Do-it-yourself drywall partitions: step-by-step instructions and some nuances. Do-it-yourself drywall walls - make yourself strong and reliable structures Build a drywall wall yourself

However, when starting to build a partition on your own, it is important not to overlook anything. Indeed, only in this case it is possible to achieve the proper quality and durability, avoid unnecessary worries during the installation process and save money at the same time.

Having decided on the place of erection of the drywall wall with your own hands, you can begin to form a list of materials and tools.

Having decided on the place of erection of the drywall wall with your own hands, you can begin to form a list of materials and tools. At this stage, you will need to make a number of measurements that will be needed for further calculations. Not only the height and width of the room at the place where the partition is erected are important, but also the dimensions of the doorway and, if any, of the windows. After all the dimensions have been fixed by you, you can arm yourself with a calculator and start compiling a list of necessary materials.

Indeed, only in this case it is possible to achieve the proper quality and durability, avoid unnecessary worries during the installation process and save money at the same time.

Calculation of the required materials

The basic list of materials looks like this:

• guide and rack profile;
• sealing tape;
• self-tapping screws and dowels for securing the profile;
• drywall;
• self-tapping screws for fastening drywall;
• wooden beams to strengthen the profile around the doorway;
• heat insulating material;
• sleeve for insulation of electrical wiring.

Not only the height and width of the room at the place where the partition is erected are important, but also the dimensions of the doorway and, if any, of the windows.

In order to prevent unnecessary spending or buying an insufficient amount of material, it is advisable to carry out preliminary calculations. With drywall, everything is very simple: you need to determine the area of ​​the future partition. To do this, we multiply the height of the room by its width at the place of installation of the plasterboard wall and subtract the area of ​​the doorway from the resulting number. If a single-layer cladding is planned, then the result must be multiplied by 2, in the case of a two-layer sheathing - by 4. For a wall, it is best to take standard sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm. Depending on the characteristics of the room, you will have to choose between a simple and moisture-resistant drywall.

In order to prevent unnecessary spending or buying an insufficient amount of material, it is advisable to carry out preliminary calculations.

A guide profile is needed to connect the supporting part of the structure to the floor and ceiling. Based on this, we simply multiply the length of the future wall by 2 and get the required amount of the profile. The rack-mount profile is a little more complicated. The recommended distance between the racks is 60 cm, so first you need to divide the width of the room, measured in cm, by 60, thus finding out the required number of racks. Then the resulting number is multiplied by the height of the room. Add two more wall lengths to the resulting number - these are jumpers to strengthen the structure.

With drywall, everything is very simple: you need to determine the area of ​​the future partition.

If there is a door in the plans, then the racks adjacent to the door must be reinforced with a wooden bar of the appropriate thickness. The reinforced thick-walled AU profile can serve as an alternative to the timber. The quantity is simple: the length of the two pillars adjacent to the door plus the width of the doorway.

A guide profile is needed to connect the supporting part of the structure to the floor and ceiling.

Cooking the tool

In order to avoid problems in the process of erecting a drywall wall with your own hands, it is necessary to prepare in advance the necessary tools for carrying out the work. You will need:

• roulette;
• plumb line and level;
• scissors for metal;
• construction knife;
• plane;
• screwdriver;
• grater.

Depending on the characteristics of the room, you will have to choose between a simple and moisture-resistant drywall.

The key to success: correct layout and installation

The most important and crucial moment in the assembly of the frame of the future partition is the markup. It is better to start it on the floor. Then, using a plumb line, the walls and ceiling are marked. It is very important not to forget about a few nuances:

1. When marking a plasterboard wall, it is necessary to tie to two walls perpendicular to it and average the indicators. Without doing this, you can get a room with a visual curvature, because right angles are very rarely found in buildings and the wall opposite to the partition can be oblique in relation to the other two.
2. The line you drew is a pointer for laying the guide profile, respectively, the partition will protrude beyond this line by the thickness of the sheets of drywall, plaster and finishing material.

Working with metal profiles

Having finished with the markings, you can start attaching the guide profile. It is laid using a sealing tape. Fix the guide profile with dowels and self-tapping screws. There must be an interval of no more than 50 cm between the fasteners. The edges of the guide profile must be fixed.

The next step in assembling the frame is to install and fix the rack profile along the edges of the guide. Then the doorway pillars are installed face-to-face to each other. The distance between them should be taking into account the upcoming plating hl. Next, the remaining racks are installed, while the first of them is located at a distance of 55 cm from the wall, the subsequent ones are placed at intervals of 60 cm.

Plasterboard sheathing is a simple matter, but it requires compliance with some rules.

The distance between the posts is measured from their centers. It is recommended to first insert the carrier profile into the lower guide, then into the upper one. Racks are fixed only after checking its position with a plumb line or level. If there is a living room on the floor above, then it is advisable to use a building film when laying the profile. Its laying in the place of contact of two profiles will help to avoid the characteristic squeak that is heard during a short-term increase in the load.

The next step will be the installation of horizontal struts designed to strengthen the structure. To do this, it is necessary to cut a profile of the desired length, which is equal to the interval between the posts plus 30 cm. Then, on the basis of the cut, marks are made on each side 15 cm from the cut line. After that, the sidewall of the profile is cut at an angle of 45 degrees, with a slope from the edge to the mark, and give it a U-shape. The workpiece is placed between the posts and fixed. The resulting ears are attached to the outside of the bearing profile.

The tightness of the adhesion of the sheets at the junction depends on the correct cutting.

The horizontal lintels of door and window openings are installed in the same way. However, if they are planned to be rounded, then it is necessary to fix an additional spacer between the rack and the lintel at the desired angle.

Communications

An important point when creating a drywall wall is the installation of electrical wiring. First, it is threaded into a protective metal or non-flammable plastic sleeve. Then, holes of the corresponding diameter are made in the supporting profile in the right places. In this case, it is important to bend the edges of the hole to one side and bend it in order to prevent damage to the wiring. Then the wires are pulled to the desired points in the structure.

A layer of cardboard is cut along the outlined line with a construction knife, then the edge of the support is brought under the cut line, and the gypsum is neatly broken off.

How to avoid mistakes?

Plasterboard sheathing is a simple matter, but it requires compliance with some rules. So, in order to avoid the appearance of cracks as a result of subsidence, it is recommended to leave a 10-15 mm gap at the junction of the drywall sheets and the floor along the lower edge of the wall. And the self-tapping screws are screwed into hl with a depth of 1 mm so that the cap does not break through the top layer of the cardboard.

An optimal option if you do not plan to mount weighty interior items on the walls.

The tightness of the adhesion of the sheets at the junction depends on the correct cutting. The following procedure will give the best results. After placing the sheet on a flat surface, measurements are taken, the border is marked with a pencil. A layer of cardboard is cut along the outlined line with a construction knife, then the edge of the support is brought under the cut line, and the gypsum is neatly broken off. The sheet is then turned over and placed again with a cut line on the edge of the support. The second layer of cardboard is trimmed, but not through, and gently chipped off.

This is a fairly durable material and even large sheets can be laid on their own, the main thing is to do it without jerking.

Single layer sheathing

This is the best option if you do not plan to mount weighty interior items on the walls. At possible mounting points for wall lighting fixtures, it is necessary to reinforce the drywall with plywood or build an additional spacer into the frame.

Then, holes of the corresponding diameter are made in the supporting profile in the right places.

If only hl are available to you, the length of which is less than the height of your apartment, then this is easy to fix without compromising the strength of the wall. You just need to use the experience of professionals when creating a wall with your own hands. The space not covered by the sheet is sheathed with fragments of the required size. In this case, it is necessary to avoid the coincidence of the seams at the same level, therefore, throughout the entire wall, you need to alternate whole sheets and their fragments. That is, if a sheet is sewn from the bottom in the first row, and a fragment is sewn on top, then in the next row there should be a fragment from below, and a solid sheet on top.

An important point when creating a drywall wall is the installation of electrical wiring.

All drywall joints must be chamfered. If there is no thinning of the sheet towards the edge, then it must be formed using a planer. The edge of the sheet is thinned at an angle of approximately 22 degrees, but in such a way that a decrease in thickness of no more than 4 mm is observed at the cut line. On the other hand, the edges adjacent to the boundaries of the wall should be chamfered.

Two-layer cladding

Two-layer plasterboard wall cladding is practiced when it is necessary to install a reinforced partition. Sheathing rules differ little from single-layer, with one exception: the joints of drywall sheets in the lower sheathing layer do not have to be processed, forming a chamfer. It is only needed on the sheets of the top layer.

There should be no more than 50 cm spacing between fasteners.

When sheathing the frame, it is also important to make sure that the seams do not match. To do this, the top layer is sewn with an offset of half the width of the sheet. In addition, it is important to increase the number of fixation points. Therefore, if, with a single-layer sheathing, it is sufficient to fasten with self-tapping screws with an interval of 25-40 cm, then with a two-layer sheathing, fixation on the profile with an interval of 15-20 cm is needed.

Avoid sudden movements when working with HL.

Arch

If you want to make the door or window opening semicircular, then you can bend the cut of the required size yourself. To do this, you need a frame of the required radius, which can be made from scraps of the same drywall and bars.

On the other hand, the edges adjacent to the boundaries of the wall should be chamfered.

Having prepared everything necessary, a fragment of gL of the desired size is cut off. Then one of its sides must be perforated with a needle roller and moistened with a sponge until a water mirror is formed. After that, the workpiece is moved to a previously prepared frame and smoothly bent. The edges are fixed and left in this position until dry. After an hour, you can remove the clamps and, if the workpiece does not feel loose to the touch, proceed with installation.

In addition, it is important to increase the number of fixation points.

First, the plasterboard arch is fixed in the center and edges, then screws are screwed in at all points of contact between the drywall and the frame. When fixing the sheet for the first time, it is important not to turn the screws, leaving the head 1-2 mm above the surface. The caps are deepened after the sheet has completely dried.

It is important to carry out all work at a room temperature of no higher than 15 degrees.

Heat and sound insulation

An empty drywall wall is like a drum that does not store heat. Therefore, immediately attend to heat and sound insulation. The required amount of material is calculated based on the wall area and profile thickness. The choice of material depends entirely on your preferences and financial capabilities. Comparative characteristics of the most common materials can help you navigate.

Having finished with the markings, you can start attaching the guide profile.

The sound-insulating material is laid before the cladding of the second side of the wall. It is important to seal the material, avoiding gaps between the frame and the layers of thermal insulation. Also, before installation, make sure that the electrical wiring is connected to all marked points on the wall.

Finishing

To begin with, you need to lay a mounting grid at the joints of the hl and level the groove formed by the chamfers with the general level of the wall with a starting putty.

The most important and crucial moment in the assembly of the frame of the future partition is the markup

It is recommended to strengthen the corner of the doorway using a building corner. It is laid on the starting putty and pressed tightly to the surface. Then the surplus putty is removed with a spatula, along the way leveling it along the general level of the partition. It is advisable to process the corner between the walls with a serpyanka.

In order to avoid problems in the process of erecting a drywall wall with your own hands, it is necessary to prepare in advance the necessary tools for carrying out the work.

The last step is the elimination of irregularities and roughness. To do this, you need to process all the fixation points with self-tapping screws with a finishing putty, simultaneously treating all cracks and chips that have appeared in the process of work. When the putty is dry, it is important to smooth the surface using an abrasive mesh and floats. If in the future you plan to paint or paste over the wall with thin wallpaper, then it is definitely worth treating it with a primer.

When marking a plasterboard wall, it is necessary to tie to two walls perpendicular to it and average the indicators.

What you should pay attention to

It is important to carry out all work at a room temperature of no higher than 15 degrees. Even if you are working with waterproof drywall, take care of impregnating the surface with a waterproofing compound, at least in the area of ​​the joints. Avoid sudden movements when working with HL. This is a fairly durable material and even large sheets can be laid on their own, the main thing is to do it without jerking.

If there is a door in the plans, then the racks adjacent to the door must be reinforced with a wooden bar of the appropriate thickness.

VIDEO: Plasterboard partition. Video tutorial. Do it yourself. All stages

The modern choice of finishing materials allows you to easily carry out repairs of any complexity in your own apartment or house. The main thing is that the necessary set of tools and detailed instructions are available.

Delimiting space in a room has long ceased to be a problem, since you can easily make a simple plasterboard partition with your own hands. Drywall is a fairly affordable and easy-to-work material. It has a lot of pluses and practically no minuses.

1. Light weight.
2. Low price.
3. Ease of processing.
4. Good soundproofing.
5. Lack of "wet" and dirty work during installation.
6. Variability of the finish of the outer layer.
7. A frame that allows the laying of any communications.

Plasterboard structures of any configuration are usually mounted on a metal profile. It is impractical to use a wooden frame structure: the tree rots, deforms over time, working with it requires additional efforts and the presence of a special tool. And the cost of wooden bars is not lower than a metal profile.

Other required materials

1. Sealing tape.
2. Reinforcing tape for bonding seams.
3. Self-tapping screws for metal.
4. Self-tapping screws with a press washer.
5. Dowel nails.
6. Putty for sealing joints between drywall sheets.
7. Acrylic based primer.
8. Plasterboard sheets 12-14 mm thick.

What is the profile for drywall

Conventional and familiar ceiling siding profiles cannot be used for plasterboard installations. They are too fragile and unreliable. For drywall, special fittings are used: reinforced guides and rack metal profiles. The runner hardware is used to fasten drywall to ceilings or walls. There are 4 markings of the guide profiles, depending on the thickness of the material. The thinnest are 50 by 40 mm, the widest are 100 by 40 mm. The length is the same for all sizes - 3 meters.

Rack fittings are also divided into 4 types: from 50 to 50 mm to 100 to 50 mm. As you can see from the markings, the widest profile is the strongest and most reliable. The length of the rack profile varies from 3 to 4 meters. The rack profile, from which the vertical frame of the plasterboard partition is formed, is not recommended to be extended in length, otherwise the structure will not have sufficient strength.

Tools that are required for the construction of a plasterboard partition

After all the necessary tools and materials have been purchased, you should carefully consider the future design of the partition and its location in the room.

Exactly such marks are made on the second wall. They must match. You can check the accuracy of the markings as follows: you need to draw a straight line along the floor from one mark on the wall to the second. If the lines match, then the marking is applied correctly. Along these lines, the plasterboard partition will be attached to the wall and to the floor.

The marks on the ceiling are measured in the same way. It is important that the line on the floor is strictly perpendicular to the markings on the ceiling. In this case, the future partition will not tilt or skew in any direction.

After the markup has been applied, you can start installing the profile on the walls, floor and ceiling. A guide fittings are screwed onto the ceiling. A rack-mount profile is attached to the walls and floor.

A rubberized sealing tape is placed between the wall and the profile. This material is intended for tight coupling of load-bearing wall structures with a partition. Also, the sealing tape acts as a buffer when the temperature and humidity climate in the room changes, due to which the plasterboard structure may shrink or expand slightly. The tape will protect it from cracks and deformation.

To get into a room fenced off by a partition, you need a passage, under which profiles are specially mounted. If you plan to insert the door into the partition structure, then the doorway needs to be reinforced. This can be done in several ways.

1. Insert into each other and fasten the rack profiles.
2. Insert a wooden bar inside the profile.
3. Reinforce the profile with a steel frame.
4. Place two rack profiles side by side.

According to experts, the first method is the most optimal, but only if the intended door is made of lightweight materials, and the estimated weight does not exceed 45 kg. For heavier door leaves, it is recommended to purchase a special reinforced post profile, the thickness of which exceeds 2 mm.

Under the doorway, you need to leave the desired width (size of the canvas) and add another 8 cm to the existing size, for the door frame.

After the door profile is exposed, the upper lintel is exposed and fastened between them.

The next step is to reinforce the structure with reinforced rack profiles. From the mounted doorway, a vertical crate is made of fittings, from floor to ceiling, a step of 40-50 cm. After the completion of the work, a kind of cage is obtained, with a vertically attached profile.

It's important to know

It is required to mount rack profiles in a specific order: the stiffening rib should be directed in the direction from which the plasterboard cladding of the frame will begin. This is due to the fact that the first sheets of drywall need to be fastened from the side of the rib, the subsequent ones - to the rest of the rack profile. If you do not follow the recommended frame sheathing technology, the partition will turn out to be convex or deformed.

If you plan to lay communications (electrical wires, computer and television cables), it is desirable that the holes for the wires are at the same level.

If you plan to hang a picture or a lamp on the partition, then a transverse lintel from the profile must be installed in the metal frame in advance. The place of the jumper should be marked in order to further attach the accessory to the profile using self-tapping screws.

The width of the baffle can be varied. The thinnest partition consists of a single frame. If a stronger and more reliable structure is required, then the profile can be mounted in several layers. Thanks to this, the soundproofing and heat-saving performance of the partition can be improved.

Facing the erected frame from the profile with plasterboard

Rules for cutting sheet material

When attaching the material to a metal profile, the sheet should be less than the height of the walls and 1 cm away from the floor. When cutting the facing material, make sure that the cardboard and gypsum core are cut off with a special knife for cutting drywall. This will save the material from cracking and breakage during cutting into fragments of the required size.

It is advisable to process the edges with a roughing plane, then using an edge plane, a chamfer is cut out at the ends, having an angle of 20-22 degrees.

It is worth knowing that the sheets can only be joined on a metal profile, therefore, when cutting drywall, you should take into account the step between the rack fittings.

The sheets obtained after cutting are attached to the metal profile using self-tapping screws, at least 3 cm long.It is necessary to screw the screws to the profile after 15-20 cm; on the jumpers and joints of the sheets, this distance can be reduced to 10 cm.It is also impossible to fasten the screws near the very edge of the sheet , optimally 15 mm from the edge.

When attaching the facing material, it is not necessary to sink the caps of the self-tapping screws into the drywall too much, maximum by 1 mm. The sunken caps can be putty in the future.

After one side of the partition is lined with plasterboard, you can proceed with the installation of soundproofing material and laying communications inside the structure.

Communication wires are routed through special holes in the metal profile.

For sound insulation, you can use mineral wool, polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene, isover. Each type of material has a whole range of useful properties, for example, expanded polystyrene can be used in rooms with high humidity.

For soundproofing the partition, the material is cut into fragments and placed inside the sections from the profile. It is important to choose a material of a certain thickness that will not bulge out due to the edges of the metal profile. After placing the soundproofing material, you can proceed to facing the second side of the partition.

After the construction of a plasterboard structure, it is required to give it a presentable look. For this, a layer of primer is applied to the surface of the material, which will protect the wall from moisture and corrosion.

After priming, the drywall is putty, leveling all the irregularities, hiding the fastener caps, seams. A putty is applied to the seams between the sheets, leveled, then, while it is not dry, a reinforcing tape is attached to the putty upstairs and sunk with a spatula.

Video - Installation of a large partition in a private house

It is worth knowing that if the plasterboard partition is covered with wallpaper, then its surface must be completely putty. This is due to the fact that seams can show through through thin wallpaper and spoil the entire look of the structure. There is another reason: the surface of the material is made of cardboard. If you stick wallpaper on cardboard, then after a while nothing can be removed. We'll have to glue the new wallpaper on top of the old one.

Do not use facade plaster for interior work. This material can release toxic substances and be harmful to health.

For the construction of a partition in places with unstable humidity and temperature indicators, it is recommended to use special sheets of drywall. They are colored green and have good moisture resistance. Tiles can be laid on this material.

Video - Installation of a plasterboard partition from KNAUF

the wall for some families becomes the only way out. Children grow up, and only a few can buy new housing. How to make separate rooms for children? Do not lay out the same wall in the middle of the apartment. They will make a do-it-yourself solution, the step-by-step instructions for the manufacture of which will be discussed in today's article. Let's try to understand how difficult it is to do this kind of work on our own: from selection to finishing. Let's figure out how to lay electrical wiring in the partitions and provide sound insulation so that the room becomes complete.

We have already talked about dividing the room into two parts. However, a baffle will be needed in other cases as well. It can be a semblance made according to the same principle, or perhaps a decorative plasterboard for decorating a woman's boudoir. Consider the advantages and disadvantages of GCR partitions.

Positive and negative qualities of plasterboard walls

Installation of drywall partitions is so simple that a home craftsman can handle this work without such experience. You just need to know some of the nuances that we will try to highlight today. Of the advantages of working with such material, in addition to ease of installation, it is possible to note the low cost of time and money. GKL is not expensive, except for well-known brands. It allows you to bring to life many of the most daring ideas, it can be bent, if necessary. For example, a drywall doorway when installing interior partitions can be made in the form of an arch or traditional.

The disadvantage of the material is its susceptibility to mechanical damage. It is easy to break on impact. Also, the soundproofing qualities are poor. To ensure them, additional work will be required. One should not hope that massive objects will be possible later. To ensure such an installation, it is necessary to lay stiffeners in the right places, reinforcing the structure.

Important information! When installing partitions, you should not hope that the room is dry. At any time, the neighbors from above can flood, which will lead to rather unpleasant consequences and unnecessary costs. It is better to purchase a more expensive moisture resistant material. This will not completely eliminate its swelling, but it will significantly reduce the damage.

What material is required to make a drywall partition with your own hands

The GKL partition consists of a frame that gives the main strength and plasterboard sheathing. The frame is made from a metal profile, wooden blocks or a combination of both materials. Also, dowel-nails are used to attach the guides to, and and, with which the jumpers and gypsum boards are attached to them.

Drywall sheets can be divided into types:

• Standard- gray color, blue marking. The most common material. Subdivided into (slightly thinner and tougher) and wall;
• Moisture resistant- green color, blue marking. Do not think that he is not at all afraid of moisture, yet gypsum is hygroscopic, but more resistant to moisture;
• Refractory- pink color, red marking. and high temperatures.

Related article:

GVL, GKLV and other types, their characteristics, sizes and areas of application - we will talk about all this in full detail in this publication. We will also consider how GVL and GKL differ and for which work it is better to use each of the options.

Optimal thickness of drywall partitions

The thickness of the gypsum board for the interior partition depends on the purpose of the wall. If it is a decorative false wall, the minimum sheet thickness will be 12.5 mm. If a full-fledged partition is planned, in which installation or various souvenirs is possible, then some calculations will be required:

• If the load is 40 ÷ 50 kg / m², you need a sheet with a thickness of at least 15 mm;
• Over 70 kg / m² provides for the use of double sheets, and reinforcement of the frame structure.

When sheathing the frame, you should not make the joints of gypsum plasterboard sheets of opposite walls at the same level. This will lead to a weakening of the structure and the appearance of cracks at the seams. But the choice of gypsum board is not the most important thing in such an installation. Before you make a plasterboard partition in a room, you should understand which metal profile to choose for one purpose or another.

The main types of partitions: features and markings

Image	Construction type	Options	Some characteristics
	S111	Weight of 1 m³ is equal to 28 kg, recommended height - up to 8 m	Single frame made of galvanized steel profile, which is sheathed on both sides with sheets of waterproof plasterboard in one layer. The inside is filled in the form of mineral wool. It is used as partitions in rooms with low requirements for sound insulation and fire resistance. The thickness of the partition depends on the dimensions of the profile and the gypsum board.
	C112	Weight 1 m³ - 53 kg, height 4 ÷ 9 m	Single metal frame with two-layer plasterboard cladding on both sides. The filler is mineral wool. The design provides high sound insulation characteristics and fire resistance (up to 1.25 hours). It is used for redevelopment or capital construction.
	S113	Height up to 9.5 m. Weight 1m³ - 78 kg	A single frame is sheathed on both sides with sheets of waterproof plasterboard in three layers. By increasing the number of layers of gypsum board, sound insulation is increased.
	S115.1	Height - 6.5 m, weight 1 m³ - 57 kg	Double frame, sheathed with gypsum board in two layers. Along with strength, it has excellent fire resistance indicators.
	S115.2	Weight 1 m³ - 69 kg. Height up to 9 m	In addition to the two-layer cladding, the double frame is divided by an additional sheet of drywall (spaced frame). Due to this, strength increases, as well as thermal insulation properties. Mineral wool slabs are laid inside.
	S116	Height 4.5 - 6.5 m, weight 1 m³ - 61 kg. Minimum wall thickness 220 mm	Double metal frame, sheathed with two layers of drywall is convenient for. Fire resistance - 1.25 hours. Sound insulation up to 50 dB.
	S118	Weight 1 m³ - 86 kg. Height up to 9 m	Partition of the class "Protection of the premises from penetration". Made according to type C113 with a single metal frame, sheathed with a three-layer plasterboard coating. A feature of the product is galvanized steel sheets, 0.5 mm thick, inserted between the gypsum board, which significantly increases the strength and fire resistance of the structure. It is most optimal for creating a plasterboard partition with a door in the warehouse.
	S121	Weight 1 m³ - 32 kg. Height up to 3.1 m	The frame is made of wood with a moisture content of 12% and sheathed on both sides with one layer of gypsum board.
	S122	Weight of 1 m³ - about 57 kg. Height up to 3.1 m	Two-layer "upholstery" of the GKL wooden frame. The insulating material of the partition is made of mineral fiber boards. The advantages are high strength and good sound insulation.

Related article:

What materials can be used for manufacturing, how to choose the shape of the partition and expert advice on its installation - read all this and much more in this material.

Profile types for GKL partitions

To assemble a frame for an interior plasterboard partition, you will need three types of profiles - rack, guides (main) and lintels.

Guides - U-shaped profile with standard dimensions in width - 5; 6.5; 7.5 and 10 cm. Height - 4 or 4.5 cm. The main (guide) profiles are attached to the ceiling and walls, giving the structure stability. Marking - PN or UW.

Rack elements are labeled as PS or CW. The dimensions in height and width are identical, because they must be inserted into one another. But the length of the rack-mount profiles is more varied. If the guides are produced in 3 m each, then the rack ones can also be 3.5 or 4 m. The reason for this was that the racks cannot be built up - this harms the strength of the frame structure.

Lintels are made independently from any type of profile and serve to increase the strength of the frame. Typically, scraps left over from rack or main elements are used. The method of bending (internal or external) depends on the wishes of the master, but the internal one is more durable.

Methods of soundproofing walls made of gypsum plasterboard

The most common method of soundproofing (as well as) walls made of gypsum board is the gasket between the cladding of mineral wool or foam. The denser and thicker this layer is, the better the wall or sound.

Do-it-yourself drywall partitions: step-by-step instructions for the main steps

Installation of a gypsum plasterboard wall is carried out in several stages. But first you need to figure out which one you may need for work.

Partition mounting tool

In addition to the main tool (punch, drill, etc.), you will need a GCR knife. With it, you can cut parts of the desired size. This is done as follows. Having marked the sheet, we apply a metal profile and draw the knife several times along the strip, cutting the surface as deeply as possible. We break the rest. It is not difficult, even a schoolboy can handle the job. The cut is leveled with a plane on the gypsum board or with the same knife so that the joint is as even as possible.

Need to know! There is no need to fit the slabs perfectly, because all imperfections will be covered with a putty when finishing. But before you make a drywall wall, you should practice on an unnecessary cut.

Calculation of consumables for a wall made of gypsum plasterboard

It is not difficult to calculate the required amount of GCR. It depends on the layers of the wall, and we will not dwell on it. But calculate the carrier profile more difficult. Calculations are made according to the formula Q = (P / 0.6 + 4) × K if the wall is less than 3 m high, and Q = ((P / 0.6 + 4) × H / 3) + P × K , if the wall height is more than 3 m, where:

• Q - the number of the bearing profile;
• K - coefficient for waste;
• P - the perimeter of the room;
• 0,6 - the value of the pitch of the racks in meters;
• 4 - the number of racks indicated in pieces that must be installed in the corners of the room.

However, there are also supporting elements of the frame. We perform calculations as follows. We divide the perimeter of the future wall by 3 (the height of one profile), and then multiply it by the overrun coefficient. For different areas, it is different, and is 1.075 for an area over 20 m 2, 1.175 for an area from 10 to 20 m 2 and 1.275 if the area is less than 10 m 2.

Frame installation: starting work

First, we will analyze the stages of work, how to make a plasterboard partition, superficially, and then we will try to understand all the technology in the photo examples in detailed step-by-step instructions. First of all, using a laser level, we mark the location of the main profiles - they are the basis of the future wall. In addition to fixing the dowel-nails to the walls and ceiling, we fix the profiles to each other with a special breakdown or self-tapping screws.

Having completed this work, we move on to the racks. If it is planned, then we install wooden bars in the rack profiles around it - they will add strength to the structure.

Good to know! If the wall is small, then horizontal bars can be dispensed with. If the dimensions are large, then the jumpers will have to be installed.

Before making a partition in the room, cutouts are made in the main profiles for wiring, into which it is dragged. After the main frame is assembled, one side of the partition is closed. In this case, drywall is attached throughout the entire area, not excluding the future doorway. It is much more convenient to cut it out later.

Having closed one side of the wall, on which sockets and switches will be installed, and having cut through the doorway, we install glasses for electrical fittings, stretch cables through them and fill the free space with mineral wool, which will provide noise and heat insulation. It remains to close the wall on the back of the gypsum board and cut through the doorway again.

Now let's look at how a drywall wall is mounted with our own hands in step-by-step instructions with photo examples.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for installing a GKL partition

Illustration	Action being performed
	First, we measure the length of the main profiles and cut to the desired length. To do this, you can use metal scissors or a grinder. When working with a grinder, do not forget about protective glasses.
	Holes are cut in the lower profile for pulling cables (in our case, they go under the floor) ...
	The main profile is laid according to the pre-made markings and is attached to the floor. The cables are routed through the prepared holes.
	The same actions are performed with the upper profile and with the guides along the walls.
	This is how the main profile is attached if there is a doorway directly against the wall.
	We install a wooden block in the profile along the door jamb, which is attached to self-tapping screws. It will give strength to the structure and door hinges.
	The profiles are fastened to each other with self-tapping screws or by means of a special device - a breakdown.
	Be sure to check the position of each rack and rail with a mounting level. This will give you confidence that the wall will turn out flat, without tilting.
	We begin to sew up the plasterboard frame, along with the doorway. This is much more convenient than fastening the sheets in pieces.
	We coat all the seams of the first layer with putty and level. This will provide better heat and sound insulation.
	We proceed to cut the door. Here, breaking the sheet will not work, and therefore you will have to cut it completely, to its full thickness. In our case, this is 12.5 mm.
	We proceed to fastening the second layer of drywall. This time the sheets are shifted 60 cm, overlapping the first seam.
	Having closed one side in 2 layers, mark the location of the sockets and drill them with a wood crown ...
	… After which we mount the glasses and lead the cables into them.
	On the reverse side, we proceed to laying the insulation - mineral wool. It fills all the free space.
	The final result of insulation looks like this. It remains to close the second side of the wall.
	After completing this work and cutting through the doorway again, we get the following picture. But we still have one more blank wall not mounted.
	We assemble the frame from a metal profile in the same way ...
	... and sew it up with drywall. All joints should be as smooth and accurate as possible.
	Finally, we will close the ends of the metal profile, after which we can proceed to the finishing of the mounted wall.

How to bend the gypsum board for mounting an arched passage

This work is quite simple to do. We cut the strip to size and put it on the floor, using a knife and a ruler, make transverse cuts every centimeter along the entire length. After the steps taken, the strip will easily bend and position itself as needed. It becomes clear that the question of how to make a drywall partition with your own hands is not so difficult.

Do-it-yourself drywall wall is simple, even an amateur can easily cope with it. Often, when redeveloping an apartment or buying a new home, it becomes necessary to change the designs of plasterboard walls or build new partitions. Not so long ago, such a structure could be erected only from wood or brick. Nowadays, these expensive materials have been replaced by drywall, which is easy to install, is inexpensive and is sold in all hardware stores.

TV wall decoration and design

Plasterboard wall design and decoration

Of course, the material has drawbacks, one of them is the fragility of the material, for example, so that at the construction stage it is necessary to determine where the mounted objects will be placed and to mount the mortgage.

Installation diagram of heavy objects on drywall But following the instructions, you can make any built-in structure in the form of a wall bars or.
The second minus is the intolerance of long contact with water, drywall can get wet and deformed.

Wall construction preparatory stage

Before constructing a decorative plasterboard wall, you need to make some preparations.

Variant of the construction and design of the TV wall

Preparing the material

From the material we need:

After assembling the plasterboard wall, the surface must be finished, so you will need:

An example of finishing a plasterboard wall

Instruments

The tools that we need are in almost every home:

This completes the preparation of the tool and material, you can proceed to the next stage.

Frame diagram

It is not possible to complete the work of assembling the frame without a drawing.

The drawing must be completed even before the material is purchased, since thanks to it you can calculate it very accurately. The designs of drywall walls in the bedroom are different and you can create your own unusual project.

To create a drawing, you do not need to be an artist; it is enough to schematically draw the main elements of the structure.

Diagram of the structure of the plasterboard wall
Determine where they will be, if any are supposed to be installed in the wall. Determine which one is apart. If structural reinforcement is required, the profiles will be positioned in 40 cm increments.

An example of a drywall wall design in a bedroom








As soon as the drawing is ready, we transfer the markup to the surface, this should be done as follows:

Not always in apartments or purchased houses, new owners like the standard layout of the rooms. So the question arises, how to build a drywall wall with your own hands?

It is rather difficult to build a capital wall, and, moreover, for apartment buildings, approval from the relevant authorities will be required. In this case, the easiest way out is to install a plasterboard partition, and the article will tell you how to do this.

Gypsokraton is a flexible, lightweight and easy-to-use material.

With its help, any room can be given an original and unique look. This could be:

• The wall separating the room.
• A plasterboard partition of an inconceivable shape.
• Sophisticated decorative design.

To build a drywall wall, you must observe the following sequence of work:

• Make a wall frame. Usually metal profiles or wooden slats are used for this.

Advice: Preference for the frame should be given to metal elements with greater strength, less susceptibility to external factors, such as mechanical stress, moisture. In addition, the price of the material is quite affordable, and the profile of the parts is made specifically for this material.

• Sheathe the wall on both sides with drywall sheets, which can be ordinary, moisture-resistant or fire-resistant, which depends on the purpose of the room where the walls are being erected from drywall.
• Fill the space between the canvases. It can be glass wool or mineral wool.

The advantages and disadvantages of installing plasterboard walls are shown in the table:

Frame materials

Before you build a wall from drywall, a strong and selected frame is made. For this, a metal profile specially designed for the panels is used, and a number of accessories used during its installation.

For this, the following profile sizes are used:

• D - to form the surface on which the drywall will be mounted.
• W- for the construction of a common wall frame.
• C - reference.
• U - guide. This is a simple U-shaped profile with smooth side walls, into which a support profile with a special ribbing made by pressing is inserted into it, which increases the bending stiffness of the element.

The main dimensions of the profiles:

• CD is a supporting element of the frame with dimensions of 60x27 millimeters.
• UD - a guide for attaching the CD profile, with dimensions of 28x27 millimeters.
• CW - profile for wall frame racks, with dimensions 50x50; 50x75; 50x100 mm.
• UW - guide for CW profile, dimensions 50x40; 75x40; 100x40 mm.
• UA profile is a variant of the CW profile, but more rigid.

The type of profiles and dimensions are shown in the photo.

To calculate the approximate amount of materials, a table is presented in which the consumption rates of the necessary materials for the installation of a wall are indicated, the dimensions of which:

• Length - 3.5 meters.
• Width - 2.5 meters.
• Height excluding door openings.

When constructing the frame, it must be borne in mind that:

• For plasterboard walls 5; 7.5 or 10 centimeters, profile W.
• For a thicker partition, a D series profile is installed, and the guide elements are fixed in parallel by 2, instead of one standard one.
• Any distance between the guides is chosen, depending on the presence of insulation or the installation of communications.

Preparing for wall installation

Instructions for installing a plasterboard wall suggests starting work with preparatory operations.

For this:

• Marking is carried out on the floor, ceiling and walls where the partition is supposed to be installed.
• The lines for installing the wall are drawn in relation to the window parallel to the other two walls.
• Along the designated perimeter, a guide rigid profile is screwed with dowels, which serves as a support for the structure under construction.

When constructing a drywall wall, the following rule must be observed:

• The profile for the racks unfolds with a stiffener to the side, where the sheets are attached.
• If editing from right to left, the edges should be on the right.
• For the partition in which the door is provided, a rigid post profile must be installed. A detailed video in this article will allow you to see the whole process with your own eyes and understand what kind of structure the prepared structure will have.

• The rack profiles are distributed along the guides with a step of approximately 50 centimeters.

Tip: The joints of two sheets should be carried out only on the profile. This will increase the strength of the structure.

• In that part of the wall, which is located above the door, additional profiles are inserted to ensure the rigidity of fixing the sheets.

Wall cladding

Before proceeding with the fastening of drywall, you must choose the right material. The strength and durability of a drywall structure depends on the quality of the material, its compliance with the performance characteristics of the room in which the wall will be installed.

The gypsum board is based on a gypsum core, which is covered with multilayer cardboard on both sides.

Plasterboard sheets (gypsum plasterboard), depending on the constituent elements, are divided into:

• GKL- standard sheets of drywall, used for "covering" rooms with normal humidity. Differs in low fire-retardant characteristics. The cost of such material is the lowest.
• GKLO- fire-resistant drywall. In this case, the gypsum filler contains fiberglass reinforcement, and the cardboard is impregnated with fire retardants that reduce the flammability of the material. Fiberglass prevents the spread of flame.
• GKLV- waterproof plasterboard, used for the construction of partitions in wet rooms: bathroom, balcony and wall alignment. The ability of drywall to absorb moisture is minimized by the cardboard layer of gypsum board impregnated with hydrophobic compounds.
• GKLVO- a combined type of drywall that combines waterproof fire-resistant properties. Its cost is the highest.

Depending on the purpose, the thickness of the drywall sheets is selected:

• Wall cladding is best done with wall gypsum boards 12.5 millimeters thick.
• The ceiling is sheathed with ceiling gypsum plasterboard - 9.5 millimeters thick (see Ceiling with plasterboard: doing it right).
• To create a figure on a drywall wall, you will need an arched gypsum board, 7.5 - 8 millimeters thick.

Tip: When purchasing drywall, you must carefully inspect the sheets for defects on them, so that there is no damage to the cardboard and the beveled core.

Drywall cutting

A construction knife with a set of replaceable blades is used to cut the material.

After that:

• The sheet is placed on a flat, always hard surface.
• A line of cut is marked with a pencil or marker.
• The knife cuts the top of the cardboard.
• The sheet is displaced along the notch line onto the support lump and gently breaks.
• The sheet returns to its original position, unfolds on an edge, and then bends.
• The cardboard is notched from the other side, but not through.
• The web is turned over to the other side, shifted to the edge of the support and finally divided.

Tip: To provide a gap, for high-quality sealing of the joints afterwards with putty, it is necessary to form a bevel-chamfer at the edge of the sheet with an inclination of approximately 22.5 ° with a special plane for drywall.

Fastening sheets

Drywall is attached to the metal frame with self-tapping screws 3.5x35 mm.

Wherein:

• The corners of the sheet are fastened.
• Fasteners are placed with a step of 10 - 25 centimeters along the edges of the sheet and along its middle line.
• Self-tapping screws are screwed in so that the caps of the elements are slightly deepened into the gypsum board, and do not protrude above the level of the wall.

Tip: Fixing the sheets should be carried out higher from the floor at a distance of 15 millimeters to ensure the integrity of the structure during operation.

• After attaching the first sheet, the remainder of the distance to the ceiling is measured and the corresponding piece of gypsum board is prepared.
• A chamfer is cut on it to improve the joining of the canvases to the upper or lower sheet and to the ceiling.

• All subsequent sheets are attached entirely without chamfers, in a checkerboard pattern: after installing the first row, a whole drywall sheet is placed under the ceiling, and the missing part is below.

Installation of wiring, sockets, switches:

Soundproofing and wall decoration

Mineral wool is used for soundproofing. In this case, a plasterboard wall reduces the penetration of sound from one room to another.

For this:

• Cotton wool fits tightly between the frame posts without gaps, without additional fastening.
• The reliability of the laying of the material can be improved by horizontal lintels made of wooden beams, the length of which is chosen according to the width of the wall, and the pieces of mineral wool will be of shorter length.

• After installing the soundproofing, the second side of the wall is sheathed.
• All end surfaces are filled.
• A serpyanka mounting mesh is glued to the joints.
• A starting putty is applied.
• The entire surface is finished with a finishing putty.
• The surface is finally leveled with an abrasive mesh and a float.
• The wall is ready for any suitable coating.

Design solutions

A beautifully decorated plasterboard wall creates an original look for any room, and its owner is in a good mood. The video will tell you how to do this. How can you arrange a drywall wall?

A few examples are presented below:

• Walls can be plastered and covered with moisture resistant paint.

• Cover with natural or artificial stone.

• Make a mosaic or tile finish.

• You can draw a drawing on a drywall wall.

• You can make a plasterboard niche in the room with LED lighting.

• The plasterboard fireplace in the wall looks great.

The color scheme can be very different and match the color scheme of the entire room.

In order to do everything correctly, to avoid mistakes during the installation of the structure, before installing the drywall wall with your own hands, it is better to watch the video. In it, all stages are accompanied by visual instructions.