which will prevent the appearance of rot. Water the hydrangea in the morning or evening, when it is not too hot.

Top dressing

For good development and lush flowering, the hydrangea needs to be fed. For this, both organic and mineral fertilizers are suitable. Their use is especially important during periods of intensive growth. You can buy ready-made fertilizers that are rich in magnesium and iron. Feeding in the form of a solution of poultry droppings with water in a ratio of 1:10 in combination with a mineral composition of 20 g, 10 g of nitrate and 10 g has a good composition. You can use any slurry as a fertilizer, just observe the measure, otherwise the buds will be too large, which can cause fragile branches to break.

It is necessary to fertilize hydrangea not only during planting, but periodically as it grows. The first such feeding should be done at the end of May. It should be repeated after two weeks. You can fertilize flowers throughout the summer, but in August it is advisable to stop feeding so that the shoots can become woody for winter.

Mulching

Thanks to the mulching of the trunk circle, the roots of the hydrangea will be protected from overheating and the rapid growth of weeds. You must first make an organic mulch, consisting of wood chips or. It should be scattered evenly around the bush. This will help make the soil more acidic, which is what hydrangeas need. This mulch will gradually become part of the soil.

It is best to apply mulch under the bushes in late spring, when the soil is well warmed up. Mulching is also possible in late autumn, when temperatures are below zero. Periodically, the shrubs need to be loosened so that the soil is more moisture-permeable.

Pruning

Pruning is done on plants that are 3 to 4 years old. This should be done in early spring - before sap flow and budding begin. If done too early, the cuttings will be unsuitable for further rooting, and if too late, the plant may die. This is why it is important to prune when the buds are just starting to swell.

When pruning mature plants, cut 3/4 of the height of each shoot with a pruning shear. In this case, 2 - 3 pairs of kidneys should remain on them. Old bushes can be root-renewed. Everything will depend on the condition of the bush or tree. You need to cut off old or frozen shoots. During pruning, you can form a beautiful small tree with a certain shape. In the first year of the hydrangea's growth, its flowers should be removed. this will encourage more abundant flowering next year.

Preparing hydrangeas for winter

Hydrangea belongs to heat-loving plants, so it must be protected in the winter season. Young shoots and insufficiently winter-hardy varieties need special protection. If the bush is very young, you can simply cover it from above with earth, fallen leaves or sawdust. Older plants must be bent to the ground and covered with roofing material or lutrasil. To prevent the wind from blowing it away, you need to press down the covering material with bricks.

Mature bushes require more cover. We must try not to break them. The bush should be tied up, and then covered with spunbond or lutrasil, after which a frame can be built around it from a metal mesh or other materials at hand. It should be about 20-25 cm away from the bush. The free space must be filled with dry foliage. Such an insulated frame will protect the hydrangea well even in severe frosts. You can remove it in the spring, when there is a stable above zero temperature.

Reproduction of hydrangea

Hydrangea is propagated in several ways:

Popular types of hydrangea

Before planting a hydrangea, you need to decide on the choice of a suitable type. Each of them has its own growing characteristics, which must be taken into account when planting and caring for. The most popular among gardeners: Large-leaved Hydrangea, Panicle Hydrangea, Petiole Hydrangea, Treelike Hydrangea.

Large-leaved hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla)

Will delight with flowering in July-August. This hydrangea has bright, dense foliage. The shoots of the current year look herbaceous, which is why the plant has a low cold resistance. Flowers have an umbrella shape. They can have different colors depending on the variety, the intensity of which depends on the acidity of the soil. The more acidic it is, the brighter the hydrangea will be. The height of the bush reaches 2 m.

Hydrangea paniculata (Hydrangea paniculata)

It blooms from mid-summer until the onset of cold weather. Inflorescences of this type have a pyramidal shape. They can reach a length of up to 30 cm. Panicle hydrangea grows as a shrub, which can reach a height of 5 m or in the form of a small tree up to 10 m. This species is considered more frost-resistant and unpretentious.

Hydrangea petiolar (Hydrangea petiolaris)

It is a shrub vine. It will need an additional support to which it will be attached with air suction cups. It grows in length up to 25 m. This is a suitable species for planting near arches and arbors. Inflorescences have a corymbose shape up to 25 cm in size.

Hydrangea tree (Hydrangea arborescens)

It grows up to 3 meters in height. The flowers are predominantly white or cream in color. There are several varieties of this species, differing in different colors. In winter, the plant can freeze slightly, so it must be carefully wrapped. In April, the bushes need to be heavily pruned. Flowers grow in large fluffy inflorescences.

Ground cover hydrangea (Hydrangea heteromalla)

It is also called Bretschneider hydrangea. This species is considered frost-resistant and unpretentious. The bush reaches 2 - 3 m in height. The inflorescences are corymbose. At first they are white, and at the end of flowering they turn pink. This hydrangea blooms in the middle of summer.

Recommendations for planting and caring for hydrangea in the garden - video

Hydrangea, blooming with luxurious bright inflorescences, can grow both in the garden and indoors. Nursing and growing homemade varieties is of course different from growing hydrangeas in the garden. Our publication will tell you in detail about the rules for keeping hydrangeas indoors.

A beauty loving water

The Latin name for hydrangea - hydrangea - literally translates as "a vessel with water". This name was given to this plant for a reason: hydrangea loves water very much and does not tolerate drought at all.

Hydrangea is a deciduous plant that sheds its leaves for the winter and retires.

Main characteristics of hydrangea:

• there are about 80 species and a large number of varieties of hydrangea;
• types of hydrangeas are subdivided into liana-like, tree-like and shrub;
• some species are frost-resistant;
• garden hydrangeas grow up to three meters in height, and lianas even up to thirty;
• hydrangeas live for about 20 years.

When grown at home, they use large-leaved hydrangea, which breeders use to create new hybrids and varieties of this spectacular plant.

Indoor hydrangeas can grow up to 1.5 meters in size. New varieties for indoor breeding usually have a height of 50 to 100 cm.

• hydrangea leaves serrated, ovoid with a sharp tip, 10-15 cm in length. In autumn they turn red and fall off by winter;
• inflorescences up to 35 cm in diameter, consisting of large sepals, which can be monochromatic, of a different color or change as it develops and depending on the acidity of the soil;
• small petals are located inside the sepals;
• flowers can be sterile or fruiting. The seeds are very small;
• the shape of the flowers can be of four types: spherical, umbrella-shaped, pineal and racemose;
• sepals of different types and varieties have a varied shape, can be double;
• hydrangea blooms from early summer to late autumn;
• The number of inflorescences on hydrangeas increases as the plant ages.

When grown at home, hydrangea is quite whimsical, but if you follow the rules of care, it will certainly delight you with its flowering.

The color range of hydrangeas is diverse, besides, the color of flowers depends on the acidity of the soil. Because of this property, hydrangea is called a plant chameleon. There are varieties that do not change their color from the chemical composition of the soil.

The flower buds of an ordinary large-leaved hydrangea are formed at the tips of last year's shoots, therefore, pruning is done only on dried, extra shoots, without touching the tops with flower buds.

Now new varieties have been bred, in which buds with future flowers are formed on the shoots of both the past and this year. These are called remontant.

Hydrangea is a shade-tolerant plant. Moreover, its flowers cannot stand bright sunlight.

Under natural conditions, hydrangea grows in Asia, America, China and Japan. Several species grow in Russia in the Far East.

Hydrangea does not tolerate extreme heat, therefore it is planted in the garden only in shady places. It requires high humidity.

Hydrangea leaves can be used in tea. The roots, branches and inflorescences of hydrangea paniculate and tree-like are used for medicinal purposes and make various medicinal preparations from them.

Varieties of large-leaved hydrangea by flower color

There are a huge number of varieties of large-leaved hydrangea. Let's consider a few of the most popular ones, dividing them by color categories.

Light

Sister Teresa (Soeur Therese):

• diameter of inflorescences 30 cm;
• white inflorescences with a delicate lilac-pink tint by the end of flowering change color to greenish-pink;
• blooms until September on last year's shoots;
• dense, spreading shrub.

Madame Emile Mouillere (Mme E. Mouillere):

• diameter of inflorescences 20 cm;
• flowers, pure white at the beginning of flowering, then take on light pink or light blue hues;
• blooms profusely on the shoots of the past and this year until October;
• the leaves are narrower than those of other varieties.

Blue

Earley Blue (Early Blue):

• diameter of inflorescences 30 cm;
• blue inflorescences with blue-violet hues initially have a greenish color;
• blooms profusely until October on the shoots of the previous and current year;
• has a strong root system and a compact bush.

Nikko Blue:

• diameter of inflorescences 30 cm;
• inflorescences are bright blue, to maintain color, an acid reaction of the soil is needed at 5.5–7.0 pH;
• abundant flowering until September - October on the shoots of the current and last year;
• fast-growing, medium-sized shrub.

Pink

Ramars Mars or Mars:

• diameter of inflorescences 30 cm;
• inflorescences are pink-crimson with a white edging, which turns green over time;
• compact bush.

Miss Saori:

• diameter of inflorescences 18 cm;
• inflorescences are dull white with a pink border, retain their original color regardless of the acidity of the soil;
• blooms until September on the shoots of the current and previous year;
• dark green foliage has a purple tint.

You & me Love:

• stem height 100 cm;
• blooms continuously from May to September;
• in alkaline soil it is colored pink. in sour, with a high aluminum content - in blue;
• leaves are resistant to powdery mildew;
• frost resistance -29 o C.

Red

Delight (Admiration):

• diameter of inflorescences 20 cm;
• flowers are bright red;
• abundant flowering through October on last year's shoots;
• the bush has a dense crown.

Multicolor

Bavaria:

• diameter of inflorescences 20 cm;
• lime-colored flowers with a violet-blue center and white border;
• profuse flowering until October on last year's shoots;
• compact bush.

Hot Red:

• diameter of inflorescences 15 cm;
• red flowers with high acidity of the soil have a purple tint;
• blooms until October on last year's shoots;
• lush bush, does not lie down from massive inflorescences.

Schloss Wackerbarth:

• diameter of inflorescences 30 cm;
• inflorescences are pink with a blue center and green edging, green at the beginning of flowering;
• flowering on the shoots of last year until October-early November;
• flowers are decorated with light stamens.

Huge inflorescences, colorful petals, graceful stamens - all this is the Schloss Wackerbart variety

Often beginners are looking for a variety of "hydrangea mix". You should know that there is no such variety, this phrase denotes multi-colored hydrangeas in the composition or in the assortment of the store.

Grown houses in a hydrangea pot in the photo

The hydrangea plant gets its name from a princess of the Roman Empire named Hydrangea.
Archaeological excavations in the northern regions of America have shown that hydrangea grew 40 thousand years ago. Large-leaved hydrangea can be successfully grown both in the garden and on a home windowsill. since they found out about this plant after the first French round-the-world expedition There are about 80 species and a huge number of varieties and hybrids of hydrangea The owner of this hydrangea is an obvious original

Hydrangea care at home

From too bright sunny color, hydrangea inflorescences fade and become stained. Therefore, you need to place it on the east or west windows. Hydrangea will grow well away from the window, especially from the southern one. For flowering, diffused light hydrangea is enough.

To prevent the stems from breaking, inflorescences that are too heavy sometimes need to be supported using branch supports.

The hydrangea thrives best outdoors. Therefore, at positive temperatures, it is advisable to keep it on the balcony, veranda or take it out into the garden. If this is not possible, then regularly ventilate the room, and at high temperatures place it on the northern windows.

Try to take the hydrangea out into the fresh air more often.

Hydrangea does not like sudden changes in temperature, like drafts.

Hydrangea needs moist air:

• it is necessary to spray the hydrangea in the morning hours, especially in dry hot weather;
• in the heat, be sure to place vessels with water next to it;
• a good humidification option: put the flower in a container filled with water on a two-centimeter layer of expanded clay or coarse perlite.

Hydrangea does not tolerate drought, so the most important condition when growing it is to monitor soil moisture. It should always be slightly damp.

Use soft water when watering, as excess lime is bad for the plant. To do this, you can boil tap water, wait for the sediment to accumulate at the bottom, and drain the clean water.

From spring to autumn, it is necessary to water the hydrangea abundantly and not remove the water from the pan. To retain moisture, mulch must be laid on top of the soil. It is best to use coniferous litter or chopped pine bark for this.

What materials are used as mulch:

• coniferous litter;
• chopped pine bark;
• coniferous sawdust;
• high-moor peat;
• sphagnum moss.

In autumn, at the beginning of leaf fall, watering is reduced.

In winter, watering is needed only in order not to dry out the earthy clod and plant roots. When the first new leaves appear, watering begins to increase.

Hydrangea also does not tolerate stagnant water, it needs good drainage.

It is necessary to acidify the soil once or twice a month during watering. You can use lemon juice, citric acid for this.

• juice consumption: five drops per liter of water;
• citric acid consumption: powder at the tip of a knife per liter of water.

You need to feed the hydrangea from the beginning of spring to the end of summer 2 times a month with fertilizer for hydrangeas or for flowering plants. Fertilizers for hydrangeas contain mainly magnesium and iron.

For better and faster growth of the green mass of the plant, you can feed it with nitrogen fertilizers during the growth period - before flowering.

Dissolve granular nitrogen fertilizers in warm water and water the plant once a week.

The norm of nitrogen in the form of carbamide (urea): half a teaspoon per 1 liter of water.

For spraying, it is convenient to use ammonia (ammonia), this will also be an additional prevention of pests. They can also water the plant. It is enough to spray once a week. Ammonia use rate: half a teaspoon per 1 liter of water.

What indicators of acidity and alkalinity of the soil change the color of hydrangea

If you want to maintain or change the color of your hydrangea, then there are special feeding for this.

You can use other methods: adding aluminum sulfate or a little liming with dolomite flour or ash. These drugs are used, necessarily controlling the acidity of the soil.

If the pH is 7.0, the soil is neutral, if the value is lower, the soil is acidic, with a higher value, the soil is alkaline.

• acidic soil (Ph 3–6) with a high aluminum content maintains blue, blue and violet shades of inflorescences;
• neutral or slightly acidic soil (pH 6-7) maintains light, white colors;
• more alkaline soil (pH 7–8) with lower aluminum content gives pink and red color.

The optimum acidity for hydrangeas is in the range of 5.5–6.0 pH. Hydrangea does not tolerate strongly alkaline (calcareous) soils!With a strongly alkaline reaction of the soil, hydrangea cannot absorb iron, it develops chlorosis of the leaves, which turn yellow and fall off.

To determine acidity, you need to buy a special device.

Soil alkalinity indicators:

• slightly alkaline: pH 7–8;
• medium alkaline: pH 8–8.5;
• strongly alkaline: pH - 8.5 and above.

Do not allow alkalinity to rise above 8 pH.

Acidity is maintained by coniferous litter, pine bark, high moor peat, watering with potassium permanganate and citric acid (or lemon juice).

Alkalinity supports the presence of lime (chalk, dolomite flour) and ash in the soil.

Acidity should be measured a few days after depositing funds. If it "falls short" of the desired value, the application should be repeated.

Red inflorescences can be "repainted" in lilac and purple shades, change pink to blue. Moreover, if you water only one side of the bush with the solution, you will get a very beautiful color transition.

When using such products, make sure that they do not get on the leaves and flowers, and do not exceed the dosage!

Dosages of drugs that change the chemical composition of the soil:

• To change the pink color to blue, red to purple-lilac, you need to increase the concentration of aluminum in the soil: 1 tablespoon of aluminum sulfate per 1 liter of water.
• We change the blue color to pink, stopping feeding with aluminum and increasing the alkaline reaction of the soil: 1 teaspoon of dolomite flour evenly in the soil and monitor the alkalinity, which should be within 7-8 pH. If the pH is less than 7, add ash to the soil (1-2 tablespoons). 1-2 times a month when watering, add potassium permanganate to the water: 5-7 grains per liter of water.

Don't expect instant changes. The color can only begin to change from the second season.If the color of the hydrangea still does not change, you will have to replace the soil.

Pruning: Do's and Don'ts

If the variety is growing slowly, pruning should be done infrequently. Accordingly, if the growth of hydrangea is fast, then you will have to prune more often.

Do not forget that hydrangea inflorescences are located at the tops of the shoots, so you cannot cut them off. You can prune shoots for better branching either from only planted cuttings (in the second year after planting), or from remontant hydrangeas.

If your hydrangea gives an abundance of shoots, then you can cut off the extra ones, even with flowers, they stand in the water for a long time. Perhaps they will take root and give life to new plants.

Faded inflorescences are cut off as they dry above the uppermost bud.

Hydrangea pruning principles:

• if the plant is less than 4 years old, only dry shoots need to be cut;
• old, thickened and small shoots are cut off on hydrangeas;
• shoots for thinning are cut in the spring, and sick and dry shoots can be cut off in the fall;
• do not water the plant for a couple of days before pruning.

How to prune a hydrangea:

1. Select dry, excess or too small shoots and trim them with sharp sterile scissors or pruning shears.
2. Treat the slices with turmeric, herbs or activated carbon powder.
3. You can water the hydrangea one day after pruning, when the cuts are a little dry.

The plant should have no more than eight main trunks. On each trunk, 4–5 branches are left.

Dormant period

At the beginning of leaf fall, so that the roots do not rot, watering the hydrangea is reduced. The plant no longer consumes as much water as it does during growth and flowering, so it is important to monitor the condition of the soil. It should be about the same as wet commercial soil when you first open the package.

After dropping hydrangea leaves, it is necessary to ensure the temperature is less than 10 ° C.

The hydrangea winters best at a temperature of + 5–8 o C. Therefore, the best option is to take the plant pot to a dry basement. We must not forget to water the ground a little at this time in order to prevent the death of the root system.

If you don't have a basement, you should place the hydrangea in the coolest place in your house or apartment. She does not need light at this time.

At the very beginning of spring, the hydrangea should be brought into the house, first placing it in the coolest, but brightest place. When it grows leaves, you can move the plant to a warmer place.

Table: how to care for hydrangea

Diseases and treatment

Hydrangeas rarely get sick. But with improper care and weakening of immunity, the plant can be affected by fungal or bacterial diseases, and be attacked by pests.

The main problems when growing hydrangeas:

• if the hydrangea is kept in too humid and shaded conditions, then powdery mildew may form on the plant (fungal disease);
• in very dry and hot weather (more than + 27 ° C), hydrangea can be affected by spider mites;
• in extreme heat (more than +30 ° C), hydrangea can shed its leaves; if the sun is too strong, the leaves begin to turn yellow; the flowers dry out and wither;
• on alkaline soils (excess lime, more than 8 pH), hydrangea forms chlorosis - yellowing of the leaves;
• with insufficient air and soil moisture, the hydrangea stops blooming, the leaves dry out, the roots can dry out;
• with poor drainage and abundant watering, the roots begin to rot, as a result fungal diseases are formed.

Table: hydrangea problems and their solution

For the prevention of fungal and bacterial diseases, add a bio-agent based on beneficial bacteria to the soil during watering 1-2 times a month: Gamair, Rizoplan (Planriz), Alirin-B.

Video: diseases and pests of hydrangea

Planting (transplanting) hydrangea: choice of soil, pot and instructions

It is not possible to grow a luxurious plant in every soil. The soil for hydrangeas should be loose, sour and nutritious. You can prepare the soil yourself: sod land 2 parts, coniferous litter 1 part, peat 1 part, chopped pine bark 0.5 parts, sand 0.5 parts.

From ready-made purchased soils, you can use soils for hydrangeas, azaleas, rhododendrons, conifers.

Hydrangea loves water very much, but in the swamp it will also feel bad, the roots will start to rot and fungal diseases will appear. Therefore, when planting, it is necessary to provide it with good drainage.

Drainage includes holes in the bottom of the pot and a 1–2 cm layer of expanded clay, pebbles or coarse perlite.

The pot needs to be changed as the root system grows. Do not plant the plant in a pot that is too spacious. When the roots have completely filled the space, then repot the plant in a slightly larger pot. Hydrangea roots grow shallowly, but densely.

On average, hydrangeas need to be replanted every 3-4 years in early spring.

For planting, prepare:

• new pot;
• land;
• drainage;
• mulch: coniferous litter, chopped coniferous bark, coniferous sawdust or peat (sphagnum can also be used);
• boiled water with the addition of potassium permanganate until a slightly pink color (for watering);
• spray bottle with warm clean water (for spraying the leaves).

Landing rules:

• When planting, roots that are too long can be trimmed with sterile scissors;
• The root collar can be deepened by 2–3 cm;
• The soil is not dried out during transplantation, part of the land remains on the roots;
• After planting, the earth must be tamped so that there are no voids between the roots (this can lead to their drying out);
• When planting, the roots should be straightened down and not bend;
• After transplanting, some of the leaves of the hydrangea may fall off - this is normal.

Planting stages

1. We take out the plant from the pot, carefully separating the earthen lump from the walls with a knife.

We shake off excess soil from the roots and examine them, if necessary, cut off the excess, dry and diseased ones.

2. We pour drainage and a little earth on the bottom of the pot, put a hydrangea in the center and cover the roots with earth 2-3 cm above the root collar.
3. We tamp the earth, fill up the soil if necessary and spill it well. Spray the leaves with warm water.
4. Lay a 1-1.5 cm layer of mulch on top.

A few days after planting, the hydrangea needs to be fed with complex fertilizer.

Video: planting and growing a potted hydrangea

Reproduction of room hydrangea

Hydrangea is propagated at home by cuttings, dividing a bush or seeds. The easiest and most effective way is grafting. Hydrangea, propagated in this way, blooms in the second year after planting. Rooting of cuttings is easy both in soil and in water.

Cuttings can be made from late May to September.

Cuttings in the ground

For grafting you need to prepare:

• sterile secateurs;
• the drug Kornevin;
• planting substrate (clean sand or infertile soil);
• small low pot;
• shelter (cellophane, cut plastic bottle, etc.);
• a spray bottle with warm water;
• turmeric or charcoal powder for slicing.

For cuttings, it is better to choose green, non-lignified shoots.

Step-by-step process of grafting:

1. Cut off the selected green stalk.
2. We make a cut under the lower kidney.
3. We also cut off part of the branch above the upper bud.
4. Cut off the extra lower leaves.
5. Trim the remaining leaves by about half to reduce water evaporation
6. We dip the lower cut into Kornevin and place the lower part of the cutting slightly at an angle into a dry substrate by 1.5–2 cm. If you are planting several cuttings, the leaves should not touch the soil and each other.
7. We moisten the substrate abundantly from a spray bottle with warm water.
8. Powder the slices with turmeric or charcoal, cover the cuttings and put them in a shady, cool place for a month.

• it is necessary to check the condition of the substrate 1-2 times a week and spray it so that it does not dry out;
• the optimum temperature for rooting is + 18–25 o С;
• a month and a half after rooting, the cuttings are planted in a more nutritious mixture (one per pot). Can be planted in regular hydrangea soil;
• for winter, cuttings are prepared for rest, like ordinary hydrangeas;
• in the spring, fertilize or spray the cuttings with nitrogen fertilizer for better growth until June 1 time per week;
• in May of the following year, after planting, the cutting can be cut by 2/3 for better branching.

Video: how to propagate hydrangea by cuttings

Water rooting option

We perform the same actions as for rooting in the substrate, but we do not dip the lower cut of the cutting into Kornevin, but add this preparation to water at the tip of a knife. You can add Methylene Blue (available at aquarium stores at pet stores). It conditions and disinfects the water, protecting against fungal infections. It is enough to slightly tint the water with it to a blue tint.

Hydrangea cuttings do not emit substances that greatly spoil the water, so you do not need to change it. but only add as it evaporates.

We put the cutting in water until the roots form and plant it in the ground after the roots grow a little.

The roots usually grow within a month.

Dividing the bush

It is better to divide the bush in the spring, although this operation can be performed in the fall (before or after flowering).

To split a bush:

• we get the hydrangea out of the pot;
• shake off excess soil;
• we check the roots, cut off the dried ones if necessary.
• we are looking for a suitable place for separation and cut the bush with a sterile sharp knife;
• we plant delenki in the usual way.

Seed propagation

Plants obtained from seeds bloom in the third year.

• Hydrangea seeds are sown in February in a mixture: 4 parts of leafy land, 2 parts of peat, 1 part of sand, 1 part of humus;
• You can also sow in one of the purchased soils for hydrangeas (as well as conifers, azaleas, rhododendrons);
• Hydrangea seeds do not need pre-planting treatment, but for better germination into the water, with which you will moisten the soil from a spray bottle, you can add Epin: 7-8 drops per half liter of water.

Step-by-step instructions for sowing hydrangea seeds

1. We sow seeds superficially and evenly on a moist substrate.
2. Sprinkle with sand on top quite a bit (!). Moisten with a spray bottle and cover with glass or other transparent lid.
3. We put it in a warm, bright place (+ 18–28 o C). But not in direct sunlight!
4. We monitor the humidity, regularly spray the substrate.
5. We ventilate every day for about five minutes, wipe the glass from condensation.
6. When shoots appear, remove the glass.

The seeds germinate within a month.

Seedlings are planted in the same substrate when the first pair of leaves appears on them.

When young plants have five leaves, they need to be transplanted.

Small sprouts need to be fed with fertilizer from nitrogen and potassium 2 times a month (watered or sprayed).

The composition of the fertilizer: dilute half a teaspoon of carbamide (urea) in warm water, add a few granules of potassium permanganate (potash fertilizer) until a slightly pink color is obtained.

Despite the fact that caring for hydrangea is quite difficult, it fully justifies itself when luxurious buds appear. No other flower can compare with the hydrangea in either the size or the brightness of the inflorescences.