Overlap and its types. Installation of floors

Foam concrete has recently been in high demand among developers. Residential buildings of various storeys, outbuildings, garages are erected from it. The material is characterized by durability, environmental friendliness, low weight, warmth and ease of processing. However, during the operation of the house from the foam block, one unpleasant defect may appear - cracks in the walls. The purpose of this article is to familiarize readers with the causes of cracks in foam concrete walls and how to resolve the problem.

Causes of cracks

If a crack appeared in the wall of foam blocks, it is necessary to find out the cause of its occurrence. Thus, in most cases, it is possible to prevent its further distribution. The wall is cracking for the following reasons:

Mistakes in the construction of the foundation. Many inexperienced builders naively believe that building a strong foundation is not required for lightweight foam concrete. In fact, the service life of the entire structure depends on the quality of the foundation. It is necessary to ensure that the foundation is laid to the depth of freezing of the soil, and its width is slightly greater than the width of the foam blocks. In addition, under the foundation, lay a sand cushion with a layer of 8-10 cm.
The technology of masonry blocks is broken. For this, cement mortar was used instead of glue. The resulting cold bridges could very well provoke the appearance of cracks due to temperature differences.
Foam concrete blocks were used wet. In the process of their drying, the process of shrinkage of the material is observed, which contributes to the appearance of cracks. And if the wet blocks fit on the eve of frost, then the wet material will literally be torn during freezing.
Cracked material may indicate that during the masonry process the reinforcement of each 4th row of blocks was not applied.
If the height of the house exceeds 1 floor, it is necessary to install a reinforced concrete belt on the walls before installing the floor. If such a belt was not erected, then the walls crack, possibly due to uneven stress on their various parts.
The foundation is being built under the external and internal walls of the house. If the depth of its occurrence under the internal walls is less than under the external, then a gap can easily appear.
It is necessary to use material with the same density for masonry walls. That is, you need to purchase it in one place and one brand. It is undesirable for one masonry to use foam blocks of different manufacturers or to use composite materials.

Attention! If vertical cracks appeared mainly in the middle of the wall, then, most likely, the weak foundation is to blame. In this case, it is necessary to strengthen it, and only then proceed to eliminate the cracks.

In any case, if the wall of foam concrete is cracked, you can restore the integrity of the structure even on your own. Below will be described how to repair cracks in the house of the foam block.

Classification of cracks in a foam concrete wall

Mechanical cracks. They differ from shrinkage cracks in larger width and length. In the vast majority of cases, they arise as a result of movements or destruction of the foundation. Less likely to occur due to subsidence of the entire structure on quicksand. To eliminate the cause of the gap, it is necessary to examine the foundation under the crack. For this, it is desirable to expose it. If there are problems, then the foundation is reinforced with a concrete pad.
Shrinkage cracks. They are less dangerous. Differ in small width. Often are horizontal. The sealing of such gaps is not difficult.

Depending on the type of crack, they are sealed in different ways.

Methods for sealing cracks on foam concrete walls

First of all, it is necessary to determine the reason why the wall bursts. Then try to eliminate this cause. After this, you can begin to seal the cracks. There are several ways to do this.

Small cracks (shrink)

The crack formation site is cleaned of plaster, dusted off with water and primed.
Stitching is done. They expand with a metal spatula to the required width. The seam length is also forcibly increased.
We close the seam with adhesive for foam concrete or with a mixture consisting of foam concrete chips, water and cement.
A certain time is required for solidification of the mortar.

Large mechanical cracks

To eliminate wide cracks, it is necessary to reinforce them, and the seams themselves to be sealed with one of the following materials:

Adhesive for masonry foam concrete.
Cement mortar with silicate chips.
Polyurethane foam.
Epoxy adhesive.

Reinforcement is performed over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe occurrence of the crack with an indent from it at least 40 cm from the sides. This can be done in several ways:

The reinforcement site is freed from plaster. At equal distances on the sides of the seam anchors are driven in, between which a wire or mesh is stretched. You can use a netting net or a metal building net. Above the grid or wire are plastered. The thickness of the plaster layer is about 2-3 cm.
All plaster is removed from the crack area. A fiberglass reinforcing mesh is glued onto the crack. For this, the adhesive composition used for masonry foam is used. On top of the reinforcing mesh is sealed with the same solution. After it dries, the wall is plastered and plastered.

The appearance of cracks on the walls in a house built of foam blocks is a frequent occurrence. In the vast majority of cases, this phenomenon is not dangerous, as it is a natural process of shrinkage and drying of building materials. It is recommended to adhere to certain building codes in the process of building houses to prevent gaps. Well, in case of their occurrence, take measures to eliminate this unpleasant phenomenon using one of the methods described above.

When constructing residential buildings, concrete slabs are often used. These reinforced concrete products are used both for overlapping floors and for building walls. They are made of high quality concrete using a reinforced frame. Reliability and durability of buildings mainly depends on the quality of the materials used.

The scheme of insulation of the floor slab.

Ceiling slab

It features enhanced strength, which allows them to be used in places with an increased risk of sagging. Maximum protection against various deformations, but at the same time poor sound insulation. It has a large weight, which is a significant disadvantage of this type during construction.

Hollow structures

Drawing of a hollow core slab.

The most popular, due to the light weight of the product. Due to the voids of these plates, low thermal conductivity and good sound insulation. The cost of manufacturing is significantly less than in the manufacture of monolithic plates. They are often made ribbed or from cellular concrete.

Floor slabs are mainly made in fixed sizes. And when designing a building, it is imperative to take into account the dimensions of standard manufactured plates. Depending on the requirements for future construction, the plates are classified by weight. Their weight on average varies from 500 kg to 4 tons.

The use of concrete hollow slabs in the construction of the foundation has been carried out for quite some time. But installation of protection against freezing of floor slabs is not always thought out.

Wet and freezing walls are one of the most serious factors in the fragility of buildings.

The appearance of mold significantly affects the health of the inhabitants of the houses.

Wall Freezing Factors

Installation scheme for reinforced concrete slabs.

Incorrect filling of joints between plates. Poorly filled joints lead to a violation of the heat-shielding properties of the floors. The chance of cracking increases. Through them, the stove is gaining moisture.
Poor quality solution in the manufacture of products. The choice of cheap or diluted solutions leads to frequent penetration of moisture. Usually they have a very loose structure and can not withstand pressure.
Errors in the design of the heating system. Poorly heated rooms are much more prone to frostbite on the walls. After the accumulation of moisture, they begin to freeze both on the outside and on the inside.
Subcooling of metal reinforcing elements and anchors. When various cracks appear, moisture begins to get on the metal components of the hollow core slabs. As a result, corrosion may occur. The structure of such plates softens and is more prone to decay from low temperatures.
Exhaust pipes collect condensate. With weak traction, moisture accumulates inside the exhaust pipes, which leads to their icing up and lower work efficiency. At the same time, poor air circulation contributes to the accumulation of unnecessary moisture.
Small wall thickness. The wall thickness for their use in the climatic conditions of this region has not been taken into account.
Low heat engineering qualities of the materials used. When choosing materials, the weighing pan generally outweighs the strength side, and often, when installing the insulation, the low level of thermal insulation is simply not taken into account.
Insufficient through ventilation. In poorly ventilated rooms, the outer walls freeze much more, losing their heat-shielding properties. Poor internal waterproofing between the wall and the insulation leads to freezing of the outer surface, and then to the destruction of the masonry.
Foundation with poor waterproofing, especially in homes without basements.
Violation of the vapor barrier structure in the attic floors. Poorly executed thermal insulation of the ceiling overlaps transfers the performance of its functions to the cement screed. The concrete surface collects moisture, accumulating condensate, and moisturizes the insulation. The heat-protective material begins to lose its original properties, which are significantly reduced, as a result of which the floor slabs begin to freeze. The insulation also increases its weight due to the accumulated liquid.
Frequently flooded basements.
The blind areas are incorrect or missing.
The vertical waterproofing of the basement walls is incorrect. Low air circulation leads to mold and condensation.
Poor concrete compaction during production. The frost resistance and water resistance of the construction of hollow core slabs depend on the quality of concrete compaction. A poorly compacted composition becomes too porous, and the protection of the substrate is significantly reduced.
Installation of insufficient thickness of the finishing layer.

Having saved on a finishing layer, as a result it is possible to receive global destruction. When the air temperature fluctuates, the cladding gradually crumbles, reducing the protection of the wall from getting wet and frost. And as a result, the fortress of the entire building is disrupted, increasing the chances of emergency situations.

Prevention measures

To protect the floor slabs from freezing, you need to take the following measures:

Scheme slabs with waterproofing.

Carefully and tightly fill the distance between the plates.
High-quality installation of joint sealing should be waterproof (thanks to sealing mastics) and heat-protective (using warming bags). With air protection, the distance between the plates is filled with gaskets. Compression of the material of such gaskets should be at least 30-50%.
Monitor and verify the ventilation of the building as often as possible.
Poor air circulation in the premises contributes to the long drying of the insulating layers, the accumulation of excess moisture and the appearance of mold. It should not be allowed to freeze the heaving soil under the base of the foundation and the walls of the basement floor, do not allow the air temperature on the basement floor to drop below zero.
If there is no basement in the building, then it is necessary to install horizontal waterproofing between the ground and the surface of the basement.
Increase the insulation layer on the attic floors.
Keep the blind areas and drainage devices in good condition. From the effectiveness of their work depends on the reduction in the probability of freezing of hollow plates.
For the first 3 years of operation of the building, it is necessary to clean the distance of the drainage systems at least twice a year, and then once every three years.
On damp sections of the walls to carry out drying, not starting their condition.
Try to reduce humidity in rooms with poor ventilation. In any room, the humidity should not exceed 60%.

Fixes

Of course, it is always better to prevent a problem than to correct its consequences. But if the measures were not applied on time and the freezing still began, you need to take up the correction of errors as soon as possible. There are a number of different methods for fixing wall freezing troubles.

Depending on the reasons and location

Laying scheme of the floor slab.

The appearance of dampness and black spots in the area of \u200b\u200bthe last floors, as a rule, occurs if the installation of attic floor insulation is insufficiently or poorly performed. First of all, defects in the joints between the plates are eliminated, which reduces the appearance of moisture on the internal walls. Typically, insulation on attic floors is expanded clay. According to the standards, for its productive action, it must be at least 30 cm.

Be sure to check if there are any problems with attic ventilation. The lack of high-quality air exchange leads to the appearance of condensate and supercooling of floor slabs. Check for leaking roof.
Problems can also arise due to poor-quality sealing of joints in the walls and balcony slabs. Moisture can penetrate the joints between the wall and the slabs, which contributes to the appearance of damp spots. Dry the walls as soon as possible and close up moisture.

If the gap is not more than 8 cm, then you can use mounting foam. To use it, you must first clean the edges of the gap from concrete crumbs. Polyethylene and silicone surfaces require additional acetone treatment. Hardening of the foam occurs during the day. Then the excess foam must be cut off, you can use a clerical knife, and plaster the surface, thereby closing the cold bridge. If at the junction the gap is more than 8 cm, then you will have to use a thick cement mortar.

Check the effectiveness of balcony drains. If the sealing of the joints of the seams is broken, it is best to re-conduct it using newer and better materials. The strength of the building structure largely depends on the quality filling of the joints. Proper sealing should be carried out only after thorough surface preparation:

repair the outer surfaces of wall panels;
dry all wet and damp areas;
remove any damaged sealant before applying a new coat.

In no case should the mastic be applied to wet and untreated areas. It is best to repair joints in positive and dry weather.
If there is a violation of the balance of thermal protection of the walls, warming should be done due to their expansion.

Wall insulation options

For example, using a layer of masonry, you can veneer the outside of the wall. This can be done without special skills. To do this, you will need:

Wall insulation scheme.

bricks;
level, tape measure and order, if the wall needs to be erected high;
sand-cement mortar in a ratio of 4: 1 or adhesive mortar for masonry;
drill with mixer;
trowel and container for mortar;
access to electricity.

You can also insulate the walls with plaster insulation on a reinforcing mesh. To do this, with the help of dowels, they are mounted to the wall of the reinforcing mesh. The latter does not have to be metal. Plaster is applied between the wall and the net and on top. This can be a cement mortar, or a ready-made dry mixture for wet rooms. Moisture-resistant solutions are more expensive, but serve much longer than usual, because they have special additives in their composition.

Another of the highest quality methods is the installation of vapor barrier material and insulation on the inside of the concrete wall. Installation is carried out by installing a frame lined with tile insulation. To make such a frame and fill the distance with insulation between the wall and the finishing material, various fixatives and hardware can be used. It can be mounting brackets, plastic dowels - “fungi”, and glue, both in finished form and in the form of a dry mixture that requires preparation. After that, it is necessary to make the lining with plaster or any other finishing material.

Materials for the frame and insulation:

metal profiles or wooden battens;
self-tapping screws for metal or wood;
sealant and mounting foam;
vapor barrier membrane or aluminum foil on isoprene;
sheet insulation, mineral or fiberglass wool;
dry mix for plaster.

Tools for mounting the frame and insulation:

grinder with circles for cutting metal or special scissors;
drill with mixer nozzle;
screwdrivers or screwdrivers;
tape measure, level and pencil;
spatulas and graters for grinding;
capacity for solution.

Scheme of wall insulation of a frame house.

Between the frame and the wall, you need to leave a space of about 50 mm and fill it with expanded clay. This material perfectly absorbs residual moisture from the wall and stops the appearance of mold. Thus, the wall thickness increases by 150 mm. There are 80 mm foam blocks that successfully replace such frame structures. Installation is carried out on an ordinary cement-sand mortar (1: 4).

On particularly cold and damp walls, you can install a system called the “warm floor” or hold a warm baseboard around the perimeter. This solution is best suited for corner rooms. When choosing a method of heating the walls, the most suitable is an electric film option, or an infrared floor. It should not be installed on its own. To heat the seam under the baseboard, you can use a warm floor, where a cable is used as a heating element.

Installation of a stationary wall-mounted electric heater does not completely solve the problem of poor-quality insulation between the plates, but it can be installed independently.

For this you need:

drill or perforator;
anchors or dowels;
hammer;
power socket.

Whatever the reason for the freezing of hollow slabs, it is necessary to significantly reduce the humidity in the rooms, be sure to check the ventilation efficiency and to control the quality of the heating system. All work to repair the building and eliminate the causes of freezing should be carried out carefully and accurately. Having forgotten about some detail, you run the risk of encountering this problem again, and very soon.

In the design, and especially the implementation of the house, that is, construction, there are many nuances that generally affect the strength of the entire structure. The nodes of the floors were no exception, because they are fully and completely responsible for what kind of load the built-up structures will withstand.

Between the end of the beam of the wooden floor and the brick wall, you need to make a ventilated air gap.

So, we will consider what are the nodes of these systems and how they are mounted.

Some characteristics

The floors themselves, as a rule, are made of reinforced concrete slabs, which are produced in a special way in the factory.

By the type of material from which they are made, they can be divided into:

cellular concrete;
multihollow;
made of heavy concrete;
as well as prefabricated monolithic structures.

In each case of construction, the floor material is selected individually, in connection with the tasks set for the planned device, as well as the span, etc.

Similar products in their design can be divided into:

interfloor;
attic.

Scheme of closing the ceiling in the outer wall: 1 - wall; 2 - lining; 3 - close the end of the beam; 4 - floor slab.

In brick houses with more than two floors, prefabricated reinforced concrete floors are planned for use. The indisputable advantage of such reinforced concrete structures is their enormous strength and bearing capacity. When using reinforced concrete elements, you can safely make a basement.

Interfloor systems located at different heights can have small design features associated with the need for heat or sound insulation. For example, if the element is between an unheated attic and a living room, or between a basement and the first floor of a residential building.

The ceilings that separate the attic from the living quarters do not carry heavy loads during operation, which means that their design is lightweight.

During installation, reinforced concrete slabs must be laid tightly to each other, and the seams are filled with cement mortar.

Back to the table of contents

Features of these systems

In order for the floor to be held tight and able to withstand large and even excessive loads, it is necessary to correctly calculate the support unit of the floor slab on the brick wall. Depending on how it is implemented, it will be possible to give a certain load to a given floor of the building. By the way, pay attention: the unit of supporting the plate on the basis of jumpers, but not bearing walls, cannot be designed.

Scheme for embedding a wooden beam in a brick wall: 1 - wooden beam; 2 - the end of the beam, coated with resin and wrapped in roofing tape;
3 - waterproofing; 4 - brick wall; 5 - air gap between the wall and the beveled end of the beam.

In construction, as well as in any industry, there are special regulatory documents that regulate the installation of support units on various, including brick, walls.

In order to accurately determine the “depth of support”, it is necessary not only to take into account the immediate length of the selected plate, but also the material itself, on which this plate will rest. Therefore, all products are usually marked, that is, they indicate the maximum bearing capacity, as well as the level of minimum seismic resistance.

The authorities controlling the construction carefully monitor how these structures are laid and what is the supporting area of \u200b\u200bthe building's bearing wall.

This is of great importance, since an improperly mounted unit on a brick wall will be a violation that will lead to a ban on the construction or remodeling of a completely already constructed part of the building.

At the same time, the regulatory authorities are guided by modern, currently existing GOSTs, as well as a series of project documentation, which accurately indicates the amount of support. Corresponding to the existing GOST 956-91, which regulates the depth of support of the ceiling of any length on the supporting brick wall, this value is 10 mm, without taking into account the length of the device itself. Therefore, choosing a reinforced concrete slab for the organization, it is necessary to carefully study the markings applied to it, since it will give all the necessary information about this concrete product.

As a rule, plate marking consists of a group of letters and numbers. For example, a PC cooker 42.15-8T. The letters PC are the name of the product itself, in this case it is a floor slab with round voids; the numbers 42.15 indicate the dimensions of the reinforced concrete products in decimeters (the structural length is 4180 and the width is 1490); the number 8 indicates the maximum load on this plate - 800 kgf / sq.m; the letter T is the index for the heavy concrete used in the manufacture of the slab.

Overlap - a horizontal supporting structure, which is created between two vertical rooms, dividing them in height. In this case, the upper part of the ceiling usually acts as a floor for the upper room, and the lower part of the ceiling as the ceiling for the lower room.

Conditionally overlapping can be divided into:

Basement - a design that separates the basement and the first floor.
Interfloor - a structure located between two floors.
Attic - Separates the floor from the attic.
Attic - Separates the floor from the attic.

A horizontally located structure made of such building materials as wood, metal, concrete, reinforced concrete, and meeting certain engineering and construction requirements, can act as an overlap. Such requirements usually include the ability of the floor to withstand constant and temporary loads, i.e. possess increased strength, and also have sound, heat and waterproofing functions.

Types of floors and their technological features

Depending on the material used, the floors are divided into:

Wooden
Reinforced concrete

The above types of floors can be used depending on their purpose and design features of buildings.

Wooden floors

Beam Installation
Beam or wooden floors are often used in the construction of wooden or traditional private houses. In this case, the floor beams must be made of deciduous or coniferous wood.

The essence of wooden floors is simple. Wooden beams or glued wood are taken with the following dimensions:

150-300 mm high;
100-250 mm wide,

cut off the ends at an angle of 60-80 about, treated with an antiseptic and salted. After that, the ends of the beams are wrapped with roofing material and laid in niches with a depth of 150 mm, leaving a gap of 30-50 mm between the wall and the beam. The resulting gap is filled with mineral wool.

It should be remembered that the beams are installed on the supporting walls of the structure at a distance of 600 mm and up to 1.5 m from each other.

During installation, the beams are installed, starting from the extreme ones, having previously backed off at least 50 mm from the walls of the structure. Then the intermediate beams are evenly installed in the remaining space.

After distributing all the beams on the surface, it is necessary to check them for horizontal positioning. For leveling, tarred boards of the required thicknesses are usually used. It is necessary to remember when aligning that all beams in the horizontal plane should be on the same level.

To create additional rigidity for future floors, beams can be strengthened with special steel anchors, nails and steel plates. This is rarely done in brick houses, so we will not focus on this. But in wooden houses, the beams are fastened using special connecting brackets.

After preparing the base of the floor, you can proceed to cover it.

Installation of wooden floors
As a flooring for wooden floors, planed boards (25-45 mm thick), OSB panels or thick plywood usually act.

Installation is as follows. First, cranial bars with a cross section of 50x50 mm are attached to the beams, on which a rough floor is laid *. Layers of steam and thermal insulation are laid sequentially on top of the subfloor, and after the finishing floor *. This method is used when mounting a basement.

Installation of floors is a bit different. Cranial bars are attached, to which a vapor barrier layer is attached from below, and then the ceiling material for the lower floor. Further, from the inside of the cranial bars, between the beams, noise and heat-insulating material are laid. In the role of such material, mineral wool or expanded clay can act.

After that, on top of the beams, another layer of vapor barrier is laid, and on top of it are either planed boards, or OSB boards or thick plywood.

In rare cases, when the distance between the beams is large, then before laying boards or plates, logs are laid perpendicular to the beams, placing them closer to each other than the beams.

The installation of attic and attic floors is approximately the same as the installation of floor floors. In all three cases, the thickness of the beam should be at least 1/24 of the length of the beam itself.

The floor surface resulting from the installation of a wooden floor, depending on the flooring material, is coated with a topcoat *. If planed boards were used as the material, then the best option would be to coat them with paints and varnishes, rather than laying anything on top of them.

Advantages
The advantages of wood flooring are:

Significantly low weight of the wooden floor compared with reinforced concrete, which reduces the load on the walls and the foundation of the building structure.
Comparative simplicity and speed of installation.
Installation of wooden floors can be done on their own.
The low cost of such overlapping compared to monolithic or reinforced concrete.

disadvantages
There are downsides to wood flooring. These include:

Highly flammable material.
Regular processing of wood flooring with fire retardant impregnations and paints.
Fluctuation of wooden floors.
The tree needs air circulation.
Fragility.

Make wooden floors where necessary, and not where you want.
All wooden floor elements must be located at least 250 mm from the smoke ventilation ducts.
The entire flooring tree must be treated with fire and bioprotective agents.
Beams in places of contact with brick or concrete must be treated with protective compounds and wrapped with roofing material.
Do not make the distance between the beams more than 1000 mm.
Do not exceed the width between the beam supports of more than 6 m.

Reinforced concrete floors

Reinforced concrete floors - floors with reliability, durability, as well as good strength and fire resistance. Probably the most significant drawback of this type of flooring is its heavy weight.

Reinforced concrete floors can be conditionally divided into monolithic reinforced concrete and precast concrete slabs.

Monolithic reinforced concrete floors

Monolithic reinforced concrete floors are floors in which a reinforced concrete frame filled with reinforcement is used as a base.

Floor reinforcement
Reinforcement of interfloor ceilings begins with the fact that the reinforcement is welded to the ends of the reinforcement released from the reinforcement or wire rod with a diameter of at least 10 mm. Of course, it is better to immediately calculate and release the ends of the reinforcement with a diameter of 14 mm or more. At the same time, the ends of the reinforcement are produced so that subsequently the welded reinforcement on the entire surface forms a grid with cells of 200x200 mm.

Welded fittings are bonded or welded together at the joints. The net result should be a mesh.

The diameter of the reinforcement used is calculated based on the calculated loads. For these purposes, there are special tables according to which it is possible to calculate which reinforcement should be used for floors with certain parameters. However, from personal experience I’ll say it is better to play it safe and take reinforcement of a larger diameter than necessary. After all, all the existing tables and building codes are interpreted on the basis of material whose quality is equivalent to the quality of the Soviet Union. But everyone should understand that the quality of today's materials is far from ideal.

As my grandfather used to say: " It is better to play it safe and sleep soundly than to save money and sleep badly."

So, pouring the ceiling with a plate thickness of up to 150 mm, it is recommended to use reinforcement with a diameter of at least 14 mm, and with mesh sizes of no more than 200x200 mm. If the span is more than 4.5 m, then it is better to take reinforcement with a diameter of 20 mm or more, and leave the cells the same.

Another important point. For reinforcement of floors, it is desirable to use solid rods of reinforcement. If the spans are large, then the reinforcement is better to weld together.

After the reinforcement has been completed, you can proceed with the installation of the formwork.

Installation of shuttering formwork
Correct installation of formwork is the key to quality flooring.

For formwork, you can use boards or boards from boards, OSB-plates or metal sheets. It is better to wrap boards, boards or OSB-plates with polyethylene and attach it with a stapler, and metal sheets can be greased with oil or working off. This will further ensure easy separation of the formwork from concrete, and will prevent the material from deteriorating from moisture.

We attach the prepared formwork or formwork material using a wire to the reinforcing mesh. It is recommended that the formwork be installed on the entire surface of the poured floor.

At this stage, you should not forget that the attached formwork should be suspended 30-50 mm below the reinforcing cage. For these purposes, special retainers or fragments of bricks of the same size are installed between the formwork and reinforcement at a distance of 1-1.2 m. These clamps must be installed precisely at the intersections of the reinforcing bars.

After attaching the entire formwork and installing the clamps in this way, we check that the wire is tightened well, without sagging the formwork. For safety, the installed formwork can be additionally supported with struts from below. After these actions, you can proceed directly to concreting the slab.

Floor Concreting
To fill the floor with concrete mix, you must first calculate the thickness of the future floor. According to the documentation, the plate thickness is calculated based on the span, and is taken in the ratio of 1:30. For example, for a span of 6 m in size, the thickness of the ceiling will be 200 mm.

The thickness of the overlap can be determined by measuring the required 200 mm from the formwork upwards, after which, using the water level, make markings along the perimeter of the walls, and then select it with the help of beating and bluing.

Having decided on the thickness and making the necessary marking, you can start concreting. In this case, the entire process must be performed at a time. If it cannot be concreted at one time, then a metal mesh of wire with a diameter of 2-3 mm with a cell of 10x20 or 20x20 mm is laid at the rupture site. However, this is an extreme case.

During the laying of concrete, it must be very well vibrated so that the concrete fills all the voids and lies down as tightly as possible. The quality of the concrete floor will depend on this.

For vibration, you can use a stick in the form of a shank from a shovel, or, if possible, special vibrators. For leveling concrete it is better to use a long rule, or an even, polished beam.

Thus filling the entire surface of the floor, leave it for 28 days until it completely hardens and acquires the necessary concrete strength. You can, of course, remove the formwork before, it depends on the ambient temperature.

After this time, we remove the formwork, removing the supports first, and then, biting the wire, remove the formwork panels. Roughnesses formed on the bottom of the floor are eliminated with a pickaxe.

Advantages
The advantages of monolithic reinforced concrete floors are:

An opportunity to make overlapping of various shapes and sizes.
These overlappings are not deflected, or in rare cases they are minimal, invisible to the eyes.

disadvantages
There are disadvantages of monolithic reinforced concrete floors. These include:

The complexity of the process.
The necessary care for the floor during the acquisition of concrete the desired design strength.
A minimum of three people is required for pouring.
Requires special equipment, possibly mechanisms.
The high cost of work relative to wooden floors.
The need to buy ready-mixed concrete, or prepare it yourself.

For reinforcement, use reinforcement not of the diameter that you are advised, but one of which is two sizes thicker.
To bind reinforcement, it is better to use a special strapping wire.
As a formwork, it is better to use downed wooden boards from a thickness of 25 mm, or metal sheets, which are supported from below by boards for more reliable fastening.
Wooden parts of the formwork can be packaged in plastic film, and metal parts can be greased with oil or working out. This will not spoil the building material, and it will be easier to separate the formwork from the slab.
It is better to install the formwork immediately on the entire poured surface.
It is recommended to fill the floor at a time.
In hot weather, the ceiling must be watered (not poured) to prevent cracking, and in winter, such a ceiling needs to be warmed up, and it is better to add special antifreeze additives to the concrete solution.

Precast Concrete Slabs

Factory reinforced concrete slabs are perhaps the most common building material used for flooring. These slabs have different sizes and consist of a reinforcing cage, poured from above with concrete. In most cases, these plates are hollow.

The essence of installing floors from reinforced concrete slabs is reduced to several points:

Measure the surface of the future floor (length and width).
Find the optimal solution for the size of the plates, their location and quantity.
Find a company for the production, delivery and installation of plates.
Pay for the brought material and installation of the product.

That's actually all that is needed for the installation of floor slabs from factory reinforced concrete slabs.

Advantages
Pluses of precast concrete slabs:

High load-bearing capacity of the plates, which immediately after installation can be subjected to design loads.
These floors have a high bearing capacity.
No deflection.
High speed installation work.

disadvantages
Cons of precast concrete floors:

The need for a monolithic belt in places where the plates support the walls.
Inability to install on your own.
Availability of qualified installers.
The presence of special equipment for the delivery and installation of plates.
High cost of plates.
Cash costs for the plates themselves, their delivery and installation.

When making an overlap of factory reinforced concrete slabs, consult with specialists.
Lay floor slabs only on a previously created arm belt.
Do not lay reinforced concrete floor slabs on walls less than 200 mm thick.
Having decided to use prefabricated reinforced concrete slabs for flooring, find and contact the company with sensible specialists.

To summarize

Each type of overlap is good for certain designs. The review revealed that the cheapest and least time-consuming installation are wooden floors. However, this type of flooring can not be used in all types of structures, but only in wooden buildings and traditional private houses. Wooden flooring can be used for any of the four types of floors - basement, interfloor, attic and attic.

Monolithic reinforced concrete flooring can be used in the construction of buildings of almost any design, except for wooden structures. Such ceilings are more expensive than wood, require certain material and physical costs. However, they are more resilient and have more advantages compared to hardwood floors. Depending on the type of bulk aggregates in the concrete mixture, this floor can be used for all types of floors.

Prefabricated reinforced concrete slabs are the simplest but most expensive type of flooring, which also has limitations on installation on certain types of structures (wooden, with a wall thickness of less than 200 mm). They are installed mainly as an overlap between the 0th and 1st floor, as well as between the 1st and 2nd floors.

* Draft floor - horizontally flat plane, which serves as the basis for the final coating, and made of boards, chipboard, OSB or thick plywood.
* Finished floor - finishing coating of the floor, such as tiles, parquet, laminate, linoleum, etc.

In this article, we will talk about typical mistakes made when brick walls.

It is no secret that the quality of other country houses, to put it mildly, leaves much to be desired. Out of negligence or out of ignorance, builders make unacceptable mistakes, which sometimes lead to emergency consequences. Moreover, the denial of norms and rules becomes hardly unsystematic.

In such conditions, customers have a hard time. They get a “comprehensive” answer to any question in approximately the following spirit: “We always did that, and no one complained.” It is difficult for a person who is far from construction in the nature of his business to defend his point of view, find convincing arguments and convict hack workers of poor-quality work. As a result, the house was built, but living in it is uncomfortable or completely unsafe. Money wasted, materials were wasted, finally time wasted.

Of course, you can give advice from the very beginning to keep an eye on the builders, constantly monitor the progress of work, and invite independent experts to resolve disputes. But not all customers have the opportunity to regularly visit their suburban possession. In addition, only a specialist can detect many errors. The best option is to organize independent technical supervision of the construction process. These types of services are offered by specialized companies that have the appropriate license.

In recent years poor quality brickwork acquired the character of a mass phenomenon. The use of substandard solution, non-compliance with technological standards and other gross violations lead to disastrous consequences. The walls literally crack at the seams, the cladding exfoliates, and there is a threat to the health and life of the inhabitants of the house. In such cases, there is only one solution: partial (in combination with repair and reinforcement) or complete demolition of the defective structure. Meanwhile, even safe, but curved masonry can create many problems. Curved surfaces are very difficult to finish - apply plaster, stone, etc.

Errors in the design and construction often lead to wetting and freezing of the outer walls. As a result - high heat loss, dampness, mold and slow, but sure destruction of the brick. About any comfortable and serene living in such a house is out of the question. And the correction of such shortcomings, so to speak, requires huge financial, labor and time costs. I'm not talking about the moral damage caused to the owners.

	Masonry on the principle of "tyap-blunder." The brickwork is made in violation of technological standards. The bricks are laid at random. The seams are uneven, in some places their thickness reaches 30 mm with a norm of not more than 15 mm. At the same time, the vertical seams were completely left without a solution. What energy saving can we talk about if slits gap in the wall!
	Diagonally. And here the builders without further ado laid out the wall in an inclined line. The quality of work does not stand up to criticism. But the unfortunate masons did not have to let the ledges down the wall under the inclined rafters of the pitched roof. But at the same time an emergency situation was created: the inclined section can fall out at any moment
	Wall "shrapnel". This wall is a victim of unscrupulous manufacturers. This is what happens with the brick, which includes excess lime. In wet weather, there was a "shooting" of lime. The process is stretched in time and it is not known when it will end. Stop "shooting" due to the finish. But do not forget that plastering is a wet process.
	Wall in hoarfrost. Freezing the walls of this respectable mansion occurred for two reasons: due to insufficient thickness and the wrong combination of hollow and facing bricks. If the problem is not resolved soon, then the house will face big troubles: the destruction of the cladding, dampness, mold, discomfort, heat loss
	Insidious condensate. This is what happens as a result of the improper construction of a three-layer wall. Builders forgot to leave a ventilation gap between the cladding and insulation. And besides, they saved on thermal insulation. Condensation has accumulated on the inside of the front brick, which has leaked out. In winter, the walls will freeze, which will lead to the destruction of bricks
	Curved tracks. Uneven seams on the brick cladding spoil the entire look of the facade. Of course, this wall will not fall apart. However, it is easy to understand the disappointment of the owners, who spent considerable money on expensive home decoration and received very mediocre results. In Soviet times, experienced builders called such seams between bricks “advance pay”
	Natural "ventilation". And here the builders took and filled the gap between the window and the ceiling with a hollow brick. Everything would be fine, but put a brick on a spoon - saved on material (as many as two bricks saved). And along the way, they provided the room with constant airing. Even if the holes are then repaired with a solution, this section of the wall will freeze (only 65 mm thick)
	"Infernal portal." Above this doorway it’s just right to write: “Give up hope everyone entering here.” Trying to "adjust" the design, the builders actually deprived the reinforced concrete lintel of the fulcrum. Those pathetic 5 cm walls (with a norm of 15-25 cm), on which the element is now supported on one side, will soon collapse, unable to withstand the pressure of reinforced concrete
	Well, who is building this ?! Water does not have to look for a hole in this basement wall. Brickwork is teeming with holes. Moreover, the builders did not just violate the current norm (it is forbidden to use hollow bricks when erecting a socle). but they went against common sense. They laid bricks as if deliberately wanted to expose the voids
	Elusive beauty. Another example of the misuse of hollow bricks. When decorating platbands, products not intended for facing facades were used. In addition, voids "peep" out into the street. Foam itself needs protection from rain, snow and the sun. And builders did not bother to fill the bricks with mortar
	All wrong. This steel jumper was not mounted correctly from the very beginning. The main mistake is insufficient bearing width. The support nodes should include concrete pillows that would ensure even distribution of the load and prevent local destruction of the brick. In addition, steel lintels need insulation (with the same brick)
	Zigzag of failure. Such serious cracks in the brick lining arise for various reasons. Most likely, the deformations are caused by the movements of the foundation, constructed without taking into account the hydrogeology of the site. It is also possible that during the construction of two-layer walls, the correct relationship between the foam concrete foundation and the brick cladding was not provided.