How to fix the wire in the strobe. Wire fasteners - basic fastening methods and wiring options (80 photo ideas) Fastening an electrical cable to a wall

The choice of accessories that make life easier for masters of all stripes is simply huge today. The market segment intended for the hard work of electrical workers was no exception.

Depending on the method of laying the wires, the fasteners for the electrical wiring also differ. In this article, we will try to cover the entire modern assortment as fully as possible, so it will be useful for both working craftsmen and those who prefer to do everything with their own hands.

Having fixed it so that in the future, when plastering or embedding strobes, it was securely fixed and did not interfere? To do this, it is important to remember two rules: place the wires geometrically correctly in the places recommended for this and use reliable fasteners. Which of them are provided for flush mounting, we will consider in this chapter.

Dowel clamp

This mount is one of the most common. It is quite easy to mount and provides a secure fit, and the price of this product will not burden your wallet much. There are several varieties of this mount, which differ from each other not only externally, but also functionally.

So:

The simplest version of this product is a bracket-type mount. It is a strip of plastic with locking notches at both ends, 6-8 mm wide. The size and shape of the mount is selected in accordance with the cable to be mounted. The quality of fixation is average, since there is no spacer element. Therefore, the use of such brackets for ceiling mounting can create some inconvenience.

To fix the element in a concrete or any other base, it is enough to pass a cable through it and install it in a pre-drilled hole of the desired diameter. For greater reliability, it is recommended to install brackets at a distance of 50 - 60 cm from each other.
This type of fastener is designed for wires with a diameter of 6-25 mm. It is also possible to fasten cable bundles, for which it is necessary to take into account the type of insulation that must be suitable for group laying.

The next type is a dowel-clamp with a spacer. The design of this product differs significantly from that discussed above. The photo shows that it contains a durable plastic rod, which is hammered after the toothed part is installed in the mounting hole.

This type of fastening is more durable and can withstand loads up to 8 kg. The cable clamp is made in the form of a fastened clamp, which allows you to fix power cables, corrugations and even smooth-walled pipes with a diameter of up to 32 mm.
This fastener has one drawback - after installation, it cannot be reused. Therefore, when using this type of connection, be careful when placing attachment points.

How to properly wire the house

installation site- this is a mount that resembles a kind of hybrid of the previous two options. It is a dowel equipped with a mounting head with a hole for a plastic or metal tie. Made from nylon or polypropylene. In the presence of a solid base, it keeps perfectly in the wall, due to the shape of the rod. With it, you can easily fix both a single cable and a whole group.

Advice! If you decide to use this type of fastening outdoors, then make sure that the clamps used are UV-resistant. The instructions on the label will clarify this information - most often such ties are black.

Cable clamps

The following is a mount made in the form of a clamp. This design is more durable than a dowel-clamp, since a metal screw is used for spacers, thanks to which, if necessary, the entire structure can be easily dismantled and moved to another location.

Fixing the wire is carried out simultaneously with mounting to the wall. It is important that the diameter of the cable being fastened clearly matches the diameter of the clamp, which is necessary in order to avoid sagging or squeezing the wire insulation.

Fasteners type PP

Another type of clamps is a PP type dowel. It has several varieties that differ from each other in shape and size, which are determined based on the type of wire being fixed.

Mounting is similar to a mounting pad or “bracket”, the only difference is that the cable is pressed directly against the wall. Also, using this mount, you can install pipes. If necessary, this connection can be easily dismantled.

Homemade fasteners

If at the right time you didn’t have a single staple at hand, and the household goods store is far away, then don’t rush to get upset, because making a home-made analogue will not take much effort and time.

For work you will need: ordinary dowel-screws or dowel-nails, as well as a two-wire wire or galvanized iron plates. We cut the wire (iron) into pieces of 5 - 7 cm long. In the middle we make a hole and put our dowel in there. Everything is ready, you can clearly see the result in the next photo.

It is also possible to use a single-core wire (wire) - in this case, the dowel must be wrapped with wire at the base of the cap.

For fixing the cable in the strobe, a quick-hardening gypsum mortar is perfect. This method requires some skill, since the time before solidification is very short, and you need to work it out very quickly. Therefore, knead the plaster in small portions.

To facilitate the task, we will offer one original way to fix the wire before the mixture hardens. If the strobe has even edges, then use pieces of corrugation that will serve as spring struts. This is enough to hold the cable.

Mounting brackets for surface mounting

If the electrician in the house is carried out after the repair, then the method of open wiring is used for this. It is simpler in execution, but due to the fact that the wires remain visible, it requires more care during installation, and the fasteners used here, in addition to the main function, should bring some aesthetics.

Cable channels

One of the most convenient, beautiful and at the same time inexpensive ways of open mounting is mounting using cable channels. It is a rectangular pipe with a removable front panel, which is attached to the wall using ordinary self-tapping screws, dowels, screws or nails.

After installation, a group of wires is placed inside and closed with a lid. You can easily choose the right color scheme and even texture, thanks to which this mount will discreetly fit into the interior of your room.

There are more complex options, one of which is shown in the diagram above. Most often they are presented in the form of electrical skirting boards. To install such a system will require a certain qualification.

Clips

This type of connection is intended for fastening cables placed in an additional insulator - a polymer corrugation. Due to its rough appearance, it is most often used in inconspicuous places and technical rooms, it is also excellent for outdoor installation.

To install the clips, use self-tapping screws or dowel screws, then simply snap the corrugation into them. The resulting connection will be very reliable and practical.

Insulators for retro style

Today, when creating an interior in the “retro” style, they often use the open-mounted method, which was used at the dawn of the century of electrification, for which modern manufacturers produce special wires and fasteners. Such wiring looks very nice in wooden houses.

The cable is fixed using a ceramic insulator, which provides a safe gap between the conductor and the wooden base. During installation, be careful not to overtighten the screw to avoid damage to the insulator.

Staples

In the above photos you can see the types of brackets for direct mounting the wire to the surface. Their installation is simple and intuitive, but due to the danger of direct cable contact with the wall, use this fastener only if the wires are double or triple insulated. Most often they are used to fix a television cable.

Mounting area

If you need to fix the wire in places where surface damage is undesirable (furniture, tiles), then use the mounting pads. They come in various shapes and colors, but they have one function - just stick such fasteners in the right place, and you can stretch the wire.

Specialized mounts

How to properly conduct wiring in the house, if there is no possibility to drill the surface at the cable locations, or the type of conductor has unusual specifics? To do this, rare, but no less useful mounting devices will come to your aid.

So:

The metal mounting tape is designed to fasten the cable in compliance with the desired laying step. It is used when installing underfloor heating, anti-icing systems and heating outdoor areas. It is very convenient to use when fastening large groups of conductors. It has a width of 21 mm and a distance between flexible fixation points of 25 mm. There are two types - copper and steel galvanized.
When installing anti-icing systems, it is necessary to pull the cable inside the downpipes. There are two types of fasteners designed for this - galvanized tape and special plastic clips.
Separately, we note aluminum tape, designed for installing wires on water pipes. It provides maximum heat transfer and high tightness of the cable to the pipe.

The reader who has read this article, for sure, understood how to properly conduct the wiring in the house and what devices will suit him the most. However, we strongly recommend that you watch the video presented on this page. Perhaps you will discover something new for yourself.

Increasingly, the choice of consumers falls on suspension-type structures, which are convenient for mounting, and also provide a smooth and beautiful surface, the shapes of which can be as diverse as the colors. However, laying wires under such objects is not an easy task.

So how to fix the cable to the ceiling if the installation of a suspended structure is coming? This question will be given instructions and answers in the course of this article.

Preparatory work

In order to correctly lay the wires under the ceiling, you should know some points:

Where is the main switchboard
What brand and what section of the cable
Where is the equipment located
Which wiring method to use, based on the specifics of the room

After completing the first paragraph, you can begin the selection of the necessary cable and tools. Guided by the recommended standards, you should opt for the VVGng cable, which can be used as both a recessed and an external electrical wiring system.

The possibility of laying electrical wires depends on where the electrical equipment is located. So, if it is not possible to lay hidden electrical wiring, then it is worth planning a route along which external cables will pass.

Attaching the cable to the ceiling from the outside

Currently, there are several types of external wire fastening:

Carrying them out in a special metallized or corrugated sleeve
Gasket in steel pipe
The use of electrical pipes made of plastic
Application of cable channels
Fixing the cable to the ceiling with insulators and brackets

A wide range of cable channels of various styles for home and industrial premises is presented on the website lotki-lider.ru

Any of the above options for external mounting of the electrical cable can approach the dwelling, but it all depends on the situation. It is better to mount some types on one type of surface, and it is undesirable to use some for the same surface.

What are the surfaces and methods of laying electrical wires for them

Ceiling wood type

A wooden ceiling is best equipped with steel tubes. Their transverse dimension strongly depends on the diameter of the electrical wires. In addition, several cables can be placed in one tube at once.

As a branch to the electrical consumer, it is better to use IP65 boxes, which must be assembled from refractory material. Inside the box, the possibility of touching the cable veins to its walls should be eliminated by applying insulation. This technique is important when installing both recessed and exposed wiring.

The process of installing a cable to a tree:

First, the layout of the minibus wiring is carried out.
Next, you should mark the location and install distribution and through boxes.
Then the tubes are shortened to the required length, and they are fixed to the ceiling. Next, the pipes are interconnected by welding.
All wiring wobbles must be performed at an angle of ninety degrees.
With the help of a broach, the cable is stretched from box to box, leaving conclusions at the ends, the length of which will be adequate for desoldering in boxes (will be about 20-25 cm).
Next, the wiring cores are connected in boxes using welding or soldering. The next step is to insulate the cable.
Then you need to conduct grounding.
Finally, the last step is to check the integrity of the resulting wiring.

How to fix a cable to a ceiling made of metal

The metal surface of the ceiling is a good current conductor, so it is necessary to approach the installation of the cable as responsibly as possible in order to avoid unpleasant incidents. Thus, it is best to lay the cable in plastic electrical tubes.

This material is perfect for a junction box. However, if the room is not conducive to the installation of this matter, you can run cables in steel tubes.

Mounting Features:

The marking of the route along which the cable will pass is carried out.
It is necessary to determine the location of the passage and distribution boxes.
You should cut off the excess tubes, then fix it on the ceiling, and then glue it, connecting the structure.
It is necessary to use a corrugated tube when turning the cable route, which must be made at a right angle.
Use broach when laying the cable from box to box, leaving leads at the ends, the length of which will be 20-25cm.
Coupling of cable cores in boxes is carried out by welding or soldering. Then they need to be isolated.
After these steps, the design should be checked for integrity.

Cable laying on a reinforced concrete slab

These plates are available in old houses, because their design is somewhat different from that used in the construction of modern buildings.

Currently, the floors are being prepared during construction. Electrical pipes made of plastic are laid in advance, installation and passage boxes are laid in the future ceiling. Next comes the pouring of the floors. However, this is typical for modern designs, but not for old houses.

The use of reinforced concrete slabs forces the cable to be routed through the channels, but, often, there are concrete piles at the edges of the slabs or inside that make it difficult to lay the wiring.

An open cable can be laid on a reinforced concrete slab in the following ways:

Features of the cable in the drywall construction

A distinctive feature of such a false ceiling is limited access to electrical wires, so it is necessary to plan in advance where the wiring will be serviced. Cable fastening to the ceiling will be carried out by the method that is suitable for the existing ceiling base, whether it be metal, concrete or wood. Similar methods are mentioned above in the article.

Drywall makes it easy to hide the wires, so there is no need for hidden wiring. However, it will be necessary to take out the distribution and passage boxes outside the ceiling in order to facilitate access to them.

Fastening the cable under the drywall construction, see the video:

Features of wiring in a rack ceiling

This ceiling is hemmed, like the previous instance, so many of the features of the drywall construction also fit the rails. Thus, the junction boxes should be placed outside the ceiling to allow easy access to them.

The rack ceiling is often installed in bathrooms, so the wiring under the ceiling should be done:

In electrical pipes made of plastic or corrugated analogues, provided that the ceiling is made of reinforced concrete.
In steel tubes, provided that the base of the ceiling is wood.

Features of wiring for cassette ceilings

If the ceiling is made of reinforced concrete or metal structures, it is necessary to use corrugated or plastic electrical tubes.
If the ceiling surface is made of wood, then steel pipes must be used.

Installation of wiring under a stretch ceiling

Cable laying under a stretch ceiling is hidden wiring, so you should be especially careful during installation. In addition, the material used in this ceiling is not resistant to high temperatures, so the wires must be placed in corrugated tubes. Moreover, distribution and feed-through boxes should be placed outside the ceiling.

Cable installation in an electrically conductive panel

These ceilings are modules filled with polyurethane foam. Conductive plates are built into these plates. Modules can be connected up to 5 pieces to one connector. Wiring is laid based on the characteristics of the room, whether the ceiling is made of reinforced concrete, wood or metal. In addition, wire distribution boxes should be taken out of the ceiling.

Electrically conductive panels look great at night when all lights are off except for the ceiling lights. By taking a photo of this ceiling at night, you can enjoy the unusual contrast of light and darkness.

The proposed options for placing wiring on the ceiling and under it are basic and relatively easy to reproduce on their own. If you carefully follow the installation instructions and comply with all safety standards, then there should be no problems with electrical wires, and the installation of lighting fixtures will turn into a real pleasure.

: laying and fastening the cable to the wall, floor or ceiling has to be done in an apartment with a rough finish, during redevelopment or repair. Also, when installing new household appliances, you have to pull a separate line from the electrical panel.

Consider how to fix the wires on the wall so that they do not spoil the interior with their appearance, comply with electrical safety rules and be protected from external influences and accidental damage.

Depending on how you decide to wire the rooms - in an open or hidden way, the method of attaching the wires to the wall is chosen. In this article, we will look at popular cable attachment methods - dowels, ties, staples, clips, their pros and cons.

Cable fixing

When installing the cable, various fastening methods are used. It all depends on the specific conditions, financial capabilities and tastes of the owners of the premises. When performing these works, everything must be securely fixed, the insulation is not broken, and the appearance is consistent with the environment and be favorable.

The materials from which walls and ceilings are made can have different densities and structures. The cable, depending on the task, can be completely or partially "hidden" in strobes (groove recesses), plastic pipes, corrugations or special trays. And if this is not very necessary, you should fix it more carefully.

All this can be done with a wide variety of tools. We will try to consider in more detail the most common types of fastening.

General rules

In principle, the recommendations are universal and simple. The distance can be reduced if necessary. For example, at the turns of the track, fasteners are installed at a small distance from the bend - 5-10 cm. The task is to ensure reliable fixation and prevent sagging.

When using screws, dowels and self-tapping screws, try to tighten them until they stop. Otherwise, the protruding cap may damage the insulation.
The maximum distance between attachment points should not exceed 50 cm, and at bends (turns) it can be reduced to 5-10 cm.
Laying is carried out without humps, evenly and preferably in a straight line (horizontally or vertically).
If a margin is provided, it should be made less noticeable.
With hidden laying of cables in the strobe, they are laid so that they do not interfere with further wall decoration.
If you have suspended or stretch ceilings, there is no need to make strobes under them.
The main tool that should be used during installation is a drill, puncher, screwdriver, screwdrivers and a hammer.

Fasteners for concealed gasket

If cables are laid during the repair phase, laying inside walls, floors or ceilings is increasingly being used. Since the result of the work is invisible, little attention is paid to aesthetics. But a lot of attention is paid to reliability and safety - access for rework is very, very complicated.

Ties of any type - with dowels, mounting platforms, etc.
You can choose the appropriate size clip type.
Make homemade fasteners.

If you are making a suspended plasterboard ceiling, the wiring can be attached to hangers or laid inside the profiles. Only during installation, do not lay the cables close to the profile wall - so as not to damage during operation.

For laying large bundles of wires on the ceiling, it is more convenient and faster to use trays, but you can still use the same fasteners. The only bad thing is that you have to drill a lot of holes for installing fasteners in concrete or brick. This is especially inconvenient when working on the ceiling. About how best to optimize the work in this case a little lower.

If the presence of false walls or a finished floor is not expected, recesses are made under the wires - strobes. Wires are laid in them, then they are covered with a solution and after that they are already finishing.

From an aesthetic standpoint, it's perfect. From the point of view of operation, it is problematic, since it is almost impossible to replace the wiring without breaking the walls. Nevertheless, the wiring is done just like that, just trying to lay high-quality cables, and even with some margin in terms of power or the number of pairs.

According to the safety rules, in combustible walls (wooden, panel and frame), the cable is laid in a non-combustible sheath or in an all-metal tray. If we are talking about a non-combustible shell, then usually it is a corrugated pipe made of a non-combustible plastic compound. In this case, the sheath itself is attached, inside which the cable is located.

This does not particularly affect the choice of the type of fastening, but it does affect the selection of fastener sizes - it is simply necessary that the latches can cover the shell.

Laying cables inside combustible walls is difficult: the requirements are very stringent. They can be made in frame or panel houses, but it is very difficult in timber or log houses. It is necessary to lay all-metal trays in the walls.

At the same time, a large amount of wood has to be taken out, which does not improve the thermal performance, and it is not possible to make the appearance ideal. Therefore, in wooden houses, they often resort to an open mounting method - over the walls.

Fasteners for open laying

For outdoor cable laying, more stringent requirements are imposed on the appearance of fasteners. Since everything is in plain sight, it is necessary to select the most inconspicuous options, or vice versa, the most decorative, for example, retro wiring.

Installation in cable channels. These are plastic trays that are mounted along the walls. Not the best method in terms of aesthetics, but if it is necessary to lay a large number of wires in wooden houses, perhaps the cheapest and most convenient for installation.
Laying a certain number of wires in special skirting boards.
Using staples from a stapler. The most inconspicuous fastener, besides it is installed quickly.
Fastening with brackets and clips, painted to match the cable.
There is a choice, but all methods are not ideal, because everyone decides for himself how and with what to fix the cable.

Attaching the wire to the wall

Depending on the type of surface, the method of fastening is also selected.

Soft and thin.

These include walls made of foam concrete, aerated concrete, fiberboard, plastic, drywall, etc. Simple fasteners will not hold here. More reliable and stable will be special devices in which the end or middle part is made extended. These can be butterfly dowels, umbrellas or dowels with a drill.

Dense.

These are wooden, gypsum, plastered surfaces, OSB and chipboard. In this case, ordinary self-tapping screws or simple nails are used. If the self-tapping screws are screwed in with great effort, you can pre-drill holes with a smaller diameter.

Solid.

Brick and concrete walls are the most common materials in this category. Here, even in pre-drilled holes, it will be problematic to screw self-tapping screws just like that. It is in this case that dowels should be used.

Most often, they consist of a plastic cap and a screw. Holes are drilled in the wall. For walls made of concrete and brick, the diameter of the drill must match the diameter of the dowel (drill 6 mm - dowel 6 mm).

For less dense surfaces, the drill should be 1 mm thinner (drill 5 mm - dowel 6 mm). Caps are inserted into the holes, the end of which should not protrude from the surface. Then, with the help of screws, fasteners (clamp, plates, etc.) are attached to them.

Attaching the cable to the ceiling

It is necessary to attach cables to the ceiling mainly when installing stretch ceilings or ceilings made of plastic panels and drywall. In the case of drywall, everything is somewhat simpler: there is a suspension system to which you can fasten the wire harnesses with plastic ties.

In other cases, everything is somewhat more complicated: you have to drill a large number of holes for fasteners, because they use all the same clips and brackets, and you need to install a dowel under each (if the ceiling is made of concrete slab).

Using cable trays (described above).
After attaching a number of lines to the ceiling, hang small wire harnesses from them with plastic ties.
Use a long perforated strip of metal for fastening.

How to fix the cable in the strobe

It is necessary to take care of the laying of cable harnesses long before the final finishing of the premises: just when the apartment still does not have any furniture, no things, no wallpaper, no linoleum, nothing at all. In a word - bare walls, as in one well-known TV show.

On these bare walls, we determine and mark the route along which we will have cable lines. Marking can be done with a construction pencil and a level.

Here it would not be superfluous to recall that the cable lines should not be located anyhow, but go either horizontally under the ceiling (at a height of 2.5 m), or strictly vertically along a plumb line. No diagonal transitions and horizontal segments at a low level are strictly allowed.

When marking the walls, we immediately determine the location of the sockets, switches and, because the holes in the wall for their installation will need to be made at the same stage as the strobes for laying the cable.

The width of each strobe is determined in accordance with the number and section of the cable that will be fixed in it.

Shtroblenie

Having completed the markup, we move on to the next question, which is of paramount importance. What to grind? There are plenty to choose from.

Most often, a puncher with one of the special nozzles is used to make a strobe. The first of these nozzles is called the strobe. Strober is a slightly curved blade with a longitudinal groove. The end of this blade is pointed and is designed to deepen inside the punched strobe.

Work with a strobe should be in a purely shock mode, without rotation. The strobe from it turns out to be neat and deep. However, with the help of this device, a strobe wider than the strobe itself can be made only in a few steps, which, of course, is not very convenient.

Another nozzle often used for chasing with a hammer drill is a regular flat spatula. The principle of working with it is about the same as with a strobe, but the performance is slightly lower.

Ordinary sharp peaks for a perforator or even drills, oddly enough, are also sometimes used for chasing - when there is nothing else at hand, and the amount of work is very small.

And yet, one should not expect great productivity when chasing with a perforator, especially when it comes to chasing concrete walls. Therefore, with large amounts of work, many electricians use a disc cutting tool to perform strobes.

As such, an angle grinder (angle grinder) is often suitable, or, more simply, a grinder with a diamond segment disc. With its help, cuts are made along the edges of the strobe to the required depth, and the middle part is subsequently easily knocked out using the same perforator.

Despite the seemingly much larger number of work operations, chasing with a grinder is much more productive than the same work using only a puncher. The reason is that the grinder makes each cut very quickly in one single pass.

The most productive tool for chasing is a chasing cutter - a device very similar to a grinder. The wall chaser has two cutting discs parallel to each other.

The distance between these discs is adjustable, which means that you can set the width of the strobe within the required limits. The position of the disks relative to the supporting surface also changes, that is, the depth of chasing.

Disc cutting tools have only one drawback compared to a rotary hammer. Of course, there is a lot of dust and dirt when shaving with a perforator, but this dust flies from the cutting disc not even in clubs, but in a continuous stream.

If an electrician neglects personal protective equipment when chasing with a grinder or a chasing cutter, then after finishing several objects, he risks having a disease of the lungs and / or eyes.

Therefore, goggles, a respirator and earplugs when making strobs are far from a luxury, even if you work as a perforator. Your health is always more valuable.

Professional wall chasers, by the way, are equipped not only with a protective cover for discs, but also with a standard pipe for connecting an industrial vacuum cleaner, which can absorb most of the generated dust.

Installation of a cable in a strobe

And now the strobe is completed, the dust and fog have dissipated, and you can proceed with the installation of cables. Unfortunately, the requirement for the replacement of hidden electrical wiring when laying the cable in the strobe most often has to be neglected. The implementation of large and wide strobes, in which a pipe for cable wiring could be accommodated, is far from always possible.

Therefore, as a rule, cables are laid in bundles in a strobe, without any additional protection. The insulation of the most popular cable for home installation - VVGng - is quite reliable and does not fail with this installation method.

You can fix the cable in the strobe in one of the following ways:

With perforated strip.

It was these perforated nylon strips that were used in their mass in the construction of our "favorite" panel "Khrushchev". The strip was fastened across the strobe with dowels and securely held the entire mass of cables, regardless of their number.

How to fix the cable in the strobe using a mounting aluminum strip.

This is available at any electrical store. Actually, it is not necessary to buy it: if you have free time and patience, you can make it by cutting any thin and ductile metal.

For installation, the strip breaks through in the middle and is screwed to the bottom of the strobe using the popular self-tapping dowel pair. The cables are laid on top of the strip, and its ends are bent with pliers, forming a tight and reliable lock. The method, of course, is laborious, but still very popular.

It is quite possible to fasten the cable with alabaster.

We pull the cable line along the strobe and immediately fix it with a solution that we keep at hand. The disadvantage of this method is that the alabaster solution cannot be diluted in large quantities due to the fact that it dries very quickly.

The most "advanced" and productive way of fastening a cable in a strobe is fastening with dowel clamps.

The dowel-clamp is a dowel with an installation size of 6 mm. At the end of it there is a special loop that allows you to hold the cable harness. Thus, installation using dowel clamps is utterly simple: you just need to punch a series of holes with a puncher, and then insert dowel clamps with a fixed bundle into them.

Types of fasteners for cables and wires

For any type of wiring and cable installation, the same types of fasteners can be used. It is selected based on the existing conditions, opportunities and tastes of the owners.

The main task is to ensure high-quality fixation and not violate the insulation either during installation or during further work and operation. And choose the type of fastening from the possible options.

There are quite a few of them - there are special ones that are produced specifically for cables, there are borrowed from other areas, there are home-made ones.

Dowel clamp

Plastic dowel cable ties are designed for fixing a single cable. Fastening the cable dowel with a clamp is very simple. To do this, we just need a puncher and a concrete drill with a diameter of 6 mm.

Notches are made on the sides of the clamp at an angle, which prevents it from falling out of the wall. If the size of the drill and collar are chosen correctly, then the dowel will never fall out of the hole.

First, a hole is drilled in the concrete to the required depth (depending on the length of the dowel itself), then the clamp is opened and the cable is laid into it, after which the clamp is pushed into the hole.

The dowel clamp for fixing the cable can be in two versions: for flat and round cables.

The positive aspects are low cost, quick installation method, reliable fixation (you can be sure that the cable will not break under its own weight).

Using the dowel clamp, the cable can be fastened to concrete, brick, foam block, decorative stone. Suitable for both open and hidden fixing of wires.

This type of fastening is sometimes called a dowel-clip or a dowel-bracket.

Dowel clip

More inconspicuous during installation is the dowel-clip. This is a curved strip of plastic with characteristic branches at the ends, which, due to the force of elasticity, will hold the fasteners in the material of the wall or ceiling.

The shape of these products is available for round and flat cables of various sizes. But you can’t fix serious cables with them - they are too small. But they look very neat on conductors of small sections, including television, telephone and Internet.

They are easy to install: a hole of a suitable diameter is drilled, a conductor is inserted into the clip, the ends are tucked into the hole and inserted with force. A really good option - quickly mounted, you look neat. Mainly used for open wiring.

Another option for quick cable attachment is a dowel tie. It is made of non-combustible self-extinguishing plastics, allows you to quickly mount cable lines. Can be used for both surface and concealed installation.

The dowel-tie is a quick and convenient way to fix the cable to concrete, brick and other surfaces.

There is a coupler with a detachable and one-piece lock. The detachable lock allows you to change the number of wires if necessary. The installation method is the same as for a conventional dowel. The difference is that the dowel here is also plastic.

brace

Cable clamps are available in plastic and metal.

Metal clips for cable fastening

As a rule, this method is used to fasten cables laid in a metal sleeve. Metal brackets have a hole for fasteners on one or both sides. The size of the brackets can be selected depending on the diameter of the metal hose. Excellent resistance to mechanical stress, suitable for "holding" heavy cables.

The advantage is "reusability". You can easily replace, shift, add-remove the cable, just unscrew the screw.

With this method of fastening, the cable is fixed to surfaces using pre-prepared fastening structures; it is traditionally used for fastening wiring.

Reliable fixation, thanks to which the cables can be pressed very tightly to the surface.
Fixing several parallel cables, this does not require drilling a bunch of holes, and a long fastener bracket can grab and fix 3-4 (or even more) cables at once.

Two-core aluminum noodles or PTPZh - a more rigid wire, usually used as staples. The bracket itself is attached to the wall using “quick installation” (6 x 40 or 6 x 60) or using building nails (if the walls are lined with gas silicate).

As a rule, it is applied to open installation of single cables. The plastic bracket is equipped with a nail for fixing, therefore it is suitable for mounting on soft surfaces such as wood, chipboard, plastic (you cannot drive such a nail into concrete).

During my practice, I often saw this method of fastening television and telephone cables. Providers are very fond of using plastic brackets for fastening an Internet cable.

In general, if the repair has already been completed and you need to carefully lay the cable over the baseboard, this is an ideal option - simple and cheap.

clip

Using clips, you can fix the cable on the wall, ceiling, on the floor. You just have to choose the right design, and there are a lot of them. Fastening the cable with clips is a very popular method - it can turn out very neatly and almost imperceptibly. This is if open wiring is supposed to be laid.

These fasteners are quite in demand for open cable laying. Clips after installation look pretty neat. They can be of various sizes, shapes and be metal or plastic,

A simple version has the form of a bow, on both sides of which there are holes for dowels or self-tapping screws. A good and simple design, but there is a small minus - for installation it is necessary to drill two holes. This slightly increases the installation time.

Clips for mounting the cable are metal and plastic, and of different shapes. The simplest are in the form of a bow, which has holes for self-tapping screws or dowels on one side and the other. They are all good, but installation requires drilling two holes, and this takes a lot of time.

There is an option that allows you to withstand the fire gap when installing the power cable on combustible surfaces (pictured left). This fastener is fixed with one self-tapping screw to the surface. It is good in that, if necessary, threads can be added to the same fasteners. To do this, you do not have to remove it, you will need to unscrew the screws holding the upper part of the clip.

The third option is a kind of loop from a strip of metal. To install it, you first need to bring the cables inside, then align the holes and fix it on the surface.

All these clips can be used both on the wall and on the ceiling. But when laying a large number of threads on the ceiling, they are inconvenient - too many mounting holes are required. They are made of metal, part is then painted - so that the fasteners stand out less during external laying.

Plastic clips are mainly used for fixing cables in corrugated hoses. They are available in different sizes for different corrugation diameters. They can be installed both individually and assembled in lines - for more accurate installation of large bundles of wiring.

This type of clips is used mainly for hidden gaskets, but if the corrugation is laid outside, then it is more convenient to fix it with their help.

An excellent option for attaching a cable to dense surfaces: wood and its derivatives, plaster - a clip with a nail. On the side of the plastic bracket there is a hole into which the carnation is inserted. In shape, nail clips are round and rectangular - for conductors of various shapes.

Fastening the cable with such brackets is quick and not conspicuous. Most often, small wires are also attached - television, telephone, for the Internet.

Another option for quick installation. It consists of a dowel with a thread and a platform with a coupler attached to it. First, a dowel is installed, a platform with a screed is screwed onto it. Wires are attached to the finished track.

KSP - cable tie with mounting platform for dowel

Material - non-combustible plastic, color - gray, use temperature - from -45°C to +85°C. Can be mounted on concrete, brick and wood surfaces.

Even the smallest staples and clips are still quite noticeable. There is a way to make fasteners almost invisible, at least in some cases. If you have a construction stapler, wires and telephone cables can be attached to wooden surfaces or plaster with special brackets.

They have long legs and a rounded back. There are special stapler staples designed for mounting cable with plastic stops (middle picture). They do not allow you to transfer the wire, which happens when working with conventional staples, if too much force is set on the trigger.

A good way is high speed - just one click on the stapler lever and the staple is already installed. In an hour you can fix a decent footage. Another positive point is that the fasteners are hardly noticeable; during dismantling, very small holes remain in the wood, which are also practically invisible.

With stucco and chipboard, OSB is somewhat more difficult - damage can be greater, however, they are still less noticeable than from nails, even the smallest ones.

The disadvantage of fastening cables with a stapler is significant size restrictions. Such staples are not large. The maximum size for the width of the bracket is 12.5 mm, and even then not in all types.

This is more than enough for mounting telephone "noodles", an Internet cable or other similar conductors, but it is far from always possible to fix VVG or NYM in this way. In addition, these cables have more rigid insulation, which requires more frequent installation of staples.

This cable mount is made in the form of a square platform. May be square or more oblong. I prefer the second option as they are more durable. Inside there is a mounting hole for mounting. Sometimes in stores you can find the abbreviation as PMO (platform with a mounting hole).

Installation is also not difficult. To begin with, a hole is drilled in concrete with a diameter of 6 mm, an ordinary dowel is inserted into it, and the platform is attached to the base (wall or ceiling) with a self-tapping screw.

Then we take an ordinary nylon tie and fasten the cable to the site with it. This method allows you to attach several wires and cables to one site. This means that fewer holes need to be drilled, which accordingly speeds up the installation process.

A positive aspect is ease of use, quick installation, the ability to attach several cables to the site at the same time.

The fastening of the clip for the corrugation is carried out with a dowel and a self-tapping screw. Clips are selected depending on the diameter of the corrugation. The advantage of clips is that they can be assembled into blocks (there are special locks on the side for this) and several cable routes can be laid simultaneously.

Mounting tape

The metal mounting tape is designed to fasten the cable in compliance with the desired laying step. It is very convenient to use when fastening large groups of conductors. It has a width of 21 mm and a distance between flexible fixation points of 25 mm. There are two types - copper and steel galvanized. Each ribbon clip has a folded tab and tab. The petal protrudes above the surface of the tape, which makes it easier to bend it, for example, with a screwdriver. A slight fold at the end of the tongue ensures that the cable is securely locked into place.

Cable channel is a very common way of fastening wires and cables in an open way. According to many electricians, this is the most convenient mounting method. The cable channel is made of galvanized steel, flame retardant plastic, aluminum and represents the simplest U - shaped design.

Wires are placed in this technical box and closed with a one-sided or two-sided cover.

floor;
trunk;
plinth;
parapet.

When installing the cable channel, markings are first made on the wall, then fastened with self-tapping screws, dowel nails or “liquid nails”.

It is not always necessary to fix the wires permanently. In some cases, you just need to arrange the bundles so that they do not get confused. For example, usually a considerable number of wires come to the desktop.

There is no need to fix them rigidly - after a while, alterations may be required, and holes remain from the driven nails, which you can’t disguise on the table. For these purposes, there are various devices. They are more commonly referred to as wire or cable holders.

For example, the same staples, but of a different structure. On the right in the photo above, you see a cable clip with double-sided adhesive tape attached to the back.

For mounting on furniture or plastic panels - it is very convenient, the glue can then be washed off, and the surface remains intact. In the center - the second option with the same idea, and on the left is the so-called mounting platform for attaching cable ties.

First, these pads are attached to the surface - they also have Velcro on the back. Then the bundle of wires is attached to the holes with a conventional plastic tie. Not so convenient and neat (the tails of the ties will stick out), but it can also be used.

Homemade fixtures

It often happens that there are no suitable brackets, pads or clamps for attaching the cable. All these elements can be made by yourself.

Of course, in their design, they are likely to be inferior to factory elements, but in some cases this is not so important. And if hands grow from where it is needed, then fasteners can be quite a worthy replacement for branded fasteners.

For the manufacture of installation elements, you can use a wide variety of materials. It can be single-core or two-core wires, plastic, galvanized sheet and much more. Here are some of the DIY options.

We cut two-core pieces of wire, the length is selected depending on the wire being attached. In the middle of each we pass a self-tapping screw.

We wrap the same, but single-core pieces around the dowel or self-tapping screw head.
Cut tin strips. In the middle we break through a nail or self-tapping screw.

ease of manufacture and installation;
there is no need to search for fasteners and purchase them in stores;
the ability to use (install and replace) homemade products repeatedly;
You can attach one or more wires at the same time.

Many factory fixtures are relatively inexpensive, but when hundreds of them are required, the sum is considerable. And if the wiring is hidden, it is required, for example, to fix the cable in the strobe, why wall up extra money if you can get by with improvised means. This is what a homemade cable mount is made of.

Tin strips + nails or dowels - depending on the material of the wall. Tin is preferably galvanized, but it can be "extracted" from beer cans. It is cut into strips 7-10 mm thick, a hole is made in the center into which a nail is threaded.

First, fasteners are stuffed along the route with a step of 60-100 cm, then the cable or wire is clamped with tin strips. To secure the cable securely, it is advisable to clamp the ends into a lock.

From galvanized metal, cut into strips about 1 cm thick, you can make the simplest U-shaped bracket. Nail at the ends, use like regular staples - grabbing the conductor every 50-80 cm. Can be used to attach wires to walls and ceilings.

Also, a strip of tin can be used to fasten the cable into a loop. The strip covers the cable after which the strip is attached to the wall (see photo on the right).

This option can also be used to fix the conductors in the strobe. It will be distinguished from the usual external fastening only by the installation step of the clamps - they can be installed less often, since their task is to hold the cables until the mortar with which the gate is closed hardens.

In the same way, you can fix wires in a protective sheath - corrugation, pipe, etc. Only the strips will need to be longer and, possibly, wider - for a more secure fixation. For wood, a nail or self-tapping screw is suitable; for brick and concrete, a dowel is required.

With improvised means, you can also fix bundles of wires. A longer strip of tin can be used to fasten several conductors located one next to the other. It is more convenient to use perforated metal for this (for example, mounting hangers for suspended ceilings), but you can get by with ordinary tin strips.

These are the main types of cable fasteners that you can do yourself. Surely there are other options - the imagination of craftsmen is inexhaustible, but these are the most common.

Cable trays - for concealed laying of large bundles

When lighting the ceiling from spotlights, a large number of wires have to be laid, and they have to be fixed to the ceiling. If we are talking about apartments, then the floors are most often a concrete slab.

It is hard and long to drill a lot of holes in it, it is not much easier to fasten wires individually or in small groups. For such cases, hanging cable trays are used. They are usually made of galvanized wire or perforated metal.

They are of different sizes, there are several different types of fastening - on studs attached to the ceiling, on “T” or “L”-shaped suspensions.

The installation order is as follows: first, the structure is assembled and mounted on the ceiling, then cables are thrown into it. If desired, they can be fixed with ties to the bars, but this is usually not necessary.

In addition, there are metal trays made of perforated and non-perforated metal. The latter are necessary when laying cables inside combustible walls - in frame houses, for example.

The same trays can be used when laying cables in the underground space. But then you can use the perforated version. It also provides excellent protection against rodents and accidental damage.

Fixing the tray to the ceiling and ceiling structures

Recommendations for the method of attaching the tray to ceiling racks
The method is similar to fastening shelves and brackets to the wall, with the only exception that the brackets are not attached to the wall, but to special ceiling racks or to prefabricated structures from ceiling supports and a mounting profile.
The trays are fastened to the ceiling with brackets using a prefabricated unit - a ceiling bracket.
The ceiling bracket assembly is attached to the ceiling using bolt anchors or a drive-in anchor.
The anchor is driven in using a special tool for driving the anchor, and then bolts are wrapped into it. Anchor mounting makes it easy to move or dismantle mounting structures.
The ceiling bracket must be installed every 1-1.5 meters (i.e., as with any other installation method: at the joints and in the middle of the cable tray).

In a similar way, the installation of trays is carried out using free-standing (without support to the wall) floor racks.

Mounting on perforated tape is the cheapest solution, but due to insufficient rigidity it has limited application: low load, low suspension height, small width of cable trays, difficulties with expanding mounting structures.
Perforated tape is attached to the ceiling with bolts screwed into anchors.
The channels are attached to the perforated tape with screws, nuts and washers.
The distance is chosen in the same way as when fastening with brackets - at the joints of the trays and in the middle of the tray (1-1.5 m).
As a more convenient, practical and reliable alternative to this method, it is proposed to mount the trays to the ceiling using C-shaped hangers.

Content:

Electrical networks connect various sources of electricity with consumers by wires and cables. Depending on the magnitude of the voltage, all components of these networks are divided into those up to 1000 volts, as well as into several groups of higher voltages. The largest number of consumers have voltages up to 1000 volts. Accordingly, in this group, the structure of the power grid is the most complex. Since there are many consumers, it means that the wires and cables connecting them are numerous and therefore must be ordered.

Safety of electricians and PUE

Just in case, we remind you that electricity is a source of increased danger. And in some cases, the work of an electrician is compared with the work of a miner who makes a mistake once. Therefore, in electrical engineering, a kind of charter is used, called the PUE (“Rules for the Installation of Electrical Installations”). Most of the fundamental electrical nuances in these rules are mentioned and are mandatory. Including the requirements for electrical wiring, including its fastenings, which will be discussed later.

The PUE refers to several types of cable and wire fastenings. Consider first the external wiring. It can be either hidden or open in its execution. In an open way, it is convenient to lay cables along the walls of buildings or strong, for example, reinforced concrete fences. This will require fixing the cable or wire on the wall, performed with a certain step.

Such a tough string

In order to reduce the number of mounting holes in the wall, a string is used.

It is a thin cable or steel wire (tape) stretched along the wall. Wires and cables, both single and in the form of bundles, are much easier to attach to this string. But this is true in comparison with direct fastening to the wall of a cable or wire only with a large length of the fixed part.

At one time, an instruction was approved that detailed all aspects of this type of fastener:

Those who wish to get acquainted with the full amount of information on this topic will find it in the instructions mentioned above. The article will reflect its main points.

When attaching cables to a string, it is important to do this taking into account the presence of a metal protective sheath. If a cable with such a sheath is laid, a gasket made of elastic material is needed at the attachment point. Its thickness is from 0.3 mm, and it is made wider than the mounting bracket by 3–4 mm. In more detail, the place of the fastener is illustrated by the images below:

For cables without a metal sheath, gaskets are not installed.

When the cable or wire is deflected away from the string, the radius is made according to the values \u200b\u200bspecified in Table 1:
Mounting brackets are located along the string with the optimal pitch:

0.5 m (but not less) on horizontal sections;
1.0 m (but not less) on vertical sections.

The string is pulled by a winch close to the bearing surface. If this surface is a plaster of a brick wall, plastic dowels are used.
When manually tensioned, the string covers the intermediate fastener. If the tension is made with a winch, the string is tied to this element.
The wire or cable is attached to the string with mounting tape K-226 or its equivalent.

If it is necessary to estimate the load on the string depending on the number and total mass of the group of attached conductors, it is recommended to use the data on the supporting cables (see below):

The junction box can also be attached to the string only if mounting on a bearing surface is a less efficient solution.
If the bearing surface contains protrusions, the string is attached to their tops, as shown in the image below:

The carrier string is certainly grounded (zeroed).

Direct attachment to the bearing surface

A prerequisite for a horizontal arrangement of cables is a rigid attachment to the bearing surface at the end points, on both sides of the bend and near the couplings.
With a vertical arrangement, massive cables are fastened so that their weight is distributed over the points of attachment to the bearing surface and does not cause both their own deformations (external and internal) and connection failures.
If there is a high probability of undesirable impact on the sheath of the cable or wire from the bearing surface, it is necessary to use elastic gaskets at the points of contact.

The base of the box

The box can be considered as a type of gasket that is effective at every point of contact between the cable and the bearing surface. But in combination with the role of fasteners. A group of cables is often laid in it. They are fixed both in bunches and in several layers. As a result, the lower layers and individual cables are pressed by the wires located above.

In boxes, group fastening of cables is done with the distribution of the load on the fasteners to relieve pressure on the lower wires.

For this, as well as for the purpose of functional separation, harnesses are made using corrugated clamps and pipes, as shown in the image below. The design of the box should allow clamps to be fastened through perforation or otherwise. For example, through holes drilled in it.

Flexible clamps

The use of plastic cable ties for outdoor installations is not recommended in continental climates. Heat and frost eventually make the screed material brittle. Especially if the screed is tightened, and the thermal expansion of the cable is significantly greater than that of it. To secure the plastic ties, the same ones made of stainless steel are put in two or three. They will hold the cable in case of damage to the rest of the plastic fasteners. Damaged clamps can be replaced with new ones.

In combination with dowels

The tightening clamp with a hole for a self-tapping screw is suitable as an independent element for fastening the cable to the bearing surface. In this case, reliable fixation of the self-tapping screw in it is necessary. This can always be obtained by drilling a hole and installing a dowel. There are several constructive varieties of dowels adapted for surfaces with different features. Some of them are shown below:

A cable tie with a hole paired with a dowel of the required design is the most versatile cable fastening option.
The clamp must be selected according to the loading weight if it is used on a ceiling or wall.

If the weight exceeds the passport values, a crack will appear in the hole area, and the clamp will have to be replaced with a more powerful one. Otherwise, it will most likely fall off the bearing surface, and the destruction of the clamps can develop further according to the domino principle.

Special dowels are provided for fixing the cable with clamps-screeds on brick and concrete bearing surfaces. One design combines two in one. This is a dowel clamp:

Its use will be best as a cable fastener on the wall. This will require a minimum of time and financial costs due to the uselessness of self-tapping screws. On the ceiling, this type of fastener can be used, but only for light cables.

Another design is a dowel for screeds. This design solution is somewhat less convenient in installation, since it will be necessary to thread the screed through it. In the landing hole, this dowel is held more securely. Otherwise, the properties of this fastener are similar to HD.

But still, a metal self-tapping screw in a special dowel provides the most durable connection with the bearing surface. Therefore, for heavy cable bundles and the most reliable installations, a mounting pad is recommended. It is also preferred for attaching the cable to the ceiling.

Staples

It is obvious that the price of the clamp-tie increases proportionately. And part of this fastener is bitten off and thrown away after the installation is completed. Therefore, for single cables, this installation method is not optimal. The simplest fastener for a cable on a brick or concrete wall is a bracket. Its design variants are adapted to the diameter of the conductor being held:

For a stronger fixation of the bracket in the mounting hole, it is filled with alabaster or glue. This type of fastener is the weakest in terms of adhesion to the bearing surface and is used only for walls. But on the other hand, it is the fastest in installation and the cheapest. For cables in a corrugation or pipe, a type of dowel-bracket is used:

But the dismantling of a corrugation or a pipe with brackets can only be done by destroying the latter. For the possibility of multiple installations of corrugations and pipes on the same route with the same fasteners, clips are used. Their dimensions correspond to the applied corrugation or pipe. The result is an elastic detachable connection. Clips can be placed on the wall without restrictions. It is permissible to use them on the ceiling, but with refinement. The jaws of the clip must be covered with a glued thread or wire twist. When uninstalling the cable, it is cut and thrown away.

But you can do without finalizing the clips by using a more expensive model with a lock:

Today we can no longer imagine our life without a large number of electrical appliances. They have penetrated into every corner and have become an integral part of everyday activity. That is why high-quality laying and fastening of wires has become an urgent problem not only for production sites and office premises, but also for residential premises.

There are two types of fastening: open and hidden type. Further, we will consider each of the options in detail and find the best solution for all possible situations.

hidden type

Naturally, during construction or major renovation, fastening of electrical wiring is carried out in a hidden way in specially prepared channels - strobes. The absence of the need to comply with aesthetics during electrical installation expands the possibilities of fastening. Next, a number of effective and practical methods will be considered.

Dowel clamps and dowel ties

The advantage of this type of fastening is its low cost and obvious practicality. For attaching wire using a clamp or screed, it is necessary to drill holes in the wall or on the ceiling with a puncher at a distance of 30-35 centimeters from each other. Make sure that the cable fits snugly against the wall, there are no kinks or creases. If you have chosen a dowel-clamp, then it is enough just to insert it into the hole. The latter does not require additional efforts, but the reliability of fastening will be low.

In the case of dowel-screeds, you will need to additionally drive in an expander peg, which will significantly improve the quality of fastening

Fast drying solution

This method is the fastest and most reliable. But its use requires some skill, because prepared alabaster or plaster- quick-drying. Therefore, there is a risk of not having time to attach the entire wire to the wall. As in the case discussed above, the cable is laid in a pre-prepared ditch (strobe) and glued with a solution every 40-50 centimeters. The obvious advantage of this method is that there is no need to drill walls and buy additional materials. But it will be quite difficult to fix more than three wires.

Homemade staples

If the repair budget is limited and every penny counts, mounting brackets can be made independently. For this thin steel strips are required or a standard two-core cable, cut into pieces of 6-7 centimeters. Further, everything is simple: a hole is made in the center of each strip into which a dowel is inserted. The latter is hammered into a pre-prepared hole in the wall. If the mounting surface is wooden, you can completely do with simple nails.

obvious the disadvantage of this method is long preparation time for the staples themselves. And also if the staples are left uncovered, rust spots may subsequently appear on the wallpaper.

The second type of mount we'll look at would be:

Open

Usually, this type of wiring is in demand in wooden houses, sheds and utility blocks. This eliminates the need for strobes, which significantly speeds up the process itself.

Cable channels

Cable channels - it is the most modern and practical way open wiring. In this case, both a rather attractive appearance and a low price play a special role. The practical advantage is that you can easily fix a group of wires. Channel installation is quite simple. It is necessary to remove the cover, fix the channel on the wall with self-tapping screws, lay the cable and reinstall the cover simply by snapping it into special latches.

Clips

Like fastening method only valid if the wires are located in plastic or corrugated pipes. It is important to choose clips according to the size of the pipe! Next, we proceed according to the standard plan:

we fasten the clips to the wooden surface with the help of self-tapping screws;
in a concrete or brick wall, you will need to pre-drill holes into which dowels are driven in and clips are already fixed on them.

Most often, this type of fastening is used when there is a need to conduct external wiring.

insulators

For this type of attachment, the wires must first be twisted into a tight bundle. Further, porcelain barrels crash into the wall and become the basis for fixing the wiring. Tip: in order not to waste time on twisting and fixing it, you can purchase already prepared harnesses in specialized stores.

Nail and other staples

This mounting method is widely known even among non-professionals. This type of fastening is used for laying both telephone and television cables. There are two types of staples: flat and arched. All such brackets have nails in their kit, so there should not be any particular problem with their fastening. Pretty practical option for mounting above the plinth. The disadvantage is the rather low strength of the nails themselves, so such staples should always be kept in reserve in order to replace the damaged one at any time.

For fastening thin wires, experts recommend using a drive. Outwardly, it is similar to a screw and is screwed into the wall in the same way, and a cable is wound onto the directly protruding thread.

Mounting area

This method is used when the wire needs to be laid on the tile. The installation site does not require any holes to be drilled or nails to be driven in. It is attached with a self-adhesive side and holds quite firmly. It is not recommended to use this type of fastening in rooms with high humidity.

It is worth considering separately cable wiring issue through the wall. To do this, it is necessary to drill a hole larger than the sleeve installed in it. In this case, you must adhere to several rules:

If the wall is made of refractory material, then the wires should be enclosed in a box or a piece of pipe.
If the wall, for example, is wooden, then a steel pipe (or a box made of any non-combustible material) must be laid in the hole.

The above have been discussed optimal and efficient modern methods of attaching wires to the wall, which should not cause much difficulty even for an unprepared person. However, be careful and make sure that it is not connected to a live line before laying the cable!