Painting of wooden houses. How to paint an old wooden house from the outside Professional painting of wooden houses Moscow region

Services	price, rub.
Painting	90-100 rubles / m2 layer
Surface painting with a 3-layer finishing (maximum protection)	RUB 95
Sanding and painting of roof overhangs and frontal boards in 2 layers	from 450 rubles

Any repair work in a wooden house should be carried out by professionals, because improperly performed work can worsen the condition of the wood, which will affect the condition of the house as a whole. Experts from the "Century House" company have the necessary knowledge and experience in painting houses. Despite our low prices, our employees will professionally and efficiently perform any painting of the walls inside, the facade, as well as the pediments. High-quality painting for an affordable price only in the company! You can find out the prices and speed of painting by calling us at the indicated phone number.

Our experts offer a turnkey painting of your timber structure in the following sequence:

surface preparation for applying special antiseptic solutions and paints and varnishes to it;
impregnation with a special antiseptic solution;
applying a protective coating after painting.

Check the prices with our employees.

Workers-painters from the "Century House" work efficiently according to the ordered service of any complexity. Each client can be sure that the painting of wooden houses will be professional and fast. The extensive experience of our specialists makes it possible to paint a wooden house of any complexity both in large buildings and in small ones, both in new and in old houses that require restoration. Any painting will be done exactly on time and with high quality, and the price of services will pleasantly surprise you.

Cooperation with the company "Century House" provides the following advantages:

We select all the necessary materials and raw materials taking into account the requirements of customers and focusing on the correct choice;
in painting a wooden house, we use the latest technologies and modern equipment;
free consultations of specialists at all stages of work and painting will help our clients decide on the right choice of materials;
affordable cost of painting a wooden house - painting 1 sq. m. the price is 580 rubles.

Why is it necessary to paint wooden houses

Painting can protect the wood from the outside from ultraviolet radiation. A wooden house is externally exposed to prolonged UV radiation, which causes the wood to darken. This is not only an aesthetic drawback, but also a more significant one - such wood loses its properties, becomes susceptible to the effects of mold, mildew, etc.
Painting can reduce hydroscopicity. Externally, when frost occurs, a wooden house freezes over, which leads to microcracks and ruptures of wood fibers. Over time, the tree begins to rot from the inside. (By the way, cement pavement is also afraid of freezing, which leads to the same problems and cement walls).
By painting, you can prevent wood from rotting and prevent various bugs from developing and winding up inside wooden walls.

But in order for the painting to be beneficial, not harm, the building is carefully examined from the outside by specialists, who will then select the right materials. Requirements for varnishes and paints:

so that the painting protects the wooden house externally from ultraviolet exposure (impermeability);
so that the painting provides the wooden house with externally hydrophobicity;
so that the wooden house externally acquires steam and airtightness of the coating.

The main advantage in painting wooden houses made of wood is natural ventilation. In such houses, even in winter with tightly closed windows, it is easy to breathe. This feature of all wooden houses, since the air exchange is carried out thanks to the walls made of wood. There is a very important rule that you need to know: the vapor permeability of wood should not increase. If this happens, then moisture, instead of leaving the house outside, will accumulate in the walls of the houses. This, in turn, will lead to the fact that the wood loses its heat-insulating properties and begins to rot.

Painting houses

On the basis of what features are selected paints and varnishes for the house, we talked. Now let's look at specific cases of how to paint on wood. A wooden house does not always look the same on the outside as it does on the inside.

Painting wooden houses

A new house, built of rounded timber or lumber, looks very nice and is very practical. But in order to preserve the dignity and appearance of the house as long as possible, the wood must be covered with a special coating based on a transparent composition. Modern manufacturers today offer the following types of coatings for painting a wooden house:

The outside of the wooden house must be impregnated after construction. Impregnations based on oil-wax compositions deeply impregnate the wood at home and do not form a film on its surface. Such wood becomes hydrophobic and retains excellent vapor permeability properties.
Water-dispersive varnishes based on acrylic resins. Such painting of houses, in terms of price and quality, is the best solution. They retain the properties of vapor permeability of the wood of the house, perfectly protects it from the effects of ultraviolet radiation and negative weather and climatic conditions. In addition, such a coating dries quickly and has a long service life. Varnishes are diluted with water and therefore they are odorless and are not at all hazardous to human health.

It must be remembered that it is necessary to treat wood with impregnation every 3 years. This is necessary because oils are volatile, although they evaporate much more slowly compared to water.

Before you start treating the wood at home with impregnation, you must apply an antiseptic solution.

The coating is applied as follows:

First you need to clean the walls from dust and dirt. Then the bar must be sanded. Such painting of wooden houses by hand is quite difficult; it is desirable to use a grinding machine.
Application of varnish using a long nap roller or a wide brush for this purpose. The varnish is applied in two layers (at least sometimes there are more layers). After one layer has been applied, re-sanding is necessary.

Painting a wooden house, the wood of which has turned black from atmospheric and climatic conditions, as well as sunlight, is somewhat problematic. This type of work has different prices, taking into account the materials and time spent.

Painting of houses will take place in several stages, if no special work with wood has been done in the house for many years. There is a possibility that in some places the wood has become so unusable that it will no longer be possible to restore it. Even if the tree is not particularly damaged, painting the houses will be quite difficult, because even the highest quality paint will crumble on such wood. Applying clear coatings to black old wood, from the point of view of aesthetics, will not look very attractive, and paint cracks will not work.

But there is great news - if the wood of a wooden house is not rotten, it can still be strengthened and ennobled by using painting.

Darkened wood is perfectly bleached thanks to the use of special bleaching agents designed for wood (Senezh Effeo). If the prices are too high for you, you can use regular whiteness.
Mold is perfectly destroyed with special antiseptic solutions. Mold must be removed before painting.
Cracks can be repaired with ordinary acrylic-based façade putty. It perfectly evens the surface, but it should be remembered that for transparent coatings it is necessary to choose a putty tinted to match the color of the wood.
With the help of a special facade primer, wood can be significantly strengthened (Proacryl-Primer is intended not only for wood, but also for concrete, plasterboard and gypsum surfaces).

Order surface painting at a bargain price! (Graduation of prices depends on the area of the house and the number of rooms, as well as on the state of the surface). The beauty of a wooden house, the price is affordable, the quality is excellent, the guarantee is long-term - all this is the offer of our company.

Specify the prices for our work and the questions you are interested in by calling the phone number indicated on the website. Our experts will gladly answer your call!

Painting your home isn't just about creating a proper exterior. Correctly executed painting work will allow you to protect your home from the harmful effects of wind, water and other harmful weather conditions. In addition to the time and money invested in your home, you will need to get the job done carefully using the finest materials. This will extend the period of time after which the house will need to be painted again. Although you have a long job ahead of you, go over the tips below on how to paint your home. Just start at Step 1.

Steps

Part 1

Preparing the house for painting

Pick the right time of year. It is imperative to consider the time of year when you intend to paint your home, as very cold (below 4 degrees Celsius) or very hot conditions are unacceptable when painting.

Therefore, the best time to paint your home is late spring or early autumn. You should also check the weather forecast so that rain doesn't ruin your plans.

Clean the surface of your home. With any luck, the only preparation for painting will be cleaning the surface of the house. Use a hose to scrub the dirt off the walls, then use a wire brush (also use warm soapy water) to brush the surface of the house.
- Alternatively, use a washer to remove dirt and old paint. Just be careful not to set the jet too strong so as not to damage the surface of the house.
- Remember to wash the house from top to bottom and give the surface enough time to dry before starting painting.
Remove old paint. If old, peeling paint remains on the house, you need to remove it from the surface before proceeding to painting. You need to remove any lagging, bubbly, or flaky pieces of paint.
- Removing the old paint will allow the new paint to adhere strongly enough to the surface of the house.
- Use a wire brush or putty knife to scrape off old paint from the surface of the house, then use a sander (or sandpaper wrapped around a block of wood) to smooth out any unevenness.
- If there are large chunks of old paint left on the surface of the house, you will need a paint stripper to melt it and remove it from the wall.
Make necessary repairs. Before you start painting, you need to inspect the house and check for any damage, if necessary, repair. This may sound daunting, but it will give your home a proper look after painting.

Find out how much paint you need. It's a good idea to think about how much paint you need. before start of work. This will avoid a situation where the paint runs out and half of the house is not painted yet.
- To calculate how much paint you need, find out what the perimeter of the house and its height (excluding the roof) are and multiply these parameters.
- Divide the resulting number by the square meters of surface indicated on the paint can you plan to use. This will give you an idea of how many liters of paint you will need. However, it is better to prepare the paint with a margin.
- To calculate the amount of paint needed to paint a roof, calculate its width and height, multiply these figures and divide by 2. This will figure out the area of your roof in square meters, and then you can include this figure in the calculation of the amount of paint.
- Note that some surfaces, such as shingles, masonry and plaster, can take 10-15% more paint than smooth, flat walls of the same size.
- The method of applying paint affects the amount of material used - using a spray gun, you use twice as much paint as when painting with a brush or roller.
Primer the surface. In some cases, you will need to apply a coat of primer to the surface of your home before you start painting. The primer provides a suitable base for the paint and will help it last longer, and it additionally protects the surface of the house from harmful environmental influences.
- You will need to apply primer to certain damaged areas, especially if you find areas of damp wood, bare metal during the prep work, or if you have removed too much old paint and damaged the surface.
- You will also need to use a primer if you are painting new boards or if you want to change the color of your home.
- The type of primer depends on the type of paint you intend to use. If you are using latex paint, you will need a latex primer. If you are using solvent-thinned paint, you will need a solvent-thinned primer, and if using metal-based paint, you will need a metal-based primer.
Choose paint. Look for a high quality outdoor paint such as 100% acrylic latex. This paint has a better color, it dries faster and lasts longer.

Mix the paint. If you bought multiple cans of paint, you will need to mix them in one large container.
- This must be done because different batches of paint may differ slightly from each other, even if it seems to you that they are absolutely identical. By mixing them, you will definitely get one color.
- However, it's best not to throw away paint cans. That way, if you have any paint left over after finishing work, you can pour it into jars and seal.
- At this point, you need to put a protective film around your home to keep paint out of the walkways or lawn.
Part 2
House painting
1. Choose a paint application method. Ultimately, whether you use a paintbrush, roller or spray gun to paint is a matter of taste. Each method has its own advantages - with a brush you have maximum control over the painting process, a roller for efficient work, and using a spray gun will help you cover a large area.
  - Using the brush: Many people who are painting their home for the first time prefer to use a brush, as this forces you to be more meticulous and allows you to control the process at each section. How to do it: Dip the brush into the paint until the bristles are half-dipped in it. Touch the brush in several places on the wall, keeping a horizontal line. Brush back and forth to fill in any unpainted areas and distribute the paint evenly over the surface.
  - Roller use: If using a roller, roll it over the paint until all sides are evenly painted, then apply the paint to the wall surface in a crisscross pattern. After that, go back to the area you started and paint over it by moving the roller up and down to fill in the empty spaces.
  - Using the sprayer: To use a spray gun, first load paint into it. Keep it straight, 30 cm from the wall. Move the spray back and forth, while starting the movement first and then pulling the trigger - this will prevent the appearance of extremely shaded areas. Provide an overlap of the next layer on the previous one by 20 cm.
  - Using the spray + roller technique: The spray + roller technique provides a high speed of painting and an even distribution of paint over the surface, but this requires the participation of two people. The first person quickly applies the paint with a spray, and the other evenly spreads it with a roller.
2. Siding painting. Paint all the siding on your home before tackling the planks. This makes your work easier and speeds up the whole process, since you do not need to change colors. When you paint siding (or any material that covers most of your home's surface), there are a few guidelines to follow:
3. Apply a second coat. Once the recommended amount of time has passed for the surface to dry completely, you should apply a second coat - if time and budget allows.
  - The second layer is not so much a paint as it is a protective layer for your home. It will provide a flawless look and safety to your home.
  - If you have chosen the brightest color for your home, a second coat is all the more necessary - it will really liven up the look of your home.
  - spray gun
  - glasses and mask
  - When using a spray gun, wear safety goggles and a mask to protect yourself from the harmful effects of harmful paint fumes. Make sure that windows, doors, and any other surfaces that you do not plan to paint are covered so as not to accidentally paint them. Move any cars away from the painting area. Make sure there is no wind and notify neighbors when you are going to paint the house.
  - You will need a ladder to paint a multi-story building or the top of the wall of a one-story home.

Introduction

A seemingly simple question, if you do not take into account the pitfalls that make themselves felt over time.

Wooden houses in Russia have been built since ancient times, because wood is an excellent building material and has many beneficial properties. It has low thermal conductivity and perfectly retains heat, so in wooden houses you can successfully save on heating.

If we take a log and brick wall of the same thickness, then the thermal insulation indicators of the first will be several times higher. This can be explained simply: wooden walls have the ability to accumulate heat and distribute it evenly throughout the house, so in summer it is cool in wooden houses and warm in winter. For many years, wood retains its operational qualities and is a durable material. It has the ability to perfectly distribute the level of humidity inside the room and remove water vapor to the outside, which eliminates the phenomenon of condensation.

In wooden houses there is a unique atmosphere of comfort and warmth, therefore living in wooden houses has a beneficial effect on the well-being of a person, and the health problems habitual for a city dweller recede. In addition, the tree has a unique natural beauty that delights and pacifies the human eye. And this is also one of the reasons why wooden houses are built. The facade of a wooden house speaks of the status of its owner. In addition, the house is a valuable property and a significant investment, and the beautiful and attractive appearance gives the wooden house additional value.

How and what is the correct way to paint a wooden house (outside)? Part 1.

Negative loads experienced by a tree during operation

Wood, as a living and natural material, is highly susceptible to aging. The aging and decay of wood depends on many factors, but the main enemies of wood are UV radiation, water and moisture, and fungi.

Sunlight together with water, temperature, oxygen and other external influences (dust, dirt, fungi, sulfur compounds) destroys the surface of the wood, as a result of which it turns gray and becomes rough, and its fibers stand upright. Such a surface is easily contaminated. Moreover, such changes can be seen literally within a few weeks.

Water first causes the wood to swell, which, when dry, creates a stress state that eventually leads to cracking. In addition, water stimulates humidity, and humidity, in turn, especially at elevated temperatures, causes the growth of blue, mold and rot fungi. Molds grow only on the surface as dark spots and have a heavy and unpleasant odor. And blue fungi grow in wood fiber and "paint" its surface brown, blue-gray or almost black.

Fungi of blue and mold (in the photo on the left) do not destroy wood and do not reduce its strength, but cause only aesthetic harm, making the surface look ugly. But rot fungi (photo on the right) are already destroying the wood and causing structural damage inside it. They can destroy the cells of the wood from the inside and corrode the cellulose, as a result of which the strength of the wood is significantly impaired and the wood becomes unusable.

We should also not forget about the bark beetles (pictured), which creep out after a 2-3-year larval stage. In addition to all this, it must be borne in mind that atmospheric loads on a wooden surface in the coastal zone and in open spaces are especially high, and on the southern and western sides of buildings they are five times greater than on the northern ones. Thus, by carefully studying the causes of negative effects on the tree, we can better eliminate them and resist them.

How and what is the correct way to paint a wooden house (outside)? Part 2.

New wood surfaces

In this article, we will mainly refer to paints and varnishes. Tikkurils , since this company has long been engaged in the production of paint and varnish materials, it has its own large research and development center, equipped with modern equipment for the manufacture and testing of products in a variety of conditions, which means it has a lot of practical experience. They have established themselves as real professionals, therefore, for painting a wooden house outside, we recommend using the products of this company, the price of which is presented inprice list on our website. We have our own paint shop, where you can buy everything you need.

Preliminary surface preparation

The preliminary preparation of the surface has an important effect on the final result, and in no case should it be neglected. Careful treatment of the area to be painted improves the adhesion of the paint to the surface, thus significantly increasing the life of the finished coating.

First, remove dust and foreign matter from the surface. This is best done by rinsing the surface with water using a garden sprayer and a brush. water collects dust better. If there are already moldy and blue areas on the surface, then they needtreat with the following wood bleaches: Fongifluid, Sagus, Senezh Effeo, Neomid 500, Homeenpoistoand then rinse thoroughly with water. If there is resin in the knots (this is typical of conifers), then you need to remove it with a metal spatula, and then cover it with knot varnish Oksalakka... Nail heads and other metal parts need to be coated anti-corrosion primer for metalRostex Super... For other types of anti-corrosion primers, see.

It is good to leave the surface prepared in this way to dry for one to two weeks, covering it with plastic wrap (in warm weather, do not forget to open the film) and at the same time leave room for ventilation. By the way, if there is a suspicion that the tree is not completely dry, then let us dry it for at least a month, covering it with a curtain of film in rainy weather, and removing this curtain in dry weather. If there is no way at all to dry the tree, then we will cover it as it is with a tinted primer antisepticValtti Pohjuste or Euro Wood Primerand we will leave until better times when it will be possible to dry the tree.

Color selection

Now let's move on to the question: “ What color to paint a wooden house ? ”. The question is extremely important, because the appearance of the house depends on it, which will, accordingly, please or grieve us. Therefore, you need to approach this issue as responsibly as possible. Realizing the importance of the issue, we offer our customers in the store samples of flowers painted on wood. In our opinion, this is the most practical and painless solution to the question: “ What color to paint the house ?”

For greater reliability, we even offer for 200 rubles. (for glazing antiseptics) make a sample (0.9 liter can), which you can slowly paint at home on an unnecessary board, then calmly evaluate the color and make a decision. In addition, in the store, we offer free advice on choosing the color of the house, so that it matches the color of the roof, windows, doors, gutters and other details of the house, as well as with the surrounding landscape.

Choice of paint

Now we have come close to painting. But with the modern choice of paints and varnishes and all kinds of flashy advertising, we are simply lost. Here you need to draw the attention of readers to one important point. The sphere of development of paints and varnishes for wood protection is inactive. The process of developing constructively new paints is extremely slow (apparently, product testing takes a lot of time). Tikkurila, for example, has oil f ink painthas been produced for over 75 years, and the opaque antisepticVinha- over 30 years. This is said so that you know - any bright advertisement for new products from little-known manufacturers, to put it mildly, is disingenuous, promising an incredibly long service life of the paint.

To protect wooden surfaces outside, the company offers several main types of coatings: glazing and top antiseptics, oil and acrylate paints. What to choose?

Antiseptics penetrate the wood to a depth of several millimeters and protect the wood surface from atmospheric stress, rot, mold and blue. Antiseptics are glaze (translucent) and topcoat (opaque). Glazing (translucent) antiseptics preserve the wood texture well and at the same time give the wood a certain color shade, they preserve the beauty and pattern of the wood better than other paintwork materials. Glaze antiseptics include: Valtti Color, Valtti Color Satin, Valtti Color Extra, Valtti Aquacolor. In addition to Tikkurila products, we can offer analogs from other manufacturers. These are Pinotex Ultra and Pinotex Classic and (service life 12 years), Belinka Exterior, Belinka Toplazur Mix, Belinka Toplasur, Belinka Toplasur UV Plus, Belinka Lazur. Covering (opaque) antiseptics completely cover the texture of the wood, while preserving the visible relief of the wooden surface, Vinha belongs to them.

Oil paints are well absorbed into wood and have excellent weather resistance, they are good at preventing water penetration into wood, but they dry slowly (from seven hours to a day or more). In addition, slow matting and discoloration are characteristic of oil paints over time, which is especially noticeable in bright and dark shades of paint. Tikkurila's oil paints include dyeTejo .

Acrylate paints are extremely weather resistant. They, in comparison with oil paints, retain their color and shine much better and, in addition, have good vapor permeability (breathe well). The acrylate present in the paints gives them excellent elasticity. Acrylate paints live in rhythm with the deformation of the wood and do not crack. Acrylate paints include Tikkurila paintsPica-Tejo and Ultra.

Service life of glazing antiseptics, oil and acrylate paints

As for the service life, let's say that the average service life (after which it is recommended to renew the surface):

For glazing (translucent) antiseptics it is 3-5 years. Although one of our acquaintances who went to study in Finland at the plant Tikkurils, told that they had Valtti Color served for 23 years. It is possible (not a fact) that there are some artificial or special conditions here, but in any case, it is better for us to conduct a "technical inspection" of the state of the wooden surface ourselves every year and, on its basis, decide whether we should paint it again or not worth it.
For covering antiseptics - 5-7 years.
For oil paints - 5-6 years.
For acrylate paints - from 7 to 10 years.

Wood varnish coating technology

Regarding the technology of applying paint and varnish coating to wood, let's say the following: many well-known manufacturers of paints for protecting wood from the outside have the technology of applying paint and varnish coating to wood in two stages. The first stage is the application of an antiseptic primer. An antiseptic primer plays an important role in protecting wood, it significantly slows down the effects of moisture, rot fungi, blue stain and mold. The neglect of priming with such an antiseptic leads to global consequences, the service life of the entire paintwork is significantly reduced. The second stage is the application of a topcoat, which can be used as glazing and topcoating antiseptics, oil and acrylate paints.

So, when our surface is prepared, we apply one layer of a primer antisepticValtti Pohjuste or primers for woodBelinka base (Belinka) and then, when the surface is dry (usually the next day), apply 2-3 coats of topcoat or antiseptic, thoroughly drying each coat.

At the same time, if you follow a few simple tips, then the service life of the coating we apply will be maximum, and the appearance of the house will delight us for a long time:

mix the paint thoroughly before and during painting, otherwise the gloss and color of the paint coat on the surface may be uneven;
do a test painting on a small area of an unnecessary board and check the correctness of the chosen color;
it is best to paint with a brush, because this is the highest quality painting method. At the same time, try not to apply too thick layers, because you risk getting uneven color and shine on the painted surface;
if possible, tint the primer in the color closest to the future coating;
no need to paint in direct sunlight, this will lead to undesirable rapid drying. Therefore, do not paint in hot and bright sunny weather, or if precipitation is expected (rain, dew). The most favorable weather for painting is cloudy, calm and warm;
always apply paint and antiseptic in the longitudinal direction;
the ends of boards and logs are the weakest points, through which water is especially easily and quickly absorbed into the wood, so they must be especially carefully covered with several layers of both primer and coating material.

How and what is the correct way to paint a wooden house (outside)?Part 3.

Previously painted wood surfaces

If we see that the previously painted surface has faded, has a faded appearance, has become moldy, the paint peels off on it, there are other similar flaws, then it is time to think about updating the l / c coating. A new coat of paint will significantly improve the appearance of the house, and at the same time, you can also change the color of the facade itself.

But, before proceeding with the repair, we must decide for ourselves what we want to get as a result? Indeed, often the very condition of the wooden surface limits us in the choice of paint. It is worth thinking about repairing not the entire facade, but its individual parts, for example, the southern and western walls of the facade, which experience the greatest atmospheric loads and, accordingly, more often need repair than other walls. Sometimes a good solution is selective repair of individual places or high-quality repair of one (the most worn out) wall, with the intention of repairing other walls in the next season.

If the wooden facade is in good technical condition and does not have gross structural defects and damage, it can be simply renewed by repainting it in the same or a different color. In case of repainting, when choosing a new paint, it is better to adhere to this rule: for re-painting, use the same paint or the same type of paint that was previously painted on the surface. If we do not know what paint the surface was previously painted with, then we will try to determine the type of previously applied paint ourselves.

How to determine the type of paint a house has been painted with

The types of paints can be identified visually. Acrylate paint has a leathery surface, it chalk less and later than oil paint. Acrylate paint usually cracks in the direction of the wood grain, and oil paint has a checkered or transverse cracking in the direction of the wood grain. You can do a simple experiment, try to roll a small piece of paint into a roll. If the l / c film remains intact, then usually this means acrylate paint, and if the film breaks with a bang, then it is most likely oil paint.

Glazing antiseptics also wear out over time and their film becomes thinner. If we see a glossy film of an antiseptic, then the surface can be repainted with the same antiseptic of a more saturated or darker color or with an oil-based paint. If the antiseptic is completely faded and does not form a film, then the surface to be coated can also be painted with acrylate paint.

We paint the old surface covered with oil paint with oil paint or acrylate paint (after cleaning the surface with a metal brush to wood). We paint the surface covered with acrylate paint with acrylate paint or, if you really want, oil paint (after cleaning the surface with a metal brush to wood).

Preparation of a wooden surface for painting

During the repair, preliminary preparation is important, how carefully it will be carried out, the better and longer the covered l / c coating will last. In such cases, the normally painted surface is cleaned of hanging scraps of old paint, dust, dirt, tar and foreign matter with a brush or scraper and rinsed with water. Mold is removed with a mold remover solutionHomeenpoisto.For better adhesion of the paint on the surface, it is recommended to degrease the surface with alkaline detergents.

Old boarding, as well as rotten, crooked and cracked boards must be replaced with new ones. If you need to remove old paint, then remove it mechanically (by sandblasting, scraper or metal brush) or chemically (using a paint remover gel). The chemical removal of the l / c coating preserves the texture of the wood better, but the chemical removal process itself is difficult and slow. To use it on large areas (in this case, facades), you need to be very patient.

Chemical removal of old paint is used only when a very thorough cleaning of the surface is required or the condition of the wood is such that it does not withstand sandblasting. However, the end result of chemical removal is extremely excellent. In addition, it is imperative to do a trial removal of old paint. If you need to grind, then grind the wood. Further, we simply act according to the above plan. If we do everything as expected, we will get a good facade coating that will serve us for many years.

Painting a wooden house outside. Summary

We cannot unequivocally say that this paint or that one is the best, since in the store we regularly hear complaints from customers about the most seemingly excellent paints: Tikkurila, Belinka, Pinotex, etc. ... Unpredictable. Maybe it depends on the area where the houses are located, maybe from improper application and non-compliance with the painting technology, maybe from something else. In our opinion, the best thing in this situation would be to consult with neighbors in the country, or at work, or on the landing. Find out what they painted and their impressions and recommendations. From 2013 sales experience, our store sold the mostTikkurila colors(apparently, this is due to the trust in Finnish quality), then there are salesPinotex, and in third place -Belinka.

If you need urgent advice from a specialist in choosing a suitable paint, you can contact the store administrator using the Online Consultant. Same:

How much wall paint do you need?

What paint to paint the house?

To choose the right paint, read the previous page for painting your home outside.

It is quite possible to paint the facade on your own, you only need time, knowledge and patience.

On the paint packaging there is always information about the paint consumption. Usually, the specific consumption of facade paint is indicated - the number of liters (kg) that will need to be consumed for painting 1 m 2 facade in one layer, l / m 2.

Sometimes, on the packaging of facade paint, the reciprocal of the consumption is indicated - the surface area that can be painted with 1 liter of paint, m 2 / l.

Usually indicate paint consumption in a certain interval, for example: flow rate 0.1 - 0.25 l / m 2... Here, a lower consumption value is for smooth primed surfaces, and a larger value is for rough, textured unprimed facades.

On the websites of paint manufacturers and sellers, you can find calculators for calculating the amount of the selected paint depending on the area of the facade of the house to be painted, on the number of layers and the roughness of the surface to be painted. Facade paint is usually applied in two layers.

To paint a house outside, the amount of paint is determined by multiplying the area of the painted surface - m 2, specific consumption - l / m 2, number of layers - 2, safety factor - 1.1. A safety factor of 10% is necessary to avoid an unpleasant situation when there is almost not enough paint at the end of the work.

How to prepare the walls of the house for painting?

The quality and durability of painting the outside of a house to a very large extent depends on the correct preparation of the wall surface.

The substrate on which the paint will be applied must be dense, durable and primed.

Preparing for painting the old walls of the house

Improving the condition of the base is usually always necessary before painting the old walls of the house.

Old wall before painting must be cleaned of dust, mold, moss and easily peeling layers of old coatings... The best way to do this is to flush the wall with a pressure washer, such as a car wash. Or you can wipe the entire surface of the wall with a stiff brush, but this option is more time consuming. It is better to use both methods; after washing, brush only areas of intense dirt.

Places of accumulation of mold, moss, after their removal, must be treated with a liquid bioprotective agent. Otherwise, parts of these biological substances may remain in the thickness of the wall covering, which will quickly grow through the new paint.

Then, the plastered surfaces are repaired, cracks are closed, places with peeling plaster. Old paint on the facade should not flake off and dust. Areas with peeling paint are cleaned, primed and covered with an additional layer of new paint.

If the old paint is damaged over a large area, it is better to remove it from the entire surface of the wall. It is convenient to use a sandblaster to remove old paint.

How to determine the strength of the surface of the painted wall?

For this a large enough piece of transparent stationery tape is glued to the wall and a minute later, with a sharp movement, they tear it off the wall. If, together with the tape, the pieces of the base have not come off the wall, then such a wall can be primed and painted. Otherwise, the surface of the wall should be cleaned by removing the old paint.

Preparing to paint the facade of a new house

The plastered facades of the new houses are quite durable. Preparing the facade for painting a new house outside comes down to the following steps:

It is imperative to dry the freshly plastered facade for at least 30 - 60 days. The wall should be completely dry.
Apply a primer to the wall of the house.

Not plastered silicate brick facades can be covered with a special colorless protective compound, or you can simply paint it with facade paint. In any case, the surface of the wall is primed.

Facades from facing ceramic bricks usually do not paint.

New walls made of ordinary ceramic bricks it is better to paint in the first two years, before efflorescence appears on them.

Priming the walls of the house outside

The primer allows:

strengthen the dusty base;
to increase the adhesion (adhesion) of the paint to the base;
reduce water absorption of the coating;
reduce the consumption of facade paint.

Facade paint spreads more easily over the primed surface, and its consumption is noticeably reduced.

The quality of painting the facade of the house can be improved if tint the primer to match, close to the color of the facade paint.

As a primer sometimes use facade paint diluted with water in a 1: 1 ratio.

The primer is applied to the wall surface in the same way as the paint. Before painting, the primer must be allowed to dry completely for at least a day.

How long does the paint dry?

Most facade paints dry completely and create a durable finish in 24 hours after being applied to the wall.

The second coat of paint can usually be applied earlier without waiting for the first coat to dry completely. Information on the length of the period after which the second coat of paint can be applied is contained on the paint package.

How to apply paint?

Facades are most often painted with a roller, brush or spray gun.

The choice of tool is determined by the consistency (viscosity) of the paint, the texture of the surface to be painted and the qualifications of the workers.

Walls smooth surface paint with a brush or short-haired roller. It is more convenient and faster to paint with a roller than with a brush, moreover, less paint is consumed.

When painting walls with textured surface or directly on the brick, use a wide brush with long bristles.

You can paint walls of any texture with a spray gun, both smooth and embossed. Spray gun painting at home requires higher qualifications and experience with this spray gun. It is necessary to choose the correct viscosity of the paint, select the nozzles for the spray gun of the apparatus. It also requires a practical skill of uniformly applying paint to the wall surface. It is better to entrust painting the house with a spray gun to specialists.

In the case of using special high viscosity textured paints with filler, to apply paint to the facade, in addition to the above tools, they also use a spatula.

We paint the house outside

Painting the house outside you can do it yourself by following these recommendations:

Facade painting work must be planned by reviewing the weather forecast. On rainy, windy days or at temperatures below +5 o C it is better not to paint the facade.
The surfaces to be painted must be be sure to prime... For applying the primer to the wall, use the same methods as for applying paint (see above).
Before starting work, all non-paintable parts of the facade (windows, doors, slopes, plinth, blind area, etc.) are protected with plastic wrap.
Painting work is performed in dry weather in the absence of strong winds. The outside temperature must be within the operating range indicated on the facade paint packaging. Check the weather forecast before starting work.
Install scaffolding or scaffolding to paint the facade at a height. Paint the facade from the stairs it is not convenient and dangerous.
A layer of paint is applied to one wall of the house without making long breaks in work. If you paint a part of the wall the next day, then stains will remain on the wall - places with a different shade of paint.
The second layer of paint is applied after a break, not earlier than indicated by the manufacturer on the paint package.
To avoid washing the roller or brush before each break in work, wrap the tool in a plastic bag - the paint will not dry out.

The paint is distributed by moving the roller or brush in different directions alternately - vertically, horizontally and diagonally.

How to store paints?

The paint package should be protected from direct sunlight and frost. The paint should be stored at temperatures from +5 to + 25 ° C in a tightly closed package. The paint that is stored under these conditions remains usable even after the expiration date printed on the packaging.

If the paint has stratified during storage, mix it thoroughly with a mixer - an attachment on an electric drill, and the paint will become usable again.

What color to paint the facade of the house

When choosing the color of the facade walls are guided by the following basic rules:

1. The color of the walls of the facade of the house should be different from the color of the roof.

2. The color of the painting should be in harmony with natural and other non-paintable materials with which the facade is finished: brick, natural stone, tiles, panels, etc.

3. Different architectural elements on the facade are distinguished by color: the front door, windows, shutters, cornices, cladding, etc.

4. In the absence of contrast in the color scheme, the facade, as a rule, looks dull and not attractive.

In the photo, the main color of the wall painting is combined with the color of the natural stone on the facade.

Smaller elements of the facade are highlighted in light beige paint. A warm light tone against the background of a thick dark color scheme of the wall softens and makes the color range pleasing to the eye, successfully decorates the facade.

The color accent on the front facade, as a rule, is made at the entrance to the house, the front door.

In this photo, the wall of the first floor of the house is made of unpainted clay brick. The color scheme of the upper floor facade was chosen so as to visually reduce its volume and make the lower level more significant.

Facade paint in your city

Facade building paint for exterior works

Regular inspection and elimination of any defects will ensure the longevity of the façade. After each winter, it is worth checking the condition of the plaster and paint layer. Here are some basic tips for maintaining and repairing them.

The most common are damage caused by deformations of the base of the plaster or paint layer, as well as mechanical damage and damage associated with leaching of the plaster by rainwater during leaks. Only after the causes of the damage have been eliminated can the repair of the damaged areas begin.

Well-made decorative thin-layer plasters applied to thermal insulation usually do not require any kind of repair for many years.

Regular inspection and cleaning of the façade is the primary means of maintaining the façade.

Even small leaks, if they are not eliminated for a long time, over time, can lead to significant damage not only to the paint, but also to the plaster layers. If you react quickly, it is enough to restore only the color. It is necessary to eliminate the cause of the leaks, let the wall dry and carry out repairs.

Green algae on the facade - how to prevent and remove

Green algae on the wall always indicates high humidity, which encourages algae growth.

Houses located near forests and parks, in areas with high humidity (near water bodies), are especially vulnerable to biological pollution. Mainly only the northern and western walls are affected by the green invasion. This is due to the fact that the winds from the west blow more often, and rain falls on the walls from these directions, and the sun is less frequent in these places. Algae and fungus spores thrive on wet surfaces, and on the southern walls, the sun dries out the façade.

It is enough to disinfect walls with a low degree of contamination with a preparation to combat microorganisms, and then rinse with water under pressure. If, after disinfection, traces of algae remain, then it will be necessary to restore the color - paint the facade with paint with biocides.

It should be remembered that most biocides are active for three to five years. After this time, in areas particularly susceptible to microbial contamination, the facades must be re-protected by spraying the product. I do not know of any means of providing long-term, permanent protection against algae.

Despite the modern abundance of various building materials, wooden houses remain traditional for almost all regions of Russia. From time immemorial, their log cabins were erected in both urban and rural areas. Nowadays, the possibilities of using wood have expanded significantly - today, processed timber is widely used for the construction of residential buildings, frame structures made of lumber and plywood or chipboard are used ().

When purchasing one of the protective solutions on sale in a fairly wide range, you need to pay attention to the packaging label (label). It must necessarily indicate the area of its application, that is, for internal or external work, a specific composition is intended.

Protective compounds are transparent, keeping the texture of the wood completely open or giving it a glossy brightness or a soft matte finish. However, there are also tinting solutions that make the material one or more shades darker.

There are several types of different solutions that can be designed to protect against various negative effects on wood - these are conventional and bio-moisture-protective antiseptics, fire retardants, bleaching and priming compounds. To understand how they differ, it is advisable to consider each of them. This will make it easier to make the right choice.

Wood preservative prices

antiseptic

Antiseptic solutions are designed to combat fungus and mold that have appeared on wooden surfaces, as well as to prevent the formation of new formations. These compositions, in turn, are also subdivided according to different criteria.

So, on sale you can find two types of antiseptics - these are impregnations and coatings:

— Impregnations are designed for deep penetration into the wood structure. When purchasing this version of the solution, it is necessary to carefully study its composition, since some of these processing agents are very toxic;

— Coating solutions create a film on the wood surface and protect it from moisture. They are especially relevant for covering walls in rooms with high humidity, for example, in a bathroom or a bath.

Antiseptic solutions are produced on different bases, and according to this criterion they are divided into the following:

- Water-soluble compounds are environmentally friendly, therefore they are excellent for treating walls indoors. They are usually used for water-based paints. A significant disadvantage of such antiseptics is that over time, their protective qualities decrease.

- antiseptics made on an organic basis have high protective properties. However, they are more suitable for the facades of wooden houses, since they contain toxic constituents in their composition, and are also unsafe in terms of flammability during application and before drying.

- Oil solutions of antiseptics are most often used for facade surfaces, wooden cladding of a balcony or loggia, especially if the house is located in a region with a harsh climate.

- Combined solutions, consisting of oil and high-carbon components, are used to treat both external and internal wooden surfaces. Moreover, they are also suitable for rooms with high humidity, providing their surfaces with high-quality protection.

The last option of antiseptics is the most expensive, since, in fact, it becomes a universal tool used in all areas of construction and decoration.

Bio-moisture protective antiseptics are used as an effective measure of protection against fungi, mold and insects harmful to wood. This type of antiseptic creates a protective barrier on the surface of the tree and also serves as a decorative coating. Therefore, the bio-moisture protective solution can be called universal, since it performs two functions at once.

Thanks to these properties of the antiseptic, not only money will be saved, but also time for staining. It is these solutions that are in high demand among the owners of wooden houses.

Fire retardants are used to give wood a higher resistance to fire, that is, a material treated with such a composition is able to withstand the effects of open fire for a long time without igniting.

Fire retardants are divided into two groups according to their reaction to fire exposure:

- One group of solutions contains salts, due to which, when exposed to high temperatures, gases are released that can prevent rapid combustion.

- The second group of fire retardants blocks the flame by foaming, which occurs when wood is heated to elevated temperatures and creates a protective coating on it.

More effective fire retardants, according to experts, are those that contain sodium salts, as well as orthophosphoric, pyrophosphoric and tripolyphosphoric acids.

Biopyrens impregnations that combine the functions of both a fire retardant and an antiseptic are called. Similar solutions can be used to treat walls from the inside and outside.

Due to the fact that this tool is a complex consisting of all the components necessary for protecting wood, using it, you can save a certain amount, time for carrying out work and waiting for the layers of several different solutions to dry. So the costs are likely to be justified.

Biopyrene prices

biopyrene

Primer on wood is another effective protective agent with which preparatory work is carried out before painting. These solutions are not only designed to prevent various destructive manifestations and effects for wood, they also create a good adhesion between the surface of the wooden wall and the applied decorative layer. Waterborne wood primers can be transparent, translucent and opaque. According to this criterion, they are selected depending on what effect is planned to be obtained as a result.

For example, if it is planned to paint the primed walls with a thick layer of paint, it does not matter which primer to cover the wood with in terms of transparency. In this case, rather, it is necessary to take into account only the fact that an opaque version of the soil will give a smoother surface. Transparent compounds work as an impregnation, penetrating into the structure of the material and filling its pores, but they do not have the property of creating a protective layer on the surface of the wood.

However, whichever primer is used, it creates a good bond between wood and paint.

Wood bleaching products are used to remove various manifestations from its surface that spoil the appearance of the entire wall - these can be blue, stripes or dark spots. Simultaneously with the removal of the above-mentioned flaws, these compounds also perform a protective function.

Whitening solutions can be one- or two-component. The connection and mixing of the second version of the compositions is carried out immediately before applying them to the wood. The formulation of some of the products provides for their washing off after a certain period indicated on the package, while others remain on the wood for painting as an antiseptic. Therefore, before purchasing this or that type of bleach, you need to pay attention to the packaging, which contains the instructions for using the solution.

Varnish as a protective and decorative agent

As a protective agent for wooden walls, in addition to the above-mentioned agents, varnish solutions are used, which can also be made on a different basis. To know which of the existing varnishes are suitable for indoor use, you need to consider each of them in more detail:

Acrylic lacquer consists of polyacrylates and is organic or water based. The solution is an environmentally friendly product without a pungent odor, and therefore it is often used to cover the surfaces of not only wooden walls from the inside of the premises, but also pieces of furniture.

However, it must be borne in mind that the layer formed by this type of varnish does not have a high abrasion resistance. And this means that the coating will have to be updated quite often, and this is especially true for furniture accessories.

Polyurethane varnish It is made on a water basis, but despite this, it has high strength characteristics, including abrasion resistance. The composition of this protective agent is environmentally friendly and almost completely odorless after drying, therefore it is perfect for applying to wooden walls inside the house.

Some experienced craftsmen recommend adding hardening agents to the polyurethane solution to extend the life of the finish. Due to its high strength characteristics, this varnish is often used to cover wooden plank floors and parquet, so that it is fully suitable for walls. However, the price of this product is quite high, and this factor is the main disadvantage of such material.

Alcohol varnishes and varnishes able to create a durable glossy layer on the wood surface. However, despite the high strength, compositions on this basis are not resistant to moisture, therefore they cannot be used to cover walls in bath rooms, in a loggia and on a balcony, since the covering layer will begin to flake off.

Varnishes are made on the basis of natural resins, so the price for them is quite high. This circumstance, coupled with low moisture resistance, predetermines that such compositions are not in high demand.

Nitrocellulose varnishes consist of organic solvents and cellulose nitrate with the addition of synthetic resins to the solution.

This type of varnish is divided into two types:

- One of them is for preparatory work, that is, it creates the basis for the outer layers.

- The second is itself a decorative coating.

They differ in the digital markings on the packaging. Usually, the preparation solutions have the property of quickly drying - this quality is provided by the manufacturer to avoid delays in the work. Therefore, when purchasing this composition, you need to refer to the instructions printed on the packaging with varnish.

Nitrocellulose solutions create a sufficiently strong covering layer on the surface of wooden walls, which is transparent, therefore it does not change the natural color of the wood. Therefore, if it is supposed to preserve a beautiful textured pattern of the internal surfaces of wooden walls, then this type of varnish is well suited for this purpose. True, it is necessary to work with such compositions with special precautions - they are extremely flammable in an uncured form (until the nitro solvent evaporates), and will emit a pungent odor before drying.

Oil varnishes are made on the basis of artificial or natural resins, in addition, they also contain modified natural oil, driers and solvents. Varnishes of this type penetrate well into the wood and form a strong protective layer on its surface, which gives the wood a warm ocher tint.

The mortars are well suited for interior decoration work, they cover wooden walls, floors, as well as pieces of furniture.

Alkyd varnish made on the basis of glyphthalic or pentaphthalic resins, to which desiccants are added. Since this type of varnish contains oils used as solvents, they are also often called oil. However, the alkyd varnish version differs from the oil varnish in its higher physical, technical and operational characteristics, therefore it is successfully used not only for interior, but also for exterior decoration.

In addition to alkyd varnishes, alkyd-urea solutions are on sale, consisting of alkyd and amine-formaldehyde resins. This type of varnish can be called a two-component varnish, since its drying is possible only when acid hardeners are added to the mixture. Such a varnish is mixed immediately before applying it to the surface of the wood, since after preparation the solution remains suitable for a very limited time, and after it has hardened it will no longer be possible to dilute it.

This type of varnish is well applied and, after hardening, forms a strong protective layer on the surface, which has high wear resistance. Due to this property of alkyd-urea varnish, it can be used not only for covering walls, indoors, but also

Paints for finishing wooden walls

In order to paint a wooden house inside, paints made on any basis are suitable. Nowadays, various types of this material are presented in specialized stores in a very wide range. And one of the most important criteria when choosing a composition should be its safety, that is, the paint should not emit harmful toxic substances both during its application and during the operation of premises.

Therefore, when buying any paint and varnish material, you need to pay attention to its characteristics, which should be presented on the package. In addition, it is recommended to obtain information from a sales assistant.

So, in specialized stores today you can find the following paints for finishing wooden surfaces:

They are quite popular, since with the help of them the wood can be covered with a thick layer of paint, or you can make it translucent, thereby preserving the textured pattern of the wood. If the latter option is chosen, then the paint must be diluted with water to the required consistency.

Water-based solutions are distinguished by the absence of a sharp unpleasant odor and by the fact that they do not emit toxic, harmful fumes for humans. Therefore, they can be safely called an environmentally friendly material. The layers applied to the prepared surface adhere well and dry quickly, but are inferior to varnishes in their strength and wear resistance.

Silicone paint prices

silicone paint

Silicone paints are a solution of silicone resins, and thanks to them, they create a reliable and durable coating on the surface of the wood. The paint composition has excellent technical characteristics, it is inert to mechanical stress and has good vapor permeability, that is, it allows the wooden walls to "breathe".

Moisture resistant silicone film is abrasion and UV resistant. The applied coating is distinguished by enviable durability and is not only a protection for wood, but also a way to hide some flaws on its surface. The coating does not crack during wall shrinkage, as it has good ductility.

Silicate paint formulations are made from "liquid glass", therefore, they have a large number of positive characteristics. They are highly resistant to ultraviolet rays, high humidity, low and high temperatures, and open fire.

Silicate paint is an environmentally friendly product, since it does not contain substances harmful to humans and does not emit toxic fumes. Therefore, this type of material is excellent for covering internal surfaces, not only wood, but also made of other materials. Considering all the characteristics of this finishing material, we can conclude that it is well suited for a room where conditions may arise that increase humidity, for example, an unheated balcony or veranda.

True, silicate compositions are completely incompatible with finishing solutions made on a different basis. That is, in the case of repainting, it is necessary either to reuse silicate paint, or to clean the surface to the very base.

are made on a water basis, but have characteristics that exceed those of oil compositions, therefore they are able to give the wood reliable protection and preserve its natural color. Due to their elasticity, paints have excellent adhesion to surfaces, they do not deform or crack.

The paint can be used to paint both internal and external surfaces of a building.

Alkyd enamel used for painting both facades and interior wall surfaces. It creates a protective glossy or matte layer on the wood, making it smooth and aesthetic.

However, this composition also has its minus - over time, alkyd white enamel turns yellow, and paint that has a color fade, therefore, to paint walls, for example, a balcony located on the sunny side, or which constantly receive a "portion" of sunlight, use it is not recommended.

Oil paints have a considerable number of advantages over other compositions and are applicable for both internal and external coating of wooden surfaces. High-quality solutions are highly resistant to external mechanical influences and high humidity.

The obvious disadvantages of oil paint formulations include a long drying period, low UV resistance (over time, the coating begins to crack and peel off) and air tightness. This type of paint is most often used to cover facade surfaces, but even then - with a fairly frequent renovation of the finish.

Natural wax paint or liquid wax are made on a linen base and have been used for covering wood for more than a decade, so they can be called a traditional material. The wax absorbs well into the wood structure, making it waterproof.

The solution can be transparent or tinted. If it is planned to preserve the original color of the wood, then a transparent version of the wax is chosen, and if the wooden walls need to be darkened, then it is worth using a tinted solution. Wax paint can be easily applied to the surface, but it takes on the chosen shade only after it has completely dried. Therefore, it is recommended to begin with applying a similar composition to a small section of the wall and wait for it to dry to make sure that the optimal paint tone is chosen.

Useful tips for purchasing paint and staining

When choosing and purchasing paint for wooden walls, it is very important to pay attention to the date of manufacture of the composition and the availability of certificates confirming its quality and sanitary compliance. If the seller cannot provide documents for the goods, and the date of manufacture is not stamped on the packaging, but is written on paper and pasted on top, so to speak, is interrupted, then it is recommended to immediately refuse to purchase such paint, especially if it is purchased quite an expensive version.

The fact is that if the paint is expired or frostbite, then it may simply not lie on the surface, even if it is well prepared, and you can determine the quality of the composition only by opening the package and trying to apply it to the wood. For example, you will not be able to paint anything with a frozen solution, since the paint will most likely curl up and will have the consistency of liquid cottage cheese.

If the paint is selected of high quality, it will be easily applied to the surface, which means that a person who has never even performed such repair work before will be able to cope with painting the walls.

The first thing to note. It is a common phenomenon when many homeowners, making their own repairs in the house or, are careless about the preparatory stage of work, since they consider it unnecessary. However, if the base for decorative coatings is uneven and untreated with protective agents, you should not wait for the desired result. In addition, after a short time, even imperceptible imperfections immediately after the completion of the work will begin to appear, for example, such as blue, black wood or "resin pockets" near the knots. Therefore, the preparatory process should be considered mandatory and carried out as efficiently as possible.
When processing wood with one of the protective compounds, it is necessary to very carefully process the end parts of the logs or timber, if they go towards the rooms. If the walls of the house are lined with clapboard, then its side surfaces must also be carefully treated with antiseptic solutions.
All protective and coloring compounds are applied to wooden surfaces in thin layers along the fibers, otherwise their absorption into the wood will be uneven, which will negatively affect the overall appearance.

So that no excess paint is created on the brush, and it does not flow, but lies flat, it is recommended to use a simple device consisting of two clerical or ordinary rubber bands. One, of the elastic bands, is put on the bottom and top of the can, and the second is on its diameter. The second elastic will hold the first, preventing it from sliding to the side.

Having dipped a brush in paint, it is pressed against a stretched elastic band, leaving excess solution in the container.

When applying paint to the surface of wood, do not try to cover it immediately with a thick layer, since the staining will turn out to be sloppy. If you plan to get an opaque surface, then it is worth applying the paint in several thin layers, each of which should be applied after the previous one has completely dried.
When painting walls lined with wooden clapboard, the last top layer is best applied, starting from the top and gradually going down - this method will help to make the surface of the wall smooth.
The paint can look different in the jar and on the wall, therefore it is recommended to make a test painting, that is, apply the solution to a small section of the wall in an inconspicuous area. It is best to select the bottom corner of the surface.
In order for the decorative layer to lay flat on the surface, experts recommend adding a color scheme one or two shades darker or lighter than the main color to the primer.
The optimum temperature for painting surfaces is 22-25 degrees. You should not carry out this process in hot weather, as the paint will dry too quickly and therefore unevenly. If the temperature is too low, the fluidity, the hiding power of the compositions deteriorates, the duration of the drying period increases.

Step-by-step instructions for painting a wooden wall indoors

Taking into account all of the above listed small tricks, it will be easier to cope with the preliminary stage and painting the walls. Having prepared all the tools and workplace necessary for the process, you can proceed to the finishing itself.

The main part of the work is devoted to painting, therefore they require a more detailed description.

Illustration	Brief description of the performed operation
	For preparation and staining, it is necessary to have at your disposal some of the tools shown in the illustration. In addition to them, you will need a sander with replaceable abrasive paper sheets and, possibly, a "grinder" with an iron brush. If the wood wall has an old finish, you can use a hair dryer and a scraper (trowel) to remove it.
	The first step is to clean the surface of the old paint coating (if any). To do this, the paint layer is heated to a state of softening and peeling from the wood, and then removed with a scraper or a spatula. This work is quite lengthy and laborious, but it must be done with high quality, otherwise paint residues will show through the new decorative layer with unaesthetic irregularities.
	If the wall does not have an old coating in the form of a paint layer, but has acquired an unrespectable appearance during its operation, or wallpaper has been previously glued to it, its surface must be thoroughly cleaned by removing the upper thin layer of wood.
	The restoration of such a surface is carried out using a grinder, on which a brush with a soft metal bristle is installed, and then a grinding machine with first coarse-grained (Р80 ÷ Р120) and then fine-grained (Р150 ÷ Р180) sandpaper fixed on it. In addition, cleaning the wall or its individual sections protruding above the common surface can be carried out using an electric plane.
	When the wood is cleaned, its surface should be sanded with a fine-bristled brush or sandpaper. In the event that a wall of new wood is being prepared for painting, it also needs to be sanded to smoothness. Cleaning and grinding difficult places, for example, between two logs of a log house, can cause a lot of difficulties. But here, as they say, there is nothing you can do - you have to "sweat" if you want to get a high-quality result.
	If there is no grinder, then you will have to grind the walls by hand - this is a very difficult and long process, therefore it is still better to purchase a profile tool, since it will come in handy in a wooden house more than once. The sanded surface must be cleaned with a vacuum cleaner from dust generated during the sanding process.
	The dust-free wooden surface is then covered with one of the selected protective agents - it can be an antiseptic and fire retardant, or one of the compositions described above. Such an operation can be performed using a roller, a wide brush or a spray gun, depending on the relief of the wall and its area. If it is a log, then the work will go faster if this process is carried out using a sprayer. At the same time, one should not forget about the need for increased precautions - many primer protective compounds are very toxic before absorption and drying.
	As a preparatory, and sometimes even the main decorative layer, one of the types of varnish is used, which is applied with a wide soft brush.
	If, after the primer has dried, it is planned to apply paint or a dark tinted varnish to the surface, then you should protect the ceiling from getting the solution on it. To do this, it is recommended to stick masking tape on the ceiling along the upper edge of the wooden wall, which can be easily removed after work is completed and does not damage the plastered or painted ceiling surface.
	To paint wooden walls, you will definitely need a soft brush and roller. The roller will significantly speed up the work, since it immediately covers a large area of the wall and evenly distributes the paint solution over it. True, this is possible only on flat surfaces - when painting a log wall, the roller will not become a great helper.
	A brush is needed for painting hard-to-reach areas, such as corner areas or horizontal joints between logs. It is recommended to paint in two or three approaches, but each of the layers should cover the entire area of the wall, otherwise the paint will lie unevenly. Each subsequent layer is applied only after the previous one has completely dried.

So, the process of painting wooden surfaces in a house is a very time-consuming, large-scale task, which, however, any owner must cope with. And for the successful implementation of the work, in addition to your own desire, you must:

Have the necessary good quality tools.
Choose and purchase high-quality primers and paints and varnishes for the preparation and painting of surfaces.
Carefully, without oversimplification, carry out all the preparatory processes, without convincing yourself that "it will do just that."
To paint slowly and without trying to complete it in one go, that is, not to apply paint in one thick layer - from this approach there will be nothing but drips, paint overruns and a sloppy surface in the end.

If you strictly adhere to all these conditions, the staining will necessarily turn out the way it was originally intended, that is, neat and uniform, and the finish will last as long as possible.

And at the end of the publication - we offer to watch a meaningful video in which the master tells and shows how to paint the walls of a house from a natural wooden beam from the inside.