Creative project of a chess table from an old table. Presentation of the creative project "making a chess table"
Introduction
Project formulation and analysis
Information sheet
Marketing research
Search for alternative project options
Product appearance
Material used
Finish options
Economic evaluation of the product
Design part
Technical drawing of a chess table
Technological part
Safety
Routing
Analysis of project work
Finished product evaluation
Literature
Substantiation of the project idea
I have a friendly family. My father and mother are teachers at the Yasnaya Polyana Gymnasium, where I study. Our family spends a lot of time together: we relax, read, talk, play chess, receive guests, make crafts and improve our house together. My dad is a first-class carpenter, he constantly creates interesting things from wood with his own hands: souvenirs, pieces of furniture (benches, shelves, stools, etc.). These things give our home comfort and individuality. I really wanted to learn this skill too. In technology lessons, we have already learned how to create simple wood crafts. And I had an idea.
Our family loves to play chess very much, we have several chess boards, we usually sit somewhere on the sofa or at the table, but there is no special chess table. My idea is to make such a table out of oak myself. The knowledge and skills gained in technology lessons will be quite enough for me to implement my idea. Moreover, quite recently, my classmates and I made oak benches for elementary school students in our gymnasium at technology lessons.
Information sheet
There are hundreds of the most ordinary things around us, about which we know almost nothing. Only the most inquisitive and inquisitive things can tell their story. And for this, very little is needed: you just need to think, ask, find. Every thing, like a person, has its own biography, its own amazing fate. And every thing carries a piece of our history. Life will be interesting and not boring if we ask as many questions as possible and look for answers to them. Even if you learn something new every day, the questions will not disappear. On the contrary, there will be more and more of them.
Table history
The table was the first furniture that ancient people acquired. 
In ancient Rome, the table was the most important decoration of the house. Heavy, made of marble or wood, decorated with carvings, it rested on low legs, similar to lion's paws. Around the table, reclining on the floor on soft pillows, rich Romans feasted. There were no chairs back then.
And among the ancient Greeks, on the contrary, the tables were very small, on three legs. Such a table was called a meal, so a festive dinner, a feast is sometimes called a meal. A table - a meal during a feast was attached to a bed - a low sofa with a headboard. After the end of the feast, the table was pushed under the bed.
In Russia, in the old days, tables were made wide, stable, on four legs. He was placed in the "red corner" - the most honorable place in the house. The table was moved to benches - benches that stood along the walls. The table top - the tabletop - in rich houses was covered with a tablecloth, and in poor houses it was scraped and washed clean. 
Chess
Chess (from Persian shah - sovereign and Arabic mat - died) is a game rich in elements of wrestling, scientific thinking and artistic creativity. The game of chess takes place on a square board, states of 64 fields, colored and alternating in light and dark colors; on the right and the player should be a bright field. Each of the two partners has 8 main pieces (king, queen, 2 rooks, 2 knights, 2 bishops) placed in their initial position on the extreme horizontal row of the board, and 8 pawns lining up in front of them. Moves are made in turn; the goal of the game is to checkmate the enemy king, that is, to attack him in such a way that there is no defense against this attack. If one side does not have a single possible move and the king is not in check (i.e., under attack), then a stalemate is obtained and the game is considered to end in a draw.
Chess originated in the East, apparently in India, in ancient times. The first mention of chess (the so-called. chat rank ) in India dates back to the 6th c. At first, the game was slow, the pieces were mostly inactive. As we moved from East to West, chess underwent changes. Over time, the queen and the layers acquired range, the pawns began to move (from the initial position) not only one, but another two squares forward.
The first mention of chess in Russia dates back to the 13th century. (in the Pilot's Book), but they were known, apparently, already in the 11th century. (based on archaeological excavations in Novgorod).
The centers of chess life in the cities of Europe in the 18th century. and partly in the 19th century. there were coffee houses, later chess clubs. In Russia, interest in chess was shown by A. S. Pushkin, N. G. Chernyshevsky, I. S. Turgenev, L. N. Tolstoy.
The chess club was first opened in St. Petersburg (1853). Later the clubs united into societies and national unions.
Yasnaya Polyana
In 2008, the 180th anniversary of the birth of the great Russian writer of classical literature and our countryman, Leo Tolstoy, was celebrated. 
Yasnaya Polyana is known throughout the world as a monument to the immortal glory of the genius of Russian classics Leo Tolstoy. For the writer, Yasnaya Polyana was not only a place of life, but a creative laboratory.
In 1921, by the Decree of the All-Russian Central Executive Committee, Yasnaya Polyana was turned into a museum-reserve.
During the Great Patriotic War, the Nazis managed to capture Yasnaya Polyana. For a month and a half of occupation, they managed to plunder and ruin the estate. The Nazis set fire to Tolstoy's house. 
Soviet troops liberated Yasnaya Polyana on December 14, 1941. Already in May 1942, Tolstoy's house was opened to visitors.
At present, the museum-estate of L.N. Tolstoy "Yasnaya Polyana" is one of the largest memorial museums in the world. It is a complex complex consisting of Tolstoy's house, Volkonsky's house, a literary museum, an estate, which houses forests of extraordinary beauty, meadows, parks, gardens, buildings that have survived from the time of L.N. Tolstoy and his family. 
Many years later, the museum-estate was headed by a descendant of the writer - the great-grandson of V. I. Tolstoy. With his arrival, an even greater transformation of the memorial began.
Not far from the museum, on the former Kubatskaya Gora, there is a white two-story building of the Yasnaya Polyana Gymnasium No. 2 named after L.N. Tolstoy, where I was lucky to study. It was built in 1928, when the whole world celebrated the centenary of the birth of Lev Nikolayevich. In 2008, the memorial gymnasium celebrated its 80th anniversary. 
Marketing research
I analyzed the problems that buyers face when purchasing home furnishings in the goods market and found:
Furniture made from laminated chipboard is distinguished by a variety of models, affordable prices, but less original and durable,
Furniture made of natural wood is much less common on the market, it is highly durable and reliable, but unfortunately it has a high price, and this is practically inaccessible to families with an average income.
If we talk specifically about a coffee or chess table, then the price for it fluctuates: from laminated chipboard from 3-5 thousand rubles, and from oak - from 7 to 12 thousand rubles.
Search for alternative project options
Starting to develop the project, I consulted with the technology teacher Alexander Valentinovich. Together we defined the design requirements:
Environmental friendliness
Color solution
Preparation time
Unity of style
Availability of materials
There are various options for implementing my idea.
Idea 1 – round chess table on one leg.
Idea 2 – square chess table with four legs.
Idea 3 – chess table on one leg.
Perhaps I will focus on idea 3. I think that a square-shaped chess table will allow you to conveniently place the chess field on the surface of the tabletop, and one leg will allow players and fans to comfortably fit around the table - it will be very convenient. On both sides, I will add a little free field in order to make it convenient to arrange the “eaten” chess pieces.
Product appearance
Material used
For the manufacture of a chess table, I choose a natural tree - oak.
Consider the positive and negative aspects of this material: it is durable, looks beautiful in the product, but it is difficult to process with cutting tools, there are defects - knots, oblique, cracks, wormholes.
Finish options
There are various options for finishing wood products. I choose - staining the table with stain and varnishing.
Economic evaluation of the product
In the manufacture of table parts you will need:
pine board thickness. 45 mm 0.5 sq.m. ,
oak board thickness. 30 mm 0.3 sq.m,
oak logs (firewood) - price 500 rubles / cubic meter
The price of 1 sq.m of board 45 mm is 500 rubles (pine). The price of 1 sq.m of oak board 30 mm is 700 rubles. The cost of the required pine material can be calculated as follows:
C1 \u003d 0.5x500 \u003d 250 rubles.
The cost of material from an oak board:
C2 \u003d 0.3x700 \u003d 210 rubles.
Baluster cost:
C3 \u003d 0.02x500 \u003d 10 rubles.
Total wood cost:
C \u003d C1 + C2 + C3 \u003d 250 + 210 + 10 \u003d 470 rubles.
To cover the product, you need 100 g of stain or 0.1 kg. The price of 1 kg of stain is 120 rubles. Mortar cost:
C \u003d 0.1x120 \u003d 12 rubles.
To cover the product with varnish, 0.3 kg of varnish is needed. The price of 1 kg of varnish is 200 rubles. Lacquer price:
C \u003d 0.3x200 \u003d 60 rubles.
For gluing the countertop, 0.1 kg of wood glue is required. Glue price - 200 rubles. glue cost:
C \u003d 0.1x200 \u003d 20 rubles.
Table manufacturing time under artificial lighting - 6 hours. The power of the lamps in the workshop is 6x100W=600W=0.6kW. Lighting cost:
C \u003d 0.1x6x0.93 \u003d 0.558 \u003d 60 kopecks.
The total costs were:
С=470+12+60+20+0.6=RUB 562.6 .
Safety
when working on a wood lathe
Hazards at work
1. Injury to the eyes from flying chips.
2. Injury to the hands when they touch the workpiece.
3. Injury to the hands due to improper handling of the cutter.
4. Wounded by fragments of poorly glued, cross-layered, knotted wood.
Before work
1. Correctly put on overalls (an apron with sleeves or a dressing gown and a headdress: beret or scarf).
2. Check up reliability of fastening of a protective casing of a belt drive.
3. Check the reliability of the protective grounding (zeroing) fastening to the machine body.
4. Remove all foreign objects from the machine, place the tools in their designated places.
5. Check for knots and cracks in the workpiece, dress the workpiece to the desired shape, and then securely fix it in the rotating centers on the machine.
6. Install a tool rest with a gap of 2-3mm from the workpiece and fix it at the height of the center line of the workpiece.
7. Check the serviceability of the cutting tool and the correctness of its sharpening.
8. Check the operation of the machine at idle, as well as the serviceability of the starting box by turning its buttons on and off.
9. Put on protective goggles before starting work.
During work
1. Feed the cutting tool into the material only after the work shaft has reached full speed.
2. Feed the tool smoothly, without strong pressure.
3. Timely move the handpiece to the workpiece, do not allow the gap to increase.
4. To avoid injury while operating the machine:
a) do not tilt your head close to the machine;
b) do not accept or transfer items through a running machine;
c) measure the workpiece only after its rotation has completely stopped;
d) do not stop the machine by braking the workpiece by hand;
e) do not leave the machine without turning it off.
After finishing work
1. Stop the machine.
2. Put the tools in their places.
3. Remove chips from the machine with a brush. Do not blow off chips with your mouth, do not sweep them with your hand.
4. Hand over the machine to the teacher.
5. Clean yourself up.
Routing
| Work sequence | Image | Instruments fixtures |
|
| Planing workpieces countertop |
| square |
|
| Sawing blanks to size |
| ||
| Applying wood glue |
| ||
| Bonding and pressing |
| ||
| Cleaning and sanding the surface of the countertop |
| ||
| markup |
| square |
|
| Burning out the chess board |
| Burner for wood |
|
| Applying stain (walnut color) on the chessboard |
| ||
| Sanding pile after staining |
| ||
| Application of light stain (pine color) |
| ||
| Turning table legs on a lathe | Lathe |
||
| Fillet turning | Former |
||
| Sanding the surface of the leg with sandpaper | |||
| Form turning of the leg | Former |
||
| Staining table legs | stain brush |
||
| Marking the bottom support of the table | square |
||
| Making a template for legs from fiberboard | |||
| Making legs according to a template | Jigsaw chisel mallet |
||
| Grooving | File square mallet |
||
| Assembling the bottom of the table | square |
||
| Final assembly of the table | Screwdriver drill mallet ruler square |
Finished product evaluation
Positive aspects of the project:
Project goal achieved
Minimum financial costs
A piece of furniture made by hand is pleasing to the eye and uplifting
All technological operations are available
Allows the use of production waste
original design
Opens up huge opportunities for the development of my creativity
Eco-friendly material used
originality
Negative sides:
A lot of time spent on preparation and implementation of the project
Need adult help to make product
Will be able to make men who work with wood. The work is not very difficult, but rather time-consuming. The result will delight everyone! Such a table will come in handy at home or will be a great gift for any celebration.
For the first time, you can try to make a chess table with your own hands from any wood that is found in the house of the craftsmen. If you are confident in your abilities, have been doing woodwork for a long time, then you can use more expensive types of wood. Oak, plane tree and walnut are suitable for, which will be a great gift.
The chess table will look like a chessboard, under which there are 2 drawers for chess.
The drawers will surround the frames. Work begins with them. First, the frames are sawn out, and then they are fastened in folds, which are selected at the ends of the two side walls. When the four "strips" of wood are assembled into a rectangular box, two grooves for the plywood bottom are again selected on the side walls at a distance of about 4 mm from the bottom edges of the walls.
When the parts are prepared, they are assembled, glued, and the resulting box is pulled together with clamps and dried.
Next, drawers are made. First, the connections are cut out, which are known to the masters under the name "dovetail". Four grooves are made in the four walls of the drawers, into which the base (bottom of the drawers) is inserted. They are made according to the same principle as any box for a night table.
Another element of the craft will be the side - a narrow strip of wood 4-5 mm thick. This side is first attached to the side of the drawers, and then added to the other three sides of the table.
The side, washed down "on the mustache", must be glued in a small miter box.
Drawers can go on wooden "sleds" that are attached to the bottom of the product and extend flush with the edges of the two lower lintels of the frame of the entire box.
The boxes are inserted and a guide for them is glued. Then you need to attach limiters to the frames.
The lid, or chessboard, can be made in two ways. On a board 43 by 43 cm, you can burn out 5o squares, painting over those that are needed with a dark color. Next, the table is varnished several times. This option is suitable for the home.
A chalkboard would look great as a gift. All grooves in the squares are selected in the same direction exactly along the ruler. Groove depth - 2 mm.
The inserts are carefully glued together using a roller, which will remove excess glue. The lid is left to dry for several hours. The typed lid is sanded and polished, but before that, two small strips must be attached to the screws and glue from the bottom of the lid so that it does not “lead”. The screws should protrude from the inside of the side walls. Then the lid is dried further.
The lid is attached to the box, the table is assembled and decorated with edging around the edges.
The craft is covered with three layers of such a varnish that is suitable for a particular type of wood. After the table is polished with a grinder. You can even attach brass legs to the edges of the table for extra elegance. Next, the table is carefully waxed and polished until its gloss becomes matte.
This description can easily be understood by people whose profession or hobbies are connected with a tree. Those who find it more difficult to imagine the design can make a chess table by looking at any drawer, for example, a night table. The chess table is made in the same way as the top of the table in the bedroom. The difference lies only in the attached legs and carved sides of the craft, and the lid, as already mentioned, is easier not to type out of habit, but simply burn out and varnish.
Chess is one of my favorite board games! But this intellectual game will be even more interesting if it takes place on the surface of a high-quality and beautiful chess table! Most often, the body of the table, for playing chess, is made of walnut wood. The walls of the front drawers of the table are edged with walnut veneer, but their side walls are made of oak, and the bottom is made of plane tree. The chessboard itself on the top of the table is created from squares of white sycamore wood, as well as dark rosewood. Between these squares, special black inserts are inserted. But the side walls of the box are decorated with plane tree inserts. After the final polishing, all four types of wood organically complement each other. The result of such painstaking work is a very beautiful chess table!
Direct work process
First step. Frame assembly process
The frames that surround the two drawers of the table are assembled on half-wood joints, which are cut out by hand or by a router with a homemade fixture. After that, the assembled frames are attached in the folds that are created at the ends of the side walls. Then, when all four parts are assembled, you will need to make sure that a rectangular box has formed. Before the process of gluing parts on the side walls, approximately at a height of 4 millimeters from their lower edges, you need to make grooves 6 millimeters wide for the plywood bottom. Also, before assembly, in the side walls of the box, you need to mill grooves for plantain inlay strips.
When choosing long grooves for inlay inserts, you will need to accurately set the ruler and cutter. Short grooves must be milled along a ruler pressed against the wall. The depth of the grooves should be such that the inserts can protrude slightly above the surface of the side walls, and also to be able to clean them flush with sandpaper. Before attaching the inserts, their ends will need to be cut at right angles with a small, sharp chisel. After all the details and the bottom are prepared, you will need to glue the box and pull it together with clamps. Then you need to measure the diagonals and check the correctness of the assembly. After that, you need to leave the whole structure to dry.
Second phase. moldings
While the glue dries, you will need to make the moldings of the box and the chessboard. For this purpose, it is necessary to use two small cutters, namely a rounding one and a “gooseneck” (that is, an S-shaped one).
Table cover molding is created with the same cutters. But at the same time, its edge is rounded off with a small hand planer and a skin. Also, before sawing the parts of the molding “by the mustache”, it will be necessary to insert a narrow inlay bar into it.
Having created the moldings, it will be necessary to saw off the length of the four parts that frame the box. And before gluing in place, you need to file their ends “on the mustache”. While the glue has not yet hardened, it will be necessary to remove all excess of it, otherwise they will interfere with future polishing at the final stage of work!
Third stage. The process of manufacturing and installing boxes
The drawers of the chess table are created using a dovetail cutting tool. The front wall of the box is made of walnut wood with a “corolla”, walnut plywood. But the side walls are made of oak wood. After that, the base of sycamore wood is attached to small grooves made in all walls.
As the main decoration, as well as to protect the veneer, a small rim will need to be glued around the entire perimeter of the front wall. It will be a planed narrow strip, 4 mm thick, made of walnut wood.
Before sticking it in place, in a small miter box, the side will need to be sawed down “on the mustache”, and the edge of the edging will need to be cut under it with a chisel or a sharp knife.
Drawers can be pushed into openings on both sides of the box. That is, they will "walk" on oak sleds, which are glued to the plywood bottom and planed flush with the upper ribs of the lower lintels of the box frames.
After the boxes are in place, you will need to glue their guide, namely a 6 mm oak plank. Also, in order for the front walls of the drawers to be flush with the frames, you need to attach the limiters!
Fourth stage. Table top - chessboard
The chessboard is created from 50mm squares of sycamore and rosewood wood. These squares are glued onto 6 mm plywood with dimensions of 430 * 430 mm. Before sawing into squares, it is necessary to plan the strips of sycamore and rosewood to a width of 50 millimeters, and then need to be planed to a thickness of 3 millimeters. After that, it will be necessary to glue all the squares. Then, using an inlay cutter, you need to create all the grooves in the same direction. Each pass must be created exactly on the ruler! And even though the grooves are only 2 millimeters deep, it is best to create them in two passes.
The black inlay inserts need to be attached with adhesive to be applied to the bottom edge. Otherwise, excess glue will be squeezed out and thereby ruin the surrounding wood. This job is best done with a wallpaper roller! After the glue is completely dry, using sanding along the fiber, it will be necessary to sand the inserts flush with the sandpaper.
During the sanding of the inserts, very fine dust will be generated, which can very easily pollute the wood of the white sycamore! In order to avoid this, before creating the grooves, parts of the plane tree will need to be covered with two or three layers of shellac polish.
After the inserts have been ground in one direction, the same procedure will need to be repeated with the inserts that go in the other direction. At the intersection of the planks, the joints will need to be processed very carefully!
Having created a complete chessboard, it can also be polished. This is easiest to do before you start gluing the edging in place.
When the glue is completely dry, the plywood base can lead a little! In order to prevent this, two oak planks will need to be attached to the underside of the chessboard, using glue and screws. These planks should be placed in such a way that the screws screwed into the plywood protrude from the inside of the side walls of the box. If they are precisely planed to the thickness of the upper lintels of the frames, then they will serve as bumpers that will not allow the boxes to fall out in the open position.
The right front square above the drawer should be white. This will determine the direction of the fenders under the board. Having fully assembled the lid with the board, you will need to saw off the edging elements along the length, and then glue them in place.
Fifth stage. Finishing process
The created chess table must be covered with a mixture of 50/50 linseed oil with turpentine. Apply this mixture with a swab. This mixture will give a slight browning to the nut, but will not affect the inlay!
After the applied mixture is completely dry, with a brush, three layers of pale polish will need to be applied to the table. Then you need to sand the surface between layers. The last layer is polished with a grinder. After that, when the polishing is fully completed, the cover will need to be glued to the side walls. Then, in the corners, you need to attach brass legs. After that, the entire created table will need to be waxed and also polished to a matte finish!
Everything, a beautiful chess table is completely ready!
Good luck!
Chess table (1)
For its manufacture, planks with a thickness of 15-20 mm are required. If the table is light, then the boards for it can be made of wood with a pronounced texture: pine, spruce, oak, beech, larch, etc. For a dark table, you can use boards made of aspen, birch. These rocks in the process of work are covered with stain, pasted over with veneer or textured paper, film.
The manufacture of the table begins with the manufacture of legs. Their height depends on the height of the table, the width of the lower transverse drawer and the width of the side wall of the underframe. There are four legs, and they can be made from planks or chiseled (2). Flat legs have one curly edge. And to make them the same, when marking the curly edge, you must use a template cut out of cardboard. Then, at one and the other end of the boards, 20-30 mm are added per spike. Only after that the boards are sawn off in length.
Cut out the curly edge with a chisel. A mallet is used to facilitate the work. Then the cut leg is cleaned with a file and sandpaper. Having finished processing the edge of the leg, the spike is washed down. On turned legs, the spikes are machined directly on a lathe.
The lower side is sawn out of a plank, the length of which is equal to the width of the table cover (3). At the sawn-off tsarga, figured notches are made at the extreme upper corners. Then two grooves are hollowed out on the upper edge for the spikes made on the legs. The accuracy of the execution of these connection elements is very important, as it affects the strength of the entire product. In the middle part of these drawers, grooves are hollowed out from the inside for the lower longitudinal drawer (5). Its upper edge is also curly. The length of the longitudinal tsargi is equal to the length of the underframe.
The sidewalls of the underframe are made of planks of the required width. The fact is that the capacity of drawers depends on the width of these sidewalls. The length of the sides should be 40 mm shorter than the width of the table top. This is necessary so that the front wall of the drawer does not protrude beyond the lid.
In the middle part of these sidewalls, a longitudinal tsarga is fastened with a spike connection. Its width is equal to the sidewalls, and the length of the lower longitudinal side (4). Grooves for legs are hollowed out from the underside of the sidewalls. The distances between them on the lower side and the upper sidewall must be equal (otherwise the legs will not be parallel to each other).
Collect the table start like this. Having smeared the nests on the lower transverse side with glue, the legs are inserted into them. Then, turning these parts over, they are inserted into the sockets pre-lubricated with glue on the sidewalls of the underframe. In this way, other legs with tsargs are also collected. Only after that insert the lower and upper longitudinal drawers. With this assembly, there should be a right angle between the transverse sides and the longitudinal ones. The assembled structure is turned over with the lower sides up and small round (2) or rectangular (3) bosses are glued to them. They allow you to protect the lower sides from damage and make the table more stable.
The dried table structure is returned to its original position. Thin guide rails are attached to the inner underside of the sidewalls of the underframe. A drawer (6) rests on them. The walls of this box (except for the front one) are made of thinner boards. And the front wall in its width and thickness is equal to the plank from which the sidewall of the underframe is made. The length of the front wall is equal to the width of the underframe, measured along the outer edges of the sidewalls. Then, grooves are cut out in the finished wall for the sidewalls of the box, which should fit quite tightly. The drawer is assembled using glue, nails or screws, while the front wall is attached to the sides only with glue. This will keep the front plane of the wall clean from attachment points. The bottom of the box is cut out of thin plywood or fiberboard.
The table cover is attached with dowels and glue (4).
Consider another design of the chess table (as for the chessboard, we will talk about it a little later).
To make a table of this design, you will need four square bars (legs will be made of them), several planks 20 mm thick for the sidewalls and the transverse side of the underframe, the front wall of the drawers.
Smoothly planed bars for legs are sawn to a length that depends on the height of the table, its type (magazine or regular) and can vary from 400 to 800 mm. Then they are planed and sawn off along the length of the sidewall and the longitudinal side of the underframe. Moreover, the length of the sidewalls should be 30-40 mm shorter than the width of the table cover. This is necessary so that the front wall of the drawer does not protrude beyond the table cover. The length of the longitudinal drawer side depends on the overall dimensions of the table and on the need to have hanging edges of the lid. The width of these boards affects the capacity of the drawers: the wider they are, the larger the drawer. But the most optimal dimensions for the width of these boards can be in the range of 100-150 mm. Having made these parts, mark and saw down the junctions of the legs and planks of the underframe (2). First, the legs are connected to the sidewalls, using glue and screws screwed into the legs from the inside of the sidewalls. Having collected these parts, they insert the longitudinal drawer with glue into the grooves made on the sidewalls of the underframe. Then screws are screwed from the outside of the sidewalls. Such a connection of the elements of the table will allow you to get a rigid and durable structure.
When the glue dries, thin guide rails for drawers are attached to the inside of the sidewalls of the underframe.
The length of the front wall of the drawer is equal to the width of the underframe, measured along the outer edges of the sides. Then quarters (3) are cut along the edges of this board. They are made in such a way that the width of the drawer is equal to the internal size of the underframe. The sides of the box are made of thin boards and fastened together and to the front wall with glue and screws. The bottom is cut out of thin plywood or fiberboard.
The table cover is attached with four metal corners. They are screwed on from the outside of the sidewalls of the underframe near the legs.
All these tables, if they are made of textured wood and will be left light, are varnished several times. This will give the wood a special decorative effect and attractiveness. If necessary, the tables can be glued with veneer or textured paper, film. Only in this case, all the details of the table are first glued separately, then cleaned and only then assembled into a product and varnished.
On the covers of the chess tables, you need to make a set of dark and white cells. This is one of the simplest, but nevertheless very expressive geometric compositions.
The most interesting thing about this set is that you don't need to cut a single square here. The set is performed using a small technological secret: not squares are cut, but strips (of the same width) from two contrasting rocks. The width of the stripes should be equal to the size of the pattern cell. Since there are eight rows of cells on the playing field, to obtain them (ultimately) it is necessary to cut nine strips - four dark and five light, or vice versa. And the length of the strips should be equal to eight sizes of the width of the same strips. These strips are alternately glued with their longitudinal sides to each other. It turns out a mosaic field resembling a multi-colored material. This is a semi-finished chess set. The glued plane is divided by pencil lines across the strips into cells, each of which should be equal to the width of the strip. According to these marks, the entire field is cut across into checkered dark and light stripes. Now they are shifted relative to each other by the size of one square so that against the black spot in one strip there is a light one in the adjacent strip. This stage is very interesting, spectacular in terms of results, and it must be carried out together with the son. Here, as in no other works, in a few minutes a striped plane turns into a checkered chess field - into that final result, which, without knowing such a secret, could not be obtained soon. This example will once again show the child that in order to achieve the goal, sometimes you need to look for unusual creative approaches and solutions that can bring the final result closer.
After gluing in this order, it remains only to cut off single protruding squares.
Thus, a chess field of 8 × 8 cells is obtained. The chessboard must be very carefully cut from all sides along an even ruler with a knife (saw) and framed in several rows with thin veins of light and dark veneer. Further work on the chess field will depend on the shape of the table top. If the cover is square (and the design of the proposed tables does not exclude such a form of the cover), then it will be enough to give a frieze strip of plain veneer along the perimeter of the chess field. The width of the strip is from 1.5 squares or more, depending on the size of the table.
This frieze can be left clean, but you can give it a smooth floral ornament, which, as it were, will smooth out, soothe the too clear and contrasting chess field. If the cover is rectangular (as in our case), then there is room on both sides for arranging the won figures. These planes can be decorated in a variety of ways: floral motifs (bouquets of flowers, buds, etc.), silhouettes of elegant chess pieces or intertwining ribbons of complex ornament, etc. can be arranged.
The prepared set is veneered on the table top plate (before its assembly). If it is not possible to perform this operation in factory conditions on technological equipment (now there are more and more cooperatives to help the population), then it is necessary to veneer manually using a lapping hammer on glutinous (bone or mezdrov) glue. Veneering this will be laborious (considering the size of the area of the set), and only the father can do it. True, if his partner is a high school son, then he can be involved in this work. It will be necessary to veneer the edges. They are veneered either on the same glue, rubbing the veneer with a hammer, or on PVA glue using a hot iron.
We have already talked about how to grind sets. A transparent protective coating can be made using a matte varnish.
If there is a desire to make the surface of the table shiny, we advise you to turn to parquet varnish. The first layer (primer) can be made with nitro-lacquer. Sand (after it dries) the surface of the table with a fine-grained sandpaper, wipe off the dust and apply the final layer with parquet varnish. It is good because before the moment of drying it has time to spread evenly over the surface of the table; drying, it does not tighten the top film. Parquet lacquer is easy to use, as it resists abrasion well, and after all, playing chess is a constant movement of pieces on a plane. As for the underframe, it can also be coated with nitrocellulose varnish.
- How to make a chess table yourself?
- Connecting a chessboard to a tabletop, table decoration
Such a carpentry product as a chess table can be made independently. At the same time, it will not be necessary to use it for its intended purpose, since this original hand-made chess table will perfectly decorate any of the rooms in your house. In the process of creating this decorative piece of furniture, it will be possible to learn how to correctly assemble a surface divided into uniform squares of different colors by using multi-colored veneer plates.
The original chess table will be an excellent interior decoration.
As a material with which you can successfully build a table with your own hands, you should use:
Such a home-made sliding chess table, at which you can simultaneously play chess and drink tea, can be made independently according to the scheme.
- etmoya plates, the thickness of which will be about 3 mm. As for the dimensions, they should be enough to get 32 squares of 4 × 4 square meters. cm;
- plates of ebony, again no more than 3 mm thick, in an amount sufficient to obtain 32 squares, each of which has an area of \u200b\u200b4 × 4 square meters. cm;
- Erable plates, the thickness of which is about 3 mm. Its size should be sufficient to obtain 4 rectangles, the area of \u200b\u200bwhich is 11.5 × 56 square meters. cm;
- residual material is not thrown away, since its quantity will be sufficient for the manufacture of molds from thin strips;
- melamine plastic sheet with an area of about 1 sq. m;
- 4 strips 8 mm wide and 70 cm long, which will be needed for inlay;
- plywood sheet 3 mm thick;
- board or sheet of fiberboard, the thickness of which is 19 mm,
- a pair of squares whose area is 52.2 square meters. cm;
- 4 rectangles whose area is 10x56 cm;
- 4 pine bars, 6.2 x1, 5x52, 2 cm in size, which will be used to make braces;
- 6 pine slats, the dimensions of which are 3x0.8x80 cm;
- 4 details of ebony, dimensions 4x4x7 cm;
- etymoya boards, from which it will be possible to make 2 boxes;
- 4 mm plywood sheets in the amount of 2 pieces, with an area of 18.6 x26.3 cm each. With their help, the bottoms of the boxes will be created;
How to make a chess table yourself?
In the process of designing such a piece of furniture, it is necessary to be guided by strict drawing data, so that unnecessary errors in calculations and installation can be avoided. The first step is to choose what kind of outer surface you want for your chess table. Prepare 2 types of plates from which the surface of the chessboard will be divided into squares. One of the plates should be made from dark etymoya wood and the other from light wood.
The thickness of the plates is approximately 3 mm, and it is important to pay attention to the fact that they do not have any defects on their surface.
The table shows the dimensions of the blanks and the material for the manufacture of the table.
In order to get wide chess stripes equal to 4 cm, it will be necessary to cut out the corresponding plates with an iron saw taken from a planer and ruler. It will be possible to use bars 4 cm wide as reliable guides. To accurately perform this operation, it is recommended to fix the plate and the ruler on the workbench with two joiner clamps. After obtaining strips of both colors with a width of 4 cm, it remains to cut out squares of 4x4 cm from them. To do this, you can use a sharp blade, without teeth, and a form made of chipboard, the cut area in which will slightly exceed 4 square meters. cm.
This form is placed on top of the strips, and the plates are cut into squares using a blade and a hammer. As a result, you will quickly and relatively easily get the correct squares for a chessboard with clean cuts and without any burrs and bumps.
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Laying out the cells in a checkerboard pattern and creating a board for the table with your own hands
Places on the board that should be light are sealed with masking tape, and then paint is applied. After drying, the adhesive tape can be removed.
Having received exactly 64 squares, 32 light and dark colors each, you must arrange them, as required by the rules of the game, in a checkerboard pattern. To do this, you should take a melamine plastic panel as a base plate, on the surface of which strips of adhesive paper are fixed, so that, in turn, you can fix the squares one by one on them, photo 2. It is worth paying special attention to the fact that you need to glue the squares in such a way that so that no gaps form between their sides and corners. Then proceed to decorate the edges of the created chessboard. This can be done using strips 8 mm wide, which are located along the edges of the borders of the chessboard. They need to be fixed in the same way as they did with the cells of the chessboard.
Do not forget that you need to cut the joints of the corners on the strips at an angle of 45 degrees. Before setting these boundaries completely, first try them on the board to be sure of the symmetry and uniformity of the design. After gluing these elements, you will receive the structure shown in photo 3, which will subsequently be built into the table.
1 - general view of a table with plank legs; 2 - turned legs; 3 - fitting plank legs to the drawers; 4 - fastening of the longitudinal side; 5 - fastening of the lower longitudinal side; 6 - drawer
The main parts of the table will be a 10 cm thick support panel, 4 end surfaces on which the table legs will rest, 2 legs and one connecting part. It will be convenient to make them from fiberboard, the thickness of which is 19 mm. In order to cut out the details for the table with your own hands as even and beautiful as possible, it is better to first create templates, according to which the legs and other parts of the table will be cut out with your own hands. Since the legs and transverse parts of the table are symmetrical, the templates can be made half, according to which markings are already made on the finishing material, and then they are cut out on a workbench using an electric band saw. Then proceed to create a platform, the thickness of which is 10 cm. This can be done by taking 2 chipboard panels with a thickness of 19 mm and an area of 52.5x52.5 cm, which will become components of the support. To increase its thickness to 10 cm, it will be necessary to use 4 more pine bars with dimensions of 6.2 x1.5 cm and a length of 52.2 cm, which are installed between 2 panels, connecting them with nails. The edges of the resulting box are closed with plates cut from fiberboard.
