How to make a wall and from paper. Robot wally made of paper

Looking for gluing patterns Robot Wally made of paper then welcome to at!

After the release of the cartoon "Walli", the robot scavenger named Walli immediately won the sympathy of millions of children and adults around the world. Despite the fact that several years have passed since the release of the cartoon, people continue to design similar robots from a wide variety of materials.

We want to invite you to join the amateurs paper modeling and use for gluing Robot Valley suggested below schemes.

Making a robot Valli out of paper

To glue the robot Wally, you first need to print parts diagrams of which it consists. It is better to print on a color printer, then the robot will be more beautiful and effective. It is better to use thick paper, thin will work well. If you do not have such paper, then print the parts on a regular office A-4 size, and then stick it on cardboard.

When the parts are printed, start cutting them out. Use small scissors or a utility knife to do this.

At the last stage, it remains only to glue all the details. For this, it is better to use a glue stick, this will allow the gluing to be done more accurately.

Part diagrams of Valia's robot made of paper

Valli's robot head schematic

Cut out and glue the Valli's robot head.

Valli's robot torso

Then we glue the body of the robot and connect it to the head.

Valli's robot arms

We glue the robot arms.

Robot Wally's Left Caterpillar

Robot Wally's Right Caterpillar

At the end we glue the tracks on the right and left sides and robot wally made of paper READY!

It all started after watching the Cartoon "Wall-E", I was so impressed by the image of a small, completely lonely robot who alone fights with a whole army of more advanced brothers that I decided to make a computer case in the form of my favorite hero. The result is a very cool mod ... but let's start in order :)

The first day.

So, I'll start my story about how I made this mod. Believe it or not, it only took eighteen days! I want to note that no "hack-work" was allowed in the work, I made all the details from metal ..
I started making the body from the chassis of the robot. The wheels were made of sheet duralumin twenty millimeters thick. First, I made the markup on the sheet.

And drilled holes in it.

He separated the blanks from the plate using a jigsaw with a metal blade.

These are how they turned out, not very beautiful ...

To get similarity to the original, I took screenshots from the movie screen, scaled it to fit the size of the motherboard in "CorelDraw". By measuring the distances in the picture, I got all the sizes. But not everything that is drawn can be done without changes. Take the drive wheels, for example: my equipment does not allow milling tapered surfaces on a turntable. I had to sacrifice this and limit myself to general similarities ...

I did not make the teeth with absolute similarity either, in my opinion, this is a minor detail.

Here's the summary of a full day of work:

Second day. I continue to manufacture the chassis. I use the same technology to make support beams.
Someone may think that this is an outdated and inconvenient method ... I absolutely disagree with this: far from everyone has plasma or laser cutting.

On a milling machine, I give them the desired shape ...

To facilitate the design, the excess metal is sampled with a cutter. This was done on all the details. The main thing is not to violate their strength. Here are the results:

Then he grinded out the wheel mounting parts and the support rollers.

I'm trying to collect.

So far, it turns out very well. The track tensioners were also made of sheet duralumin, and then on a lathe made them look like the original.

At the end of the second day of work, I got the base of the tracks.

Day three. I started by grinding the upper support rollers ... I'll tell you a secret, these tracks are damn tedious work, I had to make a huge number of identical parts. However, there is no way without it. Here is such a test of character :) Although lumin is sharpened easily and quickly, it is a pleasure to work with it.

And their axes ...

This is what the top support assembly looks like.

It remains only to attach it at an angle to the base.

Now I start to track the tracks. They are made of a twenty-five millimeter wide aluminum strip. First, the workpieces of the required length are cut with a hacksaw, and then they are processed on a milling machine in a package.

As a result, I have a whole bunch of tracks, from which I need to remove the burrs with a file after processing ...

After a couple of hours, you can continue. I decided not to make the tracks functional, to put motors on them. Let Wall-e stand still on the table. Based on this, the tracks can be assembled on a strip of aluminum by attaching them with screws.

In the end, this is what happened:

The protruding screws are then grinded with a grinding wheel.

Day four. I make a jumper between the tracks, or rather the main mounting bracket, on which, like on a frame, the body itself and both tracks are held. A very important detail. I calculated it for a long time and even designed it in 3D, just in case ... One funny effect is observed here - any detail in real life looks for some reason not quite like on paper :)

First I gave it an external size and shape, then I drilled out the inside. This was done in order to save metal and speed up production.

Now you can process the inside.

Trying on the tracks with each other.

This already looks like something. From the remaining piece of metal I make brake shoes.

Day five. The day turned out to be rather boring. I continue to work on the elements of the caterpillars, grinding out various elements of the mountings. Oh, it's good that I gave up the idea of making the chassis work :) But there was an idea to equip the chassis with a drive ... I probably wouldn't have done this project in half a year :)

Oh, how many small parts, and each one needs to be made ...

And try on ...

Two corners of the shoe suspension were made in one piece and then cut in half.

The whole structure was attached to the base with one screw.

Now it's up to the manufacture of the walls of the case. It is necessary to take into account all sorts of factors for installing the motherboard, fixing the arms and all the computer hardware.
I start with the sidewalls. Having cut the blanks, I give them the final dimensions in a package, which will give maximum accuracy during assembly.

The red strip at the bottom is a spacer to prevent accidental cutting of the cutter into the table.

Sixth day.
I must say that even with such a small size of the case, a huge amount of material was spent on it, I did not even expect that Valli would turn out to be such a voracious robot ... But what can you do, he's a scavenger robot :)
I make slits to move the robot's arms, both parts are made symmetrical.

On the fold line, you need to make a groove with an angle of ninety degrees to half the thickness of the metal. This will allow the plate to bend straight.

But this will not protect from scrapping. Dural bends very badly. To do this, you need to heat the fold, and bend to hot.

If everything is done correctly, then an even bend is ensured.

The sides are assembled at the corners.

From the outside, the joint is grinded with a grinder.

Now you can attach the assembled sidewalls to the chassis and see what happens.

Here ... I looked at the picture and realized: I forgot about the camera ... Now they will ask me: where did the interior inserts and decorative elements come from at the back. Well ... I admit my guilt when you are passionate about something you even forget about food :).
The inner part is needed in order to cover the groove and protect the computer from foreign objects falling into it. The semicircular ledge is for decorative purposes only.
Now I'm making the front wall of the case.

And I try it on to the whole structure.

It is already beginning to look like something ...

Seventh day. I start this day by making the front cover of the robot. The prototype of my mod has a kind of garbage scoop, it can open and close. We will also do, behind this cover it will be possible to hide something, for example a DVD./ The cover is bent from a sheet of duralumin and attached with screws to a cylindrical base, which will serve as an axis of rotation. Elements from an aluminum corner are inserted from the sides to give shape and rigidity.

Now you need to try on the lid to the body.

The next step is to make inserts for fastening the arms. Hands should be able to move in the grooves; for this, a square-shaped guide is made.

The hole serves for unhindered insertion of the insert into the groove.

Lord, what dirty hands I have ... :)

This is how the guide should be inserted. Tired of mechanical work, I decided to start priming the chassis and preparing for painting. For the putty, I took a proprietary mixture with the addition of aluminum powder. This putty is specially designed for aluminum.

I carefully coat the screw heads and grind the surface.

I used an acrylic metal primer in spray cans.

Day eight. Today I'm getting down to a swivel arm attachment, ugh ..., a paw manipulator in our Wall-e. The shoulder assembly consists of a cup, a spring, and a mounting screw. The spring serves to create tension on the knot and will prevent the hands from moving spontaneously. There is a suede pad under the cup, which will protect the case from scratches when you move your hands (not visible in the photo). All these difficulties so that the legs of the robot can be moved, and so that they themselves can hold in any position.

Screws are screwed into the threaded holes of the cup, which serve as axes for horizontal movement of the hand. The arm itself is made of a rectangular aluminum profile. A plug is inserted into it for attaching to the cup.

This is how it looks assembled.

Now I'm doing the front of the arm. It has a hole for a cylindrical rod.

The front is attached to the arm with two screws.

Today I still managed to make blanks for the "fingers" of the hands.

Day nine. The arm should move freely in all directions, but not fall under its own weight, as I decided earlier ... To do this, an aluminum rectangle is attached to the inside of the tube, into which spring-loaded friction elements are inserted. They are made of nylon and create the necessary braking force by pressing against the side walls of the arm body.

To prevent axial displacement of the hand, there is a spring-loaded element at the end of the cracker, which also creates the necessary friction.

This is how the hands look when assembled:

It was the turn of the fingers of the hands, that is, the manipulators of the robot. I again forgot to photograph the stages of their manufacture ... The pins are set on two axes and have springs to create friction during movement.

It turns out very similar. Now insert the magnet into the front cover of the case. He will keep it closed. A groove is made for it and it is glued into it with epoxy glue. The magnet is located so that it would be opposite the head of the housing fixing screw. I used a powerful neodymium magnet from a broken hard drive.

The lid is now securely held closed.

I continue painting the chassis. All painting was done from spray cans with acrylic paint.

Day ten. Making a robot head. It should be noted that I racked my brains over this knot for a long time, forgive me for the columbour :) All my suffering was not in vain, it turned out really great. But let's go in order .. So, first you need to prepare two strips of aluminum of the same size. They will serve to form elliptical housings .. their purpose will become clear a little later.

To give them the desired shape, a template is required, I made it from a whole piece of duralumin sixty millimeters thick. At the same time, cheeks were made to create the maximum similarity with the original.

After milling, all parts must be sanded to give them a smooth shape.

This is what I got at the end of this tricky operation:

Now I bend two halves of my head according to the template .. I don't even know what to call these eyepieces :)

The resulting joint must be placed on the inside - there it is less noticeable. The connection is made with screws and an aluminum plate.

Now you can safely cut the hole.

The assembly of the cheeks is carried out using three threaded posts, the screws on the front will serve as decorative elements.

I make two symmetrical pieces.

To connect them together, you need to make a bracket. It will also allow you to move the eyes around its axis, changing the expression on Wall-e's face.

The fixing screw is located inside the housing and has a friction spring.

Both eyes are attached to the "rocker".

But this is how you can turn them, and Wall-and will immediately become offended ...

I am trying to evaluate everything that has been done. It looks like something already :)

Day eleven. I continue to work on Wall-e's head. From scraps of thick-walled aluminum pipes, I make parts for the head body. In our case, this element is purely decorative. It can be assumed that a "real" robot has memory elements or complex eye lenses there .. :)

To give an elliptical shape, the workpiece is cut to length.

After shaping, the housings are attached to the eyes with screws. Since the pipe walls are thick, you can drill a hole in the end and cut a thread. Also, the back covers are fastened with screws.

In the center of the covers, you need to install angled connectors from the television antenna, they will simulate the wires on the Wall-e's head.

The next step is to make the elements of the robot head entourage.

And the last one is the covers. They are bent from duralumin plates.

They are attached with two screws. The rest of the small parts of the head are attached to them.

Finally, the head takes on its shape ...

Day twelve. I am making a hinge of the head. The head will have several degrees of freedom, that is, the ability to tilt to any side. A locking mechanism is also implemented so that the head itself is held in any position; for this, the bracket is connected to it using a hairpin and a spring clamping device. The principle of operation is well understood from the photos below.

The holes in the bracket are for securing the wires.

I try on my head to the body.

And I try all this on the chassis.

Wall-e's image is beginning to take shape. All cracks in the body are putty, after that I grind all the details and proceed to preliminary painting. The body itself is painted with Ocher paint, all Caterpillar equipment is painted with the same paint, and it matches the color perfectly.

The head is painted with Metallic Gray paint and imitates Old Metal.

Thirteenth day. I start this day by painting the arms, that is, the limbs of the robot. I decided not to paint the fingers and rods, but simply to grind and polish. After all, this is how the fingers of a workaholic robot, which has been collecting garbage for years, should look like :) To apply the stripes, I used a narrow masking tape. First I applied white stripes.

Then black. Pre-closing the white tape.

I connect the wires in the head of the robot.

Now it was the turn of the eyes themselves. It is difficult to find ready-made lenses, you have to run after it, look for it, buy ... I did it easier - I made them out of plexiglass.

A piece of plexiglass is clamped in a lathe and given the desired outer diameter.

Then I make a radius with a shaped cutter.

It remains only to polish on a rag wheel with GOI paste.

Now it came to the frames of the eyes. First, I make the outer ring.

The eyes are pretty complex. The fact is that in the cartoon they are like living, with a pupil. To imitate such eyes, I had to make many elements ... see for yourself ..

The entire assembly became similar to Wall-e's eyes.

Day fourteen. The day is completely dedicated to painting. I started the day with a visit to my favorite auto shop, bought a liter of thinner and several cans of paint. There were not many visitors, and the seller helped for a long time to choose the colors of the desired color. The lad did not understand me .. why do I need the "rust color" :) First of all, I take on the chassis. The paints used were cherry, red, brown, black, carmine and chrome colors. When mixed, you can get a rusty effect.

The paint was applied with a sponge, light touches.

As a result, we have badly worn out, in some places rusty tracks and chassis wheels .. It is immediately clear that they ran off for more than one year through industrial waste dumps :) A sponge was also used to paint the head, only gray-blue and silver were included in the set of paints. For painting the head was fixed on the board. Very similar to the head of Professor Dowell ... :)

I paint the body, the rust effects are applied with a sponge, I just painted the upper hatches with a brush.

Since I just wanted a small case, I took a Mini-ITX form factor motherboard as a basis.
The Intel Desktop Board D945GCLF is specifically designed for Internet-centric computers. Featuring an integrated Intel Atom processor based on 45nm manufacturing technology and Intel 945GC Express Chipset, this motherboard is a power-efficient solution for home and business users. Powered by industry-leading 45nm Hi-k dielectric technology and metal shutters, this Intel Integrated Processor motherboard offers endless possibilities for communication, movie watching, Internet telephony, gaming and Internet learning.

The reason for choosing this motherboard was the fact that even with a microATX motherboard, the dimensions of the case grew to unacceptable sizes. And I wanted to have a small, desktop design. By the way, in the line of these boards there is a copy based on a dual-core Atom330 processor.
Despite the toy size of the motherboard, this is a pretty smart copy, DVD-video goes completely without brakes, there were no problems on the Internet either. Of course, it is difficult to expect high performance in games from such a crumbs with built-in video ... but "Stalker" earned on it, God knows not with what quality, but you can play ...

The first day
So, I'll start my story about how I made this mod. Believe it or not, it only took eighteen days! I want to note that no "hack-work" was allowed in the work, I made all the details from metal ..
I started making the body from the chassis of the robot. The wheels were made of sheet duralumin twenty millimeters thick. First, I made the markup on the sheet.

And drilled holes in it.

He separated the blanks from the plate using a jigsaw with a metal blade.

These are how they turned out, not very beautiful ...

I did not make the teeth with absolute similarity either, in my opinion, this is a minor detail.

Here's the summary of a full day of work:

Second day

I continue to manufacture the chassis. I use the same technology to make support beams.

Someone may think that this is an outdated and inconvenient method ... I absolutely agree with this :) But it turned out to be much more convenient, since I had a piece of metal of a very bizarre shape.

On a milling machine, I give them the desired shape ...

To facilitate the design, the excess metal is sampled with a cutter. This was done on all the details. The main thing is not to violate their strength. Here are the results:

Then he grinded out the wheel mounting parts and the support rollers.

I'm trying to collect.

So far, it turns out very well. Track tensioners were also made of sheet duralumin, and then on a lathe made them look like the original

At the end of the second day of work, I got the base of the tracks.

Day three

I started by grinding the upper support rollers ... I'll tell you a secret, these tracks are a hell of a tedious job ... I had to make a huge number of identical parts. However, there is no way without it. Here is such a test of character :) Although lumin is sharpened easily and quickly, it is a pleasure to work with it.

And their axes ...

This is what the top support assembly looks like.

It remains only to attach it at an angle to the base.

In the end, this is what happened:

The protruding screws are then grinded with a grinding wheel.

Day four.

I make a jumper between the tracks, or rather the main mounting bracket, on which, like on a frame, the body itself and both tracks are held. A very important detail. I calculated it for a long time and even designed it in 3D, just in case ... One funny effect is observed here - any detail in real life looks for some reason not quite like on paper :)

Trying on the tracks for each other

This already looks like something. From the remaining piece of metal I make brake shoes.

Day five.

The day turned out to be rather boring. I continue to work on track elements, grind out various fastening elements .. Oh, it's good that I abandoned the idea of making the chassis a working one :) But there was an idea to equip the chassis with a drive ... I probably wouldn't have done this project in half a year: )

Oh, how many small parts, and each one needs to be made ...

And try on ...

Two corners of the shoe suspension were made in one piece and the potto was cut in half.

The whole structure was attached to the base with one screw.

Now it's about making the walls of the case. It is necessary to take into account all sorts of factors for installing the motherboard, fixing the arms and all the computer hardware.
I start with the sidewalls. Having cut the blanks, I give them the final dimensions in a package, which will give maximum accuracy during assembly.

Day six

I must say that even with such a small body size, a huge amount of material was spent on it, I did not even expect that Valli would turn out to be such a voracious robot ... But what can you do, he's a scavenger robot :)

I make slits to move the robot's arms, both parts are made symmetrical.

On the fold line, you need to make a groove with an angle of ninety degrees and half the thickness of the metal. This will allow the plate to bend straight.

But this will not protect from scrapping. Dural bends very badly. To do this, you need to heat the fold, and bend to hot.

The sides are assembled at the corners.

From the outside, the joint is grinded with a grinder.

Now you can attach the assembled sidewalls to the chassis and see what happens.

And I try it on to the whole structure.

Seventh day

I start this day by making the front cover of the robot. The prototype of my mod has a kind of garbage scoop, it can open and close. Let's also do it, you can hide something behind this cover, for example, a DVD /

The cover is bent from a sheet of duralumin and fixed with screws to a cylindrical base that will serve as an axis of rotation. Elements from an aluminum corner are inserted from the sides to give shape and rigidity.

Now you need to try on the lid to the body.

The next step is to make inserts for fastening the arms. Hands should be able to move in the grooves; for this, a square-shaped guide is made.

The hole serves for unhindered insertion of the insert into the groove.

Lord, what dirty hands I have ... :)

I carefully coat the screw heads and grind the surface.

I used an acrylic metal primer in spray cans.

Day eight

Today I'm getting down to the swivel arm attachment, ugh ..., the manipulator paw in our Wall-e. The shoulder assembly consists of a cup, a spring, and a mounting screw. The spring serves to create tension on the knot and prevent the hands from moving spontaneously. There is a suede pad under the cup, which will protect the case from scratches when you move your hands (not visible in the photo). All these difficulties so that the legs of the robot can be moved, and so that they themselves can hold in any position.

Screws are screwed into the threaded holes of the cup, which serve as axes for horizontal movement of the hand.
The arm itself is made of a rectangular aluminum profile. A plug is inserted into it for attaching to the cup.

This is how it looks assembled.

Now I'm doing the front of the arm. It has a hole for a cylindrical rod.

The front is attached to the arm with two screws.

Today I still managed to make blanks for the "fingers" of the hands.

Day nine

The arm should move freely in all directions, but not fall under its own weight, as I decided earlier ... To do this, an aluminum rectangle is attached to the inside of the tube, into which spring-loaded friction elements are inserted. They are made of nylon and create the necessary braking force by pressing against the side walls of the arm body.

To prevent axial displacement of the hand, there is a spring-loaded element at the end of the cracker, which also creates the necessary friction.

This is how the hands look when assembled:

It turns out very similar. Now insert the magnet into the front cover of the case. He will keep it closed. A groove is made for it, and it is glued into it with epoxy glue. The magnet is located so that it would be opposite the head of the housing fixing screw. I used a powerful neodymium magnet from a broken hard drive.

The lid is now securely held closed.

I continue painting the chassis. All painting was done from spray cans with acrylic paint.

Day ten.

Making a robot head. It should be noted that I racked my brains over this knot for a long time, forgive me for the columbour :) All my suffering was not in vain, it turned out really great. But let's take it in order ..

So, first you need to prepare two strips of aluminum of the same size. They will serve to form elliptical housings .. their purpose will become clear a little later.

After milling, all parts must be sanded to give them a smooth shape.

This is what I got at the end of this tricky operation:

Now I bend two halves of my head according to the template .. I don't even know what to call these eyepieces :)

The resulting joint must be placed on the inside - there it is less noticeable. The connection is made with screws and an aluminum plate.

Now you can safely cut the hole.

The assembly of the cheeks is carried out using three threaded posts, the screws on the front will serve as decorative elements.

I make two symmetrical pieces.

To connect them together, you need to make a bracket. It will also allow you to move the eyes around its axis, changing the expression on Wall-e's face.

The fixing screw is located inside the housing and has a friction spring.

Both eyes are attached to the "rocker".

But this is how you can turn them, and Wall-and will immediately become offended ...

I am trying to evaluate everything that has been done. It looks like something already :)

Day eleven

I continue to work on Wall-e's head. From scraps of thick-walled aluminum pipes, I make parts for the head body. In our case, this element is purely decorative. It can be assumed that a "real" robot has memory elements or complex eye lenses there .. :)

To give an elliptical shape, the workpiece is cut to length.

After shaping, the housings are attached to the eyes with screws. Since the pipe walls are thick, you can drill a hole in the end and cut a thread. Also, the back covers are fastened with screws.

In the center of the covers, you need to install angled connectors from the television antenna, they will simulate the wires on the Wall-e's head.

The next step is to make the elements of the robot head entourage.

And the last one is the covers. They are bent from duralumin plates.

They are attached with two screws. The rest of the small parts of the head are attached to them.

Finally, the head takes on its shape ...

Day twelve

I am making a hinge of the head. The head will have several degrees of freedom, that is, the ability to tilt to any side. A locking mechanism is also implemented so that the head itself is held in any position; for this, the bracket is connected to it using a pin and a spring-loaded clamping device. The principle of operation is well understood from the photos below.

The holes in the bracket are for securing the wires.

I try on my head to the body.

And I try all this on the chassis.

Wall-e's image is beginning to take shape.

All cracks in the body are putty, after that I grind all the details and proceed to preliminary painting. The body itself is painted with Ocher paint, all Caterpillar equipment is painted with the same paint, and it matches the color perfectly.

The head is painted with Metallic Gray paint and imitates Old Metal.

Day thirteen

I start this day by painting the arms, that is ... the limbs of the robot. I decided not to paint the fingers and rods, but simply to grind and polish. After all, this is how the fingers of a workaholic robot should look like, which has been collecting garbage for years :)

I used a narrow masking tape to apply the stripes. First I applied white stripes.

Then black. Pre-closing the white tape.

I connect the wires in the head of the robot.

Now it was the turn of the eyes themselves. It is difficult to find ready-made lenses, you have to run after it, look for it, buy ... I did it easier - I made them out of plexiglass.

A piece of plexiglass is clamped in a lathe and given the desired outer diameter.

Then I make a radius with a shaped cutter

It remains only to polish on a rag wheel with GOI paste.

And the lens is ready! Of course, it does not have excellent optical qualities, but they are not needed here.

Now it came to the frames of the eyes. First, I make the outer ring.

The eyes are pretty complex. The fact is that in the cartoon they are like living, with a pupil. To imitate such eyes, I had to make many elements ... see for yourself ..

The entire assembly became similar to Wall-e's eyes.

Day fourteen

The day is completely dedicated to painting. I started the day with a visit to my favorite auto shop, bought a liter of thinner and several cans of paint. There were not many visitors, and the seller helped for a long time to choose the colors of the desired color. The lad did not understand me .. why do I need the "rust color" :) First of all, I take on the chassis. The paints used were cherry, red, brown, black, carmine and chrome colors. When mixed, you can get a rusty effect.

The paint was applied with a sponge, light touches.

As a result, we have heavily worn out, in places rusty tracks and chassis wheels .. It is immediately clear that they ran off for more than one year through industrial waste dumps :)
A sponge was also used to paint the head, only gray-blue and silver had to be included in the set of paints. For painting the head was fixed on the board. Very similar to the head of Professor Dowell ... :)

I paint the body, the rust effects are applied with a sponge, I just painted the upper hatches with a brush.

I try on my head to the body.

Day fifteen

It's time to tackle the front panel of the robot, since our robot will no longer run around landfills, we will need something else ... I place a USB connector and LEDs on a piece of a breadboard. The LEDs will illuminate the nameplate with the battery charge indicator, and the blinking sun will correspond to the activity of the hard drive.

Checking ...

And I install it in the case. To install this board, two threaded posts are provided in the housing. I drew the nameplate itself in CorelDraw and printed it on an inkjet printer on a transparent film. A transparent tape is glued to the top of the film to protect it from dirt and moisture.

Until the end of the day, I was engaged in making track pads, I was so tired with them that I forgot to take pictures. They were made of aluminum strip and glued to the tracks. Then the tracks are finally painted and varnished. To paint the tracks I used a silver Hammer paint. This paint has a remarkable property: it somewhat increases in volume after application, thereby giving the object a relief.

Day sixteen

If you have not watched this magnificent cartoon, then I will tell you something about the robot Valli - he was a music lover! Yes, he devilishly loved music, and even had a player built into the case, how! What exactly drove the designers of the scavenger robot, when they equipped it with such a strange subject, we now do not know ... for this we just make buttons. In our case, one of them will be the start of the computer, the other will be a reset. I have aligned the symbols on the buttons.

The buttons are polished and the symbols are filled with paint.

The turn came to the front cover. You need to write the name of the robot on it. With a thin needle, I applied two reference lines (scratches are barely noticeable, and they will then disappear under the varnish).
I painted the inscription itself with a thin brush, the work is long and painstaking, but I am satisfied with the result.

Day seventeen

I will delight our dear reader - the corpus is almost ready! There was a mere trifle left - to install the iron in the case :) The decision came by itself, to make a removable chassis from aluminum corners, and to fix all the iron to it. As a matter of fact, inside the Valley it is so cramped that there could be no other solution ... I am engaged in the chassis for the electronic filling of the robot. As planned, all electronics should be removed from the case as a single unit to facilitate access to all parts. The frame was made of an aluminum corner, as planned at first.

The next step is to install the DVD, it must be positioned in the center of the chassis, for this I use threaded cylindrical racks.

It is also necessary to carefully measure the height of the drive, so that it exactly hits the window intended for it.

The drive itself decided not to paint. What if you want to change it?

Now I'm installing the motherboard.

And after it the Winchester. Moreover, the latter was positioned so that the connectors were on the same axis to facilitate cable connection.

Day eighteen

The power supply had to be disassembled to reduce its height. A separate compartment is made for it in the chassis. The fan is attached to the chassis and covered with a mesh.

I want to note that such manipulations with the power supply can only be afforded by a person with extensive experience and good knowledge in the field of electronics. The slightest mistake is fraught with electric shock, or iron failure. You must understand the principle of operation of the power supply unit, as well as know that high voltage is present on almost all of its parts.

I attach a decorative cover to the chassis and connect all the wires.

This is how the block is inserted into the case.

And this is how it looks from behind ...

Day nineteen

Actually, I thought that the work was completed. But during the preliminary discussion, my friend Pavel drew my attention to the fact that the robot's eyes turned out to be too small and thus lose their expressiveness ...

A still from the film confirms this ... It was decided to correct such an annoying mistake.

And what happened to me ...

I had to redo it, but at first I did not attach any importance to such a fact. When I did cheeks, I was afraid to leave a very thin jumper and stepped back a lot from the edge. Because of this, the eyes turned out to be small. Now we need to fix it. But now you can't clamp it on the machine, you have to work with a file ...

I cut one hole and got tired so that there is nowhere else :) You know yourself - it is always more difficult to redo ...

But this is not enough, the eyes must be completely new, with all the lenses and rings ...

Well, I saw it out. But not without scratches, you have to tint ...

Now that's it! The eyes are true to the original!

The final

So the turn came to the final shots. I present to you my creation in full glory :)

In conclusion, I want to add that to make such a mod I needed all my life experience ... turning, milling and drilling machines. Drill, grinder and luminous trimmings from Tsvetmet's landfill. Guys, if you are really fond of homemade products, be sure to get your own machines, now it is very affordable ..
And yet ... if someone liked this computer, I will gladly sell it as soon as I play enough :) but in my head I already have an idea for the next homemade product ...

Hey! Do you want to assemble a robot that is not difficult to assemble? You have come to the right place! =) It is on our site that you can find detailed articles on step-by-step assembly of your first robot, as well as many other robots, and even for competitions.

We are very glad that our articles will help you, a beginner robotics engineer, master this interesting area and improve your skill in this direction. We also want to note that according to these articles, we, the developers of the SERVODROID website, conduct classes in free robotics circles, and we really like to teach and tell what BEAM-robotics is to everyone.

Help our project! Register on our website and come to our Online chat or forum and share your crafts and your progress - after all, it is your activity that attracts more and more attention of beginners to robotics - they look at your success and want to become just as cool, and we are very nice to see that you are doing well. And if something doesn't work out, we will help;)

What boy did not dream of a toy robot as a child? Many made them from paper and other scrap materials. Now the shelves of children's stores are literally littered with mechanical and electronic toys for every taste and wallet, but a homemade paper robot remains one of the most favorite crafts for both adults and kids. Consider the process of making several versions of figures of varying degrees of complexity.

How to assemble an interesting paper robot yourself

Regardless of the model chosen, we need:

color printer;
thick A4 paper;
scissors;
glue stick, PVA or "Moment";
brush;
drawing ruler;
toothpick.

Even a child can handle this figure without the help of an adult. It only takes a little patience, accuracy and perseverance. To begin with, on a sheet of paper, we print out the color scheme of the robot, shown below.

We cut out the parts along the contour and bend the blanks along the indicated lines. To ensure that all the contours of the product are clear and neat, the folds should be made using a drawing ruler, drawing along the lines with a toothpick or the blunt edge of scissors.

Let's start assembling the figurine. We collect a small amount of glue on the brush and coat the workpiece allowances. You can use pencil-shaped glue. We start gluing from the head, bending the antennas outward. The neck folds and bends inward so that the head hangs over the body of the robot. Gradually move on to gluing the handles, torso and legs. Make sure that all corners are straight, and the allowances are hidden inside.

If desired, add additional details to the figure: elements made of foil or colored paper, metal or plastic elements. The robot is ready!

A robot made of modules.

This figure is a little more complicated than the previous one, as it consists of several parts - modules. The unfolded figure is shown below. We transfer the image to any graphics editor and, if desired, make changes: change the color, add or remove the necessary details.

We print blanks on thick paper or cardboard and cut them along the contour. If black and white printing is used, the image must first be colored and allowed to dry.

We glue the head, making cuts in the necessary places and folding the part along the fold lines. We carefully coat the allowances with glue and hide the parts inside. Cut and glue the antennas, place them in the center of the robot's head so that they are perpendicular to its surface. We glue the body in the same way.

When cutting and gluing the neck of the figure (detail 3), you should be extremely careful and careful, otherwise inaccuracies may arise during assembly. We fold the part into a ring and glue its ends, connect the body and the head of the robot. We glue the blanks for the pens, having previously folded them along the dotted lines, and attaching them perpendicular to the body of the figure.

We glue the tracks of the four triangular elements, trying not to confuse the sides of the images. After the glue has dried, glue the tracks onto the ends of the resulting blanks (details 7). A robot made of modules with your own hands is ready.

Robot Valley.

Wally, a funny robot scavenger, is perhaps one of the kindest and most beloved cartoon characters. To make it, you need to be patient and accurate, because the figurine consists of a fairly large number of parts of different sizes. But the result will exceed all your expectations and will become a real decoration of a children's room or a great gift.

We translate the image schemes on paper and print the details, increasing them to the required size. It should be remembered that the finer the parts, the more difficult it is to assemble the robot.

We cut out all the blanks in accordance with their numbers. It is best to use nail scissors with fine and sharp ends. With the help of a toothpick and a ruler, we process all the fold lines, forming clear contours of future workpieces. We glue the square body of the figure, as shown in the diagram below. We try to combine all the details as accurately as possible, otherwise the robot will end up looking messy.

From parts 12-15 we glue two parts of the eyes, from parts 7-10 we form the neck of the robot and with its help we attach the eyes to the body. We make sure that all paired parts are located symmetrically. To the back surface of the eyes we glue the blank, assembled from pre-folded and glued parts 11 and 16. Then we make our hands in accordance with the assembly diagram below, with the exception of the palms.

We assemble tracks and tracks from parts 24, 25, 28-34. This work requires utmost attention and accuracy, since a large number of small parts are used.

At the final stage of the assembly, we make out the palms and thumbs for our robot, and also glue the Rubik's cube and place it in his hand.

Valli's robot is ready!

Video selection on the topic of the article

Other options for funny and easy-to-make paper robots can be made using the video tutorials below.

Paper model of WALL-E (WALL-E) from the m / f "WALL-I"- (Universal Landscape Light Annihilator - Intelligent; English WALL-E) - BNL robots, one of which found its true purpose, the original color is light yellow, but gradually it became rusty. When Eve arrived, WALL-E fell in love with her.

Materials and tools:

scissors, paper knife, drawing ruler;
tweezers;
brushes for glue and paint;
watercolors (or pencils), toothpicks;
transparent acrylic glue ("Moment", etc.);
for printing the model matte photo paper with a density of 170-180 g / m2; for small parts - 70-80 g / m2.

before assembling the part, read the drawings and instructions. Locate each part and imagine assembling it;
make holes in the details before cutting the part itself;
cut only the part (s) you need right now. Place unfused parts in a box, and unused sheets in a closed folder (as an option). When throwing out trash after work, carefully inspect the paper scraps;
for a better bend of the part, it is necessary to draw under the ruler along the fold line, slightly pressing, with the blunt side of a knife or a toothpick so as not to damage the surface of the paper. It is better to do this from the wrong side of the part;
keep your fingers clean and be sure to use wipes to wipe your hands, because your hands can get dirty during work;
wrap cylindrical parts before gluing on a round object of a suitable diameter, this will give them a shape;
before gluing, it is necessary to paint over the ends of the part. White trim lines spoil the overall look of the model. Use watercolors or gouache paints to paint the ends. Having found the desired color, apply them in a thin layer, then let the paint dry. It is better to forget about felt-tip pens;
take your time with gluing. First, cut out the part, paint over it from the end, wait for the paint to dry, assemble the part. Attach it to where it should be to make sure everything is done correctly. And only then glue. Do not forget to let the glue dry.

Photo-assembly instructions

Paper model of a box for WALL-I

Paper model of a rubbish cube for WALL-I

Paper model of a fire extinguisher for WALL-I