Pocket chain saw. Electric saw chain with your own hands hand saw from chain from chainsaw

Instruments

The electric saw is the unavailable tool in the country area or in a personal house. She simply co-collapses with a cut of thick branches, boards and various wood material. Even the most reliable tool has its own degree of wear, sometimes you need to correct small or large breakdowns. Repair of electric saw naughty Hands are likely exclusively in some cases and in the presence of certain abilities and inventory. Often the instrument has to be given to the service. But there are some breakdowns that are simply corrected without the help of others.

Construction Review Electrical Circuit

In order to seize the ability to repair electric copies, you need to realize their design. The main element that produces cutting material is the saw chain, which drives the motor. The chain itself is a joint cutting links, which are bonded in themselves with hinges. The movement of the chain is made on the plate, which is called the tire. Electro saws from the grinder with their own hands. This detail is done from the steel of the highest property, which is not subject to chips, scratches and corrosion - this is the main indicator of the tool properties. Tires are highlighted in designs:

• welded;
• solid with a removable tip;
• whole with tip made of carbide materials.

The welded tire is something similar to the "sandwich", which is welded from 3 constituent parts into one, with all this in the design, the slave asterisk is inserted. One-piece design with a replaceable tip is a product of the 1st sheet, normal for long-length tools. In such a tire, the main load falls on the roller bearing of the slave sprocket. One-piece configuration allows you to lower the losses for friction by 8-10%. If a tool with a solid tire of solid alloy materials, then it is normally suitable for working with the highest load, also for operation in the criteria for the presence of a huge amount of sand, dust and mud.

1. The chain emission from the grinder with their own hands. When working with an electric saw, at least one configuration must be kept in the head about the ability of the "reverse strike". Garbage tool towards performing human work. Such a situation appears if the very end of the saw tire rests on the material being processed. To avoid injuries in such a situation, manufacturers equip saws automatic chain brake.

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2. Automatic chain brake is still referred to as inertial drives, which works due to a shield located in front of the left hand of the person performing the work. Before the work, this shield is put to the position closer to the hand, so that if necessary, it was activated rapidly. If the moment of the reverse strike appears, the operator's hand rests on this shield and the chain stops. The position changes and due to the inertia arising from impact. Such a system allows you to reduce the possibility of repairing electric chains, because during the impact it will not be damaged by its main mechanism.

3. Another system that prevents wear and breakage is automatic lubrication chain. In a special reservoir, the oil is poured, which during operation saws is transmitted through the oil pump to the slave asterisk and the chain. Some models even have an oil supply controller, because with different intensity of work, it is necessary to various quantities. For example, the repair of the electric saw blade involves an inspection of the oil supply system.

4. The chain saws with an electronic motor have some shortcomings or weak places. Some of them are the design of the gearbox. The torque is transmitted to the chain through a gearbox, which has a rigid bundle with an anchor of an electronic motor. This design transmits all loads on the engine, in other words, if solid inserts are contained in the workpiece or the saw chain fastened, it will not be so smoothly sliding over the surface. The result of this will be overheated by the motor or wear of some of its details. The chain emission is significantly how to connect the washing machine with your own hands to. As a preventive measure, you need to sharpen the saw in time and not to put pressure on it when working. Often enter the service repair of the power saw of the Parma with this kind of defects.

5. 2nd weak spot saw with an electronic motor - dependence on the voltage in the network. If it falls, the load on the engine is growing, in models that are not equipped with a thermal protection motor, the growing load leads to its combustion. Yes, and protection against temperature increase has shortcomings, because with a low voltage it works, lowering performance. For example, the repair of the electrical saw intercol is often reduced only to an increase in the voltage in the network, after that the tool works properly.

Overview of possible malfunctions

1. If the saw does not work, need to check The presence of nutrition, the integrity of the wires and connections.
2. If everything is in order in the power supply, you need to check the chain brake, which overlaps the operation of the tool. To eliminate this problem, you need to move the brake shield to another position.
3. If the measures described above did not turn on the saw, then need to check Cable integrity and plug.
4. If the power of the saw decreased, the performance fell, you need to change coal brushes, which apparently wear out.
5. Quite often the chain begins to stop not going away, but through a certain time lumen. The longer the saw was operated, the more this temporary clearance becomes. To get rid of this task, you need to change the feed brake ribbon, which was exhausted after time.
6. Often in the work of the saws the opposite, cutting ear sound. Such sound often occurs due to the lack of oil in the mechanism or due to the contamination of the grooves conductive it. The chain electric saw - it saws how to make a feeder for birds with your own hands. Remove the malfunction simply - pour oil and clean the furrows.
7. It is fundamentally used when repairing only unique spare parts that are recommended by the manufacturer. If you use spare parts from Posatronyi companies, it often leads to a tool breakdowns or the emergence of unsafe situations.
8. If there are damage to the case, then for its safety, the saw must be passed into the repair.
9. It is impossible to replace the cutting parts of the tool that are not recommended by the manufacturer are either not suitable in design.

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Homemade electric chain saw

Homemade removable adapter for a grinder that turns it into chain electrical.

Sharpening electric saw

One of the elements of the saw, followed by independently - chain. Chain electrolysed 2 years of operation, whether the apartment is planned with their own hands. It must be sharpened prophylactically, since in case of tightening with this process, the repair of the chain electronics will not be possible to produce with their own hands. It must be given to the service where the sharpening will produce on professional machines.

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1. Extension of the service life of the saw element:

• before starting work, you must make sure that there are no solid metal objects in the workpiece. If there is a contact of the cutting element with a metal object, it will remain a zubrin or chip on the chain, which is no longer possible;

• it is impossible to carry out work on Earth, since the deepening into the ground will score oil grooves, as a result of which the chain will remain without normal lubricant and is faster to wear;
• it is necessary to monitor the wedge of the saw, it cannot be allowed, as it overheats the metal and reduces the duration of its service.

2. How to determine that the saw is needed sharpening. To do this, it is enough to pay attention to chips - if they are small and slightly darker, then the chain fastened. This is explained by the fact that blunt edges do not remove the necessary cutting layer, it leads to grinding chips. Also, the quality of the sharpening saws is determined on the basis of a visual inspection, there should be no radii on the saw part, damage in the form of dotted sites, the shape of the tooth and the cutting edge should be the same as on a new tool.

If all these factors do not meet the necessary requirements, the saw requires sharpening. If you continue to work on a stupid saw, then this is reflected in performance, as well as on the period of sawing saw. With sharpened elements, the load on the engine increases, it overheats and all its elements wear out the faster of the specified period.

3. How to sharpen electric saw yourself:

• for sharpening, a special tool is needed, this is a set of circular and oval files, mandrel and caliber;
• sometimes the set additionally includes a hook for cleaning the slot chains from chips;
• round file combines a mandrel;
• flat-shaped file and caliber are used separately;
• chain point on the tire saw itself;

• the mandrel is put on the edge of the cutting tooth, while take into account the chamfer sharpening;
• the sharpening angle is set to 30 or 10to, the corner is set - this is the most difficult process of editing, since when setting an incorrect angle tool will be spoiled;

• the file with sharpening is exhibited perpendicular to the tank, it performs a little over the tooth when sharpening;
• sharpening passes in one direction, that is, only by the forward movement, not reciprocating;
• when one tooth is sharpened, the chain is scrolled and proceed to the sharpening of the next tooth;
• after all the edges of the teeth are processed after the file, the processing of the restrictive cut - the protrusion on the chain that does not have cutting edges, it is located on a single plate with the tooth. The function of this part is to form shut down when cutting;

• if the cut limiters spend greatly, the chain will not cut, but only slide, if too bueled, the tree will jam the cutting part of the tool;
• the edit of the cut limiters is made by caliber, it is applied to the edge of cutting teeth, while the end plank is at one level with the limiter;
• if the limiter acts, then it must be entrusted, this is made by the usual Flat Form file;
• the file for the limiter is moved in the perpendicular plane in one direction.

4. Sharpening saws on the machine:

• for sharpening on the machine, the chain is removed from the bus;
• the chain is installed on the guide machine and stretch the roller and ratchet, which hold it for the cutting tooth;
• there is a vehicle in the machine that sets the sharpening angle;
• the abrasive circle is lowered, with its help, a slight layer of metal is removed - approximately a few tenths of millimeters. This is the process of editing and sharpening chains;
• after editing one tooth, the guide is rearranged to the next and so on;
• this type of sharpening allows you to withstand the rigid framework and sharpening tools;
• if there is a desire to purchase such a machine for yourself, it is recommended to purchase a non-electric version of its option, but manual, since its value is significantly lower. The machine allows you to move the repair of the electroplated bosch and any other manufacturers.

Some rules for working with electric copies

1. Chain electronics are designed to work with a maximum speed indicator, you should always work with a fully open throttle, it will increase productivity.
2. Do not cut at right angles from ourselves, you should keep the saw a bit at an angle from the case.
3. It is necessary to adhere to the repair instructions for electric copies, as well as acquire only those parts, which recommended by the manufacturer.
4. Before transporting the saw, you need to turn off the engine, a tire with a chain with carrying is kept for yourself, you must pack the saw into the casing before transportation.
5. Do not work with a saw above the level of the shoulders, as it raises the risk of an accident.
6. If the saw is jammed in the material, then it is necessary to extract it from there very carefully. The steering force acting on the saw increases with the top clamp, which is quite dangerous for the operator.
7. When working with a log in the frame of subtle bans, it should be done very carefully, since the thin material in some cases is clamped and folded towards the person performing the person.
8. It is strictly forbidden to use a faulty, non-adjusted or not fully assembled tool.
9. Before you start, it is necessary to check the help of the saw switch.
10. It is necessary to constantly monitor the tension of the chain, since if it is stretched bad, it increases the risk of her scope from the guides, it leads not only to injury, but also to break the device.
11. Repair electrolysed partner, like any other saws, is recommended to be carried out in a specialized service center, as independent repair leads to serious problems in the future.

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Power saw for longitudinal sawmilling meat carcass Patent number: 93581 Text 93581 Class 66 b, 9, and the USSR Obre In the reservoir of meat 11, Non Industry S.P. Avented 7 A Bullet Inventions M 4 For 1952, Puoles Niy Ripp ...

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Such caps are very convenient to use during tourist hikes - places occupy very little, and sawing perfectly. Buy factory-proof tool is not always possible, but there is an easy way to make it yourself.

What you need

The saw is made from chains from chainsaws, a segment of a polymer sling with a length of 60-70 cm is used and about 3-4 cm wide and the width of about 3-4 cm. The elements are mounted with the bolts M 6 with washers and nuts. The plastic gluits the iron through baking paper, the chain is disassembled with a small grinder and a bandwicker.

Manufacturing process

Put the chain on a flat pad, find the connector. The battery corner grinding or a grinder neatly spool the rivet hats connecting the links of the chain.

Put the chain on the vice and break the axis of the connecting rivets, the chain is disconnected.

Prepare two segments of polymer slings, the length of each about 30 cm. Bend them in half, the hinge dimensions must provide a convenient position of the hand while working as a saw. Overtors Bend 3-4 cm and fold together. In this way, a reinforced knot for fastening the chain is prepared.

On the cutting board, put a piece of paper for baking, one end of a fitted sling on it, on top again paper. Iron heated the prepared place until the polymer is melted and does not glue. Warm CAUTION, do not allow full melting plastic - some species become fragile, while working saw the place of fixation of the chain cracks, the tool will have to be repaired in the field. For such technology, treat all four end of the ribbon pieces.

With a bandwich, make holes under the bolts. They need to be located approximately in the middle of the prepared place at a distance of 2-3 cm from the end.

Connect the chain to the handle. At first, put a bolt into the hole with the washer, put on it an open link chain, then the second end of the handle and tighten the connection with the nut.

Hand chain saw ready for use. Press the branch of the foot and try to cut it. If the chain is acute, then for the workpiece of wood, the required length will require a minimum of physical effort and time.

sdelaysam-svoimirukami.ru.
Pocket chain saw

Going to the long road, fishing with overnight, hunting, or just a vacation, many fishermen, hunters and tourists ship a small chainsaw in the car's luggage. Most often it is a small bitterness, so as not to drink drinkers on the fire of firewood. And what to do fans of walking tourism, long distances? I will not put a chainsaw in the backpack, even if it is small - she will simply displace all the other necessary in the walking hike, accessories. Yes, and the prospect for dragging overweight, albeit the thing in the campaign, it does not cause special optimism. Of course, there is always a place for a small hatcher in the backpack, but there are times when I needed to drink. For example, cut off the segment of a thick log that will burn all night. Dry, resinous trunk of fallen coniferous rocks, extraordinarily solid, and his little hatch can be bait all night. No fire will be needed! In this case, we will very much to help the chain from this very chainsaw, from which we will make a pocket chain saw. With its help, it is possible to quickly and quickly repel the barrel with a diameter of up to 20 centimeters. Make such a saw - the case is half an hour. I, among other things, the junk in the barn, broke the torn chain from the chainsaws, from which I made a pocket chain saw.

Of course, you can also make from the new chain, but in my opinion, from the new chain of the saw will not be so effective; She has too broad, not wasteful teeth and it is not designed - it will be harder to wake her. On the old chain, all the teeth are, as a rule, thin and waste, which is very convenient for a saw of this type.

Need

• Chain from chainsaws (preferably old, already developed).
• Emery machine.
• Fire (round, thin, for sharpening teeth).
• Thick metal rings (from bundles of keys, or from keychain) 2 pcs.
• Tin and flux.
• Gas burner or powerful lighter.
• A pair of links from not too thick chain (as in the photo).
• Machine oil.

Making a chain pocket saw:

First, I will relieve the chain from all over and sticking out. In addition to sawing teeth, of course.

With the help of a sandpaper, stepping or scolding all the protrusions, the teeth for the stars and tires, and the limiters that are located immediately behind the saw blades. Get this chain here:

Next, it is necessary to give the desired shape to the pyline teeth. Since we will work with a chain saw in both directions, and not as she worked on a chainsaw - one way, then the teeth, respectively, must be sharpened at both ends. On the sandpaper, with the help of a thin cutting disk, we give the teeth a triangular shape.

Armed with a round napfil, or a thin file, drag the teeth on the chain.

Now we will need two powerful iron rings, as well as a couple of links from a small chain.

We are slightly expanding the links so that they fit into them freely listed the iron ring.

Connect the metal ring and the end of the chain by an extended link. It should turn out like this:

Why not guess? Because I did not consider that in winter, in the cold, plastic will slip out of the woolen veasions, and in gloves it is cold. So it is better to use instead of handles cut there, on the spot, rough branches of a suitable thickness. Although it's a matter of everyone's business - I personally (as you can see on the video), I walked perfectly only with metal rings attached to the ends of the saw chain, when I sent constantly sliding tubes to the fire ... So, after we connected all parts of the saw chain, you need to discharge closed Ends of metal rings and links, just in case. For a lot of reliability, so to speak. Metal rings with a soldering iron to warm up for too long, because I fed them with a powerful lighter - simply cleaned the soldered surface of the metal with sandpaper, smeared the flux, warmed the lighter and the nano tin. It remains only to lubricate the saw chain with machine oil.

I used weapons oil for this, but for the absence of such, anyone can use. Though vegetable! That's all. It remains to test. As can be seen in the video below, the chain copes perfectly with a dry tree, even though I did not use the handles.

If you need to cut what is more serious - cut off a couple of branches for the handle is never late. With such a saw, you can easily drink firewood of the future, so that I do not save the fire for heating and cooking.

The most important and, perhaps, the largest plus of this product is that it is very compact and light. Collapse chain in the rings, put in the bag, and remove the backpack or bag in the pocket - a minute case. Do not forget to lubricate the chain of oil, and rule her teeth, after every campaign, and she will serve you for a long time, as well, and any other thing with good care and good, leaving.

Good time, comrades!

I offer you your reflections and experiments on the sawing of a tree.

Of all those who have involved in my life in my life, I made a persistent belief - I drank a traveler in the forest (tourist, mushroom, hunter) is not needed. One exception - to Lady.

All other need for a harness of the tree trunk is not relevant. The traveler does not need to perform construction work, the roll of the forest, the harvesting of firewood in commodity volumes. All the work on the arrangement of the parking lot is successfully performed by a knife and an ax (it is an ax, and not those "Hutsul Sokiram", in which many of our comrades turn their tool).

Of course, if the purpose of the hike is to perform tasks that require a specific tool - the tool will have to drag. But now there is a conversation about the very forest pedestrian (tourist / mushroom / hunter), which all luggage drags on himself, and necessarily has matches-knife-ax (IR).

Why can he need to be in the forest saw? According to my observations, the barrel with a diameter of up to 100 mm is easier to cut down (an ax with it according to any), but more than 100 - easier to fill, faster and less energy intensively. This remark refers to places with a predominance of coniferous and soft hardwood. Oak, Beech, Grab and other acacias require a drink right away, but I do not go there.
Peregi, Napnik, not large firewood is easier to extort. From the "large firewood" it seems to me only the pair of login for nodium.

I think the diameter is optimal to 150-200 mm. With a length of 1.5-2 m, one such a log (dry) will weigh ok. 30 kg and heating device will not undermine the fragile health of the traveler. The log of 30cm / 2m will weigh the OK.70 kg - a bit too much.

So, we have teaching on the "firing saw":

- the possibility of a routine crushing with a diameter of 20 cm (max. 30 cm);
- minimum weight (better negative);
- mode of use periodic, rare;
- There is a time to prepare for use (there is no need to sharply snatch and sawing);
- Location in the laying of baggage arbitrary (not a knife and not weapon).

Of those known to me, the types of saws (chain, disk, hacksaw, tapes) I chose a ribbon-in-law, as the most simple.

Frequently used "hacksaw" has a significant weight (thicker and durable knife, massive handle) due to its design. Popular pocket saws are unacceptable to handmade propyl (up to 6 mm) and relatively with ribbon to be larger than weight.

Basic saw requires a saw blade, fastening the canvas and lace. Everything else is in place in 5 minutes.

The length of the saw blade should exceed the diameter of the log (the greater - the better, it will be more convenient to cut) and in our case, the web is a length of 300 mm (similar to the common metal canvas).

Two pieces of mounting punctuate and two M5 screws with nuts, saw blade - and the whole kit for a saw.

Making frame and assembly saws occupied approx. 10 minutes. As a screed used a lace from the wives jackets. Overall sizes saw ok. 30x30 cm, the maximum depth was cutting to 15 cm. In principle, you can also write a log to 30 cm - in a circle.

Sawing the trunk with a diameter of 13-14 cm. Two cuts for 5 minutes each (though one handle saws, had to change). I would finish this matter half an hour exactly, and my forces would have left without a balance.

The saw disassembled, sticks - to the fire, the canvas - in the backpack.

The first experience made changes in TTX tool:

1. The saw should be transverse (tooth shape is an equilateral triangle, double-sided sharpening). Such a saw cannot be cut differently, as the cross - so it is not necessary. In addition, such a saw is both stroke (and there, and back) workers;

2. The length of the saw 300 mm is obviously not sufficient. Maximum amplitude
drying (comfortable handwheel) is not more than 60 cm. The most convenient I consider the length of the saw 40-45 cm (the lover work with his hands at home can check the height of the toaster on which it scares the plinth, without damaging the parquet). For laying in a backpack 40 cm - itself. So - Length is 400 mm;

3. Divorce of the teeth saw should be sufficient. And the wood is not too dry in the forest, and the trunk strives to clamp in the propylene during the provisions of the trunk. The total divorce (the width of the propyl) should be 2-3 thickness of the canvas. Better more, but it will be harder to cut - a larger volume of wood will have to "unzip";

4. At least one diagonal in the saw frame is necessary. For example, another lace connecting the top of the front handle with a middle (or opposite end) struts. So that it worked for tensile at the main working panel (from myself).
I fought a new saw to the summer fought - I bought the cheapest hacksaw, removed the handle, cut off the saw part of the width of approx 30 mm, brightened at the ends and put it in the laying.

Collection of saws occupied 10-15 minutes, diagonal was added.

The dimensions of the frame OK 45x45 cm, the length of the canvas OK.45 cm, the depth of the cut 20-25 cm. The saw blade from the first experience next to comparison.

Sawed with a diameter of 20-25 cm. One propyl occupied approx. 5 minutes. It is quite convenient to work, the main move - on yourself (get used to fast)

Comments, based on the results of work:

1. The thickness of the sticks used for the frame should be 3-4 cm. And the strength is sufficient, and keep more convenient;

2. The perfolred should be replaced by a wide band (for example, from galvanized) - the canvas twisted on the loop of the narrow punched.

Folding knife with a tree filling in my forest always with me.

Circular electroly saw is a very useful thing in any farm, according to the degree of necessity, it is perhaps in second place after the electric drill. If you have to use the saw and not particularly often, nevertheless, with the slightest possibility of manufacturing parts, I recommend to get such a machine. The saw of the proposed design can be equipped not only with a saw disk with a diameter of up to 200 mm, but also with cutting and sharpening circles, a mill and a universal woodworking head.

The main components of the electronics in the proposed embodiment undergo significant constructive changes associated with the enhancement of the structure and a change in layout: the unit is made frameless (Fig. 1). Unlike the prototype, this saw design provides not only sawing wood, but also processing with planing and milling, as well as a sharpening tool and metal cutting.

The basis of this design is the electric motor from the washing machine, for example, Tao-A type. The advantage of this electric motor is exceptional reliability, and taking into account that in the electric saw it works in more favorable conditions, it has a direct meaning to ensure its work in a more forced mode, replacing the starting relay with a condenser's start-up system, which will be described below.

The base of the saw is cut from plywood or boards with a thickness of at least 20 mm with dimensions of 300 x 500 mm. The electric motor is attached to the base of MB screws with a conical head with a corner of 50 x 50 mm and a length of 140 mm attached to the electric motor with its own regular tie bolts so that the horizontal regiments are directed outside the engine.

A similar method to the upper part of the electric motor is fastened with a substole, manufactured from plywood with a thickness of at least 15 mm and having about the same dimensions in the plan, as well as the base (Fig. 2). Holes in the coal, which serve to fasten them to the engine, in order to ensure the tension of the belt transmission perform an oblong form. Instead of the regular nuts of the upper venge bolts of the engine installed a steel plate with a size of 120 x 20 x 4 mm with threaded holes M8, in which the bolts are screwed. The substole and the base in the opposite engine zone are connected by spacer racks made of a metal bar with a diameter of 15 mm.

Shaft ball bearings on which the saw disk and pulley of the belt transmission are attached, installed in the bearing housing. As for the manufacture of the housing of the bearing assembly, shaft and parts that serve to fix the saw blade (Fig. 3), their manufacture is desirable to charge a qualified current, since not only the safety and reliability of the machine in the work is largely dependent on the quality of these parts. Woodworking quality.

The housing of the bearing unit is pulled out of steel 20, it is designed to install bearing type 203, which can be taken from the Moskvich 402-408 brand cars from the water pump or purchased in the auto shop. The spindle shaft and the parts of the saw blade fastening it is desirable to make from better steel, for example, from steel 45. The size of the parts of the saw disk mounts allow you to ensure the installation of disks with the diameter of the inner opening as 32 mm and 50 mm.

The body of the bearing assembly is welded to a steel coated with a size of 75 x 75 mm with a thickness of the walls of 5-6 mm, a length of 82 mm, with which the bearing unit is fixed to the podstol MB screws with conical heads. Threaded holes that serve to fasten it to the podstol, you should drill before welding with the use of a template, with which it is subsequently drilled by the holes in the substole. Bearing nests in order to avoid welding metal spray before welding rubbed with chalk. It should be noted that all subsequent holes in the parts connected to the parts are recommended to drill together during the draft pre-assembly, including the drinking of the hole in the substole, which serves to install the cutting tool, the approximate size of which is 200 x 30 mm.

The desktop is made of duralumin 4-5 mm thick or textolite, viniplast or duralumin with a thickness of 8-10 mm. For the passage of the saw blade in the table, a slot is done by a width of about 10 mm. This can be done later, in the process of checking the work of the machine. To the end part of the podstole, the bump is screwed to which the shafts with a diameter of M5 are fastened with half of the detachable card door hinges with a length of 90-100 mm (right and left), which include retaliatory halves of loops with pins, fastened to the desktop M5 screws with a conical head. Response halves to ensure the orientation of the cenclocks in the plates of loops with fasteners heads change places: the right half is joined with the left, and the left with the right response part.

In the opposite part of the table, the support-lifting device, which provides smooth adjustment of the edge of the table edge relative to the bottom and, accordingly, the desired value of the edge of the cutting tool relative to the table surface. At the first stage of the machine manufacturing, generally speaking, you can do without a lifting device, fixing the table on the prestole and adjusting the rise of the table by the formulation of the washers.
Before pressing bearings into the case, it is necessary to lubricate them with a lithol-24 consistency lubricant. When using the bearings with other sizes, adjust the size of the housing chain of the bearing assembly. Nuts preferably use ready. The slave pulley can be adapted from the old washing machine or pull out of the aluminum alloy.

The drive belt must have a length of approximately 600 mm, otherwise the use of a cutting tool with a diameter of 200 mm and is no longer possible: 1 Some washing machines are equipped with such belts. In combination with a cutting tool of a small diameter, of course, "you can use less length belts.

The regular circuit of turning on the electric motor saw is shown in Fig. 4. Starting relay of the RTK-C is fixed near the motor so that the arrow on its enclosure is oriented vertically up - otherwise the relay will not work correctly. Practice shows that it is more expedient to use the condenser starting system (Fig. 5), since it is noted that in the presence of a working capacitor, the engine torque is noticeably larger.

The condenser starting system does not require the use of a starting relay. Automatic shutdown of the starting capacitor is performed using the finalized two keyboard switch. The "Start" key (Fig. 6) is supplied with a elastic element - a piece of foam rubber or sponge rubber with a size of 5 x 10 x 20 mm, providing a refund key to its original state. The checkbox, fixed on this key, provides automatic triggering of the second section of the S2 switch, producing power to the electric motor.

The running of the electric motor is made by pressing the "Start" key for the time during which the electric motor will be released on working turns. After removing the push, the "Start" key, the elastic element returns to the original state, the erosion contacts Si, disconnecting the pads of the capacitors while the "Stop" key remains in the on state, closure contact S2. The electric motor stop is made by pressing the "Stop" key. When using the condenser. The starting system requires the installation of the fuse for the current of about 6a.

To adjust the tension of the belt, the screwdriver nuts are released and the substole is shifted relative to the engine, after which the nuts are again tightened. It should be borne in mind that with intensive operation, electric copies equipped with a system of condenser starting engine, the most weak link of the machine may turn out to be a regular transmission belt. In this case, you can apply belt transmission with a dual strap.

When using a regular motor start system to the conclusions of the starting relay "O" and "P", it is also advisable to connect the CP capacitor, as shown by the dotted line in Fig. 4, although the start relay is the moment of increasing current tracks quite clearly, without allowing the electric motor to develop significantly higher power.

Details of the engine start system are mounted on a metal, Z-shaped curved at the place of the shield that serves to protect the electric motor from falling out. The flap is made of galvanized roofing steel and fasten the M8 nuts to the protruding ends of the lower tightened bolts of the electric motor at a distance of about 35 mm from it and fasten to the base with screws. The key switch is fixed on the front surface of the shield, and on the back side - condensers.

The MB bolts to the table is attached to the guide, made of a duraluminous corner of 50 x 50 mm in size and 600 mm long, in which the holes of the holes with a diameter of 6 mm drilled, allowing to secure the guide to the table parallel to the saw disk at the required distance. In the table it is desirable to install steel threaded sleeves.

At the base of the saws make a trapezoidal slot with dimensions: on the bases of trapezoid 70 and 30 mm, the height of the trapezium is 150 mm. The slot serves to relieve sawdust from the disk to the accumulative polyethylene package, which is put on the neck, made under the slot, and fix on it with a twine or rubber band. Owls are useful as a mulch in vegetable garden, as well as a litter for small animal cells, such as hamsters. Of course, for the content of animal sawdust from chipboard, etc. Use is unacceptable.

Electrical saw during operation is installed on a massive stand made from solid rock boards, such as birch, thickness of at least 25 mm. Inside the stand near the corners of the box, there are bits of 40 x 40 x 40 mm in size, which relies the base of the machine. The stand serves as a saw storage case, for which the saw is turned upward and placed on the same buses, but can be used as a bunker for collecting sawdust, as it is equipped with a bottom.

The design of the spindle assembly allows the setting of a wide range of a variety of cutting and sharpening tools. Speaking about the selection of saws, it can be recommended to start purchasing a disk for longitudinal sawing with a thickness of 1.6 mm, with a diameter of 200 mm with 48 teeth. Generally speaking, the power of the saw saw is not very significant, so do not attempt to fit the saw blades of large diameters and thickness; Do not purchase discs intended for transverse sawmills: if the longitudinal saw and across the fibers of the sawtite is quite satisfactory, then when you try to push the longitudinal sawing using a transverse saw, you have a pretty.

It should be borne in mind that during the sawing of significant amounts of chipboard, a regular steel saw blade "sits" due to the presence of various solid inclusions in the material. Therefore, if necessary, sawing significant amounts of chipboard, I advise you to get a saw disk with cutting edges equipped with carbide plates.

The quarter is most productively selected by the cutter with an outer diameter of 125 mm, with a 32 mm planting hole. It is extremely useful to acquire a cutting disk for metal with a thickness of 3 mm, with a planting diameter of 32 mm, and an outer diameter of up to 200 mm, although the installation of a 22 mm of 22 mm is possible with the use of centering washers. In this case, the cutting of metal and profiles will not make any problems for you. In the case of the use of cutter or cutting disk, the hole in the desktop may have to expand a little.

Drawings of parts that ensure the fixing of the universal woodworking head (UDG) on the spindle are shown in Fig. 7. By the way, on the costs associated with the acquisition of UDG and the manufacture of installation details, I was forced to go due to the fact that the Oblaser "Rebier" of the type I-5709 produced by Latvia, I broke literally after 4 hours regarding not hard work-took the electric motor anchor. Judging by the fact that the spare Yakori instantly disappear from the shelves, I realized that the reliability of this Rubank was extremely low and a more reliable tool should be bought. I note that in the case of using UDG, it will be necessary to make a special desktop, because for the passage of the incisors fixed in the head, the width of the opening is 55 mm. Cutters for UDG can be made of the on-selling knives for the plane by processing them on the cutting and emery circles on the same machine.

Before the start of the sawing, to avoid damage to the teeth. Piles need to carefully examine the workpiece for the absence of nails and other inclusions. Particularly strictly followed by this rule when processing wood, used. When metal discovery, they should be deleted. In the case of stopping the engine due to its overload during the sawing, the saw should be turned off immediately, eliminate the cause of overload and turn on again. The reason for the frequent repetition of such situations may be blunting the cutting edges of the saw disk. In this case, you should use a personal or "velvet" file of a semicircular or diamond cross section and to apply cutting edges, which can be done and without removing the disk from the machine. After this procedure, the saw will work again as the "beast". Although I note the need to control the separation of the cutting edges of the saws, which approximately should be 0.6-0.8 mm. Without a divorce saw, sawing does not like! You should also periodically clean the keyboard player.

When trimming the edges of non-edged boards to obtain smooth edges on the board, it is pre-"to repel" the line with a hen or a cotton cord, graft or chalk. It would be nice and get auxiliary supporting roller, which can be taken from the spinning device of the washing machine, strengthening it on the stand of the corresponding height ..

Having lifted the desktop, you can set the abrasive stone and use the machine for sharpening the tool. A disc from plywood diameter up to 250 mm with a glued skurt ("Bayan") will allow polishing the parts. A polished circle, which is a package of round billets from the tissue, sandwiched between two disks, will facilitate the process of polishing metal and plastic parts with polishing paste.

The cutting and fastening tool is very conveniently stored in a metal can with a diameter of 300 mm from under the film. At the bottom of the banks put a piece of fabric, impregnated with oil, saws are placed in a pile (it is desirable to divide them with cardboard pads), wrapped the ends of the fabric and the jar is closed with a lid. Now corrosion tools are not terrible. You can make an eye to the box that allows you to hang the box on the wall.

When working on the machine, follow safety instructions: Be sure to use the goggles, work in gloves or gloves. Remember that new fingers do not grow instead of cut, and it is still very difficult to stick cut off, despite the enormous successes of medical science.
I wish you success in your work!