Growing garden roses: care technology. Rose - the queen of flowers: planting and care in the open field Transplanting and caring for roses in the garden

Flowers are living art and the rose is the queen of flowers. Its aroma and variety of shapes of inflorescences awaken in us all the most delicate and beautiful. Many would like to have a rose bush in their area, they look with envy at how these queens shine with their beauty in their neighbors, but they are afraid of "difficulties" and leave their hopes of getting such a beauty in their dreams. In fact, in growing a rose, the most important secrets are desire and courage. What should you consider when planting a rose bush? Let's find out.

Rose Grace by David Austin. © David Austin Content:

Choosing a place and preparing the soil for planting roses

For roses, open, well-lit areas protected from the wind are preferred. Before planting, you need to prepare the soil well. The soil is considered well prepared if it contains enough nutrients, humus and there are no pests in it. Before you start planting roses, the site is planned, divided into quarters, the planting material is disassembled by varieties, and the planting tool is prepared.

When to plant roses?

You can have excellent planting material, prepare the soil well and even take good care of the roses, but if they are improperly planted, the vitality and productivity of the bushes, the quality of the flowers will be much lower than with the correct planting. The main task of planting is to ensure full survival. The timing of planting roses is determined by the climatic conditions of the area. You can plant roses in spring and autumn. Autumn planting pays off in protecting plants from cold and moisture. Roses planted at this time develop much better than those planted in spring.

Soak rose roots in nutrient solution. © David Austin

The best planting time - before the onset of constant frost - ensures root survival. Under favorable conditions, 10-12 days after planting roses in autumn, small young white roots are formed on the roots, which, before the onset of frost, have time to harden and turn brown, that is, they take the form of active growth root hairs. In this form, the bushes winter well, and in the spring both the root and aerial parts of the plants begin to develop immediately.

Sometimes in the south, the buds of newly planted roses begin to sprout in the fall. This should not be feared. In this case, the growing green shoot is pinched after the formation of the third leaf. If the third leaf has not yet formed, but frosts are expected, then the growing green shoot is pinched so that a 5-10 mm long stalk remains from its base.

Usually in autumn there are more opportunities to purchase good planting material for roses. Having received it at the end of September, it is quite possible to plant - with the appropriate shelter for the winter, the roses will not disappear. Having received roses in late autumn, it is better to dig them in for winter storage, for example, in a layer of slightly moistened sand (40-50 cm) in a basement with a temperature from 0 to minus 2 ° C. The room should not be dry, otherwise it is periodically sprayed with water to a relative humidity of 70-80%.

You can store the planting material outdoors in a trench or pit under a canopy. The trench is arranged so that there is a gap of 5-10 cm between the soil and the shelter, through which air must pass. The trench is covered with boards from above. In severe frosts, leaves, needles or soil are piled on the boards. It is even better to use an air-dry storage method for wintering roses.

Digging up the ground at the rose planting site. © David Austin

We loosen the soil. © David Austin

We dig a hole for planting a rose bush. © David Austin

In the spring, you should not be late with planting roses. From the strong heating of the soil by the sun, the water from the tissues of the plant quickly evaporates and the roots take root poorly. If the seedlings of roses have dried up a little, that is, the green bark on the shoots is wrinkled, for one day the material is immersed in water, after which it is dropped into moist soil in the shade before planting.

If during the shipment the rose seedlings are frozen, then they are placed in a package in a cool room for thawing.

Processing roses before planting

Before planting, the stems and roots are trimmed so that the number of shoots remaining corresponds to the number of roots remaining. This is due to the fact that a huge part of the roots is lost during excavation and transportation. In the initial period of growth, small roots cannot provide nutrition for the entire vegetative mass of newly planted rose bushes. After removing excess shoots, the remaining one to three are shortened to 10-12 cm, leaving two or three dormant buds on each. Such pruning will ensure a good survival rate of the seedlings. Often they do not do this, as a result, a large loss of seedlings occurs.

We plant a rose observing the level. © David Austin

Planting roses

When planting on pre-cultivated soil, plowed or dug up to 50-60 cm, the distance between the rows is left in accordance with the dimensions of the processing agricultural implements - 80-100 cm, the distance in the row depending on the variety, the power of the bush is 30-60 cm. Dimensions planting pits or trenches are chosen such that the roots could be freely placed on the earthen roller.

When planting in non-planted areas, pits 40-50 cm in size are arranged. When digging such holes, the upper nutrient layer of soil 25 cm thick is laid separately from the lower one. Then add to the top layer: organic fertilizers (better rotted cow dung) - 8 kg per planting pit, superphosphate - 25 g each, potassium fertilizers - 10 g each. The missing amount of soil is taken from the lower layer. All this is mixed well.

The bottom of the pit is covered with rotted manure by 10 cm and dug onto the bayonet of a shovel, after which it is covered with soil in such a way that a roller of soil is formed on which the roots are laid.

Then fill in the rest of the soil, slightly shaking the roots to evenly place them in the soil. To prevent air voids from forming around the roots, the soil is slightly compacted after planting, making a small hole around the bush so that the water does not spread during watering. Water at the rate of 10 liters per bush. The next day after planting, the budding site should be 3-4 cm below the soil horizon. If it is lower, then the bush should be lifted with a shovel and the soil should be poured under it. If the bush turned out to be above the set mark, it is lowered.

We trample the ground around the rose bush and water. © David Austin

After two to three days, the soil is loosened to a depth of 3 cm and the bush is covered with soil to the level of the cut of the shoots, that is, by 10 cm. As soon as the buds begin to develop, the soil is removed from the shoots. Newly planted roses, until normal leaves develop on them, are useful to spray early in the morning or in the evening before sunset (so that the leaves have time to dry).

Let's find out in more detail what a climbing rose is. Planting and caring for this wonderful flower in the open field will be discussed in stages in this article. Correct planting is the key to abundant and long-term flowering. How to care for climbing roses? Summer residents and gardeners appreciate the weaving variety of roses. They know that with the help of climbing roses, you can turn even the most modest site into a beautiful romantic corner.

Climbing roses, description

The shoots of climbing roses can reach several meters. Any support located in the immediate vicinity of the bush is quickly braided by its long and flexible branches. You have probably admired the amazingly beautiful flower arches more than once. Floral columns, pyramids, trellises, well-disguised old buildings, part of a wall or a roof - any garden structure can be decorated with a luxurious climbing rose. This type of plant is ideal for vertical gardening, but in order for everything to look harmonious and attractive, you should know the rules for planting, pruning, caring for and protecting bushes from pests.

The color scheme of this type of roses is as diverse as that of their park or ground cover relatives. Buds range in size from 2.5 to 12 cm in diameter, climbing rose varieties bloom in June and continue to bloom as long as the warm season lasts (approximately 30-170 days, depending on the variety). There are many varieties of climbing roses, but all of them can be divided into groups:

Semi-plaited, whose height reaches 1.5-3 meters.
Climbing - 3-5 meters.
Curly - 5-15 meters.

The shoots of these roses are formed continuously, the phases of budding and flowering differ, again, depending on the variety. Among these representatives there are both single-flowering species and re-flowering species.

Climbing rose, photo:

The buds of certain varieties can exude a pronounced aroma that is heard from a distance, some of them smell slightly audible, subtle and gentle.

How to plant a climbing rose, choosing a place

This culture will feel great in sunny places with good ventilation. Wetlands are strictly contraindicated for it, as are sandstones and heavy clay soil. In general, loose loam or fertile soils with good soil permeability are most suitable for this type of roses. If your site is dominated by an unsuitable soil for a climbing rose, then be sure to dilute it with a suitable one. Thus, sand is added to the clay soil, and clay is added to the sandy soil (to a depth of about 30 cm), in addition to this, humus or humus should be added, as well as phosphorus additives.

All procedures for adapting the land must be carried out six months before planting roses, or at least 2 months before that. Experienced gardeners recommend planting climbing roses where their counterparts have not previously grown. If it doesn't work out in another way, then before planting you need to replace the top layer of the earth (by 50-70 cm). Ideally, a climbing rose should be planted on a small hill. The root system of these plants goes deep into the soil (up to 2 meters), so you should make sure in advance that the groundwater at the chosen place does not pass close to the upper soil layer.

If you decide to "drape" a part of the house wall with a climbing rose, then the distance between the bush and the wall should be at least 60 cm (and at least half a meter from other plants). Most often, a climbing rose is planted in the last weeks of September or in the first half of October. Thus, before the onset of a serious cold snap, the roots will have time to take root in a new place. With the arrival of spring, all parts of the plant will enter a phase of active development and growth, and by the beginning of summer the rose will bloom in lush color. If a climbing rose is planted in the ground in spring, then by this time it should warm up to at least +10 ° C, catch the moment when the buds have not yet blossomed - this is important. The second half of April / first weeks of May are the most optimal times for spring planting.

Planting a climbing rose when it's best in spring or autumn

I will make a reservation right away that the rules for spring planting of seedlings are not much different from autumn ones. You should be prepared for the fact that the roses planted in spring will lag slightly in development, require increased attention from you to your person. Compared to their autumn counterparts, they can delay flowering by about 10 days.

All stages described, as well as subsequent care, are applied both in spring and autumn.

So, before planting, the seedling needs to shorten the branches, up to about 20 cm in length, the roots - too, up to 30 cm.
Dig a large hole so the roots have room to grow. The depth of the pit should be 60-70 cm.
If you are planting several bushes, then the distance between them should be at least 100 cm. When immersing the seedling in the soil, make sure that the root collar is also buried 12-15 cm - this will protect it from frost in the cold season.
The roots are carefully straightened, covered with soil, slightly compacted with your hands. Make sure that all the roots are pointing down and not bending up!
Planting a climbing rose in spring provides for the introduction of nutritious soil into the hole. About 3-5 kg, for example, peat compost, will appeal to your rose.
After planting, the soil is trampled down a little and watered abundantly.
It will be very good if you add a preparation with beneficial bacteria that stimulates growth, for example, "Phosphobacterin" to the water for this first watering. Phytohormone "Heteroauxin" is also great.

In some cases, summer residents cover newly planted bushes with plastic wrap - this technique contributes to better adaptation of plants in a new place. It is up to you to decide whether to do it or not, if the weather conditions in your region push you to create greenhouse conditions for climbing roses, then do not forget to lift the film daily and gradually increase the airing time every day. After stable warm weather is established, remove the film and cover the ground around the bushes with leaf humus, peat, chopped bark or straw.

How to plant a climbing rose in the spring, bought in a store?

Today in flower shops you can buy climbing rose seedlings with open or closed root systems.

Representatives with open roots should be immediately planted in the ground. When choosing, pay attention to the presence of lignified shoots - there should be at least two of them. Such a shoot must be ripe (bend with a crunch), otherwise the rose may not withstand wintering. The bush as a whole should look healthy, have well-developed roots, strong, without dried out fragments. The length of the shoots should be at least 60-70 cm.

Climbing roses with a closed root system are sold in pots, so you cannot immediately assess the condition of the roots. Carefully examine the shoots, they should look healthy, not very elongated, if they are light green in color, then it is better to refrain from buying.

The elongation of the shoots and their light shade indicate improper storage of seedlings - either in excessive heat or in insufficient lighting. Such a rose will be weak, painful, unlikely to survive the winter.

You should also pay close attention to the grafting sites; a properly grafted cutting should have callus tissue at the "joint" site, which promotes fusion. If the graft site is peeling and looks unhealthy, then with such a rose you will only have problems.

Planting a climbing rose from a store in spring, steps:

A rose with a closed root system is carefully removed from the pot along with an earthen lump, and then planted in the chosen place. For representatives with an open root system, remove the film from the roots, place them in water. If there are buds or shoots below the grafting site, remove them. If there is wild growth, we also remove it, too long shoots can be pinched. Do not forget to powder the cut points with charcoal or activated charcoal.
The roots should be in the water for 3-4 hours, so the plant will be saturated with moisture, the transport soil will become soft, it can be easily removed and the root system should be carefully examined. Stimulant "Kornevin" can be added to the water (according to the instructions).
We take the roses out of the water, gently straighten the roots as possible and place the seedling in the dug hole. About what the pit should be and how to mix the soil (if the situation requires it) has already been described a little higher. Water the rose well.
After the water is absorbed, you can add more earth (spud). When re-filling the soil, the grafting site can be covered with a layer of soil, but not more than 3 cm.
If the spring sun is shining too brightly, do not be too lazy to cover the young bush with a paper bag or a cloth of light shades - so it is guaranteed not to burn out. This protective coating can be left on for 5-7 days.

Climbing roses, care and cultivation

In heat and drought, rose bushes should be watered once every five days. After 20 days after planting, you need to carefully shake off the soil from the bush. By the way, roses planted in autumn are also opened after winter in the first weeks of April. For this procedure, it is advisable to choose a non-sunny day so that later the plant does not experience stress during the nighttime temperature drop. Make sure that the grafting site remains about 10 cm buried in the soil.

During the growing season, the climbing rose requires generous watering. After the buds appear, as well as after the formation of the bush, the plant should be watered every 10 days. In this case, water should penetrate to the very roots and deeper, 10-12 liters per one bush will be quite enough. A couple of days after rain or watering, you need to loosen the soil around the rose. It can also be mulched. For roses, both waterlogging and lack of moisture are equally harmful, so observe the golden mean in this matter.

Climbing rose, photo:

How to fertilize climbing roses

Fertilization is an important step in the care of a climbing rose, because this species is quite picky about feeding. Throughout the summer, nitrogen supplements should be alternated with complex fertilizers; it is recommended to apply them every 2-3 weeks. With the onset of spring, the plant is fed with a complex mineral fertilizer, for example - Agricola-Rose (according to the instructions). After two or three weeks, you can add organic matter - fertilizer "Ideal" or "Flower". You can also use the old proven method - 10 liters of mullein and 3 kg of wood ash, diluted in 50 liters of water. It is recommended to dilute one liter of this mixture in 10 liters of water, and then water the plant with the resulting composition at the very root. From about the second week of July, you can begin to slowly add phosphorus and potassium supplements in order to prepare the bushes in advance for the coming winter. Carefully read the dosage of drugs in the instructions, remember that by overfeeding the rose with chemistry, you can simply ruin it.

Caring for a climbing rose in the first year of planting

How does it differ from standard requirements? The further development and splendor of flowering depends on competent care in the first year of a plant's life. When new shoots appear, the soil is removed from the bushes (the one that was used for hilling). If there are sunny days, then at first, light shading with coniferous spruce branches will not hurt. After 10-12 days after removing the hilling soil, you can start the first pruning of the central shoot. It should be shortened over the second or third sheet. A little later, with the lateral branches of the second order, you need to do a similar procedure, while the eyes "looking" inside the bush must be removed, and those eyes that are located on the outside are left for further correct formation of the bush.

Caring for a climbing rose in the first year also involves removing the buds, as odd as it sounds. From the beginning of flowering until the first weeks of August, it is recommended to leave only two flowers on each branch. With the arrival of autumn, these flowers will turn into boxes with seeds (fruits), and after the manipulations carried out, your rose will bloom especially magnificently next year.

Pruning climbing roses or how to prune a climbing rose

Is the climbing rose pruned in the fall for the winter? If other types of roses can be simply spud, then the climbing one must be covered completely - this factor does not depend on your region of residence. You can choose one of the methods of thermal insulation, in the first case, the ground part of the bush is removed from the support, the foliage is removed, and all weak and old shoots are cut off.

Here you have to choose 10-12 of the strongest and healthiest branches (remaining after pruning), combine them into one bundle, rewind with twine and gently tilt them to the ground. With the help of metal brackets (we cut the wire into fragments and bend), the branches are fixed to the ground, and then they are covered with an appropriate protective material. If there are several shrubs, they are located in close proximity to each other, then they can be covered with one common covering canvas. In the second case, everything happens in a similar way, only in this case the plant is not removed from the support, but reliably wrapped with protective material directly on it. The base of the bush is spud up as described above.

How to prune a climbing rose? Special attention should be paid to this important agrotechnical maintenance measure. Pruning helps to shape the crown of the plant, promotes generous and long-lasting flowering, and has a positive effect on the health and vitality of the climbing rose. Immediately after planting, all shoots are shortened by 20-30 cm; in the summer, faded buds and branches growing inside the crown (thickening it) are cut off.

From the second year of the plant's life, branches are pruned at the end of the flowering phase.

How to prune climbing roses after flowering? They fade around the end of August - September (depending on the climate in the region), at this time all diseased and dead branches should be removed. The oldest shoots (choose 1 or 2) are cut off completely, subsequently they will be successfully replaced by young basal processes. If these processes are absent, then the old branches should be measured about 40 cm from the base, and the rest should be removed - this procedure is aimed at activating the growth of replacing basal branches.

The rest (not very old) shoots are cut off in the place where a new powerful growth began to form, subsequently it will act as a guide. Short peduncle branches are cut to 2 or 3 buds (about 15-17 cm from the base of the branch), weak stems are cut to 3 buds (we also measure from the base). The skeleton (base) of the crown should be formed from the strongest, correctly growing shoots (evenly directed), on which young branches will then form.

How to prune a climbing rose in the spring? You should pick up the pruning shears when the buds begin to swell on the branches from below (last weeks of April / early May), not earlier. If you start pruning too early, then with night frosts, the branches may simply freeze, as a result of which the rose will bloom much later than the due date. If you miss the pruning time, then the plant will throw all its energy into the formation of new branches and foliage, and the flowering will be poor.

Pruning climbing roses in spring has one important point - removal, namely, cutting off (not cutting) wild shoots that have grown below the grafting site. Usually this situation becomes apparent after the spring opening of the bushes. Also at this time, all sick, frozen branches are removed, all affected fragments are clearly visible in the spring, when buds swell on the “living” branches.

Transplanting a climbing rose to another place

Sometimes, out of inexperience, the gardener chooses an unsuccessful place where the plant feels uncomfortable and sick. In such cases, the situation can be corrected by transplanting. The best time to carry out this operation is autumn, September or the first weeks of October. It is not recommended to transplant later, since the rose needs time to adapt to a new place of residence before the onset of cold weather.

However, if circumstances require it, transplanting a climbing rose to another place is also possible. As soon as the ground thaws after the winter frosts, and the buds on the branches of roses have not yet had time to wake up, you can get down to business. To do this, the ground part of the plant is removed from the support, the bush itself is carefully dug in (moving in a circular manner), about 50-60 cm recede from the base of the plant.Do everything very carefully so as not to damage the root system of the rose, let the hole be deeper than necessary, but the roots will remain intact.

When replanting, the same rules are observed as with a standard planting - the roots are straightened and directed downward, the free space in the pit is filled with the appropriate soil mixture, the soil is lightly tamped and watered generously with water.

After 3-4 days, you should fill up the earth (it will settle slightly), spud your rose.

There is one interesting nuance associated with transplanting roses - their belonging to the climber and rambler groups. I will allow myself a small digression: all varieties of climbing roses can be figuratively divided into these two groups:

climbers;
ramblers.

Climbing varieties of climbing roses are called climbing, they form rough and thick branches that can reach 3-5 m in length. Climber shoots are not very flexible; when transplanting, they must be cut to half of their entire length!

Rambler are just curly roses with flexible and soft shoots-lashes, the length of which can reach 10 meters. Rambler roses are characterized by active growth; when transplanted, all shoots that are more than two years old are cut off. All young branches are left intact, but at the end of the calendar summer they are sure to pinch the tops - this technique accelerates the lignification of the branches.

How to propagate a climbing rose?

There are four ways to propagate this rose: seeds, layers, cuttings and grafting. The most common and convenient option is grafting. Seed propagation is only possible if the seed is purchased at the appropriate store. As you know, self-collected seeds from climbing roses growing in your country house or in your garden do not carry the varietal characteristics of the mother plant.

Growing a climbing rose from seeds

Pre-soak the seeds in 3% hydrogen peroxide for 30 minutes. Such disinfection creates a shield against the appearance of mold in the subsequent stages of plant growth. After we remove the seeds from the solution, spread them on a thin layer of cotton wool, again soaked in hydrogen peroxide, cover it with a similar cotton layer on top, which is also saturated with peroxide.

Place the resulting "sandwich" in a plastic bag and hide in the refrigerator, in the compartment for herbs and vegetables. We periodically inspect the seeds, change the cotton layers to new ones (also saturated with hydrogen peroxide).

After 40-50 days, the already germinated seed can be gently transferred into peat tablets or small plastic cups with the appropriate soil mixture. Seedling cassettes are also fine.

Watering young shoots should be done as the soil dries up. For plants to develop correctly, they need to provide daily light for 10 hours. If you do everything right, then a couple of months after planting the seeds in tablets or cassettes, the first buds may appear on young roses. With the arrival of spring, new livestock are planted in open ground.

Reproduction of a climbing rose by cuttings

This is the easiest breeding method, almost always giving 100% positive results. For cutting cuttings, already faded or still flowering branches, which are taken from a rose in the very middle of summer, in the 10th of July, are suitable for you.

The cut fragment should have at least two internodes, the place of the lower cut (45º angle) should be located close to the kidney. The upper cut (flat) is carried out at a considerable distance from the kidney.

Further, all the lower leaves are cut off from the cutting, and the upper ones are cut in half. A cutting is placed in a previously prepared container with sand or with a mixture of sand and soil, buried by about 1-2 cm, covered with a glass jar on top and removed to a well-lit place.

Now you will need to periodically water the cutting (without removing the cans) and make sure that it does not come into direct sunlight.

Reproduction of a climbing rose by layering

In the spring, from the shoots growing from below, we choose the most attractive one and make cuts on it, right under the buds. Next, we make out a small bed-groove about 10 cm wide, put a thin layer of humus on the bottom of the groove, sprinkle it on top with the same layer of soil. Now we carefully bend the shoot, put it in the groove and fix it with metal brackets. After that, we cover the shoot with soil, but leave the top looking out. Then, as usual, we take care of the bush, but do not forget to water and fertilize the place of the buried shoot. After a year, when spring comes, the layers can be cut off from the bush and planted in a separate place as a full-fledged plant.

Propagation of roses by grafting (budding) on \u200b\u200brose hips

A climbing rose can be grafted onto a rose hip bush - this technique is often used by gardeners and summer residents. The best time for this operation is the last weeks of July or the first half of August. Before budding, the dog rose should be watered generously with water.

Directly on the root collar of the bush, an incision is made in the bark in the form of a "T", after which the edges of the bark are slightly pulled back. This kind of "pocket" holds a peephole cut from a climbing rose. The peephole must be separated from the rose along with the bark and a small piece of wood.

Next, we tightly press the eye to the neck of the stock and also tightly wrap this place with a special film for budding (freely sold in flower shops). After all the manipulations, the rose hip bush is huddled up, and so that the soil rises 5 cm above the grafting site (this is the minimum). After two to three weeks, the film can be slightly weakened, and with the arrival of a new spring, it is removed for good.

Climbing rose does not bloom - why?

This can also happen, at least on flower forums, gardeners often ask each other a similar question. Experimentally, 7 factors were found out that affect the absence of flowers in climbing roses.

Climbing rose - diseases and pests

Caterpillar of a rose-cut sawfly on a rose

Rose infested with spider mites

At the initial stage, aphids can be manually removed from the branches, after putting on garden gloves, but as soon as it feels like a full owner, you will need the help of chemicals. Insecticides "Sharpei", "Aktara", "Inta-Vir", as well as the good old "Karbofos" are guaranteed to help you cope with this problem.

If you want to try the so-called folk methods of struggle, then grate laundry soap (1 tbsp. L.) And dissolve it in 1 liter of water. Irrigate rose bushes with this solution for a week, after which remove all affected fragments - it should help.

A spider mite loves heat and drought, a silvery coating on foliage is a sign of the presence of an intruder. The old methods of struggle with the help of thick tobacco infusion or wormwood broth give very good results. Contact ascaricide "Neoron" is one of the best means of protecting roses from spider mites. One ml of the drug is dissolved in a liter of water, after which the bushes are irrigated. Sometimes it is enough to treat roses twice with this preparation for the tick to give up its positions. Bio-insecticide "Fitoverm" also proved to be excellent in this matter.

According to the reviews of experienced gardeners, the drug "Aktara" works great against rose sawfly. Preparations "Aktellik" and "Phosbecid" (15 ml per 10 liters of water) also show a good result, which extends not only to the sawfly, but also to other "lovers" of climbing roses.

In addition to all of the above, I would like to remind you of the spring and autumn spraying of roses with Bordeaux liquid - this is important.

Among the diseases of climbing roses, the most dangerous are: bacterial cancer, gray mold, powdery mildew, coniotirium (burned bark).

Powdery mildew

Bacterial cancer

There is no cure for some diseases (bacterial cancer), but taking prevention seriously will minimize the risk of the disease.

Disinfection of the root system in a solution of 3% copper sulfate (before planting), removal of suspicious fragments and rapid irrigation of wound sites with the same copper sulfate are the most often recommended preventive measures.

The defeat of the coniotirium can be detected in the spring, as soon as the protective cover is removed from the roses. In this case, you must immediately cut off diseased branches (with the capture of healthy fragments) and burn them. Until the buds awaken, the plant can be treated with three percent iron sulfate; the ground around the bush must be watered too. The same Bordeaux liquid or the drug "Abiga-Peak" can also participate in the case while the buds have not yet blossomed.

In principle, to combat other rose diseases, the usual scheme works - the removal of the affected areas and their subsequent burning, abundant irrigation of the plant with a solution of ferrous sulfate (3%), copper sulfate (2%) or Bordeaux liquid (3%). Such spraying is often carried out in three stages (at weekly intervals), but sometimes, especially at an early stage, one treatment may be enough.

Climbing roses - photos and names of winter-hardy varieties

The dream of any gardener is that your favorite flowers delight the eyes with lush buds for as long as possible and endure wintering staunchly. It is simply unrealistic to mention all winter-hardy and long-blooming varieties of climbing roses, but I would like to highlight some of them, briefly describe their main qualities.

Climbing rose "Iceberg"

It fully lives up to its name, its snow-white buds will bloom for a very long time (until autumn) and abundantly. Repeated blooming is a distinctive feature of this rose, it grows rather quickly and in the shortest possible time can braid an arch or a wall of a building. The plant is unpretentious, cold-resistant, the aroma is weak.

Variety "Iceberg", photo:

Climbing rose "Lavinia"

It boasts cup-shaped flowers of a rich pink hue, undemanding to care, re-blooming, aroma with light Muscat notes. It grows up to 3 m in height, has good immunity to most rose diseases, blooms continuously until the first frost.

Variety "Lavinia", photo:

Variety "Polka"

It is characterized by undulating flowering, approximately five waves per summer. Terry buds, apricot shade, gradually turning into cream color. He loves sunlit places very much, has good disease resistance, can grow up to 3 m in height. This variety has powerful and spreading shoots with large thorns, weak aroma.

Photo of a climbing rose of the "Polka" variety:

Climbing rose "Don Juan"

Luxurious double rose with large (12 cm in diameter) flowers of deep red color. It is an excellent option for decorating the walls of buildings and any vertical supports. It grows up to 3.5 m in height, loves the sun, but also blooms without problems in partial shade. These roses can be cut to make bouquets, they are very fragrant and keep fresh for a long time.

Variety "Don Juan", photo:

Variety "Flamentants"

This rose is considered one of the most attractive red climbing roses. Her buds are large (8 cm in diameter), double, multi-petal. Possesses increased frost resistance, powerful bushes can reach 2-3 m in height. With proper care, this variety can grow and bloom in one place for about 20 years. The aroma of the rose is very delicate, but not very pronounced.

Photo of roses "Flamement":

Climbing rose "Handel"

The buds of this variety have a very interesting color - white-pink, with bright crimson edges and a slightly yellowish center. The buds are large, about 10 cm in diameter, the bush grows to 2.5-3 m in height. The rose is multi-blooming, disease resistance is average, one should beware of black spot and ash.

Variety "Handel", photo:

Variety "Bobby James"

Small-flowered representative, but the most attractive in its category. Can reach 8 m in height, resistant to disease, semi-double white flowers with a yellow center (about 4.5 cm in diameter), outwardly resemble cherry flowers. It has a pronounced musky aroma; during flowering, the branches are simply covered with buds, so that behind them you can hardly see the foliage. The buds themselves have the ability to slowly open over about 10-12 days. A spectacular and incredibly luxurious variety

Photo of a rose variety "Bobby James":

Climbing rose "Golden Perfume"

A re-flowering variety whose flowers bloom slowly, to the delight of gardeners. The large buds (up to 10 cm in diameter) of this rose exude a very strong aroma that can be heard even from afar. Flowers of a rich bright yellow hue will adorn the bush until the arrival of the first frost. The shoots grow up to 2-3 m in height, the foliage also looks very attractive - rich green, dense, creating a beautiful contrast with yellow flowers.

Variety "Golden Perfume", photo:

Variety "Parade"

One of the most winter-hardy re-flowering climbing roses, it has large (10 cm in diameter) multi-petal buds of a juicy cherry shade or rich dark pink. Luxurious inflorescences are so large and heavy that the shoots literally bend from their weight. It blooms throughout the summer, blooms slowly, reaches 2-3.5 m in height, resistant to precipitation.

Roses of the "Parade" variety, photo:

Climbing rose "Schwanensee"

Another variety with increased cold resistance. The multi-petal buds of this rose have a classic shape, medium size (7-9 cm in diameter) and a very delicate color - white, with a creamy pink heart. Schwannensee blooms until the very frost, slowly blooming and spreading a delicate refined aroma. The variety is hardy, multi-flowering, rain-resistant. The bush can reach 3 m in height.

Variety "Schwannensee", photo:

Variety "Casino"

This rose is suitable for cutting into a bouquet, has a bright fruity aroma, lemon-colored buds are most beautiful when loose. A multi-petal variety, the diameter of a double flower reaches 9-11 cm, its color is darker inside, the outer petals are paler. The bush grows up to 3-4 m in height, blooms profusely, luxuriantly, repeatedly throughout the summer.

Climbing rose of the "Casino" variety, photo:

Of course, a climbing rose will require an investment of time and effort from you, but you must agree that its luxurious beauty fully justifies such "sacrifices." Follow all the above recommendations, carefully consider the choice of residence for the rose.

Do not plant it near bushes and trees with powerful roots, do not forget to feed it with appropriate fertilizers in time.

Provide her with reliable support, the types of which I will tell you about in the next article.

Let a climbing rose also settle on your site. Planting and care in the open field, the nuances of reproduction and transplantation, a rough idea of \u200b\u200bindividual varieties - you now know all this and you can apply my advice in practice.

The following videos will successfully complement the article:

Roses are noble ornamental plants that have been prized for centuries. They are planted in palace gardens, parks and private plots, and are loved for their aroma, appearance, graceful beauty, especially appreciated by women. Due to its many advantages, many want to plant a garden rose. Unfortunately, the advantages they offer us come at a price.

Roses are quite demanding plants that are generously thanked for the effort and money invested in caring for them. These are exquisite plants, the richness of which tempts each of us to find our favorite variety. In the article below, we present the proven varieties of what a rose looks like, care and cultivation in the garden so that it grows healthy, beautiful.

Growing garden roses

There are many varieties of roses in the world. Their classification covers 5 groups, which differ in terms of decorative parameters:

large-flowered;
multicolor;
park;
ground cover;
climbing.

You can also distinguish a group of historical roses and wild ones.

Photo. Lovely climbing roses

Photo. Large-flowered roses

Choosing a landing site

First of all, you need to find out where it is best to plant roses on the site in order to provide them with the best soil and climatic conditions. More precisely, the optimal conditions are described in the cultivation instructions for a particular variety. However, there are general guidelines.

Rose loves sunny places very much. At the same time, it is not necessary that it be illuminated all day, and constantly be under the scorching rays of the sun, but the flowers will not bloom in the shade.
The soil should be well permeable, fertile, preferably sandy loam.
Plants require some space in order for their planting site to be blown out, this will protect them from fungal diseases.
Because of their seasonal decorativeness, it is best to combine them with evergreens, which will represent a presentational green background.

Photo. In a sunny place, roses will bloom profusely

When is the best time to plant roses?

As you know, many plants are best planted during dormancy. When to plant roses in autumn or spring? This plant is best planted at the turn of October and November, but before the first frost. Another optimal planting time is late March - early April.

You can buy ordinary seedlings with a normal root system and a lump of substrate that will not damage the roots when planting. Plants bought in pots are not as demanding on planting dates as traditional seedlings, they can be planted even in summer.

How to plant roses correctly?

Moisten the root block. At the bare root system, we prune the roots, significantly reducing them - up to 20 cm in length.
Cooking a hole - you can add fertile soil.
We plant the plant, distribute the roots evenly, check its vertical position.
Gradually sprinkle the plant with earth, water it, check its location and water it again. We repeat the steps several times until the hole is filled.
We fill in a mound, which helps to keep water within the reach of the roots.

How to prune roses correctly?

Roses are best pruned in spring, then we can estimate how much damage is caused by winter frosts, if there is damage. In addition, plants that are not cut before winter tolerate low temperatures better.

Large-flowered and multi-colored varieties should be pruned at a height of 20 cm above the ground, and the remaining varieties should be pruned as needed - removing frozen and diseased shoots.

How to prune a rose after flowering? You can also prune after flowering, removing dried flowers, which will cause new flowering.

Photo. Pruning faded flowers enhances flowering

Care, pest and disease control

Roses require a fertile substrate - so they must be fertilized, preferably twice a year - in early spring, and again when they bloom to ensure abundant flowering. There are many fertilizers on the market for roses, which affect not only abundant flowering, but also active growth, beautiful green leaves. Healthy plants are less susceptible to disease.

Roses are most often affected by leaf rust and other fungal diseases. They are also often affected by aphids. Therefore, at the beginning of the growing season, it is advisable to prophylactically spray on them with special chemical preparations, carefully observe and respond to any changes in the state of plants.

If it is a grafted variety, it is necessary to regularly prune the rootstock - a wild rose that often appears at soil level, as it can drown out the grafted part.

Growing roses in the garden, video

Preparing roses for winter

This plant is sensitive to frost, so we must take care of it in winter. Before frosts, the base of the bush should be especially well protected by covering this area with bark or other material for insulation. The grafted forms on the trunk, or climbing roses or large bushes, can be protected with agrofibre and straw sheaves. They are not only effective in winter, but also look quite attractive.

Rose varieties

There is a huge variety of these plants. Let's consider the most popular varieties.

Large-flowered roses

They have the highest decorative qualities. These are single magnificent flowers blooming on a straight stem. Large-flowered rose varieties often have a wonderful scent.

The following large-flowered varieties are also known:

white and cream - "Pascal", "Mounte Shasta", "Papt John XXIII";
red - "Mr. Lincoln", "Dame de Coeur" (Lady of the Heart), "Papa Mayland";
two-color - "Cronenburg", "Neue Revue", "Die Welt";
purple - "Blue Moon", "Charles de Gaulle";
orange - "Flora Danica", "Ave Maria", "Lady";
yellow - "Peace", "Casanova", "Landora".

Multicolor roses

Often used in home gardens and increasingly in urban greenery. Flowers are smaller than large-flowered species in size, but they are more numerous, forming massive clusters on the shoots. Flowers often have a pronounced aroma, bloom very profusely and repeat flowering.

Popular varieties:

The following multiflorous varieties are also known:

white and creamy - "Swany", "Schneewittchen";
red - "Pushta", "Lily Marlene", "Nina Weibull";
orange - "Samba", "Rumba";
pink - "Queen Elizabeth", "Kalinka", Bonica 80;
yellow - "Frisia", "All Gold", "Marselisborg".

Ground cover roses

As the name suggests, they quickly cover the soil with shoots. It is a low, very stable group, does not freeze, does not get sick, does not require maintenance. Roses are decorative thanks to their abundant, slightly more subtle flowers that look very natural and charming.

Popular varieties are:

The following ground cover varieties are also known:

white - "Snow Ballet";
red - "Mercury 2000";
pink - "Sommerwind", "Weneda";
yellow - "Sommermond".

Groundcover roses are easier to care for, grow easily and require less attention than other varieties. The plants are frost-resistant, so unlike other garden roses, they don't need to be protected from it.

The bushes do not require strong pruning - every spring only diseased and damaged shoots should be removed - or wilted flowers should be removed (in autumn, the bush is decorated with numerous coral fruits). In addition, they are generally more disease resistant than other varieties.

Landing... Seedlings are planted in spring or autumn in dug up soil, to which manure or compost (4-8 kg / m²) is added. You can also add fertilizer for roses (recommended by the manufacturer). Most varieties in the garden are planted in the amount of 4 pieces / m², but there are also vigorous varieties that need 2 pieces / m² (for example, "Max Graf", "Weisse Immensee") and weaker varieties, which should be planted in the amount of 5 -6 pieces / m² (for example, "Beautiful Fairy", "Fairy").

Climbing roses

This group is growing faster and stronger. Climbing varieties require reliable support in the form of supports to which the shoots are attached. These varieties often repeat flowering and are very aromatic.

Cultivars worth noting:

The following popular climbing varieties are also known:

white - "Snow White", "Elf";
red - "Flammentanz", "Baikal", "Amadeus", "Dortmund";
pink - "New Dawn", "American Pillar";
yellow - "Golden Rain", "Goldstern".

These varieties belong to the group that requires more time and patience. Sometimes you have to wait 3-4 years or even longer to get the effect of a blooming wall. Plants can climb a pergola or tree by clinging to thorns, however, sometimes they need help in the form of a garter to a support.

Climbing varieties tend to have smaller flowers than large-flowered varieties, but newer varieties are also characterized by fairly large flowers. The assortment has recently expanded significantly, so it is easy to find an option in almost any color.

Climbing varieties are less demanding on soil and relatively resistant to frost, but more vulnerable to damage by pests on leaves and shoots. Climbing varieties are best planted with an existing support such as a trellis or pergola. They can also be planted in a wooden pot with a trellis, in which they will be presented very exquisitely.

Correct and timely pruning is essential. For varieties that bloom once a season, pruning should only be done after the shoots have faded.

Rumblers (Ramblers) with tough shoots, characterized by smaller flowers, are pruned every year, removing the whitened shoots and all the mass of thin long branches growing at the base of the bush. To speed up the growth of the bush, we can only cut off half of the two-year-old shoots that fill the gaps. Heavy pruning in the lower parts of the bush is especially necessary for some varieties (eg Dorothy Perkins) because the plants are easily attacked by powdery mildew, a rose disease that develops when the leaves are wet for a long time.

Climbing rose varieties that repeat flowering do not require as much pruning. It is enough to remove the oldest or very thin shoots thickening the crown every 2 or 3 years. Frozen stems or those damaged by disease should be removed every spring.

Park roses

This is the last group, which is also called cultivated rose hips. These varieties are bush-shaped, characterized by high resistance and low maintenance requirements. Flowers are very attractive, in clusters or singles, usually in warm colors. Very often used on open lawns or in urban areas.

The following varieties are distinguished in this group:

Such park varieties are also known:

white - "White Grootendorst";
red - "Grand Hotel", "Kordes Brillant";
pink - "Pink Grothendorst", "Rosary Utersen";
yellow - "Lichtkönigin Lucia", "Westerland", "Persian yellow".

Roses are one of the noblest plants. Great demands on care and landing site are paid off by its beautiful appearance and pleasant aroma. For centuries they have been used in gardens, where they have become a real decoration of the landscape.

In the first year, early flowering of young plants should not be allowed. Until the beginning of August, the buds are removed from the bushes. Leave 1-2 flowers on each shoot and do not cut them off so that fruits will set in autumn. Such plants ripen better and bloom more abundantly next year.

Throughout the summer, prophylactic treatment against pests is carried out using the available preparations according to the instructions.

Shelter of young bushes for the winter is carried out when freezing temperatures begin. It is recommended to cover the bushes completely using coniferous legs. In the spring, young bushes are opened first, and then older ones.

Caring for roses of previous plantings

Plantings of previous years usually bloom several times during the entire growing season. After each flowering, part of the shoots is cut off, ensuring the next flowering.

The soil is loosened to a depth of 10 cm twice a month, providing oxygen access to the roots. Twice a season, the site itself is dug up to a depth of up to 25 cm. The first time it is done after the opening of the roses, the second - at the end of August.

Watering roses is necessary regular and abundant, in hot weather, weekly. It is especially important during the growth period and during the budding period. An earthen circle near the bushes is watered, and the next day, loosening is carried out.

Top dressing is carried out regularly, applying organic and mineral fertilizers. They use the same composition as for young plantings, but use humus instead of mullein and add 10 mg of potassium and phosphorus fertilizers.

Pruning roses

Pruning is a very important procedure in the life of roses. It stimulates the growth of young shoots, renews the plant, prevents old weak shoots from absorbing nutrients, and allows the formation of a beautiful and healthy bush. Timely and correctly cut, roses can bloom up to 25 years or more.

At different stages of the development of the bushes, pruning is carried out weak, medium and strong. Weak accelerates flowering, with it only the tip of the shoot is removed. With an average 5-7 buds are left, with a strong one - 2-3. To carry out pruning, you need a good pruner, which is used to cut at an acute angle 1 cm above the eye.

Primary pruning is done in early spring, as soon as the snow melts. All dead shoots are removed and burned. The next, more thorough one, is done after opening the bushes and awakening the kidneys.

In polyanthus roses, pruning is done immediately strong, this stimulates the continuous flowering of these varieties. In remontant roses every year, a third of the shoots are cut strongly, and two-thirds are poorly cut. In climbing plants, damaged shoots and part of last year's ones that have faded are removed. Young, not blooming, cannot be cut off, they will bloom next year.

After flowering on roses, remove all wilted and starting to fade flowers, cutting them off with part of the shoot to the second eye. Summer pruning excludes fruit formation, and new buds grow rapidly and give the next wave of flowering.

The last pruning is carried out in the second half of August, leaving several buds on each bush. This helps the plant to better prepare for winter.

Simultaneously with pruning, it is necessary to regularly remove wild growth, which weakens the plant and in the future can cause the death of the cultivated part of the bush. Wild shoots are removed at the very base.

Reproduction of roses

There is a vegetative method of reproduction, and seed. Almost all garden varieties are propagated vegetatively, and wild species and hybrids are propagated by seeds.

After budding, a more powerful growth of bushes, high frost resistance, and drought resistance are observed. However, this process is laborious, time-consuming and less suitable for novice florists. Standard seedlings can only be obtained in the third year.

Cutting requires less labor, flowering is obtained already in the second year, there is no need to grow a stock. However, when propagated by cuttings, roses are more sensitive to adverse conditions.

Budding can be carried out from late April to mid-September. The area where the rootstock grows (most often the dog rose) is watered abundantly a week before the work, so that the bark begins to peel off easily at the rootstock. Then the cuttings for the stock are cut out from the middle part of the faded shoots of roses, the leaves are removed from them, leaving the petioles.

BTW!
Cuttings can be prepared 1-2 days before budding and kept in a damp and cool place. Eyes from such cuttings take root better. For spring budding, cuttings are most often harvested in autumn and stored in wet sand at a temperature of + 1 ... 2 ° C.

The peephole for budding is cut off with a bark shield up to 1.5 cm long. The petiole is preserved, since it is more convenient to insert the peephole with it under the bark.

Before budding, at the rootstocks, open the root collar near the base of the bush, rub the bark, make a T-shaped incision on the root collar and insert a cultural eye into it. Then the place of budding is tightly tied. The stock is covered with earth and the peephole and stock are waiting for 2 weeks.

In the spring of next year, the aerial part of the rootstock 1 cm above the budding site is cut off in order to direct the nutrients to the developing eye. Further care is the same as for annual plants.

Cuttings are usually carried out after the first flowering, within a month, starting from the second decade of July. Only faded and lignified shoots are taken for cuttings. Cuttings are cut from the middle part of the annual shoot, keeping at least 2 eyes per cutting. The lower cut is made 1 cm below the kidney, and the upper one is made above the kidney. The cuttings are immediately planted in the ground under the shelter.

The soil in the lower part consists of horse manure, then there is a layer of sod land, and in the upper part there is river sand. The cuttings are planted at an angle of 60 °, deepening by a third. Distance in rows - 5-6 cm. Between rows - 7-8 cm. Temperature for rooting is required at least + 24 ° С, humidity - up to 90%. After a day, the cuttings are opened and sprayed with water. Rooting usually occurs after 3 weeks. Before freezing, cuttings with young leaves are covered with dry foliage with a layer of up to 30 cm, and a layer of spruce branches. In the spring they are planted in a permanent place.

Stamp roses

These are very showy plants in the form of small trees, strewn with beautiful flowers. Rosehip varieties such as canina and rugosa are used as a stock for standard roses. Fruits, which ripen at the end of August, are harvested when the shell begins to redden. Such fruits germinate faster. Before sowing, rosehip seeds are mixed with pitch and kept wet for 2 weeks. In September, they are sown in the ground, watered and mulched with peat.

In dry autumn, watering is carried out 2-3 times with intervals of 5-6 days. Seedlings will appear in May next year .. In the second decade of June, they are dived according to the scheme 40 × 80 cm. In summer, fertilizing with liquid organic fertilizer is carried out, 2-3 times during the growing season. In autumn, all shoots are cut off at the base, leaving 1-2 of the strongest ones. The next growing season, the stem itself is grown, regularly removing the root shoots and all awakened buds on the lower part of the left shoots.

A well-developed root system allows the boles to grow up to 1.5 m by July. During this period, budding begins, using 2-3 eyes for inoculation. They are grafted on both sides of the shoot, at a distance of 3-4 cm from each other. 1-2 shortened lateral shoots are left above the grafted eyes, the rest are removed. If there are eyes and shoots below the budding site, they must also be removed; wrap the budding site with plastic wrap. The bandage is removed after 2 weeks, when the eyes take root. Shoots or buds above the budding site are removed. For grafting, varieties of cultivated roses with large fragrant flowers are used.

Winter Shelter Roses

In the second half of August, watering, loosening and pruning are stopped. They begin to cover roses when the temperature drops to + 3 ° C. Spruce branches, a layer of soil and wooden shields are considered a traditional and reliable shelter.

A combined shelter - with needles and earth, is considered the most reliable. The earth does not stick to the shoots, an air space is formed between the plant and the soil layer, which makes it possible to better preserve the bush.

BTW!
Young plants, both remontant and climbing, are completely covered in order to preserve the ground shoots as much as possible.

Curly roses are removed from the supports, twisted into rings, laid on coniferous branches and covered with spruce branches. Later they are sprinkled with a layer of earth and snow. On standard roses, the leaves are removed in front of the shelter, all unripe and damaged shoots are cut off, then carefully bent at an angle of up to 50 ° and fixed for 4-5 days. Then a pile of earth is poured, a crown is laid on it and covered with spruce branches.

With the onset of spring, the winter shelter is removed, doing it in stages. First - to enhance the access of air, and then the earth, which the bushes are covered with, is completely removed. It is recommended to leave the coniferous spruce branches for 8-10 days, and if the spring is early and hot, then before the onset of cloudy weather. It is better to open roses in the evening.

I prepare the soil fertile, light, consisting of compost, rotted manure, black peat and garden soil - in equal shares. I mix everything in the landing pit. I fill the seedling with the same mixture.
I immediately shade the planted roses (if the weather is sunny), in the spring too.
After planting, I mulch the soil so that it is always moist at the roots. This is especially true for summer residents who rarely come to their site.
After a couple of weeks, roses can be sprayed with a bio-cocktail (a mix of biological products), solutions of "Zircon", HB-101 (according to the instructions). But you need to use one thing, not all at once. Repeat the procedure after two weeks.
If it did not work out well to prepare the soil, in the next season the plant will need to be fed regularly. To do this, you can use "Fertika" with humate content, "Zircon", "Plant-fol" (NPK \u003d 20:20:20, but it is desirable to reduce the dose). There is no need to feed roses from the second half of July with nitrogen fertilizers.
I remove all or part of the buds formed by the first years in June. For example, if a bush is up to 25 cm high, it is better to cut them off at the pea stage - pinch them over the first leaf. If the rose is taller than 25 cm, you can leave two or three ovaries and let it bloom. If the rose grows buds in July, I cut them to the first leaf.

ON A NOTE
It happens, when I arrive at the dacha, I find that the baby has already formed 10 buds. I cut off half (those that have not yet burst). The rest can be cut off later, during flowering, - above the first or second leaf. Or remove the entire flowering brush (if the rose is of the spray flowering type) above the first leaf. After pruning, the rose will start up shoots from the grafting, which will form a beautiful bush for the first year and later life.

After pruning, it is necessary to feed the bush with Plantofol fertilizer, reducing the recommended dose by half, or Fertika (according to the instructions), so that the rose can grow both roots and stems, and also lay buds by August (in the middle lane). New flowering is essential for good maturation of the stems before wintering.
In August, I do not prune the rose, as I do at the end of June-July, I only remove the faded "heads" (sometimes I leave them if the plant does not grow seeds, like a rosehip). Even if the rose faded early, I do not recommend cutting off the faded brushes. In this case, the stems ripen better.
In the second half of summer, I feed the rose with potassium sulfate, also with a half dose, since the shoots are thin and the root system is still weak. Better to do it again in September.

Before sheltering for the winter on young roses, I cut off only the leaves, tie the stems with twine and bend them down.