Easy way to stick PVC edgeband

The easiest way to glue a PVC edge is to order hot melt glue on the edge of a furniture shop. Then glue it, heating it with an iron or a hairdryer (naturally, not with an ordinary hairdryer, but with a technical one, which gives 500-600 degrees at the output). I myself have not used this method, so I can only tell about the negative aspects of it, based on my work experience with material.

I glue the PVC edgeband on a common rubber glue that we sell on tap. Best for "Moment", and "88" will do.

Knives and other hand cutting tools are not suitable for PVC processing. Even if you manage to cut the edge with a knife, then, I assure you, neither the efforts nor the time spent on this thankless task will pay off.

To process such an edge, you need a router. In fact, a special edge router is used for these purposes:

But if you are not going to open your own production, then there is no need to buy such a machine. Better to get a normal, large router. In addition to PVC processing, it is useful for finishing the ends, and for grooving - both at the ends of the panels and on the layer. And if you work with wood, then a router is simply necessary for you!

It is not necessary to buy a steep and expensive one, quite good Phiolent milling cutters are a reliable semi-professional

Cutter ABS edging

For processing PVC edges, the following cutter is used:

Therefore, the first step is to slightly modernize our router by adding a step to the platform. ... It can be made from textolite, plywood, at worst, from fiberboard - in a word, from any sheet material with a thickness of 4-5 mm. You can fix it on screws, screws, etc., the main thing is to drown the caps or glue!

Now you need to adjust the cutter height. Do not do this on the processed panel. It is unlikely that the first time you will be able to accurately adjust the height. Take some cut (but not very narrow, so that the router platform does not swing), paste over it with an edge, and adjust on it.

Usually, no matter how you set it up, after processing there is a small protrusion. It's okay, just try to keep this protrusion to a minimum so that it can be easily cut off with a knife. When you're done setting up, don’t discard this cut - it will come in handy next time. When the need arises to re-adjust the cutter height, simply rotate the cutter piece perpendicular to the end face and lower the platform so that the cutter fits snugly against the machined edge.

The cutter is set up, you can start processing the panels. You need to process in two passes. After the first pass, the cut will most likely be uneven, with the second pass we align all the projections and depressions:

In that order! If you change the order of the cut, the cutter will knock out and chisel off the edge. From time to time, clean the cutter bearing and the edge from adhering chips - the bearing may bounce on it and the cut will turn out to be uneven.

So, your panel has been machined with a milling cutter, but this is only a small part of the work. Now you have a long manual processing, which takes two or three times more time. First you need to trim off the overhanging ends of the hem. This can be done with large scissors or simply broken off, having previously cut with a knife. When breaking off, do not forget to firmly press the edge at the edge of the end, so that it does not come off. Cut not to the very root, but back off by about 0.5 mm. Better to spend time sanding or belt sandering than trimming more than necessary.

No router can handle PVC perfectly. In any case, there will be irregularities that will be clearly visible in the light. In most companies that manufacture furniture for sale, no one bothers with further processing - they cut off the remaining protrusion with a knife, scratch a couple of times with the back of the knife along the cut and that's it.

But you do it for yourself, right? Therefore, get ready to spend the same amount of time on bringing the cut to perfect condition. First of all, cut off the protrusion remaining after the router with a knife (if the height of the router is set correctly, then you will have to cut a thin thread).

If you glued PVC on contact glue, then most likely, drips, glue beads will remain on the panel. Be careful when cutting them. Better yet, first remove them with a cloth soaked in solvent or gasoline. After that, go over the cut with a fine sandpaper, smoothing out all the "undulations", then polish it with felt.

Now you have a finished panel that is not inferior in quality to that made at a furniture factory, and maybe even surpasses it!

Edging is an integral process in the manufacture of almost any wood product. Until two or three decades ago, an edge cutter was a big deficiency for most DIYers. Now on the market, these products are considered an affordable consumable for both professional machine tools and hand tools (milling cutters). On sale, you can easily find a variety of models of cutters, even for creating an edge with a fancy curved geometric shape.

Edging cutter design

Structurally, all cutters for an edge router consist of three parts:

• Shank, which is clamped into the cartridge of the applied device. The standard shape of this part of the cutter for hand tools is cylindrical, with a groove for better fixation. For professional use in special machines, nozzles with a conical clamping part are produced. This component is made from structural alloy steel.
• Cutting part, the shape of which determines the configuration of the processed edge. It can be made as a single piece with a shank or with replaceable cutting elements. The design of the shank on some models allows several of these parts to be installed at the same time. The blades of these cutter elements are made of tool high-speed steel or special hard alloys.
• Bearing(if provided by the design), which is installed at the top or bottom of the shank. A set of such devices of different diameters allows you to adjust the cutting depth.

Edge mills

Let's consider in more detail the existing types of devices. The most popular and demanded type of cutting tool for machining ends is an edge milling cutter with a bearing (upper or lower, less often with both at the same time). With the help of such devices, it is possible to process both straight edges and according to a pre-made template, which is especially important when making several identical wooden parts. In terms of the geometric shape of the cutting element, such cutters are very diverse and allow you to create both a flat end at a right angle to the surface of a wooden blank, and the most complex, curved edges.

Straight cutter

After machining the end face with a milling cutter, an edge straight with a bearing, the angle between the horizontal surface and the equipped edge is 90˚. The choice of the size of the working part of such nozzles directly depends on the thickness of the edge that needs to be processed. Very often, such devices are used not only to level the entire surface of the end, but also to remove protruding elements of a wooden structure, for example, veneer glued to the tabletop.

Tapered cutters can also be classified in this category. An edge processed with such a nozzle has a smooth surface located at an angle to the surface of the web. The dimensions and configuration of the cutting element depend on the thickness and the required edge slope.

Crimping edge milling cutter

The concave surface of the cutting part of such a cutter allows you to make rounded edges of various wood products. These attachments are most widely used in the manufacture of tabletops, processing the ends of shelves or armrests of chairs. The edge surface produced with this type of fixture is ¼ of a circle. The size of the cutting part of such a cutter is selected depending on the thickness of the material and the required radius of curvature of the edge.

Fillet milling cutter

This milling cutter on the geometry of the cutting edge is a mirror image of the molding one. The cutting element is made in the form of an outwardly curved arc of a circle. It is intended for arranging edges with a concave groove. Such products are widely used in the manufacture of simple skirting boards or furniture legs.

Cutters for joining individual elements

Quite often, a wooden product consists of several parts, which are subsequently connected with glue. In order to firmly and reliably dock the individual elements, the edges of the parts are processed with special cutters. The cutting elements of such products allow you to create connections:

• "In a quarter" (on one side of the end of each part, a square cut is made, the width and depth of which are equal to ½ of the thickness of the canvas);
• with a rectangular sample, the depth of which depends on the diameter of the installed bearing or adjusting devices of the device used;
• "Thorn-groove" (on one part they make a ledge, on the second - the same depression);

• multi-studded (at the ends of the first part, several rectangular grooves are cut, on the second - the same number of protrusions).

Nozzles for making curly ends

Such products are designed to create complex geometric shapes of edges. With their help, they make blanks for baguette frames for paintings or photographs, process the ends of exclusive furniture, door and window openings. Nozzles are produced both in the form of a finished monolithic structure, and with the possibility of installing two or more different cutters on the shank, which allows you to create an edge according to your own design preferences.

One of the varieties of such devices is designed for decorative processing of the edges of door panels and the manufacture of baseboards of various shapes.

Manufacturers and prices

The assortment of wood bevelling cutters is quite wide and varied. These items can be purchased separately. The price of these attachments depends on the manufacturer, the configuration of the cutting element and its dimensions. For example, a straight cutter FIT with a diameter of 10 mm and a working length of 20 mm costs about 150 rubles, and a Bosh molding nozzle with a radius of 14 mm and a lower bearing will cost you 900 rubles.

Many manufacturers offer sets of cutters (six or more pieces in one set):

• with products of the same shape, but different standard sizes of the working part;
• with cutters, the size and shape of the cutting element of which differs, is most often used for self-processing of wooden structures.

For example, a FIT set of 6 most commonly used devices costs 790 rubles, and a HAMMER set (of 12 or 15 pieces) - 2,000 or 2,400 rubles, respectively.

Jun 01 2013

Edging 2 mm with a hair dryer

A two-millimeter PVC edge, in my opinion, is the best solution for edging laminated chipboard. It is the most durable and looks more "rich" on the item than 0.4, and there is nothing to say about melamine. If I had my way, I would have crushed all the details with a "kopeck piece", but the price for it bites, especially if you order edging in the shop.

Therefore, I try to glue it myself, especially since today you can buy an edge with hot melt glue already applied to it in stores. Such manipulation makes it the most expensive for a ruble per running meter - KOPEYKI.

So, for gluing 2 mm PVC edges with hot melt adhesive applied, we need: the edge itself. A thermal gun (construction hair dryer), a router with a finger mill (or an edge router), a hacksaw blade, a metal ruler.

Traditionally, we fix the workpiece vertically, preferably on a workbench or at least a stool).

We measure the length of the edge, cut off the necessary piece, apply it to the workpiece and, heating the glue with a hairdryer, press it to the end of the part. Carefully iron it with your hand (some craftsmen use a bar upholstered with felt, or roll-on rollers for this). You need to work with gloves, otherwise it is easy to burn your hands.

At the radii, the edge must first be warmed up so that it softens - then it will lie much smoother.

Having glued the entire surface, we saw off the overhangs from the ends with a simple hacksaw blade.

We pass to the overhangs from the sides. To remove them, we need a router. Ideally, a special edger, but no fish ... I use a Ryobi universal router. It is massive enough and inconvenient for such work, but the result is quite satisfactory. Cylindrical cutter with bearing. It is advisable to use a parallel emphasis (in the article this moment is described too difficult - everything should be clear in the photo).

You have to be careful at radii, because the base "falls through" and you have to work with a canopy - there is a high risk of cutting the laminate.

I try to keep the cutter knives at about 0.1-0.2 mm of the edge uncut - i.e. do not reach the edge of the workpiece at this distance. This measure protects against damage to the surface during careless movement, but requires additional steps afterwards.

Removal of this residue is carried out with a metal ruler in the same way as for melamine.

After the final removal of the overhangs, the edges of the edges are sharp - our task is to smooth them out. This is done using the same ruler. Turning it at an angle, we scratch the sharp edge, rounding it, and removing the roughness of the milling. We work carefully at the junction of the edge with the laminate to avoid damaging it.

Thus, we smooth out both sharp edges along the entire length, at the same time we remove excess glue protruding from under the joint. As a result, we get the following:

Of course, it is better to use a specialized beveler for this, such as this one. It is much more convenient to work with it: they use a molding cutter, so there is no need to modify the edge later, they are much smaller in size, which means that they can be operated with one hand.

BUT the cost of this device, as a rule, exceeds 5000 r, therefore, I am from my 800 watt. It turned out like this:

Edging is the basic stage in the process of manufacturing cabinet furniture from panel materials. In the article about the simplest way of edging was shown - by hand, using ordinary household tools. There are highly specialized tools designed for trimming the edges that can greatly facilitate and speed up the furniture maker's work.

Tool for end (end) edge trimming WEGOMA KG94.

The tool allows you to quickly and accurately cut the end of melamine, PVC or ABS edging up to 1.2 mm thick and up to 54 mm wide with just one touch.

The KG94 is made of robust plastic and has two removable scissor blades. If necessary, the lower parts can be replaced with new ones, or sharpened. The fixed knife is adjustable in overhang and angle of installation, this allows you to set a minimum, uniform gap between the cutting edges of the knives to obtain a high-quality cut.

Photo of the KG94 cutter from different sides.

The work of the lever and knives.

The KG94 cutter is installed on the workpiece.
To perform the trimming, you need to press the lever.

Cutter KG94 in the process of cutting. The lever is partially pressed.

Edge trimmed with tool KG94
On the photo yellow - melamine edging, "Wenge" - ABS.

In the event that the adjacent end of the part had a glued edge, after cutting, sometimes a small flow of glue remains, which can be easily removed solvent or mechanically.

Longitudinal trimming tool WEGOMA AU93.

The tool is designed for double-sided longitudinal trimming of edges up to 0.5 mm thick and up to 40 mm wide. Two knives work for each overhang of the edge: the main knife cuts off the overhang (excess) of the edge flush with the face of the part, the other removes the corner chamfer from the edge of the edge and / or cleans up possible flaws in the operation of the first knife.

Structurally, AU93 consists of two mirror-identical plastic elements - half-cases, which are connected to each other through two guide bushings with springs inside. Each half-body has three removable, adjustable knives, which allows you to work with the tool on either side, or adjust the sides for work with edging materials of different thickness. The main double knife has a setting for adherence to the face. Additional two chamfering knives are adjustable for reach.

Photo of the AU93 cutter from different sides.

Longitudinal cutter disassembled. The smaller the lip width, the more the springs have to be compressed. When working with laminated chipboard up to 18 mm thick, it makes sense to put the springs weaker, or even remove them altogether.

Half body. The adjusting screw of the main knife is visible.

Adjusting screw for one of the additional knives.

A set of new knives for the AU93. A similar kit is available for the KG94 end cutter.

The smallest possible workpiece thickness is 14 mm.

WEGOMA AU93 at work. Melamine edge (yellow) and ABS (Wenge).

Melamine and ABS edges cut to length.

Based on the results of using these WEGOMA tools in the production of cabinet furniture from laminated chipboard, the following conclusions can be drawn.

End (end) cutter WEGOMA KG94 is a universal, useful and necessary tool. It can be safely recommended to any furniture maker who still uses a knife. The trimmer works equally well with melamine, PVC and ABS edging, as well as HPL edging for kitchen countertops. With sharp and adjusted knives, the cut is perfect or close to perfect, requiring only light grinding with an emery bar.

Longitudinal edge trimmer WEGOMA AU93 does not always show excellent results in practice. When working with melamine edging, the tool often leaves a subtle but tactile step that must be sanded down. Adjusting the main cutter blades did not produce the desired result. On the ABS edge, the step problem is virtually nonexistent. Additional knives do not justify themselves at all, they work with varying success, depending on the force of pressing the half-bodies to the material and the point of application of this force. An important advantage of the AU93 longitudinal undercutter is that it allows you to work comfortably with long, bulky workpieces in any position.