Anam connection diagram. Manual for switches with remote control

(ARS 1324, ARS 1325, ARS 1329, ARD 3701)

A remote control switch (hereinafter referred to as a switch) manufactured by ANAM (South Korea) is designed to control lighting in residential premises and offices both manually and using a remote control.

* ARD 3701 consists of a remote switch (200 W) and a discrete seven-stage dimmer (500 W)

** Off timer in ARS 1324, 1325 models can only be switched on from the remote control.

The delivery set of the remote control includes:

Remote control switch - 1 pc.Remote control - 1 pc.Batteries for the AAA remote control - 2 pcs.Models ARS 1324-2 and ARS 1325-2 can be additionally equipped with an interface device for connecting fluorescent lamps withelectronic control gear.

FUNCTIONS

Timerallows to disconnect loads after a specified time interval (30, 60 and 90 minutes). Installation is in progressby successive pressing of the Timer key: at the first press - 30 min., at the second - 60, at the third - 90, while eachpressing is accompanied by a sound signal. The fourth press (or pressing any other key) disables the timer.

Simulator presence allows you to automatically turn on and off the light at regular intervals. When you click onThe Crime Prevention key sounds a beep and the LED flashes. To turn off the mode, press any other key.

Adjustmentillumination produced by three keys. By pressing the "Dimmer" key, the load is switched on. Adjustmentproduced by the ∆ and ∇ keys for 7 levels of illumination, when switched off, the last position is memorized. Shutdownis done by pressing the "Dimmer" key again. The next time it is switched on, the memorized value is set.

MANAGEMENT ON INSTALLATION

ATTENTION!

Switch with DU is an complicated technical device, so them mounting and connection should conduct skilled specialist, having license and tolerance To work with power grids.

1. The switch is connected according to the attached diagrams. Install and dismantle the circuit breaker only whenpower failure, remember that the circuit breaker may be damaged if connected incorrectly!

2. Connection wires... It is allowed to use only copper single-core wire with a cross section of 1.5-2.5 sq. mm. Using wiresother cross-sections, as well as aluminum and stranded wires are not allowed.- clean the insulation at a distance of 12 mm. The cleaned part must be flat, without bends.- Insert the wire into the socket until you feel it stop.

3. Disconnection wires. Drown the mounting button next to the socket with a screwdriver. Turning slightly, remove the wire fromnests. Important: not attach large efforts when the button is pressed. This can lead to destruction of the terminal.

Rules exploitation

1. Do not connect to a load break switch exceeding the maximum permissible.

2. The switch is designed to operate in an alternating current network of 220 V, 50-60 Hz. If the network settings are unstable, it is recommended to usevoltage stabilizer. The use of the switch in electrical networks with other parameters is not allowed.

3. The switch is designed to work with an active load (incandescent lamps, fluorescent lamps with electronic ballasts).The use of reactive loads is unacceptable.

5.Do not install the switch in places where it can be exposed to direct sunlight, or near heatingdevices.

6. The ambient air temperature should be in the range from 0 to + 40 ° С, and its average daily value should not exceed + 35 ° С,relative humidity no more than 90%.

7. The environment should not contain explosive, corrosive gases, vapors and aerosols.

8.Do not install the switch where it can be exposed to strong electromagnetic fields.

9.If it is necessary to delete the set brightness values, press the "Reset" button located at the bottom of the front panel.

10.Only for ARS 1325-2: if LOAD 1 fails, the breaker stops working. In this case, it is necessary to replaceburned out lamp. If only one channel is supposed to be used, connect it as LOAD

1. Storage conditions

Switches should be stored in a closed, dry, protected from moisture place at temperatures from -25 to + 50 ° С and relativeair humidity no more than 90%.

The first thing that immediately catches your eye before installation is their unusual rectangular shape. It is because of this that most home craftsmen do not risk getting involved with them, and completely in vain. Let me explain why ...

In addition to excellent technical characteristics, attractive prices, reliability, and subjective assessment, there is one factor that, perhaps, can be decisive - these outlets NEVER fall out of the walls. No matter how harshly and inaccurately the user pulls out the plug, this will not affect the ANAM outlet. Why such an amazing result? Everything is very simple - through the use of special junction boxes.

What is the difference between these ANAM mounting boxes from the rest? In fact, only the form. Where not universal mounting boxes are used, but adapted to their own brand, there is always a high reliability of the entire structure, even if it is not ANAM. However, do not forget that even the most highly reliable design will be so if it is installed correctly.

DIY installation of ANAM sockets step by step

The first step is to make the markup. Unlike single outlets, group outlets can be difficult to install evenly. Anam outlets are no exception. Be sure to mark out using a level before installing. Since the recess in the wall is rectangular, it is almost impossible to eliminate installation errors.

We begin to make a recess in the wall. The most difficult and crucial stage. If, to install ordinary sockets with our own hands, making a round hole, we could use a drill, spatula or a special cutter of the appropriate diameter, then for Anamov products, the hole in the wall will be rectangular or square. With this technique of grooving, the edges of the groove are uneven. In any case, patience will be required to achieve an acceptable result.

As an alternative technology, we suggest using an angle grinder equipped with a diamond disc for working on concrete. Cutting a square hole in the wall with this tool is much faster and easier. The edges of such recesses are perfectly shaped. They do not crumble and look much more beautiful.

But nothing in the world is perfect. This technology has two drawbacks. Making a square hole, it is impossible to achieve the same depth without crossing the perpendicular lines. To achieve the specified depth in the corners, you need to use an additional tool. Either use a chisel or clean out hard-to-reach areas.

The second disadvantage of using an angle grinder is a lot of noise and a lot of dust. Moreover, there will be so much dust that it will take months to get rid of it throughout the apartment. If you need to install only one outlet, then it will be more practical to give preference to slow tactics, arm yourself with a time-tested puncher or chisel. In our case, we, in which there is still no decoration, no furniture, no tenants - so we can easily use an angle grinder when installing outlets with our own hands.

How deep is the Anam junction box installed?

A strange question at first glance. Of course, to the depth of the mounting box. But the latter has a mark, hence the confusion. To further exacerbate the problem, the fact that boxes from different manufacturers are commercially available with different sizes of these marks.

It seems to be only 2-3 mm of difference, but this difference may require adjustment, which often has to be done in the most inconvenient conditions. So it turns out that it is impossible to name the exact depth. The main thing is to adhere to one rule: the edge from the mounting box should protrude outward by no more than 5 mm.

Fixing the back box to the wall. The next step is to install the Anam back box into the hole and apply it with plaster. Some masters suggest using polyurethane foam to fix the mounting boxes. There is an opinion that this is not the most fire-safe method, however, there are no complaints about the quality and reliability. There is one limitation - polyurethane foam expands the box. It is required to provide spacers to maintain the shape of the back box.

If you do not hope for the quality of the plastering or are afraid not to cope with the polyurethane foam, we offer the method used by the vast majority of craftsmen. It is necessary to fix the junction box on self-tapping screws, dowel-nails, that is, in any mechanical way, if possible. And after that, cover the hole around the box with plaster or other available dry mixes. After such fasteners, the fire safety standards are met, and the required reliability is achieved.

Installing the mechanism in the box... Before installing in the box, we connect the wires to the holes specially designed for this. Anam sockets use special clips for this. The wire is stripped of insulation by 10-12 mm and simply inserted. In such a design, regardless of the qualifications of the installer, we have a reliable and safe electrical contact. The only condition is that the conductor must be solid, flat, without bends.

Undocumented features... It will be about copies of sockets combined with TV sockets. As you know, coaxial cable has a limitation on the minimum allowable bending radius. When we laid the power wires and tackled the high-frequency TV cable, the mechanism did not fit into the back box. Of course, using force, it could be laid, however, bending the central core of the television cable could, by damaging the insulation, come into contact with the screen. This would lead, in addition to damage to the cable, to very strong distortion of the television signal.

There are two ways to solve the problem. The first way is to provide a place in the junction box for laying the HF cable. Trim the back wall and make an additional recess in the wall. Naturally, it is better to take care of this in advance. The second solution to the problem is to abandon the attenuator. You need to install instead. True, it is likely that when the TV receiver is disconnected from this outlet, the signal to the remaining TVs will be distorted. It depends on the switchgear and you may not find it. This can only be understood empirically. If you will not use the outlet for some time, and are faced with such a problem, then it is necessary to muffle the output of the switchgear going to this outlet with an attenuator. If the switchgear is not available, then you just need to replace the attenuator by screwing it instead of the TV to the TV outlet.

The final stage of installing an outlet with your own hands- installation of the front panel. It is installed with latches. In the Zunis line, the installation depth of the frame is adjustable, due to this it is possible to correct some of the roughness of the installation.

In general, the installation of Anam sockets is not too different from the installation of other modern ones. The only feature is the rectangularity of the products, which requires a special approach. For minor hassle and accuracy when working with Anam, you get wonderful sockets and switches. The main thing is that they serve reliably and regularly, delighting day after day for many years with their unusual appearance and ease of use.

The topic of wiring accessories for our magazine and for its regular readers is not new. About a year ago, we devoted a whole series of articles to this topic. Three of them were written in collaboration with the ABB concern. The articles featured both Legrand and several other "cool" international concerns. They were talking about, let's not be afraid of this word, excellent wiring equipment, which has only one drawback - high cost.

Probably the high level of prices explains the not too great reaction of readers to these publications. Today we decided to return to this topic and talk about the electrical installation equipment of the South Korean company "ANAM", which is still little known on the Russian market. Why we decided to talk about this particular equipment, you will understand for yourself as soon as you see the price level for it. We will warn you in advance that the firm "ANAM" does not produce wiring equipment with intelligence and other "bells and whistles", or with design excesses. Today we will talk about "ordinary" wiring equipment, with the help of which it is possible to solve most of the technical problems and create quite comfortable conditions in the house, but without "frills". Let everyone judge for himself about the design of this equipment, because, as you know, taste and color….

We asked the specialists of the ANAM-ELECTROMATERIALY firm, which is the official representative of the ANAM firm in Russia, to help us understand today's topic of conversation. And today we are talking with the representative of the company "ANAM-ELECTROMATERIALS" Alexander Vladimirovich Ivanov.

A few words about the Anam company itself. This is a fairly large South Korean company. It is a leading manufacturer of wiring equipment.

This equipment has a standard common for Korea and in general for Asia, somewhat different from the European one we are accustomed to. With a common standard, products manufactured by Asian manufacturers differ from each other primarily in design. When our company carried out marketing research and chose which of the South Korean companies to start cooperation with, we were attracted primarily by the design of the products of the company "Anam". The Anam corporation itself, in addition to wiring products, also produces more serious things: televisions, household appliances, video intercoms, etc. But all these products are absolutely unknown to the Russian buyer. Perhaps this is due to some inability of the same video on-door speakerphones produced by "Anam" to our market. For us, after all, an indispensable condition is that the video intercom is "vandal-proof", otherwise it will be broken on the very first day. And "Anam" does not produce such products.

The main stream of buyers is interested in purchasing the most common household items - sockets and switches. There is always a demand for these things and it is constantly increasing. As our experience shows, there is a gradual but steady growth of buyers' interest in these products. The explanation for the increase in interest is very simple - this product is of sufficient quality, has a good design, and has prices that are quite acceptable for the Russian consumer. The price-quality ratio in Anam products is very advantageous.

Mounting boxes are made of heavy-duty heat-resistant plastic. Landing size - 83.5 mm. The peculiarity of Anam products is, first of all, their rectangular shape. Not only the wiring products themselves have this form, but also the mounting boxes for them. This is what first of all distinguishes Anam products from European and Russian standard products designed for a round mounting box. This rectangular standard is adopted in Asia, the USA and Italy. This difference first of all explains why the wiring products of these countries in Russia are either not sold at all, or sold little. Now, when many have already become acquainted with this standard and with the wiring products themselves, problems no longer arise. The buyer pays attention to the appearance and functionality, and the form no longer scares him.

And if you are installing wiring accessories in a new house or in a new apartment, then what difference does it make which boxes to mount round or square, because the difference in labor costs is insignificant. Those who make major major repairs or build a new house are not at all scared. We try to minimize the cost of the mounting box - they are produced not in South Korea, but in Russia, therefore they are cheaper. Cutting a rectangular recess in the wall for the installation of a back box is certainly not easy. In order to alleviate this problem, an adapted mounting box has been created (see photo), the recess for the installation of which is cut with the same cutter as for the installation of a round European standard box.

Functionally, Anam products are no different from those of leading European manufacturers. According to statistics, products from Germany (Elso firm), Hungary (Prodax firm), Sweden (Elio firm) are in the greatest demand among Russian buyers. The products of these companies belong to the so-called "middle class" and are designed primarily for the mass consumer. Products of such companies as Legrand, Givis, Bush Yeger are more "sophisticated" in design. But these are more expensive products that are not designed for mass demand. So, “Anam” products in their “middle class” are quite competitive, and in terms of quality, perhaps, they even exceed the average level. In terms of design, they simply win, precisely because of their unusual and unusual rectangular shape for us.

The second feature of Anam products is that they are all designed to operate in a network with a voltage of 250 V at an operating current of up to 15 A. That is, any of the switches is designed for a load of 3.7 kW. This is more than a decent load. (Recall that the domestic standard provides for a voltage of 220 V and a maximum current of 6 A.) All of them are made of plastic ceramics - this is a material that is absolutely not subject to fading at high temperatures, and are produced in one color - ivory. When we were engaged in the certification of Anam products at Rostest, we watched with horror how tough the wiring products were subjected to tests there. And these tests of the product "Anam" passed with honor and received a certificate from "Rostest".

The switches have a backlight in the form of an LED indicating the position of the switch in the dark. The switches are equipped with a red LED. The use of double pads allows you to maximize the range of products. Various switch combinations are possible. The fact that the switches are illuminated is one of the advantages of the Anam switches. It is quite easy to find such a switch in the dark. The series includes one-, two-, three-, four- and five-button switches. For those who for some reason do not like the lighting on the switches, there are cheaper products without LED lighting. Such switches are 10-15% cheaper, but functionally they are no different.

The sockets are made according to the European standard for the inclusion of electrical plugs with a diameter of up to 5 mm. Some outlet models are equipped with a grounding contact. Sockets with splash-proof covers and rubber gaskets are intended for installation in rooms where there is a possibility of splashing on the outlet. The series also includes types of sockets with special protection against children. These sockets are equipped with special shutters, with a rotary valve, which the electric plug moves apart easily and freely, but the child is unlikely to be able to stick a nail or finger into one of the holes.

In addition to conventional sockets and switches, there are also products called switches. These products are now in rather high demand among Russian consumers. What are they needed for? Switches are products that allow you to turn on and off the lighting from two places (equipped with a green backlight). Imagine a long corridor with switches at both ends. We entered from one end - the light was turned on. We went through the entire corridor - turned off the second switch. Agree that this is much more convenient than one switch for such a corridor.

The series includes products that combine two functions at once - a switch and a switch. A significant part of the assortment is occupied by various devices, ranging from the already familiar dimmers and ending with electronic timers. The electrical circuit of the dimmers allows you to smoothly change the illumination of the room. Individual models of dimmers are produced in combination with a switch and are illuminated. The maximum load power of the dimmer is 1000 W.

These products are indispensable for staircases, corridors, etc. places, and are an alternative to switches. With the help of two switches, as we have already said, you can turn on and off the lighting on both sides of the corridor (stairs). The timer can replace both switches. We entered the corridor and turned on the light with a timer. We walked along the corridor (climbed the stairs) and go boldly about your business, not thinking about turning off the lights. The timer circuitry allows you to turn off the light automatically with a delay of 1.5 or 2.5 minutes after forced switching on. The maximum load power of the timer is 200 W.

Remote light control systems allow you to create maximum comfort and convenience. In the simplest case, remote control of light can be organized according to the "on-off" principle. In a more complex case, it is possible to control the light with remote dimming. In fact, this is the same dimmer, but controlled not manually, but from the remote control.

The switches with remote control (RC) offered by Anam will allow you to control the lighting both with the help of touch keys and with the remote control at a distance of up to 10 m, turn on and off the light and smoothly change the illumination of the room. Some models of switches are equipped with the function of automatically turning off the light after 30, 60, 90 minutes and, for safety reasons, the function of simulating the presence - programmed switching on and off the light in the absence of a person. All device functions are accompanied by a sound signal. The maximum load power of one key is 200 W, the dimmer is 500 W. Switches with remote control require a separate 220 V power cable.

The 6-line dimmer equipped with an infrared remote control offers you a range of unique functions. First of all, it enables the user to memorize the brightness of several light sources. To create comfort in your home, lamps and other lighting devices can be pre-adjusted to desired brightness levels, which can be subsequently set with just one button press. For example, you can create a special light atmosphere above your dining table and adjust the lighting in the hallway accordingly - all at the same time and with the press of just one button. This system also makes it easy to control light in classrooms and conference rooms, in bars, halls and foyers, wherever multiple light sources need to be individually controlled at the same time.

Anam also offers such interesting devices as motion detectors. These sensors turn on the lighting as soon as you appear in its coverage area. Motion detectors are available for indoor installation only. The proposed sensors are passive IR sensors and are not used as a burglar alarm, but they may well provide a comfortable environment for their owners. The main purpose of the internal sensor in the apartment is to automatically turn on and off the light, for example, in the corridor (hallway). As soon as you entered the apartment, the sensor will instantly turn on the lighting, saving you from looking for the switch. A sensor installed on the stairs will eliminate the need to burn light on it around the clock - the light will turn on as soon as a person appears on the stairs. The proposed switches with a motion sensor provide a temporary (up to 3 minutes) light switch on when a person appears in the sensor's area of operation.

Ceiling and wall-mounted models are available as switches with different sensor ranges. There are options with a viewing angle of 90 °, which are triggered by a person approaching this particular door and ignore those approaching the neighboring one. Sensors with a 270 ° field of view not only have a detection area in front of them, but also a small detection area behind them. This means that the sensor installed above the entrance door will not be triggered when you have already passed under it, but as soon as you open the door. The detection area of a wall-mounted sensor with a 180 ° viewing angle is located horizontally - the beam is parallel to the floor (usually at a height of 1-1.1 m). This is necessary so that the sensor is triggered when a person appears at either end of a long corridor, but does not trigger when pets appear. If there are small children in the house, then the sensor can be installed at a lower height.

This series offers a luminaire with a built-in motion sensor. In it, using an electronic unit, you can set the level of external illumination. This is necessary so that the motion sensor turns on and off the light only at night. Here you can adjust the lighting off delay time and the light intensity. (In our opinion, this is an excellent ready-made "unit" for those who love comfort, but are not very strong in electrics and will not be able to mount the corresponding control circuit for the corridor lamp themselves. In addition, the ready-made "unit" costs much less than the circuit assembled by them separate components. - V.K.)

TV sockets. The electrical circuit of the TV sockets allows you to simultaneously connect TVs and stereo radio receivers to the central antenna. There are three models of television sockets: terminal, checkpoint, crab, which allows you to create various television networks. Characteristic impedance 75 Ohm (TV) and 300 Ohm (FM). The scope of delivery includes an adapted TV plug.

Telephone sockets
(6-pin) with shutters that protect the contact part from dust when disconnected. Audio sockets are designed to connect a variety of music and speaker systems. Before moving on to the last point of today's review - switchboards offered by Anam, it is worth talking about the safety of power supply.

The issue of safe power supply in a building is divided into two sub-issues: the protection of people operating electrical installations, and the protection of the electrical installations themselves. Protection of electrical installations - performed by automatic machines that protect electrical devices from short-circuit currents (everyone is familiar with Russian automatic machines of the AE and AP types). The protection of people operating electrical installations is a matter of protection against an earth fault (housing) in case of insulation breakdown (washing machines, refrigerators, electric stoves, etc.). Touching such a device, a person receives an electric shock, the consequences of which are poorly unpredictable.

One of the ways to protect people from electric shock when shorting to the case is differential automatic machines (as they are called in the west) or residual current devices - RCDs (as they are called in Russia). RCD is a device that measures the difference between the current passing through the phase wire and the current "returning" through the neutral wire, more precisely measuring the differential current difference. If there is a difference in the measured currents, i.e. there is a leakage of current to the ground (in particular, a leakage through the body of a person who touches the body of a faulty device), then it is this leakage that the device fixes. The safe limit for humans is considered to be a current of 30 mA.

Accordingly, in residential buildings, residual current devices designed for a leakage current of 30 mA are used. The response time (a few milliseconds) is calculated in such a way that the person does not even have time to really understand what "shook him". The protection against contact voltage and the risk of electric shock provided by an RCD is a fundamental element in any normal application and is extremely important in special cases where the risk can be particularly high (bathrooms, etc.). Protective devices of the RCD type, installed in the distribution cabinet of the apartment and used in conjunction with the automatic machine from overload and short circuit, successfully protect the entire apartment or house. It is these kind of switchboards that Anam offers.

Distribution boards for 4, 6, 10 lines. The kit includes: residual current device (RCD), protective two-pole circuit breakers. Rated current for machines: 15, 20, 30 A, for RCDs: 30, 50 A, leakage current 30 mA. In addition to the 70 WIDE series of wiring equipment, which we talked about in some detail, the SUPER WIDE series is offered. Wiring equipment of this series is distinguished by more rectangular shapes and the presence of a metallized silver cover on the switch keys. Functionally, it does not differ in any way from the equipment of the 70 WIDE series. The color is ivory. For those who, for some reason, are forced to use not internal, but external wiring, a series of appropriate wiring equipment is offered.

Information provided by the firm "ANAM - ELECTROMATERIALY"

Vadim Kovalev

It would seem a trivial question - how to connect a switch to control lighting devices. However, for many novice home craftsmen who are setting up their residential estates for the first time and striving to do everything on their own to the maximum, this operation can cause complications. Moreover, various variations of connection schemes are possible, from the simplest to very complex.

The variety of switches on sale is extremely large. But basically, these differences relate to the external design of the devices and the "mechanics" of switching. And so in all the series produced by the leading manufacturers, the approximate similarity of the "sets" of models according to the principle of switching contacts is still observed. In this article, we will see - where, when and how switches of various types are connected.

Variety of switch models

What is a switch and where is it installed

A switch is an electrical switching device designed to control the closing and opening of the power supply circuit going to the luminaires. Some household appliances, for example, a permanently installed fan, can also be connected through it.

Let's talk about the most important rule right away!

The switch is always placed on a phase wire break. Yes, the power circuit can also be controlled through a break in the neutral conductor. And quite a few "masters" sin with this - they say, there is no difference. But this is a flagrant violation of operational safety requirements. The meaning here is simple and clear - if the switch broke the circuit, then on the device connected through it there should be no life-threatening phase voltage. That is, for example, replacing a burned-out lamp in a luminaire will not be accompanied by the likelihood of electric shock.

And do not hope that this issue is not so serious. Neglecting simple rules for electrical installation is always fraught with serious consequences.

How big is the danger of electric shock?

The answer is unequivocal - extremely great! A 220 volt household network is quite capable of inflicting severe electrical injuries, sometimes incompatible with life. If there is no understanding of this issue, then you should not undertake electrical installation work on your own. To begin with - carefully read the special publication of our portal, which details the danger of electric shock.

Varieties of switches by design

Let's leave aside the external design of these devices - here each of the manufacturers tries to attract the buyer with an original design. So there is always an opportunity to choose a set of sockets and switches made in a general style that is most suitable for the planned decoration of the room. Let us dwell on more fundamental questions.

Embedded and overhead models

In modern apartments and houses, in the overwhelming majority of cases, built-in models are used. Their use is possible only with hidden wiring. Installation of the switch is carried out in a "socket" pre-equipped in the wall, in the role of which a standard socket with a diameter of 68 mm is most often used.

It is clear that the installation of such switches requires a fairly large-scale preparatory work. Moreover, the laying of the necessary cables and wires should be thoroughly thought out in advance. But on the other hand, the hidden, well-executed wiring is safer in operation and does not interfere with any chosen wall decoration at all.

How to plan and install electrical wiring in a house or apartment

The task is of the highest priority and increased complexity. When performing these very large-scale and labor-intensive activities, it is necessary to strictly follow the established rules and technological recommendations. This is described with all the details in a special publication of our portal "Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in the house."

Surface switches are mounted on the wall surface. This greatly simplifies their installation, and they can be used with both open and hidden wiring.

Such devices are not always appropriate in the interior, as walls protruding too far beyond the surface. But where this issue is not fundamental, such switches can greatly simplify the task. They are often used in utility or utility rooms. Many of these models have a higher degree of protection of the case, and may well be installed in a street or room with high humidity.

However, there are also amateurs of the emphatically original design of living rooms, using open wiring, made in a retro style. For this, there are also whole lines of overhead electrical devices - sockets and switches.

Number of keys

This difference can be seen at once - there can be one, two, three keys, and in rare cases - even more. Obviously, such switches can be used to control several light sources or several groups of lamps on one luminaire.

A very common example is a two-key model installed in front of the entrance to the bathroom and toilet, or a three-key model if a corridor or kitchen is also added here. Another "classic" option for using a two-button switch is separate control of lamp groups of one multi-track chandelier in the living room.

Convenience is understandable - there is no need to prepare two (or more) sockets with sockets for several switches - you can often limit yourself to one.

It should be understood correctly that the number of keys does not at all predetermine unambiguously the functionality of the switch. In addition to conventional devices that work only for closing and opening a circuit, there are through and cross, which, in turn, can also have one or more keys. More on this below.

Protection class of the circuit breaker body

All electrical devices are subdivided according to the degree of protection against the ingress of solid objects (including dust) and moisture (water) on the current-carrying parts. Depending on the expected operating conditions of the circuit breaker, a suitable model should be selected according to these criteria.

The security class is indicated by the IP letter followed by a two-digit number. The first number indicates the degree of protection against solid particles and dust, and can be from 0 to 6. The second number is an indicator of protection against water ingress - from 0 to 9. The higher the number, the higher the protection.

In ordinary living rooms, where too high humidity and dustiness cannot be, it is quite possible to use IP20 class switches. Nothing prevents the installation here and more secure, but this is reflected in the cost. But for the kitchen, for example, it is worth choosing a model of the IP44 class - here there are enough vapors, and the possibility of splashing water cannot be completely ruled out.

The requirements are even higher if the switch is installed in a bathhouse, in a shower room, in an unheated damp room. It is better to use models with a class of at least IP45. Well, if the installation is supposed to be outdoors, that is, a direct hit of atmospheric precipitation is possible, then a model not lower than IP55, 56, 66 seems to be optimal - extra insurance will never hurt in these matters.

Differences by terminal type

Most switches have conventional screw terminals for wiring. The stripped end of the wire is inserted into the socket (hole), and then the screw is tightened using a screwdriver to securely hold it in the terminal. Solid wires can be tightened directly into the terminals. Stranded - first they are tinned, or, which is simpler, a terminal tip is put on and crimped on them.

Many modern models use spring-loaded terminals. There is no screw on them - after the prepared end of the wire is inserted all the way into the hole, the terminal is clamped automatically, ensuring reliable contact. Convenient and fast, although some electricians are still skeptical about the durability of such connections, preferring to work with the usual screw terminals.

Availability of light indication

A convenient feature that allows you not to fumble on the wall with your hand in the dark. The indicator lit in the off position will accurately show the location of the switch keys. The cost of such devices is not much higher than conventional ones, so such models are very popular.

Nevertheless, sometimes the owners who did not think about this issue in advance have to give up such a function. The fact is that a small current flowing through the indicator can cause flickering or dim glow of gas-discharge or LED lamps when the lighting is off. This is very seriously unnerving for many. And you have to bite out the conductor going to the indicator in order to turn it off altogether. So this should be borne in mind when choosing a switch.

By the way, the indication on some types of switches can have a completely opposite purpose. That is, the light is on when the circuit is closed. This is useful for remote placement of the lighting fixture. For example, you can immediately see if the light remains on in the basement, garage inspection pit, etc.

Differences by type of control device

This question also presents a fairly wide variety. And each of the owners chooses the option that seems more convenient to him.

Rocker switches are the most common group of switching devices. It assumes the presence of a swinging mechanism with fixation in one of two positions - upper and lower. The design of the mechanism can be different - with a ball and a rocker arm, with flat or round springs, with other details that provide a given position of the key.

Such switches are very convenient, the most familiar to most users. They also do not differ in high price. And at the same time, they are sufficiently reliable, capable of serving faithfully for decades with careful operation.

Switches with a button that locks in a recessed position have not earned much popularity, although there are fans of this approach. The durability of such devices raises some concerns - with frequent use, the button mechanism wears out rather quickly.

Pushbutton switches are also available without latching. But in this case, a relay device must also be included in the circuit, which will be responsible for closing the power circuit. Not very convenient for self-assembly.

Rotary switches once dominated without limit, and then they were replaced by keyboards, as more convenient and reliable. However, they still have their adherents, especially among lovers of retro style.

As a rule, these are surface-mounted switches, and most often from the collections of "retro electrics". By the way, the "outdated" in them is only the appearance. And the "filling" can be quite modern. So, with the external similarity of different models of this type, they can be different in functionality - have several positions, be analogs of two-key, pass-through, cross, etc.

Switches with a cord. There are also lovers of such devices. These switches come in handy when placed in traditional home resting places or near a bed in a bedroom.

It is difficult to say how appropriate the ubiquitous installation of such switches will be in the place of the usual keyboards. Nevertheless, they are represented in the assortment of almost all leading manufacturers. By the way, the presence of only one lace sometimes does not mean the limited functionality of the product. For example, some switches of this type are capable of reacting differently to the number of pulls on the cord. That is, upon closer inspection, they turn out to be analogues of models with several keys.

Touch switches. This is already a trend of modernity. A light touch of your finger is enough to switch positions.

The tactile contact with the panel is sensed by an integrated electronic circuit, which already generates a control signal for the switching device. Very convenient, no effort required. And after quickly getting used to this technique, you no longer want to go back to old models.

The disadvantage is, first of all, the rather high cost of such switches. This criterion, probably, does not allow them to move into the category of widely demanded equipment yet. But the downward trend is clearly visible, and the demand for it will grow. Presumably, their reliability will increase, since there are many complaints on the network about the not outstanding durability of some products.

Remote controlled switches. This is a further improvement of sensory models, which allows you to control light without getting up from a place.

Surely, such devices have a great future, and their popularity is constantly growing. But they have not yet reached mass demand - again, due to the high cost.

There are other types of switches - with an electromechanical or electronic dimmer (brightness control), with built-in light or motion sensors, with a timer, or even responding to voice commands. But these are already particulars, which are either used extremely rarely, or have a narrowly focused purpose.

Note again that, regardless of the mentioned types of switches, fundamentally similar circuits are used for their electrical installation. This will be the subject of further consideration.

Connection diagrams for switches of various types

Conventional one-button switch

The most common and simple scheme - a switch is responsible for controlling a specific lighting fixture.

Such a switch has only two contacts on the terminals - at the input and at the output. Therefore, there are only two possible positions - the circuit is closed or open.

The circuit using such a switch is also very simple.

Several explanations at once according to the scheme - they will concern not only her, but also subsequent ones.

1 is the power line from the distribution board. Typically, a power cable has three wires. Blue (cyan) - zero N. Green-yellow - protective earth PE. The color of the insulation of the phase conductor L can be different, but only so that it cannot be confused with zero or ground. In this diagram, the phase is shown in brown.

2 - junction (distribution) box, in which the switching of suitable cables and wires is carried out.

3 - wire connection points.

Let's make a reservation right away that such connections in the box can be performed in different ways. These are twists, followed by soldering and insulation. For non-soldered twists, special caps can be used. Various types of terminals are widely used. So, the Wago clamping terminals are very popular among electricians, which allow, if necessary, to disconnect the wires without the risk of breaking them. These terminals are often criticized. But from personal experience: for 8 years of operation in a home lighting system - not a single complaint.

However, every craftsman is free to choose a connection that meets safety requirements and his concepts of reliability and durability. The only thing, of course, is that copper-aluminum twists are completely excluded. By the way, aluminum, by the way, has no place in home wiring for a long time.

4 - one-button switch.

5 - a lighting device is conventionally shown.

6 - the body of the lighting device, if it is made of metal. In this case, a ground loop wire must be connected to it to avoid injury in case of phase breakdown to the case. As you can see, this grounding conductor does not take any part in the control and power supply circuit of the lighting fixture and, by and large, does not affect its performance. It is not used even if the luminaire body is completely made of dielectric materials. Therefore, once again emphasizing the importance of protective grounding, we will not show it in the subsequent diagrams, so as not to "overload" the image with details.

We draw your attention once again - the switch is placed only on the phase gap. The zero conductor goes straight from the mounting box to the luminaire - in the area of the switch it has nothing to do at all.

How such a connection works is shown by the diagram below.

Everything is extremely simple and straightforward. When you switch the key up, the circuit is closed. There is already a zero on the luminaire, the phase has come through the switch - the luminaire has started working. (We are talking about lighting, but it should be correctly understood that another device, for example, a stationary fan, can be connected in the same way).

Again, just for example, when studying the simplest circuit, let's look at the recommended sequence of actions for connecting the switch to the lighting fixture using hidden wiring.

Illustration Brief description of the operation to be performed

	Preparatory work was carried out. The apartment (house) already has a switchboard with automatic switches (pos. 1). Strokes (pos. 2) were cut from it for laying power cables of hidden wiring. From the mounting box (pos. 3), "responsible" for connecting the lighting device, a rod (pos. 4) is cut vertically downward to the socket (pos. 5), where the switch will be installed. In the opposite direction, towards the ceiling there is a rod (pos. 6) for laying the cable from the box to the lighting fixture.
	A cable is laid from the switchboard in the stripe to the box. If the network implies the presence of a ground loop, then the cable must be three-core. For lighting systems, VVGPng cable 3 × 1.5 mm² can be recommended. The cable must be inserted into the box with a margin of about 100 ÷ 120 mm, so that the length is sufficient for installation work.
	The L phase wire (in this example, its insulation is gray) is connected to the output of the circuit breaker responsible for a specific line of the lighting system. When using wires with a cross section of 1.5 mm², the rating of the machine should be 10 amperes.
	The blue wire of the N cable connects to the zero bus. Green-yellow, respectively, to the PE protective earth bus.
	The end of the cable stuck into the box is cut - the outer protective sheath is removed from it, the ends of the wires are stripped from insulation by 8 ÷ 10 mm. It is advisable to immediately mark the wires - stick strips of plaster on them and sign. This is especially important if distractions are made for other work (and this often happens at this stage of construction or repair), and in cases where the colors of the wire insulation have a non-standard color - and this also happens. So that the "pinout" is not forgotten, it is better to immediately mark the wires.
	A two-core VVG 2 × 1.5 cable is laid in a vertical line from the box to the socket of the future switch. There is also a margin of about 100 ÷ 120 mm in length. The cable is cut, the ends of the wires are stripped of insulation. The example shows that the wires have gray and brown insulation. In this case, it is not so important - just one L is marked, and the second - L1.
	A similar operation is carried out at the opposite end of this piece of cable, which is inserted into the socket. Since it is supposed to decorate the walls with filling the scrub channels with plaster (putty), it is better to seal the socket at this stage with construction tape so that the solution does not get into it. The installation of the switch is usually carried out after finishing.
	From the junction box, along the upward strobe, and then along the cable channel in the ceiling, wiring is laid, going to the installation site of the lighting fixture. Again, it can be a VVG 3 × 1.5 cable if grounding is supposed to be switched.
	A lighting fixture is attached to the selected place. The laid cable must be wound into its case. True, many devices (the same chandeliers) also assume an open location of the switching unit, which is then covered with a decorative cap. But it is not difficult to deal with this locally, and the principle of commutation does not change from such differences.
	The supplied cable is cut, the wires are stripped of insulation, marked.
	The stripped ends of the cable wires are connected to the luminaire terminals. For grounding, a terminal is usually provided, located directly on the instrument case. The blue N wire is connected to the terminal block, focusing on the color of the lamp wire that matches it, or guided by the affixed icon. Well, then the L1 phase wire is connected - to the remaining terminal or, again, in accordance with the marking of the contacts.
	The opposite end of this cable, inserted into the installation box, is cut, the wires are stripped, marked.
	Now you need to carefully separate the wires in the box into groups. This is not difficult to do if the marking was carried out. In this case, four pairs are obtained. The first (here - from left to right): the L phase wire of the power cable and the L wire going from the box to the switch. Second: two blue neutral wires N - the power cable and going to the luminaire. The third is similar to the second, but only with green-yellow PE wires. The fourth is the L1 wires from the switch and from the lighting fixture.
	Now you need to connect these pairs. As mentioned above, this can be done using twists. But this example shows the use of the Wago clamping terminals. You will need four terminals for two contacts.
	The commutation is done.
	The box can be closed immediately with a cap.
	If the home wiring system does not have a ground loop, or if the fixture is made of dielectric materials and does not require grounding, the task is simplified. In this case, a two-core cable is laid from the box to the luminaire.
	And in the box there are only three connecting nodes, that is, three terminals are enough for switching.
	After the complete completion of the work on laying home wiring, the room is finished.
	Now you can finally install the switch in place. Wires are connected to the terminals - one at the input, the second at the output. There is a fundamental difference in this case, where will be L, and where L1 will not. But with more complex schemes, which will be discussed later, this can make a difference.
	That's all, after attaching it to the socket, the switch can be closed with a decorative cover, the button can be put in place.
	After that, it remains to screw the lamps into the lamp, finally assemble it by installing the shade. Well, then - power the line on the machine in the switch cabinet and evaluate the system's performance by checking the switching on and off of the light. Everything should work flawlessly.

The reader has probably noticed that nothing is said about installing the switch itself in the socket. The fact is that the designs of the models differ in a wide variety. And how, in what sequence, to disassemble the device, how to tighten the terminal connections - you can't count all the cases. And the very fixing of the switch in the socket box is practically no different from the installation (not to be confused with electrical installation!) Of a socket or other built-in device. And this has already been described in detail on the pages of our portal. Therefore, repeating itself - there is not much sense in sight. It is better to focus on the circuit diagram of the circuit breaker.

How to install an outlet in an apartment?

With this task, subject to all safety requirements of work and following the schemes and technological recommendations, any homeowner should cope. With all the details, with several step-by-step examples, this is described in a special article of our portal "How to connect an outlet".

Two-button switch

This switch allows you to control the lighting of two separate luminaires (groups of luminaires), or to make separate switching on of groups of lamps, for example, in one multi-track chandelier.

The two rocker switches may differ. Most often, a model is used in which one common (parallel) phase input and two separate outputs. Its scheme can be represented as follows:

Obviously, each of the keys is completely independent of the other controls its own group of lighting fixtures. For example, such switches are often placed in front of the bathroom and toilet - you can turn on the light in any room or in both at the same time. Or, attached to one lamp. The first key turns on one or two bulbs, the light of which is enough for a normal rest. The second key - uses a little more lamps, that is, the light will be brighter. But when full lighting is required, both keys turn on and all the horns light up.

The diagram below will help the wizard who is first faced with this question to better understand the connection principle.

In the junction box, zero wires diverge to the luminaires. The phase wire is connected to the input of the two-button switch. And from each of the outputs a separate conductor goes through the junction box, each to its own lamp. Their inclusion can be carried out separately, independently of one another, or simultaneously.

It is clear that a three-core cable must already be laid from the junction box to the switch. And here it is already necessary to pay special attention to the correct marking of the wires, as mentioned above. The colors of the insulation of the wires converging in the box can often coincide, and thus mislead the inexperienced installer.

Let's say right away that a three-button switch is connected according to the same principle. The number of wires leaving it just increases.

Some care should be taken when purchasing a two-button switch. The fact is that, although rare, but still there are models with a separate phase input. On the diagram, it might look like this:

Note: the indicated marking of the terminal contacts is very conditional. By the way, the producers do not have a unanimous opinion on this issue. There are completely arbitrary digital and alphanumeric contact signatures, or even symbols in the form of arrows. But in combination with the diagram, usually printed on the back of the switch case, it is not difficult to deal with each specific case.

It is clear that the circuit shown above is not quite suitable for such a switch. True, if it was by mistake to buy just such a model, everything is solved by installing a jumper that closes both contacts at the input.

Such switches are also used. It is clear that to bring two different phases into one socket is complete madness. But sometimes circumstances force the lines to be fed from two different circuit breakers. Although this looks like an extremely inexpedient and cumbersome solution.

You can use a similar device for some complicated lighting control schemes. For example, it is required to organize switching in such a way that the switching on of a group of lamps lies depending on whether another group is switched on. In this case, you can install a jumper between the output of one "channel" and the input of another. If you look at the illustration above, it is between L1 and L2.

What is achieved by this is shown by the following diagram.

A jumper connecting the output of the left key with the input of the right is shown in green.

A phase wire is connected directly to the input of the left key. And in her work she is completely independent. That is, its inclusion leads to the inclusion of devices connected to this line. But if it is off, then the second key will not work - the circuit in the second line is open. But when the first is turned on, then the second can already "lead his team."

Such cases are rare, but who knows, maybe such an option will come in handy.

Connecting the pass-through switch

Imagine situations like this:

Spacious entrance hall. The owner returned home in the dark, turned on the light at the entrance, took off his shoes, undressed. And then he is forced to turn off the light and make his way in the dark to the door to the room. Inconvenient. The opportunity arises to turn off the light just at the exit from the hallway.
A long corridor, passing through which it will also be more convenient to turn on the light at the entrance and turn it off at the exit.
A walk-through common room or hall, from where several doors lead to adjacent rooms. It would be nice to be able to control the lighting from each of them.

And there can be many such options. To solve this problem, it is necessary to use pass-through switches, the name of which already speaks for itself.

By and large, these are not even switches, but switches. Outwardly, they look like the usual one-key. They are often marked with a distinctive icon in the form of multidirectional vertical arrows. But the scheme of their internal switching differs from the usual one-key ones and looks like this:

Two positions of the switch button correspond to two switching options - to one or the second output. And such switches in a common system are always used in pairs.

Their electrical installation diagram may look like this:

We begin to understand.

With a neutral wire - no changes.

The phase wire from the box goes to the input of one of the switches. A wire is connected to the input contact of the second switch, which goes to the luminaire. (Both are shown in brown).

Output # 2 of the first switch is connected through the back box with a wire to output # 3 of the second. (Highlighted in purple).

And, accordingly, exit # 3 of the first - with exit # 2 of the second.

Thus, it turns out that a three-core cable must be connected to each single-key pass-through switch.

In the position shown in the diagram, it is quite obvious that the power supply circuit of the luminaire is open. But it is worth moving the key to a different position on any of the switches, as the circuit closes. And vice versa - when the lighting is on, any of the switches is capable of breaking the circuit.

By the way, the switching of the output contacts shown here is not a dogma at all. It's just that with such a scheme, the same position of the keys (both up or both down) of the pass-through switches means an open circuit. Unequal - inclusion. But nothing prevents the contacts of the same name from being connected to each other - just actuation and deactivation will occur at other key positions. It doesn't matter.

The animated illustration below clearly shows how such a scheme with two pass-through switches works.

Pass-through switches can be two- and even three-key, that is, they can control two or three lighting devices (groups of devices) according to the same principle. We will not give the scheme - it is not fundamentally different. Only, of course, the number of wires is increasing.

Cross switch application

But what if you want to have three or even more lighting control points? For example, on the switch at the head of the owner's bed in the bedroom and at the entrance to the room? Or at each of the exits of a spacious hall with many doors?

There is a solution to this problem. For this, together with a pair of pass-through switches, another one is used. It is called crossover or intermediate.

The cross switch can also be one or two keys. For external distinction, an image is often applied on its front side in the form of multidirectional horizontal arrows or in the form of a lattice.

Let's consider a simpler option - one-key. He has such a switching scheme.

The single-key cross-switch has four terminals, that is, four wires must be connected to it from the junction box. And they are nothing more than those conductors that connect the output terminals of the feed-through switches. That is, in fact, the cross switch is placed in the gap of this pair of wires. An example is shown in the diagram below:

How it works is clearly demonstrated by the following illustration:

It is already difficult to describe all the possible options here - there are quite a few of them. But the main thing can be summed up unambiguously. Whatever position the switch keys are in when the system is not working, changing the position of any of them will immediately turn on the lighting. And vice versa - when the light is on, it is enough to switch any key to make it go out. That is, the lighting control can be completely equivalently performed from any of the points.

Another interesting feature is that the number of cross switches between checkpoints is not limited by anything. And no matter how many of them are installed according to this principle, they will all be able to control the connected lighting device with absolutely equal success.

So, the main, most frequently used circuit breakers connection schemes were considered. The only question that remained not entirely clear was - where is it better to locate them? On this score, there are also quite definite recommendations. We will not describe them here - they are very well described in the video clip below.

Video: How to place switches in an apartment more correctly and with maximum convenience for yourself?

poptiz.ru

Switch how to connect correctly

How to connect the switch correctly | For home, for family

Hello dear readers of the site sesaga.ru. Many are faced with such a problem as connecting a switch. It's actually pretty simple. The main thing is to have a minimal understanding of electricity from the school physics course and the ability to work with a locksmith's tool.

It's one thing to simply replace an old switch with a new one, and another thing to add a new one to the existing wiring. Consider the possible options for the circuit breakers connection.

Attention! All work on replacing the switches should be performed with the 220V disconnected.

As you can see, the diagram is very simple. The phase (brown) with a wire (1) enters the box and, connecting with the core wire (2), is connected to the lower (input) contact of the switch. From the upper (output) contact, already a dashed line, the phase with a wire (2) enters the box and, connecting in the box with the core wire (3), comes to the light bulb. Zero (blue) with a wire (1) goes into the box and, connecting with the core wire (3), comes to the light bulb.

Remember! Zero core (zero) from the junction box goes directly to the ceiling to the light bulb. Only the phase conductor goes to the switch and from it to the light bulb. This is provided for by the rules and done for the sake of your safety and the safe operation of electrical equipment, so that when the switch is off, it is the phase that breaks, and not zero. Since when disconnected from the load by the neutral wire switch, the wiring remains under the phase voltage, and this is dangerous and inconvenient. For example, when replacing a light bulb, it will be enough to turn off the switch and there will be no voltage on the lamp.

To determine the phase wire, it is enough to use an indicator screwdriver. Before work, the screwdriver is checked for serviceability, in a place known to be energized. For example, your socket. A lit indicator indicates the presence of a phase.

Now let's look at a circuit with a two-button switch.

In this circuit, one phase and a light bulb were added. Here, the phase (brown) with a wire (1) enters the box, connecting with the core wire (2) is connected to the lower (input) contacts of the switch. From the upper (output) contacts with a dotted line, the phase, multiplying by two, enters the box with a wire (2), connects to the wires of the wire (3) and comes to the light bulbs. Depending on which contact of the switch is closed, such a lamp lights up. Zero (blue) goes into the box with a wire (1) and, connecting with a core wire (3), comes to the light bulbs.

There is one nuance here. If you want to replace an ordinary switch with a double one, then you will have to pull one "phase" core from the box to the switch, and one more "phase" core to the light bulb.

To identify the input and output contacts according to the scheme, it is enough to look at the back of the switch. A double, as a rule, has three outputs: two on one side (L1 and L2) - output, and one on the opposite (L3) - input.

You can also use a measuring device such as a multimeter. Put the multimeter in the "dial-up" mode, and with the test leads sit on the intended input and one output contacts. Turning on and off the switch key, we monitor the readings of the device. If the contact closes, the multimeter will emit a beep or the indicator will show the value of the short-circuit resistance, that is, zeros.

Now we leave one probe of the multimeter on the intended input, and with the other we sit down on the second output contact and also try to press the next switch key. If the device shows the value of the short-circuit resistance or emits a sound signal, it means that we did everything correctly and the input contact was found.

Well, if you still have questions about connecting the switch, watch a video that should dispel them.

And in the next post you will learn how to properly connect a chandelier to a double switch. Good luck!

How to connect a one-button switch

Good day, dear guests of the site "Notes of an Electrician".

A small preface.

Remember, a few days ago I installed an apartment electrical panel? So yesterday the owner of this apartment called me with a request for help.

According to him, the "light" disappeared in the corridor. I asked him on the phone to check the working order of the lighting lamp, but he told me that he had checked the lamp and it was working properly. Then I decided to visit him and see why there is no lighting in the corridor. But I told him that his wiring required replacement, to which he convincingly assured me otherwise.

Beginning of work

And here I am. Taking my instrument, I checked the lamp in the hallway once more. The lamp was indeed in good working order. After that, I started troubleshooting. I will say right away that I didn't have to look for a long time.

But first things first, so that you can imagine what it is about.

A few words about the switch itself and the place of its installation. The indoor one-button switch is located in the corridor. This is how it looks.

This switch turns on the lighting in the hallway. Lighting is made in the form of one energy-saving lamp. Therefore, in this article we will consider the connection diagram of a one-button switch for one light bulb.

In the article on how to hang a chandelier, you will learn all the ways to install and fix a chandelier.

One-button switch wiring diagram

This is the simplest circuit for wiring a switch. I think it will not cause you any difficulties, tk. only 2 wires come to the switch.

From the apartment panel, power (phase - red wire, zero - blue wire) comes to the junction box, which is located in the corridor.

It's important to know!!! Read the article on how to properly connect wires in a junction box.

The phase (red) is connected in the junction box with a wire (red) that goes to the switch. From the switch, the wire (orange) goes back to the junction box, where it is connected to the wire (orange) that goes to the load (lamp). This is the switched phase per lamp.

Zero (blue) is connected in the junction box with a wire (blue), which immediately goes to the load (light bulb). It is convenient to use Vago terminals for wire connections in the junction box.

Here is a similar circuit, only instead of one light bulb, five are connected.

Attention!!! The switch should always break exactly the phase, and not zero.

All this is necessary for the sake of our own electrical safety. When replacing the lamp, it will be enough to turn off the switch, and there will be no voltage in the socket. Change yourself calmly. If you mix it up and switch zero with a switch, then when you replace the lamp, it will in any case remain energized. And this is very dangerous. Read my articles about the effect of electric current on a person and an industrial accident (example).

If you are interested in how to connect a two-button switch, then read my article on the connection diagram for a two-button switch.

We are looking for a malfunction

Let's go back to the malfunction.

So, having unscrewed the light bulb from the socket (E27) and turned on the switch, we check with the help of the voltage indicator the phase (orange in the figure) comes from the switch to the lamp or not. In our case, the phase does not come to the lamp. This indicates the following malfunctions. Either the switch itself is faulty, or the wiring from the switch to the lamp is in an open circuit (see the switch wiring diagram).

Having removed the key, we will see the screws that secure the switch to the socket and the screws that secure the wires to the switch. This is where we need to make sure that there is a phase in the conclusions.

To do this, we again use the contact-55EM low voltage indicator, and measure the incoming and outgoing phases.

And here a "surprise" awaited us.

The phase came to the switch, but it did not leave it. This indicates that the switch itself is faulty. Therefore, it must be removed.

We turn off the voltage in the apartment using a circuit breaker. By the way, this is a feature of this particular apartment. If you have several lines (groups) in your apartment or floor switchboard, then we accordingly turn off the automatic machine of the line (group) where the work will be performed.

Then we unscrew the screws securing the switch and carefully bend it back. Please note that I have not yet unscrewed the screws that secure the wires.

And what do we see?

And we see the following. One of the wires fell out of the switch terminal.

And we also see that the color coding of the wires is completely absent. This was to be expected, since the electrical wiring in the apartment is quite old.

The reason for the falling wire is the weak pulling of the screws securing the wires.

Completion of work

The fault was corrected, the wire was inserted back into the terminal and the screws were tightened.

The switch is connected. It remains only to insert it into the metal socket box and tighten the screws securing the switch.

Now you can check the work done. We turn on the voltage in the disconnected section of the circuit and check the operation of the one-button switch. Everything works fine.

By the way, do you know why the energy-saving lamp flashes?

P.S. Well, on this we will conclude the article, where I told you about the connection diagram of a one-button switch and how to troubleshoot the wiring.

zametkielectrika.ru

Step-by-step instructions on how to properly connect the switch to the lamp

During a major overhaul or construction of an object, you need to think in advance about where the lighting devices and switches will be located. If you have already decided on their location, then it's time to think about how to put it all together and make it work correctly and properly for many years.

General notes on wiring

Installation and connection of wiring devices, that is, sockets and switches, is carried out only when the power supply is disconnected.
The electrical wire is laid only in a straight line, both horizontally and vertically.
If the building is wooden, then the electrical wire is laid on top of the wall. Direct contact of the electric wire and the wall surface is not allowed. It is wound either in a corrugation, or mounted on special insulators, which are made of non-conductive materials.
In stone buildings, brick, panel, monolithic houses, electrical wiring is laid under the plaster.

The electric wire consists of current-carrying conductors and a sheath. Lived in an electrical wire can be two or more. Usually two and three-core wires are used. One of the veins serves to create a continuous network. No voltage is applied to it. It is called an empty or zero phase. The rest of the veins are called working phases or veins. She or they supply electricity to electrical appliances.

Tools and materials for installation

What materials and tools do we need to mount and connect the switch to an electric light bulb?

Switch.
Electric wire. In our case, it doesn't matter which electrical wire will be used, copper or aluminum. But, if the entire electrical network of an apartment or house is made of copper wire, then you need to install a copper one. If made of aluminum, then aluminum.
Junction boxes. They are used for laying electrical connections. Do not be afraid to install junction boxes. When using boxes, the likelihood of breaking the integrity of the connections is reduced, which means that the risk of a short circuit is reduced.
Electric indicator screwdriver. We will need it to determine the working and zero phases in the electrical wire, to check the presence of current in the network.
Nippers. They will be needed to cut the wire.
Pliers. With their help, stronger wire twists are made.
Insulating tape and gray. Wire connections, bare ends must be insulated. They are wrapped with electrical tape, then put on the siz connection. It is a cap and provides a secure connection.
Fastening element. Clamps are required when working on wooden surfaces. With their help, the corrugation is attached to the wall. When installing the wire on a stone surface, you will need clips, clamps, screws, dowels. But the most reliable fastener is still considered a strip cut from an aluminum can with a nail in the middle.
Socket box. It is a steel or plastic device, shaped like a glass. The socket is intended for installing a switch or socket.
Perforator. It will be needed in order to open the plaster, in other words, grind, make holes. If the switch is put in a new place or for the first time, then you will also need a cutter the size of the bottom of the socket. With its help, a hole is made in the wall, into which a socket is then placed.

We decide on the type of switch we need

The design of the circuit breaker is a housing in which a block with current-receiving elements and an interrupting device are installed. The most commonly used key interrupt device. There can be one or several keys in the switch. Mainly one and two rocker switches are used.

There are several types of switches:

There is no need to describe each device separately. Since their installation has no fundamental differences from the installation of a one-button switch. We need it to connect the light bulb. Let's go back to its construction again.

The block of such a switch is equipped with two contacts and one interrupt key. The design may provide a mechanism for securing the shoe in the socket. Usually it consists of two metal petals, the position of which is adjusted with screws. In the free position, the petals are lowered, in the open position they rest against the walls of the socket.

Explanation of the wiring diagram for easier understanding

Let's describe the connection diagram of a switch operating with one lighting device, in our case with a light bulb. I must say that the switch is always placed on the working core, phase. That is, it interrupts the power supply to the light bulb. Leaving it under constant load is dangerous.

The wires of the common apartment electrical network, the wires coming from the switch and the wires that come from the electric cartridge of the light bulb are brought into the junction box. One of the wires of the cartridge is connected to the zero core of the common electrical network, the second to the core wire coming from the switch. The second conductor of the switch wire is connected to the working phase of the general power grid. Thus, the working core of the cartridge is connected to the working core of the electrical network through a switch. When the switch is turned on, the load is applied to the lamp, when it is turned off, it is interrupted.

Marking of places of installation of electrical appliances

Before starting the installation work, you need to mark how the switch will be located, the electrical wire on the wall, ceiling, where the light bulb will be installed. Perhaps it will not stand on the ceiling, but on one of the walls. The switch is placed near the door leading to the room, at a distance of about 30 cm.If the room is a walk-through, then near the doorway leading to the adjacent room, at a distance of about 25-30 cm. The switch can be installed at a height from the floor, starting from 30 cm and up to 1.6m.

If we mount an additional light bulb on the wall, then the switch is placed at the level of the sockets. After marking the locations of the switch, draw a straight line up to the ceiling. In this place, you will need to put a junction box. Mark the center of the room on the ceiling. A block will be installed here, on which a wire with an electric cartridge is installed. From it we draw a straight line to the wall with a switch.

We draw another line along the wall to the place where the junction box will stand. By the way, at the junction of the wires running along the wall and ceiling, you also need to install a junction box. Then we measure the length of the wire, cut the segments and proceed with the installation.

We carry out the installation of the switch with our own hands

Installation begins with the installation of the switch. If we mount it on a wooden surface, then first a die made of a non-electrically conductive material, such as plastic or well-dried wood, is placed. Then the junction box is installed. Then we connect the wire to the switch, put it in the corrugation and fasten it to the wall.

We install a special block on the ceiling, which has two current-receiving contacts. It is also installed on a die. In the future, a wire with a light bulb will be connected to this block. The piece of wire intended for the ceiling is inserted into the corrugation and led to the wall with a switch. On the wall, we put it into a separate junction box. We take another piece of wire, enclose it in a corrugation and lead to the main junction box. Naturally, we fasten all the segments to the wall and ceiling.

Then we connect a wire with an electric cartridge and a light bulb to the block on the ceiling. Usually these pads are equipped with a screw connection. The end of the bare wire can be inserted into a terminal and then pressed down with a bolt. It can also be connected directly with a bolt, that is, the ends of the wires are wound around the bolt and pressed against it. Then we twist the ends of the wires in the first junction box. Pliers can be used for a tighter twist.

We carefully insulate the twists and cover them with glauces. Then we turn off the power supply and open the ends of the common electrical network. We turn on the electricity again. We find with the help of an electric indicator screwdriver the zero phase of the common network. When touching the working core, the screwdriver indicator lights up. When touching zero, no. We mark the zero phase and turn off the electricity.

Connection of wires in the junction box

We make all the ends into the junction box, that is, the wires of the common network, the wires of the switch and the wires of the light bulb. We connect them. One end of the wire from the light bulb is connected to the zero core of the common network, the other to one of the ends of the switch wire. The remaining free end of the switch wire is connected to the working core of the common network.

We twist all connections tightly with pliers and insulate with electrical tape. On top of the connections we put on gray hair. We connect the electricity. We turn on, check. If the light comes on, close the boxes and use it. If not, check the connections. We will talk about possible malfunctions just below.

Features of installation of wires under plaster

Installation of a switch in a stone building has some differences from installation in a wooden house. Electrical wiring in such buildings is laid under the plaster. If the switch is installed on a plastered wall, then it is grooved, that is, using a perforator, a channel is laid in the plaster for laying the wire and installing the socket. The plaster is removed to the stone wall. All other steps for installation on a plastered wall are exactly the same as on an unplastered wall.

Installation of electricians in concrete walls without plaster

If the installation is carried out on a bare, unplastered wall, then first, using a perforator equipped with a cutter, make a recess for the installation of a socket outlet. It is fixed in this recess with dowels or alabaster. The wire is attached to the wall with clamps, clips or using the homemade fasteners described above. You do not need to feel sorry for fasteners. You need to put it at a distance of no more than 20 cm from each other. Junction boxes are also attached to the wall using self-tapping screws and dowels.

Slab gutters - electrician's assistants

Floor slabs in stone houses have gutters inside. The electrical wire to the ceiling light goes through one of these gutters. For this, two holes are punched with a perforator. One is at the point where the wire enters the plate. The other is in the place where the block for mounting the cartridge and light bulb will be located. The block to which the electric cartridge with a light bulb will be attached is placed on the die.

If the die is wooden, then it is simply glued to the ceiling surface. If it is made of other materials, then it is either glued or fastened to the ceiling with self-tapping screws. The case is removed from the switch, connected to a wire and fixed in a socket box. For this, there is a fastening mechanism on the switch block. The bolts in the mechanism are tightened so that the switch is firmly in the socket and does not swing.

Then twist all the connections, isolate them. Then they mark the zero core of the common network and turn off the electricity. Then the switch and the light bulb are connected to the common network according to the above scheme. The zero core of the working network is connected to the zero phase of the light bulb. The ends of the switch wire are connected to the working core of the common network and to the working core of the light bulb. Isolate thoroughly and power up. Turn on the switch and check. Lights up, you can use. No, we check the connections. After finishing the installation, the surfaces are plastered.

Before plastering starts, the switch is removed. They put it finally after finishing the wall surface. For the duration of its implementation, the bare ends are isolated. And the socket is closed with something.

Installing the light bulb on the wall

The installation of a switch for a light bulb mounted on a wall does not fundamentally differ from the above installation. If there is no junction box installed on the wall and no wire laid, then you will have to pull it from the common junction box. And the connection diagram is the same. We put the box, we put the wires from the common network, the switch and the wall device into it, we connect the light bulb to the zero core of the common network, the switch from the working light bulb and the common network. After the installation is completed, the corrugation in which the wire is laid should be closed with a decorative box.

Possible malfunctions

If after installation the light does not light up, then it is possible that the wires are badly twisted. We need to check the connections. There is no need to check each one for this. You need to start with the wires included in the switch. We take an indicator screwdriver and check if electricity is supplied to the switch. Let's touch with a screwdriver one by one the ends of the wire entering the switch. If the indicator is off, then there is a fault in the connection to the general network.

Once again, twist the wires connecting the working phases of the switch and the common network, after turning off the electricity. Let's check it again. If the current is supplied, and the light is still off, then the fault is either in the switch or in the rest of the electrical circuit.

If the switch is working properly, then the indicator should light up when you touch both of its contacts. If the indicator is on only on one of the contacts, then the switch is faulty. Better to replace it immediately. A defective item will not work for a long time. If the switch is good, we check each connection until we find the fault.

Detailed explanation in video format

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How to properly connect a light switch

This article will show you how to properly install a light switch. Switches are used to control electrical light sources in residential and commercial areas. In most cases, the switches are wall mounted. The location, the height at which they are installed, and the shape of the switches vary from country to country. Switches are of various types: single or multi-key, for indoor or outdoor installation, etc. Installing and connecting the switch is a simple task, provided that you understand the basic principles of electrical networks and observe safety precautions when carrying out electrical work.

In this article, we will show you step by step how to install a switch. To do this, you will need:

Tools:

voltage indicator;
pliers;
screwdriver;
level;
protective gloves and goggles.

turn off the power supply in your apartment before starting work;
Before touching the wires, use the voltage indicator on each wire to make sure the power is off;
if you are in doubt, if you do not want to take risks, it is better to hire a professional electrician.

Preparatory work

The first thing you should do is turn off the power. Some people believe that it is enough to disconnect only the circuit on which the switch is to be installed, but we strongly recommend that you completely de-energize your apartment.

Using a voltage indicator on each wire, make sure it is safe to touch them. Better to check several times before starting work.

Power outage.

The next step of the project is cleaning the socket (installation box) from paint, small pieces of drywall, dust and dirt. This operation is very important, especially when it comes to a newly renovated room or apartment in a new building. But even if you are replacing an old switch, it is best to assess the condition of the socket beforehand to ensure that the new switch can be installed and aligned properly.

Preparing the socket for installing the switch.

After you have bought a new switch, you must disassemble it with a screwdriver or simply by hand, depending on its type and manufacturer. This operation is indispensable as you will be connecting electrical wires to the inside of the switch. It is necessary to remove the switch buttons and the frame.

Disassembled switch.

Now you have to connect the wiring. Using pliers, cut off the excess length of the wires - they should protrude from the wall by about 15 cm. This length should be enough to easily connect the switch. Do not leave the wires too long, otherwise it will be difficult to place them inside the socket.

Cutting wires.

Once the wires have been shortened to the desired length, you can proceed to the next step. Use a pair of pliers to remove about 2 cm of insulation from each wire. Stripping long lengths is dangerous, as bare wires during operation can accidentally touch, causing a short circuit.

Use pliers to shape the end of each wire into a L-shape (or C-shape for some switches with side screws).

Tip: The easiest and most effective way to strip a wire is to use a wire stripper.

Removing insulation from wires.

Connecting wires to the light switch

You probably noticed that the wires are colored differently: the brown wire is the phase, the yellow-green is the ground. (Standards for color coding of conductor insulation differ from country to country.) Each of these wires must be connected to a specific connector.

How to connect the switch correctly? There are slight differences in the connection of one- and two-button switches. The main thing to remember: the phase should open, the phase wire is attached to the connector marked L (usually at the bottom of the switch).

After placing the end of each wire into its connector, secure them with screws using a screwdriver. Make sure the wires are securely fastened, otherwise the switch will not work properly.

Connecting wires to the switch.

Check again that the wires are connected correctly and that they are securely fastened. In the picture below, you can see how to connect a two-button light switch.

How to connect a switch with two keys.

After completing the connection of the wires, you must bend them to "hide" in the box. Make sure there is enough room for the switch. If there is no problem, you can secure the switch in the box with screws. Take your time to tighten the screws tightly, first check how well the switch is aligned.

Placement of the switch in the box.

Use a level, laser or alcohol to level the switch. In the picture below you can see the technique for doing this. If you notice horizontal deviation, loosen the screws and correct the position of the switch.

Breaker alignment.

Do not forget to securely fix the switch with screws at the end. Just do not overdo it, otherwise you risk ripping off the screw threads or damaging the switch.

Fastening the switch.

The next step is to attach the frame and switch buttons in place. You don't need tools for this, just your fingers. A small press, and the elements removed at the very beginning are again in their places.

This operation is perhaps the easiest. In addition, it foreshadows the imminent completion of the work.

Installation of switch buttons.

It remains to turn on the power on the electrical panel. Turn on the lights with the new switch just installed to make sure your work hasn't been wasted and everything is functioning as it should. Is the light on? So now you know how to connect a light switch.

Installed switch.

Translation source: http://www.howtospecialist.com

www.dobsovet.ru

diagram and how to connect, installation instead of a switch, how is Viko correct, is it possible to lamps

It is quite easy to connect a dimmer, with which everyone can easily cope. Sometimes it becomes necessary to change the light intensity. This can be done using special dimmers, which are called dimmers. Most of them are mounted as a switch. It is worth noting that the dimmer connection diagram is very simple, therefore, you can completely cope with this task yourself.

This device is used to control the brightness level of lamps, as well as control the temperature of heating devices. They work most effectively with incandescent lamps, allowing them to significantly extend their service life, since a minimum current is supplied to the lamp. Important! This dimmer cannot be used with fluorescent lamps, as it simply will not work, or the lamp will flash all the time. In this case, it is recommended to select more functional and modern devices.

Dimmer connection diagram

Conventional dimmers are used to connect LED bulbs.

Modern devices can have a number of additional functions, in particular, such as:

Shutdown by timer;
Acoustic control;
Lighting regulation;
Remote control capability;
Various lamp modes.

The simplest devices can only adjust the brightness of the lighting. The dimmer element has its own specific features and disadvantages that must be taken into account. The easiest way to control brightness is using a rheostat. Such a device gets very hot, so an additional cooling system is required.

Electronic dimmers can be based on transistors or triacs. They cannot be used in conjunction with equipment demanding power supply characteristics. It is very important to connect the power supply correctly. When choosing this device, it is important not only to consider what type they belong to, but also the nature of the load.

Monoblock dimmers are often installed in apartments and private houses. In houses, a modular design can also be applied, which will allow the brightness of the illumination of the local area.

Relatively recently, the only available option for adjusting the brightness of lighting fixtures was the installation of a rheostat.

Now a dimmer is used instead. It can be connected as a conventional switch, that is, in a break in the power supply circuit of the lighting fixture. The dimensions of such a regulator and the fasteners for it completely coincide with the parameters of a conventional switch.

There are several different types of such a device, in particular, such as:

Sensory;
LED;
Turning;
Push-on;
Single;
Double.

The LED dimmer helps to quickly and efficiently deliver the results obtained, as well as smoothly adjust the flow of light flux. Touch dimmer - a dimmer with the ability to control the luminous flux by lightly touching a certain part of the button. Additionally, it can be equipped with an infrared receiver for remote control. A rotary dimmer means a slight rotation of the control.

A single device can be supplied for a single luminaire or a group of luminaires combined into one group. The two-key dimmer is designed to control several light sources at once. The most widespread are rotary controls, since the control of the light intensity is carried out by simply turning the knob in the required direction.

How to connect a dimmer

The dimmer is designed not only to turn the chandelier on and off, but also helps to smoothly adjust the brightness of the lighting. This makes it possible to significantly save on energy consumption. An electrician can install the dimmer, or it is quite possible to do it yourself, since its connection does not cause any difficulties.

In order to connect a dimmer, you must follow the step-by-step instructions

The simplest dimmer can be connected in just a few minutes, since it has only 2 pins. However, even if you do not strictly adhere to the rules of polarity, the device will still work.

To connect a dimmer, you need:

Disconnect electricity;
Dismantle the old switch;
Connect the appropriate wires;
Install it in the back box;
Secure with special feet.

After everything is ready, you need to turn on the electricity again and check the operation of the device. It is worth noting that the dimmer works only with a certain type of load, which is why it is important to choose the right lamps.

To be able to work with LED lamps, it is imperative to purchase special devices. When buying a dimmer, you need to clarify what kind of lighting sources it can work with.

The dimmer is considered one of the most economical elements of the electrical network. Installing it helps to save energy and pay for a much lower number of kW, as it helps to adjust the brightness of one or several lighting fixtures at once. To determine what kind of dimmer is needed, it is important to understand what similar devices are in terms of performance.

In particular, such types of devices can be distinguished as:

Modular;
On a cord;
Monoblock.

Installation of modular devices is carried out in the electrical panel. The scheme of their connection and execution is very simple. The dimmer works with incandescent and halogen lamps through step-down transformers. To make it convenient to use, the device has a rocker switch or button. It is mainly used to control the brightness level at the entrance gates, courtyard lighting and stairwells.

The device on a cord helps to regulate the power of the sconces and other lighting fixtures that are not connected to the mains, but are connected through the socket and plug. This type of switch only works with incandescent bulbs. It can even be attached to an LED strip. Monoblock is similar to an ordinary switch, and works well with any kind of lamp.

Types of devices and how to properly connect a dimmer

A dimmer is a dimming device whose principle of operation is to smoothly regulate the voltage level that is supplied to a spotlight or chandelier.

Among the most popular types are the following:

Viko;
Schneider electric;
Anam legrand;
Werkel;
Universal;
ALT400903
Makel.

In order to choose the most suitable type of dimmer correctly, you must first consult with a specialist. Among the best devices, it is necessary to highlight models from the company Lezard, Anam Legrand, Vico, Schneider. These companies have been producing products for the electrical network for a long time and have earned the most positive reviews. To connect the device, the dimmable device must first be de-energized, and then the wire must be connected to the corresponding terminals. It is worth noting that the dimmer can be external and internal, therefore, it can be easily selected for an open and closed power grid.

Dimmer setting

To regulate the brightness level of the lamps, you need to install a dimmer that will help reduce power consumption. Installing a dimmer is no different from installing a conventional rocker switch. If necessary, it can be very easily disassembled for repairs or mounting another device. It is worth remembering that grounding is required to install a touch-type dimmer.

Before installing the dimmer, you must first turn off the power

Initially, you need to turn off the electricity and dismantle the old switch, and then:

Remove the key;
Remove frame;
Unscrew the bolts;
Loosen the mounting tabs;
Get the switch;
Disconnect the cable.

Connect and install the dimmer. Repeat step by step the entire process that was carried out before, dismantling the old switch, only in the reverse order. It is worth remembering that, unlike the most ordinary switch, which works regardless of the order of connecting the wires. It is important to connect the outgoing and incoming wires together.

How to install a dimmer with your own hands (video)

Installing a dimmer is not at all difficult, the most important thing is to strictly follow the instructions, as well as observe safety precautions. If necessary, you can very quickly and easily turn off the dimmer, carry out repair work, and then connect it back.

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Viko has done everything to make their switches easy and simple to connect

Viko is one of those companies that can adequately represent Turkey in the international market.

Since its founding in 1988, Viko has stepped forward to meet the demand for products such as sockets, switches, extension cords, accessories and machine boxes.

Initially, the company's policy was aimed not only at meeting domestic demand in Turkey, but also for the supply of its goods for export.

As a result, to date, more than 70% of all Viko products are exported, which indicates the high quality of their products.

Thanks to the use of high-quality raw materials and materials, as well as high requirements for the quality of products, today viko is one of the largest suppliers of switches, sockets and other electrical items.

The company's pricing policy provides for coverage of the lower and middle segment. Viko is primarily about reliability, durability and practicality in use, but not design "excesses"

Nevertheless, if you decide to install Viko switches in your apartment, then you can always find in the same style and sockets, and cover plates, and horizontal and vertical frames - all this helps to maintain a uniform style in the design of the interior of your home.

Viko brand switch Carmen series

Among Viko products, the most popular among Russian consumers is the Carmen series.

This is due to both the attractive price and the versatility of application to almost any interior.

A convex square with rounded corners in two basic colors, white and cream, fits almost any interior and is actively used by electricians.

Switches of this series are single-key, two-key, three-key, pass-through, with and without illumination.

All of them work flawlessly and do not require any maintenance during the entire period of operation.

In addition, elements from Viko switches / sockets from other series are always on sale, so you can easily change the design to a more acceptable one, for example, from the Karre or Vera series.

Installation materials and tools:

So, if you have opted for a Viko switch and want to connect it yourself, then you will need the following materials and tools:

Cable - it is better to use a copper cable, because Copper is a better conductor than aluminum and the service life of such a cable is much longer.
Cable stripper
Flat screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver
Voltage indicator (probe)

All Viko circuit breakers are easy to install and there are practically no special conditions.

In this case, the procedure for carrying out work is the same.

Disassembly

The switches are sold assembled and must be disassembled before installation, for this:

Pry off the switch buttons with a flat screwdriver and remove them
Use a screwdriver to pry off the plastic transparent cover located under the keys and remove it too
Separate the decorative strip from the metal frame.

This entire procedure takes less than one minute and you will have to repeat all these steps in reverse order to assemble the circuit breaker.

Connection diagram

two-gang switch wiring diagram

one-key switch circuit

So, when the switch is disassembled, depending on which type of release you have chosen, you need to connect it.

The connection diagram is not very different. In any case, one wire (phase) comes to the switch, and one, two or three wires go from it, if you connect one-key, two-key and three-key switches, respectively.

Backlit Viko 2-gang switch

However, for all the simplicity of the design, some people have questions about installing Viko backlit switches.

Indeed, many people choose these types of switches for their practicality.

The weak red glow of the indicator makes it easy to find the light switch in the dark and, undoubtedly, this has its undeniable advantages.

Indicators in Viko circuit breakers must be connected by yourself.

If you have chosen this type of construction, then after removing the keys (as described above) you will find an LED, from which two red wires extend.

These wires must be connected in such a way that one of them is connected to the “input” at the bottom, and the other to one of the “outputs” at the top.

In this case, the polarity does not matter. The indicator will light up when the switch key, to the "output" of which you connected it, is in the "OFF" state

Wall mounting

Before installing the switch on the wall:

Using the voltage indicator, find the wire along which the phase is suitable and separate it from all other wires
Disconnect the power supply to the circuit breaker

Helpful Hint: Before installing any electrical appliances, make sure that the power is off. Place a sign on the bags with a warning, such as "Do not turn on, people are working!"

Further actions should be carried out only with the electricity off:

Installation video Viko illuminated circuit breaker

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Advantages of the pass-through switch from Legrand, as well as its design and connection diagram

End terminal blocks can be used to connect the Lezard pass-through switch

Where to install an outdoor waterproof outlet and which one to choose

Selection and connection of the differential circuit breaker

electricadom.com

How to connect a three-button switch | ABVEY

Modern trends in the control of lighting systems are developing not only in the direction of comfortable functioning and various designs, but also in increasing the level of economy. One such method is the use of three-button switches that can control three groups of fixtures from a single access point. The benefits of using one three-circuit device are clear. This is an aesthetic appearance, less labor-intensive laying of electrical cables to the connection point. Knocking out one technological niche in the wall to place a mounting box instead of several. Such devices are used to illuminate rooms with complex configurations, long corridors or control from one point of several rooms: a bathroom, a bathroom and a hallway.

Recently, I am often asked by mail and in the comments and asked to advise on such a seemingly ordinary device. Therefore, today we will analyze in detail the topic of how to connect a three-button switch. P.S. In this example, a schneider electric three-button switch is used. The three-button switch is subjected to more intensive use than other electrical switching equipment. The reliability of the device design should provide an average service life of up to 10 years. Malfunctions that occur during operation can be divided into two categories:

- mechanical - associated with the breakdown of the external and internal elements of the case, springs, fasteners, erasing keys, etc.;

- electrical - loosening of the contact clamps in the electrical part of the mechanism, and, as a result, burning of the cables and the entire device as a whole.

Any breakdowns leading to a violation of the integrity of the device or its individual elements require the replacement of the entire product. Repair or replacement of switches, like any other electrical equipment, must be performed by a specialist with the appropriate level of clearance. The room where the repair work is being carried out must be de-energized. You can buy such switches at any electrical store. The wiring diagram for a three-button switch, which is rather complicated at first glance, will also not present any particular problems after carefully reading the provided article. The devices have significant differences in external design and slightly smaller in internal composition. However, the restrictions imposed by a typed wiring network in apartments are forcing the use of switches with a limited number of switching sections in the control mechanism. If it becomes possible to carry out a deep modernization of the electrical network, the use of triple switches will provide more flexible and economical control of lighting sources. In fact, it is nothing different from connecting one and two-key. One of the supply cables is connected to the input of the switch, and the cables of the lighting devices are connected to the output contacts (to the corresponding contacts of the switch block). The differences are in the number of contacts of the switching groups - one, two or three. The photo shows the mounting part of the simplest, typical three-button switch. You can clearly see the difference between the input contacts, to which the phase is supplied, and the output contacts, to which the cables leading to the lighting lamps are connected. The neutral wires of each luminaire are combined together and connected to the neutral wire in the box. The installation of the three-button switch mechanism itself into the socket box is carried out using a support that is fastened with screws or by means of special spacers. After the switch mechanism is securely fixed on top, a decorative frame is installed which is fastened with latches. Wiring diagram for a three-button switch The use of a three-button switch is justified when there is a need to control a large number of lighting zones and / or multi-level lighting. This will make it possible not only to control energy consumption, but also facilitate the technical execution of design solutions in the room.

However, for effective use of the device, you need the correct design and the optimal connection diagram for the three-button switch.

A supply cable enters the junction box from the shield: blue wire zero, brown phase. The phase must be connected to a switch (in our case, to a common contact). A white wire is connected to the common contact of the switch (you can see it in the photo), the other three that go from the box to the switch are wires connected to the "output" contacts (in the box they will be connected to the phase wires of the lamps). The process of connecting the device will require the following set of tools: a flat and Phillips screwdriver, depending on the type of screws used in the mechanism, a stripper or side cutter - a tool for stripping insulation, can be replaced with an ordinary knife, nippers or pliers.

The algorithm for performing installation work may have the following items.

At the installation site of the device, four wires should protrude from the wall. It could be a four-wire cable. More often there is one single-core, which is the phase coming from the junction box, and three-core, which goes to the lighting fixtures through the junction box.

We collect the wires in the box. To connect the wires, I used wago self-clamping terminal blocks, they are very convenient and practical. If there are no such terminal blocks at hand, you can use ordinary twisting (it will be even better in terms of reliability).

The three-button switch connection diagram is assembled. I will explain a little. We connect the zero of the supply wire with all neutral wires of all lamps (in our example, the zero wires are blue). Then we connect the phase of the supply wire to the common contact of the switch (these are brown and white wires). There are three wires that "came" from the switch and three phase wires from each lamp. For clarity, I have put together a color-coded diagram, i.e. connect the red wire that "came" from the switch with the red wire of the lamp, then connect the green wire that "came" from the switch with the green wire of the lamp, etc. the phase wire was connected from the network. It is the phase, and not the neutral, wire that is supplied to the input of any switch, where it will be interrupted. Neutral wires from the mains are immediately connected directly to the neutral wires of the luminaire.

This method of connection is governed by the instructions of the Electrical Installation Rules - PUE. With an incorrect wiring diagram - if the phase is applied to the lamp, and zero is run through the breaker, the network will still function, but deviation from the standard version is fraught with danger during operation. In this case, even with the breaker turned off, all electrical wiring will continue to be energized and a person may be at risk of electric shock when replacing bulbs. Damage or breakdown of insulation, in the absence of the provided grounding of the lighting device, will lead to a voltage in the device case. And, as a result, an electric shock at the slightest touch.

Trying the circuit at work. We turn on one switch key. One lamp came on - everything is correct.

We turn on another switch key, another lamp lit up.

To determine where the phase and neutral conductors are located in the junction box, you should first try to visually identify the wires belonging to the marking. Then, using a tester or an indicator screwdriver, you will finally make sure of this. Connecting wires to a three-button switch There are various models of three-switch switches: for external, internal installation or combined - in one housing with a socket. Before connecting the three-button switch, you need to get to the connection terminals. To gain access to the three-button switch mechanism, you need to pull out the keys and remove the frame. This operation can be performed without the use of a special tool. First, you need to remove the keys. The edge of the key is pressed with a finger against the wall in the off position, the other, protruding edge is picked up by a fingernail or a flat screwdriver and pulled towards itself. Basically, in new devices, the keys sit on the rails quite tightly, you do not need to apply excessive force to remove, you can damage the front element and ruin the entire switch.

The switch frame is attached to the mechanism with a clamping insert, which is located in the middle. The fastening can be made in the form of guides that fit tightly into the mechanism or, as indicated in the photo, in the form of latches that should be pry off with a screwdriver. The method of fastening the wires in the mechanism is using clamping screws. Before inserting the stripped wires, make sure the screws are not completely screwed into the slots. The three-button switch has four contacts for connecting wires: one for the input and three for the output. The switch mechanism itself should separate the common terminal to which the phase wire and terminals should be connected, from which voltage will be applied to the individual lighting sections. As a rule, these contact groups are divided into separate sockets and are located on the back of the device.

On the wires, no more than 5-10 mm of insulation is removed so that the bare wire cannot be seen from the contact hole. The clamping screws are tightened firmly, when checking for extraction, the wire should not have any backlash. the circuit breaker is assembled in reverse order.

Replacing the socket with your own hands

Socket with electronic timer

How to connect a two-button switch

In contact with

classmates

IMPORTANT! Before starting the installation work, make sure that the network is de-energized. If there is easy access to the main switch, post a warning sign for electrical work.

abvey.ru

How to connect a switch with an outlet. How to install an electrical switch box with a socket.

In order to save wires and space on the walls, electrical appliances are often combined with each other through junction boxes or other devices. Most often, a socket with a switch is combined in one case; due to its practicality, this particular connection scheme has become the most popular among homeowners.

There are several types of connection, which differ in their type and principle of operation. Previously, in an apartment and a private house, sockets with switches, not connected in one case, were mainly installed. This made it possible to connect the wires together in the junction box, but at the same time not to combine these two electrical outlets together. This option is suitable if, for some reason, it is not possible to install these consumers next to or at the same height.

Photo - Scheme

The advantages of this option:

Availability. You can buy the cheapest sockets and switches for lamps and combine them into one scheme;
Simple wiring diagram. If you do everything carefully, then there will be no problems with installing the junction box and connecting the wires in it with your own hands;
Safety. If the wiring is short-circuited or overloaded, the wires may melt. Due to the fact that a single, double or triple switch is installed separately from the outlet, the fire safety of the apartment is increased.

Now more and more masters use a special unit for such purposes (for example, these are the manufacturers Makel - Makel, ABB - ABB), in which an electrical outlet and a switch are combined. The main advantage of such a connection scheme is its simplicity - there is no need to separately maintain contacts and double-check the correctness of their connection. It should also be noted that it is not necessary to hammer the wall with a puncher in two places, only one hole is enough, suitable for the size of the block.

Photo - block

It is easy to carry out the transfer of the system, its location is simply changed by hauling the cables;
The installation height of this socket with a switch is easy to make according to the European standard, there is no need to separately measure the level of each tap;
Can be used for outdoor placement, indoor, etc .;
Convenient to mount on any surface. Installation in drywall, brick, stone, foam block is possible.

The disadvantages include the fact that if you need to replace any separate part of the structure, then most likely you will have to change the entire unit.

Blocks are classified by the number of outlets and the type of light bulb or chandelier switches. You can buy a one-key, two-key, three-key option.

Separate wiring diagram

The easiest way to connect an outlet and an Anam 1-button switch is to connect the wires of the network and devices to each other in a certain order in the junction box. Let's consider how to carry out the installation:

It is necessary to prepare a hole in the wall if the socket is internal, or just the place of installation - if the devices are external. Overhead sockets and switches are often used in houses with open wiring, they are easier to install and operate, but have lower safety indicators than standard ones with hidden installation;
By default, the junction box should contain 6 wires - two each from the outlet, the switch and the mains. They are divided into phase and zero. Separately, you need to enter (if any) grounding;
First you need to connect the phase of the network and the switch. They are attached to each other by twisting and fixed with electrical tape;
The neutral wire is directed to the outlet. If you connect the cables in this way, it turns out that the phase is switched - this is very convenient in everyday use;
The neutral wire of the wiring is connected to the neutral cable of the socket.

Photo - connection

Such a combined system works very simply. When the switch is turned on, the phase of the socket is closed and an electric current begins to flow through it. You can connect an extension cord to it, any household appliance, etc. If you turn off the switch, the circuit will open. Of course, if necessary, you can connect the circuit so that each consumer functions independently of each other.

Photo - connection principle

Please note that if you set not the phase wire to break, but zero, then even with the switch turned off, the outlet will be energized. Therefore, electricians do not recommend using such a scheme. This option is also suitable for connecting a plug, lamp and switch, but then the switch will only control one fixture.

Block installation diagram

More and more often, craftsmen are using a more modern option - this is a network system with a switch in one case. The system is very convenient and easy to use. How to install a unit with an outlet and a light switch:

The phase wire is removed from the shield. It needs to be connected to the appropriate pin;
Switches are available with and without interlocking (with protection, they are often used for the bathroom or the street). The next step may vary depending on this. There is a jumper from the phase outlet of the socket, which is combined with the switch terminal. It can be made of various materials and vary in design;
Zero wires are connected to each other;
By default, such consumers are manufactured immediately with grounding. A grounding bus must be connected to the PE screw. Tighten it tightly or simply loop the grounding cable around the head.

Depending on the design, the connection diagram may differ from the one described, so carefully read the installation instructions for the unit.

Photo - connecting multiple consumers

Video: connection diagram of the switch and the socket in the box

Price overview

You can buy a socket with a switch Legrand, Unica Schneider Electric, Viko, Lezard, Gira and others in company stores, the price depends on the type and characteristics. It is very convenient that you can choose the desired block both in terms of the appearance of the frame and in terms of technical parameters. Consider the cost of Legrand Valena:

When purchasing, always check the quality certificate and specifications of the device.

vipmods.ru

How to install a 2 x rocker switch. How to connect a two-button light switch

According to PES 7, the switch must break the phase. In addition, you need to carefully use the backlighting of the keys. Despite the mediocre quality of the video, it is clearly visible that the 95 W LED lamp blinks periodically, despite the fact that the light is off. In this case, the phase is fed to the cartridge, while everything should be the other way around. But the blinking is not caused by this, but by a small leakage current through the backlight spark gap. Some types of bulbs do not flicker, and, looking ahead, we immediately notice that the LED was previously tested in another place during the day and did not make any incomprehensible gestures. Now let's talk about how to connect a two-button light switch correctly.

How to find out more about connecting double push buttons

Before doing anything, we would recommend studying the law. As Kashpirovsky says: God is a set of truths. Simply put, it is the law that rules the universe. And in this case, God himself commanded the rules to be observed. Just look at this inferior video. It clearly shows that the LED lamp periodically blinks, although it should have gone out and wait until the switch contact is closed. It is curious that only this sensitive electronics - in another way a set of semiconductors with a power supply unit does not dare to name the language - reacts to incomprehensible impulses along the power circuit. But the circuit is not closed!

The effect is widely discussed on forums, where some say that this is fiction, while others say about reality. We assume readers have already figured out what this is about: not every LED light bulb flickers. The phenomenon is eliminated by removing the backlight circuit or replacing the switch with another. The incorrect layout of the phase was left, apparently, by the builders thirty years ago. It would have gone unnoticed if the owners had not replaced their illumination system with more economical light bulbs on the occasion of updating their illumination system. Any such effects are certainly harmful, which is why it is so important to break the phase with a switch. Although in a single case, it was possible to detect a problem that can now be solved. But in general, where do such laws come from - for example, about what should be neutralized for a cartridge?

But for this you need to read the regulations. Clause 6.1.36 of the PUE document indirectly speaks about the need to install a switch in the phase circuit. This document was partially approved in 2002 by the Ministry of Energy for execution. For the same reason, the sockets of all new and reconstructed houses are now equipped with a grounding circuit, which was not at all in the old buildings, made according to the TN-C system. Grounding types are discussed, in particular, in the standard 50571.2, which clearly shows how exactly the wires should be laid. In further parts of the same document, some special cases are considered. This will allow you to understand exactly how you need to do the wiring in this or that case.

So the purpose of this review is only to save our readers time. The question is, can we substitute ourselves for the law? No! But on the other hand, we will emphasize in the documents the most important points that must be observed at the mouth

First of all, before choosing and buying, you need to decide what it is - a pass-through switch, what it is for, and what is its difference from the usual one, two and three-key.

A single-key pass-through switch is necessary to control one circuit or line of lighting from several points located in different parts of the room or the whole house. That is, with one switch you turn on the lighting when you enter a room or corridor, and with the other, but at a different point, you turn off the same lighting.

This is very often used in bedrooms. I went into the bedroom, turned on the light near the door. He lay down on the bed and turned off the light at the headboard or near the bedside table.
In two-story mansions, he turned on the light on the first floor, climbed the stairs to the second and turned it off there.

Selection, design and differences of pass-through switches

Before assembling such a control scheme, here are what you should pay special attention to:

1 To connect a pass-through light switch, you need three-core cable - VVGng-Ls 3 * 1.5 or NYM 3 * 1.5mm2

2 Do not try to assemble a similar circuit on conventional switches.

The main difference between conventional and bushing is the number of contacts. Simple one-key ones have two terminals for connecting wires (input and output), and through ones - three!

On simple, the lighting circuit can be either closed or open, there is no third way.

It is more correct to call the checkpoint not a switch, but a switch.

Since he, it is he who switches the circuit from one working contact to another.

In appearance, from the front, they can be exactly the same. Only the pass key can have an icon made of vertical triangles. However, do not confuse them with flip-flops or cross-overs (more on them below). These triangles look in the horizontal direction.

But on the reverse side, the whole difference is immediately visible:

at the feed-through 1 terminal at the top and 2 at the bottom

the usual 1 on top and 1 on the bottom

Many people confuse them with two-key for this parameter. However, two-key ones are also not suitable here, although they also have three terminals.

The essential difference is precisely in the work of contacts. When one contact is closed, the pass-through switches automatically close the other, but there is no such function in two-key switches.

Moreover, there is no intermediate position when both circuits are open at the checkpoint.

Loop-through switch connection

First of all, it is necessary to correctly connect the switch itself in the socket. Take off the key and overhead frames.

In the disassembled state, you can easily see the three contact terminals.

The most important thing is to find a common one. On quality products, a diagram should be drawn on the back. If you understand them, then you can easily navigate through it.

If you have a budget model, or for you any electrical circuits in a dark forest, then an ordinary Chinese tester in the continuity mode, or an indicator screwdriver with a battery, will come to the rescue.

Using the tester's probes, alternately touch all the contacts and look for the one on which the tester will "beep" or show "0" at any position of the ON or OFF key. It is even easier to do this with an indicator screwdriver.

After you have found a common terminal, you need to connect a phase from the power cable to it. Connect the remaining two wires to the remaining terminals.

And which of them where, does not make a significant difference. The switch is assembled and fixed in the socket.

With the second switch, do the same operation:

look for a common terminal

connect a phase conductor to it, which will go to the light bulb

connect the other two cores to the remaining

Wiring diagram for the through-circuit breaker in the junction box

Circuit without grounding conductor

Now the most important thing is to correctly assemble the circuit in the junction box. Four 3-core cables should go into it:

power cable from the switchboard lighting machine

cable for switch No. 1

cable for switch No. 2

cable for a lamp or chandelier

When connecting wires, it is most convenient to orient by color. If you use a three-core VVG cable, then it has two most common color markings:

white (gray) - phase

blue - zero

yellow green - earth

or second option:

White gray)

Brown

black

To find a more correct phasing in the second case, follow the advice from the article ""

1 Assembly starts with neutral conductors.

You connect the zero core from the cable of the input machine and the zero that goes to the luminaire at one point through the terminals of the car.

2 Next, you need to connect all the grounding conductors, if you have a grounding conductor.

Similarly to the neutral wires, connect the "ground" from the input cable with the "ground" of the outgoing cable to the lighting.

This wire connects to the luminaire body.

3 It remains to connect the phase conductors correctly and without errors.

The phase from the input cable must be connected to the phase of the outgoing wire to the common terminal of the pass-through switch No. 1.

And connect the common wire from the pass-through switch No. 2 with a separate wago clamp to the phase conductor of the cable for lighting.

Having completed all these connections, it remains only to connect the secondary (outgoing) wires from the switch No. 1 and No. 2 to each other. And it doesn't matter at all how you connect them.

You can even confuse the colors. But it's better to stick to the color scheme so as not to get confused in the future.

The basic connection rules in this diagram that you need to remember:

the phase from the machine must come to the common conductor of the first switch

and the same phase should come out from the common conductor of the second switch to the light bulb

the other two auxiliary conductors are interconnected in the junction box

zero and ground are supplied directly without switches directly to the bulbs

Rocker switches - lighting control circuit from 3 places

And what if you want to control one lighting from three points or more. That is, there will be 3, 4 switches in the circuit, etc. It would seem that you need to take another pass-through switch and that's it.

However, a three-terminal switch will no longer work here. Since there will be four wires to be connected in the junction box.

Here a rocker switch, or as it is also called a cross, cross, intermediate switch, will come to your aid. Its key difference is that it has four outputs - two at the bottom and two at the top.

And it is installed just in the interval between two checkpoints. Find in the junction box two secondary (non-main) wires from the first and second pass-through switch.

Disconnect them, and connect a cross-over between them. Connect those wires that come from the first - to the input (follow the arrows), and those that go to the second - to the output terminals.

Always check the circuit on the switches! It often happens that the entrance and exit are on the same side (top and bottom). For example, the connection diagram for the Legrand Valena rocker switch:

Naturally, you do not need to push the flip-flop into the junction box itself. It is enough to bring the ends of a 4-core cable from it there. And in the meantime, place the switch itself in any convenient place - near the bed, in the middle of a long corridor, etc. You can turn the light on and off from anywhere.

The main advantage of this circuit is that it can be changed indefinitely and add as many rocker switches as you like. That is, there will always be two checkpoints (at the beginning and end), and in the interval between them there will be 4, 5 or at least 10 cross-over.

Connection errors

Many people make a mistake at the stage of finding and connecting the common terminal in the pass-through switch. Without checking the circuit, they naively believe that the common terminal is the one with only one contact.

They assemble the circuit in this way, and then the switches for some reason do not work correctly (they depend on each other).

Remember that on different switches the common contact can be anywhere!

And it is best to call it, what is called "live", with a tester or indicator screwdriver.

Most often, such a problem is encountered when installing or replacing pass-through switches from different companies. If everything worked before, and after replacing one, the circuit stopped working, then the wires were mixed up.

But there may also be such an option that the new switch is not at all a pass-through. Also remember that the backlight inside the product has no effect on the switching principle itself.

Another common mistake is improper crossover connections. When both wires, from the passage number 1, are planted on the upper contacts, and from number 2 on the lower ones. Meanwhile, with a cross switch, the circuit and switching mechanism are completely different. And you need to connect the wires crosswise.

Flaws

1 The first of the disadvantages of pass-through switches is the lack of a specific position of the ON / OFF button, which is in the usual ones.

If your light bulb burns out and needs to be replaced, with such a scheme it is not immediately possible to understand whether the light is on or off.

It will be unpleasant when, when replaced, the lamp may simply explode in front of your eyes. In this case, the easiest and most reliable way to turn off the automatic lighting in the dashboard.

2 The second drawback is the large number of connections in the junction boxes.

And the more light points you have, the more there will be in the distribution boxes. Connecting the cable directly according to the diagrams without junction boxes reduces the number of connections, but it can significantly increase either the cable consumption or the number of its cores.

If your wiring goes under the ceiling, then you will have to lower the wire from there to each switch, and then lift it back up. The best option here is the use of impulse relays.