The best do-it-yourself garages. How to build a frame garage with your own hands

In this article, we'll walk you through the steps of building your own garage step by step. It should be noted right away that construction work should be started only after receiving all the necessary documents, otherwise you can "get caught up" in an unpleasant story.

Self-erection of a building allows you to get significant savings, eliminating the payment of a team of builders, whose services are far from cheap in our time. You can invite friends and relatives, for sure there will be a person among them who has any construction experience.

The choice of building material

You can choose any materials for the construction of a garage, according to your capabilities: wooden beams, bricks, foam, gas and cinder blocks are suitable. A "metal" option is also possible, the fastest and cheapest, however, you will need to pay for the services of a welder

Development of a simplified construction project

The construction project is necessary for the construction of a capital structure with a foundation. Do not try to order a project from professional designers: the cost of the project can exceed the cost of the garage itself. You need to take a piece of paper and draw a small diagram with explanations and an indication of the distances along the foundation of the future building and a sketch of the structure, loudly titling it "Garage Project". Also, do not forget to indicate the location "north-south", the distance to the nearest capital buildings, the red line of the street. This will be quite enough for the controlling government agencies.

If the garage will be used for parking and minor repairs of one car, the dimensions of 3 x 5.5 meters can be considered quite sufficient. Please note that the wider the garage, the more comfortable it will be to repair the car. Surely you will want to equip the garage with shelving, various shelves, boxes for storing tools, various spare parts. The height must be chosen according to your height, while adding about half a meter.

An explanatory note must be attached to the project, where you need to indicate:

1. for what purposes the building will be used;
2. material used in construction;
3. depth of the foundation;
4. what kind of roof will be (one- or gable);
5. whether there will be an inspection pit in the garage;
6. solution of issues with electricity and water supply, artificial (lamps) and natural (from the window) lighting, heating (if any).

In the explanatory note, it is also necessary to describe how the issues of collection and disposal of waste, including construction waste, will be resolved, without this point your project will not work.

Breakdown (binding) of the project on the ground

We drive a peg into one outer corner of the future foundation, then using a measuring tape we determine the places of other corners. Using the compass, we check the approximate orientation of the building and its compliance with the project. We check the symmetry: the diagonal distance should be the same. We drive in and check the internal pegs of the foundation. We pull the string over the pegs, if necessary, drive in additional stakes.

Excavation

The width of the foundation should be taken as 40-45 cm. The depth of the foundation is 60-120 cm and directly depends on the degree of freezing of the soil in winter (you can check with the land committee of the municipality). The greater the depth of freezing, the deeper the foundation should be. Digging a trench for the foundation. The bottom of the trench must be at the level of the waterproof soil layer (clay). Try to make the walls of the trench vertical and even.

Erection of the foundation

Variants are possible here, but the most optimal are the use of rubble stone, large crushed stone, ready-made concrete blocks (or their pieces), the space between which is filled with cement mortar, fillers can be used in combination. This results in savings by reducing the amount of cement.

At the bottom of the trench, it is advisable to lay an "overlap" of iron reinforcement (you can use an iron bar, unnecessary rusty pipes, any metal profile). Then we lay a row of rubble stone (you can also use fragments of white brick, pieces of concrete structures), spill a row of masonry with cement mortar. We repeat the operation until the trench is completely filled. Around the middle of the foundation height, you can lay another row of reinforcement.

Cement should be used grade 400 and higher (Portland). The components of the solution can be mixed either by hand using a suitable container, bayonet and shovel shovels, or you can use different ones, which will greatly facilitate your work. To prepare the solution, 1 part of cement is used to 2.5 parts of construction (fine-grained) sand. First, they should be mixed together, then gradually add water, stirring the mixture. The amount of water is approximately equal to the amount of cement. We achieve a uniform consistency of "homemade thick sour cream".

After filling the trench along the perimeter of the foundation, we make a formwork from thin boards with a height of about 10-15 cm, we eliminate the "holes" in the formwork. We fill it, wait for it to "grab" a little. We check the horizon of the basement (the horizontalness of the upper edge of the foundation) with a level. If the horizon is uneven, then level it with a solution. For a more even distribution of the upper layer of the solution, we make it a little thinner. After the solution for waterproofing has solidified (to protect the walls from drawing in moisture from the ground), we lay 2 layers of roofing material along the base.

Installation of garage doors

We install a pre-welded metal door frame with door canopies. On each side of the box, at the top and bottom, 4 rods (embedded parts) with a length of about 15-20 cm should be welded, they will be sealed into the seams of the masonry. We check the horizontal position of the gate with a level, if necessary, put iron plates under the corners of the box. We paint the box in the desired color in 2 layers. We support the installed gates with braces on each side.

Construction of the walls of the future garage

We erect the walls with chain masonry (the seam of the previous row is covered with an upper brick or block). You need to start from the corners. From corner to corner, pull the cord and lay out the middle of the wall. Then the process is repeated. Every 1-2 rows, it is imperative to check the verticality of the corners using a level or a homemade plumb line (any weight is tied to the rope - a weight, nut, etc.).

If the corner starts to "go" - align with the next row. The horizontal level is checked with a building level, leveled with the thickness of the mortar. If a window is provided, do not forget to leave the corresponding hole (span). We put a wide metal corner on the upper edge of the span and continue laying. You can immediately insert a window block and fix it in the wall with embedded parts similar to a gate.

As embedded parts, ordinary long nails driven from the inside can be used. In order for the walls to hold better and not crack in the future, a reinforcing mesh must be laid for every 4-5 row. The finished walls must form the necessary slope for the subsequent installation of the roof. If you plan to install a ceiling, do not forget to install floor beams into the wall in time.

When laying at a height, use scaffolding. With a pitched roof, the height of the front wall is usually about 2.5 meters, the rear wall is about 2 meters. To prepare a binder solution, use a mixture of 1 part of cement grade no lower than 400 ("Portland") and 4.5 parts of building sand. To impart plasticity, clay is added to the mortar (optionally, lime dough).

Overlapping ceiling and roof

You can use a wide metal corner or I-beams, which are embedded inside the walls when they are erected to a depth of about 10 cm, the laying step is about 1 meter. Alternatively, you can use wooden wall beams, carriage. The ceiling is sewn up with boards (35-40 mm), you can sew up with boards both from the bottom and from the top of the beams (corner). If the garage is warm, then roofing material is spread over the boards, on which it is poured, then the insulation (slag, expanded clay, earth, clay) is leveled. The thickness of the insulation is about 15-20 cm.

The roof can be made with any roofing material (roofing sheets,), which is attached to wooden boards 40 mm thick with self-tapping screws or slate nails along the upper wave.

Observation pit, floor, blind area.

It is better to choose the depth of the viewing hole so that you can stand at full height without bending or straining your back. The walls of the inspection pit should be lined with ordinary red brick to prevent crumbling. If possible, equip a convenient gangway for descent (wooden ladder).

It can be either concrete or wooden (carriage).

1. Concrete floor: We level the earth base, pour a layer of crushed stone (sand), fill it with a concrete screed about 10-15 cm thick. The composition of the concrete mixture: 1 part of cement, 2 parts of building sand, 3 parts of fine gravel. The poured mixture is leveled, trying to prevent depressions and bumps.
2. Wooden floor from gun carriage: align the earthen surface, lay 4 wooden beams (scaffolding) along the length of the garage - two at the walls and two in the middle at an equal distance, level and lay the monitor board across.

To drain rain and melt water outside the walls of the garage, arrange a blind area about 0.5 meters wide. The earthen base is leveled with a slight slope, a layer of crushed stone or sand is poured and poured with a concrete screed about 5 cm thick.

Conclusion

Undoubtedly, building a garage on your own is far from an easy task, especially in the absence of basic building skills, but with enough free time and smart assistants, this task is quite feasible. The stimulating factors here include significant cost savings and, no matter how trite it sounds, a sense of satisfaction from the visible results of one's own labor, which will certainly arise during the construction process.

The construction of a garage can be ordered by third-party specialists. You can also study the instructions available and build a great garage with your own hands. In this case, you will not have to spend money on anything other than building and finishing materials. You will personally control every stage of the work and be sure of the quality and reliability of the finished structure.

Choose the right material for building your garage. The structure can be made of "stone" building materials and metal. Brick, foam blocks, cinder blocks, etc. are usually used as stone materials.

A stone structure is characterized by a higher reliability when compared to metal structures. The metal garage wins in terms of the complexity and speed of construction. Otherwise, you will have to make your own decision about the right building material.

First, the procedure for building a garage from stone materials will be considered, and at the end you will receive recommendations for the construction of a metal garage.

Project preparation

A competent project is the key to successful work. Design documentation can be the most modest. The main thing is that the following information is reflected in the project:

• tasks assigned to the future structure. A garage designed exclusively for storing a car will be different from the building in which it is planned to carry out any more repairs. Be sure to take this point into account and reflect your wishes in the project;
• dimensions of the structure. Depends on the requirements for the future garage and the area of ​​the available construction site. For storing a passenger car, a room measuring 3x6 m is quite enough. For the rest, be guided by your needs and capabilities.

Consider the above points and draw a sketch of the future garage on paper or in a computer program.

Layout and excavation

Transfer the finished sketch to a real area. A number of reinforcement pegs will help you with this. Usually rods with a diameter of 12 mm are used. You will mark the corners and sides of the garage using pegs driven into the ground and a rope stretched between them.

After completing the marking, proceed to the main earthworks. The earth can be dug with special equipment or by hand. If you plan to equip a viewing hole or even a full-fledged cellar in the garage, it is recommended to use the help of companies specializing in earthworks. It is very difficult to dig such a large hole by hand.

In the process of digging, consider the features of the future foundation. For a strip base, a trench 60-100 cm deep is sufficient. The specific depth depends on the climatic conditions and the type of soil at the construction site. A meter depth is sufficient in most cases.

Line up the bottom and sides of the pit. An ordinary shovel will help you with this.

Foundation device

Today there are many types of foundations. Private garages are usually built on concrete foundations. This is a relatively budgetary and extremely easy-to-equip system that you can do yourself.

First step. Place a rubble stone in the trench. It is necessary to place this stone in layers, spilling each layer with concrete mortar. Prepare the mortar based on cement M400 and higher. Place the stone up to the top of the pit.

Second step. Install a wooden plinth formwork around the entire perimeter of the pit. Assemble the formwork from the boards. Boards with a width of about 10 cm are suitable. In general, the structure is set strictly according to the level.

Third step. Place moisture barrier material over the plinth. Two layers of roofing material will be more than enough. The material is laid dry.

Fourth step. Pour the basement of the future garage with concrete mortar to the level established by the formwork.

Installing gates, installing walls and erecting a roof

First step. Install the gate. This element is installed strictly before the start of the construction of the walls. Weld reinforcement rods with a diameter of about 12 mm to the door frame. Thanks to the rods, a more durable connection of the garage door with its walls will be provided. In the process of erecting the walls, the reinforcement will be embedded in the seams. Install the gate strictly vertically. After leveling the door, secure it with wooden braces.

Second step. Start laying out the walls from the selected material. The next row of masonry, regardless of the material used, should overlap the seams of the laid row. Laying should be started directly from the corners. Be sure to control the verticality of the walls, the correct angles and horizontal rows of masonry at each stage.

Third step. Install the roof of the garage at a slope necessary to drain atmospheric water. To obtain a slope, make end walls of different heights. Traditionally, a slope of 5 cm per 1 m2 is performed. For example, if the garage is about 6 m long, the total height difference will be about 30 cm.

The overlap of a private garage will look like metal beams with additional filing of wooden planks. Prepare I-beams. Their height should be about 12 cm. Use beams such that their length is about 250 mm longer than the width of the future garage. Bring these beams into the structure by at least 100 mm. At the points of support of the beams, cinder block, brick or other used building material should be replaced with monolithic concrete blocks.

Lay the beams across the structure at a distance of about 800 mm from each other. Beams are laid with embedding in the long wall of the building and the same slope as this wall.

Step four. Fasten 4-5 cm thick wooden planks along the bottom of the beams. Lay the planks as tightly as possible to each other. Cover the boards with roofing material. The edges of this waterproofing material should extend into the wall by about 100 mm.

Fill the roofing material with slag or cover the waterproofing with another insulation, for example, mineral wool insulation plates. At the rear and front edges of the roof, you need to install canopies that protrude by about 40 mm. Use boards to make visors. Pour a cement screed about 3-3.5 cm thick over the insulation. Try to align the screed as carefully as possible. Be sure to treat the hardened screed with a bituminous primer.

Step five. At the end, the roof must be waterproofed. To protect against moisture, you can use the roofing material you are already familiar with. This waterproofing material is installed using the fusion method. Also roofing material can be fixed using bituminous mastic. Lay sheets of roofing material with an overlap of about 100-150 mm. Along the edges of the roof, overlap the visor.

Guide to the construction of floors and blind areas

Make the floor at the level of the upper border of the base or slightly higher. The floor structure must be strong enough to support the weight of the vehicle and other loads. For pouring, use concrete prepared on the basis of cement grade 500. Or buy ready-made concrete grade M200. The fill layer should be about 10 cm thick.

First step. Level the subfloor carefully.

Second step. Set the beacons to the required level and pull a string between them. Lighthouses can be made, for example, from a profile pipe or other suitable material.

Third step. Lay a crushed stone pillow about 5 cm thick on the base.

Fourth step. Pour concrete in strips between the beacons. After all the concrete has been placed, the surface must be carefully leveled.

Fifth step. While the floor is gaining strength, engage in outdoor work, in particular - a blind area. In the case of a garage, a blind area 50-60 cm wide is enough.

The blind area is created in the same order as the floor, i.e. first you install the lighthouses, then you prepare the base from rubble and pour the concrete solution. Only first you need to install boards that will indicate the boundaries of the blind area, i.e. make the formwork. The very same blind area is recommended to be done with some bias from the walls of the garage. The recommended construction thickness is 40-60 mm.

As a rule, they do not pay special attention to finishing the garage. In most cases, the owners simply rub the walls with cement mortar and cover them with a layer of plaster.

A more significant point is the thermal insulation of the structure. For insulation, slabs of mineral wool and foam are suitable.

The ceiling, walls and garage doors are insulated in a similar manner. A crate is attached to the surface to be finished with a step equal to the width of the insulation slab, then a plastic film is laid on the crate, insulation is laid over the waterproofing, the laid slabs are covered with moisture insulation and, at the end, the finishing sheathing is performed, for example, clapboard, siding or other material to choose from.

The procedure for the construction of a metal garage

It takes less money and time to equip a metal garage.

First step. Make a foundation. Pre-prepare a trench about 400 mm deep around the perimeter of the future metal structure. Fix the formwork boards along the outer borders of the pit. Make the formwork so high that after pouring the mortar layer protrudes at least 10 cm above the ground. Pour the mortar immediately over the entire area.

Second step. Make a frame from a shaped pipe. You will need a welding machine. Attach the framing elements to the dried concrete base. For fixing, use an anchor with a length of about 20 cm and a diameter of about 14 mm. Anchors can be made from reinforcement. For greater convenience, pre-prepare holes in the concrete with a diameter equal to the diameter of the anchors.

Third step. Weld the bottom chord of the garage frame to the hammered rods. For reliable fixation of a 4x6 m structure, 15 anchors will be enough. Continue to weld the transverse chords of the structure until you have obtained the frame of the required height.

Fourth step. Sheathe the frame with sheet metal. Sheets with a thickness of 3-4 mm will be enough.

Fifth step. Insulate the inside of the garage walls. To do this, pre-attach a frame made of wooden blocks to the walls. Place the beams with a step equal to the width of the insulation plate. For thermal insulation, it is most convenient to use mineral wool or foam. Previously, the wooden frame should be covered with plastic wrap, and insulation should be laid on it. Place a vapor barrier film on top of the thermal insulation. Finally, sheathe the walls with clapboard, OSB, siding, chipboard or any other material of your choice.

So, if you are looking for a simple and inexpensive garage, opt for a metal structure, provided it is properly constructed and handled carefully, a metal garage will last a very long time.

If you want to have a capital and maximum durable structure, make a garage out of concrete blocks, bricks and other similar materials. Both tasks are solved without any problems on their own, it is enough just to carefully follow the instructions and unconditionally follow the basic recommendations.

Happy work!

Video - Building a garage with your own hands

For a real car enthusiast, a car is not only a means of transportation and a fascinating "constructor", but also a friend and reliable companion. The car needs constant maintenance - it needs to change oil, filters, candles. But the most important thing that a car enthusiast can do for his car is building a garage with his own hands. As a rule, such a design turns out to be very reliable, since only the owner of the car knows what kind of "dwelling" his "iron friend" needs to feel comfortable in it. In addition, this allows you to save money for the family budget, since expensive services will not be used and unnecessary materials will not be purchased.

Paperwork

A garage built with your own hands on a land plot not intended for construction is considered unauthorized from the point of view of legislation. This also includes the situation when the construction of a garage is carried out on land that does not belong to the owner of the car.

It is not required to issue permits only in the following cases:

• the garage is an auxiliary structure;
• the garage is being built on a garden or summer cottage for non-commercial purposes;
• the garage is not capital (frame or metal).

All other unauthorized buildings are subject to legalization. It is also necessary to register a plot of land, if this procedure was not previously carried out.

When choosing one or another garage design, it is important to know its real cost. An interesting fact is that the cost can vary very widely. It is determined by many different factors. This is the cost of materials, construction and finishing works. The choice of equipment for utilities, the size of the garage building structure and other factors are also taken into account.

The approximate cost of building a garage is not difficult to calculate, but it is important to take into account the price variation depending on the factors listed.

Here is an example: to build a one-story standard garage of 4x7m and a height of 3m, you need to lay the foundation, basement, build walls, make a roof, lay the floor and put it. In addition, also to make external and internal decoration of the premises. Additional costs may arise if you need to redeem a plot of land for a garage, draw up documentation on the acquisition of land ownership, or join a garage cooperative.

Here is the approximate cost for each stage of construction work:

This calculation does not include the cost of heating, ventilation and electricity.

You can invest in this amount if you build a garage yourself, and if you invite specialists to carry out the construction, it will cost much more. For example, the services of one bricklayer are $ 700, and in addition to him, you will also need a roofer, installer and plasterer. Therefore, the most economical is to build a garage with your own hands. But on the other hand, having paid for the work of specialists, you can count on qualified and high-quality work, which will be done in short lines. After all, you do not have to study and master the features of brickwork and mix the mortar yourself.

The table shows the cost of relatively inexpensive materials. Namely, roofing material, unedged board and asbestos-cement slate are used for the roof. But you can use modern materials for the roof, for example, bituminous tiles or metal tiles, corrugated board. In this case, the cost of the material will increase several times.

Once you decide, you will see how fun and creative it is. You will get great pleasure not only from the result of the work, but also from the construction process itself.

When a garage is planned to be installed in a house, it is also easy to calculate its cost, but it will include design costs, and the costs of foundation and wall erection will relate to the construction of the house, which will create additional cost savings.

Very often, building a garage with your own hands becomes the defining principle of choosing a construction method. It is an interesting and creative process that brings joy from a satisfying result.

You can build a car shelter in different ways. It all depends on your financial capabilities, the available building plot and personal preferences. The garage can be attached from the end of a residential building or summer cottage, from the back, or even build it under the house itself. In addition, you can find collapsible structures on sale or simply arrange a canopy, which has the lowest cost and ease of construction, but this option is the least reliable.

The most popular option is a free-standing garage, which must be located as close as possible to the entrance to the site so that you do not have to waste precious square meters laying the entrance paths through the entire territory. The best option would be to locate the garage directly on the building line of the site, since in this case the garage doors will face the street. Such garages can be a prefabricated metal structure, a capital structure with a flat or gable roof, as well as some part of a utility block.

Now you can proceed directly to the construction of the garage, which, like any other business, will give you a lot of trouble, but at the same time you will receive a huge amount of positive emotions. Also, with self-construction, you can significantly save money. Immediately after viewing photographs illustrating the construction process, your hands will "itch" and you will want to start construction as soon as possible, and upon completion of construction, the result will delight you!

It is necessary to start any construction with the preparation of a project for a future object. In this case, it is not at all necessary to make a large number of drawings, but if you want to achieve an excellent result, do not be too lazy to describe and draw your future garage in advance in all details.

To begin with, even at the design stage, you need to decide on the following:

1. Tasks that will face the garage. Here you need to decide whether repair work will be carried out in the garage or it will be used only for parking the car. Do you need a viewing pit? All requirements must be written down on paper.
2. Required garage height. This parameter should be chosen based on the tasks that will be assigned to the garage, as well as the size and characteristics of the site on which the construction will be carried out.

If you want to build a garage only for parking your car, then a garage that measures 3x6 meters (if your car is a standard size) is fine for you. Such a garage will easily accommodate a car up to 4.5 meters long and up to 2 meters wide, and on the sides it will have 50 cm each, which will be used to open the doors and then exit the car.

The height of the garage must be such that it is sufficient for the vehicle to enter. Most often it is 1.5-2 meters, but it will be better if you tie it to the size of the gate, which is 2-2.5 meters high. If you have a prestigious foreign car, the width of which exceeds 1.9 meters and the length is 5 meters, then you should build a larger garage.

In the event that you plan to place a workbench or cellar in your garage, then you will have to increase it a little more. The large garage is very convenient for servicing and repairing the car, and on the shelves and racks you can store seasonal tires, utility utensils and various tools. If you build, then you will need to leave an additional distance between them, equal to 70 centimeters.

Seat selection

Before choosing a place for your future garage, you need to draw up a master plan of the site, placing all existing buildings on it, taking into account sanitary and hygienic and fire safety standards. It is also necessary to take into account the convenience of approaching the garage, as well as its location relative to the house and the boundaries of your land plot.

The garage can be located both in the depth of the site and on the building line, if the gate, when open, will not interfere with vehicles passing by. In addition, the garage should be located one meter from the neighboring site, if the water flowing from its roof will not get to the neighbors. According to sanitary standards, the distance from the entrance to the garage to the windows of neighbors should not be less than ten meters.

In addition, fire safety standards dictate their requirements. According to them, it is not recommended to place a detached garage closer than 15 meters from buildings that are finished with polymer materials, and closer than 9 meters from the house itself.

After you sketch on paper, you can try to transfer them to the area, for which you will need a few pegs, a nylon cord, a long tape measure, and a heavy hammer. In order to tie the location of the future garage to the terrain, it is necessary to locate one of the corners of the garage, and then, relying on it, mark the rest.

Building materials

You can build a garage yourself using a wide variety of materials:

• the most common and familiar material is brick, from which you can build a fairly reliable garage;
• also a reliable garage can be built from reinforced concrete, while it will be collapsible, that is, you can dismantle this structure at any time;
• if you build a garage from cinder-concrete, then it will cost you less than a brick one, but you will have to spend more effort on its construction. The safety of such a garage is somewhat lower;
• you can quickly build a garage from metal, and its cost will be within reasonable limits, since such a garage does not require a foundation;
• wood is rarely used to build a garage, since such a garage needs constant maintenance and is considered the most unreliable.

Foundation and earthworks

Excavation work during the construction of a garage must be done manually. The minimum trench width for a monolithic foundation should be 40 centimeters, and the depth is selected depending on the level of soil freezing. Most often, the depth is in the range of 0.6-1.2 meters, but a meter depth may well be enough for you.

In order for the bottom of the trench to be not loose, it is necessary to select the soil to a layer that has a natural density. The walls of the trench must be shovelled to make them even and vertical. A wide variety of foundations can be used to build a garage. But this article will consider a concrete foundation, which is considered relatively inexpensive and fairly simple.

It is very simple to make a concrete foundation: first, you need to lay a rubble stone in rows in a trench, pouring cement mortar on each row as much as is necessary to fill the trench to the very top. The grade of the mortar used for these purposes must be at least 150. To obtain a solution of this grade, you need to mix 2.5 buckets of sand with one bucket of 400 Portland cement, and then add as much water as is needed to obtain a solution of the desired mobility.

For the construction of the basement, it is necessary to install a wooden formwork made of boards around the perimeter of the trench, whose width should be about 10 centimeters. Be sure to level the formwork. With an uneven site, the highest place should be taken as a basis, to which you need to add ten centimeters to the base, and then measure the horizon from it.

Horizontal waterproofing, made of several layers of roofing material, must be arranged along the plinth, laying it dry. Waterproofing plays a very important role here - it will not allow the walls of the garage to absorb capillary moisture from the ground.

Before you start building the walls of the garage, you should first install the garage doors, as they will gradually be fixed in the masonry when the wall is being erected.

They should be easy to use and reliable. They can be lift-and-turn, roller shutters, sectional and swing, and open mechanically or automatically. It is best to choose an automatic gate, since in this case you can open them without leaving the car using the remote control. But at the same time, there must be a manual control mode in case the electricity is turned off.

The frame of the sash can be made of wooden blocks 50 mm thick and 90-100 mm wide. After that, you need to paint the outer side of the frame and nail 6 mm plywood directly onto the paint. Then the frame must be turned over and filled with insulation all the free space between the bars, also laying it on fresh paint, which will help prevent the insulation from slipping in the future. After that, the frame must be painted on the other side, and then the painted hardboard or plywood must be nailed down, so that you get a warm sandwich made of hardboard, insulation and plywood.

In order to increase the strength of the connection of the door frame with the wall, it is necessary to weld the frame to the embedded parts, which can be used as round rods with a diameter of 10-12 mm. These rods must be sealed in the joints when laying. The gate should be installed strictly vertically, carefully checking the installation with a level or plumb line. The gate can be leveled with a small crowbar and flat stones, which must be placed at the corners.

After the gate is installed, you can start laying the walls. With a wall width of 20 cm, it is necessary to lay bricks, foam blocks or cinder blocks with a "brick", that is, ordinary chain masonry, where each next row should overlap the seams of the previous one. Laying should start from the corners. Next, between the corners, you need to pull a thin cord along which the rest of the blocks will fit. Then again you will need to raise the corners and continue laying.

Be sure to check the verticality of the walls with a plumb line during the masonry process, paying special attention to the verticality of the corners, since this is very important. The horizontalness of the rows must be checked using a level, not forgetting about the necessary slope, thanks to which rainwater will drain. For the same reason, it is necessary to make the end walls of the garage of different heights, that is, the upper edge of both side walls should be sloped. The slope must be made in such a way that it takes into account the length of the garage, that is, 5 centimeters of the slope for each meter of the garage length. For example, if the length of your garage is 6 meters, then the height difference should be 30 cm. To get an even slope, you should pull the cord and navigate along it.

In addition, it is necessary to take care of the scaffold in advance. They are needed if the wall masonry will exceed 1.5 meters. You can use anything as a material for making the scaffolding - old door leaves or boards that must support the weight of a person, several building blocks and several buckets of mortar, that is, about 200 kg.

The mortar that will be used for laying the walls must be kneaded in the following proportion - 4.5 buckets of sand for 1 bucket of cement belonging to grade 400. Do not make it too liquid, it should resemble thick sour cream in consistency. In order for the solution not to delaminate and to be more plastic, you need to add half a bucket of lime dough or ordinary clay to it.

The wall, which is located on the side of the gate, is best done with a height of 2.5 meters, and the wall on which the slope goes - 2 meters. If there is such a need, then the height of the walls can be easily increased to 3-4 meters, but in this case it is imperative to reinforce every 4-5 rows with a metal mesh.

Roof and slab

The garage floor can be made of metal beams with plank filing. For this purpose, you will need steel beams with a height of 100-120 mm, which are perfect for constructing a garage floor, whose length is 6 meters. The length of the beams should be chosen 20-25 cm longer than the width of the garage, this is necessary so that at least 10 cm of their length fits into the wall.

Beams must be laid across the garage every 80 cm, parallel to the short wall. It is recommended to first lay the beams and embed them in long walls, and only then repeat their slope. Then you can start to sew up the floor, for which you need to lay boards with a thickness of 40 mm along the lower shelves of the beams, while moving them as tightly as possible. After that, you need to place roofing material on top of the boards. The roll must be rolled out across the garage so that the edges are curved up by about 10 cm. Next, on the roofing material, you should lay a semi-rigid mineral slab, expanded clay or slag.

In order to protect the walls from moisture, the roof should protrude approximately 20 cm from the front and rear of the garage. Such canopies can be made from planks that run under the upper flange of the beams.

On top of the slag, it is necessary to make a cement screed using the same cement mortar as for the masonry. The screed should be about 20 mm thick, but if its thickness is 30-35 mm, then this would be ideal. When doing the screed, try to avoid the formation of depressions and strong bumps, otherwise the roof will constantly absorb moisture, which will lead to its leakage. In order to prevent this from happening, the roof should be covered with a waterproof material, which can be a roofing material or its modifications - rubemast, aquaizol, bikrost, etc., which can be glued to the roof using two methods - by fusing or using bitumen mastics.

Before laying roofing material on the roof, it is advisable to treat the cement screed with a primer or bitumen primer so that the roofing material adheres well to it. The primer can be prepared independently using diesel fuel and molten bitumen, or waste oil and bitumen in a 3: 1 ratio. Remember that it is necessary to pour bitumen into diesel fuel or oil, and not vice versa. It is best to do the laying of roofing material together. You should start from a low part of the roof, moving up the slope and gluing strips of roofing material with an overlap of 10 cm across the garage. Roofing material at the beginning and end of the roof must be overlapped onto the end boards of the visor. Before installation, all beams should be painted twice, and the boards must be treated with an antiseptic and painted.

Blind area and floors

It is customary to arrange at the level of the base. Considering the fact that a car will drive into the garage, the highest requirements must be imposed on the strength of the floor. As a material for the floor, concrete is best suited, the layer thickness of which should be about 8-10 cm. Before placing concrete, the earthen base must be leveled and thoroughly cleaned.

If you need a bedding, then for this you can use sand or fine gravel, which must be carefully tamped. Floor concrete can be used ready-made, brand M200, or you can prepare it yourself by taking the components in the following proportion: two buckets of sand, three buckets of fine gravel and one bucket of cement.

In order to end up with a flat floor, you should put up beacons made from a profile pipe, or pull the laces. Try to lay concrete in portions, but so that the process goes without interruption. After the completion of the concrete placement, it should be rubbed as thoroughly as possible, and if necessary, then ironed.

Outside, around the garage, it is necessary, the width of which should be about 50 cm. The work should be carried out in the same way as it was with the floor - first, a base is made of gravel, and then concrete is laid on top. For the blind area, the thickness of concrete should be about 4-5 cm, and it itself should have a slight slope directed from the garage, because the blind area serves to drain rain and melt water from the walls of the garage.

Heating and finishing

The garage does not need any special finishing; it will be enough to wipe the walls with cement mortar, or simply plaster them and whitewash them.

As for heating, this issue is much more important. Remember that no amount of insulation in the garage will save your car in winter if you do not use additional heating equipment. The garage can be insulated with semi-rigid mineral wool slabs or 5 cm thick foam slabs.

Built-in and attached garages are usually warm, as they are heated by a home boiler room. Garage heating can be either electric or hot water. In addition, infrared heaters and oil convectors can be installed. It does not matter how the garage is heated, the main thing is that the temperature in it in winter is at least 5-6 degrees above zero.

Remember that too warm rooms are harmful to cars, as at high temperatures condensation forms on the body, and corrosion forms on parts, which reduces the life of the car.

Be sure to make sure that there is good supply and exhaust ventilation in the garage, with the help of which exhaust gases will be removed from the garage, as well as the smell of gasoline and hot oil, which will have a positive effect on drying the car and create an acceptable air exchange, which for one car is 180 cubic meters per hour.

With effective ventilation, a 5-10-fold air exchange should be ensured. To obtain such values, three ventilation modes can be applied: natural, mechanical and combined. The simplest and most inexpensive mode is natural air exchange. To organize this mode, it is necessary to install supply grilles at the bottom of the gate. Air will be removed from the garage through a deflector, which is a special exhaust device located at the very end of the exhaust duct.

In the garage, the duct should be located near the wall farthest from the gate. In this scheme, heavy fresh air will enter the garage through the supply grilles, and the less dense exhaust air will be displaced at the same time. For effective air exchange, the cross-section of the ducts of the exhaust ventilation system must be two times less than the cross-section of the supply ducts. But the natural regime also has disadvantages, since it is quite dependent on various external factors, such as pressure, the presence of wind and the difference between external and internal temperatures.

If you install an exhaust fan in your garage, you have a combined system. The exhaust fan must be installed in the wall or in the roof exhaust duct. Among the disadvantages of the combined system are the lack of heating and filtration of air coming from the street, as well as the constant operation of the fan.

Mechanical ventilation does not have all the disadvantages listed above, since both the supply of air and its removal are responsible for special supply and exhaust ventilation devices. The supply ventilation includes a heater, fan and filter. The air in such a system, entering through the ventilation duct, is first heated, then filtered, and only after that it enters the garage through the air distributor. Exhaust air is removed using an exhaust fan.

The inspection pit is a rather important part of the garage, since every modern car needs to be inspected, repaired and maintained from time to time. But some car owners see the inspection pit as a tribute to habit and fashion, rather than a necessary part of the garage.

But in the event that you decide to do it, you should start the work by marking it on the garage site. It is recommended to make a viewing hole with a slight offset (10-20 cm) from the central axis in order to leave more free space on the left for a workbench and a driver's passage.

The inspection pit must be the same length as the vehicle, excluding bumpers. This is necessary in order not to accidentally fall into the open pit with your foot. To repair the front or rear of the car, it must be moved back or forward.

It is better not to equip the entrance to the pit with a ladder, as this can increase the risk of injury. In addition, high humidity is always observed in the inspection pit, which can cause a wooden staircase to rot very quickly. It is better to make instead of a ladder several steps with a width of 30-35 cm. It is best to fill the pit walls and steps with concrete.

During repairs, the surface of the steps can be used for storing tools. It is advisable to frame the upper curbs with a corner so that they do not collapse. The corners must be reinforced, that is, metal rods or bolts must be welded to them from the side in order to rigidly fix them in concrete.

Along the edges of the contour of the pit, it is imperative to install restrictive bars, while making an oval on the outside so that the car repels from the pit if it suddenly hits it with a wheel.

Various cover options can be used to close the pit. The pit lids and framing contour can be assembled from wooden panels assembled from 40 mm thick boards. To make the shields move faster, balls with a diameter of 15-20 mm can be inserted in the lower part.

The project documentation must include a road to the garage. On the one hand, the type of coverage must correspond to the style of the garage, and on the other hand, it is imperative to take into account the geology of the site, the level of groundwater and the peculiarity of the soil. Some solutions may involve conventional backfilling with gravel or sand with drainage, while others are tiles or brick, fastened with mortar.

In addition, the access road must be in harmony with the garden paths and take into account all the preferences of the owners.

The driveway that leads to the garage must be flat and solid and can be made of asphalt, paving or concrete. When building an access road, try to follow the construction technology so that in the spring the path does not swell and the tiles do not part.

Now you know how to build a garage with your own hands. After reading this manual and purchasing the necessary materials and tools, you will not have any difficulties in carrying out the work.

In the modern world, every family has its own vehicle, some families can even afford to have several of them. The most common is the car. He becomes a real member of the family, they take care of him, look after him and try to keep him in good conditions. Therefore, many car enthusiasts prefer their own garage to street parking, which serves not only as a home for a car, but also as a storage place for the necessary tools and a station for repairing the "iron horse".

Important features

Having their own private house or summer cottage, many owners prefer to have a garage nearby for a car. Moreover, you can build it with your own hands, even without having a construction or architectural education.

You just need to study well the materials for creating this simple structure, correctly execute the plan-scheme and all preliminary calculations.

First of all, you need to decide what kind of building you will need to build. The garage can be small, standard sizes for one car, and have a flat shed roof. It can also be transformed from a parking place for a car into a whole complex of useful premises on a personal plot.

So, it can be two-story or with a gable roof, and under it there can be a small cozy attic, which will serve, for example, as a recreation room or a guest room.

It is also possible to equip not just a viewing pit, but a real cellar for storing blanks for the winter, unnecessary things. In such a garage, you can organize a small utility block by installing racks, shelves, a work table and even a sink.

For owners of two cars or a truck, you just need to increase the parameters of the structure. You can even make separate blocks by building an additional partition. There are many options for building a garage. You just need to decide on the individual needs, desires and material capabilities of the owner.

Choice of material and design

This issue must be approached with full responsibility. Based on how much funds will be allocated for construction, whether it will be an economy option or a luxurious room, you can start choosing the structure and materials itself.

In the modern construction market there is a huge variety of different materials, both cheap and expensive. Among them are:

• brick;
• sandwich panels;
• cinder blocks;
• gas silicate blocks;
• reinforced concrete slabs;
• polycarbonate;
• shield material.

In the role of auxiliary materials, the following can be used:

• sleepers;
• bars;
• crushed stone;
• sand;
• cement.

Currently, the design of garages can be completely different. The most popular and simple one can be called the usual rectangular structure. Today, the garage of the "pencil case" or "shell" type, popular in Soviet times, is practically a thing of the past. It was possible to install them anywhere, since they were more equated with car awnings.

These “pencil cases” garages quickly became popular. They had a number of advantages:

• low price and ease of installation;
• protection of the car from bad weather and theft;
• the ability to place next to the house;
• additional storage space for inventory.

Today the following types of garages can be distinguished:

1. Made of bricks. This is a capital building that will serve for many years. But at the same time, it is the most complex and costly.
2. From various blocks... It is warm, has less weight than brick, and the material for construction is cheaper.
3. Made of metal. For its manufacture, professional welding is required. This is a lightweight construction, but such a garage is very cold and must be insulated.
4. Frame garage... It is easy to build. Any materials available can be used.

There are even motorists who build an underground garage. It is not visible to others and saves space on the site. It is easy to bring all communications to it directly from home: electricity, heating, water supply, and even sewerage. In addition, it will be possible to get into it directly from home.

Project

The first and very important stage of construction is the development of the project. Before its approval, it is necessary to determine the place of construction. The garage can be either detached or attached to any building on the site. The main thing is that it is comfortable to use it and it fits into the overall design of the yard.

A detached garage is chosen if, with such an arrangement, it will be more convenient to drive up to it. You can even build it in such a place that the gate will immediately open onto the road.

An attached garage is useful if the main building is close to the outside of the lot. With such an arrangement, it even becomes possible to combine communications with the house.

As for the construction costs, depending on the choice of location, it should be noted that a separate garage will be cheaper, since in the case of an extension, the foundation of an existing building will have to be strengthened, which will inevitably incur additional costs.

When creating a project, it is not necessary to resort to the help of professionals. It is necessary to complete at least the simplest drawing indicating all the dimensions of the planned building. The main thing is that the drawing contains information about:

• The purpose of the construction. If the garage is designed only for storing a car, its area will be smaller than if it is planned to equip additional places for storing inventory, repairing a car or resting there.
• The size of the building. They depend primarily on the size and number of vehicles.

Having decided on the location, having drawn the project of the capital structure with the planned dimensions, you can begin to calculate the materials and, accordingly, the costs for them.

This stage must be taken extremely responsibly, because errors in calculations can lead to a shortage of materials or, conversely, to unnecessary spending.

Layout and excavation

In order to transfer the finished project to the area, the following tools will be needed:

• strong nylon thread;
• roulette;
• stakes or parts of reinforcement;
• big hammer.

With the help of them, you will need to make the same drawing, only on the ground and in full size.

After that, you can proceed to earthworks. You can dig trenches either manually or with a mini excavator, if available. It is immediately necessary to prepare a place for a viewing hole, if necessary. Its depth should be about two meters, although this figure may vary.

The main thing is to take into account that the optimal depth is 15-20 cm more than a person's height. The width will be enough up to 1 meter. The pit length of about two meters is sufficient for repairing any car.

For the foundation of the future foundation, the optimal trench depth will be from 60 to 100 cm, although it is worth considering the type of soil and climatic conditions. It can be increased if necessary.

Foundation: options

There is a wide variety of foundations today. But the most common can be called a monolithic foundation. There are two ways to build it:

• small stones are laid in a trench, then poured with concrete;
• reinforcement is installed in the trench and filled with mortar.

Please note that the foundation must be above ground level. Therefore, formwork is additionally manufactured and installed. Its height will indicate the level of the foundation. Thus, the device of the garage foundation has the following stages:

1. A stone is laid in a trench in layers, each is poured with concrete.
2. Formwork is installed around the perimeter. It is made of boards about 10 cm wide, strictly according to the level.
3. The material for moisture insulation is laid on top. Roofing material is good for this purpose.
4. Concrete mortar is poured at the level of the formwork and leveled.

It is necessary to wait until the structure is completely dry. This will take about three weeks. Otherwise, the foundation will be short-lived.

Erection

Quickly, efficiently and for a long time, you can build a garage on your site of brick or expanded clay concrete slabs. The principle of their laying is the same. They differ only in size.

Walls

After the foundation has dried, you can proceed to laying the walls. Be sure to lay a waterproofing slightly wider than the wall.

Bricks or blocks should be laid according to a scheme in which the elements of the upper row overlap the seams of the lower one. It is better to start construction from the corners. The evenness of the walls is controlled using a level and a plumb line.

It is necessary to take care of the mortar for masonry walls. It needs to be kneaded at the rate of one bucket of cement for 4.5 buckets of sand. It shouldn't be too liquid. To achieve plasticity of the solution, you can extract half a bucket of clay. This will prevent delamination later on.

If there were windows and doors in the project, then an empty space is left under them, respectively, according to the desired dimensions of these structures.

Roof

There are 2 main types of roofs:

• single-slope;
• gable.

A pitched roof has a simpler design, it is less expensive. But when constructing it, you need to remember that it is necessary to make a slope. Its optimal value is 10-12 degrees. With this value, precipitation does not accumulate and completely disappears from the roof. Probably the only drawback of such a structure is the lack of an attic.

As for the gable roof, it is more complicated in equipment, more expensive due to the need to purchase additional material. On the other hand, you can build an attic or an attic under it.

If you still build a pitched roof, then you should start from its base. Wooden beams are taken and laid across the structure with an approximate step of one meter. Then they must be sewn up with a wooden bar at least 4 cm thick as tightly as possible.

The next layer is roofing material and insulation. Next, you need to equip and fill the cement screed. As the final topcoat, you can use, for example, aquiazole or rubemax. It is better to build visors on the front and front sides of the roof.

Gates, windows, doors

It is necessary to install metal-plastic or wooden windows and metal doors into the left openings.

Windows can, at will, be made sash (swing), lifting or deaf. Although the latter option is not recommended, as it will not be possible to ventilate the room, and harmful chemicals can accumulate in it. In addition, you can choose the type of glass for modern windows. They may be:

• patterned;
• sunscreen;
• anti-glare;
• unbreakable;
• fire-fighting;
• multilayer.

Each type has its own properties, and depending on the needs of the owner, you can choose either an original appearance, or ease of use, or safety. Naturally, the price for such windows will be much higher.

As for the gate, there are also several options here. You can install ordinary double-leaf metal gates, or you can choose a more expensive option and mount roller shutters, which can be manual or electric. The latter option, of course, is the most expensive, and it is better to entrust the installation and configuration of the remote control to professionals. On the other hand, this option is the most prestigious, lightweight and convenient to operate.

There are several types of garage doors, depending on their design:

• Swing. They are inexpensive and consist of two leaves of the canvas, they are easy to make with your own hands.
• Sectional. They are a sectional sheet, which, when opened, rises to the ceiling using a lifting mechanism.
• Recoil. Opened by sliding to the side.
• Roller shutters. They consist of plates that, when opened, fold into a specially made box.

Also, the gate must meet the following requirements:

1. to provide unhindered and comfortable check-in and check-out of the car, fully correspond to its dimensions;
2. be durable and burglar-proof;
3. provide protection from environmental influences.

Sealing openings

Openings and crevices must be foamed. This is best done 2/3 of the gap. Once the foam dries, the excess can be trimmed off to give the structure an aesthetic appearance. After that, they can be trimmed with corners made of plastic, metal or wood.

Parapet

On the roof along the front and side parts, it is recommended to equip a parapet about 20-30 cm in height. It can be made of brick or foam concrete.

Floor installation and wall insulation

The floor in the garage must be arranged flush or slightly higher than the base. The structure must be strong and durable.

First of all, you need to level the base well. Lay a layer of rubble about 5 cm on it. Then you need to fill the floor with concrete and level it well. The concrete layer will turn out to be impressive, it needs to be allowed to dry well.

The floor in the garage can also be made of concrete slabs, and the space between them can be laid with small stones and cemented.

Since the garage is used all year round, it is better to immediately insulate its walls. For this, you can use mineral wool or foam. The insulation scheme is simple: a crate is attached to the walls, it is better to apply waterproofing on it. Then blocks of insulation are stacked. At the end, sheathing is performed, for example, from drywall, siding or lining.

With such a wall decoration, the garage will turn out to be warm, it will not freeze in the winter. And the car will be in a comfortable environment.

Roof waterproofing

Waterproofing the roof of the garage is an important stage of construction. How dry the room will turn out will depend on its correct implementation, because the roof will not let moisture through in bad weather or in winter. In the process of waterproofing the roof, every stage is important - from the choice of materials to competent and professional installation.

For its correct implementation, it is necessary to correctly select the materials. They should be:

• durable - the material must be resistant to stress and environmental influences;
• elastic - this property should save the waterproofing layer from destruction in case of any deformations;
• have good water-repellent characteristics - the material should not let through not only the water itself, but also its vapors;
• heat-resistant - this is important for keeping and maintaining heat in the room.

There are several types of waterproofing materials on the building materials market:

1. Membrane systems... The membrane has good properties, it can be used even at strong temperature drops. It is a very durable material. It can last up to 50 years. It can be installed in all weather conditions.
2. Polymer mastics. They have high strength, reliability and durability. They do not need repair for several decades. Such a coating retains its operational properties even in harsh climates, it is not afraid of either frost or the sun, it does not melt or crack. When applying the mastic, there are no seams, which is an additional protection from external factors.
3. Film coatings... The special underlay film has microperforation. Thanks to micropores, the air is ventilated. The roofing anti-condensation film is made of viscose, which allows it to absorb moisture well. This type of waterproofing is best used when constructing roofs made of metal or corrugated board.

For waterproofing a pitched roof, liquid rubber and mastic are well suited. It should be noted that waterproofing works are best done in warm sunny weather.

Finishing work inside and outside

The choice of interior and exterior finishing works is limited only by imagination and finances. Finishing can be minimal, using simple and cheap materials such as cement mix, whitewash or plaster, or it can be spent on it and give the garage a presentable look both outside and inside. Brick walls can be finished with clapboard or siding.

In two-story garages, much attention can be paid to finishing the second floor or attic. It can turn into a full-fledged room if you dream up and give it an original design.

The exterior of the garage can be finished in various ways:

• plaster;
• jointing of seams;
• finishing with natural stone;
• facing with sheet materials.

External wall plastering can be produced in different colors. There are various decorative plasters such as terrasite, stone or lime-sand. Stone is the most durable, but when finishing with them, you need to invest a lot of effort and money in the work. They are applied in two to four layers with a total thickness of about 10 cm.

Lime-sand plasters are applied with the addition of a small amount of cement. Mica can be added to terrazzo plaster to give the walls an attractive shine. After the layer of such plaster has dried, it must be wiped off. With the help of jointing, you can give them different shapes and colors.

Layers of stone chips can be applied to the exterior walls of the garage. It must be moistened with water and applied directly to a fresh primer coat.

The garage can also be finished by painting it. Before this, the walls must be sanded. After painting with oil paints, varnish can be applied to the walls to give them a shine. The varnish is applied to a dry, clean surface, preferably in two layers.

You can also use nitro paints. They are usually produced ready-made and applied with spray guns. They dry very quickly.

Interior decoration is also an important element. It not only protects the garage from harmful environmental factors, but also makes it look attractive. It must meet the following requirements:

• Be non-flammable. Even with a slight ignition, the fire can go to it, this should not be allowed.
• Be resistant to contact with chemicals.
• Be unassuming in grooming.
• Resistant to dirt and damage.

Plastering the interior walls of the garage today is an economical and simple way of finishing. It is non-flammable, easy to repair and is great for almost any garage design.

Interior decoration can be done using ceramic tiles. It is fireproof, protects against moisture, mechanical damage, chemical attack, easy to clean. With this finish, the garage becomes cozy and presentable. By the way, this type of decoration is best done on walls made of brick or concrete, which are of sufficient thickness.

Another finishing method is plastic sheeting. It is lightweight and economical. PVC panels are fire resistant and water resistant. They are easy to install and give the garage a neat look.

The garage ceiling can also be plastered or covered with plastic panels. The material of its cladding may depend on the wishes and preferences of the owner.

Since there is often not enough light in the garage, you often have to use a power tool or electric heaters, then at the finishing stage it is also necessary to supply electricity to the garage in any convenient way. The garage is usually connected to the electricity supply through a common house automatic machine.

The wiring diagram must necessarily include separate lines for 220 and 380 V. In order to properly equip the building with electricity, it is necessary to draw up a power supply diagram. It takes into account all electrical appliances that will take place in the garage, and their location. These are sockets, lighting fixtures, and heaters.

It is desirable that each line be connected separately, for this it is necessary to use circuit breakers.

After connecting the power supply, sockets and switches can be installed. Decorative lamps are installed on the walls and ceiling of the garage. If there is a viewing hole, you must not forget about its lighting.

You can install electricity yourself only if you have special knowledge and skills for this, because this is a very difficult and even dangerous task.

It will be easier and safer to entrust this work to qualified professionals. Of course, their work will not be cheap at all, but on the other hand, there will be no need to worry about the result. Experienced electricians will definitely check the quality of all connections after completing the work and give a guarantee for their work.

Heating selection

But even when the garage is insulated, it is better to additionally equip a heating system in it, especially if it will be used for car repairs. Heating can be of two types - constant and periodic.

Permanent heating is a miniature copy of a home's heating system. It is expensive and troublesome. With this type of heating, it will be necessary to install radiators in the garage and connect them with an additional pipe to the heating system of the house. Gas heating can also be used if there is a gas pipe next to the garage.

Intermittent heating is not difficult to organize. But at the same time, it is not particularly comfortable and convenient. With this type of heating system, garages are equipped with stoves, always with chimneys. You can heat them with any combustible material. But often it is not possible to achieve uniform heating of the room with their help. Such heating devices must be placed as far as possible from combustible objects in order to avoid a fire.

Therefore, the simplest heating methods are often used in garages - heat flares. They are mobile, do not cause unnecessary trouble and warm up the room well. The heat gun is powered from the mains. They can be placed several in different places if the garage area is impressive.

You can also use the air heating option. It is necessary to build a ventilation duct, select a heat exchanger and a fan. The most efficient way is to direct the hot air from the bottom to the top.

You can also heat the garage using infrared radiation. For this, a heater is bought and connected to the mains. With this method, the heating of the room is achieved within a few minutes. This heating system works even when the garage door is open.

When choosing heating in a garage, they are most often guided by the following important criteria:

• ease of maintenance;
• availability;
• ease of use;
• reliability and efficiency.

Summing up, it should be noted that building a garage is not too difficult, but very responsible. Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the location of the building, because it must be both convenient and safe.

So, for example, it is not recommended to build a garage in the depths of the yard, as this may complicate the unhindered access to it. In addition, it is better to erect it on a flat surface or an elevation, but in no case in a lowland. Groundwater and precipitation can accumulate there, which will lead to a reduction in its life.

It is better to place the building away from the trees in order to avoid their sudden destruction and germination of roots under the foundation.

You need to think in advance what the design of the garage will be. The choice of building materials, insulation, waterproofing and even finishing, internal and external, will depend on it. It is immediately better to take into account the features of the building, whether it be the presence of a viewing hole or even a cellar, the type of roof.

On a pitched roof, you can build a terrace for relaxation. When choosing a gable, it would be nice to build an attic, an attic or even a full second floor. So you can "kill two birds with one stone" at once: get a reliable home for a personal car and additional living space, for example, to accommodate guests.

It is necessary to correctly draw up a construction project and correctly calculate the required amount of building materials in order to avoid unnecessary expenses.

When building a garage, you must strictly follow the sequence, norms and rules of construction. Do not neglect constant measurements, control of the level and quality of the materials used.

Depending on the cost of construction, you can choose either a more economical version of the roof, gates and finishes, or, if there is such an opportunity, use innovative technologies when choosing gates, heat and waterproofing, heating and cladding of the building.

It is also possible to partially or completely resort to the help of professionals who can competently mount various elements of the building.

Particular attention should be paid to the interior and exterior of the garage. They can combine attractive appearance, protection from harmful environmental factors, ease of installation and even safety in operation.

It is imperative to take into account the presence of communications in the room - electricity, water supply and heating. They can both be combined with common buildings and made autonomous.

Thus, building a garage is a slow process, rather laborious and requires a lot of care and responsibility. But if you follow all the standards, rules and regulations, take into account all sorts of factors, then the end result will be of high quality, durable and convenient. Such a garage will not only be a cozy home for a car, comfortable for repair work and storage of all kinds of tools, but will also become a reason for pride and decoration of a personal plot.

Many people dream of a good and inexpensive garage, especially residents of large cities. Men perceive the garage as their personal place, refuge, shelter. So what is the best way to do this? Let's figure it out.

About preparation

First, I would like to say that it is cheaper to build your own garage than to buy one. Sometimes prices go up to the skies for old and rotten boxes, especially in cities with a population of over one million, where there is an acute shortage of parking spaces.

1. Before building, you definitely need warn the administration of your locality that you are going to build a garage. Be prepared that the authorities may demand money, that's how it works.
2. First you need choose a place... A dry place on a small hillock is perfect so that excess moisture evaporates quickly and puddles do not form. Otherwise, in cold weather you will have to literally punch your way to the entrance.
3. Do not be shy attach your own to another garage, but only with the permission of the owner... It is desirable that the foundation of the future garage be sandy or clay for the subsequent excavation of a place for the basement.
4. When the place is chosen you should start building a basement first... Dig out with an excavator (if you are completely tight with money, then you can do it yourself) the entrance to the basement is one and a half to two meters, and then proceed to level the basement of any shape and size, which you prefer. Then put up concrete walls (concrete is recommended, because wood and other wooden materials will quickly rot), floor and ceiling. The basement is ready.

Garage construction

Now let's move on to the ground part. Start building the walls. Can be used:

• concrete plates;
• strong bricks (white);
• expanded clay blocks;
• profile pipe (for the frame);
• aerated concrete;
• cinder block;
• wood;
• sandwich panels.

Advice! Don't forget to make a small hole in the wall so that excess moisture comes out of the garage in the spring and fall.

Roof, gate and floor

Then you will need to install a strong iron gate, which you can buy or make yourself. After the walls and gates have been erected, you will need to take care of the roof. The roof can be made flat (the easiest option). To do this, place concrete slabs on the wall using a specialized technician.

It is not forbidden to erect a sloped roof. Which is often not recommended, because it is inconvenient to operate, applied to garage structures.

After the walls and roof have been erected, the floor is to be finished. To do this, spread the boards around the perimeter of the entrance to the basement, as if fencing it off. Fill the remaining space with concrete (of course, not in the basement) to the level of the door. After the concrete hardens, you get a garage, or rather "undergrowth".

Critical part: electrical

To turn your creation into a full-fledged garage, you need to supply electricity to it. If the neighbors also do not have power supply, then you can agree with them in order to "chip off" money for the supply of an electric cable.

This procedure is not entirely cheap, and if the neighbors have light, then simply supply electricity to yourself, of course, notifying the administration. Without a counter, the room will not be approved, so you need to take care of the metering device during the connection process.

More specifically about the choice of materials

Here is what material houses for cars are now made of:

Pros: with reliable assembly, a fairly durable design.

Minuses: lifting equipment is needed, whose hourly wage depends on the quick wit of the customer.

1. Brick frame. This is a beautiful, expensive and durable material. It is usually customary to purchase broken brick or low-grade material for garages. Well, for a private house, where everything should be "right-handed", they buy an additional type of facing bricks.

Separate buildings require additional insulation. Therefore, the wall will be at least 2 bricks (from 25 cm in thickness or more).

The difficulty is as follows: the need for a solid foundation. It is under the brick wall that a monolith with reinforced meshes is poured.

Pros: no need for interior decoration. The pristine look is already a modern classic.

1. and expanded clay blocks. The newest cement-based materials, better than bricks. It's not just about price. Indeed, according to their characteristics, they perfectly retain heat. The construction process itself does not take much time. Why is that? Both types of building materials are large in size and relatively light in weight.

The design feature is only in the reinforced belt, which is necessary for the foundation of any garage roof.

It's easier with the foundation: shallow tape type is sufficient. From which blocks to choose specifically - it is better to decide at the construction site.

Pros: not inferior to brick, the total weight is much lighter, a consumable at low cost. You don't need much effort.

The exception to the rule is flame retardant impregnation. Will give fireproof properties to any wood. And if the building is planned to be multifunctional (there is also a storage room, a workshop or even a bathhouse next to the garage), then it is the processed tree that is best suited. On the site or in the country - the very thing.

1. Profile pipe and plastic panels. These are materials for express construction. It is also applicable here. A garage made of sandwich panels and a shaped pipe will be very cheap at a price, but it is assembled less than a day... The longest time is to tinker with the base - a concrete platform for an ordinary box for a car (it is faster to bring and lay an ordinary old concrete slab or several). Using modern, inexpensive materials, car owners receive unheated containers for their private cars.

But everything can be solved, and such a structure can be easily insulated with mineral wool, and the interior of the garage will already be created with asbestos-cement sheets or OSB (based on foam).

The cons are as follows: you need a welding machine and experience with it.

Pros: there are many ready-made plastic structures on sale that can be delivered to the place or assembled by the hands of installers.

1. Metal carcass. It's about sheet steel. A garage without experience in welding cannot be done with your own hands, but a good friend for a modest price will do everything beautifully. For your information, an iron box for a car is much cheaper than a brick or concrete one.

Minuses: thermal conductivity of the metal. Without insulation and heating devices, you cannot create comfortable conditions even for a car.

Budget insulation

If you are going to be in the garage for a long time, then insulate the walls with glass wool and surround it with chipboard sheets, and also install the stove, having previously made a hole in the ceiling for the pipe.

This approach only applies to options from refractory materials. Wood and plastic are a separate situation, and such materials need to be insulated in several stages.

For example, it is not advisable to sheathe a tree (timber or timber) from the inside with glass wool. Natural material for building a garage loves clay, less toxic insulation. Inexpensively sheathed with the same board.

For plastic panels, special sheets are sold with a stainless steel front.

Let's walk on the roof

In other words, on the roof. There are two types:

Both options are the most budgetary types, although even in the garage it is possible to come up with something unusual (dovecote, sentry box, and much more).

1. For the base, a concrete slab is ideal at all times. It is placed on the walls at a slight angle, otherwise there will be no water in the off-season.

During the installation process, there are always joints between the slabs, it is not difficult to coat them with cement mortar, and then foamed from the inside.

Outside, several layers of roofing material, overlapped with an overlapping burner, are enough.

Pros: in comparison with the gable, it is 20 percent more profitable.

1. Go to work: timber, empty concrete slabs (voids)... On the inside of the ceiling, plywood or lining is enough. For the rafter system, boards from 4 cm thick are enough. The lathing is cheapest to make from unedged boards with wane removed. Nothing better has been invented under the roof than slate sheets made of asbestos cement.

Pros: ceiling insulation. It is easy to fill the garage from above with sawdust, slag, earth.

Results of construction and selection of materials

Which one is better to build a garage is, of course, not for us to decide. But the calculations are as follows:

1. Fastest option for a garage Is a sandwich panel with insulation.
2. Cheap, easy and practical- foam blocks with reinforcement under the roof.
3. Acceptable and heavy, but aesthetically pleasing Is a structure made of treated wood.
4. Expensive, long, but for life- a brick garage with a thick wall and concrete floor.
5. Prefabricated options, like already assembled boxes, are not suitable everywhere, because there is a minimum of reliability in them.

The garage will be thought out in great detail, if possible without adjusting to the materials available from the main construction site.

Important! Let the frame be even of the oldest, ugliest, but workable brick. This approach has helped more than one family to protect a private house in the event of a fire.

Budget garage from scrap materials

The video below has received a record number of views in its topic. Not surprising. The author shows how to build a garage from pallets. The construction site took 2 months, and the materials at hand were used for the construction.