Railing for the stairs - the finishing touch in the design. Outdoor and indoor stair railing for home and garden

The second floor in the house involves the presence of a staircase. It is not enough to decide where it will be located, what type of stairs will be, you still need to choose what type and type of railings for stairs will be. This enclosing structure defines the appearance and style, which is very important for creating a harmonious interior.

Design, distances, sizes

Handrails for necessary for safer use, as they are a building envelope that prevents injury. There are models of stairs that do not provide any fences. They may look interesting, but using such a staircase is scary. Typically, a stair railing consists of several elements:

Such a simple design, and it has a great many options. And it is the railings for the stairs that give them a special charm and originality, set the style.

Materials

The main structural elements of the railing for the stairs - racks - are made of wood of different species and metal. Handrails can be made of metal, wood and plastic. In the case of filling, such materials as glass, plastic, rope, textiles and many others are added. But even more often, the railing for the stairs is made combined - combining two or three materials in one product.

Wooden stair railings

Wood for the manufacture of railings on stairs has been used for a very long time. It is good in that you can make elements in any style. It is possible with a variety of carvings, patterns - for interiors in a classic style. You can simple geometric shapes - for interiors more rigorous style. There is still the opportunity to make / paint / varnish in different ways.

Wooden railing for stairs can be not only of traditional design ....

What's good is that the wooden railing for the stairs can be done with your own hands. If there is little experience in carpentry, you can find simple decor. The wood itself - due to color, texture - is quite aesthetic, so that even simple products look great.

In this case, “just” does not mean “bad”. The main thing is that the design of the railings fit into the concept of interior design. Laconic styles - minimalism, modernism, loft - fit better with a simple design. Curly balusters and decorations of supporting pillars - traditional forms of decorating stair railings

If we talk about which species of wood it is better to make a railing for a staircase, then harder varieties with a pronounced structure are preferred: beech, oak, cherry. Of conifers - cedar, larch. They make stair railings from pine and spruce, but pine products are too soft, you have to be careful and it’s hard to process the spruce. The rest of the breeds listed above, in principle, is also not a dream in processing, but they are very beautiful, so usually they turn a blind eye to complexity.

Metal railing for stairs

The railing of metal is perhaps even more diverse. There are three ways to make metal railings for stairs: welding, forging, assembly from pipes and fittings.

Metal railings from pipes and fittings and forged ... the difference in style and ... price

Moreover, forging is not necessarily a hot process. There are, which make it possible to make the most diverse twisted and bent elements. Plus, there are possible “hot” processes. This in itself gives considerable scope for imagination. And you can use different metals and rolled products:

• Round or square bar.
• Round or profile (square or rectangular) pipe.

In this case, the metal can be: ordinary black or structural steel with subsequent painting with a variety of paints, stainless, nickel, chrome pipes of various sections. There are even options with bronze or copper elements.

Plant motifs are not only flowers and leaves. Geometry, which is underlined by color ... Metal railings for stairs can be of different styles. Complex, simple, geometric ...

Since the metal is more plastic, from which they just do not. Floral ornaments, geometric, fantasy, those that are even difficult to determine.

Glass

In the usual sense, glass is a fragile thing, but for stair railings a special one is used - tempered or laminated. Laminated glass - duplex or triplex. This is a sheet of glass glued with a transparent polymer film. The technology is such that the transparency of the glass does not suffer at all, and the strength increases significantly. A similar material is used for machines. Even if with a strong blow it will break, it will not fly apart, and the fragments will hang on the film.

There are two types of stair railings made of glass: base frame (only of glass) and when glass is only filling

Tempered glass is made using a different technology. It is heated to high temperature, then, blowing air from two sides, quickly brought to normal temperature. After such processing, it becomes several times stronger, well withstands shock loads, breaking, crumbles into fragments with smooth not sharp edges.

In general, both types of glass are safe. In addition, they look good, since such structures do not look massive and heavy. Glass can be transparent, tinted, colored. If desired, you can make a drawing according to the type of stained glass. Since the filling is solid, this type of fence can be considered absolutely safe. The remaining technological gaps of a few centimeters are safe even for small pets.

And the staircase does not seem so heavy and bulky ... On the glass there may also be a drawing ... Almost a classic ...

There are glass railings that have wooden or metal support poles, and there are handrails. These models can most likely be called combined. For the most part, glass is placed between the pillars; a handrail is made of the same material on top. Such railings turn out to be practically weightless; they do not close the review. They can be used both indoors and outdoors. They are especially good for balconies, loggias or terraces, as they do not interfere with the view.

There are also “pure glass” railings for stairs, in which there is nothing besides glass. An interesting option for non-standard interiors. For these designs use duplex or triplex with a thickness of 10 mm or more, which increases their cost in comparison with the "frame" options, where you can put cheaper tempered glass.

Plastic railing for stairs

In the stair railing, plastic can be used in the form of handrails. Round, oval, rectangular handrails made of plastic - a budget and practical option. Budgetary - because such railings are inexpensive, practical - because smooth plastic is easy to wipe, and it does not rub, it does not require replacing the paintwork. The only thing that can damage it is a significant shock load. But it is critical for all types of pearls.

Metal stairs with plastic railing - one of the most practical and durable options.

Still can be made of plastic balusters. In this case, a metal core is inserted into the plastic (usually PVC). It will carry the load, and plastic is just a decorative element. Ladders with plastic elements are cheaper, but no less durable. After all, PVC, which is usually made by stair railings, does not rot, does not lose its properties over the years. The material is not natural, but practical.

Combined railing for stairs: beautiful options

A lot of unusual and decorative stair railings are obtained with a combination of two or even three materials. The combination of wood and metal, wood and glass, metal and glass, all three of these materials give an unimaginable number of options and variations.

Welding frames, inserting transparent glass into them is simple and effective. With patterned glass it looks just as good ... Wood, forging and glass - everything is harmonious and emphasizes the advantages of the “neighbors”

Area of \u200b\u200buse

At the location of the stairs, there are internal and external. Both those and others are equipped with a handrail. Usually, the railings for internal stairs have a more refined filling than for external ones, but this is not always the case. There are very beautiful forged or wooden railings for, stairs to the second floor.

Design Type Selection

If the house has a balcony, terrace, it is logical if their fence will exactly repeat the pattern of the railing for the outer staircase. The exception is usually a staircase to the attic. They try to make them less visible in this case, most often they use a simple attached ladder, which can be removed or laid along the base.

If there is a need to make a stationary climb, you can beat it, make it a screw or with rotary platforms, arrange a beautiful railing. The second option is to make a simple vertical staircase by welding small handrails on the sides. How much this option fits into the design of the house is a matter of architecture, but it is definitely cheaper.

Plastic and glass for street railing

If we talk about materials for the railing of external stairs, then you can use any: wood, and metal, and glass, and plastic. When choosing plastic hand-held or filling, it is necessary to clarify whether it withstands operation at subzero temperatures and the effect of ultraviolet radiation. If so, you can bet without hesitation.

It is even simpler with glass - it does not react to temperature or ultraviolet. The only thing that can stop is its fragility. But, if you use tempered or laminated glass, this fragility is apparent. But the glass railing on the porch, balcony, terrace absolutely does not interfere with the review.

Features of metal on the street

With metal, not everything is clear, but everything is clear. If the railing for stairs made of stainless, galvanized or nickel-plated pipes is chosen, you must first ask whether they are intended for outdoor use. Yes, there is such a "stainless steel" that is for internal use only.

If the railings for the stairs are made of ferrous metal, they will have to be painted. Moreover, it is necessary to use paint for outdoor work. Each element must be thoroughly cleaned to pure metal, cleaned of rust or scale, primed and then painted. So there will be a guarantee that for several years the street railing for the stairs will look normal. The bad news is that sooner or later the paint will give up its position, it will have to be cleaned, primed and painted again. But this is inevitable and not news to anyone.

Processing of wooden railings for external use

With wood, everything is simpler and more complicated. As you know, she feels pretty well on the street, but as well as ferrous metal, it requires careful processing. Before installation / assembly, the elements of the wooden railing for the stairs are impregnated with protective compounds for external use. Please note that some of them stain the wood in an uncharacteristic color (red, greenish, grayish). If you plan to paint the railing with covering paint, this is not so important. But if you are only going to change the tone, make it darker or lighter, such “highlighting” is a big hindrance, especially for light tones.

After the protective coating dries, you can apply paint / varnish / oil for wood. There are few questions with paints and varnishes: it is necessary that they be suitable for outdoor use. Tone, degree of brilliance you choose according to your own taste.

About wood oil (can be written "for terraces" and something like that) it is worth saying a few words separately. It does not create a protective film on the surface, but penetrates between the fibers, creating a protective barrier a few millimeters thick. This type of protective coating is good in that when updating, there is no need to remove the old. Just on top of clean, dried wood, a new coat is applied. All, no removal of old varnish or paint. Grinding - only if necessary, if during the operation some places are wiped out or damaged. Less oil for wood - it's expensive. But worth it.

In the manufacture of stairs, it is impossible to ignore such an important structural element as the railing. This mandatory component of the staircase railing performs several useful functions at once - it increases the safety and comfort of the system, as well as gives the staircase a complete aesthetic shape.

What types of railings for stairs are the most popular today, as well as how to install them yourself, guided by the installation instructions, this article will tell further. You will also find magnificent photos of the railing and a useful video on their own installation.

Handrails play an important role in the entire staircase - they provide not only comfortable movement, but also are a decorative element of the staircase.

Railing for stairs in the house - classification by type

Railing is an element of the staircase railing, which is responsible for the convenience and safety of a person moving along staircases. In addition, the handrails are also a stylish and spectacular decoration of the step design itself.

  Today in the construction market there is an incredible number of ready-made railings for stairs in a private house

When designing a staircase railing, you need to know what the main types of railings exist in the construction of these systems. Today, the most popular among consumers are the following types of handrails:

The most popular and more often used among developers are wooden, metal and forged railings. We will talk about these types in more detail.

  Forged railings are very effective, but only a professional craftsman can make them

Metal

Very often in country houses you can find stairs with metal railings. They are placed on step structures made of various materials - concrete, metal, wood, plastic and so on.

Fences made of stainless lightweight metal have a lot of advantages - they are convenient, comfortable and cheap at a price

For the manufacture of metal fencing, the following types of metal are used:

• steel;
• aluminum;
• cast iron;
• brass and others.

Aluminum, for example, is good because it is not afraid of corrosion, and also easy to install.

  Aluminum handrails can be easily made by yourself with an aluminum profile and all the necessary tools

Forged

Forged railings are openwork, weightless and very beautiful. However, only those masters who are familiar with blacksmithing can make them. Therefore, if you dream about this kind of staircase fence in your house, then you will have to turn to a professional craftsman in order to order these magnificent products.

  Openwork and fabulously beautiful wrought iron railings will make the staircase in the house the center of attention

Wooden

The most common material for stair railings at all times was wood. Such popularity is due to the mass of the undoubted advantages of this material, among which:

• environmental Safety;
• beautiful natural view;
• simplicity in processing and installation;
• economical price;
• long service life.

  Wooden railings are most popular among developers, since it is difficult to find a more comfortable and beautiful natural material

In addition, the railing made of wood is unusually comfortable and pleasant to the touch. It is this material that is most preferable for the manufacture of DIY fencing. Therefore, later in the article we will consider step-by-step instructions for installing wooden railings on your home staircase.

The main components of the fence

Before you start installing the railing with your own hands, you need to have an idea of \u200b\u200bwhat kind of parts these are and what constituent elements are included in them.

  It is only possible for those who have certain carpentry skills to make wooden railings with their own hands, it is much more convenient to purchase ready-made products in the store

So, the wooden staircase handrails consist of:

• two main support racks;
• baluster;
• handrails;
• decorative elements.

The photo below shows the fencing scheme with the image of its main components.

  Before you start installing the railing with your own hands, study this diagram with an image of all the components of the staircase railing

DIY railing installation instructions

The whole process of mounting handrails made of natural wood consists of the following basic steps:

1. Handrail calculation.
2. Preparation of material and inventory.
3. Mounting.
4. Dressing.

Let's consider each of these points in more detail.

  Even such magnificent railings can be made with your own hands, if you put maximum patience and effort into it.

Design

At the very beginning of the work, you should clearly imagine what the fence should be like at your staircase. Then sketch your vision on paper. At the same time, you can use ready-made design drawings, which are very many on the Internet.

  Draw a fence before installing it or use a ready-made drawing

It is important to remember that the height of the fence for its comfortable operation should not be lower than 90 centimeters.

After that, you can safely go to the nearest construction supermarket for the necessary accessories for the railing.

  For all the necessary accessories for the fence, go to the nearest construction market

It should be noted that it is not at all necessary to buy wooden billets, and then cut handrails from them. Today in the construction market you can find a huge variety of a variety of finished products. You can simply select the ones you like most.

  Another idea for the fence to your staircase, which you can use during installation

Preparation of components and tools

For more efficient work, make sure that all the necessary components and tools are at your fingertips.

So, to install the railing you will need:

• electric drill with drills;
• jigsaw;
• screwdriver;
• hacksaw;
• screwdriver Set;
• hammer;
• chisel;
• building level.

  In addition to tools, you definitely need to stock up on wooden railing blanks

Mounting

This stage is the most laborious and responsible. Follow it, guided by this step-by-step instruction:

1. On the staircase, take measurements and make marks on the places where you will have racks. At the same time, remember the basic requirements for the railing:

2. We proceed to the installation of two load-bearing posts, for which, using a drill in the treads, we make indentations (pits) up to 1 cm.

  When installing balusters, follow certain standard requirements, including that the distance between the products is at least 15 cm

3. Between the installed racks we stretch a fishing line or a rope, focusing on the markings made under the balusters.

4. We proceed to the installation of the balusters themselves, installing them exactly with the help of a level.

  Balusters can be the most diverse in shape and style, you can choose the one you like most at the hardware store

5. At this step, we mark out the railings and make holes in them for attaching to balusters.

6. Screw the rail to the balusters.

  This figure shows the principle of securing the fence to the staircase.

Dressing

At this final stage, we eliminate all burrs and roughness that arose during the installation using sandpaper or a grinding machine. Then we cover the installed railing with varnish or paint with wood paint.

  Be sure to complete the installation of the fence with decorative measures for processing the handrails with varnish or paint

Video: do-it-yourself wooden handrail installation on stairs

You can buy beautiful and reliable staircases with magnificent railing already installed in the online store "Stairs Master" at the lowest and affordable prices in Moscow and the Moscow region.

Today we will consider the issue of securing balusters and railings when installing wooden stairs. Even a person who is not sophisticated in the intricacies of carpentry can understand how wooden stairs have a rich and noble appearance, they are so difficult to manufacture and assemble.

Calculation and manufacturing of parts

The wooden staircase guard consists of three key elements:

1. Handrail - horizontal or inclined elements for which a hand grip is carried out.
2. Baluster - vertical supports between steps and rails.
3. Pillars or pedestals - vertical posts, in which the ends of the railing abut. Usually pillars have chiseled or carved heads.

Details of each group are made individually, after which they are assembled at the installation site. Pillars and balusters are made mainly by turning, and the railing - by milling.

It is necessary to start calculating the fence precisely from the railing, including straight and curved segments. In the general case, the configuration of the railing is determined by the shape of the stairs in the plan. The basis for calculations is taken to be the external faces of the steps, the railing is located with some indentation from them to the center of the flight of stairs. The offset is necessary so that the fulcrum of the pillars and balusters is not located on the very edge. The size of the indentation is determined by the cross-section of the supports, plus some arbitrary value is added, which is dictated by considerations of aesthetics. It is also necessary to take into account such specific circumstances as the overlap of spans in the plan, achieving a symmetrical indentation on adjacent marches and at the same time preserving the width of the passage.

In space, the individual parts of the railing can be located strictly horizontally and under the general slope of the stairs. The calculation of the length and size of horizontal segments can be done by displaying a sketch of the fencing on the drawing of the staircase plan. Inclined elements are calculated in a similar way, but to calculate their actual length, it is necessary to divide the projection length by the cosine of the angle at which the stairwell is inclined relative to the horizontal normal.

When calculating pillars and balusters, several requirements apply, the most important of which is the height of the fences. According to GOST, the railing of the stairs should rise above the plane of the steps of at least 90 cm in residential buildings and at least 120 cm in public institutions and on street flights of stairs. The axial profile of the pillars and balusters can be arbitrary, but there are certain requirements: the thickness of the pillars in the support plane should be at least 10% of their height, balusters can be 2-2.5 times thinner. The length of the balusters should be equal to the height of the fence + 7-10%, while in the basement, a uniform profile (preferably faceted) should be maintained for a length of at least 5% of the total. Pillars are made in an amount of at least two for each flight of stairs, the number of balusters is equal to or double the number of steps.

The width of the railing in the plan should be less than the thickness of the cut of the columns in the adjoining zone by about 30-50 mm and more than the thickness of the balusters by 15-20 mm. The milling profile can be arbitrary, but the rounded tip with the presence of two longitudinal necks for a more reliable girth is considered the preferred option. The length of the handrail segments should have an allowance of 50-80 mm on both sides for cutting and fitting.

Pre-assembly and preparation for installation

Before starting the installation of the stairs, it is necessary to first assemble straight-line railing segments on the adhesive joints. The spatial location of the handrails is a guide for calculating the attachment points of the vertical elements of the fence. Since the railing is precisely machined and has a flat bottom, it is convenient to use them as a straight rail for further marking.

Sometimes at the corners and turns of flights of stairs, the distance between the marches makes it necessary to install short inserts of handrails between the posts. Depending on the configuration of the stairs, these sections are collected either from one or more radius segments, or from linear segments. The railing elements are prepared and glued in advance, the connection is made on countersunk type “dominoes” or on 2-3 cylindrical dowels.

Also, before starting work, wooden dowels should be stocked in the right amount for fastening balusters and pillars. It is also desirable to cut the pillars themselves in size: if this was not possible to do in the workshop, then due to the significant cross-section, processing with a miter saw is not possible. It is better to mark along the perimeter of the basement under the square, making sure that the end of the last line coincides with the beginning of the first. This line is trimmed with a hand saw with a small tooth, preferably 3-5 mm deep into each face. For greater certainty, the clamp rail can be fixed with clamps.

Marking and fastening of poles

Pillars are the base for positioning the entire staircase railing. They are located on each upper and lower step of each flight of stairs. In the presence of intermediate platforms, including turning ones, this rule also needs to be observed. At the same time, the topmost pillar may be common to the railing and balustrade.

Factory posts are of two types: solid and box-shaped, that is, glued from strips of thick plywood or wood shields. It is very important that in each column there is a straight edge at the junction of the handrails, because in case of joining with a round support, factory trimming of the railing edges is required, which significantly complicates the installation process.

Hollow columns are fixed through the boss - 150-200 mm section of the beam, the outer dimension of which corresponds to the cavity of the column. The boss is mounted through a through axial hole by means of a stud screwed into a step or platform. This mounting method allows the column to rotate around its axis and a small transverse play for its accurate positioning. Gluing the hollow column is carried out on glue of a thick consistency, previously the lower end is lubricated with a small amount of sealant, this girdle along the perimeter will exclude the extrusion of excess glue.

A - box pillar with fastening through the boss. B - one-piece post with mount on dowel. 1 - pillar; 2 - base; 3 - baseboard; 4 - hairpin or anchor; 5 - dowel

Mounting of monolithic pillars is carried out on one large (20-30 mm) dowel or on several small, evenly distributed over the support area. With this method of attachment, it is desirable that the junction of the column to the site is framed by a skirting board, which helps to hide the glue line and increase the plane of support. If you have a skirting board, you can also use the fastening method with screeds for cabinet furniture, since the niches for the nuts will ultimately be hidden anyway.

Alignment of poles is better with parallel pairs, that is, at intermediate sites where flights of stairs converge. The distance between the posts should provide a sufficiently large clearance between the lower handrail and the steps of the upper march. In the longitudinal direction, the position of the pillars is determined by two long straight rails laid on the edges of the steps of the converging marches. The plane laid across the line of intersection of the rails is an ideal position for installing poles. If necessary, they can be moved towards the spans, but not back, otherwise the railing will have overlap. When paired poles are positioned on platforms and corners, the end poles are marked according to the same principle, it is important that the pairing with the railing is carried out at the same height.

Trimming, installation of balusters

Looking ahead, we note that the sequence of fastening the balusters to the steps, to the handrails, as well as the handrails themselves to the posts can be different depending on the method of assembling the fence. Previously, all balusters need to be cut and mark the places of their fastening.

The bottom of the balusters is best mounted on dowels with zero tolerance by drilling the steps to a depth of 20 mm. To mark the centers of the holes, it is necessary to shoot off a vertical plane parallel to the end face of the steps with a laser level. If balusters are installed in the amount of one piece per step, it is enough to use the square to find its middle, based on the riser. When paired with balusters, it is necessary to achieve their uniform step, for which the protrusion of the upper step above the lower one is beaten off with a square, and the remaining "clean" width is divided so that the centers of the balusters are 1/4 of the distance from the edges.

When installing balusters, it is important to maintain their heads strictly on the same line

Balusters with a figured profile should be aligned in length relative to the handrails. To do this, they are laid out on a flat plane, combining profiles along their widest part. Further, a line is drawn under a long straight rail, which serves as a marking for facing at a right angle.

An oblique section of the top of the baluster is performed on a miter saw or in a precision miter box. Balusters are trimmed in groups for each flight of stairs. First you need to determine the actual slope of the stairs, laying a rail on the edges of the steps and repelling the horizontal axis along it with a laser level. Based on this marking, a template is made with the help of the malka, according to which the rotary table of the saw is precisely tuned.

Before oblique pruning at the ends of the balusters, centering holes are made, their depth should be sufficient to penetrate the dowel at least 40 mm after trimming. In the lower part, drilling is carried out after trimming the balusters in length. It is quite simple to do this: first, two extreme balusters of each span are installed dry and strictly vertically, which are temporarily fastened together by a regular rail with a straight edge aligned with the upper edge of the oblique section. Then, in turn, the balusters are put in place, the excess length is determined with a caliper and the lower end is cut, if necessary, deepening the center hole and necessarily numbering the details.

Handrail Mount

The handrail can be attached to the posts by various methods, among which the most popular are fixing on spikes or self-tapping screws with through holes. The first method is more time-consuming and often it is not possible to mount on the spikes without a groove milling cutter with fine-tuning the sole's inclination. In the second case, installation is simpler, but mounting holes remain on the backs of the posts, which must be covered with decorative plugs.

Railing railing

The railing is attached to the balusters in two ways. Simple - by means of a support rod and slightly more complex - by wooden dowels. The choice of mounting method depends entirely on the profile of the handrail: when fixing to the intermediate rail, a rectangular groove to the appropriate depth should be selected in the lower face of the product. The handrails for mounting on dowels should also have a groove equal to the width of the base part of the balusters, but it is intended solely to mask the mounting points and should have a depth of 5-7 mm.

The final assembly of the fence, as mentioned, can take place in different sequences. When attaching to the support rail, balusters are first glued to the steps on the dowels, after which the rail is mounted, and then the cutting and fastening of the handrail with screws from the bottom are carried out. When installing the balusters on the dowels and attaching the handrails to the posts with self-tapping screws, first all the railings are glued, while drilling in them must be performed with an admission: in this case, landing on liquid nails will allow for more accurate alignment. If the balusters are mounted on dowels, and the posts to the handrails are studded, the stands are installed last, which requires the simultaneous positioning of all the elements of the staircase in a short period of glue setting.

Finishing Handrail

As a rule, the protections of wooden stairs are assembled from already primed and painted parts. In such cases, it remains only to disguise the places where the handrails are spliced, their adjoining to the posts and balusters to the steps, where gaps up to 1-1.5 mm thick can form. To fill the gaps, you can use acrylic sealant or carpentry paste based on natural wax.

If the wooden parts do not have a protective coating at the time of assembly, the cracks in them are closed up with putty on wood, and then the entire fence is primed and painted along with the staircase. It is recommended that two layers of clear, water-soluble soil be applied, followed by fine sanding to remove the raised pile. Next, the steps are covered with a stain or azure in 2-3 layers. It is recommended to choose two layers of transparent polyurethane varnish as the main protective coating.

Hello, Semenych! I really liked your story about how to arrange the stairs myself - very sensible and even without grammatical errors, which in our time is simply amazing. I am writing in the hope of getting advice from an experienced craftsman. The bottom line is as follows. We built a 2-story extension to the old apartment. Due to financial difficulties, a primitive wooden staircase was built (so far without a railing). A young family with a 9-month-old child lives upstairs, while we, the elderly, are downstairs. The child is very active, and the question arose about the arrangement of the railing in order to avoid trouble. For the same financial reasons, we cannot afford to invite specialists; we can make wooden railings ourselves - there is no skill and knowledge. At the family council, they decided to make the railing in the simplest version: the racks are made of \\ "square \\" metal pipes, placed 0.5 m from each other, the filling between the racks is transparent polycarbonate 6-10 mm thick. Technical characteristics of polycarbonate (strength) seem to allow its use in such quality. The problem is its mounting to the racks. What would you advise about this and the whole project?

Sincerely, Izmailov Vladimir, Ulyanovsk.

Hello Vladimir from Ulyanovsk!

The question, as they say, is of course interesting. My grandson has exactly as many months as your grandson (or granddaughter?). And he climbs wherever possible and where not at all. Behind such guys eyes, but the eye is constantly needed.

The issue can be resolved dramatically by changing floors for living. Which of course will not save in a couple - three months from running around the child up and down the stairs.

The idea of \u200b\u200busing a profile pipe and polycarbonate sheets for mounting a staircase deserves attention. No one will give a guarantee of 100% that such a ladder will not be broken by a child (meaning polycarbonate). But you can try to foresee all sorts of incidents.

I am interested in statistics on child injuries in our country. There are many incidents with children who are injured on a swing, especially metal ones. Sometimes “smart” kostruktors make a swing so that there is a distance of about 10 centimeters between the swing rack and the armature on which the seat is mounted, which is commensurate with the child’s head. With all the consequences. Or the mosquito net on the plastic windows of the loggia does not have a reliable fastening, as a result of which it may end up on the ground with a child resting on it. And much more.

Many years ago, my teacher, Doctor of Technical Sciences, Grigory Illarionovich Leskov said the words engraved in his memory: "Every mechanism or design should be designed for a fool." It was meant, not that all people are fools, but that everything should be so, or strive for such perfection so as not to provoke a person to any troubles in any way.

If you climbed into the switchboard, then when you open the door, the electricity should turn off. If you walk on the steps of a concrete staircase, then the ceramic tiles on them should not be slippery in any weather. If there is a ladder, then the more it has platforms and turns, the less likely it is that when a person crashes on the upper step, he is guaranteed not to fly to the lower step.

This says that with any design of your staircase, it should not be cooler than 45 degrees, but it is better to have a slope of about 30 degrees. To have wide and low steps. A platform with a width of two or three steps across a meter, a maximum of one and a half, will not let you roll far.

I will not bore you with the calculations that need to be done before you begin to build the stairs, especially since you do not ask about this. Nevertheless - steps in the height of about 150 millimeters and their width of about 300 millimeters are considered optimal in individual housing construction. At least such sizes in old merchant and lordly houses, as well as in monastic cells, or rather the stairs leading to them. And everything is done there from boards with a thickness of 50 to 70 millimeters. Baluster racks on such stairs are installed, as a rule, at each step.

That is, if you compare with your intention to put metal profile pipes through 0.5 meters, then they have a little less distance. But since you intend to install a protective fence in the form of polycarbonate sheets between the racks, this is quite acceptable.

The thickness of cellular polycarbonate is better to take 10 millimeters, this is more reliable. They don’t argue about tastes, but I choose yellow from all the colors of polycarbonate, it even makes a person happy in cloudy weather and indoors, and it costs only a couple of hundred rubles more than transparent sheet of that size (size 6 / 2.1 meters).

To use the cut more economically and reduce material waste, the cell structure of polycarbonate sheets can be arranged not strictly vertically with respect to the floor surface, but perpendicularly with respect to the plane of the bowstring (unless, of course, you have slanting).

It is best to fix polycarbonate sheets to metal racks from a profile pipe using self-tapping screws with a washer. A self-tapping screw is taken with a carving for metal, and not for wood. Such a self-tapping screw has a tip at its end - a kind of drill and can be wrapped in metal without first drilling holes in this metal. However, first try to practice on the workpiece, which can then be thrown away. Otherwise, you risk not spoiling your efforts to spoil the polycarbonate sheets and break them in the place of fasteners.

If this does not work, then first, in the places where the polycarbonate sheets are attached to the metal posts, drill holes with a drill a couple of hundredths of a millimeter in diameter smaller than the outer diameter of the screw. And only then wrap the screw itself. All this is done with an electric drill or a screwdriver and a bat or a head for a self-tapping screw.

So that the upper edge of the polycarbonate sheets does not spoil the hands during the ups and downs on your homemade staircase, it is covered with a handrail (railing) from above so that the edges do not stick out. Better yet, cover this slice from above and below at the junction points with a wooden fillet. With the fastening of the fillets, screw the head in so as not to tear the palms of the hands.

(By the way, about the railing. In your version with metal racks, of course, they can also be made from a metal profile pipe and welded with electrodes to the racks. Or from wood, purchased, but then the metal racks cut at an angle of the railing, are fixed with wood screws with preliminary drilling of racks at a right angle under these self-tapping screws.

Polycarbonate sheets are best secured from the stairs. With a height of pipe racks of about 0.9 meters, fastening is carried out by two to three self-tapping screws.

Railing is an indispensable attribute of the staircase structure. They perform the function of a protective element that ensures the safety of movement along the span. The railing is characterized by a variety of forms and materials, they can be simple in appearance, and made in an unusual, original style. This enclosing element can be a bright design addition to the interior, become a chic decoration of any home.

Having studied various photos of the railing for stairs, you can verify the variability of these structural elements and choose the option that is most suitable for your case.

It’s easy to make a railing for stairs with your own hands. We’ll try to figure out how to make the fencing elements for the staircase yourself, what material is better to use, where to start the installation process.

Material selection

First you need to figure out what materials the stair railings are made of. The following fencing elements are most popular.

Aluminum If you prefer a railing made of aluminum, then making them yourself will be difficult. Basically, such products are sold ready-made, and you just have to make the right calculations, buy the required number of enclosing elements, assemble them with your own hands and familiarize yourself with the step-by-step installation of the railing for the stairs.

Chrome plated. They, like the previous ones, are sold in finished stores in construction stores, so to install them on your own you need to perform the steps listed above.

Forged. Such fences look incredibly beautiful and interesting, however, making forged railings at home is a rather complicated task.

Hot forging can be carried out only in a specially equipped room, as for cold forging, it can be done at home, however, you need to know the basics of this process and have all the necessary tools in the arsenal.

Made of stainless steel. Such handrails are very durable, strong and reliable, however, in order to install them yourself you will need skills in welding and metal cutting.

Wooden. This is the most popular material used in the manufacture and installation of handrails on their own. Let us dwell in more detail on the wooden enclosing elements, provide the reader with a brief instruction on how to make a railing from wood.

Wooden stair railings

Wood has long been used to create railings, the main advantages of this material: wood allows you to create a fence of any stylistic orientation, shape, with interesting carvings, ornaments. In addition, there are many options for decorating wooden fences, they can be painted, varnished, etc.

For beginners, it is better to start with such handrails, in the absence of experience in the carpentry you can choose a simple design, the tree due to its texture will in any case look interesting and aesthetically pleasing in the interior.

Let's try to figure out how to properly make the railing for the stairs from wood. First, decide on the type of tree, it will be a beech, pine, oak, birch or something else. The costs of production, the quality of the railing, their resistance to sudden changes in temperature, susceptibility to decay, ease of processing will depend on the selected breed.

Secondly, get acquainted with the main parts of the stair railings. The following elements will be present at any railing: handrails, racks, balusters, stands.

Particular attention should be paid to balusters, because the appearance of a flight of stairs will depend on them. You can make them in the form of neat columns, if it is possible to use locksmith equipment - to carve various patterns and ornaments on the surface.

Hand cutting can turn these structural elements into a real work of art, the scope for creativity is incredibly wide, craftsmen grind out figures of people, animals and other incredible compositions from the bars.

After preparing all the necessary elements, the question arises, how to install the railing on the stairs. Wooden curly posts can be attached directly to the steps, using grooves or metal studs, while flat balusters (presented in the form of thin boards) are best mounted on a special bar located 10 centimeters above the bowstring.

In this case, the handrail of the railing, timber and curbstones will form a frame, where it is necessary to put flat balusters. The distance between the crossbars in both cases should be no more than 15 centimeters.

So in general terms, the process of supplementing a flight of stairs with enclosing elements looks like. Thinking to carry out the installation of the railing, evaluate your strength, choose the right project, calculate how many materials you will need to work, prepare the necessary tools and proceed to this interesting lesson.

Photo of the railing for the stairs