DIY bar stools made of metal drawings. Making a bar stool with your own hands

If your house or apartment has a bar counter, you can complement it with exclusive chairs. To do this, you only need a few simple carpentry tools, a piece of plywood or board, bars and a little free time. So, we will describe in detail how to make a bar stool with your own hands.

Bar stool details and their dimensions

In fact, a bar stool is a high stool with footrests. Depending on your desire, it can be either massive, made of thick timber, or light, elegant, with round or square legs. The principle of its assembly in any case will be the same.

The height of the bar stools should be such that 30-45 cm remain between them and the tabletop. The seat can be made of prefabricated boards or two plywood circles(it is better to take plywood thicker, from 3 mm, so that it does not bend and break under the weight of the weight). The first circle will serve as an intermediate mount, and the second will serve as a seat.

For a country-style room, you can make a more massive bar stool with thick square legs. If they expand slightly downwards, then the product will turn out not only more aesthetically pleasing in appearance, but also more stable. Round and even turned legs can be ordered from a carpentry workshop or bought from an online store. If you know how to work with wood a little, you can carve them yourself even on the simplest home-made lathe. Curvilinear parts are sawn out with a circle saw (bow saw).

Round and chiseled legs

Sawing details

1. Just like for a regular stool, for a bar stool we need: 1 seat, 4 legs, 4 legs (bars connecting the legs in the middle or lower part) and 4 drawers (bars located under the seat). Naturally, all paired parts must be equal in size.

2. For ripping, it is better to fix the workpiece in the clamp of the workbench.

3. To obtain a stable product, cuts must be made strictly at 90 °.

4. Do not forget that when determining the length of the prolegs and the side, it is necessary to add the length of the spikes to it.

5. Sawing starts from one end, and, having reached the middle, they take out the workpiece, turn it over, fix it again and continue to work on the other side. Since in order to obtain a smooth surface, we will have to grind off the edge and then grind it with sandpaper, it is worth leaving a small allowance of 5 millimeters.

6. In order not to catch a burr, we carefully process each detail first with a large and then with a small pinch.

original bar stool

Spikes and grooves

On the network, some users recommend not to bother and screw the legs onto the bolts. Moreover, such products have recently begun to appear even on the shelves of furniture stores. But, alas, a chair assembled by this method will loosen in a couple of weeks. Therefore, we advise you to use the standard furniture assembly method - tenon-groove connection. In this case, the end of the part enters the groove, in which the fibers are located across, which makes it possible to ensure high strength of the product. With a tight fit, such a connection is able to withstand even an oblique load.

tongue-and-groove connection

On a milling machine, it can be done in a matter of minutes. However, manually, in the old-fashioned way, it is quite possible to prepare several tenon-groove fasteners for a chair. To do this, it is enough to have at hand only jigsaw or saw with fine teeth and rasp. The grooves are cleaned chisel. It is very convenient to choose a tree from a groove engraver- steel cutter

1. The width of the tenon-groove connection according to the standard should be equal to one third of the thickness of the workpiece, and its length should be 80% of the width of the part.

2. The location of the prolegs is determined arbitrarily. Since the legs of the bar stool are quite long, the design can be strengthened with additional thin prongs located closer to the seat. They are made thinner than the lower ones.

3. Work begins with the creation of a groove. In this case, the spike will be easier to fit using the groove as a template. We outline its length by making a line with a pencil on the side of the timber. First, we prepare several small holes in a row with a drill or screwdriver, and then choose a chisel excess wood.

4. Now we do Thorn. It is more convenient to cut it with a jigsaw or a saw with fine teeth. We pre-fix the workpiece in the clamp of the workbench. For fastening a bar of small thickness (up to 4 cm), a single spike is sufficient.

Creating a cleat for a tenon

Can be made and plug-in spikes (dowels). The holes for them (as well as for standard spikes) are prepared a little deeper by 2 mm of the depth of their driving - we will drip glue into this free space. Accordingly, it is necessary to drive the spike into the hole so that it rises 3-4 mm less than the thickness of the part.

Plug-in spikes (dowels)

Assembly order

1. To check first collect the chair dry, without glue: we connect the first two legs with a drawstring and a proleg, then we prepare the second same frame, and only then we connect both frames. We check all corners with a square. Beveled or heaped parts will give the product a sloppy look, so even minor defects should be eliminated.

2. If there are no errors, we drip into the holes a little glue, carefully distribute it with a small brush or a torch and with a rubber mallet (mallet) carefully hammer it into a spike.

3. So that the prolegs (lower bars) can serve as a support for the legs, it is better to lower them lower.

Thinner additional prolegs can be made closer to the seat

4. We attach the seat to the drawers with screws or glue.

5. After the glue has completely dried, the product can simply be stained or painted in the desired color.

6. As a stuffing material for the seat, we use foam rubber or polystyrene, and for the upholstery itself, synthetic leather or any durable fabric - furniture, tapestry, etc.

7. The seat of the bar stool can be simply painted in a contrasting color.

Bar stool with decorative seat

Video: How to make a simple bar stool

Another "last" product that drank my blood at almost all stages. In its manufacture, I had to strain and apply the previously acquired skills and try something new (more on that later).

I was prompted to make this bar stool by a comment to one of my posts: "Can you make a bar stool?" and the start of harvesting season. The fact is that the same mushrooms and other vegetables - fruits are more convenient to process next to the sink, the sink is high - 85 cm. It's hard to stand on your feet for a long time, and a simple chair - a stool is low. So I decided to make my wife a high stool pathetically calling it "bar stool".

Photo for seed

Trouble with the chair began almost at the stage of acquiring lumber. It was supposed to use a bar with a section of 30 * 30, however, due to its absence, it was necessary to buy 30 * 40, moreover, spliced, which later required a recalculation of the entire structure, inconvenience in the production of one of the operations and a general slight, but still more expensive project.

Let's start drinking. I sawed 4 bars 570 mm long and 4 450 mm each.

First, I made two blanks from a long-short-long bar, then glued a couple more short ones between them. And again, in addition to the clamps, I had to use clamps from the grinder and circular.

I made a milling box from scraps of plywood and boards prepared for the manufacture of seats. Since bars of a larger section were used, the box had to be made larger, more wood was milled, and the final milling stage was done with the cutter extended out of the collet as much as possible. It was still necessary to dissolve the bars in the size of 30 * 30 as planned earlier.

The 8 stud goes through the entire rack (it would be more correct to use larger diameter bolts, there would be less vibration). It was not possible to turn the drill, very high speeds, and at low speeds the milling cutter stopped. As a result, I had to tighten the stud with nuts and scroll the workpiece inside the box with my hands, constantly tightening the nuts. For good, it was necessary to make a cutter that rotates the blank 10-15 degrees.
The milling box is one of those technologies that I wanted to try. Experience gained, conclusions drawn.

One way or another, the stand was machined.

Next, I make the seat and footrest in impromptu wims. The seat and footrest will be round, with a diameter of 310 mm. Glued together from two shields with the lamellas arranged across each other, as I hope this will give the necessary strength.

With the help of a plywood milling cutter, a ring was made along which the outer edge of the seat and footrest, as well as the inner part of the seat, will be processed.

Something like this. Outside, I milled with a milling cutter with a bearing, inside blindly along the copy sleeve.

Marking the steps: put the central rack in place, outlined the contour.

In the corner I marked where to drill the vias. The pen drill played a tough joke on me - it tore the wood, I had to putty a lot.

First, I marked with a thin drill where the tip of the pen would pass, then I drilled holes of the required diameter with a pen and cut out sections with jigsaws, after which I leveled everything with sandpaper on a bar. It was necessary to make a template from plywood and mill holes, the quality of the cut would have turned out much better and would not have had to kill a lot of time to bring it to perfection with sandpaper.

The result of puttying the gaps in wood from the pen. Clay Joiner Moment D3 in this regard is much worse than D2 when processed with sandpaper, first the wood is eaten, then the glue.

Billets of legs are glued from the bars.

According to the plywood template, I give them a shape. And then a surprise, the template tears off the workpiece (weakly fastened with nails) and the cutter spoils the workpiece. Bida - pichal, the last cut of the bars went into action, only - just enough.

I glue a crosspiece into the seat, it is assembled on the grooves.

In the legs I also prepare grooves for their assembly.

After milling the edges and collecting. Seems like it worked out well. Next, there should have been a photo taken out in the header of all the prepared parts for assembly.

I sand the seat very carefully.

The fitting chair is assembled dry.

Connecting parts to each other.

Firstly, I painted all the details separately, which in the end caused trouble.
Non-water stain from "novbytkhim" (Oregon and ebony), despite cleaning the tree from dust and wiping with white alcohol, rolled into tangles during the painting process. I had to sand them several times and smear with a solvent. It turned out something like this.

Later, when applying yacht varnish, the "chief technologist" from the same Novbytkhim found out that he dissolves the stain. Well, as a cherry on the cake when gluing the parts together, so that PUR-501 does not stain the parts, close them with masking tape next to the gluing place. Uh-huh ... when removing the adhesive tape, pieces of varnish and stain remained on the adhesive tape. (Photos will not be, as he freaked out specifically). I had to re-grind and repaint some elements. In addition, when you try to tint the places with torn varnish with a stain, it turns out that it swells the varnish. Damn, it was necessary to assemble everything with glue first, and then stain and varnish.

But the result makes me happy.

The cat is not happy. Not enough room for his ass.

Well, actually the reason for choosing such colors.

My wife hinted that we probably need to change the facades of the kitchen, so that they would be wooden and in color with a chair. And so that the veins can be seen. :)
The final price of lumber is approximately 500 rubles (twenty board is 2 meters left). Two types of stain for 150 rubles (2/3 more bottles of each remained), the varnish was purchased earlier for the table, half of the can is left). I do not consider glue, I spent a little of it. Well, one emery bar with a grid of 180 for 70 rubles. Circles for the orbital, well, I probably erased a couple. And then, their fabric has ceased to cling to the hooks, the grain is still normal, they will be used manually. In general, let the budget be 1000 rubles.
Chair dimensions: height 65 cm, seat and footboard diameter 31 cm, legs at the edges 41 cm.
Well, the last word. As I said earlier. I am not a professional carpenter and not a hobbyist, you can call me a beginner amateur. I am well aware that it could have been done better. The main motive for writing a post is to suggest the option of making a "bar stool".

So, what should be considered when determining the height of a bar stool? Consider the main factors:

• Seated posture.
• Growth.

Now let's take a closer look at an example of how to make a chair from solid wood. As for wood, the most affordable material is pine and birch. They are available for free sale. When choosing, make sure that they are free of knots and other damage. This is important, because the product must ultimately be strong enough.

So, for manufacturing, you will need to prepare the following blanks:

• Circle Ø360 mm and thickness 30 mm 1 pc.
• Circle Ø260 mm and thickness 20 mm 1 pc.
• 4 things. legs 30 mm thick.
• 4 things. stiffening ribs 30 mm thick.

Item #1 will serve as the seat. As for part number 2, it will play the role of a substrate under the seat.

When the legs are cut, make sure that the wood structure is vertical, that is, the cuts are not made against the grain.

You should also cut out the stiffeners, as indicated in the schematic drawing:

To assemble this, you will need 3 types of screws:

1. 5 × 80 mm - necessary for screwing the legs to a small circle.
2. 5 × 40 mm - required to secure the main seat to the small circle.
3. 5×20 mm - for fixing stiffeners.

Below is the step by step assembly process:

To prevent cracking of blanks, pre-drill holes for them.

At the end of the work, painting is carried out.

If you like metal products, then you can make a chair out of metal without much difficulty yourself. Now we invite you to familiarize yourself with the manufacturing process with the help of photo instructions.

For work, a metal strip up to 5 mm thick is required. After completing a small sketch on cardboard, cut off the strips of the desired size.

In this article, the dimensions are deliberately not indicated, since in this case everyone can make the seat of the chair at their discretion.

The strips are securely welded together. Pay attention to the quality of welding. Although everything will be sanded later, it is important to apply a neat weld. From this, the appearance of the chair will only benefit.

Also, at your discretion, mark out the crossbars inside the seat frame in a chaotic arrangement. Here it is important to ensure that there are no too large openings.

Just like the seat frame, scald all the cross members. After that, clean each welding seam from slag with a grinder with a peeling wheel installed on it, not forgetting to put on goggles.

To prevent injury, smooth out any sharp corners of the workpiece.

Next, you make legs from pipes. They must have the same size, which can be determined from the table at the beginning of this article. All four blanks are welded to the already made seat. To strengthen the structure, weld the crossbars. They will additionally serve to support the legs. Do not rush to weld capitally. First on potholders to try on and adjust everything.

If everything converges, then you can carefully weld the parts. As a result, in a raw version, the bar stool will look like this:

If left as is, the feet will scratch the floor, break tiles and, worst of all, make a nasty sound as they move. Therefore, wooden wedges can be hammered into the lower part of the legs, as shown in the picture below. So, you can increase the stability of the entire structure.

A kind of wooden "plugs" are not attached in any way. They will be held by friction and pressure. Be sure to trim the piece of wood so that it is flush with the leg.

When the frame of the bar stool is ready, it can be painted. Pre-sand all welds and make sure that there are no sharp protrusions. Apply primer.

You can paint the legs and seat in any color you like.

If you have your own ideas for making such furniture, then be sure to write about it in the comments to this article. In the end, we invite you to consider drawings and photos of finished bar stools. Perhaps you will find many interesting ideas for yourself.

Video

A photo

Drawings and diagrams

This subsection will help you understand the design features and detailing of bar stools:

If you decide to equip the dining room or kitchen with a bar counter, then it will take on a complete look only after you equip it with chairs. When choosing such pieces of furniture, it is necessary to take into account compliance with the design and style of the room. You can, of course, purchase such an addition in the store, but the cost can be impressive, and the design features may not be suitable for a particular interior.

Preparation of tools and materials

If you decide to make bar materials, then you can purchase materials at a hardware store. Cutting is recommended to be ordered in a carpentry workshop. In order to determine the most comfortable dimensions of the products, you should measure the distance from the floor surface to the bottom of the countertop. The gap between the surface of the table and the seat should be from 30 to 35 cm. For work, you will need a screwdriver and a jigsaw, as well as a planer, tape measure, hammer and carpenter's corner. Take care of the presence of self-tapping screws and sandpaper. The products will be based on a bar of square section with a side of 50 millimeters. You will also need an array from which the drawers are to be made. The thickness of the latter should be equivalent to 25-30 millimeters.

When choosing wood, you should pay attention to pine, birch or beech. The optimal diameter of the array for the manufacture of the chair will be 360 ​​millimeters. In order for the products to take on a finished look, they can be varnished or stained. To carry out the work you will need brushes, stain and solvent.

Manufacturing technology

If bar stools are made by hand, then using a jigsaw from an array, a circle should be prepared, the diameter of which should be equal to 360 mm. This element will act as the top of the bar stool. The workpiece must be processed with a grinder, and along the edge, get rid of the chamfer. A circle of a less impressive diameter, which will be 260 millimeters, should be prepared for attaching the legs. If bar stools are made with their own hands, then the seat can be square, in which case the tsarga will be used. An alternative solution will be a technology that involves splicing several boards with a width of 120 millimeters or more. After the blanks are glued, it is necessary to join and fix everything with clamps, leaving it in this state until it dries. If bar stools are made by hand, then furniture glue can be used for gluing.

Features of the work

After the height of the bar stool has been selected, and you have completed all of the above work, you can proceed to the manufacture of the legs. For this, a square bar with a side of 50 millimeters is used. At this stage, the element should be planed with a slight slope with the help of it along the entire length. It is necessary to achieve such an effect that the section of the legs in the lower part is 2.5x2.5 cm. As for the upper part, which will be fixed to the seat, it should be as thick as possible. The product will require four legs, they are additionally fixed to the structure and act as a support bar for the legs of the seated person. If you will be making a white bar stool, then in the process of work you can use the technology described in the article, and at the final stage prepare the paint of the appropriate shade. The next step will be the manipulation with a square beam with a side of 2.5 cm. This element should be planed, and then sawed in the end parts of the spike. Stepping back from the floor about 30 cm, it is necessary to hollow out a nest in the legs, which is necessary for the spike. The prolegs prepared in advance must be installed in the nests using glue. The whole structure is reinforced with twine.

Carrying out the assembly of the chair

When making a high one, the next step is to assemble it, excluding the occurrence of gaps and cracks. After all the details have been fitted according to the original, they should be assembled dry, and only after you are convinced that the design is ideal, you can use glue to carry out such work. Today, even folding bar stools can be found on sale, but it should be noted that they are able to take on less significant weight. Sharp corners of the spikes must be rounded off. To mount the legs in the mounting surface, you need to drill two holes for dowels, the diameter of which can be equal to 8 millimeters. The mounting plate is put on the dowels as tightly as possible. The legs can be strengthened additionally with the help of those mounted on screws.

Final works

If you decide to make folding bar stools on your own, then the legs should be fixed not by a rigid fastening method, but with the help of special furniture canopies. However, in this case, it is necessary to provide an emphasis installed at the base of the seat. This will prevent folding of the structure during operation. Do not fasten everything only mechanically or with glue. A front seat should be installed on top of the mounting board. It must be fixed with screws installed from the back. The height of the bar stool will depend only on your preferences and the dimensions of the available table.

Bar stools have become an indispensable attribute of the arrangement of the kitchen space.

Loft-style apartments are now in fashion, where kitchens are combined with living quarters, all unnecessary partitions have been dismantled. The bar counters are the "frontier", denoting the living area, and the place to eat in the kitchen. Not surprisingly, such attributes have become a sought-after piece of furniture.

People who love DIY can make such a simple item on their own, especially since technically it is easy to implement.

What tools are needed?

It requires a standard set of tools, materials and a properly drawn up drawing. Such a homemade chair is a product with high legs about 80 cm high, at the bottom there is a special footrest. High supports are very comfortable, in the process of sitting the legs do not become numb and do not get tired.

The height may vary depending on the dimensions of the bar in the kitchen. A person should feel free and not be afraid to lose the center of gravity, despite the fact that the chair is above standard sizes.

Making a plywood model

Wood is a plastic material that can be easily processed. You will need tools:

1. Bulgarian with a disc type - "saw";
2. Grinder machine;
3. Roulette;
4. Drill and screws;
5. Glue.
6. Chisel;
7. Screwdriver.

Execution of work

At the very beginning of work, elements of future wooden legs are cut out of wood. Marking in the form of the letter A is applied to the tree, decorative roundings are made at the intersection points.

The elements of the legs are cut with a jigsaw according to the lined markings. Thus, a block is obtained - the future support for the legs. This is an important connecting element: there will be few fasteners, so the leg support must securely fasten the supports, which must withstand decent loads.

The chair should be strong and not “hanging out” at the attachment points of the knots. All places of cuts are processed by a grinding machine.

After the details of the legs are made, it's time to assemble the supports. Four blocks of legs are carefully coated with glue and mounted close to each other in an overlay. After the glue has hardened, for greater strength, self-tapping screws should be wrapped in the attachment points.

The footrest is cut out of plywood. If the thickness of the material is insufficient, then the cut pieces of plywood can be glued and joined.

The seat is made using the same technology. The sawn pieces are connected, which are well pre-glued. You can make several layers of plywood, taking into account possible large loads.

A special substrate is made for the seat, it must be strong enough, because the legs will be attached to it.

Fastening takes place with self-tapping screws. When everything is dry and assembled, the stage of paint and varnish work will come.

Solid wood product

The best option is to make a bar stool from a solid array:

1. Birch;
2. Oak;
3. Pine.

The birch array is preferable, the pine is not always stained evenly.

When making a chair from a solid array, you need to consider - the thickness of the material must be at least two centimeters.

A circle with a diameter of 370 mm is cut out - this will be the future seat. If the house does not have special woodworking equipment, then a profile is outlined along the contour, cut out, and the surface is processed with a grinder.

Then a circle with a size of less than 250 mm is made - this is a part that will be a footrest. All elements are also cut from solid wood, and wood fibers should go along.

Then they are connected with glue, the back is fastened with self-tapping screws. Such fastening is enough for the structure to be rigid and durable. After grinding is completed, the resulting object should be carefully painted over, covered with several layers of varnish.

A chair made from solid wood is heavier, but also more durable. It is easy to style it antique, then it will look very original. In this style, you can make more than one product. Such a thing will serve for a long time, it is not afraid of changes in either humidity or temperature.

Technological flaws in wood

Wooden furniture is in constant demand, but it also has its drawbacks:

1. Susceptibility to moisture is the most dangerous factor that exposes wood to deterioration;
2. The anisotropy of the structure affects the different characteristics of wood fibers located along and across;
3. Timber is combustible and susceptible to fungal diseases.

If wooden objects are left outdoors for a long time, for example, on the veranda of a private household, then it is likely that they will deteriorate, especially for products in which plywood is present.

Metal fabrication, first option

Metal is durable, and products made from it are no less elegant than those made from wood. Making bar stools out of metal is not a big deal. Appropriate materials and elementary skills in welding are needed.

Preparation for work is that, first of all, the appropriate tools are selected. First of all, you need a pipe bender, you can create it yourself. On the layout, the bars should be fixed and between them leave a space equal to the diameter of the pipe. Two beams must be at least 5 cm thick.

The pipes are filled with sand, inserted between the bars, and then the operation begins to give them the desired shape.

Required Tools

You will need:

1. Drill and drills;
2. bushings;
3. Screws with nuts and bolts;
4. self-tapping screws;
5. Facing;
6. Measuring tools and pencil;
7. Paints and primers.

Start of creation

Before you start working, you should draw diagrams in order to first imagine what the object on high legs will be like. Samples can be found on the Internet, where there is a huge variety of models; it is also easy to find a description, and even diagrams and drawings there. After the model is selected, it will become clear what the dimensions will be, the creation of a product in three-dimensional space begins:

1. First of all, a stencil is made on a scale of 1: 1, it will become the standard for future manufactured blanks;
2. Two pieces of a profile pipe up to two meters long are cut off (this will be the future frame);
3. The crossbeams will also be from the pipe, so segments in the amount of two pieces 0.5 meters long will be required;
4. The rear legs will also be 0.53 m;
5. All material is cleaned with sandpaper;
6. Pipes are bent in accordance with a given pattern.

Mounting parts

Holes are drilled at the mounting points. The parts are then assembled together and iron cylinders are inserted into the holes. After that, a blank of fabric is taken, and two pieces are cut out of it in accordance with the template, which will be the seat and back.

They are stitched with a double seam and put on a finished frame. Legs are attached to the back with screws.

For fastenings, you can use self-tapping screws measuring 5x80 mm for the legs. The seat is screwed to the small circle using self-tapping screws 5x40 mm. Installation of stiffeners can be done with self-tapping screws 5x20 mm.

The ribs are installed on the legs with the help of corners. The item is ready.

Increasingly, there are metal stools, the back and armrests of which can be strong iron or copper tubes.

If there is a bar counter in the house, then the chairs for it will be very out of place. Do-it-yourself products can last a very long time, they are not afraid of either high humidity or large mechanical overloads.

Second option

If you have an idea to create chairs yourself, then it is recommended to analyze several algorithms for making these simple items. The second option may be preferable, especially for those who know how to use a welding machine.

To get started, prepare the tool:

• Reiki about 20 cm wide;
• Metallic profile;
• Scissors;
• Welding machine;
• Sander;
• Sandpaper;
• Ruler;
• Square;
• Marker;
• Roulette.

In a short time it is easy to create an original product that can "work" for many years.

Mounting

Stencils are made in compliance with the intended dimensions. The slats are cut off - these will all be blanks for the seats. The strips are welded, as a result, the desired shape will appear. Reiki are cut into even smaller strips, they should fit inside.

A stencil is made from plywood, which will serve as a guide. Thin strips are welded in such a way that a shape appears.

It is necessary to grind the workpiece, round off the corners. For the manufacture of legs, a section profile of 3 cm is used. A part of the required size is cut out of it. The height of the model may be different, depending on the height of the bar. Usually the seat is 35 cm below the level of the tabletop.

The parts made are welded to the frame, then the design will be stable. When everything is set correctly and checked several times, then you can “tack” by welding. The footrest is usually located forty centimeters from the seat, the crossbars are cut out and welded. Joints are polished.

Finishing

Metal is a hard material, the ends of the legs must be insulated with rubber or wooden nozzles. After the product is made, the finishing period begins: the finished item is primed and painted.

It makes sense to put several layers of primer and paint, which will guarantee long-term successful operation of the item.

How to make bar stools with your own hands, see the following video.