Hatchet made of metal. How to make an ax: technological process from hatchet to sharpening

Among carpentry and garden tools, an ax is always one of the most popular. A more universal tool, most likely, can not be found. For several hundred years, from the moment the ax was transformed into a modern ax, a whole tradition has developed, how to make an ax a special sharpening, how to prepare and correct an ax for a certain type of work.

How to make an ax an effective and versatile tool

There are several options for modern performance:

Note! On a special account is a cleaver with a very strong massive butt and a short blade. It is difficult to make a full-fledged blow with such a cutter, so it can be attributed to auxiliary types of tools.

How to make a universal ax for yourself

The main problem that needs to be solved when designing a tool for your tasks and needs is to make the right choice of blade when buying.

How to choose the right metal

It is believed that only good spring steel with deep hardening of the blade can make such a sound. In fact, the viscosity and elasticity of steel is important for the cutting edge, not the ability to sharpen the blade to a razor condition. Just the latter speaks of the quenching and supersaturation of the metal with carbon. Two or three exponential blows can be made such an instance to demonstrate sharpness; on the fourth impact, the sharpened cutting edge will crack.

Much more successful would be an ax made of ductile manganese steel 50XGA. It is more difficult to make such a tool, but it will serve much longer, and it will be much more convenient to work with it.

Universal ax option

If you are not professionally engaged in the construction of log cabins, where most of the timber needs to be made with a carpentry ax, buy yourself a good quality product made in Belarus. Some of the enterprises still produce conversion models of axes with excellent characteristics. It remains only to decide how to make a handle for an ax. The best option would be a wooden pen; choose an elm or an old acacia. From scraps you can make a wooden case for an ax.

The forged blade is considered the best, but finding a decent Soviet copy is not so simple. Most old blades have many hidden cracks, so if you come across a suitable specimen, do not be shy, take a few strong blows to the nearest hemp. Traces of cracks will necessarily go to the cutting edge.

The easiest way is to make a choice, guided by the presence of the stigma on the cheek. The mark must be readable. Good tools were made on the forge equipment of the old post-war factories.

How to make an ax handle comfortable

The position of the handle depends entirely on the individual structure of the hands, and above all the palms. There are three ways to do the right grip on the handle:

1. To work with one hand in a carpentry manner, the grip must be done 2/3 from the end of the ax. With such a grip, the instrument in the hand should be fully balanced and balanced. To work as a carpenter’s test, the length of the ax must be selected based on the length of the hands;
2. The width of the handle at the grip with the palm should be such that the thumb and the other four fingers are almost touching in the grip;
3. The angle of inclination of the blade to the ax must be done at 70-75 °, if you have to work in a vertical cabin, and 90 °, if you need to pinch or chop horizontal surfaces.

Correctly make a cover for an ax

The simplest option is a case made of leather or wooden lining with a clip on the butt. Thus, the cutting edge is closed, which allows you to safely carry the tool.

More stylish can be made a case for an ax in the style of a holster to simulate military weapons. Most often, such options are made of leather or its imitation with rivets and ornaments. This option even involves wearing a tool on a belt. The more complex the configuration of the blade, the more efforts must be made to design an ax cover.

The ax is one of the oldest tools used by man in his work. He has come a long way, accompanying the evolution of man from stone great-grandfather to a modern steel product of the highest quality. The scope of this tool has the widest range both in any kind of industrial production, and in home use. The need for its use will not decrease in the near future.

Tool classification

Depending on the application, they can have a different design shape and size.

The specialization of this tool can be classified as follows:

1. Ax lumberjacks.
2. Large and small carpentry ax.
3. Firewood cleaver.
4. Tourist or hunting camping hatchet.
5. Hatchet for the kitchen.
6. All kinds of souvenir axes imitating ancient military weapons.
7. Sports tomahawk for throwing targets.
8. Firefighters ax.
9. Butcher's ax.

Some design differences

Specialization may give rise to some design differences of axes, but basically any of them consists of two parts: a working chopping metal part and a handle attached to it, called an ax. The ax is mainly made of wood.

Some models of tourist and kitchen samples can be made entirely of metal with wooden or plastic overlays to give the flat metal handle the necessary shape.

The lumberjack tool has a rounded blade and an elongated ax. It is most often used for harvesting brushwood from branches. For the preparation of firewood from logs, a special type of ax cleaver is used. Its metal part is more massive than that of conventional axes, and has a more obtuse angle of the pointed chopping part.

A longer ax has a gun and firefighters. Moreover, such axes can significantly differ and the back side of the metal part, called the butt. For ordinary tools, it is simply flat, and for firefighters, this part can be made in the form of a hook or a sharp narrow wedge.

The butt of a kitchen hatchet is usually made in the form of a hammer for chopping meat, and the hatchet with a round cross section is made on a lathe.

Carpentry Axes

This kind of ax is probably the most used in the world. Even with modern technology, not a single construction can do without such an ancient tool. Its versatility is unique.

Carpentry axes are large, they are used for cutting logs, for the device of any kind of nicks in the construction of wooden houses and other structures.

Small hatchets that are used for smaller jobs.

The chopping blade of carpentry axes is usually flat and very sharp.

The hatchet is of various types. Its form as a whole depends on the personal preferences of the owner, aimed mainly at the convenience of working with such a tool. Often a good ax is the face of a carpenter, as a specialist. A good master values \u200b\u200bthis instrument more than any other. Therefore, he never uses a purchased ax, but makes it personally for himself. However, in skillful hands it is very rare to change it.

Manufacturing methods

For an ordinary person, you have to use an ax most often when working at a summer cottage. Here, along with the work inherent in such a tool, not very skilled workers are used for various jobs. Therefore, axes, as a rule, do not withstand prolonged use, and they have to be changed quite often.

The most suitable material for the handle is birch. It is durable, relatively lightweight and smooth to work with. For careful owners it will be useful to place birch bars for drying. Drying the birch should be a long time, at least 3-5 years, and always outside the influence of sunlight. To make a good hatchet, you need exactly a well-dried birch. Otherwise, it will dry out in the ax itself, the handle will begin to dangle, which can lead to significant inconvenience in work and injuries.

There are several different ways to make an ax correctly. But all of them can be divided depending on the technological equipment:

1. With the help of electric woodworking mechanisms (circular saw, planer, various types of grinding).
2. Manually from finished boards with a planer, rasp and so on.
3. Manually from a birch log.
4. With a minimum of tools.

Technological production of hatchets

First of all, the necessary workpiece is cut out on woodworking machines. All its dimensions (width, thickness and length) are made with a small margin for further adjustment.

Thickness and width are determined by the size of the ax inlet, which is called the eye and is located below. It must be remembered that the upper outlet is much wider than the bottom, and you can not confuse them when taking measurements.

For the convenience of further processing, it is advisable to plan the workpiece on a planing machine to make its cross section close to a triangular shape with an acute angle below the future ax. Using a cardboard template, a hatchet drawing of the selected shape is applied to the blank. The template can be made by making a drawing on the size of the old broken tool, or you can find a suitable hatchet shape in the sources of specialized literature or on the Internet.

Cutting rounded places is most convenient with an electric jigsaw. Next, smooth all corners with a wide chisel and do preliminary grinding of the product. It is not worth working it all the way to the working state, because when directly connected to the metal part of the instrument, when significant efforts and impacts are applied, the tree may split, and all the work on final finishing will be done in vain.

Mechanical grinding should be done on a flat. Using a conventional whetstone is not effective. It is better to make a special disc with the same hole in the center as the corresponding whetstone.

The material for the circle is best used in hard electrical insulating plastic, with a thickness of at least 5 mm. Sandpaper is glued onto it with PVA glue. You should be aware that only waterproof paper should be used. Simple will quickly burst. In addition, a circle glued with waterproof sandpaper can be washed with wood dust from hot water. Therefore, if such a circle is made of plywood, then washing it will be problematic. Plywood can deform under the influence of water.

On such a wheel, it will be convenient to grind even and convex parts of the ax, especially the part that is inserted inside the ax. This must be done very evenly so as not to weaken the thickness of the wooden part.

It is good to have vertical grinding to grind internal curves. Equipment for it can also be made independently. To do this, it is necessary to carve a wooden cylinder on the lathe with a through hole, corresponding to the shaft of the engine used, and glue it on the outside with waterproof sandpaper.

The finished cylinder should be fitted tightly onto the shaft of a vertically mounted engine. For grinding precisely axes, the cylinder diameter is not so important, but the wall thickness from the inner hole to the outer surface should be quite massive, at least 10-15 mm.

Ax nozzle

The top edge of the ax, which should be inserted inside the ax, is made slightly conical so that it fits tight enough. Before that, perpendicular axial lines are drawn at the end so that in the course of work, focusing on their location, the workpiece is not mowed in any direction.

Before the final planting of the ax, a cut is made under the wedge. Its depth should not exceed the width of the ax itself.

How to plant an ax on an ax is shown in the figure:

It is permissible to make a wooden wedge from another, softer wood species, which is more subject to compression than a birch. So that the wedge does not jump out of the ax even at the slightest drying, it is advisable to lubricate it with waterproof glue. This is necessary in case the ax gets into the water.

After the wooden one can be additionally wedged with a metal wedge. Such wedges are specially forged in the forge, making notches along its edges for better adhesion to the tree.

It happens that the top hole of the ax is larger than the bottom not only in thickness but also in width. On the side of the inserted ax there are small gaps, which also have to drive additional wooden wedges.

If the connection of the ax with the ax was successful, proceed to the final finishing of the tree with the help of finer-grained sandpaper. This process is done manually.

Handmade hatchet

With the apparent complexity of this process, it is quite possible for a more or less master craftsman to make an ax without using electrified equipment. Especially if you have the right size boards. If there are no boards, then the blank on the ax can be chopped out of birch logs. A log for these purposes should be selected as far as possible without knots and with a straight-layered structure.

To grind an ax with a sandpaper, it must be secured in a vice. From sandpaper, cut narrow rather long strips. It will be very convenient for them to perform the grinding process, wrapping strips around the ax and moving the ends of the tape back and forth. In this position, the working surface of the emery paper fits snugly to the work plane without much effort on the part of the person.

Work with purchased axes

If a person has no desire to tinker with making an ax on his own, ready-made samples are always on sale. Of course, serious manufacturers of such parts know well how to make a hatchet correctly. But still, when buying it, you should adhere to some rules so as not to make mistakes. First of all, you should very carefully measure the inlet of the existing ax. Differences in size between different axes are sometimes very significant and individual, especially if this tool is extracted from grandfather's stocks. The main condition is that the dimensions of the acquired ax not be less than the required values.

You should also pay attention to the quality of the wood of the finished hatchet. The density of the structure, the presence of cracks and the possibility of cleavage with its nozzle.

Work with a purchased hatchet will be limited to fitting its end part, which directly enters the eye.

Sharpening and operation

The most thorough sharpening requires carpentry axes. In the order of things, if the sharpness of these tools allows you to sharpen a pencil or even make a toothpick.

Before sharpening the cutting edge of the ax, it is necessary to check the hardness of the metal and, if it turns out to be too soft, it will be necessary to harden the ax additionally by exposure to high temperatures. It is best to do this in a forge, trusting a professional specialist.

Tool blade sharpening is done after connecting it to a wooden handle.

Like an ax, the figure below explains.

Useful instruction

The correct operation of the ax can be described in the implementation of some basic rules:

1. Try not to chop metal products.
2. Carefully check the treated wood for the presence of foreign solid objects in its body.
3. Do not use the tool in an inappropriate quality for it: as a lever, chopper or shovel.
4. Do not drop the tool on a hard surface, especially from a great height.
5. Do not store it for a long time in an open place under the influence of sunlight or in a too wet place.

With a careful attitude, the ax and its wooden handle will serve for a long time and please its owner.

Axes are indispensable tools for working in cottages, gardens, when going on a picnic, etc. How to make an ax convenient to use? There are many technical solutions to this question. The choice of a specific solution depends on the tasks that the tool should solve. Recently, there has been a demand for a battle ax from historical reenactors. Different tasks for this tool require a different approach for their manufacture. Below, emphasis will not be placed on making axes from scratch, but on remaking common models and creating a convenient hatchet for your hand.

An ax is one of the most important tools in a suburban area. It can be made completely from scratch, or you can upgrade an old tool.

Axes: types and differences

Ax - one of the most ancient tools of man, having many varieties. Many archaeological finds indicate that the ax was an integral tool and human weapon.

They performed a huge amount of work: cutting trees, scraping dense animal skins, trimmed the tree and, of course, killed their own kind. With the development of mankind, axes began to evolve. Their development went along the lines of their activity, they began to have a narrow "specificity." Today there are a huge number of varieties of poleaxes, however, we will dwell on the most common types:

1. Carpentry. Today it is this species that is most widespread. This is due to the fact that with such a tool you can perform up to 90% of all possible work. The mass of such products can range from 800 grams to 2 kg. The most common axes weighing about 1.5 kg. It’s convenient for them to chop small trees, cut logs, cut carcasses of animals ... In addition to everything else, this type of tool is most often produced by various enterprises, which significantly reduces its cost.
2. Taiga ax. This is a rather heavy poleax (about 1.0-1.2 kg), a type of cleaver. The difference is the long (about 0.5 meters) handle. The main purpose is felling and cutting of wood. It is very popular among hunters, fishermen, tourists, geologists, etc. From a carpentry ax, you can easily make a taiga.
3. Cleaver. The sectional shape of such an instrument is a triangular wedge. It is designed for cutting wood. Pretty heavy (about 2 kg).
4. Combat poleaxes are relatively light (about 0.5-0.8 kg) poleaxes that are mounted on a long pole (handles) of 0.5 m or more. Thanks to historical clubs, demand has arisen for them. There are several varieties of such products: two-handed / one-handed, two-sided. Today they are made to order, and most often remake carpentry axes under the old battle.
5. Various tourist small hatchets. These are very dubious devices with short and not always convenient handles. It is problematic to dump and cut a tree thicker than 30 cm in diameter, and in addition, most companies (including brand ones, such as Fiskars) make plastic axes, which in case of breakage are almost impossible to replace. Some manufacturers (mainly Chinese) make the handle disproportionate to the hand of the average person, which leads to tired hands after 5-7 minutes of work. In conclusion, everything, the small mass of the ax itself (up to 0.8 kg) requires the application of significant physical effort during operation. Such products can often be found in stores, they are often advertised, but it is not recommended to purchase them because of the low rate of usability.
6. Stone axes. These are homemade products made of stone using the technology of the "ancient". They are practiced among bushcrafters or just lovers of antiquity. It is quite simple to make them from improvised materials with your own hands, if silicon is available.

In addition to the purpose, all types have their own design differences:

1. The main structural difference of the carpentry ax is that the toe has the same shape and size as the heel. If we conditionally draw a line from the middle of the width of the butt to the middle (in height) of the blade, then both parts will be symmetrical. The toe and heel are rounded at a certain angle (often the angles do not coincide for different models and manufacturers). This design is convenient for "thin" work with logs. For convenience, the handle (hatchet) is made relatively short.
2. The toe and blade of the cleaver usually form a right angle (this is also true for taiga). This solution allows you to split the tree without getting stuck in it. For felling and cutting of large logs, cleavers are quite wide. This increases their mass and makes them non-transportable in long non-transport crossings.
3. The main difference between a taiga ax and a cleaver is mass. To reduce it, “taiga” is made narrower in cross section, and in addition, they try to “cut off” all unnecessary metal. So do a cut from the heel to the beginning of the butt in an arc.
4. Combat poleaxes have a low and narrow (in section) blade. Often there is a spike on the back. Butts are also made narrow.

Choose and remake an ax

Before purchasing a tool, you should clearly determine the tasks that the ax will solve.

Even in the absence of the right kind in stores, you can always make it yourself by buying and remaking a carpentry ax.

It’s worth starting with choosing a carpentry ax. The first thing to determine is the steel from which it is made. Today, Damascus steel is considered the “coolest" steel; products from it are made by both private single blacksmiths and some firms.

Domestic manufacturers most often use 65G steel for the manufacture of their products. This is a fairly hard (about 55 points on the Rockwell scale) spring steel, which copes well with woodworking. As already mentioned above, almost 90% of all axes are made for carpentry.

Choosing a poleax for a carpenter is not difficult. The first thing to do is determine the mass. For accurate and "delicate" finishing work, you need to take an ax of about 0.5 kg, for coarser ones - about 1.5 kg.

It is important to remember that the handle of a purchased ax is factory-made and in 99% of cases it will be inconvenient. How to make a hatchet will be described below.

If a taiga ax is required, but it is not on sale, then it is quite simple to remake the carpentry into the desired design. To do this, carefully select the pole ax by weight. Since during the alteration excess metal will be cut off, then, accordingly, the weight of the ax will decrease. The acceptable mass of taiga is 1-1.2 kg (without hatchet). Therefore, to achieve such indicators, one should take carpentry about 1.3-1.5 kg. To remake a carpentry tool, you need to cut the sock so that it forms an almost right angle with the blade. Also, for relief, all the metal under the heel is cut off.

To do this, it is necessary to apply a marking - an arc from the lower end of the butt to the heel. If the cut is done in a straight butt-heel, this will worsen the strength of the ax.

You can cut metal with a grinder, while it is important to constantly water the cut points with water for cooling.

Otherwise, there is a very high probability of overheating the blade, which will significantly reduce hardness and strength.

Likewise, battle axes are made from carpentry axes.

When the ax is ready, you should make an ax and connect them.

How to make a hatchet

The most convenient are curved axes, with an oval sectional shape. This form allows you not to strain your hand at work, which allows your hand to not get tired. For different types of axes axes differ only in bending size and length.

For taiga - the length should be from 0.5 to 1 m, the bend should be such that the lower end of the ax is on a straight line with the middle of the blade and the Plotnitsky toe have a short (up to 0.5 m) handle, which has a small bend angle. The battle axes are mounted on a long and almost flat ax. The cross section is selected based on the ax hole of the ax. Despite the differences in the sizes and shapes of the handles, the technology for their manufacture is almost the same.

To make a hatchet, you should pick up a blank of the right size. It can be a board or a log. Next, markup is applied and all the excess is cut off, after which it is carefully sanded with sandpaper and varnished. From the side of the ax mount in the hatchet made cuts along the section for driving in wedges-spacers. Then the ax is mounted on the ax and bursting with wedges.

The most popular and versatile tool for wood processing is an ax.

In addition to the main task, to chop wood (across the fibers) and chop wood (along the fibers), with an ax, you can perform almost any carpentry and carpentry. For this, the following varieties of axes have been developed and produced:

1. Lumberjack. The length of the handle implies holding the tool with both hands, so the ax belongs to the class of two-handed. The main purpose is the felling of vertical tree trunks, although such an ax can successfully chop wood;
2. Woodcutter. A common tool on the farm that is used to chop wood for the winter. You can chop not too thick tree trunks. The handle is rather two-handed than one and a half;
3. A carpenter. It is convenient to hold the tool with both one and two hands. The main purpose is roughing of wooden blanks, mainly logs. You can chop wood, cut down a powerful shrub;
4. Srednerus. A long two-handed handle and a powerful blade, with such an instrument they chop large logs, butcher carcasses of animals. In expeditions, such an ax was used as a machete - they can cut through glades. Its second name is taiga;
5. Ermak. Universal ax of medium size. A single handle does not create a lever, so you have to apply great effort when working. Relatively light weight allows you to take it with you on hiking trips, for example - for chopping wood;
6. Fortress. A compact tool with a light hatchet is a favorite tourist assistant. Cut a tree trunk to make a hut, chop dead wood for a fire, cut a small hunting trophy - an ax is indispensable as a tool for survival in the forest.

Of course, there are many other classifications, but for the lay person who does not know, the name of the ax handle - the list gives an idea of \u200b\u200bthe variety of the tool.



Special axes

The tool is intended for the manufacture of wood products, as well as the construction of premises from logs (log cabins).
  In addition to skills on how to sharpen an ax, it is necessary to understand the names of its constituent parts. See illustration:

IMPORTANT! The possibilities of this seemingly primitive device should not be underestimated. In the old days, with the help of an ax, two, and even three-story buildings were erected without a single nail.

Large carpentry.
   Designed to give a piece of wood a blank shape. Roughing, scraping, lateral separation of the trunk.


Joiner.
   With such an ax it is already possible to give the desired shape to a wooden blank. A semicircular blade allows you to control the notches and make figured processing. Most of the creations of wooden architecture are created with this tool.



Figured sharp.
   The ax has a straight toe and pointed heel. Thanks to this form, you can literally engage in woodcarving. Curly platbands on village houses of the last century are the work of this tool.



Cleaver.
   Of course, this heavy ax can and should chop thick logs. And yet, its main purpose is to prepare blanks for further fine processing.



Ax for choosing concave surfaces.
   An experienced carpenter can make an ideal cut on a log for laying a log house with a carpentry ax. And yet, for a more accurate fit, it is better to use a special hatchet.



Sculptural ax.
   The blade is curved under the left and right hand. The name speaks for itself - such a tool cuts sculptures and wooden jewelry of large size. Questions arise about how to sharpen a complex shape blade - but the craftsmen have their own secrets.



No matter how "confused" the design of the blade (ax) is, for the proper operation of the tool it is necessary to know the common truths of the carpenter and carpenter:

How to plant an ax?



The illustration depicts a classic way to properly plant on an ax.

Action A - the ax (1) is trying on the butt (2). The gaps between wood and metal should be minimal and uniform. The shape of the landing should narrow slightly to the top. At the tip, a longitudinal cut is made to install the wedge.

Action B - planting an ax. The blade should sit snugly on the butt. If the wooden part protrudes a little - there is nothing to worry about, after wedging out the excess, you can saw off.

Action B - wedging. The most crucial part of the job. The wedge (3) should have the sharpest possible angle, and it should be driven as deep as possible. The wedge is made of metal, or more durable than the wood butt. Wedge can be moistened with glue.

According to Russian tradition - after planting the ax was immersed in water. The wedge swelled, and the connection closed tightly. It is not necessary to do this, since backlash can occur after drying.
  There is an alternative way using cross wedges and gauze with glue.

The size of the seat should provide a uniform gap of not more than 1 mm. The landing place at the butt of the butt is cut in the form of a lattice, for 5 wedges.

IMPORTANT! The depth of cut should not exceed the width of the ax, but not less than 2/3 of its size.

In this case, it is necessary to take into account the protruding 1-2 cm part of the butt, which will then be sawn off.

Saws are made with a hacksaw for metal. The canvas is selected with a large tooth, for work on soft metals.

Wedges are made of hardwood - oak, hornbeam, beech. They can be chopped from old furniture that was made specifically from these varieties. Do not listen to the advice of homegrown professionals claiming that the wedges and butt should be from the same type of tree. It's a delusion.

The handle for an ax in Russia is usually made of ash, birch or maple. And the wedges were always oak or forged iron.

Try on wedges. At this point, it is important to fit the size. Expansion is allowed only by wedging, the other sides of the wedges should be parallel. Otherwise, when landing, they may crack, reducing the effect of the spacer.

At this stage, the wedges are only slightly driven into cuts, not more than 1/3 of the length.

But the butt is dressed with gauze soaked in glue. A good option is epoxy.

IMPORTANT! Only not polyester!

It will provide elasticity to the adhesive, and is not prone to cracking.

Depending on the width of the gap - one or two layers of gauze are laid.

The hatchet fits snugly on the butt.

Excess gauze is cut off at the very edge of the metal blade.

Before driving wedges, epoxy should be poured into the cuts. It will fill the cracks that inevitably form when planted. Then we hammer the wedges strictly in accordance with the fitting.

IMPORTANT! You must first install all 5 wedges, then plant them at the same time.

After drying the resin for 24 hours, saw off the protruding part.

If you have any questions, watch the video clip, which details how to plant an ax on an ax correctly and what the ax is made of.

How to sharpen an ax?

Many do not know how to sharpen an ax on their own, and turn to workshops, paying for the service. The general geometry is shown in the illustration:

There is such a rule - the formation of a burr. If you master the technique, you will have no problems how to sharpen an ax at home. The scheme of work in the picture:



In this video clip, all the details about sharpening an ax to the sharpness of the blade.

How to harden the ax yourself?

In order not to have to sharpen the ax too often, the steel must be strong and solid. If you got a tool from soft material - it can be hardened at home. The edge of the blade is heated by a gas burner (or on charcoal) to a crimson color, and is immersed first in the oil, then in cold water. The procedure is repeated 2-3 times.

After reading our material, you will learn not only how to use the popular tool correctly, but also understand how to make an ax with your own hands. The case of the master is afraid!

The ax is one of the most famous and affordable tools in the arsenal of most summer residents and professional craftsmen. If you use it correctly, you can simplify many work processes, resulting in an excellent result. You can not only buy an ax ready in a specialized store, but also make it at home. It will not take much time, effort and money. Today we will understand in detail how to do the hatchet with our own hands.

How to pick up and prepare wood?

Many work is impossible without a well-sharpened and strong ax. This tool is often needed in both domestic and larger-scale works. In retail outlets you can find many different models of such tools, because there are quite a lot of ax types themselves. It is possible to choose the perfect option in accordance with any requirements.

But there are also cases when the consumer could not find a suitable tool for himself. Many people in such situations find a simple way for themselves - they make an ax on their own. In order for the tool to turn out to be of high quality, reliable and durable, it must consist of good elements.So, to create a hatchet it is very important to choose the right material.

Not every wood species is suitable for creating this ax detail.It is believed that a true master will go around the whole forest before he finds the same tree from which he can make an ax. In most cases, the specified element of the ax is built from the basal section of birch, and even better, if you put in the growths that are present on its trunk. These parts are distinguished by a very dense and twisted structure.

Birch is not the only tree that can make a good hatchet.  Instead, it is permissible to refer to such trees as oak, maple, acacia, ash and other deciduous trees related to hardwoods. According to experienced craftsmen, the most reliable, comfortable and durable high-quality handles are obtained from beech, oak, larch, walnut and elm. But it’s not enough to find the perfect material for making an ax. It is also necessary to properly prepare it for the upcoming work.

Billets must be dried well.This is done only in vivo, and it often takes a lot of time - on average 3-4 years, or better even longer (5 years will be enough). The wood should be dried exclusively in a dark and dry place, where there is good ventilation. Precipitation, dampness and water must not enter the space where natural material will be prepared. Otherwise, there will simply be no sense from such drying, and you won’t be able to make a good hatchet.

How to make a template?

If you have already prepared and dried to the right degree material, then you should proceed to the next step in creating an ax handle. Next, you will need to competently make a convenient template that will be an excellent assistant in further work.

It is important to take into account the fact that there are quite strict rules governing the shape of an ax based on the main type of device. So, light tools, the weight of which usually ranges from 0.8 to 1 kg, are usually made with a handle having a length of 0.4-0.6 m. As for the more “serious” heavy axes, there is a length of 0.55-0.65 m. We must also take into account the fact that all existing types of axes are divided according to their main functionality.

So, the following types of these tools are distinguished:

• carpentry;
• lumberjack;
• delimbus;
• cleaver;
• butcher.

Before embarking on an independent design of such a tool, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the detailed drawings of different models of handles.

In the manufacture of the template should take into account a number of important features.

• In order to prevent the ax from slipping out and jumping out of the hands at the moment of swing, its “tail” needs to be made a little wider than the place of capture.
• When making an ax for a cleaver, a part 0.75-0.95 m long should be made. Carpentry tools are made short. Their handle basically reaches a mark of 0.5 m.
• To the parameter of the length of the handle, the butt must be added an additional 8-10 cm for allowance. It will be possible to cut it off after installing the butt. It is very important to ensure that the tree at this moment does not begin to split.

The template with its correct shape and all sizes will need to be applied to paper or a cardboard sheet.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

It’s not difficult to prepare an ax with your own hands. For this, it is necessary to adhere to a not very complex technology of work. Get to know her:

• mark the workpiece using a template;
• after that it can be gently cut out with a jigsaw or other similar tool;
• further, the prepared part will need to be turned on a special machine and polished.

There are a number of important rules that must be followed during the course of work.

• The processing of the securing area of \u200b\u200bthe ax must be carried out to the maximum carefully and accurately so as not to accidentally remove the excess part of the tree. Otherwise, the butt simply cannot be tightly fixed in place. It is better to try the handle periodically on the eye, so that in the end you get a small margin (no more than 2 cm).
• Do not put the file in the process of fine-tuning the part. This will lead to the inevitable loosening of the tree. Because of this, further work with him will be more difficult. It is better to use not a file, but a fine abrasive sandpaper with a grinder. You will need to move the tool along the wood fibers.
• It is necessary to give the final, correct and beautiful shape to the sticking place of the handle, taking into account the angle of the butt attachment. As for the cleaver - for him, the specified angle should be approximately 85 degrees. For a standard ax - 75 degrees.

With the independent manufacture of ax you need to act very carefully. Do not rush. If you wish, you can decorate the tool handle with patterns and carved decorations (for example, you can wrap it with jute lace - it will also be more reliable to hold the blade). When the ax is ready, it will be necessary to correctly install the cutting part on it.

Consider how to do this.

• Adjust the top of the part under the blade eye. Remove excess wood with a knife. Be careful.
• On the handle, set horizontally, the cutting part must be put on top. Then you need to put a mark on the handle with a pencil, to which it will be driven in. Divide the line and set another mark.
• Lock the handle in an upright position using a vice. The wide detail should be at the top. Prepare a hacksaw for metal. Drill exactly to the second mark under the wedge.

• In a specialized outlet, pick up a metal wedge or make it yourself from a tree.
• Put the board on a separate countertop. Put the blade on it. Put it upside down. Throw a prepared hatchet onto this part by tapping it on the board. Now turn over the fixture and tap the board with the handle. The part will continue to be planted. Repeat these steps repeatedly. As a result, it will turn out to drive a hatchet into the eye.
• Then set the part upright. Set the cut wedge. Drive it with a mallet. Saw off excess sticking parts

How to protect from rot?

The tree from which the ax is made, like other similar materials, is subject to decay. Such problems always arise over time or under inappropriate storage conditions of the instrument. It is important to take care of a homemade ax in advance, protecting it from decay. It is strongly discouraged to use formulations such as varnishes or paints to protect wooden handles. The ban on the use of such compounds is due to the fact that their presence on the handle can lead to its slipping out of the hands during the performance of certain works. The reason for this is a glossy smooth texture.

The best solution for protecting the ax from rotting will be other suitable impregnations.  You can cover the handle with linseed oil or good old drying oil. There are other highly effective antiseptic agents that will extend the life of a natural tree. But we must take into account that they will need to be applied periodically. Do not forget about this procedure.

Some masters add red pigment to antiseptic protective agents. They turn to such tricks not at all to give the instrument a more interesting appearance. After this coating, the ax will be much easier to find in the grass, because its color will become more vivid.

Note that the ax should be made so that its section has a characteristic oval shape. Only observing this condition, it will be possible to successfully hold it, without greatly straining the hand. Hitting with an ax will be more accurate and easier. It is recommended to do wood preparations for creating a hatchet in late autumn. It is during this period that the movement of juices is minimized (practically stops), and this means that the tree becomes as if dehydrated.

Many inexperienced craftsmen neglect drying wood for the construction of an ax.  In the end, this ends with the handle changing in size, and the metal part with the butt on it holds very poorly. It is permissible to turn to un-dried material exclusively in special situations, when the handle needs to be built in urgent mode, and this spare part is made as temporary.

When making a brand new hatchet yourself, you need to draw up a detailed drawing / template of the future tool. If you have a very convenient old ax in your arsenal, then you can remove all the parameters from it. It will be much easier and more convenient. Do not rush to turn the cutting edge of the tool. First you need to make sure that the hardness of the metal is sufficient. If it turns out to be excessively soft, then it will need to be additionally hardened under the influence of high temperatures.

It is permissible to start sharpening an ax blade only after installing it on an ax.

It is very important to use the finished ax (both home-made and bought in the store) correctly. Experienced craftsmen strongly do not recommend trying to cut various metal parts with such a device. Even if you plan to chop wood, it is better to make sure that there are no solid inclusions inside it that can harm the tool.

It is strongly discouraged to throw the finished tool on hard surfaces, especially from high heights.  It is not recommended to leave an ax in the open. Rainfall or aggressive sunlight can adversely affect the quality of the wood. Keep this tool in a dark and dry place. Only under such conditions will the ax serve you for many years.