Applying decorative plaster yourself from your own materials. Decorative plaster: preparation and application with your own hands

Technique, technology for applying decorative plaster with video lessons.

Before applying decorative plaster with your own hands, you should thoroughly clean the wall surface. Remove old wallpaper or paint, clean the surface from dust. If there are irregularities, they must be removed by leveling the wall. Cover the cracks by gluing with a serpyanka mesh. The prepared surface must be level, clean and dry. Masking tape is used to glue the borders of surfaces on which plaster is not supposed to be applied. The surface is then primed with a deep penetration primer. It is most convenient to use a spray gun, but you can prime the surface with a roller or brush.

Decorative plaster is sold either as dry mix or ready-made. The dry mixture for cooking should be poured into a stainless, preferably plastic, container, sealed with water and mixed thoroughly with a mixer. The finished plaster just needs to be mixed for 2 minutes. If the plaster is white, then the color can be added during the preparation (mixing) of the composition. You can do without this, and after application and complete drying, paint the walls with paint.

The technology and technique for applying decorative plaster on the walls are shown in more detail in the video lessons below. We begin to apply the material after the primer is completely dry, see the characteristics. Apply with plastic or stainless steel tools. The layer thickness ranges from 2 mm to 5 mm. If you work with textured plaster, then the drawing is created immediately during application. contains mineral filler. The filler clings to the tool and creates furrows. The pattern depends on the direction of movement of the tool: vertically or horizontally, we get the usual "bark beetle", if in circular movements - "lamb", you can make wave-like movements, or those that you like.

Structural fine-grained plaster can be used to create a unique relief on the wall. You can use a variety of tools for this. The technology for applying decorative plaster with such a pattern is also not complicated. A decorative roller can create a grass-like relief. You can use a foam roller or sponge, various brushes or a crumpled piece of polyethylene. With a spatula, you can smooth out deep or rough patterns, or create a new one. The flight of imagination is an assistant in creating a unique drawing. Work should be carried out continuously, otherwise the borders of the drawing will be very noticeable.

After finishing the work, you need to let the plaster dry for several days. Then you can start painting. It is convenient to paint the surface with a wide brush or roller. Instead of paint, you can apply colored or pearlescent varnish. To give the wall extra shine, wax is applied over the paint (varnish).

Decorative plaster video tutorials

This video shows the technology of applying decorative plaster "Handitex" with your own hands, a very plastic material that opens up all the possibilities for imagination.

Superstroy masters give useful advice, explain how to prepare the walls before applying the plaster, the tools used, the application technique

And then see what technology for applying Venetian plaster with your own hands, the specialist gives good recommendations

Long gone are the days of the total deficit generated by the Soviet era. After all, then decorating the walls in the room was an understandable and simple matter. Today, a wide variety of finishing materials have appeared:

liquid wallpaper;
facing panels;
modern paints.

But decorative plaster is a real breakthrough in construction and repair technologies. This is absolutely not the kind of plaster that is put under the wallpaper, but a completely new independent material.

The excellent qualities of decorative plaster do not need any additional recommendations. Two rooms, even decorated by the same person, using the same materials and techniques, will never be the same. Each one is exclusive, because the pattern of plaster on the wall cannot be repeated. With its help, you can create the most interesting effects, you just need to master the necessary technique. This coating is very durable against all kinds of harmful influences. It is difficult to get dirty, but if it somehow happened, it is easy to wash it off.

The plaster is environmentally friendly, does not emit harmful chemical compounds.

In addition, it improves the soundproofing of the walls. In stores, such material is sold dry, it is made on the basis of binding materials. As fillers, crumb, sand, stones or fibers with the addition of antiseptics, dyes, thickeners can be used. In this article, we will tell you how to make decorative plaster of walls with your own hands, what methods and materials exist for this, and also demonstrate photo and video instructions.

Conventionally, plaster is divided into:

interior.

Facade plaster is much more resistant to aggressive environmental influences and is used for external work. The interior, in turn, is divided into:

mineral;
silicate;
latex.

There is also a classification according to the type of surface that is obtained. For example, under the "roller", "fur coat", "rust", etc.

In general, each type of plaster has its own characteristics in application. For example, expensive "Venetian" plaster is applied in several layers, in a special way that requires solid professional skills, it can be coated on top with wax. This is beyond the power of a beginner, so it is better to turn to a professional.

If you still want to make repairs with your own hands, it is better to choose a plaster of the "bark beetle" type. To apply it, you only need an ordinary spatula.

Even a beginner will be able to work with ordinary decorative plaster, because it is extremely difficult to spoil such a coating. And there is no need to prepare the walls too carefully - it will smooth out all defects by itself. Such decorative plaster of walls will also give a flight of your design idea.

Preparing walls for decoration

It is necessary to thoroughly clean the wall from the remnants of the past coating (paint, wallpaper, etc.). The detached areas are removed, and the cracks are closed. This will be enough for plaster like "bark beetle", but "Venetian" and some other varieties require a perfectly flat surface.

After priming and drying the surface, it is necessary to decide whether the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe wall will be plastered, or part of it will go under another coating.

The zones of different claddings can be separated using masking tape or window seal.

Minimum set of tools:

Spatulas of different sizes.
Grater (wooden or plastic).
Metal trowel.
Containers for solution and water.
Roller for textured plaster.

The solution should be prepared based on the recommendations on the package, then you will get the required consistency. Moreover, you need to prepare such a portion in order to select it at a time, otherwise the solution will "grab" right in the container. This is a job that does not tolerate long smoke breaks.

You need to apply the plaster with a spatula. When it thickens a little, you can go over it with a float without undue pressure, creating the desired pattern. It is better to practice in a small area first.

To create a unique relief, a spatula, grater and your own hands are enough. You can use any available means.

Most often, beginners create rains of different directions, circles, waves, crossed lines on the walls. The horizontal relief is the easiest to execute. You can also use a special curly roller, then applying the pattern is much easier.

All this must be done at the maximum rate, because the layer of plaster dries very quickly. It is necessary to pay special attention to the joints of the sections to avoid sagging.

If your wall has been prepared for different types of coatings, then the adhesive tape in the areas where the zones are divided must be removed before the plaster is completely dry, later it will be more difficult to do this, and minor defects may remain.

After complete drying (usually about 24 hours), the plaster needs to be treated with a fine sandpaper, which removes all excess.

At this, wall decoration with decorative plaster can be considered complete. But there are people who are not satisfied with this, and they want to paint the wall. In this case, use only high quality paint that is resistant to moisture, sunlight and mechanical stress.

When carrying out work, you must first paint the textured areas of surfaces, and only then smooth ones.

After the first coat has dried, apply a second coat of paint.

For finishing the facade, decorative plaster bark beetle is increasingly used. Even an apprentice can apply it, the main thing is to get acquainted with the technology and adhere to it as accurately as possible.

As a rule, bark beetle is used for facade work, but due to its attractive texture, this type of decorative plaster has recently been used in interior decoration, for example, in eco style.

The bark beetle is used for finishing vertical surfaces, but if you have experience in this matter, then you can even apply it to the ceiling.

Wall preparation and priming

Before applying the bark beetle, you need to putty the surface of the walls, if we are talking about plastered walls. It is very practical to apply the bark beetle directly to the foam that has been previously glued to the facade of the house. Alignment will be reduced to grouting.

To avoid the formation of cracks at the joints of the foam, use a reinforcing mesh when applying the putty.

In order to achieve proper adhesion of the plaster to the wall, use a primer that contains quartz sand, which provides excellent adhesion of the plaster to the base of the wall.

The products of the manufacturer Ceresit are most in demand on the market. If you also decide to purchase such a primer, then the CT 16 brand should be used for decorative plaster.

The walls are covered with a primer shortly before applying the bark beetle. At a temperature of + 20 ° C, the primed surface will dry within 30 minutes. The consumption of the composition is 150 g / m 2.

The primer is slightly translucent from under the plaster, so its color should be as close as possible to the color of the bark beetle. To do this, it should simply be tinted in a shade corresponding to the color of the bark beetle.

If the bark beetle will be applied to cement-sand plaster, then priming the surface is not necessary. Just wet the wall one hour before applying the bark beetle. For maximum adhesion, wet the substrate with plenty of water.

On the market you can buy a ready-made mixture, it can be Ceresit CT 63 or a dry mixture that you will need to prepare yourself. If we talk about the price, then from an economic point of view it is better to purchase a dry mixture, since it is cheaper.

To prepare decorative plaster from a dry mixture, you will need a drill with a mixing nozzle, water and a mixing container.

The bark beetle dries quickly and must not be mixed with water. Therefore, make a small batch, especially if you have no experience with decorative plaster.

Taking into account the size of the marble chips, the amount of bark beetle is calculated. For the small fraction XS, the consumption is 700 g / m 2, for XL - 1700 g / m 2, and for XXL - 2000 g / m 2. To make the joints invisible, you need to apply the bark beetle to the wall at a time.

So, to prepare the mixture, pour the amount of water indicated on the package into the container. In this case, the water temperature should not exceed 15–20 ° C. Add the dry mixture to the water gradually, while stirring the composition with a drill with a mixer nozzle. Leave the finished plaster for 10 minutes, and then stir again.

Only acrylic-based bark beetle can be tinted, all other types of plaster are best painted on top.

The main thing when applying the bark beetle is to distribute the composition over the surface evenly. This can be done with a metal scraper with a length of 30 cm.You can remove excess bark beetle from it with a spatula 10 cm long.

The layer of bark beetle should correspond to the size of the marble chips, that is, within 2-3 mm. This is an important condition, because if the layer is too thin, the primer will show through strongly, as a result of which the protective properties of the finish will be deteriorated. Well, if the plaster layer is too thick, then the texture of the bark beetle will not be visible and the appearance of the facade / interior decoration will suffer.

Since, as mentioned above, the bark beetle dries quickly, you will have to work just as quickly. To make the surface of the walls as uniform as possible, it is better to apply the plaster in one go. But if this is unrealistic due to the large wall area, then separate the strip with masking tape and apply the composition slightly overlapping the adhesive tape. Then peel off the tape without waiting for the plaster to dry. Continue applying the plaster in the same way until the entire wall is covered with it.

Trituration

The most crucial stage of work is rubbing the bark beetle. It depends on him what the drawing on the wall will ultimately be. This work should be started immediately after the plaster begins to dry (after about 20 minutes). If the palm does not stick to the wall, then you can start rubbing, which is performed using a plastic trowel.

Chaotic depressions are formed when marble chips are rubbed.

Thus, the desired effect can be obtained:

"Lamb" - the pattern is formed through short circular movements. So, chaotic grooves remain on the wall, which are visually similar to the wool of a lamb.
"Rain" is the most common rubbing technique. It is created with up and down movements. So, you get a vertical rain. If you rub from the upper left corner to the lower right corner, then the rain will be diagonal. To keep the grinding angle constant, you can mark the wall with masking tape.
"Carpet" - rubbing should be carried out by alternating movements up and down and left and right.

If you cannot apply the plaster in one go, then do not grind it to the very edge. It is better to finish the next part of the wall, and then carefully rub the joints. This way you can make a seamless transition.

You can paint the walls the next day after applying the bark beetle. Painting has some advantages over tinting plaster. After drying the bark beetle without color, you can finally level the layer with sandpaper. It is impossible to level plaster with color in this way, as rubbed pieces will be visible.

Painting provides more opportunities for design work. This aspect is especially relevant when using bark beetle in the interior design of premises.

The grooves emphasized by a dark shade look very impressive. To achieve this, the wall must first be painted with a dark color. After the paint is dry, apply a second lighter coat of paint. In this case, the second layer must be applied with a semi-dry roller. In this case, the paint will not penetrate into the grooves, and they will remain dark. The consumption of the coloring composition is 300 g / m 2.

To improve the performance of the walls (this is especially appropriate for interior wall decoration), you can varnish them with glossy or glitter varnish.

Preparation for applying homemade decorative plaster, made from putty, begins by determining the room in which it will be applied to the walls. The choice of texture, collection of tools and even the method of mixing the composition depends on this.

So, for the successful decoration of walls with putty, you will need:

Putty.
Capacity for kneading.
Spatula and trowel.
Metal grater.
Construction mixer.
Patterned plastic wrap or bag.

Measure the walls, which will allow you to roughly calculate the amount of starting material for decoration. The approximate consumption of putty indicated on the package will help you with this. To save money, you can purchase a powder putty. To make a solution in this case, you will need:

6 kg of dry putty;
200 g PVA glue;
2 liters of water.

Dilute the putty with water in a suitable container. This can be done using a mixer. You should have a homogeneous mass. Then add PVA to the mixture and bring it back to homogeneity.

For walls in rooms with low humidity levels, you can use gypsum or cement plaster. And for rooms with high levels of humidity, it is better to use cement.

If the walls are damaged, then all the crumbling parts must be cleaned. All grooves should be covered with cement. This way, you can align the walls. If the surface is unreliable, then a plaster mesh should be glued to it, which you will subsequently putty.

After the layer of putty is dry, rub it off so that the surface is even. Then the walls should be primed. Use a deep penetration compound for this purpose.

Applying homemade plaster

You can apply decorative plaster made with your own hand from putty in several ways:

Scales. Apply the putty 3–5 mm thick and then apply vertical strokes with a 10 cm wide trowel. After the composition is dry, it can be painted in the desired color.
Rock. Start applying a thin layer of putty from the top corner of the wall. The layer should be about 3 mm. Then take a metal trowel and attach it so that one side of it stays in the air, not actually touching the wall. Without lifting your hands, draw straight lines along the putty.
Cave. Apply the putty to the wall, level it. Then, with a piece of plastic compressed into a ball, make a pattern, pressing it against the wall. This can be done in another way by attaching a covering film to the wall. It will need to be torn from the putty in a day.
Venetian made of putty. Put some putty on the spatula, make uneven strokes with it. After 24 hours, sand the walls with fine-grained sandpaper. If you only need to erase sharp corners, use a mesh. Prime the surface and let dry. Paint the wall with a base color, followed by a surface color. It should be lightly wiped off the convex parts of the plaster immediately after application with a damp cloth. Ultimately, the walls should be covered with wax / acrylic lacquer / gilding.
To create an original pattern, you can use other stamps from scrap materials. For example, pieces of foam, twigs, styrofoam, flowers, fabric cuts, a roller wrapped in fabric, stencils, etc.

After your homemade decorative plaster is dry, paint or open it with colored wax.

In general, this science is simple and even an inexperienced "plasterer" can do it. If you did everything correctly, the interior of your home will delight you with originality and identity for many years.

Photo

Video

We bring to your attention a series of videos about various decorative plasters and how to apply them:

If you want to order wall decoration with decorative plaster, we recommend contacting professionals, since the price of these products is very high. You can find out the cost of decorative plaster on the websites of companies producing decorative coatings. Also pay attention to the Venetian plaster, which is great for covering walls.

Many novice builders have a question: can decorative plaster be applied to plaster? It is worth paying attention to this issue, since it is primarily a financial issue, and then a question of beauty. If you master the technique well, you can save on costs.

You can do this job very well yourself without resorting to specialists. Worth considering:

What is decorative plaster?
How to apply it?
What tools are needed?

Is it possible to apply decorative plaster to the main surface - material features

Decorative plaster means mass. It is used to decorate different types of surfaces. Since it has an attractive appearance, it is called decorative. After all, when it is applied to the wall, it looks quite aesthetically pleasing.

In order to start plastering the walls, you will need two types of materials. The first type should be attributed.

For more information about decorative textured plaster, see the video:

Structural plaster is another type of material.

It should be noted that the material already contains a dye. However, after testing and polymerization has occurred, the wall needs additional painting. And sometimes it is enough just to tint it.

The surface will look even more beautiful if it is treated with metallics and pearlescent pigments.

Structural putty

And what about the structural putty. They are less plastic than textured ones; they should also be taken into account when working. Thanks to the mineral granules they contain, the texture is formed. Quartz, marble, granite and others also play an important role. Relief is achieved due to the fact that the grains are either on the surface itself or inside it.

In specialized stores, you can find several more types of materials. Including fiber products, plaster, and almost transparent mixtures for plaster. They are used less often than the previous ones. Therefore, we will not talk about them.

In principle, there are other types of materials on the market - fibrous products, translucent plaster mixes, etc. However, they are used quite rarely, therefore it would be more expedient to focus on the more common finishing techniques. Let's talk about how to apply decorative plaster to plaster.

Required tool

First of all, it is important to decide what kind of tool you need to apply the plaster. Interestingly, in some cases one spatula can be used. However, if we are talking about fast work, then this will not work. This option is only suitable if a specialist has taken up the matter.

A masterful approach is indispensable. In order for the work to be successful, it is important to use the following tool:

specially for kneading work - large capacity;
for direct work - a small capacity;
a drill with a mixer attachment;
for plastering polishers;
trowel;
from plastic and metal graters;
different sizes of spatula;
having a stiff pile, flat brushes (one of them is a mackerel);
rigid sponge;
a roller that has a pattern to create relief on the walls.

As you go along, you may need more tools, but these will be enough to get you started. The main thing is to purchase everything in advance, so as not to be distracted from work later. Find out about decorative panels for brick, for interior wall decoration.

Preparing the walls

We are preparing the base for a strong future decorative composition. It is worth remembering that it is quite possible to apply decorative plaster to plaster. The only question is how well the preparation of the walls is done. Let's talk more about the stages of working with plaster.

The first thing we start is to remove all unnecessary on the basis. When you come to the plaster layer, make sure that it does not fall off over time. Each case is individual and it is worth deciding for yourself whether to remove the plaster completely.

How do you determine which is best for you?

Take a heavy hammer and start tapping the entire surface. Determine if material starts to crumble or remains in place. Also identify possible voids with a characteristic sound.... If all this is not there, then you can safely apply decorative plaster on the old plaster.

Now it is important to determine the state of the surface. Look for cracks, crevices, or any other defect in it. Using a cement compound, or, fill all these voids. Once you have applied the curing compound, prime all walls with a penetrating agent.

This will require about two coats of primer, but no less. Before applying the next coat, stop and wait about 5 hours for the material to dry completely.

After these steps, the first primer coat is applied to the walls. The thickness of this plaster should be 20 mm. Thanks to this approach, the base will be reliable, and the entire surface will be flat. It is important that any large swings are eliminated. In some cases instead of basic plastering, putty is applied.

Moreover, when the material dries, it is not sanded, because adhesion will decrease. This applies to the processing of drywall. What about the different types of walls? How is plaster applied to them? Wood and the material created with its use are hygroscopic. He will tell you about the price of putty walls under the wallpaper.

During work, the putty may begin to soak at the base and deform. Also, the plaster drying mode itself will be violated. Therefore, if you decide to process wooden walls, then use a primer that contains components that protect against moisture.

If the surface is rough (plastic or plywood), use a coarse abrasive. After all, without this, the plaster will begin to creep from it. And what about the metal elements that you come across during repairs? If you use a decorative compound for treatment, then over time, rust stains will appear on them..

What to do? Use an anti-corrosion coating and you will avoid unpleasant moments.

Varieties of structural compositions

Consider splashing a "fur coat". We have determined what will be suitable for the base of plaster for decoration, but now it is important to determine what finishing technology we will use. Structural coatings are easier to apply than others. It is worth starting with them.

"Fur coat" is one of the types of decorative coatings. He is quite popular, and is based on a cement-sand mortar. We mix everything 1 to 3. That is, we put about 3 parts of sand on 1 part of cement. Now we apply everything to the walls using some splashes.

There is a special plastering machine that facilitates the plastering process. After all, its work is based on the fact that the resulting pressure begins to eject the solution. In this case, the mixture sticks to the walls and the necessary relief appears on them.

What to do when you don't have a car and nowhere to take it? Then a simple broom will do. To do this, take it with your right hand and start dipping it into the solution. Take the amount you need, but not much. When the broom is brought closer to the surface, then they need to hit the stick (it was held in the other hand). Also read how to make a dry floor screed with your own hands.

Another technique is also interesting. Using a brush. To do this, you need to take it with a long nap. Put some mortar on it. Now run the board over it. Make an effort and slide it towards you. When the bristles are straightened, the solution will reach the surface in the required small amount.

Another thing that can be applied is a metal mesh placed on a wooden frame. For this, the structure is attached to the wall and leveled. Nestled with bricks. Now, using a trowel, the solution is poured onto the surface. Remove the mesh and then correct any possible defects.

Smooth down the wall with a brush.

We use mineral granules

It is quite simple to apply such formulations. Among them, one of the most popular is the "bark beetle". This type of plaster in appearance looks like wood, which is damaged by insects. It is easy and not difficult to apply the composition. To do this, it is necessary to prepare and level the walls in advance using the composition of the plaster.

We apply a decorative mixture to them. In this case, you need a grater. Its holding angle is about 60 towards the wall. Do not make the applied layer thicker than the largest grain in the composition. This is important to adhere to. When you have already applied the mixture, then dry the wall. Knauf will tell you about the consumption of putty per 1 m2.

And as soon as you notice that your hands have ceased to stick to the surface, you can proceed to decorative plaster. We take a plastic grater and attach it completely to the wall. Press a little and move on.

When movement occurs, the grains begin to move and at the same time leave furrows on the walls.This is how a beautiful drawing appears. The process is not over yet. It is important after the final work (drying and processing) to paint the surface with pigments on acrylic.

Features of textured plaster

This type of surface is somewhat different from the previous one. Than? It is important that the person who does this has a certain skill in his business. After all, the processing technique does not entirely affect the result. Relief in this case looks like painting or sculpture.

Therefore, if you decide to use this option, then practice in advance to understand how best to handle the given material. It is important to apply the base coats first. Of course, the work is applied to the leveled surface. The base of the first layer is a couple of millimeters thick.

This will ensure adhesion. This is the background for the future design. It is worth paying attention to one detail. Since the material is applied to the base in a small layer, it is important to paint it in advance in the color you need. To do this, a pigment is introduced into the plaster for application and mixed.

It is necessary to thoroughly dry the base until the tools no longer leave marks when they are slightly pressed to the surface. Now you need to use a spatula to apply several strokes to the surface.

Use very little mixture, especially if you are just getting started.

Application layer thickness should be thin - about 3 mm. And at the end this thickness is half a millimeter. How you direct your strokes will affect how you get the drawing. If it is a Venetian finish, then send them in a chaotic manner. But if it is "rain", then make diagonal movements and apply the markings first.

Brushes can be used as an alternative to spatulas and floats... Then we apply a greasy plaster to the base and begin to level it with a float. In the end, you need to process everything with a hard brush. Thanks to the traces that remain from the bristles, an interesting relief will turn out on the wall.

Another interesting technique can be applied. Using polyethylene film. No special trick is needed here. Polyethylene is glued to the pre-applied 2 mm layer. There should be many folds in it. We are waiting for the material to dry.

After a couple of hours the film is peeled off and an unusual embossed pattern is obtained, but there is a tip. Do not abruptly remove the film, because the coating will be damaged in this case. But also do not overexpose the film. After all, this way its parts will dry to the base, and the plaster will come off with it. Find out about the finishing putty for exterior, facade work in.

The use of the roller is suitable for those who are not confident in their abilities... Get a special roller. Thanks to its protrusions and depressions, a pattern is formed. It is imprinted on the still uncured plaster. So her appearance will be very beautiful. The use of a regular paint roller is also acceptable.

However, to do this, you need to pluck out the pile from it. You can also wrap the working part with a cord or other tool to create folds.

Output

Summing up, we can say that decorative plaster can be freely applied to plaster. The disadvantages include the need for additional wall treatment, preparation of the surface for applying a new layer of plaster, as well as checking the strength of the old layer of plaster.

The advantages include saving time for removing the old layer of plaster and financial costs for additional work.

Decorative plaster, as well as, with the correct preparation of the walls and the ability to apply it, is easy to apply and becomes a beautiful part of your interior. Moreover, it will be very durable and practical, but on condition that it is applied in compliance with all the conditions described.

The concept of "decorative plaster" combines many different building mixtures for finishing the walls of premises. This includes flock, and Venetian plasters, and liquid wallpaper, and plasters that imitate various surfaces and structures, for example, natural stone or wood. The addition of solid particles to the mixture during application gives an interesting and original pattern. Also, such plasters can be mixed with dyes of the desired shades.

When using decorative plaster for wall decoration, as a rule, it becomes the finish. Its appearance makes it possible to create any style of interior without resorting to use or additional materials.

The process of applying plaster itself is quite simple, if you strictly follow the instructions for its preparation and know a few simple secrets. In addition, it is a creative process that allows you to show your artistic abilities and give the premises a unique look.

Before proceeding with the application of the plaster itself, it is necessary to prepare the surface of the walls. It should be cleaned of old wallpaper or loose ball, carefully leveled and sanded. Dust on the walls must be completely removed with a brush. After cleaning the surface, it is primed. The primer can be used as an ordinary or impregnating primer. In the first case, it is applied with a spatula, in the second - with a roller or a wide brush.

While the primer on the walls dries, you can start preparing the decorative plaster. It is usually sold as a dry mix in plastic buckets of various sizes. To prepare it, you must strictly follow the instructions on the package. The preparation itself will not be difficult - as a rule, it is enough to place the mixture using a drill with a special nozzle. If you don't have a drill, you can use a piece of reinforcement or a wooden board.

Various dyes can also be added to the mixed plaster to obtain the desired shade. There are several ways to add dye. You can add it directly to a bucket with a mixture (ratio 1:10), only in the finishing compound, or dilute it with a mixture in proportions 1: 1 and apply it to the wall with a roller or sponge with chaotic strokes. While the first two options are standard application methods and result in a uniformly colored surface, the last option is more of a creative approach that takes more time but is worth it.

The plaster is applied to the wall with a trowel or trowel. The plaster layer ranges from 2 to 5 mm. Due to the fact that the surface was pre-leveled and impregnated with a primer, the plaster lays down evenly, is not absorbed by the pores of the walls. For plastering, it is convenient to use a wide tool that allows you to cover a large area.

Different textures can be obtained depending on the composition of the mixture and the method of application. The mixture can be applied with a spatula, moving up and down, or in a circular motion. You can also experiment with different tools for applying the mixture.

Using a large, hard-bristled brush, for example, will shape the texture into waves.

Repeating reliefs are created using toothed trowels or rollers and various dies.

To obtain non-standard reliefs, you can also use materials at hand. A crumpled plastic bag, which is pressed against the not yet dried layer of the mixture, gives the effect of a "lunar surface".

After application, decorative plaster can dry from 8 hours to two days, depending on the thickness of the applied layer. After drying, the surface of the walls is lightly sanded with fine-grained emery paper to remove sharp edges of the relief and cleaned of dust.

The last step is to apply the finishing protective compound. It must be chosen depending on the type of plaster. Some experts use a special wax instead, which protects the plaster layer from moisture.

Video on how to apply decorative plaster

I propose to visually see the process of applying decorative plaster and the device of various textured patterns in the video tutorial.

Examples of interiors with decorative plaster

Decorative plaster together with firmly holds the palm among finishing materials. Using natural materials and traditional technologies dIY decorative plaster saves up to 80% of finishing costs or allows you to start a highly profitable small business: the components are cheap and the work is difficult and expensive.

Another important advantage is a huge wealth of colors, textures and reliefs, roughly equivalent in terms of labor intensity and cost. The picture shows only a small part of the available textures, each of which also has varieties, and may vary depending on the method of application. In the interior, decorative plaster gives freedom of design: you just need to say what surface is needed, and the craftsmen will do it, so long as the customer does not require a different type of finish.

People with artistic talent can only plaster, see next pic. A skilled craftsman can achieve the effect of the full presence of the present in the fictional, as in fig. left. But, of course, before taking on such work, you need to fully master the entire technology and feel the material to the finest nuances.

Finally, there are many polymer-based ready-to-use mixtures on the market that are durable, resistant and designed for different temperature and humidity conditions. Although they are not cheap, the technology for applying industrial decorative plaster is not difficult, a careful laborious leveling of the underlying surface is not required, so in general, finishing with decorative plaster may be cheaper than ordinary plaster, followed by wallpapering and painting.

So what is it made of, this wonderful material? Can you do it yourself? How to work with him?

It is not difficult to make decorative plaster yourself from natural components, you only need neatness and a simple tool. Ready-made polymer-based mixtures require industrial manufacturing technology, but it is easier to decorate the walls with them than to plaster for wallpaper or painting. Working with decorative plaster is not technically difficult, but the most accurate robot will not cope with it: you need a certain amount of artistic taste.

And most importantly, we are not talking about one material, but about many types and varieties. The main ones will be described in this article, but first of all - about the composition and its components. Then - preparatory work, and only then - for the case.

Composition and components

Decorative plaster for interior work consists of a filler that gives the general tone, strength and durability, pigment (color), structural (modeling) elements, surface or volume, and a binder that holds it all together in a monolith. To increase the surface resistance, the finished coating is glazed - a hardening composition is introduced into a thin surface layer.

Excipients

The most common filler was and remains pure fine white river sand or finely ground quartz sand. For real Venetian plaster (see below), it is partially or completely replaced with marble flour. Synthetic self-forming fillers are becoming more and more common (when the plaster dries, it shrinks into a unique relief), but mixtures with them are produced only industrially and sold ready-made.

Pigments

The mixtures impart color (tint) with mineral and organic synthetic pigments. Natural organic pigments (cochineal, indigo) in plaster fade quickly. The pigment can be in the form of a powder, then it is introduced into the filler before mixing; pasty and liquid pigments are added to the ready-to-use mixture.

To create any color, in principle, red, green and blue are sufficient - the main basic colors, but the plaster itself does not glow, its color is created by subtracting additional colors from the reflected white. In colorimetry, this method of coloring is called subtractive.

Therefore, to get clean and / or deep tones, additional colors are needed: yellow, blue (turquoise), purple (lilac, violet), and key color; with a white backing, the key is the black... There are more than enough synthetic pigments of any color on sale, and the following minerals for natural plaster can be recommended:

Red - red ocher, calcined hematite, red cadmium. Cinnabar is by no means a mercury compound! Cadmium is also toxic, but not volatile, chemically resistant and does not migrate from the plaster layer.
Yellow - yellow ocher, orpiment, yellow red lead.
Green - malachite (ground), pseudomalachite, kerchenite, green chrome, brilliant green in powder.
Blue - blue (next item) mixed with zinc or titanium white; azurite and dioptase are expensive.
Blue - lapis lazuli (lapis lazuli), cobalt blue, vivianite (mineral indigo).
Violet - calcined lapis lazuli, manganese oxides. Pharmacy potassium permanganate is not suitable, and not at all because of the regulated turnover: it is chemically aggressive (strong oxidizing agent), actively migrates.
Brown - dark ocher, red lead iron.
The black - gas soot, charcoal.

Notes:

Violet, purple and magenta; blue with turquoise - visually different colors. But they belong to the same area of \u200b\u200bthe spectrum - mixing them with yellow, you can get the same red or green, only the ratio of the components will be different.

Gas soot is not scraped out of the chimney. It is sold precisely as a pigment in hardware and art stores.

In general, any mineral pigments for easel painting will go for decorative wall plastering, it's only a matter of price. There is a difference - to paint an icon, which will then be bought for several thousand dollars, or to finish two dozen squares, keeping within the family budget. For gloss, metal powders are used as a pigment.

Organic pigments are cheaper than many mineral pigments; they can be iridescent (pearl, metallic) and fluorescent (self-luminous after exposure to the Sun). But keep in mind - there is no organic matter that would not burn out for decades, not to mention centuries, and, in principle, cannot exist. The highest UV resistance achieved to date is 80 years at a coating price of $ 4 per square inch.

Modeling elements

To form a textured surface, various flakes, fibers, granules, up to gold balls are introduced into the mixture or sprayed onto the finished coating. This will be discussed in more detail in the description of the types of plasters, but it is important to know: mineral plaster mixtures are structured very poorly. You either need to follow proven recipes exactly, or have a lot of experience in order to experiment yourself.

Binder

For plaster use mineral and organic polymer binders. The former are not very sticky, but they have been tested for centuries and are cheap; the second - firmly adhere to anything except clean glass, polished metal, polyethylene and fluoroplastic, stretch well when dried, but expensive and less than 100 years old.

Mineral

Cement and simple gypsum are not used for decorative plaster: the former gives a too rough surface and a dirty color tone, and the latter is fragile. There are mixtures on the market based on gypsum modified with polymer additives, but their reliability has not yet been tested for centuries.

Natural decorative plaster is most often made on a lime test. It is cheap, strong, durable, allows the use of a variety of decorative techniques, but its adhesion capacity is low, so a good, and rather laborious, surface preparation is required. The relief can only be obtained by molding on a wet or stencil - not plastic, not stretching.

Sometimes, for those not particularly responsible for design, but requiring increased durability of coatings (for example, in the hallway), they take a plaster on a liquid glass binder - silicate. It is durable, sticks well, but is rough, and not every pigment can be introduced into it.

For particularly critical cases, a magnesian binder is taken: caustic magnesite (magnesium oxide) MgO, mixed with an aqueous solution of magnesium chloride MgCl2. The components are caustic, separately dangerous, the mixture must be prepared immediately before use, strictly observing the rules of chemical technology, but the plaster comes out extremely strong and moisture resistant.

Organic

The main organic binders are acrylic resin and silicone, which is already organosilicon. And that, and another perfectly sticks and stretches. Acrylic is much cheaper; the price of the finished coating is comparable to that of the mineral water; layer thickness - up to 12 mm. Silicone is very expensive, but it allows you to make convex bas-reliefs, high-reliefs and even a round sculpture.

Mixes

The standard composition of plaster mixes for interior decoration is as follows:

filler - 3 parts by weight;
binder - 1 part by weight;
pigment - 2-12% by weight of the mixture according to the results of blooming, see below;
modeling additives - using a secret proprietary technology or the results of our own unique experience.

Note: up to 80-90% filler with pigment can be added to plaster on an acrylic binder, as for liquid stone. The wall for such plaster should be prepared as under a Venetian one on an acrylic substrate, see below, and still limit yourself to 4 parts of the filler with pigment per 1 part of the binder - the plaster is not a countertop, it does not lie, but hangs on the wall.

Color

Decorating walls with decorative plaster is unthinkable without trial paints. They are needed not only to select the tone and check the texture, but also to test the adhesion strength: after complete drying, the sample is turned upside down or placed on the priest and tapped on its back with the butt of a roller or spatula handle. If it does not fall off, it will stick to the wall.

Painting is done on a plywood board 0.5x0.5 m with a thickness of 8-20 mm. Plywood is needed without impregnation, the simplest one, on casein glue, from softwood or birch. It is impossible to replace plywood with drywall or other board materials: it is plain plywood on casein that holds the plaster in the same way as a prepared wall.

Note: plywood for fading needs not exfoliated and new, not dusty and not captured. Dust and grease dramatically reduce the adhesive susceptibility of the substrate.

Glazing

Glazing is the final operation of decorative plaster. Its purpose is to give surface resistance to relief and / or painting. The traditional way of glazing old mineral plasters is with beeswax: a piece of wax is traced across the surface, then rubbed with a horny sponge, thin felt or rawhide polish.

glaze wax

Glazing wax is a laborious and demanding operation. Wax is applied and rubbed multiple times, and at the same time, you must not erase the relief or wipe the drawing. Suffice it to say that the quality of glazing in the old days was checked by putting a palm to the opposite side of the wall: it had to heat through from friction heating.

Nowadays, they are glazed either with transparent acrylic varnish - it easily penetrates into the surface layer of any plaster - or with special single-use glazing compounds; they are simply applied with a roller or brush. But there is a nuance: if a ready-made mixture is used, then you need to glaze with the composition of the same manufacturer, and intended specifically for this mixture. It is physically impossible to check for compatibility of all plaster products on the market.

I must say that some manufacturers shamelessly use this circumstance for their own selfish purposes: the mixture seems to be inexpensive, but glaze for it ... no words, one original Russian abnormality. Therefore, when choosing a ready-made mixture, be sure to read in the FIRM's instructions how it is recommended to glaze it, and ask how much it costs. In extreme cases, acrylic varnish has not yet ruined any plaster.

Video: an example of glazing in the video of a varnish manufacturer

Tool

To work on decorative plaster, in addition to the usual plastering tool, you will also need a special one: textured rollers, stamps, a rubbing sponge, see Fig. A set of notched trowels will also not hurt, especially if a modern clone design is intended.

Rolls and dies must, firstly, be soft-elastic, otherwise not a unique relief will turn out, but rolling with a roll. Secondly, they should not stick with the mixture. For permanent use, it is better to get Teflon or polyester coated rollers - they are durable. For a one-time amateur work, it is better to purchase cheap plastic ones.

Special mention should be made of sponges for rubbing. The luxury finishes are still rubbed with natural sea horn sponges; they go on sale as "coral", although the sponge is not coral at all, and are expensive. Two types of horny sponges are obtained: toilet and horse. The first is softer, goes to the final grout, and the second, coarser - to the rough one.

However, practice shows that horny sponges can be successfully replaced by an ordinary two-layer kitchen sponge for dishes. Its hard fibrous side is used for rough grinding, and with a soft foam rubber - for finishing. A kitchen sponge on plaster wears out very quickly, but it costs a penny.

Preparing the walls

Preparation of walls for decorative plaster is carried out in the following order:

Cracks close up.
durable cement putty.
by a falcon in weight WITHOUT LIGHTHOUSES, even water ones; perfect evenness, as for painting or wallpaper, does not need to be achieved - the decor will hide minor flaws.
Thoroughly dedust with a dry cloth, then sucked out with a vacuum cleaner with a dust collector.
Under all plasters, except for Venetian ones, they are primed with a deep penetration primer over stone or plaster.
For Venetian plaster - make a substrate with sand, see below.

Lighthouses in the base plaster cannot be used for the following reason: the base layer may not be very even, but must be perfectly uniform. The sealed grooves from the distant beacons, the dried out directed beacons violate this uniformity, which in a couple of years will lead to the peeling of the decor.

It is better to take the base plaster on warm on expanded vermiculite. Foam, etc. not strong, and in decorative plaster, like nowhere else, you need to observe the immutable finishing principle: the strong and heavy should not fall on the light and the weak.

Why do we need warm plaster? The decor is inherently heterogeneous, which is why it is sensitive to a temperature gradient (temperature difference) across the layer thickness. Load-bearing walls are now being built more of silicate bricks and concrete, which have a fairly high thermal conductivity, because of which, with sudden changes in weather, the gradient can go beyond the acceptable range. If the box is made of ceramic bricks, then they are heating now not with stoves, but with radiators, and they do not make meter-thick walls, which can give the same result.

Venetian lining

The application of natural Venetian plaster requires considerable physical effort, and replacing the sand with marble dust reduces the adhesion of the mixture. In addition, for the Venetian to show itself in all its glory, the substrate under it must reflect light with shine.

The old way of priming under the Venetian style is painting with lead or zinc whitewash (tutia) in linseed oil mixed with fine quartz sand and ground pearls that have lost their value and age. Now the base surface under the Venetian is painted with pearl acrylic paint, also with the addition of sand, to improve adhesion due to roughness.

How much sand do you need? Approximately 5-15% by weight. The test on the nail is accurately determined by the dried paint: the nail should go easily and smoothly, and a uniformly rough white speck should remain on it. If individual scratches are visible, there is little or too coarse sand. If it slows down, like on sandpaper, there is a lot of sand.

Can I prime the old way? Not recommended. First, there is no point in replacing pearls with cheaper, but still expensive, pearl stalemate: stalemate is made from the scales of small herring fish - sprat, sprat, herring, kibinago - and by its physicochemical properties it is not pearl at all. Secondly, a city apartment is not a family nest. Sometime there will be repairs again, and the oil absorbed into the wall will show itself as stains on the wallpaper or paint, and it is very difficult to get rid of them.

How to work

The methods of applying decorative plaster are somewhat different from them for the usual one, and include additional operations: tinting, modeling, rubbing, glazing. It has already been said about glazing; how to make a Venetian will be discussed further below. Here we will talk about general handmade techniques. Mechanized methods: spraying to get icicles on the ceiling, etc. - the subject of a separate conversation.

There is one more significant difference: decorative can and should be done in multi-layer, for artistic effect. She shouldn't bear anything else on herself, and glazing will strengthen her. There can be up to 15 layers or more, as the material allows: the thickness of the finished coating along the relief depressions should not exceed 6 mm. Layers can be either solid or piecewise, but always wet on wet. Let the previous one have already begun to set, but it should be wet in appearance and to the touch.

Application

The finished "decorative" must be applied, of course, not with a falcon and the rule of the lighthouses, but with a wide spatula on the weight. The mixtures are quite viscous, it is more convenient to pull the spatula with both hands, and small irregularities do not matter, because no further finishing is expected.

The spatula, even or notched, is pulled from bottom to top in vertical or oblique stripes. Unlike the usual one, it is permissible, for the sake of heightening the aesthetic effect, to be applied with rays at random or with a drive to the center. The spatula is pulled with small grooves, swinging across; this will make the mixture stick better to the wall.

Tinting

The applied layer can be tinted (tinted) on top by applying a thin layer of the same mixture with a shaggy roller or a flute brush, but with an additional color scheme and diluted water. It can be tinted both wet on wet, for modeling, and already set, but still wet, for rubbing.

Molding

Sculpting (which can be done with rollers, stamps, or simply with your finger in a latex glove) does more than create relief. Modeling the wet tinted layer accelerates the pigment to the top of the relief, which already gives some color transition.

Rubbing

Rubbing the layer is done for the following:

With a roughing sponge - under the next layer.
With her rough and finishing - to shade the color applied by spots.
With a falcon or a spatula on a barely grasped relief - to smooth its tops into one level and highlight it with color; this is how they grind plaster like bark beetle.

Stenciled plaster

Semantic images with plaster can be made using a stencil 1.5-4 mm thick. The stencil layer can be either final or intermediate. If the previous layer is even, it is easier to make a stencil from cardboard; if embossed - from foam or soft rubber. The mixture is rubbed into the stencil with a narrow spatula or driven in with an end brush. To highlight by color, rub the slightly dried pattern, or vice versa, rub a color scheme into it with a sponge.

Video: applying decorative plaster on a stencil

About drying

Decorative plaster is dried in a ventilated room only in a natural way. Exposure to direct sunlight is unacceptable: in addition to covering open windows with gauze or tulle, you need to arrange a temporary visor above the window or shade screens inside. It is unacceptable to accelerate drying in any way, except for separate areas for craquelure, see below.

You can open your creation for viewing in a day in clear weather or two in cloudy weather, and use the room in a week. It takes 2 to 12 hours for the next layer to set, depending on the type of plaster and temperature. 15 hours after application, the layer is considered unsuitable for wet on wet work. This is either the finish line, or the whole work is ruined.

Types of plasters

The types of decorative plaster, with all their diversity, are not so difficult to classify, based on the final result:

Venetian - can be considered the progenitor of all others.
Stucco (reviewed earlier).
Refined plasters (fibrous).
Textured.
Structural.
Flock plaster.
Modeling plasters.

Venetian

Venetian plaster was invented in ancient Rome. In ancient times, marble was a massive building material, from the processing of which a lot of waste remained. Practical Roman women ground it into dust and replace it with white sand, which is not so much in nature. Then they noticed that a thin layer was translucent, and began to apply in layers, carefully rubbing each layer (slave labor was cheap), which made it possible to obtain coatings that were almost translucent like real marble, but suitable for weak and curved walls. Applying piecewise layers with a filler of colored ground stone, travertine and other facing materials were imitated.

Perfected the Venetian technology in the 16th century. one of the titans of the Renaissance, the greatest architect of the West, Andrea Palladio. He was the first to create artistic images using the Venetian technique. Now the Venetian is reborn, aided by cheap prices for marble flour (mining companies are vying with each other) and the emergence of inexpensive and low-labor-intensive acrylic paints and varnishes for backing and glazing. The Venetian woman has been described many times and with knowledge of the matter, so we will reveal only some secrets.

Craquelure

The Venetian is often artificially aged, making fractures - craquelure. The technology is simple: the layer is covered with a special craquelure varnish (expensive). Freezing, it shrinks and pulls the plaster along with it.

There is a way to reduce the cost of craquelure and make it look more natural, without reducing the strength of the coating. But first you need to practice on the races:

The cracked area is dried, constantly visually controlling, with an infrared emitter with a reflector; an ancient electric fireplace bowl will work well.
Cracks are slightly outlined or earlier, depending on experience, the heating is stopped, the cracks will spread themselves.
A plaster compound tinted to black or dark gray with gas soot is rubbed into the cracks with a dental spatula; you can add dark red lead.
The rest of the filler is washed with a sponge.
A thin, translucent continuous layer without color is applied.

Video: a method of applying Venetian craquelure plaster

Carrara

Don't get carried away with colored spots. If you are not too lazy to apply 10-12 layers, and you already have some skill, take pure white marble flour on lime with a filler, and polish it with wax, even a sophisticated connoisseur will not immediately distinguish such a Venetian from the most exquisite Carrara marble, the deposits of which are now almost exhausted.

Veins

Darkish veins on natural marble are inclusions of bituminous marble. Their imitation is easy to obtain artificially: the next portion of the mixture is tinted with gas soot by 5-15%, smears are made with a curved medical spatula and rubbed with a sponge. The next continuous layer without color is required.

Video: a lesson on Venetian plaster

Wax

The Venetian has a serious drawback and at the same time a dignity: she breathes, i.e. hygroscopic. But even in the bathroom you sometimes want to make decorative plaster under some natural stone. Here the inventors turned out to be the French: someone came up with the idea of \u200b\u200badding 1 / 4-1 / 5 cellulose (plant) fibers, finely ground and boiled in wax, into the filler. This is how the Marseilles wax plaster appeared, in fig. on the left, completely waterproof.

Replacing cellulose with lignin from wood waste, we then obtained Andalusian wax (center), which is coarser in appearance, but also cheaper. Now all "wax" plasters for rooms with high humidity are made ready-to-use on acrylic; their collective name is mizuri-type plasters, on the right in Fig.

Video: example of Roman stone plaster

Fibrous

Italians again took the next step in increasing the strength and aesthetic qualities of plaster coatings. Instead of plant fibers, they used animals in the form of silk threads, obtaining a velvety plaster perfected, on the left in Fig. In modern times, the classic expensive perfected is again replaced with synthetics on acrylic, which is in no way inferior to it.

Ottochento's analog trademarks are velveton (center) and velvetex (right). What is the difference between them, the manufacturers themselves cannot really explain. In common opinion, it is believed that in velveton the fibrous additive is collected in more or less distinct conglomerates, and in velvex it is more or less evenly distributed. Both are sold ready-to-eat.

Textured

- invention of the era of high technology. In fact, this is no longer plaster, but liquid wallpaper: textured elements are introduced into the finished mixture during manufacture. Textured plaster is applied without features; the finished surface is flat. Most often, rubbing is not required. There are textured plasters that imitate Venetian, but they do not breathe.

The texture can be both chaotic (see the picture on the left), and regular, and even with a claim to expressiveness: leaves, flowers, butterflies, etc. Textured plasters are in a state of rapid evolution in the direction - splashed on the wall from a bucket, dried out, it turned out La Gioconda or Venus Botticelli.

Textured plasters are used, as a rule, in the kitchen and in other small rooms with a difficult temperature and humidity regime, but where a colorful, cheerful design is required: they are too expensive for finishing large areas, but absolutely hygienic and hygroscopic. They are not suitable for a bedroom and a nursery - they glare and do not breathe.

Structural

With structural plasters, there is some confusion in the definitions: some refer to them as any embossed plasters, incl. stucco and stencil (see the figure in the paragraph and at the beginning of the text); others consider only self-forming ready-to-use, i.e. those that acquire a random unique relief when dry. We adhere to the second point of view, because the technology of applying both of them is very different: some need to be adjusted by hand in the presence of a fairly developed artistic taste, while others are simply spread with a spatula, and the end result does not in any way depend on the will and desire of the master.

Self-forming ready-made plasters are manufactured under industrial conditions, but the choice is unusually rich, and the range is constantly expanding. They are made on acrylic with synthetics, suitable for interior decoration of any premises.

Running textures - bark beetle (second and third from the left), terraco, the extreme right - cheaper due to the mineral filler; are obtained by rolling with a roller and grouting along the top with a spatula. Structural plasters can be easily supplemented with stencil plasters, because the relief is low.

Video: structural plastering

Flock

Flock in German is snowflake. Flocks (not ice, of course) are sprayed with a special spray on the plastered surface covered with glue, see on the left in Fig. When the glue dries, poorly adhered flocks are brushed off with a brush or brush and, also from a spray bottle, acrylic varnish is applied. Flocks, adhesives and underlays are sold ready-to-use in sets or individually. In this case, on the packaging of flocks it is indicated with which underlying plaster and on which adhesive they are compatible.

Some craftsmen make flocks themselves, throw in handfuls and blow, as soon as the glue begins to set, with a strong narrow jet of air from a vacuum cleaner to gently press down. Homemade flock plaster works well only on an acrylic base; they adhere weakly to silicone or mineral flocks.

Modeling

Modeling plasters are, in essence, a kind of flock: foreign granules are introduced into the ready-to-use mixture during its manufacture. By varying the composition of the mixture, size, material and shape of the granules, coatings are obtained "lamb", under a fur coat, "orange peel", "rain", etc., see the previous page. fig. Application technique - conventional or spraying.