Variants of stops for swing gates and their manufacture by one's own hands. Anti-burglary of garages (protection against burglary)

Swing gates can be considered an ideal design, if not for one significant drawback - the tendency to spontaneously close from the slightest gust of wind. The result is scratches and dents on your favorite car, and sometimes even injuries of varying severity on the body of their owner.

Simple devices allow you to avoid troubles - clamps for sashes, which are popularly called stops. Those who have not realized the need to use them can support the swing gates with any object that comes to hand, or go to the store for a ready-made stopper. And you can strain your own mind, and make emphasis with your own hands.

Stoppers-constipation

The easiest and favorite option for home craftsmen. The stopper works much like an old-fashioned window latch, but its size is much more impressive. Such a device has not yet been mass-produced, but it is quite possible to make it yourself. For this you will need:

two steel tubes (one for each swing gate leaf) about 15 cm long and 1.6 cm in diameter;
steel plates 10 cm wide and 15 cm long;
pins freely entering the branch pipe, at least 20 cm long.

The whole process of making a latch with your own hands consists of several stages:

Steel tubes are welded to the plates and then attached to the bottom of the gate. For sashes sheathed with wood, this is done using self-tapping screws; the plate is simply welded to metal sashes.
A lever is welded to the upper end of the pin at a right angle, playing the role of a handle or just a pin, preheated on a gas burner, which is bent and inserted into the pipe.
Now we open the sash and find a place where it will be necessary to drive the counterpart of our “espagnolette” to a depth of about 30 cm. We take into account that the pin should enter it by at least 10 cm. Do not forget that the gate leaf can be located slightly higher than the entrance level.
So that the pin does not interfere with opening the swing gates, we weld a hook above the lock, on which the pin handle will rest.

But consider the disadvantages of this device. The return pipe, into which the pin should be lowered, can be covered with snow in winter and will have to be dug out, for which there is not always time. You can do without a counterpart, but in this case, the ends of the pins should be pointed. Such a latch will, of course, be less reliable than the original version, but in extreme cases it will do. If there are no steel pipes of the required diameter, you can slightly modify the fixture. Replace it with two or three loops. It turns out a simple, but quite effective design.

Stops on carabiners

An original and cheap solution to the problem of creating with your own hands. For implementation, you will need (for each of the wings of the swing gates):

cargo sling with a metal hook at the end;
small carabiner;
eyebolt with M8 thread.

From the tools you need a drill with an F7 drill, an M8 tap and a wrench for it, any adhesive-sealant. If you have experience using the above tools, then mounting the latch will take no more than half an hour. The process will consist of the following steps:

Two holes are drilled on the inside of the frame at the same height, and threads are cut into them.
The eyebolts are coated with sealant and screwed into the prepared holes.
Carabiners are put on eyebolts, and cargo slings are threaded through them.

The hooks can be hooked onto the adjacent garage door. But nothing prevents the use of a bracket fixed on a fence post or wall for these purposes. It can be mounted on any nearby solid structure and get a cheap and reliable stop, devoid of the disadvantages of a latch-constipation. Unfortunately, the appearance of this device is not very attractive, which many may consider a significant disadvantage.

Hook for aesthetes

A very simple device, but it does its job perfectly. It has a respectable appearance and even allows you to fix swing gate leaves in two or more positions. For manufacturing you need (on both wings):

metal corners 50 mm long, 80 cm and 15 cm;
a steel bar with a section diameter of 12 mm and a length of approximately 1.2 meters;
welding machine, self-tapping screws, drill, vise.

And now we perform a few simple steps:

In a larger corner, which will play the role of a hinge, three holes are drilled on one side for fastening to the gate frame. On the other hand, there are two holes at the edges, of such a diameter that the end of the steel bar freely enters into them.
Now the hardest part is making the hook. One side of the heated steel bar is bent into a ring (do not forget to leave a gap so that the hook can be put on the canopy!). The other side is given a U-shape. It's difficult, but quite possible.
Now a canopy is made from a smaller corner, for which two holes are drilled in it on one side for fastening to the sash, and in the middle of the other side - one hole for fixing the hook.
We fix the corners so that the larger one is on the gate frame, and the smaller one is on the sash. You can use self-tapping screws (for wooden gates) or welding (for metal ones) for these purposes. We put the hook on the canopy and finally bend the ring.

That's all, the length of the hook and the location of the holes will have to be calculated empirically, experimenting with the gate leaves. The result is a simple but reliable do-it-yourself emphasis. It will allow you to open the sash completely or leave the swing gate ajar.

Stopper

A simple device that can be used by someone with a gate lined with wood. To make it with your own hands, you will need a wooden block and a window hinge. One end of the loop is rigidly fixed at the end of the bar, the other is movably fixed on the gate leaf.

You can also make a metal analogue of this device, consisting of a pipe movably fixed to the sash. In the non-working position, the pipe rises up, and here it is held by a rope loop. To fix the gate, it is enough to lower the pipe. To increase the stop area, the top of the pipe should be cut at an angle.

Trap catch with pawl and spring

A more complex device that has the advantage of allowing the gate to be locked automatically. It consists:

The pipe with the dog is attached at the right distance from the wall. The bracket is fixed on the gate leaf. The principle of operation is quite simple. When the sash moves, the bracket attached to it raises the pawl, which then lowers and securely fixes the sash.

A similar device can be placed at the bottom of the gate, you just have to supply it with a spring. It will return the dog to a horizontal position. To subsequently close the gate, it is enough to slightly lower the dog with your foot.

Trap without spring

To make it, you need a thick steel plate that needs to be bent on one side and a handle welded to the bent end. A steel bar is welded to the bottom of the plate, which is subsequently inserted into brackets fixed to the ground.

Important condition! For the stop to work correctly, it is necessary that the flat part of the plate be much longer, and, therefore, heavier than the curved section. Then the gate leaf, when moving with its mass, will lower the curved end of the plate. After that, the remaining flat part under its own weight will lower, raise the curved end with the handle and fix the gate. To close the swing gate, just push the handle down.

The described clamps are far from all options for wind stoppers for do-it-yourself swing gates. Perhaps the described devices will serve as an impetus for your imagination, and you will come up with your own original way of solving the problem. And we can only wish good luck to the master!

Many owners of private lands pay special attention to their arrangement, independently inventing various useful gizmos.

One of these products is the yard gate, which to some extent act as the face of any private area.

For hand-made manufacturing, standard swing gates are best suited. But in order to make a really solid structure that will last more than one year, you should carefully prepare a reliable foundation.

For courtyard swing gates, this structural element is decisive. The fact is that evenness and normal functioning of the valves depend on the strength of the foundation.

If, during the construction of the gate, an unreliable underground foundation is made, after some time in the process of use, the supports will first begin to sag and tilt, and then loosen.

As a result, deformation of the entire structure will occur.

To prevent this from happening, special attention should be paid to the preparation of a monolithic foundation, which is done using a special construction technology.

A good foundation for a home gate is the underground bases of the pillars or the entire underground space in the area of \u200b\u200bthe structure carefully reinforced with crushed stone and cement mortar.

To date, there are several types of such foundations:

Fundamental reinforcement of supports. First, measurements are taken and holes are dug in the places established for the support pillars. Then racks in the form of metal pipes are installed in them according to the level and the recesses are filled up and strengthened with cement mortar. This is the simplest type of foundation.

For greater reliability, many craftsmen cover the pipes with facing bricks. In this case, in certain places, special holders are welded to the pipe for future fastening of the loops.

If necessary, the inner base of the brick pillar is reinforced with iron rod reinforcement and poured with mortar.

Solid foundation trench type. Such a device of the underground base of the gate is the most reliable. In this case, not only pits for bearing supports are dug, but a whole trench breaks out along the entire length of the gate. The oblong recess is reinforced from the inside with a reinforcing mesh, then, in certain places, support posts are installed in separate pits at a vertical level. As a result, the entire trench is covered with rubble and poured with a cement mixture.

Each of these types of foundations is prepared based on the size and weight of the overall gate structure. If you plan to make small swing gates up to 5 meters wide and up to 2 meters high, you can choose the first option and simply strengthen the supporting pillars.

If you want to make a massive metal gate with a gate up to 10 meters wide, you'd better dig a trench and prepare a solid solid foundation.

We make the foundation on our own

The durability of your swing gate will depend not only on the quality of the materials you use to build the product itself, but also on a properly prepared foundation.

Therefore, when building a foundation, you will need a detailed drawing. If you will strengthen the pillars, the standard scheme, which is presented below, will suit you.

For a more solid solid trench foundation, you can use the figure below for clarity.

Having decided on the structure of the fundamental foundation that is most suitable for you, you will need to prepare a certain set of materials and tools for work, which should include:

building level and tape measure;
shovel and hand drill (if necessary);
concrete mixer or electric drill with a nozzle "mixer";
crushed stone;
three or two metal pipes of the desired size, with a diameter of at least 10 cm;
sand;
water;
fittings;
welding machine (if necessary);
brick (if necessary);
cement.

Now you can get to work. First you need to take measurements and dig holes for support pillars or dig a trench, it all depends on what type of foundation you want to use.

The depth of the pits must be at least 1 meter, and the diameter is 10 cm larger than the cross section of the pipes themselves. The same parameters apply to the trench, it should be 1 meter deep and 10 cm wide on both sides of the edges of the support pipes.

If you make a trench, at its bottom you will still need to make recesses for the pillars.

Now it's time to properly tamp the bottom of the recesses and fill them with sand so that the pillow is at least 5-10 cm. After that, install the pipes in the openings, measuring the vertical with a building level.

If you are just strengthening the supports, fill the holes halfway with crushed stone, and then proceed with the manufacture of the building mixture.

To do this, pour cement and sand into a container in a ratio of 1: 3, add water in a proportion of at least 25% of the total mass. For greater strength, you can add a little crushed stone to the mixture.

Now use a concrete mixer or an electric drill with a mixer attachment and mix the mortar thoroughly. Let it brew for a few minutes.

After the cement mixture is ready, fill it with the remaining recesses at the bases of the pipes. The simplest foundation for strengthening the supports is almost ready, now it remains to wait a few days until it dries and, if necessary, overlay the supports with facing bricks.

After that, you can install the gate.

If you are using a trench base for your swing gates, you will need to prepare the reinforcement before installing the posts. To do this, take the required number of metal rods of a certain size, weld them together using a welding machine to get an oblong, rectangular parallelepiped.

Now install the resulting frame in the trench and insert the posts into the holes, filling them with building mixture.

Then completely fill the entire trench with cement mortar and wait a few days for it to dry. Such a foundation device will serve you for a long time.

So, given all these features, you can build an excellent foundation for swing gates.

The main thing is to take high-quality measurements, check the verticals of the supports with a building level and do not violate the sequence of actions.

A deaf fence is needed to protect and protect the private territory of a land or summer cottage. Naturally, the fence must have an entrance. At first, a gate was enough, then a gate was needed for the crew, and, as a result, for the car.

Metal gates and a gate will provide an entrance / entrance to the yard and guarantee safety for the residents of the house. Previously, iron gates were sheathed with sheet metal 3-5 mm, in modern conditions corrugated board is popular.

According to the method of opening, all types of gates made of metal / wood can be divided into two groups: swing and sliding.

According to the type of gate device: built-in (inside) and free-standing (nearby).

You can buy ready-made gates from a profiled sheet, order production in size or make it yourself. Let's take a closer look at the last option - homemade gates, as a cheap and affordable option.

Since swing gates are a simpler design to manufacture, we will describe how to make swing gates from corrugated board on our own. The strength and aesthetic properties of the profiled sheet, as well as the "price / quality" ratio, make it possible to speak about the expediency of such a choice of cladding. As for the gate, we will describe two options for the device.

Do-it-yourself gate from corrugated board -
step-by-step instruction

Step-by-step technology for manufacturing a structure with a separate gate.

Stage 1 - the dimensions of the gate from corrugated board with and without a gate

Note that the installation of swing gates involves taking into account the layout of the site / yard.

Profiled gate width

The width of the opening for the gate is determined based on the width of the car (including mirrors) plus one meter additionally, for a margin.

The width of the supporting pillars (columns) is also taken into account. When installing a gate with a free-standing gate, there will be three pillars. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the size of the gaps between the support pillars and the frame frame. As well as the size of the gap between the wings of the swing gates, taking into account the parameters of the fittings.

The optimal opening width for the gate is 4500-5000 mm.

The standard width of a corrugated gate is 1200 mm.

Advice. Since one sheet per sash is not enough, it is advisable to calculate the width of the sash based on the width of the corrugated sheet.

The table shows the dependence of the width of the gate leaf on the width of the profiled sheet.

The material was prepared for the site www.site

The height of the gate from corrugated board

The height of swing gates made of profiled sheet is 2200-2500 mm. This is due to the standard length of the corrugated sheet - 2,000 mm. Although the manufacturer can offer any length with a resolution of 50 mm.

In addition, the clearance from below (between the gate leaves and the ground) is taken into account, which is necessary to ensure the functioning of the gate during the formation of ice and high snow cover. The gap under the gate is 150-300 mm.

The height of the gate is affected by the presence of decorative elements on top. For example, the use of forging allows you to increase the height of the gate from corrugated board and decorate the structure decoratively, as a result of which the entrance group looks more respectable.

Advice. If the gap from the ground seems too large, you can install a removable bar from the bottom of the gate, which must be removed at the beginning of winter.

Stage 2 - Drawing of a gate from corrugated board

A scheme or drawing of a swing gate is necessary to simplify the calculation of the amount of material and the assessment of structural rigidity.

Two ways to make swing gates:

with one large sash (single sash). The disadvantage of this method can be considered that you need a lot of room to maneuver the gate, as well as their large windage. Reducing the windage due to additional frame parts leads to an increase in the load on the hinges, which in turn leads to a skew of the sash. This method is suitable only for gates with a small opening width or for wicket devices;

with two doors (double doors). All the disadvantages described above are eliminated, but the cost of manufacturing increases due to the addition of loops and frame elements. Perhaps a device with the same or with different widths of the shutters. Double-leaf swing gates have the advantage of being more resistant to wind loads.

The scheme of swing gates from corrugated board should contain:

overall width of the opening. It will be necessary, if necessary, to make a maneuver - when increasing the gaps or changing the size of the fittings;

the width of each sash;

number, width of racks and depth of burying of racks;

frame configuration indicating the width of its constituent elements;

location and width of the gate. This is an important aspect. The production of a gate from a corrugated board at the same time as the frame for the gate will reduce the project implementation time. And if the gate is located inside the gate frame, the drawing will allow you to take into account its location when marking and cutting blanks;

place of installation of loops;

place and method of installation of the lock;

location of the internal door latch (vertical latch).

On the drawing of the gate from the corrugated board, elements of the frame reinforcement are applied without fail. It is the visualization of the future gate that allows you to understand which of the elements to use and determine the place of its installation, taking into account the wind load.

Ways to strengthen the gate from corrugated board:

1. weld a corner for rigidity.

This method is suitable if the width of the wings is small (up to 1,500 mm, each). The corner can be solid (kerchief) or in the form of an angular jumper (spacer). The wider the corner or the closer to the center the jumper is installed, the stiffer the gate frame will be.

2. make a frame inside the frame or above it.

In the first case, workpieces of a smaller section are placed in the cells of the frame, and are tacked by welding in increments of 200-300 mm.

A continuous seam is not allowed in order to exclude deformation of the metal due to heating (so that it does not lead and twist).

In the second, a smaller section pipe is welded over the main frame. The figure shows a top view of such a reinforcement.

3. install transverse or diagonal jumpers.

It is important to set the jumpers correctly here. If the gate made of corrugated board has a slight windage and it is enough for it to install one transverse jumper perpendicular to the long elements of the frame, then the situation with the gate is more complicated. In this case, it is more reasonable to use a diagonal jumper.

Methods for installing a jumper on a gate made of corrugated board are shown in the photo.

Door stiffeners - location options:

but) Despite the apparent simplicity, this option is quite thoughtful, since it guarantees the integrity of the gate leaves. On the one hand, it will be held by hinges, the possibility of deformation is excluded from above due to the strengthening of the corners. From below, it will be held by horizontal clamps (latches);

b) This is the most economical of the options presented, but it only creates reinforcement in the middle of the frame. The only advantage is that it makes it possible to install a lock on a jumper.

in) the disadvantage of this option is the weak reinforcement of the upper internal corners. Strong wind can deform the sash;

G) in this case, there is no reinforcement of the left inner corner;

e) in this case, there is no reinforcement of both internal corners;

e) perfect option. Places of insertion of the lock, installation of hinges, lower clamps and upper corners are reinforced. This method eliminates the torsion of the frame.

Advice. The wider the sash, the stronger the frame is reinforced.

Stage 3 - tool and material for corrugated gates

The drawing of the gate from the profiled sheet is a visual aid for calculating the material. For manufacturing you will need:

corrugated board - for sheathing. It is preferable to take a wall, because. it has a large working width.

self-tapping screws or rivets for fastening the profiled sheet;

metal pipe with a cross section of 60x60 mm and above - for support pillars;

pipe with a section of 40x40 or 60x20 ... 60 mm. - for the elements of the sash frame (frame);

pipe 20x20 to strengthen the frame (if necessary). 20x20 is suitable for a frame made of 60x20 pipe. 30x30 - if a 60x30 pipe was used.

Masters advise buying all pipes with a thickness of 3 mm, not 2. Their price is somewhat more expensive, but it will be much easier for beginners to weld them. The metal heats up more slowly and does not deform as quickly.

metal sheet for forming scarves (if necessary);

hinges, locks (latches, latches, plugs), lower clamps;

metal primer and paint;

decorative elements (forging).

From the tool you will need: a welding machine, grinder, screwdriver (drill and riveter), tape measure, level, plumb line, metal shears, brushes and consumables for the tool.

Stage 4 - installation of support posts for gates from corrugated board

Installation of gates from corrugated board begins with the installation of support pillars. The most common way to install gate posts is to dig in followed by concreting.

How to properly install gate posts

dig a hole with a garden drill. Using a shovel increases the consumption of concrete. The larger the diameter of the support, the larger the diameter of the recess should be. For a pipe with a section of 60x60, the diameter of the drill should be 120 mm.

How deep should gate posts be buried? Installation depth is 1/3 of the length of the support

pour a mixture of crushed stone and sand into the recess. The thickness of the pillow is 150-300 mm. The pillow is designed to prevent the influence of frost heaving of the soil and ensure the outflow of water from the base of the support, thereby slowing down its destruction;

prepare the support (coat with a primer against corrosion);

install the support strictly vertically. The slightest deviation will lead to a distortion of the entire structure. The correctness of the installation is checked with a plumb or level;

concrete the support. While the concrete will set, you can begin to manufacture the frame;

close the upper part of the support with a metal overlay or a special decorative element. In extreme cases, pour concrete into the post (concrete from the inside) to avoid water getting inside and thereby prevent the destruction of the post.

Which corrugated gate posts can be used?

In addition to supports made of metal pipes, you can install a concrete pillar or use piles. Supports decorated (lined) with brick or stone (brick pillars) look beautiful. When calculating the width of the door opening, the material of manufacture and the width of the support should be taken into account.

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Stage 5 - production of a frame for gates from corrugated board

Before starting production, you need to measure the width of the opening of the gate and gate again in order to make timely changes to the size of the leaves.

Manufacturing technology:

metal is broken into blanks. It is advisable to cut the cut at an angle of 45 ° for a more reliable fastening. Although butt welding of parts is also found, it is easier to cut workpieces and weld them;

Advice. Masters advise welding the upper corners at an angle of 45 degrees, this will prevent water from flowing into them, and the lower ones can be butted.

each workpiece is cleaned of dirt and rust;

frame elements are welded together. And first, the workpieces are baited, and after checking the geometry, they are welded with a continuous seam;

the frame is reinforced (if necessary);

welded seams are carefully cleaned;

degrease the frame, coat with a primer and paint the welding points. After the paint dries - paint the frame completely.

Advice. The manufacture of gates from corrugated board requires great accuracy in observing dimensions. When making a sash frame, it is better to make the frame a little smaller than larger. In the first case, in order to eliminate the gap between the wings of the swing gate, it will be enough to weld the flashing on one frame leaf, where it adjoins the second. In the second, you will need to cut the frame, and reduce its width.

Stage 6 - installation of hinges for swing gates from corrugated board

Garage hinges (canopies) are used to install the gate.

How to weld the hinges on the corrugated gate correctly?

First, the hinge is welded onto the support post, then onto the gate frame at a distance of 200-300 mm from the edge of the leaf frame. Please note that the location of the hinge affects the position of the door in the open state. If it is necessary that the gate opens in both directions, the hinge is butt welded to the support. If only in one, the loop is placed on the frame. To prevent the sash from reaching the fence, a limiter is installed.

How many hinges to weld on the gate?

If the gate is reinforced, three hinges are required for each leaf. If the lungs - enough two.

Stage 7 - installation of corrugated board on the gate

The profiled sheet is mounted on one or two sides of the frame. The installation rules are not complicated, but their knowledge and observance will help to install the corrugated board on the gate correctly.

In general terms: it is necessary to ensure reliable fastening of the sheet to the frame by fixing the profiled sheet through one lower wave of the sheet. In this case, the profiled sheet is also screwed to the diagonal or perpendicular jumpers. And two sheets are interconnected at the top of the wave (on the crest).

Rivets or self-tapping screws are used for fastening. Rivets look more elegant (especially matched to the color of the profiled sheet), self-tapping screws exclude the possibility of water flowing into the installation site. Of course, this is not as critical as on the roof, but the appearance of rusty smudges over time cannot be avoided.

Stage 8 - installation of fittings (accessories for gates)

Additional items:

lock for swing gates made of corrugated board. It is installed after the sashes are hung.

Types of locks and how to embed / put (installation rules):

mounted. It is necessary to provide loops for the lock when welding the frame and fastening sheets of corrugated board;

overhead. It is installed on a transverse jumper, most often on an additionally welded flat sheet of metal. Or it is screwed with hardware directly to the frame. Masters do not recommend using welding for mounting the design of the locking mechanism, because. the castle needs maintenance and replacement;

mortise. The lock cuts into the plane of the pipe to hide / decorate the installation site using a metal pocket.

the bottom latch of the swing gate leaf is needed to redistribute the load from the lock and additionally fix the lower part of the open/closed gate leaf from the wind (wind load).

latch on the gate (bolt), designed to close the gate from the inside (blocking). The latch is more suitable for a gate, and a lock (bolt) is used for swing gates.

swing gate automation. Allows you to open the gate remotely, which is very convenient when it is cold, raining or dark.

security system: outdoor surveillance camera, signal lamp, alarm system.

Swing gates made of corrugated board with a built-in gate

Separately, we will talk about how to make swing gates with a gate from corrugated board. This option is used when the opening is not wide enough to install a gate and a separate gate.

Options for the location of the gate in the gate

Locations:

In the manufacture of sash frames, they are made in different sizes. Then a narrower sash serves as a gate.

This is the most budget option, since the load on only one gate post increases, which will require the installation of an additional hinge and reinforcement of the frame. Overall, costs will go down.

In the middle of the gate leaf. The option with the location in the middle is good because the wicket frame acts as an amplifier for the sash frame. And installing the hinges not in the center, but closer to the top and bottom of the gate will further strengthen the structure.

Closer to the pillar. In this case, the main load falls on the support post, because both the gate frame and the wicket frame rest on it.

Closer to the inner edge of the sash. This design is the most “flimsy”, its weak link is the junction of two wings and a gate. In the last three cases, in the process of manufacturing the frame, an additional frame for the gate is provided. Moreover, it is made more reinforced than for a free-standing gate, since it accounts for the wind load, which acts on the gate leaves made of corrugated board. Please note that the gate will greatly overload the frame, which means that additional hinges and reinforcement of the sash frame will be needed.

In general, the technology of manufacturing gates from corrugated board with a wicket inside is carried out similarly to the manufacture of gates with a separate wicket. All the nuances are considered in the process of creating a drawing.

Advice. The lower latch for such models of swing gates from a profiled sheet is required.

Advantages and disadvantages of swing gates made of corrugated board

Advantages (pros):

comparative simplicity of design and manufacture;
low cost compared to sliding gates;
ease of operation and maintenance;
availability for installation of automation;

Disadvantages (cons):

requirements for free space for maneuver (opening will require the release of an area equal to the width of the gate leaf);

the need to take into account the wind load;

the need to provide for the fastening of open gates in order to avoid their unauthorized closing (retainer, stop, locking devices);

installation of a limiter so that the open gate does not damage the fence canvas and does not block access to the gate;

the difficulty of leaving in the winter season, which consists in the need to remove snow over a large area.

Approximate prices for swing gates made of corrugated board

Conclusion

As you can see, with some effort, it is possible to manufacture and install do-it-yourself swing gates from corrugated board in 1-2 weeks, which will decorate the entrance group and will reliably serve as a beautiful business card of a private house.

Gates and gates made of corrugated board belong to the budget category: their manufacture does not take much time and materials. True, if you choose a model of ordinary swing gates without artistic additions. There are also options with forging elements, here the complexity of the work is greater, the costs are much higher. Even an amateur welder can make simple swing gates from corrugated board with their own hands: there are few seams, they are simple.

Sash designs

Even in such a simple design as a gate leaf or a gate, it can be done in different ways, and there are many options. First of all, the location of the jumpers differs:

obliquely;
horizontally;
crosswise.

Each method is tested and works, providing a sufficient degree of rigidity. Here you choose what seems to you more correct or reliable.

There is a difference in the design of the gates themselves - with or without a stationary frame (top bar). With a frame, the gate is more stable, but then there are height restrictions: tall cars - trucks or special equipment - will not be able to drive into the yard. With proper reinforcement of racks (pillars) and normally made wings (with reinforcement in the corners), gates without a frame will also be reliable.

When installing a gate with a frame, the metal consumption is greater - by the length of the jumper, but at the same time, you can not additionally strengthen the pillars: the load on them is less.

To make it more convenient to fasten the profiled sheet, a thin-walled metal profile 1 cm wide is welded along the outer (sometimes inner, as in the figure above) perimeter of the wings. This must be taken into account when determining the dimensions of the blanks for the doors.

To make the structure as rigid as possible, so that it does not “walk” and does not make noise in the wind, reinforcement is made in the corners. And again there are two ways. The first is to weld the corners cut from sheet metal.

The second is to put short corner braces from the same pipe that welded the frame of the wings.

There is a difference during assembly: from the joints, the pipes are connected at an angle of 45 ° or just end-to-end. More professional - at 45 °, easier - end-to-end. Some assembly methods do not provide for the possibility of connecting at an angle at all (if both doors are assembled as one-piece, and only when they are hung on poles, they are sawn into two parts).

Another subtlety, which depends on the amount of snow in winter. As you can see in the photo, the lower bar of the wings is raised to different heights from the ground - somewhere a few centimeters, somewhere 20 cm and higher. It depends on the height of the snow cover in winter: if it snows, and the gate is from the ground itself, you will not open it. To prevent any living creatures from climbing into this gap in the summer, after the snow melts, the bar is screwed onto the screws, and in late autumn it is removed again.

The material for the gate is taken the same as for, fasten it to the same self-tapping screws. Before starting work, the metal must be prepared: remove all rust (with a grinder with a metal brush), prime with Anti-Rust and paint. After drying, you can start working.

Photo report on the manufacture and installation of the gate

This is one of the options for how you can make a gate from corrugated board with your own hands. The technology is not the best, but not the worst: everything has been functioning without problems for the past six years.

Hinges are welded to the installed poles 80-80 mm, the counterparts are welded at the required distance on the vertical parts of the racks from the pipe 40 * 40 mm - on the right and left. We hang the racks on the hinges on the pole, put a layer of the required thickness between them and the poles and fix it with a clamp.

We measure the required height and cut off the excess, from above to the racks, not to the poles, we weld the cross member from the same pipe 40 * 40 mm. The quality of welding at this stage is unimportant. We are still grabbing the details, not caring about the thoroughness of the seam - then we will bring it to the norm. The main thing is that everything is smooth and kept together. Therefore, we grab points in several places.

In the same way, we grab the pipe along the bottom.

We find the middle of the cross beams. Set aside 3 mm from the middle in both directions. We make clear marks. We measure the distance between the upper and lower beams, cut off two segments, weld them according to the marks (there should be a gap of 6 mm between the two vertical pipes).

We measure the distance between the two posts of one half of the gate. They should be the same, but it is better to measure separately. Cut the pipes to the desired length and tack them at the desired height. If you need more crossbars, install them too.

On the marked center with a grinder at the top and bottom, we make through cuts, dividing the gate into two halves. So very simply we got a gate that will open and close without any problems.

The frame of the gate leaves is ready. We remove it, lay it on a flat horizontal surface and weld the seams well. Here, the quality of welding is already important, we monitor the fullness of the bath, we try not to burn holes. We clean the finished seams, primer, paint.

We proceed to the assembly of the support for fastening the profile sheet. To reduce the windage, it was cut into two parts, so that the sheet is not solid, but cut. For this we use a profiled pipe 20 * 20 mm. We cut it into segments of the desired length, so that it can be fixed along the inner perimeter.

We expose them in the same plane with the outer part - the sheet will be screwed from the inside. We fix it on self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes of the required diameter.

We paint the finished frame - inside with light gray paint, outside - red-brown, to match the color of the corrugated board. We leave to dry.

We proceed to the installation of the profiled sheet on the gate. It is cut a little smaller than the main frame - there should be an indent around the perimeter by 2-3 mm. They are laid on prepared supports and fastened from the inside along the perimeter to self-tapping screws.

Installation of profiled sheet on the gate

You can take special ones, with hats and gaskets, but they put them on ordinary ones.

To save money, we used ordinary self-tapping screws for metal

We can say that the gate is ready.

It remains to install constipation. You can, of course, embed a lock and a handle, but the quality of inexpensive ones is very low, and taking expensive ones is currently an unaffordable luxury. Therefore, bolts were welded from the remains of pipes and fittings. They definitely work under any conditions.

One (upper) is mounted on self-tapping screws with a counterpart on the sashes, the two lower ones are attached to the uprights. Small holes were drilled in the ground in the right places, in which segments of round pipes were concreted, the diameter of which was larger than the diameter of the rod. The gate is made according to the same method, only a lock is embedded in it.

Do-it-yourself ready-made gates from corrugated board

With this manufacturing technology, the gate leaves are guaranteed to open and close. If there were some distortions when installing the pillars, they are taken into account. With a step-by-step presentation, the whole process does not look complicated, and indeed it is. If you weld all parts separately, the geometry must be perfect, and you also have to make sure that the pipe does not lead during welding. See several different technologies for making gates from corrugated board in the next section, which contains video tutorials.

How to make a gate from corrugated board: video tutorials

If the work is new, then even after the photo report, questions may remain. Some of them can clarify video tutorials on the topic. To begin with, repeating the technology described above: we assemble the frame directly on the installed pillars.

The same technology, in the photo sequence.

The second video is about how to properly weld the frame when connecting pipes at an angle of 45 °. The approach is professional.

Those who have not experienced welding gates or doors before may have questions about how to weld hinges. It's not as simple as it seems. Watch the next video tutorial.

For a more accurate explanation of what movements to make during welding of the gate loops, where to direct the electrode and other nuances, see the following video.

When building a garage, many nuances are taken into account. One of them is the height of the gate, and we are talking not only about the height of the opening, but also about the height of the leaves above ground level. The article will discuss the reasons why it is important to correctly calculate this height. In some cases, you have to raise the garage door higher due to certain circumstances. The article will also describe several ways in which this can be done.

Why raise the gate

When it comes to the need to raise the gate, the case concerns swing structures. There is no such problem for folding structures, since they are able to automatically change their level. There are several reasons why you have to resort to raising the gate:

hinge wear;
frame deformation;
incorrect design;
violation of the integrity of the foundation;
vehicle replacement.

Old gate designs are made of sheet metal, which has a thickness of 3 or more millimeters. By itself, such a gate design is quite heavy, so it is normal that over time they begin to sag. The reason for this may be poor-quality metal loops. The rods lose their strength and the sashes partially lean forward. This complicates or makes it impossible for the gate to close normally.

Another reason why the gate needs to be raised is the wear of the metal corner. In most cases, beams with a width of 20 cm are used, but small corners are used to save money, which begin to deform from constant loads. In this case, the geometry of the frame is violated, which leads to problems with the gate. With proper design, swing gates are never level with the ground. Even with proper installation, this approach can be a problem in winter. The metal can be deformed under the influence of low temperature and the doors will not open, because they will cling to the asphalt.

Another problem that manifests itself when the gate is low is precipitation. If a significant amount of snow falls in winter, then you have to work hard to clear the space near the gate before entering or leaving the garage. With heavy rains, water will simply seep into the garage, which can create serious problems, especially if the garage has a viewing hole or basement. In some cases, due to ground movements, there may be a problem with the deformation of the lower part of the frame. This also leads to the need to raise the gate. Walls can also be deformed, which lead to the drawdown of the gate and the impossibility of opening it.

Gate lifting methods

In most cases, lifting the gate is best not done alone. Due to the large weight, serious injuries to the hands and musculoskeletal system can be obtained. There are several ways to carry out the rise, the following will be discussed below:

repair washers;
jumper reduction;
lowering the threshold level;
gate trim.

Each of these methods requires its own arsenal of tools.

Repair washers

This option for increasing the height of the valves above ground level can be considered one of the simplest. Repair washers will help in the case when the doors do not open well due to wear on the hinges. With proper dexterity, the installation of washers can be done independently. In this way, it is usually possible to raise the sashes by 1 cm. To implement the idea, washers of the required thickness are selected or a selection of several elements is made. The hole in the washer should be such that the hinge stem can freely enter it. Washer lubrication should be done on one side only. The second must be fixed fixed on the loop.

To carry out the operation, it is necessary to lift the sashes, but do not remove them completely. It is enough to achieve the formation of a gap into which the puck can crawl. It is necessary to choose a jack that can be freely rolled under the sash. If there is no such option, then you can build a metal loop, part of which will be under the sash, and the second is clearly fixed on the jack. In another way, a rolling jack can be installed under the sash by lifting it up. To do this, it opens perpendicular to the wall and several wooden wedges are driven under it. While performing these actions, it is necessary to hold the gate so that it does not warp to one side.

Using a jack, you can repair the deformed parts of the gate, which caused sagging. In this case, the jack is installed as far as possible from the hinges, and the sash rises. As you rise, it is necessary to perform blows with a sledgehammer, which will help to level the deformed place. It is better to align in several small passes, then the result will be most effective. It should be understood that with a strong deformation, the ideal result may not be achieved. If the frame was leveled, then the bending point must be additionally reinforced with a corner that is welded on top.

Note! If the gate is leveled, in which there is a gate, then it is not worth removing it. If this is done, then after the procedure it may not fall into place. Instead, the door must be firmly fixed with zip ties or welding tacks.

Jumper reduction

This option for lifting the sashes can be called one of the most difficult and costly in terms of time and effort. But the result obtained can be considered the most effective. This option is also called frame lifting. To implement it, you will need to completely remove the garage door leaves. In some cases, the frame may not be dismantled, but it is necessary to release it from the latches that hold it in the wall. It can be metal pieces of reinforcement that are driven into holes. It will be easier to lift if brickwork is used as a jumper at the top of the frame. In this case, it will be enough to remove one or more rows. Everything will depend on the required height of the garage door frame.

If there is a concrete jumper above the frame crossbar, then more effort will have to be applied. When using a standard element, it will be possible to raise the gate by about 10 cm. This is due to the fact that concrete is located just at this level, and then reinforcement comes. You will need a puncher with a long drill. The diameter of the drill is selected in 10 or 12 mm. The grinder marks the line along which drilling will be carried out. It should be horizontal and located directly under the reinforcement. Holes are drilled in a row without a large gap. The next step is to install a chisel and start beating off the top of the jumper. Once the task is completed, it is necessary to remove the remains of concrete and level the surface of the lintel.

The next step is to raise the frame to the desired height. If the metal clips have already been cut off, it is necessary to go through with a puncher with a chisel in those places where the frame is concreted in the wall. It must be completely free and move freely. There are two ways to raise the frame:

wedges from below;
jack on top.

In the first case, it is necessary to act starting from the middle. In this place, a strong crowbar is placed and a slow rise begins. You should not start from the edges, because the gate frame will simply jam in the opening. After a slight lift, it is necessary to substitute wooden spacers under the frame. Then you can go alternately to the left and right edges. As soon as one of them is raised, a wedge is also placed under it. It should be understood that the extreme points may be more difficult to give in than the central one. When it is possible to achieve a large gap, one or more rolling jacks are installed in it.

Further lifting is carried out using jacks. In this case, it is important to act in sync with the assistant or to lift to a small level on each jack in turn. Do not try to do everything quickly, because the frame can warp. If this happens, then you need to lower one of the jacks and knock on the garage door frame with a sledgehammer. The operation can be performed in another way. If it is impossible to place the spacers and the jack under the frame threshold, it is necessary to do this under its upper crossbar. The jacks in this version are mounted as shown in the diagram above. Under them, high supports are made of beams. A board gasket is placed on top of the head so that there is no jump off. The garage door frame must also be raised evenly.

Note! In some cases, the threshold may be connected to the foundation, so it will not work to raise it. Then the frame posts are cut off and the upper part rises separately. After that, small sections of the gate frame will need to be welded from the corner.

After such an operation, the gate hinges do not need to be digested in most cases, since they are mounted in their usual place. The question arises in relation to the lower part of the gate, since a gap is formed there, equal to the height of the frame. It can be closed by welding sheet metal onto the gate. It is also suitable for forming a threshold that will prevent rainwater from entering the room. The latter option is necessary if the gate was initially too low.

Threshold level

This do-it-yourself option for increasing the height of the gate does not involve dismantling the gate and is one of the simplest options. It is worth noting that it can be implemented only if the threshold height is sufficient and there is a small margin. You should not resort to this method in the case when the lower part of the frame is almost at road level. To implement the plan, you will need to install horizontal struts that will temporarily fix the frame. The gate leaves are opened and the lower part of the frame is dismantled.

You should not throw it away, because this element will be used in its place. For the next step, you need a jackhammer or a powerful puncher. You will need to knock down part of the concrete threshold. After reaching the required level, the lower part of the door frame is welded into place and the horizontal braces are removed. You can start pouring the threshold with cement mortar.

Gate clipping

This method is the simplest and most undesirable. It can be implemented only if the total height of the gate is quite large and it is not planned to purchase a large car. The method of trimming the gate is used only when it is necessary to understand the level of the threshold so that water does not get inside. To work, you need a grinder. The first step is to separate the sheet metal from the sash frame at the bottom. The bottom bar is completely cut out, but you will need it later. After that, it is necessary to determine to what height the gate will be trimmed.

With a chokline or a thread with paint, a line is beaten off along which a cut is to be made. The grinder cuts off the lower part of the sheet material of the gate along the marked line. This, in principle, can be done on weight, but the best option would be to completely dismantle the wings and make a cut in a horizontal position. In this case, there is less chance of biting the web and injury. After trimming each sash, it is necessary to weld the lower spacer into place. Next, the gate is mounted in its place and the threshold is poured. Below is a video of three options for lifting the gate.

Summary

As you can see, in some cases, lifting the gate is necessary due to certain circumstances. It can be done in several ways. Some of them can be combined for optimal results. Another way to lift the gate is to replace the sash version with a roller one. In this case, the gate will rise, not move apart. In this case, it is possible to expand the opening to the required dimensions before installing the gate.