How to make a plasterboard ceiling yourself. How to make a plasterboard ceiling yourself without assistance

In this article we will try to explain in detail how the cladding is done. Having carefully read this material, you can easily assemble any structure from gypsum plasterboards.

Introduction

First, you need to find out what elements the suspension consists of. Like any building structure, a plasterboard ceiling consists of a base - a frame and a cladding (or filler) - a gypsum plasterboard gypsum board.

The frame is made of galvanized profiles of various sizes and sections. The design is very light and practically does not exert special pressure on the floor slabs.

Below is a list of accessories and materials for a suspended plasterboard ceiling:

Plasterboard ceiling sheets
Wall guiding profile UD-27
Ceiling bearing profile ЦД-60
Straight U-shaped suspension
Cross-shaped profile connector (crab)
Straight profile connector
Plastic dowels and self-tapping screws (quick installation is recommended 6 x 40 mm)
Self-tapping screws for metal with a drill 12 mm (seeds)
Self-tapping screws black 25 mm for fastening drywall to the frame

Thickness 9.5 mm. They are lightweight and facilitate the assembly of the entire ceiling structure. The following materials will be needed to putty the ceiling:

Self-adhesive mesh (serpyanka) for gypsum board joints 50 mm wide
Primer (any liquid will do)
Plaster finishing putty
Putty for joints (you can use Fugenfüller or similar)
Grinding mesh
Fine-grained sandpaper (zero)

Undoubtedly, the question naturally arises of how to make an accurate calculation of the amount of each structural element and finishing materials. To do this, use the technique below.

Calculation of materials for plasterboard ceiling

There are simple rules for calculating materials:

The number of the UD-27 guiding profile is equal to the perimeter of the room (add the length of all 4 walls)

The supporting profile on drywall is fixed in the following order: the first and the last at a distance of 300 mm from the wall, the distance between the other profiles is 600 mm (possibly less). The rest of the profiles are fixed to the ceiling at intervals of 600 mm. The number of profile CD-60 is equal to the number of rows multiplied by the length of the room

The bearing CD-60 profile is suspended on U-shaped hangers with a step of 1 m. Jumpers from the CD-60 profile with a pitch of 0.6 m are installed between the bearing profiles.For connection, use a cross-shaped connector (crab)

The number of gypsum plasterboards is equal to the area (for this you need to multiply the width of the room by its length). When calculating, add 5% to the resulting figure. This is necessary to compensate for material consumption when trimming

It is important to know! For accurate calculations, it is recommended to draw a floor plan (top view). Mark on it all dimensions (length, width, level of the future ceiling), the axes of the bearing profiles, the attachment points of the U-shaped suspensions, the location of crabs and lintels.

For finishing the plasterboard ceiling, gypsum putties and deep penetration primers are used. It is important to know! In order to prevent cracks from appearing at the joints of the gypsum boards, the joints are reinforced with self-adhesive fiberglass mesh and putty with a special putty for joints.

The consumption of gypsum putty from different manufacturers is approximately the same. It is 0.46 kg per 1 square meter of the ceiling with a layer thickness of 1 mm. A primer is pre-applied. Consumption of liquid primer is about 200 - 300 grams per 1 sq.

An expensive tool can be rented from a specialized construction tool store. All the rest is likely to be found in every home master.

Before hemming the ceiling with plasterboard using a water or laser level, mark a horizontal plane on the walls. The minimum height at which the ceiling is lined with plasterboard is 3 cm. If built-in spotlights are used, then the ceiling level is lowered by 10 or 12 cm, depending on the size of the lighting device.

If only a chandelier is used, the plasterboard ceiling frame can be lowered to the thickness of the CD-60 ceiling support profile. At the place of its attachment, an embedded plywood piece 40 x 40 cm and 10 mm thick is mounted to the existing ceiling.

The marks on the walls around the perimeter are connected using a painting, dyeing thread. On the ceiling, the axes are also marked for fixing direct suspensions and bearing profiles.

Installation of the guide profile

Along the marked line along the perimeter with a step of 35 - 40 cm, the guide UD-27 profile is fastened using dowel-nails, quick installation. This operation is performed using a drill bit for concrete with a diameter of 6 mm and a hammer.

Direct suspensions are fixed along the lines on the ceiling with a pitch of 600 mm with dowels and self-tapping screws. Their perforated ends are lowered at an angle of 90 degrees.

The profile has a length of 3 or 4 m, therefore, if necessary, they are joined using a straight connector. Sometimes it is made from the same bearing profile.

The profile is attached to the mustache of the P-suspension with galvanized self-tapping screws 12 mm, two on each side. Do it with a screwdriver.

Installation of crabs and fastening of cross-bars

Crabs are attached to the bearing profiles with a pitch of 600 mm. Jumpers are mounted between the parallel profiles to the crabs. To do this, use segments from the same bearing profile. They are connected between the crabs and the guide profiles with 12 mm self-tapping screws.

What is the first thing that catches your eye when entering a room?

No doubt this is the CEILING.

A straight white ceiling has long been out of date and, frankly, is boring. A multi-level plasterboard ceiling is an excellent solution.

We have prepared for you everything you need to decide on the design of such a structure. And also choose the location of the built-in lighting.

175 photos of plasterboard suspended ceilings for bedrooms, living rooms and kitchens. Detailed help in choosing a ceiling for a small room. Laconic and convenient infographics for choosing a design style.

Plasterboard ceilings come in all sorts of shapes, colors, designs and easily fit into any style of the room, be it classic or modern. Supporters of a simple interior can limit themselves to a single-level composition, and for those who want to create something unique and creative, the market offers several options for designs for plasterboard ceilings.

Duplex plasterboard ceilings

Two-level ceilings give the room additional volume and allow you to change the shape of the room literally beyond recognition, making the interior rich and sophisticated. The complexity and quirkiness of the ceiling construction depends only on your imagination! Such ceilings are first of all striking and catch the attention of guests!

Sharp changes in height or smooth flexible lines, built-in lamps or unusual colors in the decoration - all these decor features can be brought to life with the help of drywall. Ceiling geometry allows you to create any shape: corners, curves, bent and broken lines. Depending on the interior of the room, the ceilings can also be decorated with painting or stucco.

With the help of height differences and competent lighting, they can be used as an additional technique for zoning the space of a room. And you can emphasize only certain interior items that you want to pay special attention to: bed, table.

Duplex ceilings will look great in. Drywall makes it possible to build any figures on the ceiling: a flower, the sun, an alien ship, a soccer ball ...

Lighting design for plasterboard ceilings

The main function of designer lighting is not even lighting, but rather creating a special mood and a pleasant atmosphere in the room. There are a lot of options for its design, but LEDs and LED strips are the most popular. They provide soft, uniform illumination, visually increasing the depth of the ceiling and creating the so-called "floating" effect. By combining models of different glow colors and shapes, you can come up with your own unique design.

Types of designer lighting:

Standard... Such lighting is simple to implement: simple ceiling rails for lamps and standard pendant lights are enough for it.

Target... Suitable for zoning space, visually separating different parts of the room from one another. For example, in a place of active pastime, the light can be made brighter, and in the relaxation zone - muted tones and soft light.

Decorative... Bright contrasting colors or gentle light with tints: well-thought-out lighting, in harmony with the furniture of the room and decor elements, will help create the atmosphere and festive mood you need in the interior.

Plasterboard ceilings for the kitchen: choice of design

In the design of the ceiling in the kitchen, correct geometric shapes are most often used. A circular layout is good for highlighting the center of a room, and rectangular ceilings are great for adjusting the shape of the room. For example, a square shape is recommended for, which visually expands the walls. For the kitchen, you can also pick up wavy shapes of unusual and bizarre configurations, starting with ordinary ovals and ending with unimaginable zigzags.

Attention! In a kitchen with low ceilings, complex structures cannot be placed: choose one or two simple shapes! When designing the shape of the ceiling, always measure the dimensions of the decor elements with the height of the room so that everything looks harmonious.

Design ceilings made of plasterboard not only radically transform, but are also good from a practical point of view. Drywall has great moisture resistance, excellent sound insulation and fireproofing, which will provide you with the beauty and successful operation of your kitchen for many years.

Ceiling design in a small kitchen

Plasterboard ceilings are recommended to be placed only in kitchens with high ceilings or above average, as they take away the height of the room and reflect light poorly. For a small kitchen with low ceilings, you can make a two-level structure or simply place a slight cornice around the perimeter: this will help to visually "raise" the ceiling higher and make the space more airy and free. You can experiment with color and think of a different color scheme for each level.

An interesting design technique is the so-called "floating" ceiling. The floating effect of the ceiling is achieved by mounting the second level in the center without visible side walls. The LEDs are placed inside this structure so that they are invisible, and only their light is visible.

Remember that luminaires built into the suspended ceiling must be evenly spaced throughout the kitchen area so that all functional areas are illuminated.

Ceiling in the kitchen-living room: competent zoning

What points should be taken into account when choosing for such an unusual room as a combined kitchen-living room?

As we have already mentioned, it is important to provide for a functional division into zones: work (kitchen) and resting place (dining room-living room). Boundaries between rooms can be created using unusual ceiling architecture, building various geometric shapes or dividing lines. Decorative lighting and the use of different materials when decorating the ceiling in the kitchen and living room will help to enhance the effect.

Divide into zones not only the ceiling, but also the walls and floor. Play with the design, duplicate different elements to highlight the overall style! This design will make your kitchen unusual, fashionable and look much more interesting than the standard white ceiling painting.

How to decorate the ceiling in the bedroom?

The most popular among designer ceiling structures are wavy lines and irregular shapes: there are no limits! Any of your decorating ideas, be it an asymmetric finish, multi-tiered friezes, medallions, arches, columns and domes - all this will be relevant and will perfectly fit into the bedroom interior!

Tiered ceilings are usually arranged directly above the bed. Avoid bright and eye-catching colors: the design should be relaxing! Ceilings in warm light and muted tones will do the job best.

Design for a small bedroom

Choosing the right color scheme will help enrich the interior of a small room and make it more spacious. Traditionally painted white. But you can think of something more interesting: for example, a soft blue suspended ceiling will resemble an open sky. Another unusual option for a bedroom is to paint the middle of the ceiling with a deep warm color (for example, burgundy), and use lines from the center to make a systematic transition to the color scheme of the walls.

The use of glossy surfaces helps to expand small rooms ... but that's not the case! In the bedroom, bright shine will only distract, so it is better to give preference to matte ceilings.

Avoid complex shapes and multi-level structures: the jumble of different elements will visually narrow the space. Such decoration is permissible only when it is necessary to delimit the functional areas of the room or to create an accent on any design element.

Correcting a narrow bedroom

Unfortunately, square or narrow bedrooms in an apartment are far from uncommon! The main feature of such a bedroom is high ceilings, but this height can be easily adjusted using color. For a visual increase in height, pale tones are suitable, and dark colors will help "lower" the top. If you paint the walls two tones darker than the ceiling, it will also make it lower. Remember that ceiling and floor colors must always be different!

Do not be afraid to experiment and feel free to use such original colors for the ceiling of a narrow bedroom as light tones of pink, purple, orange, coffee.

Be sure to integrate a lot of spotlights into the ceiling structure. A large amount of light in the room will create the illusion of a spacious free space.

Original design for a bedroom of 12-14 sq m

Creative in the children's bedroom

A plasterboard ceiling is a great opportunity to realize all your original creative ideas in a children's room.

In addition to the incredible ceiling design, which, moreover, can be easily built on your own, it also has other visible advantages:

Single and multi-level ceilings can combine chandeliers, lamps, and built-in lighting, which will provide a sufficient amount of light in the room and help divide it into zones. In addition to central lighting, additional lamps with different light intensities must be present throughout the room in the nursery. The study area should be best lit, the sleeping area should be made darker, and in the center of the room, where there is a lot of light at any time of the day, leave a place for games.
With the help of drywall, you can create interesting ceilings and lamps in the form of all kinds of shapes such as a butterfly, a flower, an airplane, a bird, which you can think of depending on the interests of the child.

Custom ceiling designs can also be hand painted. This method is still little known and not widespread, but it allows you to realize any desire of your child and make the room for him really special and dear.

The choice of an arsenal for repairs in a children's bedroom should always be approached especially responsibly. Drywall is a natural and environmentally friendly material, so you don't have to worry about your child's health.

To decorate the ceiling in the living room, designers advise using designs of geometrically correct shapes: these will be all kinds of circles or shapes that emphasize the framing of the base ceiling of the room.

Plasterboard ceilings will help you solve the problem for several zones. Spotlights and various decorative inserts will create a special atmosphere and will be the final touch when creating a unique room design.

Your ceiling project should organically fit into the style of the hall itself. For example, in a glossy ceiling it will look at least strange, this option is more suitable for high-tech or modern.

Hall decoration in Khrushchev

A hall in Khrushchev is, as a rule, a room of a small area with ceilings up to 2.5 meters high and practically zero sound insulation. Therefore, when planning a room and ceilings, it is necessary to choose such design solutions that will help correct these features for the better.

Say no to a large chandelier that will only clutter your living room and make it look lower. The best option is a small suspended ceiling with built-in spot lighting: diffused lighting will visually increase the space. Sound insulation can be laid into the suspended structure, which will provide the necessary sound protection.

Another interesting design solution is to combine plasterboard and glossy ceilings, which will reflect light and visually "raise" the ceiling surface.

Choose colors in warm light tones. And if you make the ceiling and walls of the same color, then the boundaries of the room seem to blur, and this will also create the illusion of a large space.

Spacious living room 20 sq. m.

The area of \u200b\u200bthe room may seem large at first glance, but its visual and actual size depends more on the ceilings. If they are low, then you should not build complex two- or multi-level structures that will visually reduce the living room: one level will be quite enough. For a low ceiling, choose tones that will be lighter than the walls, or glue that will visually "lift" the ceiling.

To illuminate a large room, it is recommended to use plasterboard structures with built-in spotlights that have a function of adjustable zone lighting. Then, if necessary, you can adjust the amount of light in each part of the room. For example, turn on only two lights above the closet or three lights above the bed.

Do-it-yourself plasterboard ceiling

If you have even the slightest skill, installing drywall will not be a difficult task for you. You just need to know some of the features of drywall sheets and what to do with them, how to design everything and successfully hide all the flaws of the finish under the ceiling. We will tell you about all this now.

First of all, you will need to take an inventory of your tools and, if necessary, buy missing accessories and materials, such as, for example, hangers, screws, profiles and dowel-nails. Take a profile of at least 4 meters in order not to face the need to dock them.

The first level of the frame is always mounted in the same way. Before the drywall turns into a full-fledged structure, you will need to install a simple single-level ceiling. To do this, we make markings on the ceiling using a laser level and place a wall profile at a distance of ten centimeters from the main ceiling.
The size of the indentation will depend on how the fixtures and engineering systems are located in the interceiling area. Use the laser level again to align the frame.
Fix the longitudinal profiles by placing them at a distance of about 500-600 mm. The size of the profiles, as a rule, is fixed, therefore, when installing the ceiling in a large room, they will need to be spliced \u200b\u200btogether using special devices.
Make suspensions above the ceiling profile. Fix them with an anchor or with dowel-nails. Attach the guides to the hangers and fix them with self-tapping screws.

All these actions will require extreme concentration and accuracy in measurements from you. Now that the main ceiling frame has been made, the question arises again: how can we design a plasterboard ceiling ourselves?

First, conduct electrical wiring, ventilation, communication, so that all wires are hidden under the ceiling before the sheets are placed. You can make holes for installing the lighting both before and after installation.
If your room is not completely flat, then when placing drywall sheets, sloppy joints can form. Therefore, before tinkering the ceiling and starting to lay out the sheets, you will need to pre-cut slightly the places of these joints with the wall or corner of the room so that your sheet will lay down nicely and neatly. First, take and treat all sheets with a special primer to ensure they are well waterproofed.
Leave a distance of a few millimeters from the ceiling to the wall so that the drywall sheets can "breathe" freely and do not deform then under the influence of high temperatures.
Begin to fasten the sheets along the supporting profiles, strictly observing a checkerboard order: the first sheet must be fastened relative to the wall, and the next - from the longitudinal profile that comes first.
The installation stage is over! Now you need to make holes for fixing lamps, laying pipes and other communications.
Ceiling putty should only be started after the initial ground finish has been completed. Use one that will penetrate deeply into the joints: this will help make the drywall stronger and at the same time process the sheets themselves, preventing the formation of mold, microorganisms and other fungi on the ceiling.
The installation of drywall sheets is complete, it remains only to add various decorations and decorative elements to them.

Decorating a plasterboard suspended ceiling with your own hands in most cases is fraught with many doubts. A wide range of materials and colors, a variety of design solutions - all this does not in any way contribute to making it easy to choose something specific.

Why drywall?

Drywall type (brand)	Application area	Leaf color	Marking color
Normal (GCR)	Wall and ceiling decoration; erection of non-bearing partitions	Gray	Blue
Moisture resistant (GKLV)	Finishing of walls and ceilings of kitchens, bathrooms; erection of partitions in rooms with high humidity	Green	Blue
Fire resistant (GKLO)	Finishing of air ducts and communication shafts; finishing of metal structures in civil buildings	Gray	Red
Moisture-resistant (GKLVO)	Finishing of structures to achieve the required degree of fire resistance in wet rooms (kitchens, bathrooms, bathrooms, baths, saunas, etc.)	Green	Red

Among the variety of finishing materials, experts advise to choose drywall. This is one of the most popular materials in our country, which, thanks to the latest developments, has recently acquired such qualities as resistance to moisture and high temperatures. In this regard, drywall can be:

The popularity of the material is due to numerous advantages, including:

no need for complex preparatory procedures - material processing is as simple as possible;
low cost;
ease of processing and installation;
wide range of applications;
unpretentious care (you need to wipe the ceiling with a damp cloth every few months).

But there are also disadvantages:

lack of elasticity (in which drywall loses to PVC film);
susceptibility to moisture (if the material is not moisture resistant);
flammability (if not fire resistant, respectively).

Prices for drywall and sheet materials

Drywall and sheet materials

Stage 1. Drafting

You need a project to work. To create it, you can use one of the special architectural programs that allow you to get a ready-made scheme and the required amounts of consumables. If you do everything the old fashioned way, you will have to spend much more time and effort.

Step 1. Using a special formula, the perimeter is determined. It looks like this (if the size of the room is, for example, 5x4 m):

(5 + 4) x 2 \u003d 18 m (P)

It turns out that the length of the guide profiles will be 18 m. Then the obtained data are displayed on graph paper.

Note! If the length of the opposite walls is different (this is quite common), then a larger indicator is taken for calculations.

Step 2. After that, you need to start calculating the frame profile. Profiles 6x2.7 cm will be used in the work - they will be fixed in increments of 0.6 m. It is important that the length of each profile is equal to the width of the room. To calculate the number of slats, the width of the room (400 cm) must be divided by a step (60 cm). As a result of simple calculations, we get: 6.66 (the amount is rounded up to 7.0).

The first and last slats are attached 10 cm from the surface of the walls, and all the rest - according to the above step.

Note! A step of 60 cm was not chosen by chance. The fact is that the standard width of drywall sheets is 0.6 or 1.2 m.

The rail attachment points are transferred to the project.

400/60 x 7 \u003d 47 pieces.

The first and last suspension is fixed 30 cm from the wall surface. The attachment points are indicated in the diagram with crosses. We also note that it is preferable to use spring suspensions, while straight lines are acceptable only in two cases:

with an absolutely flat ceiling surface;
with a structure height over 12 cm.

Step 4. After that, you need to determine the number of jumpers that will give the structure rigidity.

((400/60) - 1) x 7 \u003d 40 pieces.

Step 5. It remains only to determine the required number of screws and drywall sheets. With a known area of \u200b\u200bthe room (20 m2) and sheet (3 m2), it is quite easy to do this - you will need almost five sheets of material.

There should be no difficulties with self-tapping screws either:

Drywall will be fixed with “thirties” self-tapping screws (step length - 25 cm);
60x6 products will be used for walls (step length - 30 cm) and ceiling (60 cm);
lN11 screws will be used for the fittings: for "crabs" and profiles - 4 pcs., for suspensions and profiles - 2 pcs.

You also need to note the number of lighting devices and determine the length of the wiring.

Stage 2. Preparation of equipment and consumables

Of course, each master has his own list of necessary tools, since in this matter a lot depends on the skill and ability to use them. But there are those without which you will hardly be able to successfully complete the job:

Note! Depending on the characteristics of the ceiling, the list can be supplemented, for example, with clamps for joining profiles located at different heights (if there are large stones in the concrete that interfere with normal drilling), etc.

Step 3. Guide frame

After preparing everything you need, you can start working.

Step 1. First, use a tape measure to determine the lowest corner of the room. It is labeled:

5 cm from the ceiling, if the installation of built-in lighting devices is not planned;
9 cm if planned.

Step 2. Using a level, a similar height is marked in the remaining corners. After that, several more marks are placed along each wall at the height of the first point; all marks are connected with a pencil using a stretched cord or a long ruler. Although there is another option - to mark these lines pointwise.

Step 3. A guide profile is attached to the walls. If joint seams are planned between the corners (and in large rooms there is nothing without it), then it is necessary to additionally strengthen the structure in order to avoid the elements "moving away" under its weight. Any dense material - tin, plastic or plywood - is suitable for this, which must be applied over each seam and secured to the wall with strong dowels.

Note! For this, a special sealing tape ("serpyanka") is more suitable, but it is not sold in all hardware stores.

After that, the corner joints of the profile are strengthened.

Stage 4. Main ceiling profile

Step 1. As noted above, most often drywall sheets are 120 x 250 cm in size, which is why it is advisable to fix the ceiling profiles in 40 cm increments - this way each sheet will be fixed at the edges and twice in the middle.

The ceiling is marked with parallel lines with a forty centimeter pitch.

Step 2. Every 2.5 meters (that is, at the transverse joints) jumpers are attached from the same profile. Of course, if the sheet sizes are different, then the distance is determined individually. At the joints, "crabs" are installed.

Step 3. Next, you need to determine the location of the suspensions. The first of them is installed 25 cm from the wall surface, all subsequent ones - with a step of 50 cm. Anchors are used to fix the suspensions (ordinary dowels will not work, because they have no thread, and the structure can be pulled out of the ceiling by gravity).

Step 4. Ceiling profiles are attached to the hangers. It is necessary to start from the corners of the room. That's it, the frame for the false ceiling is ready.

Stage 5. Thermal insulation

If desired, the suspended ceiling can be insulated by means of a special system of fasteners, which is popularly called "fungus".

Prices for popular types of insulation

Insulation

Stage 6. Installation of plasterboard sheets

First, you should understand a number of important nuances: drywall is extremely sensitive to high humidity, temperature, and deformation. Therefore, it is necessary to store the material exclusively in a horizontal position, and a few days before the start of work, move it to the room where the repair is being carried out so that it “lies down”. This will allow you to adapt the structure of the material to specific conditions.

Further actions should be carried out according to the instructions.

Step 1. First, the material for those places where you need less than a whole sheet.

Step 2. The chamfer at the edge is removed by means of a mounting knife - this will ensure deeper penetration of the filler material into the crevices.

Step 3. Fastening the drywall starts from one of the corners, the first screw is placed 10 cm from the edge. The distance between the screws is 20 cm.

Note! The screw heads must be sunk without fail. It is also important that the screws on the "adjacent" sheets are not located opposite each other, but out of order.

Step 4. The following sheets are installed. A small gap (about 2 mm) remains along the perimeter, the sheets are joined with a minimum shift of 1 cell. It is necessary to ensure that each sheet is attached both in the center and at the edges.

Video - Installing a false ceiling

Stage 7. Final finishing of the ceiling

Particular attention is paid to the seams, since the aesthetics of the future structure directly depends on the quality of their sealing.

Step 1. First, the seams are sealed with a primer - this will change the porous structure, it will become denser and, as a result, will better absorb the putty. After that, you need to wait until the primer is completely absorbed and dry.

Step 2. Putty is applied to the heads of the screws and the seams between the sheets. To do this, you need to use only a high-quality spatula, with sharp and even edges.

It should be special, designed for seams (this point needs to be clarified in a hardware store or in the manufacturer's instructions).

Step 3. When the seams are completely dry, they should be glued with seam tape. It is characteristic that the joints are sealed with an overlap. The tape is processed with a putty, all the cracks found are repaired in parallel.

Step 4. After drying, a topcoat is applied (eg paint, plaster, etc.).

Step 5. Are mounted (if they are provided by the previously drawn up project).

Video - Installation of spotlights

Note! By setting from drywall do it yourself, do not forget about personal protective equipment. Use glasses and a respirator - they will keep you healthy.

Operating rules

The quality of the ceiling largely depends on the moisture resistance of the plasterboard used. The average humidity in the premises is 40-75%, as a result of which regular ventilation is desirable.
To increase the lifespan of the suspended ceiling, clean the surface in time. This can be done with a dry or damp cloth (in the latter case, add a small amount of cleaning agent to the water).
The use of abrasive materials is strictly prohibited!
So that the temperature inside the structure does not differ from the temperature in the room, the panels are removed immediately after installation. Next, a layer of vapor-proof material is laid (even if the insulation was previously installed).
Pencil stains can be removed with a regular eraser.
The internal space of the structure must be ventilated, for which a gap of about 2 mm must be left around the perimeter.

As you can see, it is quite easy to install a suspended ceiling, but only with the appropriate tools and detailed instructions.

TOP 5 best drywall manufacturers

	A photo	Name	Rating	Price
#1		Knauf	⭐ 100 / 100
#2

When performing apartment renovations, a home craftsman is often faced with work on the ceiling, which is always in the field of vision of any visitor and therefore is important in the design of any room.

Thanks to the availability of a wide range of drywall sheets and various fasteners for it on sale, you can create a perfectly flat ceiling with your own hands, providing a beautiful interior of the room. This will require a simple set of tools and the ability to use them with.

How to choose drywall for the ceiling

Since the entire structure rises to a height and is fixed there, you should pay attention to its weight. The larger it is, the more difficult it is to perform high-quality work, to take measures against collapse.

The types of drywall sheets produced by the industry are described in the article. When choosing them for the ceiling when renovating an apartment with your own hands, you should not take those that are thicker than 12.5 mm. It is optimal to use 9.5 or 8.0 mm. Otherwise, the total weight of the suspended ceiling structure can be quite large.

Comparative evaluation of the weight of drywall sheets
Sheet size and area in meters	Sheet weight in kilograms with a thickness in mm
Sheet size and area in meters	12,5	9,5	6,0
1.2 ∙ 3.0 \u003d 3.6 square meters	36	27	18
1.2 ∙ 2.5 \u003d 3.0 square meters	29	22	16
1.2 ∙ 2.0 \u003d 2.4 square meters	23	18	12

It is enough to determine the total area of \u200b\u200b\\ u200b \\ u200bthe ceiling, and from it, knowing the characteristics of one sheet, taken from the table, calculate the total weight.

False ceiling installation steps

The work is reduced to the sequential execution of technological operations:

determination of the plane for placing the base surface and drawing its markings on building structures;
installation of a retaining frame made of metal profiles, taking into account electrical wiring highways and low-current circuits;
fastening drywall sheets;
putty and surface finishing.

How to mark a false ceiling

The ideal solution is to mount the structure strictly in, which is well perceived by our vision. It is convenient to use it to embody various ideas of designers.

When doing apartment renovations with your own hands to mark the horizon, you can use ordinary hydraulic levels with bubble indicators or various designs of laser levels. The use of the latter greatly facilitates the drawing of the base plane, allows it to be completed quickly and efficiently.

In order to mark the depth of the plasterboard surface lowering from the ceiling, you will need to draw its horizon level on the walls.

The laser beam allows you to quickly identify the boundaries of the horizontal plane. To mark it, you should determine the lowest point on the ceiling slabs and retreat from it by a minimum size of 4 cm. This distance is necessary to hide the profiles and conveniently fix them with suspensions.

If they are installed close to the ceiling, then it will be quite difficult to work, and a greater distance reduces the amount of free space in the room.

In the places marked by the laser beam, clearly visible control points are applied with a marker pencil. They beat off the entire line with a dyeing paint cord. To do this, it is fixed at the edges, and then abruptly released.

When marking up, do not forget to take into account the thickness of the drywall sheet.

This is done around the entire perimeter of the room, drawing a single closed line along the walls. After that, it is necessary to draw the markup for installing profiles along the width of the ceiling and attaching drywall to them.

Each sheet should be secured along the perimeter and centerline. With a standard width of 120 cm, the center will be 60 cm from the edge. At this distance from the wall, markings are carried out for fastening the profiles.

Each line should coincide with the junction of the drywall sheet in the center of the intermediate profile. Along it, holes for the dowels will be drilled in the ceiling at the same distance for fastening the suspensions with self-tapping screws, which regulate and hold the intermediate profile.

It is convenient to mark the ceiling lines along the long side of the room. You need to start work from one wall and gradually move on to the opposite. The last row may be shorter. Sheets of drywall will have to be cut for it.

How to mount the frame for false ceiling installation

The first plasterboard structures were attached to the ceiling through dried wooden slats. However, wood is susceptible to moisture, shrinkage and deformation. After a certain period of time, cracks and defects may appear on the outer surface. For these reasons, modern technology involves the installation of drywall only on metal profiles specially created for these purposes.

General rules

The principle of installation of a plasterboard structure is based on rigid attachment of a guide profile to the walls and the installation of an intermediate profile into it, which is additionally adjusted and held on suspensions bolted to the ceiling.

Of the standard range of profiles produced by the industry for fixing drywall, UD27 is suitable as guide models, and CD60 as intermediate models.

You will also need tape suspensions, the number of which depends on the profile assembly scheme.

Installation of the guide profile

The line drawn on the wall serves as a guide for the installation of the lower surface of the mounted profile.

To do this, it is pre-drilled and applied to the installation site. After orientation on the wall, a marker pencil is inserted through the holes created, leaving a visible mark. According to the created markings, holes are punched with a puncher and dowels are hammered into them.

This installation will support the entire suspended ceiling structure. It must be performed reliably.

Fastening the intermediate profile

Its length should be strictly measured and correspond to the size of the room. If it is larger, then the excess part can be cut off with a grinder or a hacksaw for metal. When the standard size of 3 meters is not enough, then the missing piece is increased by connecting through an adapter with a screw fastening.

The intermediate profiles prepared along the length are inserted into the guides fixed to the wall in such a way that their wide part of the base faces down to the drywall sheets.

Before performing this operation, tape hangers are installed along the previously outlined lines on the ceiling. They are used to adjust the created horizontal plane of the suspended ceiling. Controlling the work, it is convenient to use a tight thread or cord and tape measure.

The distance of the profile from the surface of the stationary ceiling of the order of one centimeter is needed so that it is convenient to fasten it with a self-tapping screw for metal and adjust the level of the horizontal plane by inserting a fingertip into this gap.

After fixing the profile, the free ends of the suspension are bent to the side.

How to install electrical wiring in a false ceiling

The rooms should be thought out in advance, before starting the repair of the apartment with your own hands. To do this, think over and determine the installation locations of the junction boxes.

It is impossible to clutter up and hide the connection points of cables and wires inside building structures. Access to them must be free. Otherwise, in the event of a power failure, you will have to look for the cause of the breakdown and break the created decorative coatings.

Installation of electrical lines

Cables and wires for luminaires located in a false ceiling are placed in a corrugation or metal hose, protecting its surface from mechanical damage, and then fixed to the ceiling or in profiles.

An intermediate fastener or a separate suspension system is created, and spotlights can be mounted directly in drywall sheets.

Here it is necessary to provide questions to lighting devices, to ensure their required length.

Work with electrical wiring must be completely finished before installing the sheets on the frame.

How to prepare and fix drywall

Features of preparation of ends

Curly edges should be created around the entire perimeter of the surface of each sheet, which serve to fill the putty mortar. On factory products, they can have a different profile.

If you want to cut sheets of drywall, then professional builders form the edges with a special tool at the joints being created.

The home craftsman does not have such devices, but it is quite possible to get by with a simple plane for processing wood.

Its cutting blade is strictly fixed in the body and allows for a smooth, uniform cut.

You should not use an ordinary knife: you get a curved surface.

The edges are created in order to increase the volume of space for the putty mortar. If you do not do them, then due to its insufficient amount, cracks will form on the decorative surface over time.

Surface marking

On each sheet, prior to its installation on the ceiling, it is necessary to draw marking lines along which self-tapping screws will be screwed in for fastening to an intermediate profile hidden behind the surface. An ordinary tape measure and a paint cord will allow you to do this work quickly and efficiently.

Installing drywall on the frame

The weight of one sheet, depending on the thickness, can vary from 12 to 36 kg. Moreover, it has large dimensions. It is not quite easy to work with it and lift it from the floor to ceiling level: you need an assistant.

Among the builders, there are specialists who, with experience and prepared devices, do this work alone. The owner of the video, Severkola, demonstrates one of the ways to do this.

We do not recommend repeating these techniques without a certain building experience and skills in handling drywall.

Features of fastening sheets to the frame

Plasterboard installation is carried out with 35 mm self-tapping screws. So that they hold the heavy weight well, they are screwed in at a distance of 10 mm from the edge of the sheet and 10 ÷ 15 cm between themselves. Fastening is performed along the entire perimeter of the surface and the center line.

The pre-made clear marking of the suspended ceiling made of metal profiles and plasterboard sheets ensures that the self-tapping screws fit into the fastening elements.

The head caps must be flat. They are slightly recessed into the surface of the sheet for subsequent convenient puttying and leveling.

In the places where the sheets are joined, it is necessary to install additional profiles to ensure a snug fit of the drywall. The connection is made using transitional inserts, fastened on the thread, or suspensions of the "Crab" type.

Fastening sheets to them with self-tapping screws ensures increased rigidity of the structure, excludes the formation of cracks during operation.

A general view of the created structure with a lead-out power cable is shown in the photo.

Putty and finishing

From consumables for this work, you will need to purchase the putty itself and the tape that reinforces the joints of the plates.

The technology of the correct execution of the sequence of operations is well shown in the video of the owner "Work Front" "High quality ceiling putty". We recommend that you carefully read this material because a certain part of the builders violates these rules, simplifying their work.

28 September, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works (foundation laying, wall construction, roof construction, etc.). Internal construction work (laying of internal communications, rough and final finishing). Hobbies: mobile communications, high technology, computer technology, programming.

Today I will talk about how to make a plasterboard suspended ceiling. In my opinion, this is one of the rather simple ways to arrange it. The instructions below are understandable even for the most inexperienced novice builders.

Using it, you can do all the work yourself, saving on the wages of builders. And since the price of the material itself is not so high, the cost of the entire project will be quite affordable.

Ceiling arrangement and necessary materials

Structurally, a plasterboard ceiling is a frame that is attached to the walls and ceiling of the room, and then sheathed with gypsum plasterboard, after which it is decorated with decorative materials. The frame can be single-level and multi-level.

If you have not made drywall suspended ceilings with your own hands before, I advise you to stop at the first option. It is about him that will be discussed further.

To construct a single-level frame, you need galvanized ceiling profiles PP (CD) 60 by 27 mm and PPN (UD) 28 by 27 mm. To connect them together, self-tapping screws for metal and single-level connectors ("crabs") are used.

I will hang the profiles from the ceiling on U-shaped brackets ("pawns"). You can replace them with spring hangers. The brackets and profiles will be fixed to the walls with screws and plastic dowels.

I recommend using drywall 9.5 mm thick, 1200 mm wide and 2500 mm long. If you are going to sheathe a room with a high level of humidity (bathroom, toilet), you need to buy a moisture-resistant green gypsum board. In all other cases, standard brown (grayish) will do.

If you follow the tips listed above, you will achieve the optimal combination of strength and weight. The normal value is 13 kg per 1 square meter of ceiling.

As for the tools, you will need:

perforator for making holes in the floor slab and enclosing walls;
screwdriver for tightening self-tapping screws;
scissors for metal for cutting profiles;
laser or water level for marking;
tools for plasterboard filling.

The very process of installing gypsum board on the ceiling consists of only three stages:

Beginning of work

So, before making a plasterboard suspended ceiling with your own hands, it is necessary to properly prepare the floor and develop a project for the future structure.

Surface preparation

I want to say right away that the suspended ceiling perfectly hides all the defects of the floor slab. Therefore, the preparation work will not be voluminous. Their main task is to ensure reliable fastening of the frame to the floor slab and walls.

To do this, I usually do the following:

Dismantling the old finish. You need to strip off old wallpaper or paint to a layer of putty or plaster. By the way, if the paint on the ceiling does not fall off, but is held very firmly, it is also not necessary to scrape it all off. It is enough to remove damaged areas that may crumble.

Repairing floor slabs. Before installing the gypsum board, it is necessary to repair the defects of the reinforced concrete ceiling slab. To do this, large gaps and cracks must be repaired using repair mortar or polyurethane foam.

If you find areas with exposed reinforcement, then before sealing it is necessary to clean the metal of rust, coat it with a rust converter, and after the latter has dried, seal the cracks.

Dirt surface.This operation removes dust from the ceiling slab. If you are going to make a ceiling in a room with high humidity, it is better to take a primer with antiseptic properties, designed to work on a mineral base.

I install engineering communications.Before installing the ceiling, you must take care of the installation of engineering systems. Usually we are talking about ventilation ducts and electrical cables. I recommend making the first ones from plastic pipes. And place the wires in protective corrugations, which will protect them from fire in the event of a short circuit.

It is not necessary to bring the ceiling to the ideal and level it strictly according to the level. After all, this will be done using a frame and drywall sheets.

Project development

Now let's get down to creating a project for the future ceiling. Again, if you are going to design a complex multi-level ceiling, I recommend using specialized computer applications for this. They will also calculate the amount of materials required.

In the case I am describing, the ceiling will be one-level, without complex zigzags and steps. Therefore, you can calculate it yourself. I will give an approximate calculation scheme for a room measuring 3 by 6 meters:

First you need to determine the perimeter of the room - ours will be equal to 3 + 3 + 6 + 6 \u003d 18 meters. This is exactly how much the UD ceiling guide profile will need. Naturally, take with a small margin, in case something goes wrong. In addition, they will need to be invested in each other, which also needs to be taken into account.
When measuring a room, measure all walls. There are times when opposite walls are not equal to each other. Then take more value.
Next, you need to calculate the amount of the CD supporting ceiling profile. In my case, it will be attached at a distance of 50 cm from each other across the room. Accordingly, 600/50 cm \u003d 12 pieces. This is for the case when the gypsum board will be attached along the room. The length of the sheet is 2500 mm, that is, its edges will fall just on the bearing parts.
If you will lay sheets of plasterboard across the room, the distance between the bearing profiles should be 60 cm (since the width of the sheet is 120 cm). Then 600/60 \u003d 10 pieces.
At the next stage, the number of U-shaped suspensions is calculated. They are attached to the bearing profile at a distance of 60 cm. The length of the profile in our case is 3 meters. That is, 300/60 \u003d 5 suspensions. We have 12 profiles. That means 12 * 5 \u003d 60 suspensions.
Remember that the first and last hangers must be fixed at a distance of 30 cm from the wall, and the rest must be fixed at a distance of 60 cm from each other.
You also need to calculate the number of crabs. You will need 24 of them, that is, twice as many as CD carrier profiles.

The number of screws and dowels can also be counted, but I do not advise you to stop there. Buy a box of self-tapping screws for fastening profiles, for screwing drywall and screws with dowels for mounting the frame on the walls.

Step-by-step installation guide for gypsum board

Sequencing:

Doing markup... First you need to arm yourself with a laser or bubble level and beat off a line on the enclosing walls of the room, which will be located strictly horizontally. In my case, the floor slab has ledges-ribs, so I drew the line a little lower. You can draw a straight line or outline it with a dotted line as shown in the photo below.

These marks will later serve as a guideline for fixing the UD ceiling track profiles.

Next, I take an ordinary metal drill with a diameter of 7 mm and drill holes in the guide parts, which will be needed in the future to install screws with dowels.

The holes must be drilled in the profile at a distance of 50 cm from each other. The extreme ones should be at a distance of 10 cm from the profile cut. I make holes in the profile in advance in order not to drill the part with a drill with a victorious tip (which is intended for concrete walls).

I mount the guide profiles on the walls... To do this, I attach the profile to the drawings (lines) made on the wall, after which I drill holes in the walls through the pre-drilled holes using a punch. The drill diameter in this case is 6 mm.

After that, I insert a dowel-nail into the hole made in the wall (of course, with the attached profile). It is a plastic piece with a bulge at the end, into which a metal core is driven.

Dowel size 6 x 50 mm. The dowel is driven in simply with a hammer. If you make any mistake during installation, you can then unscrew it with a screwdriver or screwdriver.

At the corners of the room, the guide profiles are nested into each other, after which the joint is strengthened with a small self-tapping screw. If you need to splice two elements (if its length is not enough for the whole room), you just need to nest the two guides one into the other. In this place, it is imperative to drill a through hole and drive another dowel-nail into the wall.

Installing galvanized bearing profiles.As I already mentioned, in my case, the gypsum boards will be laid along the room. Accordingly, the distance between adjacent parts will be 50 cm. You need to take a tape measure and mark the walls, placing the risks at a distance of 50 cm from each other.

Then you need to adjust the profiles to the width of the room (if they are already). To do this, I recommend measuring the profile of the desired length (5 mm less than the distance between the walls), then using scissors to make cuts along the side shelves, and then bending and unbending the part just break it off. Then the top ones need to be cut slightly diagonally, as shown in the photo.

If the width of the room is such that the length of one part of the profile is not enough, you must use two products, splicing them together with a connector that you can buy in the store. If you don't have one at hand, you can make it yourself. The scheme is as follows:

i cut off a 20 cm piece from the CD part (slightly less);
after that I cut off two short shelves, which are located along the lateral sides of the profile;
then this part is bent exactly in the middle along the central groove so that the profile looks like the Latin letter W, This is clearly seen in the illustration below.

Then you need to insert the cut profiles into the guides. To do this, you need to place one end, then take the part diagonally and insert it into the opposite guide. In this case, the products should be located so that their center (it is visible on the profile) is exactly aligned with the mark on the wall.

If you have more than 50 cm between the last supporting bar or the wall of the room, you need to divide the remaining distance in half and install an additional profile in this place for strength. But keep in mind that the CD parts must be located so that the edges of the gypsum board are necessarily placed on them.

After you have placed all the profiles on the guides according to the markings, they must be fixed with self-tapping screws. I use one screw for each profile on each side. Self-tapping screws can be screwed in with a screwdriver.

I install the cross members of the bearing profiles.Here, too, I'll start with the markup. Considering that I will put a sheet of drywall along, it is necessary to measure a distance of 1200 mm from one of the walls and make the appropriate risks on each bearing profile. For this, it is better to use a marker, since the pencil draws poorly and is poorly visible on galvanized steel. You get the following markup.

To connect two elements of the frame at the same level, a special part is needed, which in the common people is called a "crab". It looks like this. It has special latches, thanks to which it is securely fixed to the CD profile.

These crabs need to be inserted into the already installed parts, guided by the pre-applied marks. To avoid longitudinal sliding of the bracket, it is advisable to fix it to the carrier with a self-tapping screw. For this, the parts have the necessary holes. One screw is enough.

Then crossbars are attached to the crabs. To do this, you need to cut the required number of parts (their length should correspond to the distance between the bearing profiles), and then fix them with two self-tapping screws. The outermost crossbeams are inserted into the support profile installed on the wall. The result will be the structure shown in the photo.

If the width of the room is more than 2.6 meters, you will need as many rows of transverse elements as there will be gypsum board joints. In my case, these are two rows. Everything for you will depend on the perimeter of the room. But the installation principle will remain the same.

It so happens that you miscalculated the number of crabs, and there were not enough brackets for mounting. Then you can fix several parts without them. To do this, you need to correctly cut the guide profile:

first you need to measure the profile, the length of which will be 40 mm longer than the distance between the guides;
then the side shelves should be cut in such a way that tongues form from the wide edge (their edges must also be cut off at a slight angle).

Then this part can be simply screwed onto the CD profile using one self-tapping screw. You need to orientate along the central stiffener. Basically, with this advice, you can completely stop using crabs. This will not affect the strength in any way.

I fix the frame on the concrete floor.Without this, the drywall structure will not hold securely, since its length is quite large. For fixation, U-shaped perforated suspensions are used, which the craftsmen call "pawns".

The hangers should hold the long bearing profiles at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. Therefore, you must first make marks on the details with a marker at the same distance from each other.

Above the marked places, you need to make two holes to secure the bracket. In order not to be mistaken, you can attach a bracket, and then make holes. As a result, it will turn out like this:

To fix the suspensions themselves, you can use dowel-nails or anchor bolts. In my case, I use screws that I screw into dry birch chops. This is due to the fact that the thickness of the floor slab in this room is not enough to reliably drive the dowels there. But this is only a feature of this particular installation.

Then I screw on the suspensions. In my case, the distance between the ceiling and the frame is such that you have to use two suspensions, placing them on either side of the supporting profile. But, as a rule, one suspension will do. Then you just need to bend its petals at an angle of 90 degrees with respect to the floor slab.

Mounting is done as shown in the photo:

Remember that you first need to fix all hangers to the ceiling without attaching them to the supporting profiles. Before screwing the brackets directly to the frame, the latter must be aligned relative to the horizontal, since now the profiles sag a little under their weight.

Now I'll tell you how you can easily align this whole structure:

First, you should raise the entire frame in the center so that it is obviously higher than the required level, and fix it in this state to the suspensions using self-tapping screws in two or three places. This will be a temporary attachment, which will then be removed.
Then you need to fasten the cord. A screw with a cord attached to it is twisted into a guide near one wall, then it is pulled across the room and screwed to the screw on the opposite guide profile. If you raised the ceiling (as described in the previous paragraph), then a small gap forms between the rope and the frame.

If you do not want to raise the ceiling, you can fasten the thread from the top of the guide profile. Then the ceiling will sag and still there will be a gap required for alignment.
After all the threads are stretched, you can align the profile along the landmark and fix it on the suspensions. Be sure to leave a gap of about 1 mm so that the already aligned parts do not disturb the plane formed by the tensioned ropes.

This surface leveling process takes up most of the time required for ceiling installation. But it must be done carefully and without haste, otherwise you will get a curved surface.

One more point. If after fastening you still have protruding parts of the brackets, you just need to bend them. Cutting is optional.

I carry out insulation of the ceiling surface.You can also omit this stage if ceiling insulation is not required. But in my case, the floor slab is too thin and requires thermal insulation. In addition, the material used will play the role of a soundproofing layer.

As thermal insulation, I will use foil foil 4 mm thick. An additional reflective heat shield will be effective enough so that thermal energy is not wasted through the ceiling.

The difficulty in my case is to fix the penofol, since I will not attach it to the profile with a stapler or screws. The way out for me was shoe glue.

By the way, you can replace it with liquid nails. Well, another alternative is the use of double-sided tape.

I missed the bottom surface of the profiles with glue, and then those areas of the foam that will be glued. After that, he completed the installation of insulation. Remember that you need to glue it so that the foil side is towards the living room. All this is clearly seen in the photo.

I fix the drywall sheets on the profile.It is best to do this with a companion who will hold the sheets while securing. But I will tell you further how you can still manage only on your own.

In this case, you need two T-shaped supports (or mops) to work. Their length should be such that, in an upright position, they practically abut against the surface of the ceiling frame (even without taking into account the thickness of the gypsum plasterboard). A support of the simplest design is shown in the photo.

Here's how to use this mop:

First, you need to install the mop against the wall in such a way that a gap forms between it and the ceiling, where you can place a drywall sheet in thickness.
Then you need to take a sheet of drywall and lean it on this support.
After that, you should grab the sheet by the opposite (lower) edge and raise it to the ceiling. In this case, the opposite edge should fit tightly into the wall and be fixed between the frame and the short part of the mop.
Having lifted it from the floor, you need to slip a second mop under the bottom and bring the sheet to the level of the previously made frame.
As a result, the plasterboard sheet will be pressed against the ceiling in the manner shown in the photo.

Then you can take a stepladder and fix the sheet on the frame with drywall screws. They need to be screwed along the edge of the sheet and into those areas where the profiles pass under the sheet. The distance between adjacent self-tapping screws should be 30-40 cm.

When screwing in the self-tapping screw, be sure to hold the gypsum board nearby with your hand. Because when screwing a self-tapping screw into a profile, the sheet may slightly move away from the surface. There is a danger that it will collapse from your props.

After screwing in, the screw head must not rise above the sheet level. It needs to be drowned a little deeper, but at the same time not completely destroy the sheet of cardboard that protects the gypsum from destruction.

The installation of all other sheets is carried out in the same way.

Finishing the ceiling. To do this, it is necessary to putty the places where the screw heads are visible, as well as the joints of the drywall sheets (fiberglass mesh is usually laid along the seams - serpyanka).

And the further design depends on you. The most common option is puttying and subsequent painting.

Summary

I hope the information provided is enough so that, relying on it, you can independently design a plasterboard ceiling. More tips are available in the video in this article.

You can leave your opinion on the information provided in the comments.