Insulating the steam room from the inside step by step instructions. Modern sauna insulation: what is the secret and the tricks? The better to insulate the steam room from the inside

Bath insulation - what is needed for work

Do-it-yourself bath insulation from the inside will save money on work and heating. It is not a shame to invite friends to a comfortable bath, exuding warmth and coziness. A unique microclimate can be maintained by high-quality thermal insulation, competently made of good materials. The work is laborious, but anyone who has the necessary knowledge and skillful hands can cope with it.

Thermal insulation of a bath from the inside differs from thermal insulation work in ordinary rooms by the conditions in which the materials find themselves. First of all, it is humidity, especially in the steam room and washing room, and in other rooms the air is not dry. Therefore, the insulation must either not absorb moisture, or it must be reliably protected from steam and moisture. In the steam room, the temperature can even rise above 100 °. Materials such as polystyrene, expanded polystyrene deform at high temperatures, emit substances harmful to health. For the same reason, plastic or linoleum is never used in the bath. Some of the heat is lost as infrared radiation, so a foil layer is needed to reflect the rays.

To insulate the bath, you will definitely need a foil heat-resistant hydro-vapor barrier

In addition to the heat insulator, other materials will be required, in particular, the lathing. For stone, brick baths, it is better to use a drywall profile. The CD ceiling profile is usually used, the UD guide is used for edging around the perimeter. The suspensions are fixed at an average of 0.7 m, the distance between the profiles is slightly less than the width of the insulation. In a wooden bath, instead of a plasterboard profile, it is advisable to use bars, they are cheaper and will last as long as the walls.

You will need a foil heat-resistant hydro-vapor barrier. for example, penotherm. It is able to protect walls from dampness, reflect infrared rays, and additionally insulate the room due to the presence of foam. For wooden baths, it can be used as the main material for insulation. On top of the insulating layer, they arrange a finishing from the lining. Linden or aspen is considered the best material, they are durable even in such difficult conditions, moreover, they do not burn.

How to insulate - an overview of artificial and natural materials

When choosing a material for insulation, one should be guided by quality characteristics. A good insulation should provide reliable vapor and waterproofing, be environmentally friendly, not fire hazardous. There are many materials for insulation - artificial and traditional from natural raw materials. If you are a fan of absolute environmental friendliness, then, of course, choose natural material. But you should be aware that without preliminary processing, such material is seriously threatened by mold, rodents, insects. Artificial materials are of the best quality, it is easier to work with them.

Natural materials for insulation, such as moss, linseed tow, hemp have been used for a long time. They are cheap or completely free, highly environmentally friendly, and fill the bathhouse with a special natural aroma. But they are short-lived, they need to be constantly updated, and it is difficult and time-consuming to work with them. Of natural materials, perhaps, one expanded clay is convenient for work, durable. It is moisture resistant, lightweight, durable. Thanks to these qualities, expanded clay is used for floor insulation in baths.

From synthetic materials, extruded polystyrene foam, mineral and glass wool are suitable for insulating a bath from the inside. Each of the materials has unique properties:

1. 1. Expanded polystyrene is a reliable heat insulator of low cost and light weight. It is fire hazardous, does not withstand high temperatures, therefore it is used only in the dressing room and other similar rooms, except for the washing department and the steam room.
2. 2. Mineral wool is a durable, fireproof, non-hygroscopic material. It is produced in the form of sheets or mats, with which it is convenient to work. It is easy to damage it, so you should work with mineral wool carefully.
3. 3. Glass wool is made of interwoven extremely thin glass fibers. The material contains a lot of air, due to which it has a heat-saving effect. Available in rolls or slabs.
4. 4. Basalt fiber is expensive, but it can be an ideal material for bath insulation. The basis is made up of molten rocks, so the insulation does not burn, is not afraid of mechanical deformation and moisture, and keeps heat well. It is convenient to work with it, cutting into pieces of the required size.

The choice is influenced by the material of the walls. If the bath is brick, stone, concrete and similar materials, it is necessary to insulate. This is necessary in order to retain heat and extend the service life of the building, because the walls from high humidity and very large temperature fluctuations will begin to collapse. A wooden bathhouse itself is warm, but it won't get any worse from the insulating layer. It is recommended to insulate, if the timber is less than 15 cm thick, log baths with walls less than 20 cm thick. If the log walls are thicker, thermal insulation for the bath is not needed, or a waterproofing layer is used, which is then covered with clapboard.

To keep your feet warm - warm floor without heating

It will be necessary to insulate the floor from the inside if this operation was previously skipped. The base of the non-insulated floor can be concrete or wood. For a concrete floor, expanded polystyrene or expanded clay is suitable for insulation. Expanded polystyrene is better extruded - more dense than foam, capable of withstanding a large load. There is no need to worry about the threat to health - waterproofing and screed will protect against harmful emissions.

We carry out waterproofing with rolled bituminous material, dense polyethylene or mastic. They must cover the base and walls to a thickness equal to the insulation layer with the screed. On top of the waterproofing, we fill in expanded clay or lay PPS slabs. We close up the gaps between the sheets using scraps of expanded polystyrene, polyurethane foam, and we simply level the expanded clay. We lay another membrane over the top, glue the joints with adhesive tape, creating a bag that does not allow moisture to pass through.

Insulation is laid on top of the waterproofing

For waterproofing, fill in a reinforced screed. If we use expanded clay, the thermal insulation of the floor will improve. On the frozen floor, you can put a finish on top.

We insulate the wooden floor in a similar way. We treat wood with antiseptics, use mineral wool or glass wool as insulation. We lay the waterproofing, logs on it, the insulator is tightly between them. Cover the top with two layers of bitumen-impregnated material. We glue the waterproofing membrane with tape, lay a plank floor on top. Alternatively, we use plywood, on top of which we make a screed.

If the cold plank floor can be disassembled, then it is better to insulate it from the base. Select the ground shallowly, take it out, ram the base. We fill it with a 10-15 cm layer of sand and gravel, tamp and lay the waterproofing material. Cover the membrane with expanded clay or lay other material. We prepare a solution of cement and sand 1: 1, fill in the rough screed. After its setting, we make a finishing reinforced screed.

Warm walls and ceiling - complete comfort for vacationers

We begin to insulate the walls of the bath from the inside with surface preparation - we seal, insulate the cracks, we treat wooden surfaces with solutions from mold, fungi, fire. The insulating cake has the following structure:

1. 1. We attach bars or a profile for drywall to the wall;
2. 2. Between them we put a heat insulator;
3. 3. Apply a waterproofing layer on it;
4. 4. Above, a wooden crate;
5. 5. Completes all finishing.

Before installing the battens, be sure to measure the width of the insulating material. The indicated dimensions do not always correspond to the actual ones; moreover, the edges could be slightly deformed during transportation. We install the lathing with a step slightly smaller than the width of the material so that it enters between the lathing with little effort. In places where the heat insulator is loose, where there are gaps, cold penetrates and condensation forms. The height of the battens must correspond to the thickness of the insulation.

Bars are attached to the wall, between which the heat insulator is placed

Between the bars, we lay the insulation tightly, avoiding gaps. If the distance is chosen correctly, the heat insulator is held on the wall without additional fastening, but stainless or hot-dip galvanized screws with washers can be used for security. We glue the foil heat insulator at the joints with aluminum tape for tightness. We also glue the places of contact of the insulation with the crate, capturing at least 5 cm of the insulation and the timber. Sealing of joints is very important, moisture penetrating into the insulation layer greatly increases its thermal conductivity.

Thermal insulation of a bath from the inside is not limited to a heat-insulating layer. We protect it from moisture - it is better to use foil vapor barrier in the steam room and in the washing compartment. which will also reflect heat. The room will heat up faster, heating costs will decrease, and the oven will last longer. For the rest of the rooms, you can apply a different material. We lay the strips, overlapping one another by 5 cm, fasten them with staples using a stapler. We close the joints and places where the staples are hammered with foil tape. We do not leave a gap between the insulation and the vapor barrier layer.

We attach a lathing of wooden slats of 20 mm thickness to the bars for mounting the lining. The thickness is selected to provide a gap between the batten and the vapor barrier. We fasten the lathing vertically so that the condensate can drain between the vapor barrier layer and the lining, then it will last longer.

To ensure the drainage of condensate, we fasten the lathing on the walls horizontally, under the lining - vertically, the finishing layer will turn out to be horizontal.

Ceiling insulation does not differ from wall insulation, except that we start working with the ceiling earlier than with the walls. It should be borne in mind some of the features of ceiling insulation. Since most of the heat is collected at the top, the insulation layer is made thicker than on the walls. We provide a small overlap of insulating layers on the walls. When insulating the walls, we put it on the wall material, glue the joints with foil tape.

Windows and doors - haven't you forgotten about them?

A significant proportion of heat also escapes through leaking windows and doors. We make the door for the steam room small, with the minimum allowable size. We raise the threshold above the floor level by 25 cm to block the path of cold air from the adjacent room. The door leaf is made of wood, the boards are tightly fitted. Additionally, the doors can be insulated like walls. We seal the door frame and door leaf so that there are no cracks.

We do not make the windows in the bathhouse large, with the exception of the rest room. Frames must be double-glazed so that the air inside serves as a heat insulator. We install the glass on a sealant, it turns out that a glass unit impervious to cold air is obtained. The gaps between the opening and the frame are reliably sealed with mineral wool, and a layer of waterproofing is applied on top.

We hope that the article has dispelled the misconception that thermal insulation of a bath is a simple matter. It turns out that it has its own specifics, first of all it concerns the choice of materials and installation. Once again, we draw attention to the reliable sealing of all layers. If you do the job carefully, following the advice, the bath will bring true pleasure from being in it.

How to insulate a bath from the inside with your own hands?

Thermal insulation of the bath from the inside is an important stage in the construction of this specific structure. First of all, special attention is paid to the ceiling and floor of the log bath.

How to properly insulate a bath from the inside

Insulation of the bath from the inside is also necessary because this structure must maintain a constantly high temperature inside its walls for a long time.

Therefore, before insulating the bath from the inside, you need to carefully study this issue and prevent heat loss.

1 Features of bath insulation

It is worth considering that the service life of a wooden bathhouse built by your own hands, when significant heat loss occurs, is rapidly reduced.

If you do not do the waterproofing of the walls and the dressing room with your own hands, then there will always be an overestimated level of humidity inside, heaters for saunas and baths will help to avoid this.

This can lead to sad consequences, for example, the logs will slowly rot, which will lead to the appearance of unpleasant odors within the dressing room.

Currently, it is important to insulate a bath, and in particular a dressing room, using expanded clay concrete blocks or wooden beams; thermal insulation of baths and saunas using these materials is quite effective.

Before that, you can consider the issue of correcting the brickwork, if it has defects in some places. Particular attention is paid to the thermal insulation of the dressing room and the walls, do not forget about insulating the steam room with your own hands.

The thermal insulation layer can be combined with the use of expanded clay concrete blocks. To ensure the thermal insulation of the dressing room with your own hands in the room, before the floor is installed, the soil is dug to a depth of 50 centimeters with an orientation to the expected level of the finished floor.

On top of the foam, a sand-cement mixture is poured, this is especially important if the bath and the walls of the dressing room are built of bricks with their own hands.

For insulation of brickwork, foam crumbs can be used, the thickness of which should be 50 millimeters.

The scheme, with the orientation towards which the insulation is made, allows the use of vermiculite, the thickness of which must correspond to the thickness of the brickwork.

1.1 Waterproofing a bath from a bar

On top of the solution, with which the space between the brickwork is poured with our own hands, the reinforcing mesh is fixed, which is equipped with cells of 100 × 100 millimeters.

Laying wooden floors with holes made in them for the outflow of water are laid only after the cement mortar has completely hardened.

In most cases, the waterproofing layer is formed in the space between the layer of vermiculite-enriched mortar and the concrete layer.

According to this principle, waterproofing work can be carried out inside brick walls. The technology changes somewhat in the event that the bath is built using a bar.

If the bath is built of a bar, then the use of expanded clay concrete blocks is permissible, while the material of the walls does not have a particular effect on the process. In this case, any insulation for the walls of the bath can be chosen.

Bath insulation in progress

After that, the upper part of the flooring can be equipped with electric heated floors to create the most comfortable conditions in the log sauna.

In the base of the structure, you can lay a line that provides autonomous heating. If there is no need to install a wooden floor in a timber bath, then the use of warm floors will be most relevant.

The most suitable material can be laid on top of the timber that can be used to cover the floor. For example, this can be a tile that is laid on top of a concrete base. Removable wooden grates can be placed on top of the floor.

2 Insulation of the walls of the steam room

Even if the bath was insulated using expanded clay concrete blocks, then after two or three years it can shrink by 100-200 millimeters.

This is especially likely if wooden beams or logs served as the main material for making the walls. Here, the main indicators directly depend on the degree of moisture resistance of the building material.

Currently, in addition to expanded clay concrete blocks, such an alternative material as eurolining can be used. The selection of insulation for a bath can be started with this material.

Euro lining is made of valuable wood species. Indicators of expanded clay blocks are inferior to the presented finishing material. Consider Rockwool Sauna Butts as an alternative to steam baths.

When sheathing with such material, a number of unforeseen difficulties may arise, this may be due to inaccurate adherence to the technology of mounting the lathing, on which the lining is subsequently attached.

It is not recommended to nail the frame of the lathing to the logs using ordinary nails and thus fasten the lining to the lathing. Do-it-yourself thermal insulation of a bath when implementing this method turns out to be very durable.

Thermal insulation of a bath from the inside - walls, floor, ceiling

This combination can greatly interfere with the natural shrinkage process. This will lead to cracks and chips in the structure of the material, which in turn will negatively affect the amount of heat in the bath. In addition, you can apply other finishing methods based on:

• The use of grooves for fastening the battens;
• Using a layer of fiberglass;
• Application of aluminum foil;
• Using nails.

The grooves can reach a length of 15-20 centimeters and are sawn on the edges of those slats that are intended to form the lathing.

A jigsaw can help with this, which cuts at a distance of 50 centimeters. Nails can also be driven into the slots of the slats, which will lead to a reliable fixation of the structure and suspend the shrinkage of the bath.

2.1 How to properly insulate the ceiling?

Thermal insulation of the ceiling of a bath consists of several stages. First, a previously prepared layer of fiberglass is placed on top of the draft ceiling layer.

This is feasible if you plan to create a completely wooden floor. After that, a layer of clay-sandy layer is created, which must include sawdust from finely chopped straw. This solution is poured over the prepared glass fabric.

The thickness of the layer can reach 30 centimeters, then a clay-sand solution is poured into which vermiculite can be included.

The thickness of the pouring of such a solution should be 50 millimeters. Depending on the weather conditions, the solution may dry out within two to three weeks.

Do-it-yourself bath insulation

After its final drying, a foam plate is placed on top, with a thickness parameter of 100-150 millimeters.

On top of the foam, a final layer of cement-sand mortar is poured, which can be mixed with a certain amount of foam crumbs.

In the event that roofing felt or roofing felts are planned to be laid on top of the heat-insulating layer, then the construction of an attic room can be planned.

The fastening of the battens is carried out with an orientation of a gap equal to 500 millimeters. This is carried out at the very bottom of the ceiling covering, below the surface of the roughing board.

2.2 The choice of thermal insulation material for the bath floor

Currently, the following materials are especially popular for warming the bath floor:

In most cases, materials such as expanded clay and slag are used to insulate wooden floors.

Expanded clay differs in a rather low cost, therefore its use is economically feasible. It is distinguished by a high degree of environmental friendliness and extremely successfully withstands mechanical stress and sudden changes in temperature.

However, the thickness of the layer of such material should be equal to 20 centimeters. The very process of floor insulation with the participation of expanded clay and slag is quite laborious.

Insulation of the walls of the bath from the inside on your own

For better performance, different slag fractions should be used in combination with expanded clay. Polyfoam also serves as an effective floor insulation. Insulation for saunas and baths Isover Sauna serves as a good alternative to it.

It is incredibly easy to use and fairly affordable. For the production of such an insulation material, a foamed plastic mixture is used.

By the way, during laboratory studies, it turned out that the arising convection flows cannot occur in the same foam cell.

It is important to know that any type of foam will not work to create an insulating layer. So, for example, under the influence of vapors from the layers of some paints and varnishes, the structure of expanded polystyrene can undergo rapid destruction.

For wooden floors, so-called wood wool can be used quite often. It is able to create an insulating layer not only on a wooden surface, but also on concrete.

For this, special mats can be used. This material is able to provide effective insulation, and its installation does not require the involvement of additional equipment and complex manipulations.

Ordinary ceramic tiles can also serve not only as a finishing material, but also as a good means for floor insulation. Such a product can only be used in those baths that are equipped with concrete floors.

How and with what to insulate the bath from the inside with your own hands?

Why is it a good idea to insulate a bath from the inside?

Speaking about the bath, it should be noted that a unique microclimate prevails in it. When arranging this structure, an important point is creation of high-quality thermal insulation... Having decided to insulate the walls and ceiling in the bath with your own hands, you need to be prepared for the fact that this work will require a lot of effort. However, with a great desire and time, you can easily cope with this task.

When insulating a steam room, the following factors must be taken into account:

• material that is used to insulate the bath from the inside;
• knowledge and skills of the owner, own desire.

When choosing a material for warming a bath, it is necessary to focus on the characteristics of the insulation. It is worth knowing that not all materials are suitable for bath insulation.

Suitable insulation materials for this structure are those that have the following properties:

All the variety of heaters currently offered on the market can be divided into two types:

If you want the bath to be insulated with environmentally friendly materials, then when choosing, you should pay attention to natural insulation. They are manufactured based on organic components... These include:

These materials have many advantages, but they also have certain disadvantages. If you do not process them with special compounds, then during the operation of the bath, mold and insects will appear on such insulation.

In order for the insulation of the bath to turn into a simple process from the inside, it is necessary to use materials of artificial origin during the work. They have many important advantages. They are resistant to fire, are not subject to decay processes, and provide an effective vapor barrier. Installation of such materials does not take much time. In this they are superior to natural insulation.

Materials for insulating a bath from the inside

When purchasing a heat-insulating material, it is necessary to make a choice not only in favor of natural or artificial insulation. At the stage of purchasing material, you need to take into account a number of other factors:

Classification of heaters

If you focus on such a factor as mechanical properties of the material... then all the materials that can be used to insulate the walls of the bath inside can be divided into the following types:

• backfills of various densities;
• mats and fibers;
• wall blocks and slabs.

For such a parameter as chemical composition of the material... all heaters are divided into the following types:

• organic. These include ecowool, fibrolite;
• inorganic substances. The group of these materials includes mineral wool, glass wool from basalt fiber;
• technoinsulation. These include a technoblock and a technologist;
• heaters made on the basis of plastics. These include polystyrene and expanded polystyrene.

Each of the listed materials has its own pros and cons. For example, when insulating a steam room, it is better to abandon the use of heat-insulating materials based on plastics. This is due to the fact that such heaters under the influence of high temperatures highly flammable... However, they can be used for thermal insulation of other rooms in the bath. They are perfect for insulating a dressing room or rest room.

Materials based on organic substances are distinguished by their environmental friendliness and affordable prices. However, they are also highly flammable if not treated with special compounds.

Vapor barrier materials from the inside

There is a whole group of materials that are suitable for the vapor barrier of a bath.

When working on the vapor barrier of the steam room, you should refuse to use roofing material and glassine... This is due to the fact that, under the influence of high temperatures, these materials begin to release chemicals. When insulating baths, glassine is often used. Aluminum foil is often used in conjunction with clapboard, and mineral wool is widely used in bath houses.

How to insulate a bathhouse with your own hands from the inside?

The insulation scheme using fiber-based heat insulators is currently quite common. The technology of insulating a bath from the inside involves the following work.

First, you need to create a wireframe on the surface of the insulated wall. To do this, it runs fastening the lathing from the beams... which are placed horizontally and vertically. Note that the thickness of the timber should exceed the insulation by 20-30 mm.

Next, the wall is clad with mineral wool. When the material is installed, a vapor barrier layer is applied. Most often, foil material is used to create it. Note that it must be overlapped. The joints of the material must be sealed with thin strips. A distance of about 3 cm should be left between the vapor barrier and mineral wool layers.

The effectiveness of this method is quite high, since it has been used to insulate the walls of the bath from the inside for a long time. However, you should be aware that, having made a choice in favor of this option for thermal insulation, you will have to spend a lot of effort on creating a high-quality insulation structure. Modern materials offered on the market will reduce the labor intensity of such insulation. Insulation materials often combine several properties at once: they provide effective insulation and waterproofing. Foil foam is just such a material. It is characterized by high resistance to fire. In addition, it provides ease of use and installation.

The scheme described above is ideal for baths built from a bar. Insulation of frame walls and panel-type buildings has its own characteristics. If the walls in the bathhouse are panel, then the choice is made in favor of light materials. The most commonly used polystyrene foam, reed slabs, mineral wool. In this case, the processing of the heat insulator is a mandatory requirement. As a composition for its protection from harmful negative factors, they use lime milk followed by drying. The use of such protection will exclude the occurrence of decay processes. In addition, the fire resistance of the material will increase.

If the bath has frame walls, then in a cold climate, when it is insulated, fibrolite or reed slabs are used. In areas with a mild climate, the choice is made in favor of gypsum, sawdust. For wall insulation, for example, a mixture of sawdust and plaster can be used. The material is taken in a ratio of 1:10. The finished mixture is poured between the walls and the cladding with a layer of 200 mm.

Insulation of the ceiling in the steam room of the bath

Work on the creation of thermal protection in the bath is completed by the insulation of the ceiling. The complexity and order of work depends on the design of the ceiling itself. It can be with or without an attic.

In the event that the bath has an attic or attic, then the insulation process should take place as follows: board coated with clay with a layer of 20 cm... This material does a good job of retaining moisture. Wood chips must be poured into the cracks between the boards. If not, you can use any other material that provides good thermal insulation. For example, you can backfill with expanded clay. But the thickness of the layer of this material must be at least 200 mm.

Thermal insulation of a bath without an attic

A bathhouse without an attic, made of a log or representing a panel building, must be insulated inside in a completely different way:

first, the material for the vapor barrier is laid, then the insulation is attached, onto which the beam bar is sewn. Later shelving boards are nailed .

When insulating the ceiling of a bath, special attention should be paid to the joint between the pipe and the insulation. So that fire safety standards are not violated, it is necessary to make an indent of 200 mm between the pipe and the heat-insulating material. This task is easily solved by creating a box of rafter legs. It will be a barrier separating the pipe and insulation. The space inside the box can be filled with fire-resistant insulation, for example, stone wool.

It is optimal if the roof of the bath is designed in such a way that there are no places through which warm air can escape from the room and cold air can penetrate outside. Ceiling insulation has another goal - avoid condensation... Condensation is converted to moisture, which in turn is the main enemy of most building materials.

Note that not all materials are suitable for ceiling insulation work. It is worth abandoning the use of materials such as chipboard, plywood, fiberboard for thermal insulation. They can not only deform during operation, but also release substances harmful to human health when exposed to high temperatures.

Conclusion

Thermal insulation of a bathhouse from the inside is an important work that every owner of this building must carry out, who wants to visit the bathhouse and not experience discomfort. Although this job is not easy, everyone can do it. If you have the time and the necessary knowledge on how to properly insulate a bath from the inside, then by choosing the right materials and following the advice of experienced craftsmen, you can create high-quality thermal protection... After the insulation has been carried out, you will enjoy every visit to the bath. There will be no cold in the building, it will warm up quickly, and fuel costs will be minimal.

Do-it-yourself bath insulation from the inside

It happens that you go to the bathhouse with a desire to relax, not only banal to wash, but also to get rid of the burden of problems and worries, and as a result, either the temperature does not hold at all, or it is impossible to steam, or, on the contrary, the heat is unbearable and there is practically nothing to breathe. In this case, of course, there can be no talk of any pleasure, a visit to the bath turns into a sheer hassle. The main reason for the uncomfortable microclimate in the bath is considered to be incorrect thermal insulation. It is she who is responsible for maintaining a certain temperature in the premises, as well as for saving fuel needed to warm up the bath.

Popular misconceptions

Most people do not pay due attention to thermal insulation, believing that it is enough just to upholster the walls with insulating material. In fact, insulating a bath from the inside with your own hands is a rather complicated process that requires taking into account many factors.

Sometimes an excessive striving for naturalness and naturalness plays a bad role. In pursuit of environmental friendliness, the owner of the bath decides to insulate it with moss. Indeed, this is a product of natural origin, but when used in rooms with high humidity, it quickly decays, not only emitting unpleasant odors, but also quickly infecting the tree with rot.

Bath insulation materials

If we have already started talking about the fact that some heat insulators are not suitable for a bath, we cannot but say about what can be used, and what are the pros and cons of other materials.

1. Mineral insulation (basalt fiber, mineral and glass wool) are ideal for bath insulation. As a rule, they are produced in the form of slabs or mats. Such materials have a very high durability, they are moisture-proof and fire-resistant, and also absolutely not subject to decay. Most often, the insulation of the bath from the inside is carried out with the help of them.
2. Organic materials (wood concrete, fibrolite and others) are made from peat, reeds or wood waste. Typically, these are slabs of a wide variety of sizes that can be used even in climates with very low temperatures. Unfortunately, despite its high thermal insulation properties and its low cost, such insulation is not recommended for use in saunas, as it quickly ignites. True, now there are many substances on the market, after processing with which both fiberboard and reeds, and other organic heat insulators become fireproof, but still it is better not to risk and not insulate them at least the walls of the steam rooms.
3. Plastic-based materials (polystyrene, expanded polystyrene) are well suited for dressing rooms and rest rooms, but they are not recommended for use in steam rooms, again because of their high flammability.

Well, in conclusion, a few words about the materials for vapor barrier, which will also be needed when insulating a bath. The roofing felt and glassine most often used for this purpose should not be used for the interior of the bathhouse, since when heated, these materials release toxic substances, which, in conditions of high humidity, very quickly enter the human body through the lungs. It is best to use aluminum foil or foil-coated thermal insulation boards right away. The use of foil significantly reduces energy consumption for maintaining a comfortable temperature in the bath due to the shiny surface that perfectly reflects the heat back into the room.

Bath insulation from the inside

Insulation of a brick bath from the inside is almost no different from the insulation of timber or log buildings, therefore, within the framework of this article, we will not separate them. To make it easier to understand, we will give a description of the insulation of the bath from the inside with photos that allow us to understand certain details of the process.

Bath floor insulation

Thermal insulation of the bath from the inside, the scheme of work, considered traditional, recommends starting from the floor. This will not only reduce the degree of displacement of warm air by cold air rising from below, but also add comfort. Agree, it is much more pleasant to walk on a warm floor, especially in a hot steam room.

Baths usually fit one of two types of floors: solid and flowing. The designs are completely different, so it is not surprising that each type of insulation has its own characteristics.

1. When installing continuous floors, insulation (most often it is mineral wool) is laid on a rough plank floor and covered with a waterproofing layer so that its edges are on the walls. After that, you can proceed with the installation of the finished floor.
2. When installing leaking floors, it is necessary to dig a pit to a depth of about 500 mm. Further, it is filled with 50 mm of sand, which must be carefully tamped. As a heater, foam plates with a height of 200 mm are laid on this layer. They, in turn, are poured with a layer of cement with the addition of foam crumbs 1: 1 - 50 mm. Overlapping waterproofing is spread over the concrete on the walls. In this case, roofing material can also be used. While on the floor, this material does not heat up to a temperature at which it releases toxic substances. The next layer is again a layer of cement, but with the addition of vermiculite in the same ratio of 1: 1 - 50 mm. After spreading the reinforcing mesh, the floors are poured with concrete with the addition of fine gravel to a height of 50 mm, and at this stage a slope towards the drain is provided. The finished floors can now be laid on the posts.

Thermal insulation of walls and ceiling of a bath

It is best to insulate both of these elements of the structure at the same time, since the technology for laying thermal insulation from the inside for them practically does not differ.

So, let's look at insulation using the example of a steam room. First, it is necessary to apply a 50x50 lathing to the walls and ceiling, while the distance between the bars should be slightly less than the width of the insulation. This is done so that, straightening up in the resulting niches, the material takes its place more tightly, without the formation of "cold bridges". Basalt or mineral fiber slabs are best suited for this purpose.

After laying the heat insulator, it must be covered with a vapor barrier material. In principle, you can use any, but for baths, folmot cloth or any other vapor barrier trimmed with foil is best suited. Reflecting from the mirror surface, warm air will return to the room. Now you can start the interior cladding.

Advice: It is imperative to lay the foil vapor barrier materials with the reflective side inside the bath.

Important: The vapor barrier is not located between the bars, but is attached directly to them.

In the rest of the rooms of the bath, the internal insulation is carried out in the same way. The only difference is that you can use weaker thermal insulation materials, as well as use thick Kraft wrapping paper instead of foil.

Advice: Since brick or cinder block baths are characterized by high heat loss, the thickness of the basalt fiber should be increased when insulating them.

An increasing number of craftsmen prefer foil-coated foam. This insulation is immediately covered with metallized lavsan or foil and at the same time acts as a vapor barrier.

The video clip presented below will give complete and comprehensive information on how to properly insulate a bath from the inside.

The scheme of the "pie" of warming the walls of the bath from the inside

Before starting work, be sure to eliminate all flaws: seal and insulate the cracks, treat, if necessary, the walls with fire retardants and antiseptics, check the tightness of the joints, etc. After completing the preparatory work, you can proceed with the installation of thermal insulation.

The pie itself generally looks like this:

• the wall on which the bars are packed;
• a heat insulator laid between the bars;
• vapor barrier;
• lathing made of strips, which holds the materials and serves for the installation of finishes.

Bath wall insulation scheme

Step 1. A crate of bars is attached to the walls into which a heat insulator is tightly inserted. The thickness of the bars must correspond to the thickness of the thermal insulation. A vapor barrier is attached to the bars, as a rule, aluminum foil is used. After the foil, a lathing is attached under the lining with a thickness of 20-3 ohms, and then the walls are sheathed with lining.

1. There is no need to leave a gap between the insulation and aluminum foil in the bath;
2. It is advisable to leave the gap between the aluminum foil (or other foil material) and the clapboard so that the condensate can drain freely downward. Otherwise, the lining will rot very quickly.

We put the heat insulator tightly between the bars. The thickness of the insulation corresponds to the thickness of the bars

It is also necessary to decide on the direction in which the bars will be nailed to the wall. They can be nailed vertically and horizontally. Moreover, there is a constant debate about how to do it better. Some builders claim that with a horizontal arrangement of the heat insulator, and therefore the bars, there is less heat loss. Opponents say that vertical placement provides better ventilation. More importantly, everyone chooses for himself, as well as whether or not the bars need to be treated with antiseptics and fire retardants.

Advice! It makes sense to think not about how to fix the bars, but first of all about how the lining will be mounted: horizontally or vertically. It is more practical to mount the lining horizontally. In this case, condensate, which will inevitably form on the vapor barrier, will be able to drain down unhindered, so the lathing under the lining will be mounted vertically.

The step of packing the bars, under the insulation, is determined by the width of the selected heat insulator: the distance between the bars should be about 1 cm less than the actual width of the insulation(in this case, the insulation will fit snugly against the bars).

Advice! Be sure to measure the width of the insulation before attaching the bars. Do not trust the data on the packaging: firstly, there may be factory deviations, and secondly, during storage and transportation, the edges may wrinkle, thereby reducing the actual width. Any gap and loose heat insulator is a place where cold will penetrate and condensation will form. These areas are also called cold bridges.

Step 2. Between the packed bars, insulation is placed tightly, without gaps, with little effort. With the correct distance between the bars, the heat insulator holds itself well, but to be sure, you can fix it with hot-dip galvanized or stainless screws and large diameter washers.

If the foil heat insulator is chosen, to ensure tightness, close each joint with a patch of aluminum tape, and on top you need to fix another piece of foil on an adhesive basis - tightness is very important: most heat insulators lose their properties in the presence of moisture. For example, the thermal conductivity of wet basalt wool is much higher than that of dry. For this reason, the insulation must not be allowed to get wet.

Also, in this case, you need to carefully approach the sealing of the joints of foil-clad thermal insulation and bars: they must be glued with the same foil tape, ensuring that at least 5 cm is applied to both the insulation and the timber.

The joints must be glued with aluminum tape

For the steam room, we use foil to prevent the penetration of moisture into the insulation. It not only retains moisture well, but also reflects heat back into the room, greatly reducing its loss. If you choose such a material, the time required to heat the room will significantly decrease, the costs of maintaining the required temperature will decrease, the oven will work in a more gentle mode, which means it will last longer.

In other rooms, you can put any other material that is suitable for the performance characteristics.

The strips of the selected material are laid so that they overlap by at least 5 cm. All joints are additionally carefully glued with foil tape, which is sold in the same place as the vapor barrier. Attach it to the bars with staples and a construction stapler. To preserve the tightness and prevent steam from entering the thermal insulation, it is advisable to glue the joints with the same foil tape.

When the ceiling is insulated, there should be a "run" of the heat and vapor barrier on the walls. When installing wall insulation, put it on top of the wall "pie", and then carefully seal the joints (use foil tape again).

Step 3. After completing the installation of the "pie" on the protruding bars fill the crate from the slats. It will hold the materials and also serve as the basis for attaching the interior trim.

This is how the wall may look after the completion of all work: 1 - insulation, 2 - vapor barrier, 3 - lining

Features of wall insulation from different materials

The technology and sequence of insulation layers remains practically unchanged for various rooms and types of buildings. Only some parameters may change. For example, for a steam room, the thickness of the insulation is recommended twice as much as for other rooms... it is here that it is very important to keep warm for the maximum amount of time.

The thickness of the insulation also differs for buildings made of different materials. A log bath itself keeps heat well and when decorating all rooms except for the steam room, you can do without insulation at all, or choose a material of small thickness - if the winters in your region are harsh.

Insulation of the walls of a brick bath from the inside practically no different, except by the methods of fastening: it is more difficult to hammer nails into a brick wall, you can use dowels. You can use galvanized profiles instead of wooden bars, but when buying them, pay attention to the fact that they are suitable for use in rooms with high humidity. And with the choice of sizes it is much more difficult here: there are not so many standard sizes, and metal can become a conductor of cold. Insulation of the brick walls of a bath from the inside suggests a greater thickness of thermal insulation than in a log bath: minimum - 10cm... but this parameter depends on many factors: wall thickness, external insulation, region, etc.

Thermal insulation of the walls of the bath from foam blocks the composition of the "pie" does not differ. The whole difficulty is that this material does not hold fasteners well, even special ones. It also tolerates excessive loads no better. Therefore, when choosing materials, pay attention to their weight. It must become one of the decisive factors.

The foam block does not hold the mounts well

The fastening of the battens must be done so that the main load falls on the floor, and not on the walls. To do this, you can make U-shaped structures that are attached to the floor and ceiling, just fix their position in the walls with a pair of dowels.

Advice! To further reduce the load on the walls made of foam concrete, you can not fasten the strips tightly to the wall, but make clamps from pieces of galvanized steel, which will only hold the strips in a vertical state. In this case, the entire load will fall on the floor.

The insulation between the slats should be laid tightly, and you can fix it so that it does not fall, using a thread and a stapler (shoot the thread to the slats). The vapor barrier or vapor barrier can also be attached to the slats with staples, but do not forget to overlap the panels, as well as glue and seal the joints with foil tape, and close the staples with patches.

The last stage of warming the walls of the bath from foam blocks is the installation of a lathing for interior decoration. This is a similar frame made of U-shaped sections, the load from which is distributed mainly on the floor. This frame is attached to the first in several places to the bars.

This is just one solution that allows you to insulate the walls of a bath from foam blocks, but it is simple to perform and quite reliable.

Bath insulation materials

The choice of material for insulation is a rather complicated process: you need to take into account not only the technical characteristics of insulation, but also their environmental friendliness, harmlessness, fire safety. It is especially problematic to correctly choose a heater for a steam room, since there is not only high humidity in it, but also a high temperature, which is the reason for the release of toxic substances from some types of heaters.

Classic mineral wool

Not so long ago, almost everyone advised the use of mineral wool for warming a bath, but recent studies have shown that in production, a composition containing phenol formaldehyde resins... They have a harmful effect on humans, are carcinogenic, which in itself is unacceptable, and in a bath or sauna with its high temperature, it is generally very dangerous. Yes, the certificates indicate that the emission of these substances does not exceed the threshold, but do you need it?

Even basalt wool "Rockwool" or "Technonikol", any other mineral wool known or not from manufacturers, emit phenol-formaldehyde substances. In general, according to the assurances of doctors and experts, any mineral wool is harmful to health. In this regard, the question arises: "What is the best way to insulate the bath?" There are several materials about which there are no negative opinions. Anyway, until ...

Mineral heaters of a new generation

URSA PUREONE material is presented as a new generation mineral insulation. Acrylic is used as a binder - a chemically neutral substance that does not react with other substances and does not emit harmful substances under any operating conditions.

URSA PUREONE material is one of the harmless insulation materials

The safety of URSA PUREONE has been confirmed by the EcoStandard group (classified as Eurofins M1 material, EUCEB certified).

Certificate issued by URSA PUREONE -

Heaters made of glass, peat and paper

Foam glass FOAMGLAS® is foamed glass. It does not burn, does not lose its properties over time, is stable in shape, environmentally friendly and safe. Its only drawback: high price and rather heavy weight.

There are also peat-based heaters - peat blocks ... Crushed peat is soaked with water, filler is added - straw, sawdust, etc. from the resulting mushy mass, blocks are formed, which are used as a heat and sound insulator. The resulting material not only reduces heat loss, but is also a "breathable" material - it absorbs well and also gives off moisture well, has a bacteriostatic effect, does not burn or rot.

Peat block is not yet the most popular material

Despite all the positive qualities, peat blocks are not the most common material, and there are few manufacturers of this material. The most famous is the GeoKar enterprise from Tver. If all the declared qualities are confirmed, then this is a good alternative to mineral wool.

There is also such a heat insulator as ecowool ... This is a cellulosic substance, mostly consisting of recycled newspapers, which are supplemented with safe (according to manufacturers' assurances) flame retardants - boric acid and borax salts. Everything would be fine, but this material strongly absorbs moisture, and is not suitable for thermal insulation of a bath .

Fiberboard - are made from crushed wood chips, but using a different technology than the well-known fiberboard - without chemical binders. Chips are ground, diluted with water, distributed over a grid. The mass simply dries up, after which it is cut into canvases.

Among the safe heaters, one can also name natural heaters made of flax, wool, moss, and reeds. They are used as insulating material and sawdust, reeds and straw. But all these substances are flammable, and without treatment with special compounds, they cannot be used to insulate a bath.

Modern foil insulation

In this article, we could not help but talk about what modern insulation materials are used by the Finns in the construction of saunas. Hot Finnish Guys Use Insulation Plates SPU Sauna-Satu... specially designed for wall and ceiling insulation in a sauna.

SPU Sauna Satu boards are made of polyurethane foam and have an alumina coating on both sides.

Stove SPU Sauna-Satu

SPU Sauna Satu can be wall-mounted even without battens.

At the moment, it is the SPU Sauna Satu boards that can be attributed to the most suitable heaters for baths and saunas.

The main problems of bath insulation are associated with the insulation of the steam room, since it has not only very high humidity, but also a high temperature. Under the influence of high temperatures, many heaters begin to emit toxic substances that can harm human health. For this reason, it is necessary to carefully choose mineral wool-based insulation, since many of them contain phenol-formaldehyde resins, which act as a binder.

You should not use polystyrene and expanded polystyrene as insulation, which, when heated to 60 degrees Celsius, begin to emit toxic substances.

In fairness, it should be noted that many natural materials that are harmless at normal temperatures, when heated, can emit substances that can harm human health.

Do-it-yourself bath insulation from the inside

Warming a bath from the inside with your own hands Warming a bath - what is needed for work Warming a bath from the inside with your own hands will save money on work and heating. To a comfortable bath,

Do-it-yourself wooden bath insulation

One of the main characteristics of a bath is how quickly it warms up. The bath must warm up quickly, the high temperature must remain in the steam room for a sufficiently long time. The comfort of being in the bath depends on this. Its efficiency also largely depends on this, since it takes much less fuel to warm up the bath.

Thermal insulation of the bath ceiling should include: decorative trim (lining), reflective waterproofing, insulation (mineral wool), lathing and steam insulation.

Considering all this, the insulation of the bath is very important, and the quality of the material does not matter. Is it possible to insulate the bath with your own hands? And how to do it right? Before answering this question, it should be borne in mind that insulation is a special procedure. This is due to the fact that inside the room, for a long time, an unusual humidity-temperature regime remains. That is, the insulation must have a certain number of different properties.

If we talk about the qualities of insulation, then first of all it should show resistance to moisture. It must not disintegrate on contact with liquid. The insulation should be resistant to high temperatures, under their influence it should not form.

Scheme of warming the walls of a wooden bath.

As you know, a residential building is insulated from the outside, and a bath should be insulated from the inside. Certainly, the insulation of the bath from the inside contributes to the internal preservation of the required degree of moisture, that is, the temperature in the steam room.

It should be borne in mind that the base of the bath is lined with mats, which are made of mineral wool from the inside, and the density of such material should be increased from the inside, and not from the outside. In order not to get confused in this, you should tell in more detail about all the works. If all this is taken into account, then warming the bath with your own hands will not be a big problem.

On the inside, a crate should be made on the surface. It is necessary to fix insulation to it, which is moisture resistant. It is very important that the joints between the slabs are properly sealed. To achieve this, it is recommended to use aluminum tape. When the insulating layer is finally made, it was the turn to apply a roll-on vapor barrier. All this must be done with the utmost care, then everything will work out.

When the heat and vapor insulation is completely ready, you can start finishing the bath. For this purpose, a lining is used, which is made of wood. It should be borne in mind that such material is the most suitable for covering a wooden bath.

Floor insulation scheme in the bath.

Now you need to take into account the materials that can be used in this case. They fall into two categories: organic and material. The first type includes all sorts of materials that are made on the basis of mineral wool. Such materials include a number of advantages: the service life is very long, very high resistance to decay and increased resistance to moisture. It should be noted that there is an increased degree of fire hazard, which is a very important factor for wooden baths.

A separate group of materials for warming a bath consists of various kinds of polystyrene (expanded polystyrene, polyurethane foam, and so on). But it should be borne in mind that certain materials of this category during operation in a certain temperature regime can deform and emit gases, which negatively affects the state of health. If materials made of polystyrene are chosen for warming a bath or sauna, then they should be chosen with special care. When such insulation materials are purchased, special attention should be paid to whether there are appropriate sanitary and hygienic certificates.

The best organic insulation is made from wood waste, reeds or peat. In this regard, the most common materials are reeds and fibrolite. When using such materials, financial costs are significantly reduced. It should be borne in mind that such insulation materials can be used only where in winter the outside air temperature cannot fall below 17 degrees. In order to reduce the fire hazard of such materials, it is imperative to protect them from fungus. For this, the plates must be treated with a special compound.

Scheme of the features of the sauna ceiling insulation.

As for materials that are made on an organic basis (fiberboard and chipboard), they can only be used to insulate the dressing room.

Organic plates that have thermal insulating properties can be made by hand.

You need to get small chips, shavings or sawdust for this. They must be mixed with lime or cement mortar, then they are laid in the formwork of the appropriate shape and height. It is very important to tamp them as tightly as possible. After the mass hardens, excellent heat-insulating plates are obtained, which have a low cost price.

In order to vaporize the steam room, it is best to use foil. It can be replaced by other materials, for example, nanoisol or isospane. But it should be borne in mind that the cost of such materials is quite high, which will negatively affect the budget. You can significantly save money, while the quality characteristics will not suffer. You can use the most common polyethylene film as a vapor barrier, its density should be at least 140 microns.

For warming a bath, it is permissible to use a variety of materials; there are many of them on sale today. When it comes to insulating a bath from the inside, it is recommended to use materials that combine 2 properties: they retain heat and vaporize the room.

The most common material in this regard is expanded polypropylene, foil must be applied to its surface. The fact is that such a material perfectly withstands temperatures up to 150 degrees. It is noteworthy that such material does not undergo deformation under the influence of constant dampness. When such insulation materials are purchased, care should be taken to ensure that they are labeled “for the sauna”. Similar materials can be used when insulating a bath outside. And all this is done without much difficulty.

Additional Information

When the bath is insulated, one should not forget that it is necessary to insulate not only the walls, but also the roof. The most effective way to prevent heat leakage through the roof is to coat it with a mixture made of clay and sawdust.

The screed must be covered with a special roofing film, then everything must be sprinkled with peat, which must be mixed with sawdust.

If everything is done properly, then there is no doubt that all work will be completed successfully. In order to achieve this, you should strictly adhere to the instructions. If done correctly, the result will exceed all expectations.

Recommendations for warming a wooden bath with your own hands. Materials and tools required for this. Characteristics of materials. Additional Information.

Thermal insulation of the bath from the inside: scheme and procedure for work

A visit to the bathhouse is a healthy pastime that makes you feel more energized and younger. It is not surprising that the owners erect this structure with pleasure on their plots and dachas.

However, the simple construction of walls in this case does not end there. In order for the bath to be cozy at any time of the year, it will have to be properly insulated from the inside.

What is it for?

A special microclimate should be present in the bath, giving a good health-improving effect. It is for this purpose that walls and ceilings are insulated. Floors are usually insulated from the cold during the construction phase. But the walls and ceiling can be tackled a little later, at a convenient time for the owners.

Before starting work, you need to understand three important points for yourself:

• possession of construction skills - for some, the process of warming is not a problem, others will experience tangible difficulties, since they faced such a task for the first time;
• financial capacity is also an important factor, which is often decisive;
• the choice of a suitable material corresponding to both the financial capabilities and the construction skills of a particular person.

Perhaps it will be easier to contact specialists in this field and save your time and nerves? Each situation must be considered individually and the right decision must be made.

Thermal insulation solves the following problems:

• provides protection of the supporting structure from steam;
• prevents water penetration;
• increases the resistance of the structure to possible ignition.

And if expensive and environmentally friendly material is chosen, this is another additional plus for the owners.

What material is suitable?

Warming is carried out both with the help of artificial and completely natural materials... The natural origin of the insulation is a guarantee of the environmental friendliness of the building and its safety during operation. However, such material is often more expensive than artificial insulation.

Natural materials include cuckoo flax, sphagnum, hemp, tow, felt, moss. It is a safe choice, ensuring the sustainability and authenticity of the building. But without proper treatment, such building materials quickly rot and are attacked by rodents and insects. These disadvantages should be remembered at the stage of selection!

Artificial building materials are easy to install, resistant to fire and biological effects. Installing them on the ceiling or walls can be much faster. The price of many artificial specimens will be lower, as will the material consumption.

Nuances of choice

It is important to take into account other factors such as technical characteristics, purpose, appearance..

For cladding baths from the inside and providing vapor barrier, the following are most often used:

Aluminum foil, which perfectly reflects heat into the room, thereby reducing energy consumption. This material can be used, among other things, for the treatment of steam rooms.

Roofing material- a fairly cheap material, which, nevertheless, cannot be called environmentally friendly. Under the influence of high temperatures, roofing material releases hazardous chemical compounds into the air. For this reason, it is not used in doubles.

Similar qualities are possessed by glassine... More often it is used for bath rooms in conjunction with other building materials. The ideal "pie" in this case looks like this: frame - glassine - sheathing with mineral wool - installation of aluminum foil - lining.

The cheapest option is to use roll polyethylene... This solution is suitable for country cottages, where the baths are operated with a low intensity.

The chemical composition of the insulation is also important. The environmental characteristics of the bathhouse depend on it:

• polystyrene and polystyrene foam are made from plastics;
• technoblock and technovet are techno-heaters;
• basalt fiber, glass wool and mineral wool are classic inorganic materials;
• wood concrete, ecowool and fibrolite are materials of organic (natural) origin.

According to their mechanical properties, all building materials can be divided into backfills, blocks or slabs, mats and fibers.

Important points

You should not start work if there are doubts about building skills and the owner holds the tools for almost the first time in his life. The help of specialists in such a situation will be very appropriate.

In other cases, you can successfully use general recommendations and tips to avoid annoying mistakes.

When working with walls, it is important:

1. Thoroughly treat the floors with special solutions that protect the wood from fungus, mold and decay.
2. Provide ventilation gaps. Through these technical holes, the insulation dries up and it lasts longer.
3. Pay attention to tight installation (adhere to the walls). The closer the insulation material is to the wall, the lower the likelihood of accidental penetration of cold air and the formation of condensation.

Installation of insulation on the walls

And when working with ceilings, you must:

1. Do not choose materials made of plastic, as they collect a large amount of moisture.
2. Give preference to building materials that do not emit harmful substances when heated. Roofing material and glassine are prohibited.
3. Avoid materials subject to deformation. Under the influence of high temperatures and steam, such a heater will quickly sag.

Work order

When insulating walls, you can use the traditional building scheme (it is ideal for baths built from a bar):

1. At the first stage, a timber frame is erected. For this, beams are used with a margin of thickness of 20-30 millimeters. Of these, vertical and horizontal battens are mounted.
2. Then sheathing is carried out with mineral wool or another selected material.
3. A vapor barrier layer is attached on top. For example, from foil. The material is overlapped, and all joints are reinforced with wooden slats.
4. At the final stage, the lathing is mounted under the lining. The distance between the lining and the layer of vapor barrier material provides the necessary ventilation gap for the structure.

For frame or panel construction of a structure typical for a cold climate, lightweight building materials are suitable - expanded polystyrene, reed slabs or mineral wool. In this case, the selected material is processed with milk of lime, dried and placed in the inter-wall space. In regions with a warmer climate, you can use backfills: sawdust, a mixture of cement (gypsum) and wood shavings in a ten to one ratio.

Ready-made solutions are also successfully used - materials consisting of several layers and possessing all the necessary qualities. For example, foil-based foam, which simultaneously provides heat retention and reliable waterproofing.

An important point: all corners, joints in the area of ​​windows and doors are treated with vapor barrier tape!

Working with ceilings

Insulation of ceilings completes the entire construction process. For this part of the structure, you can choose fiberboard, chipboard or plywood... It is better not to use materials with a plastic base, especially in a steam room, where the temperature at the ceiling often reaches 160 degrees.

It is important to exclude places where warm air will escape outside, and cold air will penetrate inside. Such gaps will become the weak point of the entire structure due to the abundant formation of condensed moisture.

The area near the pipe is insulated with a box filled with stone wool. The distance from the main insulation to the hot pipe must be at least 200 millimeters, so as not to violate fire safety standards!

The process of laying insulation will depend on the design of the ceilings..

If there is no attic, regardless of the material of the supporting structure, the following installation scheme is performed:

If there is an attic or attic, the ceiling boards are coated with clay, and the cracks are covered with wood chips. Expanded clay can also be used for backfilling. This ensures that the thickness of the thermal insulation layer is at least 20 centimeters.

How to insulate a bathhouse from the inside with your own hands?

Thermal insulation of baths from the inside: what is it for. What materials can be used, important points and subtleties of choice. The order of work with walls and ceilings, recommendations and advice.

How and what to insulate a bathhouse, sauna, steam room inside and out

Traditions, the health-improving effect of the bath, the utilitarian necessity or the way of organizing leisure time - these are some of the arguments in favor of your own bath. Owners of private houses and country cottages, equipping a bath, are faced in the process of construction and operation with such issues as the need to ensure a slow cooling of bath rooms. The solution is to insulate the walls, floor and ceiling of the bath. Let's see how to do it right.

Do I need to insulate the bath?

Yes, you need, thermal insulation:

• helps to increase the inertia of the bath, as a result - it warms up longer, but cools down much longer;
• minimizes heat consumption;
• reduces heating costs;
• ensures the achievement of an optimal microclimate;
• increases moisture control;
• protects against biological activity (fungus, mold).

To get all the benefits listed, you need to take care of the correct insulation of the bath, sauna, steam room. At the same time, there are no obstacles for independent thermal insulation: the scope of work is small, the technology is not complicated, the material and tools are available. Recommendations and step-by-step instructions will help organize the process "from A to Z", even for beginners with no experience in construction.

How to insulate a bath with your own hands

A detailed analysis of how and how you can insulate the bath, which side is better (inside or outside), where to start and how to finish.

1.From the position of the location of the insulation

• External insulation of a bath... When insulating a house, basement or garage, it has been proven that it will be more efficient to place the thermal insulation material outside. This allows you to protect the material from which the bath is built. The roof of the bathhouse (attic) must be insulated without fail, if it is a separate building.

• Bath insulation from the inside... The mode of operation of the bath is such that only external insulation, for all its advantages, cannot be dispensed with. Moreover, in different rooms of the bath, it is necessary to maintain your own microclimate, humidity level and a given temperature. Therefore, they begin to insulate the bath from the inside. Moreover, suitable materials are chosen for each room, which in turn affect the choice of the technology for their installation.

As you can see, the process of warming is complex.

2.From the point of view of the applied thermal insulation material

There are different types of heaters on the domestic construction market. Do not forget that a bathhouse can provide a healing effect only if natural and safe thermal insulation materials are used inside the premises.

Insulation requirements:

• ecological cleanliness. Insulating materials can release toxic substances when exposed to high temperatures and moisture. Taking into account the temperature and humidity regime of the bath, this indicator should be treated carefully;
• hygroscopicity;
• thermal conductivity. The lower this indicator, the less the amount of heat passes through the material per unit of time;
• biological inertness;
• Fire safety;
• ability to keep in shape;
• availability, cost and ease of installation.

How to insulate a bath from the inside and outside

Consider which heater for a sauna, steam room is better and meets the requirements.

Organic thermal insulation materials

They have been known for a long time, even our ancestors tried to protect a heated bathhouse from heat loss using improvised means. Raw materials for the manufacture of organic insulation are natural materials. Among the common ones are:

• linseed tow, regular and tarred;
• sawdust;
• felt or jute;
• reeds.

The indisputable advantage of the listed materials is their naturalness. Among the disadvantages are fire hazard, ability to absorb moisture, complexity of use, attractiveness to rodents and microorganisms.

Semi-organic thermal insulation materials

For manufacturing, natural raw materials are used, however, in the production process, adhesives are used, which excludes the warming of the steam room with their use. These include:

• reed slabs (mats);
• chipboards;
• peat slabs.

Synthetic thermal insulation materials

Manufactured in a production environment and combined into two subspecies:

• polymer... These include polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene, penoizol, polyurethane foam. Thermal insulation of the bath with polystyrene or its derivatives cannot be carried out in the steam room and near the firebox, because the foam supports combustion, and when heated strongly, it will release harmful styrene. But for other rooms or outdoor insulation, this material is irreplaceable.

The exception is the foil insulation penoizol, which is used in the steam room, due to the presence of a layer of aluminum foil that prevents the loss of infrared thermal radiation. The use of penoizol is allowed by the standards;

3.From the point of view of the material from which the bath is built

When choosing insulation and a method of insulation, you need to take into account the material that was used for the construction of the bath and the climatic features in the region. These conditions will determine the thickness of the insulation.

Thermal insulation of a wooden bath from a bar and a log

A newly built bathhouse (made of logs or beams) does not need insulation. Wood retains heat well, plus, inter-crown insulation performs a heat-insulating function. Over time, the frame shrinks and after two or three years, gaps appear between the crowns, through which heat escapes.

When insulating a log house, waterproofing and the choice of a heat insulator play an important role. It is recommended to perform caulking with natural materials or to use basalt wool, because thanks to its structure, it contributes to the preservation of the microclimate and allows the tree to "breathe".

Mezhventsovy heater for timber - thermal insulation of a wooden bath

In addition to glued or profiled timber, rounded logs are used for the construction of a bath. Due to mechanical processing, such a log has less shrinkage, therefore, the requirements for insulation, in particular for the arrangement of the frame, are lower. In general, the insulation of the log house is carried out in the same way as the thermal insulation of a bath from a bar.

Thermal insulation of a frame bath

The frame or skeleton provides excellent opportunities for the placement of thermal insulation material. The frame structure is considered to be the most energy efficient.

To insulate a frame bath, it is better to use soft, high-density insulation, protected by membranes from moisture (they fit inside the walls). Organic insulation can also be used, in particular a mixture of sawdust, wood chips, gypsum and lime. Such a composition serves as a full-fledged insulation (fits between the layers of the sheathing).

Thermal insulation of the frame walls of the bath with sawdust, wood chips and clay

Insulation of a brick bath

Despite the high thermal conductivity of bricks, baths made of it are common. A serious disadvantage of a brick is its ability to freeze through quickly, and this leads to significant heating costs. Therefore, brick baths usually have an internal wooden frame, which performs a decorative function, and a thermal insulation material is perfectly placed behind it.

Thermal insulation of a bath from foam blocks and aerated blocks

Foam concrete or aerated concrete are materials used in modern construction of baths. The advantage of aerated concrete is a porous structure that retains heat well. But, this material has an unattractive appearance, plus, it is able to absorb moisture (especially aerated concrete, with its open pores). Since wet wall material does not keep heat, foam blocks need insulation, which is carried out outside.

The peculiarity of the insulation of foam block baths (as well as from aerated concrete and expanded clay concrete blocks) is that the material requires a good ventilation device. Therefore, in the insulated bath, they must make airflows.

4.From the position of the front of the work performed

As shown by a brief overview of the materials, each of them must be applied taking into account the location and material for the construction of the bath. Therefore, we will consider how to insulate the walls in a bath from the inside in the context of individual directions.

Thermal insulation of the walls of the bath from the inside

The direction of wall insulation depends on the function of the room.

The steam room is the most important part of the sauna. The temperature in the steam room can reach 90 ° C (Russian bath) and 130 ° C (sauna). Maintaining such a temperature is difficult and costly if you do not perform high-quality insulation of the steam room in the bath. Only natural materials can be used in the steam room. Basalt wool, laid in a frame or natural insulation, has proven itself excellently for those who are not ready to sacrifice the natural beauty of wood.

Insulation of walls in a foam concrete bath with cotton wool

• frame device. Guides made of timber or metal profiles are attached to the wall. Since the bathhouse is a low building, it is often enough to make only vertical guides and choose cotton wool with a density of more than 65 cr / cbm. The distance between the frame slats (pitch) is 15-20 less than the cotton wool width and is 580-590 mm.

Important! The specificity of laying cotton wool in a steam room is that you cannot use metal guides, but only wood, in addition, you have to take into account temperature fluctuations and the ability of wood to expand / contract under their influence.

In order to neutralize temperature fluctuations, during the construction of the frame, vertical cuts are made in the timber, through which the timber is fastened to the wall with hardware. The presence of grooves allows the guide to move along the wall, they also compensate for the possible shrinkage of the walls if the bath is built of timber.

How to insulate walls in a bath with basalt wool and penoizol

Thermal insulation of bath walls with sawdust (heat-insulating mixture)

• a wooden frame is being set up. If the lining is planned to be fastened vertically, then the frame guides should be located horizontally;
• a mixture is being prepared for wall insulation: - lime - 1 part (used as an antiseptic); Thermal insulation of a bath from a bar / log with jute

  Jute - jute rope, tape, felt, mezhventsovy insulation (organic material)

  Thermal insulation is performed using a special tool - a wooden hammer, a mallet (weight 300-400 g), chisels and a caulking shovel.

  Sealing gaps between logs, timber: jute is placed (hammered) into the slots between the joints, while trying to lay the material as tightly as possible.

  How to close up cracks in a wooden bath with jute

  Insulation of a washing room in a bath

  The washing department, dressing room or rest room have a lower temperature, therefore, foam can be used to insulate the walls in these rooms.

  • the frame is made. Some craftsmen recommend placing foam sheets on glue. But this method is only suitable for brick or foam concrete baths, but not for wooden ones;
  • foam is placed between the cells of the frame. There is no need to protect the foam from moisture, so films are not used;
  • finishing finishing is in progress.

  Bath roof insulation

  An important area of ​​thermal insulation work, because a lot of heat escapes through the roof. If the roof is well insulated, ceiling insulation can be excluded. However, it is possible to insulate the roof only if the bathhouse is a detached building with a pitched roof. For insulation, you can use any heat-insulating material that fits on the floor of the attic.

  The procedure for using synthetic insulation, cotton wool or foam is no different from laying it on the wall.

  Thermal insulation of the bath roof with sawdust

  • arrangement of the frame;
  • sawdust preparation... If the sawdust will be poured in the form of a dry mixture, then they must be dried, degummed, impregnated with an antiseptic. Dry sawdust can be filled in as a mixture between the cells of the frame and covered with a membrane or covered with ash. But more often they are placed in plastic bags and stacked in bags;

  Insulation of the roof in the bath with sawdust, filled in bags

  • mix preparation... Insulation with sawdust is an effective option for thermal insulation if a concrete slab acts as an overlap. The composition of the mixture for insulation (proportions of components):

  First, dry materials are mixed, and then water is added to the desired consistency.

  There is also a second recipe:

  Thermal insulation of a bath with a mixture of sawdust, clay and straw

  In this case, the clay is soaked in water, diluted to the consistency of sour cream and mixed with sawdust.

  An effective insulation will be a 100 mm layer of sawdust mixture.

  Thermal insulation of the bath roof with sawdust Backfilling of ash around the exit of the sauna stove pipe from the attic floor

  Thermal insulation of the ceiling in the bath

  Note that it is logical to start warming a bath from the ceiling. After all, warm air collects under the ceiling, which means it is a source of heat loss. The insulation technology depends on the material used.

  How to insulate the ceiling in a bath

  For thermal insulation of the ceiling in the steam room, basalt wool is used, which is laid according to the same technology as on the wall - with the arrangement of the frame.

  Thermal insulation of the ceiling of the bathhouse with sawdust is carried out according to the principle of thermal insulation of a cold roof (attic floor). The sawdust is placed in a plastic bag and placed in a frame made on the ceiling or between the floor beams.

  Recommendation. When insulating the ceiling, it must be remembered that there is a very high temperature at the exit point of the heating pipe. In this place, only basalt wool can be used, as a material that has a very high melting point and does not support combustion. The passage of the pipe through the ceiling is closed with a stainless steel plate (reflective, protective screen for the furnace pipe).

  Protective screen for the furnace tube in the bath and the consequences of its absence

  Instead of sawdust on the ceiling, expanded clay, poured into the frame, can be used. But it has significant weight and hygroscopicity. Therefore, according to reviews, users have abandoned this material in favor of others.

  Thermal insulation of the floor in the bath

  The floor in the bath can be concrete or wood. Different insulation technologies are used depending on the type. Insulation of a concrete floor can be done with expanded clay or foam.

  Thermal insulation of the floor in the bath with expanded clay

  • the base is being prepared. For this, the rough floor is removed and the soil is removed. The depth of the recess is 400-500 mm. below the threshold;
  • waterproofing is laid on the floor - a film or roofing material. It is important that the edges of the film extend onto the wall to the full height of the floor after insulation;
  • a rough screed with a thickness of 100 mm is performed. or a crushed stone-sand pillow 150 mm is laid;
  • expanded clay gravel is filled up. The minimum thickness of the expanded clay layer is 300 mm, otherwise it will not function as a heat insulator;
  • a reinforced mesh is laid on top of expanded clay and a layer of cement screed 50-70 mm is poured. When pouring concrete, it is important to ensure the correct angle of inclination of the floor to the drain;
  • the final floor is formed.

  It should be noted that expanded clay can be laid without using a screed. For this, a frame is made of a wooden bar. Expanded clay is poured into the cells of the frame, a waterproofing film is laid on it and a clean floor covering is made of wooden floorboards. However, this method is not suitable for steam rooms and washing rooms, where the level of humidity is high.

  Technology of floor insulation in a bath with expanded clay with and without a screed

  Considering how to insulate the floor in a bath, it is better to give preference to a concrete base followed by laying tiles on it (if it is a washing room or dressing room), or wooden flooring, which is better to use in a steam room:

  • tile glue and a notched trowel are used for laying tiles;
  • for laying wooden flooring, the floor is ironed, and then wooden logs are installed, with a slope of 5 ° towards the drain. Floor boards are installed on the logs, observing a gap between the boards of 5-10 mm. The gap is needed for water drainage and ventilation.

  A concrete floor in a bathhouse is a practical solution, since it is resistant to moisture, and the service life is 3-4 times longer than that of a wooden floor on logs.

  Insulation of the floor in the bath with penoplex

  A more modern and technologically advanced method of insulation. However, many users believe that it is wrong to insulate a steam room using synthetic material (in fact, penoplex is extruded polystyrene foam), because when exposed to high temperatures, it can release harmful substances. Therefore, Penoplex is used in other rooms, with a lower temperature.

  How to insulate the floor in a bath with penoplex

  • prepare the base: remove the old screed, remove the wooden flooring or remove the soil if the bath is new;
  • pour a rough screed with a layer of 50-100 mm to level the floor surface, for laying foam boards;
  • lay sheets of foam or materials from this group of insulation;
  • lay the reinforcement mesh;
  • pour a layer of screed, 50-100 mm thick;
  • carry out the flooring of the finished floor.

  Technology of floor insulation in a bath with penoplex Laying floorboards on a foam-insulated floor in a bath

  Thermal insulation of the bath floor with a warm floor system

  Another option that is gradually gaining popularity is a warm floor in the bath. Its essence is that pipes are mounted in the screed, creating a warm circuit along which heated water moves (water floor). Thus, we are not talking about insulation, but about how to make floor heating in a bath. And these are different concepts.

  Floor heating in the bath - water heated floor

  Thermal insulation of openings in the bath

  Thermal insulation of doors and windows in the bath also helps to increase the energy efficiency of the room. To reduce heat loss, window and door openings are initially made the minimum permissible (in particular, the door to the steam room), and the windows are also placed closer to the floor surface. But you still need to insulate them, for this you need to install sealed double-glazed windows and seals along the contour of windows and doors.

  Conclusion

  When insulating a bath with your own hands, you should not forget about arranging high-quality ventilation. This will have a positive effect not only on the health of the sauna users, but also on the properties of finishing materials.

  Do-it-yourself bath insulation from the inside - thermal insulation for baths and saunas photo-video

  
  How to insulate a bath from the inside and outside - do-it-yourself thermal insulation of walls, floor, roof, ceiling in a sauna and a steam room. What insulation is better for a bath, how to insulate a wooden, brick and foam block bath

The secret of creating a comfortable place for bathing procedures is difficult to reveal, describing in one phrase. It consists of many components, one of which is to maximize the thermal efficiency of the enclosing structures, that is, to insulate the bath from the inside or outside. This is a critical construction stage, requiring the performer to be technologically literate and accurate, which should be taken into account when planning to do everything with his own hands. At the same time, the results of high-quality performance of thermal insulation measures not only positively affect the comfortable use of the structure. There are also a number of aspects related to them that you should know before you start planning your practical actions.

What does insulation give?

Many developers or those planning capital repairs of their real estate, setting themselves the task of getting good insulation, do not have the full picture of the upcoming actions and their consequences. Let us analyze with examples what we actually get if the thermal insulation of the bath is equipped in compliance with the technological map of this construction stage:

1. First of all, of course, comfort. In the interior of such a structure, it is easy to maintain the required temperature and humidity regime, that is, to ensure the stability of a specific bath microclimate. In practice, this means that there are no drafts in the rest room or washing room caused by overcooling of air masses in rapidly cooling enclosing structures. In the steam room, the human body will be warmed up evenly from all sides, bathed in warm air, caressed by infrared rays emanating from the surrounding surfaces.
2. Economic profitability of operation by increasing the efficiency of using the energy generated by the heat generator (furnace or boiler). It is expressed in direct material savings associated with a decrease in purchasing costs for fuel. If you make a rough comparison, then, if you insulate the bath well, it will take twice as few energy resources to heat it. In addition, the preparation of the steam room for the procedures will be possible as soon as possible.
3. Preservation of building structures and a healthy indoor climate. This is important for buildings made from any type of material. However, bath insulation, together with reliable vapor barrier, is of particular relevance for structures made of wood materials. Indeed, in addition to the fact that the air cooled near the outer surfaces forms unpleasant air currents, a large amount of moisture condenses from it. The liquid that regularly collects on supporting structures, inside thermal insulation or under decorative cladding becomes a favorable environment for the development of microorganisms. The result is decay of building materials, pollution of the bath atmosphere with products of their decay and mold spores.

When is internal insulation preferable?

There are many opinions about how to insulate a bath - from the inside or outside. It should be understood that the problem being solved differs from the arrangement of thermal insulation for other buildings, since it is recommended for them, in all possible cases, to give preference to external thermal screens. However, the specific microclimate of the bath rooms exposes building and finishing materials to almost extreme influences: humidity up to 100% () and temperatures up to 110-120 0 С (in saunas), and on individual surfaces up to 160 0 С. preservation of the desired thermophysical parameters, but also to eliminate the impact of aggressive factors on the building envelope.

To create a heat and vapor barrier from the inside, you can also complement the external heat protection. In this case, the inner barrier layers will serve more to protect the structural elements of the building from direct exposure to moisture and high temperatures.

Methods and materials

The modern developer, on the one hand, has a noticeable advantage over his ancestors, since he has a huge choice of how and with what to insulate the bath, and on the other hand, the wealth of alternatives requires a clear understanding of the technological features of the use of certain materials.

How were the baths insulated before?

In the old days, a person learned to get by with what the environment gave him. Technologies for the use of natural materials for building thermal protection have been worked out for centuries and continue still used, as they are distinguished by their availability, environmental friendliness and low cost. Of course, given the fact that the walls were built from thick logs - a material with good thermal efficiency, the thermal insulation of the bath was largely reduced to ensuring the tightness of the butt joints. It was achieved by laying a mezhventsovy insulation made of moss or flax strands, even at the stage of construction, and also by subsequent internal and external caulking of the seams.

Log ceilings were covered with clay, and later, filling between the supporting beams made of sawdust or straw began to be used. At the same time, the inner layer of heat-steam protection has always been made of mud based on clay or its mixtures, for example, with chopped straw. Already in the twentieth century, granular expanded clay became widespread, which compares favorably with organic natural materials in that it is absolutely not flammable, does not rot, and is also not afraid of rodents. Thermal insulation of a bath with porous ceramic granules has only one drawback - the layer of them must be 2 times thicker than that of sawdust or straw.

As for the floors, they were made of a flowing type, where through the gaps between the floorboards, water flowed into the soil absorption pit. It was quite difficult to equip the thermal protection of such a design in practice. To some extent, a similar problem was solved by organizing a ventilated space between the deck and the ground.

How are baths insulated now?

Adherents of authenticity can even today choose to insulate a bath from the inside using only natural materials. However, despite the ecological advantages of natural raw materials, by itself it can no longer provide a number of parameters with which the concept of "modern building" is associated. For example, it does not have sufficient durability, stability of properties, does not guarantee the creation of the required level of comfort and thermal insulation. Therefore, in their pure form, natural materials for thermal protection are rare, and mainly products based on their processing or completely synthetic products are used. Nevertheless, modern insulation for a sauna from the inside:

• must meet environmental factors, especially taking into account the extreme conditions specified for its operation;
• meet the efficiency requirements, that is, have the lowest possible thermal conductivity coefficient. Today, such values ​​are considered close to 0.03-0.04 W / m * K.

Mineral fiber wool

The most popular raw material for creating thermal barriers in rooms with any operating microclimate, and for bath buildings, is the best fit. The starting material is of mineral origin, does not have harmful emissions at any temperatures, is not afraid of fire, does not rot and does not undergo gradual chemical decomposition, like most polymers.

Important! When planning to insulate a bath from the inside with your own hands, you need to take into account that cotton wool is different. Its illiterate use can give the opposite thermal effect, accelerated destruction of enclosing structures and deterioration of the quality of the indoor microclimate.

Firstly, cotton wool based on staple fiberglass, like its previous counterpart - slag wool, is a rather soft material that requires increased attention to its fixing. For example, on walls with a high layer height, it will slide, gradually exposing sections of structures. Therefore, it is recommended to lay glass wool on the walls in low spans of the horizontal lathing, to use it on ceilings, and to exclude it altogether for floors under a screed.

Secondly, the insulation of the bath from the inside based on wool made of stone (basalt) fibers has one significant operational disadvantage. Although the raw material of fibers itself is absolutely harmless to humans, the problem of using products from it is the binding resins with which the finished product is impregnated. The binding components, of course, make it possible to create mats that are resistant to mechanical stress of various intensities and are convenient for laying in guide frames or even under floor coverings. However, the same binder, during high-temperature operation in a steam room, begins to emit a poisonous phenol-formaldehyde mixture. Therefore, it is better to organize the insulation of the steam room from the inside on the basis of glass wool, but basalt wool is perfect for other premises.

Styrofoam

Affordable material, also attracts many the simplicity of its installation. However, its use in the internal space of the bath is a big question. You can immediately exclude it installation in a steam room or furnace, since none of the polymers is designed for use at temperatures above 60 0 C for environmental reasons. In addition, it is undesirable to insulate the bath from the inside on its basis for wooden buildings, since foam sheets have extremely low vapor permeability, "do not breathe", and foci of decay can form at the point of contact with wood.

The use of high-density foam sheets from conventional or extruded raw materials is quite justified for thermal insulation of floors under the screed.

Ecowool

Quite promising heat-shielding material, which is gradually gaining more and more popularity. It is absolutely safe for humans under any conditions of its use. Therefore, if you are thinking of insulating the walls in the bath from the inside with your own hands, then this will be an excellent choice. Ecowool will also fit well on ceilings, but for floors it, without creating load-bearing frames, is of little use, since it easily crumples, losing its thermal insulation properties.

The material is made from secondary raw materials: waste paper, waste or rejection in the manufacture of corrugated packaging, cardboard or other pulp and paper products, while maintaining all the environmental advantages of shredded paper. Thanks to the treatment with an antiseptic (boric acid), ecowool is not afraid of moisture, however, like mineral wool, it needs to create conditions for free ventilation. In order to improve the fire-fighting properties, the finished product flakes are impregnated with a fire retardant (sodium tetraborate). As a result, they do not support combustion, smolder and self-extinguish.

It should be borne in mind that warming the bath from the inside with your own hands will be possible only by a dry method - filling the material into prepared niches or pockets. This causes some difficulties for the widespread use of the technology. There is a more practical wet method that allows you to distribute ecowool on any surface, but it requires the involvement of specialized specialists using inflatable pneumatic equipment.

Expanded clay

Although it does not belong to the types of heat insulators with the highest thermal resistance - its thermal conductivity coefficient at a density of 200 kg / m3 is 0.1 W / m * K, and at a density of 800 kg / m3 - 0.18 W / m * K - continues successfully compete with more efficient modern materials.

In today's construction, thermal insulation of a bath from the inside using expanded clay is perhaps the best thing for arranging floors. Of course, it will have to be poured with a layer 3-4 times thicker than for foam or mineral wool. But this is not so important, since we are talking about floors, where it is possible to create the necessary margin for the height of the backfill, and the load on the supporting structures is not considered at all.

The advantages of expanded clay have already been mentioned above, it remains only to add that it is completely safe for humans. It can be recommended for thermal protection of floors in all sauna rooms, including steam rooms and washing rooms.

Nuances of practical implementation

Having weighed all the pros and cons regarding the selected materials, before starting work, it is necessary to disassemble the technological points of how to properly insulate the bath from the inside. Otherwise, even a vaunted product will be useless in the hands of an incompetent installer. From the most popular types of thermal insulation described above, it can already be concluded that each of them is preferable to be used on certain building elements of the structure. Consider, for example, the option of installing mineral wool on the ceiling and walls, and expanded clay backfill for thermal protection of floors.

Floor

If earlier, they were made of a leaky type, which made it difficult to insulate them, now such structures are found in the most simplified or temporary buildings. The human desire for comfort has led to the appearance of non-leaking floors, because without them it is impossible to equip a full-fledged bath insulation from the inside.

The principles of creating the lower heat-shielding layer are not too different for structures sitting on the ground, from those raised on poles. In all cases, before placing the insulation, in our example of expanded clay, it is required to prepare a waterproofed base. On the ground, it can be a 10 cm layer of compacted rubble, covered with a 4-5 cm concrete preparation (coarse screed) and a layer of waterproofing. It is recommended to mix special hydrophobic additives to solutions of all types of screeds in all bath rooms. Waterproofing for concrete preparation can be of any type: bituminous, polymer or cement. Then, already on the waterproofing layer, expanded clay granules are poured.

If the bath is insulated for the floor raised on the pillars, then you will have to either fill between the pillars (it is possible when the supports are low) with the preparation of the base on the ground, or cast the supporting plate over the columnar supports. Thick boards can sometimes play the role of the base plate.

In washing rooms, on expanded clay backfill (its layer is at least 30 cm), it is necessary to form a plane with a slope, in the lower part of which a receiving unit of the sewer system - a ladder - will be installed. The inclined plane must also have water-repellent properties, therefore, a reinforced screed is equipped on it with the introduction of hydrophobic additives. It is advisable to coat the frozen surface with a penetrating cement-waterproofing compound, and then cover it with ceramic tiles with low water absorption. On top of the finished floor in the steam room and the washing room, the laid removable wood flooring will not interfere.

Walls and ceiling

The insulation of the walls of the bath from the inside should begin with the elimination of all possible places of direct blowing of cold outside air, otherwise condensation cannot be avoided inside the heat-shielding material. To do this, in log cabins or buildings made of non-profiled timber, all joints are carefully caulked or treated with sealants, and the inner surfaces of the walls of the block masonry (brick, aerated concrete) are covered with a layer of vapor-permeable plaster.

Further, horizontal (for soft glass wool) or vertical (for stone wool) type are stuffed onto the bearing surfaces. The lathing can also be made two-level with mutually perpendicular guides. The thickness of the lathing from a bar or board is selected by the corresponding layer of the material laid in it.

In turn, when choosing a heater for a bath in terms of thickness, one should start from the thermophysical properties of the enclosing structures. For example, if the thermal protection plays an auxiliary role inside the steam room, with the existing external insulation, or for thick-walled boxes made of solid wood, then it is enough to lay 5 cm of mineral wool. If the main heat shield for a brick wall is being set up, then the layer of fibrous material cannot be less than 10 cm.

Using glass wool or basalt insulation for a bath, you should take care of its thorough vapor barrier, which also prevents harmful mineral dust from entering the atmosphere of the premises. Installation of foil materials or just aluminum foil is encouraged as vapor barrier membranes. Foil insulation is placed on the lathing with a metallized coating in the inner space of the room, which contributes to preservation of heat. Adjacent sheets of material should have sufficient overlaps (10-15 cm), which are sealed with foil tape. After that, for example, for.

It remains to add that the insulation of the ceiling of the bath from the inside can be carried out using the same technology as for the walls. The difference will only be in the thickness of the insulation - it will have to be taken 5 cm more. Another way of placing mineral wool is between the ceiling beams. In this case, the lathing for finishing is always packed across the load-bearing beams, supporting the vapor barrier film and a layer of heat-shielding materials.

Insulation from the inside is an inevitable event for most types of baths. It allows you to spend less fuel, heat the steam room faster and better. Competently made insulation protects the walls of the bath from fungus, rotting, prolongs its service life. In this article, we will select inexpensive and safe types of thermal insulation, depending on the material of the walls of the bath, and consider how to install them correctly.

• Thermal insulation of the walls of the bath from the inside: we select the insulation;
• Do-it-yourself bath insulation from the inside: from the ceiling to the floor;
• Do-it-yourself insulation of a brick bath from the inside;
• Thermal insulation of the bath from the blocks from the inside
• Thermal insulation of a wooden bath from the inside

Bath insulation from the inside: materials

Different requirements are imposed on different rooms of the bath, we will focus on the steam room and the washing room, the features of which are high temperature and high humidity. Also, the insulation is selected depending on the material of the walls of the bath.

But, regardless of the material of the walls and the purpose of the room, the insulation should be:

• Non-toxic, so as not to cause poisoning under the influence of high temperature;
• Not hygroscopic so as not to absorb moisture;
• Resistant to high temperatures and steam;
• Non-flammable;
• Retaining its shape even after several years of extreme exploitation;
• Resistant to mold and mildew;
• Selling at a reasonable price.

Sauna heaters

Insulation	In what room is used	Note
Natural materials: rolled jute, felt, insulation made of reeds and sawdust, moss, tow, etc.	Dressing room, rest room.	Natural materials ignite at high temperatures and are therefore not suitable for steam rooms and washrooms. But materials from jute and flax are the best insulating materials for a chopped bath. There are excellent modern roll insulation made from natural materials, but they are very expensive, therefore they are practically not used for bath insulation.
Mineral insulation.	They can be used to insulate any room in the bath. Most often, they use easy-to-install plate heaters (mats).	They do not rot, serve up to 30 years, are fire-resistant, inexpensive. It is with these materials that most Russian baths are insulated.
Polymer materials	It is not recommended by FORUMHOUSE masters for thermal insulation of the steam room.	Polyfoam is a wonderful heat insulator, but it is flammable, and at high temperatures it releases substances harmful to humans. You cannot use styrofoam in the steam room.... Extruded polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam is considered a safe material (it is used to insulate the bathhouse of Russian polar explorers in Antarctica). But the FORUMHOUSE masters do not recommend using this material in the steam room either.
Heaters based on aluminum foil.	It is used in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations for a specific room.	The principle of operation of such heaters is the effect of a thermos, the reflection of heat from the walls and ceiling due to the foil. Some types of foil-clad heaters are made specifically for steam rooms and other rooms with high temperatures, while others, when the temperature rises, begin to emit harmful substances. Foil in the bath is used as a vapor barrier.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling of the bath from the inside

The bath is insulated from the inside in the following order: ceiling - walls - floor. Most of the heat in the bath goes through the ceiling, therefore

The thickness of the insulation of the ceiling is twice the thickness of the insulation of the walls and is at least 10 cm.

Nomad

We suspend insulation at least 10 cm under the black ceiling. Better basalt wool, glass wool and polystyrene in the steam room. The insulation can be hung on the lacing. Then the foil, the gap along the slats and the lining.

Regardless of the material of the walls of the bath, the ceiling is insulated in the same way.

Foil is used in the insulation of the ceiling.

Insulation of the frame bath from the inside

For insulating a frame bath, roll mineral insulation is most often used.

The thickness of the insulation depends on the type of operation of the bath: if it is supposed to heat it only in the summer, a layer of 5 cm is enough; if you plan to heat the bath all year round, the insulation layer should be 10-15 cm (depending on the climatic zone).

To insulate the walls of a frame bath from the inside:

• Insulation is placed in the interbeam space of the structure;
• The next layer is vapor barrier (foil);
• Ventzazor;
• Sheathing.

The photos below show how Nomadniki insulated his frame bathhouse. Insulation - basalt wool.

Do-it-yourself bath insulation from the inside: step-by-step instructions.

The foil acts as a vapor barrier, so it is important that even the slightest holes and damage are absent in it, and that all joints are well glued with high-quality tape. The tape is always sold with foil, and its quality must be checked in the store (glue the tape to the foil and try to tear it off).

Do-it-yourself bath insulation from the inside: log house

It would be a tragic mistake to insulate a chopped and well-heated bath from the inside. This is not just meaningless and destructive for the walls, it contradicts the very idea of ​​a chopped bath.

Log cabins are made for two reasons:

1. To get a classic Russian steam bath, which is heated for a long time and keeps the required level of heat and humidity for a long time. It is the tree that accumulates heat and moisture and gradually "gives up" it. In this case, the bath cannot be sheathed from the inside; you will also have to come to terms with the high consumption of firewood.
2. For the image. Not a single bathhouse looks as cool on the outside as a chopped one. But I often don't want to waste time and firewood, I want the bathhouse to be heated in an hour, so insulation, vapor barrier and clapboard cladding are done. The blockhouse works only as an external frame, the meaning of the material is lost. In this case, it is cheaper and more correct to build a frame bath.

It so happens that a person gets a ready-made sauna from a log house, and for various reasons it can be cold. Such a bath can be insulated, but only outside.

The cake looks like this:

• insulation;
• wind protection;
• vertical lathing to create a ventilation gap;
• external cladding.

And from the inside, you can put foil and sheathe it with clapboard, not forgetting about the ventilation gap.

• We put foil on the timber, fasten it with a construction stapler;
• We glue ALL joints with foil tape;
• We fill vertical slats with a thickness of 1-2 cm;
• We fill the lining horizontally, leaving slots at the top and bottom for air circulation.

In a chopped bath, only the floor and ceiling are insulated!

If the ceiling of a chopped bath is made of thick boards, it is not necessary to use insulation, but then the following is poured onto the ceiling in a cold attic:

• ash;
• sand;
• expanded clay (it is preferable that the granules are of different sizes);
• clay coating.

Insulation from the inside of a brick bath

Brick is not the most suitable material for building a bath, but if there is a brick factory somewhere nearby, then brick baths begin to grow like mushrooms. Due to the high thermal conductivity of bricks, such a bath needs to be insulated without fail. Warming is carried out only from the inside, and to make the bath look cool from the outside, decorative jointing is done.

Usually the cake of the insulated wall of a brick bath looks like this:

• brickwork;
• waterproofing,
• insulation;
• vapor barrier;
• sheathing.

Waterproofing between the brickwork and the insulation is optional: if the walls are built correctly and waterproofed from the foundation, they will not dampen. If there is no confidence in the walls, then waterproofing is better done.

Insulation on the brick walls of the bath is attached to the frame.

S4sha FORUMHOUSE Member

We build a frame on the wall from a bar 100x40 with a step in the width of the insulation, lay it with insulation, lay the vapor barrier, sew on 20mm slats and sheathe it with clapboard.

The bathhouse of our user S4sha is laid out in half a brick, but it steams beautifully even at -30. Its walls are insulated like this:

• mineral wool;
• vapor barrier (in the steam room - foil);
• ventilation gap;
• lining.

Insulation thickness - 50 mm.

Thermal insulation of the bath from the blocks from the inside

For the construction of a bath, durable and moisture-resistant blocks of expanded clay concrete are preferred. Insulation of such a bath is thought over at the stage of its construction. The most important thing here is to remove the ice block of concrete from the heating circuit. There is a technology promoted by our user ZYBY, which allows you to solve this problem by constructing a frame-wall made of boards indented from the walls of the bath. It is suitable for insulating all stone-walled baths.

To ventilate and dry the space between the frame and the walls, several air vents are made in the walls of the bath, above and below the outside. The vents are closed while people are steaming in the bath, the rest of the time they are open to dry.

Insulation cake for the steam room and washing room using this technology:

• concrete wall with air vents;
• insulation for the frame-wall (with a cover from the concrete wall);
• frame-wall;
• foil;
• finishing with a 50th unedged board (aspen, linden or cedar) to get solid wood in the steam room.

With this approach, you will not have to heat the ice walls. And the insulation will dry out between vapors.

But many owners of a bathhouse made of blocks traditionally insulate it from the inside:

• concrete wall;
• insulation (attached to the frame);
• foil;
• ventilation gap;
• lining.

Thermal insulation of a bath from expanded clay concrete blocks from the inside.

Such a bath needs insulation outside as well.

Thermal insulation of the floor in the bath

The precious bath heat is also escaping through the floor, so it also needs to be insulated. To insulate the floor in the bath, it is recommended to use expanded clay, as the lightest and most environmentally friendly material.

Expanded clay is poured between the layers of the concrete floor as follows:

• the first layer of concrete is poured;
• wait for it to completely freeze;
• expanded clay is poured (layer thickness - 10 cm);
• install a reinforced lattice.
• a layer of concrete is poured;
• make a cement-sand screed.

Summarizing

A good bath is a warm bath. And in order for it to warm up well to the desired temperature, it is necessary to choose the right thermal insulation and insulate all structural elements.

Also, in the bath, they insulate from the inside:

• Windows, doors and all openings - natural sealants;
• The outer door is made with good natural materials.

At FORUMHOUSE questions are discussed in detail, discussed separately. Find out how to do it right outside. Read our article on. Meet our users and find the answer to any question. Watch our video on how to build a complete bath complex.

The most important issue in the design of a bath is insulation and the ways in which you can do it as efficiently as possible.

Peculiarities

Most of the time, the bath was used only as a special room for hygiene procedures. Retaining heat in timber buildings during the winter season was quite difficult. In Russia, with its harsh climatic conditions, the bathhouse served purely for washing. However, the ancient Greeks spent their time in their baths, discussing issues of politics and art, war and peace. Turning to modern times, we can conclude that our attitude to baths has taken on the features of ancient times. It is banal to maintain hygiene by a shower, and a bathhouse is predetermined by a recreational role. With modern technologies and materials, it is easy to set a comfortable temperature in it any day, despite the cold weather.

The most important function of the bath is the steam room. The temperature in it is traditionally determined at 90 ° C and 130 ° C.

Materials (edit)

Taking into account several important characteristics will help a successful choice of insulation. A high-quality material must have a vapor barrier, otherwise the penetration of moisture will worsen its condition and stop retaining heat.

The raw materials that make up its basis must meet environmental standards otherwise, the high temperature will provoke the release of toxins that pollute the environment and harm human health. The heat in the room will be retained for a longer time with a low degree of thermal conductivity of the insulation. The material must meet fire safety standards - its flammability must be minimized by correctly correlating the type of insulation coating and the temperature in the bath room.

The low hygroscopicity of the insulating agent will protect the surface of the bath from moisture penetration from the inside of the room. The warranty period is higher for insulation with high water-repellency. The insulating material must be able to maintain its shape for a long time and not shrink, as a result of which the heat in the bath will remain for a long period.

The range of insulation materials is presented in three groups. Organic heat insulators have long been used to retain heat in a bath. They are made from natural, environmentally friendly raw materials. A common option among them is tow with or without resin impregnation, sawdust, layers of moss, reeds, dense felt or jute fibers. Natural ingredients are absolutely safe for human health, but they have many negative qualities. The vegetable base of the insulation contributes to its easy flammability, therefore, the level of fire safety of the building is reduced.

The dry structure of a substance is susceptible to moisture, which it absorbs from the air. The presence of water in the insulating layer contributes to its cooling under the influence of the outside temperature, as a result of which the bath cools down faster. The creation of a heat-insulating layer from organic raw materials is a time-consuming process, the implementation of which requires experience in this field from the master.

Organic materials are attractive to small rodents who perceive it as food. The plant mass is a favorable environment for the development of microorganisms, the growth of mold and fungus.

The second option is semi-organic thermal insulation materials, the manufacture of which is carried out by analogy with the previous type, but with the addition of glue. The interaction of natural plant components with an adhesive base gives the insulating layer strength and hardness.

The insulating structure has a tiled look. Reed, peat and chipboard panels keep the high temperature inside the bathhouse for a long time. Exposure to steam adversely affects the bonding agent, thinning it, therefore, the use of semi-organic substances is unacceptable in rooms with a high degree of air humidity. It is not recommended to install tiled insulation in a steam room, where the moisture content in the air is maximum. This material is more suitable for warming dressing room rooms.

The third type of insulation is synthetics. The variety of synthetic materials falls into two categories. Polymer insulation includes polystyrene, expanded polystyrene and polyurethane foam. Their use is limited - the coating must not be allowed to be in a high temperature area. Strong heating of the polymer causes an internal chemical reaction, resulting in the formation of styrene, the vapors of which are harmful to human health. Also, high temperatures can cause a fire of synthetic insulation, so its use will be appropriate in a cool rest room.

Penoizol insulation, the only synthetic-based insulation material, is approved for use in steam rooms. A layer of thin aluminum foil is placed on top of the polymer, preventing heating to a dangerous level. Mineral insulation is allowed for use in any part of the bath. They are represented by two subspecies - basalt wool and glass wool. They are highly resistant to fire and high temperatures.

You can choose a structure from a cinder block, expanded clay concrete blocks, aerated block, gas silicate bricks. You can insulate the old building with penoplex or foam glass. For a cinder block or block system, chopped sawdust is most often chosen.

Insulation scheme

The highest temperature in the bath is maintained in the steam room or in the sauna, while the dressing room is located on the border with the street, so it is constantly subject to slight cooling. Rest rooms are less dependent on the type of heat-insulating material, their air is specially warmed up weakly.

The process of laying the insulation is formed depending on the material of the structure of the bath. Recently built, due to the low thermal conductivity of wood, it does not need careful insulation. After 2-3 years, the wooden blockhouse shrinks and crevices appear between the logs or beams. To insulate it, it is recommended to make caulking between the crowns using natural material in order to preserve the microclimate inside the building.

A wooden structure made of logs or beams takes time to dry. After drying, gaps are formed between the parts, through which cold air flows into the interior. Jute fiber is used to fill narrow cavities between wooden elements, as it compresses well. Laying insulation directly during construction will facilitate the work. The final study of small areas is carried out after the completion of construction with the help of a mallet and caulk. The laying of insulation material in a brick bath is always carried out during the construction process, since the brick quickly gives off heat.

The traditional thermal insulation scheme is a ventilated hinged facade. A layer of insulation is placed on the outside of the walls, after which it is sheathed with siding or clapboard. A space filled with air is formed between the layer of insulating material and the outer coating. The presence of an air gap serves to retain heat, prevents the formation of condensate vapors, the reproduction of putrefactive bacteria and the development of dampness. An alternative way to insulate the steam room is to install a wooden structure around it. The thermal insulation properties of wood replace the thermal insulation material. To do this, you will need a beam, lathing, stone wool, foil insulation and lining.

The surface of the timber is upholstered with lathing, then stone wool. Foil-clad insulation is applied to the layer of mineral material, after which there is a finishing clapboard lining. A panel-type bathhouse implies lightweight heaters - reed slabs, mineral wool and expanded polystyrene. Before laying a heat-insulating coating, panel walls must be treated with milk of lime to eliminate the impact of negative factors. After drying, the lime structure will provide the building with fire resistance and resistance to decay processes. When the bath is located in a cold climate area, it is recommended to insulate its walls with fiberboard or reed slabs. In mild climatic zones, it is preferable to use gypsum or sawdust material.

Calculations

Before the start of the insulation, the working area is limited. Areas not intended for this are covered with roll paper to avoid contamination. For insulation of the ceiling and walls, you will need a 5 x 5 mm bar-rail. To fix the future layer of insulation, a crate is needed. For a brick bath, it is preferable to choose a drywall profile. The fixing of the suspensions occurs on average after 0.7 m, the distance between the profiles should be slightly less than the height of the insulation.

It is recommended to use bars in a wooden bath. Thermal insulation with bulk materials is accompanied by the observance of a distance between the bars of 45-60 cm. The fastening of the lathing parts is carried out using dowels, self-tapping screws in the case of a wooden surface, or anchors for a stone base. Depending on the building material, the length of the fastening fittings is selected. For wood - 2-2.5 cm, for denser structures - starting from 4 cm. The length is associated with the peculiarities of the use of fasteners.

During the installation of the battens, fasteners are selected with a length that ensures a strong fixation of the timber or drywall. The size of the cross-section of the bar is determined taking into account the thickness of the insulating layer to be laid. When insulating with organic or semi-organic material, to ensure a long service life, it is imperative to use a hydro-vapor barrier film. Foil, electrical tape, self-tapping screws - auxiliary means during work. Foil tape is required to insulate the surface. 1-2 spools are enough for the entire volume of the treated area. It glues the joints of the tile insulation to create a one-piece sealed plane. Of the tools in the process of warming, you will need a knife, a level, a screwdriver and a plumb line.

Depending on the surface and its location, the amount of required insulation is calculated. When calculating the mass, it is necessary to take into account the rough costs and possible errors, which also consume material. For example, a sawdust-based mixture will require: 10 parts of sawdust, 0.5 parts of cement, 1 part of lime and 2 parts of water. Another recipe for making almost the same mass includes 8 parts of sawdust, 1 part of gypsum and the same amount of water. The composition of such a mixture includes 5 parts of sawdust and clay.

Mounting

Step-by-step instructions for warming a bathhouse consist of several stages. To begin with, it is worth creating thermal insulation for the openings. Leaky doors and windows allow a significant amount of heat to pass through and are the entry point for cold outside air. Therefore, it is recommended to make the door to the steam room small, with the necessary minimum suitable parameters. To establish an obstacle to the path of air with a low temperature, the threshold should traditionally be located 25 cm above the floor level.

A door made of wood will have the lowest thermal conductivity. The constituent boards without chips and knots should be as even and tight as possible to each other. If desired, the doors can be insulated, like the walls, during the assembly process. After natural shrinkage of the wooden product, the resulting cracks must be repaired with jute or tow, and the door will again store heat with high quality. The lighting in the bath is mostly carried out artificially, so the windows are made of small dimensions. The exception is the rest room, where the window can be of any area, however, in order to avoid hypothermia, it is advised to make it also small.

The glass used in the frames must be double. The air gap between the double glazing creates an accumulation of air that traps the heat inside the sauna room. The glass is installed using a sealant to seal openings between the frame, which can allow cold air to pass through. The remaining gaps between the window opening and the frame must be filled with mineral insulation, for example, mineral wool, on top of which a layer of waterproofing film is applied.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling surface includes work on the thermal insulation of the roof, since its large surface in the absence of an insulating layer will allow large volumes of cold air to pass through. The heat of the air rises up during cooling, and the fragile roof will contribute to the rapid cooling of the bath. With a high-quality insulation roof covering, the processing of the ceiling can be neglected. Insulation is possible on condition that the bathhouse is located separately from other buildings and has a pitched roof.

Insulation is carried out using any thermal insulation coating laid on the attic floor. The process of installing synthetic insulation on the roof is similar to the technology of wall surface insulation. When using organic insulation, the frame is initially prepared. When a dry sawdust mixture is poured, it must be dried, cleaned of tar and impregnated with an antiseptic. For insulation, a layer of sawdust is covered on top with a layer of membrane or sprinkled with ash.

Ceiling insulation is done with basalt wool. It is laid on the surface of the walls with a pre-fixed frame. The heat-insulating layer must exceed the thickness of a similar coating on the walls, since the warm air rising upward comes into contact with the ceiling surface, the temperature of which exceeds the rest of the temperature indicators. The insulating coating must be installed with slight gaps on the walls. In the future, it can be used to insulate walls by gluing the joints with foil tape.

The walls inside the bath are covered with an insulating compound after preliminary surface preparation. It needs to be given smoothness, therefore, cracks and cracks are putty between the brick walls. Wooden walls are treated to eliminate the appearance of mold and mildew. First, bars or plasterboard profiles are attached to the wall surface. Insulation is laid in the resulting space. On top of it, a hydro-vapor barrier coating is applied and a wooden crate is installed.

Before installing it, it is necessary to measure the width of the insulation material. The resulting dimensions may not be valid due to possible deformation during movement. Therefore, the lathing is fixed at a distance less than the resulting one so that the material is placed between the wall and the lathing with little effort. The heat insulator must be placed between them as tightly as possible in order to avoid the formation of gaps, allowing cold air to penetrate and the appearance of condensation drops. The height of the lathing should correspond to the thickness of the thermal insulation layer. The last stage is finishing.

Bars are attached to the wall surface with their own hands, a heat-insulating component is placed between them. Then, the insulating material is placed in the same place. With a well-defined distance, the heat insulator is held on the wall surface without the use of additional fasteners. In the places of connection, the foil heat insulator is sealed for tightness with adhesive tape with aluminum. Similarly, the places of contact of the insulating material with the crate are glued with a grip of at least 5 cm of insulation and a bar.

Sealing joints must be given special attention. to eliminate the possibility of liquid penetration into the insulation layer. In addition to laying a heat-insulating layer, moisture protection is installed for it. In the rooms of the steam room and the washing room, the method of foil vapor barrier is used, which at the same time will reflect heat. Subsequently, the bath will warm up with less time and fuel costs. To insulate the rest room and dressing room, the temperature of which is lower than in the steam room, you can use other heat-insulating materials. Their laying is carried out with the overlap of one slab by the other by 5 cm and with their subsequent fastening with brackets using a stapler.

The joints and staples for high-quality heat preservation are covered with a layer of foil tape. Do not leave a gap between the layers of vapor barrier material and insulation. A lathing made of wooden planks 20 mm thick is attached to the fixed bars for subsequent covering with clapboard.

The floors in the bath are of two types - wood or concrete. The technical side of laying a heat-insulating coating does not depend on the material of the floor, except that the concrete structure requires a slightly larger layer of insulation. The classic version of the raw material for creating an insulating layer in the floor is expanded clay. The thickness of the layer of the backfilled material must be accurately correlated with the thickness of the room wall. On average, the size of the expanded clay layer is 2 times the thickness of the walls. The degree of insulation can be increased by reasonably increasing the backfill layer.

Immediately before the procedure for falling asleep, it is necessary to mark the base. It is carried out by delimiting the area to be filled in into sections, the width of which is 1 m or another convenient size. The field with ready-made markings is covered with a vapor barrier film. When pulling, its edges along the wall should be located above the floor level. Laying the film is not necessary if roofing material is already on the surface of the base. To facilitate the work, the guides should be installed and their fasteners. They are located with support on the applied markings and are attached with nails or screws.

Along the border of the level, the placement of beacons is necessary - auxiliary parts, which will orient when filling expanded clay. The height of the installation of the guides is calculated depending on the required thickness of the insulation. Expanded clay must be poured onto the surface and leveled with a wooden lath of the appropriate length.

When insulating a wooden bath, the best option is a heater made of consumable material - sawdust. To ensure their vapor barrier, a simplified method can be used - the amount of wood insulation required for one cell between the bars is poured into a plastic bag. The properties of polyethylene prevent moisture penetration into the sawdust mass.

The procedure for warming involves starting work from the ceiling surface so as not to accidentally damage the walls and floor when processing it. In the area of ​​the chimney outlet, the temperature is high, therefore, for safety reasons, a mineral insulation is used - basalt wool. It is distinguished by its refractoriness and fire resistance. The passage of the pipe through the ceiling must be covered with a protective metal cover.

• Stage 1: ceiling insulation
• Stage 2: wall insulation
• Stage 3: floor insulation

Often people do not pay attention to the problem of thermal insulation of apartments and houses, but for baths it is of particular importance. After all, if you do not insulate the steam room, then heat will not linger in it for a long time. Therefore, it is so important to insulate the bath from the inside, paying special attention to the steam room. After all, it is in it that you have to spend more time.

• bars;
• self-tapping screws;
• nails;
• screw gun;
• saw;
• foil;
• Styrofoam;
• glass wool;
• waterproofing material;
• polyethylene film;
• clean paper;
• masking tape;
• anti-corrosion compound;
• building level;
• front panels;

Stage 1: ceiling insulation

Stage 2: wall insulation

The scheme of wall insulation in the bath.

Stage 3: floor insulation

Floor insulation scheme in the bath.

Thermal insulation scheme for the bath outside.

Do-it-yourself steam room insulation: step-by-step instructions (video and photo)

Do-it-yourself warming of the steam room is quite simple. You just need to read the step-by-step instructions and prepare everything you need to work.

Insulating the steam room from the inside step by step instructions

Thermal insulation of the steam room allows you to solve the problem of heat loss, otherwise the effect of visiting the bath will be reduced to zero. The thermal insulation of this room can be called high-quality if the insulation work is done with the ceiling, floor and walls.

The steam room must be kept at a high temperature. At the same time, heat loss must be minimized, and insulating the steam room from the inside will help to achieve the required level of thermal protection. When erecting a bath building, you should equip this room in accordance with all the rules.

The better the heat protection of the steam room is, the less fuel will be required to heat it during operation, and also the longer the steam can remain in it, which has a beneficial effect on the human body. Regardless of the construction material of the bath, the process of warming certainly consists of thermal insulation of the ceiling, floor covering and walls.

Materials used in the arrangement of steam rooms

To make the internal insulation of the steam room, in the old days people used exclusively environmentally friendly materials. They not only retained heat well and were easy to use, but at the same time had a number of disadvantages, including susceptibility to the decay process.

Modern materials meet many requirements for them:

• successfully withstand high temperatures;
• tolerate high air humidity well;
• do not emit substances harmful to human health;
• look aesthetically pleasing.

In order to insulate the steam room from the inside, use the following building materials:

• wooden slats (for arranging the lathing);
• mineral wool or glass wool;
• polyethylene film;
• penoizol (can be replaced with aluminum foil);
• expanded polystyrene;
• perlite;
• concrete solution;
• reinforcing mesh.

Before insulating the steam room in the bath from the inside, you should prepare the tools:

For the interior lining of the steam room, wooden slats, boards or lining are most often chosen, which depends on the personal preferences of the owner of the building. It is the tree that meets the operational requirements for such premises.

Low density hardwoods such as alder, maple, linden and aspen are ideal. As for conifers, at high temperatures, their wood will begin to release resin.

Insulation of the walls of the steam room from the inside

Correctly executed insulation of the walls of the steam room from the inside is a structure of several layers: steam, hydro and heat insulation. Particular attention should be paid to the arrangement of the first of them, since it must protect the remaining layers from the influence of hot steam. In the event of its penetration into the insulation, this material can get wet and lose all its properties.

Most often, a vapor barrier is equipped with aluminum foil or special insulators that are coated with a foil layer, for example, it can be penoizol (the material is shown in the photo). At the same time, experts do not recommend using such well-known vapor insulators as roofing material, polyethylene, glassine when cladding a steam room, since at high temperatures they begin to release toxins that are dangerous to human health.

In turn, the foil does not allow the insulation to get wet and at the same time provides the effect of a thermos, as a result of which the heat will be kept inside the room for a long time.

Waterproofing is essential to protect the insulation material from moisture. The fact is that a poorly laid waterproofing material in conditions of high humidity, namely, such air in a steam room, can provoke the onset of the decay process. The appearance of mold and mildew on the walls can cause irreparable harm to both the structure and the health of people.

For waterproofing, foil or special film materials are most often used. The joints of the canvases must be sealed with tape in order to prevent the penetration of steam and condensate into the insulation. All these materials for arranging waterproofing are mounted using a construction stapler.

The next layer when creating thermal protection for a steam room will be the installation of thermal insulation, which is done using materials that have the property of retaining heat. These include mineral wool and glass wool.

The first of the above-mentioned heaters is an environmentally friendly natural product. But mineral wool is afraid of moisture and loses its properties when wet. When using mineral wool, it is necessary in all possible ways to prevent the penetration of moist air, therefore this insulation is carefully wrapped with foil and films.

Glass wool differs from mineral wool in that it does not get wet and therefore it can be used to insulate the steam room from the inside. When the steam room is insulated from the inside, the step-by-step instructions suggest that work should be started by fixing a wooden crate to the walls, to which the insulation is then mounted.

Heat protection of the floor and ceiling from the inside

Basically, heat loss in the steam room occurs due to insufficient thermal insulation of the ceiling, since the streams of warm air always rise upward. For this reason, the ceiling should be insulated not only from the side of the room, but also from the side of the attic.

The thermal insulation of the ceiling from the side of the steam room is performed in the same way as it is done with the walls. First of all, a wooden crate is fixed. Then a heat-insulating material is attached to it, preferably glass wool. From above it is covered with a vapor barrier, and an external finishing layer is already mounted on it - most often a lining.

As for the ceiling from the side of the attic, it can be additionally insulated with straw, clay, sawdust or other materials. For fire safety, special mastics are used near the chimney.

Currently, various floor coverings are installed in steam rooms. You can insulate the floor, for example, with expanded polystyrene. This material is distinguished by high mechanical strength, rather low thermal conductivity, and besides, when it gets into a humid environment, it does not change its qualities.

When it is used to insulate the steam room from the inside, the step-by-step work is as follows:

1. A waterproofing layer is placed on a prepared flat base, using a special film, on which expanded polystyrene plates are placed tightly to one another.
2. To give the structure greater strength in order to increase the service life, a reinforcing mesh is mounted on the expanded polystyrene and a concrete solution is poured. When performing work, one must not forget about arranging a slight slope to ensure the drainage of water.
3. After the final hardening of the concrete, which usually takes about a month, you can start laying the finishing floor surface. Laying ceramic tiles is a good option.

It is also possible to insulate the floor of the steam room using such a natural material as perlite, which is sand expanded by a special method. To create insulation, take 2 parts of perlite and part of water, mix and combine with cement. The whole mass is thoroughly mixed.

The base of the floor of the steam room is poured with a concrete screed, on top of which an insulating mixture is placed and allowed to dry for a week. Then the screed is made again and the work is completed with a finishing floor covering from a finishing material.

Sometimes in the steam room, wooden gratings are placed on a high-quality concrete, solid and reliable floor, which should be periodically dried during operation in order to avoid rotting and quick deterioration.

How to insulate a steam room?

• What will be required to carry out the work?
• Stage 1: ceiling insulation
• Stage 2: wall insulation
• Stage 3: floor insulation
• Stage 4: insulation in the steam room outside

Often people do not pay attention to the problem of thermal insulation of apartments and houses, but for baths it is of particular importance. After all, if you do not insulate the steam room, then heat will not linger in it for a long time. Therefore, it is so important to insulate the bath from the inside. paying special attention to the steam room. After all, it is in it that you have to spend more time.

At the same time, it is necessary to insulate the steam room with high quality, performing all the work in stages. Below is a step-by-step instruction. She will help you in this not easy, but so important matter.

What will be required to carry out the work?

The first step is to prepare all the materials and tools that will be needed to insulate the steam room. Here is a list of them:

• roll heat-insulating material;
• bars;
• self-tapping screws;
• nails;
• screw gun;
• saw;
• foil;
• Styrofoam;
• glass wool;
• waterproofing material;
• polyethylene film;
• clean paper;
• masking tape;
• wood material for cladding (linden, aspen);
• anti-corrosion compound;
• building level;
• front panels;
• water-repellent varnish for wood.

Stage 1: ceiling insulation

The scheme of insulation of the ceiling in the steam room.

The first step is to insulate the steam room for the ceiling. First you need to cover it with roll paper, it is important that its joints are overlapped (from 10 to 15 cm). After that, it must be strengthened, otherwise deformation will occur during further work. To do this, you need to take the blocks (size 5x5 cm) and nail them to the roll of thermal insulation material.

It is important to create a monolithic coating here so that seams with cracks do not form, otherwise the tightness of the waterproofing will be broken.

As a result, steam will penetrate into the rolled thermal insulation material, which will lead to its deformation and deterioration of its operational characteristics.

The scheme of the ceiling device in the steam room.

Now you need to fix the foil with additional blocks. This will prevent it from peeling off, and the finished lathing will allow you to quickly lay the finishing material. The role of it should be wood. The use of non-sustainable materials here is simply unacceptable. After all, you will inhale the harmful substances that they emit while taking water procedures in the bath. As a result, instead of improving your health, you will, on the contrary, worsen it. It is great if you use linden or aspen for cladding the ceiling. These materials release special resins that heal the body and improve the atmosphere in the bath, as a pleasant smell is spread.

You can fix the finishing material on nails, be sure to pre-treat them with an anti-corrosion compound. The wood itself must be coated with a water-repellent varnish. It is best to do this before it is fixed to the ceiling. After all, then you can process it from all sides at once, which will extend its service life.

With the help of boards, you need to create an even coating. To eliminate the occurrence of distortion, be sure to use a building level. In addition, for finishing, choose only those boards that have the same thickness, otherwise differences in height in the finished coating cannot be avoided.

Stage 2: wall insulation

The scheme of wall insulation in the bath.

Do not assume that only the ceiling needs to be insulated. The walls also need additional finishing with insulating materials. Therefore, after completing the work with the ceiling, you will need to go to them. It is also necessary to start wall insulation with laying out roll material. It must then be nailed down with a wooden frame, on which foil is immediately lined. But here it is necessary to take it with a thickness of 65-70 mm. Indeed, much more heat goes through the walls than through the ceiling. Therefore, the use of a thinner material is not permissible here. Spread it with an overlap, and glue all joints several times with masking tape. Then it will be possible to make the surface of the walls as tight as possible. As a result, the steam room will be as warm as possible.

After that, a wooden frame is installed on the foil fixed on the surface of the walls. And already the finishing material is mounted on it. It is not necessary to use boards here. you can choose clapboard for the walls. By the way, it can also be used to decorate the ceiling, but then the insulation in the steam room will be a pretty penny, but if you have allocated a significant budget for this, then feel free to opt for this material. The aesthetic and performance properties will not disappoint you. The wall decoration will turn out to be great and will delight every time you take water procedures.

Stage 3: floor insulation

Floor insulation scheme in the bath.

Now you can insulate the floor in the steam room. Here work is carried out according to a slightly different scheme. The first step is to make waterproofing. It is necessary so that mold, fungus and rotting do not appear inside the floor. This layer will protect the floor from condensation. To create it, you will need to use plastic wrap. It is laid out on the entire surface of the floor. If seams are present, make large seams and glue them with masking tape.

Next, you need to create another layer on top of the film. It must be laid out from clean solid paper. It is necessary so that no harmful substances are released from the subfloor. In addition, such a layer will minimize the loss of hot air. You will definitely need to fix a wooden frame of a small width on it. And on the frame you need to lay out and fix the mineral wool slabs with self-tapping screws.

Then the following material is laid out on the surface of the floor: foam. It needs to be fastened on top of cotton wool on small carnations. After that, it will be necessary to cover it with foil, and put another plastic wrap on it. So many layers must be created in order to minimize heat leakage through the floor, which occurs in large quantities through it. As a result, the insulation will turn out to be of very high quality.

And the last thing that needs to be done is to create another frame on the floor surface. It should be thicker than the previous one. It is required for subsequent finishing. Indeed, boards will need to be laid out on the floor surface. Pre-treat them with a water-repellent varnish.

Stage 4: insulation in the steam room outside

If your bathhouse is wooden, then it is imperative to insulate it from the outside. After all, a sealed floor, walls and ceiling in this case will not be enough. Therefore, here you need to create a crate outside the bath, on which slabs of mineral wool should be laid. They need to be fixed with screws or nails. Then a plastic wrap is lined. Next, the front panels are laid on it. All of them must be varnished. This will protect them from adverse environmental factors.

Warming in a steam bath consists of these stages. As it becomes clear, it is necessary to carry out comprehensive work here. It is not enough to insulate only the surface of the walls and floor; you also need to not forget about the ceiling and outer cladding. This is the only way to do quality work. Its result will not disappoint you. And since all the instructions are presented in an accessible form and are step-by-step, using it, you can do everything yourself.

The main thing is to prepare all the necessary tools and materials in advance. We wish you good luck with insulating the steam room!

How to insulate a steam room in a bath with your own hands

Foreword... In Russia, since ancient times, baths were built from log cabins, today, along with this traditional material, timber, foam block, expanded clay and other modern materials are used. Thermal insulation of the steam room will solve the problem of rapid heat loss and the heat from the steam room will not go away so quickly.

How to properly insulate a steam room in a wooden bath? The thermal insulation of the dressing room and the steam room will be of high quality if the work touches all three planes of the steam room - the floor, walls and ceiling. Most of the heat escapes through the ceiling of the bath, but the rest of the surfaces should not be ignored, including the door to the bath. Consider how to properly insulate a steam room in a bath.

Do I need to insulate the steam room in the bath

Photo. Do-it-yourself steam room insulation

Despite the low thermal conductivity of modern and traditional materials, any steam room needs high-quality insulation. Especially when it comes to internal thermal insulation of structures in the steam room - walls, floor and ceiling. Thermal insulation of the steam room is a very responsible matter; during the work, you should strictly follow the instructions of the manufacturers and take into account other nuances.

For example, not all heat and vapor barrier materials can be used for finishing the floor and ceiling in a bath. Many materials do not withstand moisture, and if you use roofing material or glassine in this room, then visiting the steam room can spoil the unpleasant odors from these materials. The choice of thermal insulation is carried out depending on the material from which the bath was built.

How to insulate a steam room in a bath from the inside

The most common materials for the construction of bath walls are logs, beams, foam concrete, aerated concrete or expanded clay concrete. Compared to natural wood, the thermal conductivity of the blocks is higher, which means that the thermal insulation of the steam room is simply necessary. But, before considering the technology of work, you should figure out how and how to insulate a steam room in a bath from a bar with your own hands.

If basalt wool was chosen as thermal insulation, then a high-quality vapor barrier of mineral wool should be made, since this material absorbs moisture. The most balanced solution for finishing wet rooms is penoplex or foil-clad penofol. Extruded polystyrene foam is often used for self-insulation of strip foundations and blind areas of a private house.

For owners of baths from blocks, there is no question whether or not the room needs to be insulated from the inside. It is important to learn how to insulate a steam room in a bathhouse from blocks on your own. Thermal insulation technology is divided into three main stages: arrangement and insulation of walls, floors, and the ceiling of the steam room of a bathhouse made of bricks. All work can be done on your own and inexpensively.

How to insulate the walls of the steam room with your own hands

Photo. Thermal insulation of walls in a steam room made of logs

Thermal insulation of log walls in the steam room from the inside is a layered "cake" of vapor barrier, heat-insulating and waterproofing layer. A vapor barrier film from the side of a warm room protects the mineral wool from moisture and steam, in addition, it additionally creates the effect of a "thermos" in the steam room and is a natural reflector of heat.

Rolled waterproofing prevents moisture from entering the walls from a log or timber, protects the structure from condensation and the formation of fungus and prevents the process of rotting of the structure. To do this, use plastic wrap, expanded polyethylene or foil. The waterproofing film is placed between the thermal insulation layer and the walls in a steam room made of blocks or wood.

The insulation layer itself is laid between the guides fixed to the wall. When installing the frame, please note that the distance between the guides should be 1 cm less than the width of the mineral wool slab so that the basalt slab fits snugly into the frame. If you use slab thermal insulation, then all gaps should be thoroughly foamed.

How to insulate the ceiling of the steam room with your own hands

Photo. Thermal insulation of the ceiling in the steam room

If many neglect the thermal insulation of the walls, then it is simply necessary to do the insulation of the ceiling in the steam room with your own hands in any bath. Since this part of any building is the most vulnerable in terms of heat loss. Hot air leaves the room through the ceiling ceiling of the steam room in a short time.

For thermal insulation of the ceiling in the steam room, they used to use inexpensive foot materials - sawdust mixed with ordinary earth or expanded clay. Loose thermal insulation covered the ceiling boards above the steam room, thereby significantly reducing the heat loss of the room. These "old-fashioned" methods, even with the arrival of new materials, have not lost their relevance to this day.

The ideal option for finishing the ceiling in the steam room is the thermal insulation of this structure from the outside, i.e. from the attic side. To do this, use glass wool or basalt insulation. Where the chimney pipe comes out of the ceiling, you should use a non-combustible insulation - expanded clay or Minvata Rocklight. Let's consider further how to insulate the floor in a steam room.

How to insulate the floor of the steam room with your own hands

Photo. Thermal insulation of the floor in the steam room with penoplex

Consider a more common option for floor insulation in a steam room - using foam or extruded polystyrene foam. Penoplex extrusion meets all the necessary requirements for the thermal insulation of wet rooms. This material does not absorb moisture, is not afraid of rodents, but the insulation should be laid only on a flat base.

Most often, the floor in the bath is insulated under the screed. To do this, a waterproofing film is laid on the ground to protect it from groundwater, then a slab insulation is laid. Gaps and gaps between the plates should be sealed with polyurethane foam. At the end, a reinforcing mesh is laid and a concrete screed is made. For waterproofing concrete, use a penetrating composition of penetron or water glass.

For finishing the floor in the steam room, floor tiles or porcelain stoneware are used. You can also lay the wood floor on logs to make your feet feel more pleasant and warm.

How to insulate a steam room

Without a good steam room, the bath loses its meaning of existence. During the construction of the baths, special attention is paid to this room. The main task of the steam room is to store hot air and steam for a long time, to ensure the quality of bath procedures at the highest level. And the main job of the builders is to insulate the steam room in the bath in such a way as to exclude long heating and rapid cooling, to increase the concentration of steam.

Poorly performed thermal insulation work, the use of low-quality materials will inevitably lead to the appearance of dampness, mold, rotting of wooden structures. This applies to all surfaces of the steam room: floor, walls, ceiling. It is very important to scrupulously and step by step carry out the work on insulating the steam room from the inside, step by step instructions will help you to correctly navigate in the sequence of actions and the choice of materials.

The choice of insulation

The steam room is a specific room, therefore, the choice of heat-insulating materials for walls, ceiling and floor should be approached responsibly. Insulation for the steam room should be moisture resistant, not afraid of significant temperatures, and not emit toxic substances. Most of all, mineral wool is suitable for these definitions, or rather its type - stone or basalt wool. It is also produced in the form of plates of various thicknesses and dimensions. The material is easily cut with an ordinary construction knife, so stone wool slabs are very easy to adjust to the required dimensions. For arranging the floor and ceiling from the outside, bulk insulation is used - expanded clay or expanded perlite.

Foil-clad material is the most suitable as vapor and waterproofing for steam rooms. It is available on a foam base or on kraft paper. You can use any of them, but in the case of warming the steam room from the inside, preference is usually given to the second option.

The procedure for performing insulation procedures

The process of insulating the steam room in the bath goes from top to bottom. That is, work begins from the ceiling, then the walls and, last of all, the floor. It will not be superfluous to remind you that before starting insulation work, you should clean the wooden surfaces from dust, signs of fungal manifestations. It is necessary to treat the wood with antiseptic preparations and a fire retardant, since it is possible to insulate the steam room in the bath from the inside efficiently and efficiently only on a well-prepared basis.

Ceiling insulation

Ceiling insulation is most conveniently done from the attic side. Ideally, do it from both sides, because the ceiling is one of the most vulnerable parts of any building, especially the baths. It is through this structure that the largest share of heat loss from the inside occurs. So, from above:

• a layer of a rolled vapor barrier is attached to the rough ceiling, tightly closing all joints and overlap on the pediment and rafters;
• a layer of expanded clay or foamed perlite is poured, leveled;
• in the places of contact of the thermal insulation with the chimney, they are treated with fire retardant mastics.

Thermal insulation of a steam room in a wooden bath from the inside on the ceiling is as follows. If the ceiling structure below has a smooth surface, then a frame is built on it. In the case of ribs, this is not necessary. The first layer of the thermal insulation cake is a vapor barrier membrane, which is attached to the base, observing the configuration of the ribbed surface. Then, stone wool slabs are placed as tightly as possible between the beams and covered with another layer of vapor barrier. The next stage of warming the steam room, its upper part, is the device of a protective layer of foil material. The joints between the individual sheets are sealed with aluminum foil tape. Particular attention must be paid to the places where the ceiling meets the walls in order to prevent the slightest possibility of the appearance of "cold bridges". If necessary, use polyurethane foam.

Baths are built not only from wood, there are options for brick buildings. In such buildings, the process of performing thermal insulation works looks somewhat different. Thermal insulation of a steam room in a brick bath begins at the stage of construction of the roof structure. The supporting ceiling beams, which are to be embedded in brick walls, are wrapped with two or three layers of glassine or roofing material before laying. The nests for them are made a little wider than the beams themselves, the free space is filled with polyurethane foam or mortar. Outside, the recesses are covered with masonry. Further, the installation of the ceiling structure is carried out, and the insulation is performed in the same way as in a log house.

Thermal insulation of walls

Warming of the wall surfaces of a brick bath begins with the application of a waterproofing layer on them. Most often, roll materials or mastics that do not contain bitumen are used. Because the specific smell of this material, when heated, can penetrate into the room and spoil the positive impression of visiting the steam room. Further, the process of producing thermal insulation works for walls made of brick and wood is the same and is performed in the following order:

• vertically spaced bars are stuffed on the walls with a step equal to the width of the stone wool slabs;
• using a construction stapler, a vapor barrier membrane is attached, carefully wrapping each beam with it;
• insulating material is tightly placed between the bars in one or two layers, depending on the thickness of the plates; stone wool is a little springy, so it holds well by itself and does not require additional fastening;
• the upper vapor barrier layer is made of aluminum foil on kraft paper, you can use foil-based material on a foam basis, but the first option works more reliably in humid conditions.

The foil is fastened end-to-end, and the seams are closed with a special protective tape on an adhesive basis. All work must be done carefully and responsibly, but the sealing of the corners and joints between the walls and the ceiling surface requires special care.

Floor insulation

It is no less important to make warm floors in the steam room than to insulate the walls and ceiling with high quality. You can use two options: using board materials or bulk materials. However, in both cases, it is necessary to start with surface leveling and a rough preparation device. And here, too, there can be two versions: with a drain and without it. By and large, water is not used in the steam room, so there is no need to arrange a drain hole there. But some developers do it. Then, when arranging a floor cake, starting from the preparatory layer, slopes are made towards the drain. Otherwise, the floor must be strictly horizontal. Now about the floor structure itself:

1. Warming with expanded polystyrene plates. According to the rough preparation, a layer of waterproofing is laid with a slight overlap on the walls. Then the insulation plates are laid in one or two rows, depending on the thickness. The next step is the laying of the reinforcing mesh and then the screed with cement-sand mortar.
2. For insulation with bulk materials, expanded clay or perlite is used. In the beginning, be sure to do waterproofing. Then a layer of dry insulation of the required thickness is poured, leveled with a plastering rule according to the level. The covering layer is made with a concrete mixture or mortar.

The clean floor in the sauna is made of rough ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware. Traditional wood flooring is often used. The terrace board behaves perfectly. In addition, its use is useful in terms of safety, since the board has a grooved surface and does not slip.

Wall and ceiling cladding in the steam room

For cladding the walls and ceiling in the steam room, wooden lining is usually used. Each owner chooses and equips the design of the steam room of the bathhouse to his liking. However, there are general rules that must be followed. First of all, it is the type of wood from which the lining is made. Linden, aspen, larch are considered the most suitable. The use of rocks containing a large amount of resin is undesirable. At high temperatures, they give off vapors with a heavy odor. The next requirement is that the lining should not have knots, cracks and other defects. That is, high quality material is best suited for facing the steam room.

The principle of wall and ceiling cladding is traditional. A crate is made on aluminum foil with the location of the bar for the planned layout of the lining. Then the strips are attached to the frame, connecting them with thorn-groove locks.

Warming the steam room from the inside - step by step instructions

Before insulating the steam room, the owner of the bath must choose the correct thermal insulation material, focusing on the following recommendations:

First, the insulator must exhibit high stopping power. The heat transfer coefficient should not rise above 0.2 W / (m K). And that's just for flooring. And for wall and ceiling insulation, it is better to use a material with a coefficient of 0.2 W / (m K).

Secondly, the insulator must not react to moisture. Especially outdoor material. For walls and ceilings, we can use a membrane or reflector that cuts off moisture, but in the case of a floor, this material will not work.

Thirdly, an open (floor) insulator must have high mechanical strength. There are no special requirements for the walls and attic floor. Here, the characteristics of the material can be increased by external finishing.

Fourthly, the insulation of the steam room assumes constant contact of the material with the area of ​​high temperatures. Some amateurs manage to heat the room up to 100-120 degrees Celsius, and 75-80 ° C is considered a normal temperature. Therefore, the insulation should not melt or catch fire even in the case of a long, many hours stay in this temperature range.

Fifth, the material must be absolutely neutral to the human body. The release of harmful substances and the provocation of allergic reactions is excluded in principle. People go to the bathhouse for health, and not for new sores.

As a result, granular expanded clay should be recognized as the best insulation option for the field. He is not afraid of either mechanical stress or moisture. It is better to put plain or foil mineral (basalt) wool on the walls and ceiling. It will withstand heating, and a finishing layer will protect it from moisture and possible mechanical stress.

Polyfoam, expanded polystyrene, foil-clad polyethylene are not suitable for warming a steam room - they cannot withstand heating even up to 70 degrees Celsius.

Well, now that we have selected the materials, you can proceed to the direct insulation of the steam room from the inside, having previously studied the step-by-step instructions for the floor, ceiling and walls.

How to insulate the floor - layer-by-layer review

To do this, we will have to form a multilayer structure in the direction from the ground, consisting of waterproofing, thermal insulation and finishing. The first layer is waterproofing. It is made in the form of a plastic film, which is laid on the prepared soil. Moreover, the preparation consists in adding a layer of sand, with a thickness of 15 centimeters.

The second layer is thermal insulation. Formed on the basis of expanded clay bedding. The thickness of this layer is usually equal to twice the thickness of the walls and ranges from 30 to 40 centimeters. Moreover, upon completion of the formation of the bedding layer, we must go to the level of the first crown of the bathhouse.

Expanded clay is perfect for thermal insulation of the steam room floor

Next, a reinforcing mesh with 20-cm cells is laid on expanded clay and a screed is poured using a sand-cement mortar with a filler. The optimum screed thickness is from 5 to 8 centimeters. At the same time, along the perimeter of the floor, at the level of the future plinth, it is necessary to fill a waterproof foil skirt that protects the logs from contact with concrete.

For finishing the heat-resistant floor, use tiles or boards laid on the crate.

We insulate the ceiling - step by step instructions

To insulate the ceiling in the steam room, a completely different heat insulator is needed - foil mineral wool. It can withstand heating up to 700 degrees Celsius and can easily withstand the usual temperature in this zone of the steam room, which does not rise above 160-180 ° C.

The finishing process itself begins with covering the ceiling with an antiseptic primer, which protects the boards from mildew and mildew. The second step is to fill the sheathing boards on the ceiling, the depth of which should be equal to the thickness of the insulation (usually 10 centimeters). The pitch of the boards is equal to the width of a standard strip of mineral wool.

The ceiling is insulated with foil mineral wool

The third step is laying the insulation. After completing the assembly of the lathing, the space between the boards is filled with mineral wool, laid with foil outside (towards the floor). And all joints are carefully glued with foil tape. After completing the work, there should be no gaps in the ceiling.

The final step is installation over the lathing of a finishing board (lining) or plywood panels. Moreover, in this case, it is necessary to read the description of the specification for the lining - options from pine and spruce and other resinous trees are not suitable in this case. The ideal lining for a bath is made from hard deciduous trees.

How to insulate the walls in the steam room - an overview of the process

Arrangement of vertical thermal insulation on the walls of the bath does not require the use of expensive foil-clad mineral wool. In this case, it is enough to take ordinary mineral wool and aluminum foil, which will serve as a good vapor barrier and high temperature shield.

The installation process itself is as follows:

• We saturate the walls with an antiseptic - it will protect the frame from rot and fungus.
• We stuff boards on the walls with a thickness of 3-4 centimeters and a width of 2-3 cm more than the depth of the insulation. The pitch of the boards should match the width of the rockwool roll. At the end, all boards must be impregnated with an antiseptic.
• We put mineral wool on dry logs (the antiseptic must dry), filling the spaces between the boards.
• We stuff aluminum foil over the sheathing, rolling it in horizontal stripes from bottom to top. In this case, the upper strip should overlap the lower one (2-3 centimeters will be enough). And here it is better to use staples (from a stapler) as fasteners. Moreover, it is better to glue the joints with foil tape.
• We fill the boards with strips 2 centimeters thick, pre-soaked with an antiseptic. This will form the counter grill. And at the end, on top of these planks, we mount the hardwood lining.

Such a scheme allows you to assemble a very effective thermal insulation, protected from mechanical influences by finishing from the lining. Therefore, almost all steam rooms are finished according to this scheme.

Warming the steam room from the inside step by step video instructions

Warming the steam room from the inside step-by-step instruction video Warming the steam room allows you to solve the problem with the loss of heat, otherwise the effect of visiting the bath will be reduced to zero. Thermal insulation

Warming the steam room from the inside on your own

The bath helps us to relax not only with our body, but also with our soul.

Therefore, it is important that finishing materials not only fulfill their direct function, but also please with an attractive appearance.

A few general rules

The first step before the next treatment is to prepare the work surfaces.

It is necessary to inspect the base for whether there is fungus and mold on it.

Foreign inclusions and protrusions must also be absent.

To get rid of the fungus, it is enough to use a conventional antiseptic composition.

Without it, the insulation of the steam room from the inside will remain ineffective.

It is important to pay attention to the safety of materials.

The main requirement in this case is the ability to withstand high temperatures. Materials must not absorb moisture, must have reliable protection against mold.

And stay durable. Aluminum foil and basalt are good, modern solutions. The technology itself plays just as important a role as the materials.

How can isolation be done

In the course of the work we will get a kind of "sandwich". It usually consists of several layers.

• Waterproofing. Prevents the appearance of fungal and mold growth. And prevents the activation of decay processes. This layer also protects the walls from condensation. It forms when hot steam is exposed to the surface. Plastic wrap or foil is considered the best waterproofing material. This is also required by the insulation of the steam room from the inside in a wooden bath.
• Thermal insulation. Plain, clean paper is first laid on the base. The insulating layer is applied only after that. The paper base makes it so that even the minimum amount of harmful substances is not released into the air. The paper makes the minimum amount of hot air escape. After that, a wooden frame is attached from above with the same width as that of the insulation material itself. Synthetic board or rock wool are often excellent insulation materials.
• A vapor barrier is required to protect the thermal insulation from the effects of steam. It also reflects heat radiation. And it creates a kind of "thermos" effect. This layer is made of foil, with a thickness of up to 65 microns. Installation is carried out to the lathing made of wood. What are small nails or a stapler used for? The main thing is to carefully cover all edges and joints with foil. Then the steam will definitely not penetrate into the insulation.
• Internal cladding. For which all surfaces are faced with clapboard. The frame is mounted on top of the thermal insulation layer. The lining itself, which is made from different types of wood, is also laid on the frame itself. The most important characteristic in this case is the minimum density.

What materials to choose

The question is not only about choosing between materials of artificial and natural origin. There are several other factors to consider.

This applies to the purpose and appearance, cost. Materials that solve this issue can be attributed to one of the following groups, depending on their properties.

• Wall blocks and slabs.
• Matte and lamellar, fibrous varieties.
• Backfills with different densities

Several groups are distinguished by chemical composition:

• Which have a plastic base. This includes Styrofoam and Styrofoam.
• Technoblocks and technovets. This is a group of techno-heaters.
• Inorganic compounds include glass and mineral wool, basalt fiber.
• Organic. This includes wood concrete and fibrolite, aquavata.

Each of the varieties has both advantages and disadvantages. For example, plastic heaters are not very suitable for insulating steam rooms from the inside.

This is due to the fact that such a base does not resist the effects of open fire. But they can insulate other rooms that are part of the bathhouse.

In turn, organic substrates benefit from environmental friendliness. Their cost always remains affordable. But, if you do not use special compounds for processing, the material remains flammable.

Inorganic varieties are considered more versatile and practical. This is why mineral wool has become such a popular solution.

Internal insulation will be more effective with materials such as:

• Aluminum foil
• Polyethylene materials
• Glassine base
• Ruberoid types

Vapor barrier with glassine and roofing felt will not give the desired result. After all, these materials, when exposed to high temperatures, emit chemically active and harmful substances.

But glassine in general is often taken in order to insulate baths. But best of all, it has proven itself in conjunction with materials such as lining, aluminum foil, mineral wool and frame.

There are several schemes according to which insulation is performed. But one of them has become the most widespread. For example, when using lining with fibrous insulation.

• It all starts with the fact that a frame is created on the working wall surface. We take lathing laths, horizontal and vertical, we fix them on the wall. The timber should be thicker than the insulation, but only by 20-30 millimeters. This margin is necessary to predict possible shifts.
• After that, the wall is sheathed using mineral wool.
• The vapor barrier layer is laid on the insulation. The main thing is to overlap the materials. For places with joints, their sealing, thin slats are used. A distance of about 3 centimeters should remain between the mineral wool and the vapor barrier.
• The lining is stuffed onto the surface of the vertical lathing. The width of the latter is 40-50 mm. There is still a distance, which will be a kind of gap for the ventilation system.

Such work has proven to be effective. But they require certain costs, both in terms of time and effort.

There are now materials on the market that greatly simplify the whole process. Moreover, they combine the function of waterproofing and vapor barrier.

One of these options is foil foam. This is a fire-resistant insulation; no problems arise during its installation. As you can see, the insulation of the steam room from the inside is not so complicated technology.

The scheme described above is well suited for the installation of timber buildings. Panel and frame structures have their own requirements for this process. There are several lightweight materials that will become indispensable helpers when working with panel walls:

Treatment of the heat insulator with milk of lime is an additional requirement. In the future, it will be necessary to dry the base properly. Thanks to this, the fire resistance is increased, rotting will no longer threaten the material.

If the walls are operated in difficult conditions from the point of view of climate, then the walls can be covered with fiberboard, or their analogue - reed slabs. In warm regions, the use of gypsum, cement and chipboard compounds will be relevant.

The order of work for ceilings

Ceilings are most affected by temperatures, which are often 160 degrees. The process of insulation itself and its features depend on the structure of the ceiling itself.

The work will look like this in the presence of an attic or ceiling.

• Cover the ceiling boards with clay. Its layer should be about 20 mm thick.
• Clay is needed in order to effectively retain moisture.
• Wood chips are poured into the cracks that form between the boards.
• Can be used for thermal insulation and other materials. The main thing is that their thickness is at least 200 mm.

The insulation scheme for rooms where the attic is absent looks somewhat different. First, a vapor barrier material is laid there. Sheathing and insulating layer are next, then - ceiling boards with beam beams.

Depending on the materials used and the design features, the order of work will always differ.

Places where insulation and pipes fit together. Between them, an indent of about 200 millimeters must be made in order not to violate fire safety requirements. For this, a special box is constructed from the rafter legs.

It is he who will become the part that separates one part of the structure from another.

The main thing when insulating a bath is to make sure that there are no places through which warm air could leave the room. It is also necessary by all means to prevent the formation of condensation.

About floor insulation

There are two solutions you can use to insulate your steam room floor.

Polystyrene has the important advantage of being a honeycomb structure. Thanks to this, moisture will never penetrate into the material. The thermal insulation properties remain high, even if the surface is subjected to severe mechanical stress.

Thermal insulation of the steam room from the inside

But this material is most often used in baths, which are built of bricks.

It requires additional protection, because the brick itself easily conducts moisture inside.

Expanded polystyrene is a material that meets all safety requirements.

But the surface requires preliminary preparation before using such a material.

The main requirements are strength and evenness. Thorough drying is indispensable.

A layer of waterproofing is placed on top of the material prepared in advance. Then, from above, the polystyrene foam plates themselves are installed.

It is important here to make sure that there are no places left without processing. Gaps and crevices can cause the formation of so-called cold bridges, so they should also be absent.

Decorative coatings are also laid on top, but only after the base has completely dried. Ceramic tiles are one of the best solutions today.

But the creation of a demountable floor made of wood is also allowed. It fits perfectly into the interior of the bath. And walking on such a surface is very pleasant. With a removable structure, you can dry the boards without any problems, which extends the overall service life.

About ventilation in the bath

It is impossible not to consider this issue, touching on the topic of insulation.

Particularly stringent requirements are imposed on this part of the system in the bath. Ventilation should not only provide airflow to the interior of the room. It is important that it does not let the cold pass inside, but retains the warmth.

To solve this problem, it is necessary to create special supply and exhaust ducts. An inlet is located near the stove, slightly above the floor level.

As for the exhaust duct, it should be on the opposite side, in the upper part of the room. Special dampers provide air flow regulation. One more condition must be met for the system to function normally - that the inlet is half the size of the outlet.

The work is regulated by valves. If you manage them correctly, you can achieve the desired results. If you open only one valve, only pleasant aromas will remain in the room, the air will be fresh. Intensive forced ventilation is organized by opening two valves at once.

About waterproofing the floor

The base and its materials determine which insulation method is used in a particular case. Each method should be considered separately.

Concrete floor insulation

This is the simplest and most affordable waterproofing solution for those with a steam room. It is suitable for sinks where the floor is completely filled with concrete. The order of work will be as follows.

• First, the floor surface is leveled until there are no deviations at all. Even the slightest dimples and bumps are unacceptable.
• After that, proceed to the application of bituminous mastic. We must wait until it dries.
• Polyethylene film, roofing material are laid on top of this layer.
• The base of the floor is ready, you can proceed to laying the ceramic tiles.

There is also a second method. Its implementation is more complicated. But the result justifies all the costs, such waterproofing will pleasantly surprise you with its high quality. There are several steps to take.

• A plywood sheet is fixed on the surface of the subfloor.
• Hydrosol is placed on top of plywood. This is a material whose edges lead behind the wall.
• All joints in the waterproofing layer are reinforced with aluminum tape.
• Places of seams and joints that have remained untreated are sealed with an ordinary construction hairdryer.
• Next comes the laying of the reinforced mesh, the laying of the concrete solution.
• The last stage includes decorative cladding.

To prevent all walls from getting dirty, the lining is covered with tape. It is also necessary to look at how old the log house is for the bath. Until the moment of complete shrinkage, buildings usually stand at least two years. Otherwise, the floor surface will deform.

We insulate the wooden floor

This insulation method is very similar to what we wrote about earlier. Differs in the simplest step-by-step instructions.

• A layer of mineral wool mat with a minimum thickness of 15 cm is fixed under the lags.
• Roofing material or euroruberoid is fixed over the first layer.
• Wooden structures require mandatory antiseptic treatment. This will eliminate the risk of rotting. And will protect materials from spontaneous combustion, eating by insects.
• The subfloor must be laid on top of the antiseptic layer. After that, everything is sheathed using lining.
• Only the decorative cladding will remain.

Insulation of the door with mineral wool

Thermal insulation of a bath is a process that takes place somewhat differently than in other rooms.

The main difference is the high temperature and humidity, which persist here all the time.

But solving the problem is not difficult if you follow simple rules.

The seals should be installed on the wall as tightly as possible.

This will avoid the appearance of cracks and cracks through which hot or cold air passes inward.

There will be less chance of excessive moisture and condensation in the bath.

Drying of the insulation is provided only by ventilation gaps, therefore it is not recommended to forget about them.

Ceilings must withstand the highest temperatures, this is always worth remembering. The main thing is not to use materials for insulation in this part of the room that are too easily deformable.

Or those species that release harmful chemicals when exposed to high temperatures. Condensation collects on plastic without any problems.

Doors, thresholds in the room also affect the performance of thermal insulation. A large gap under the door can lead to a low heat capacity of the steam room. There is always a solution - just install low doors that have a large sill.

• Warming the steam room from the inside on your own

  
  The bath helps us to relax not only with our body, but also with our soul. Therefore, it is important that finishing materials not only fulfill their direct function, but also