Cast iron bath restoration. Bathtub enamel restoration at home

For you, dear residents and guests of the city. We are pleased to offer a bathtub restoration service in Moscow. Any shapes and sizes, cast iron and iron.
On this page, you can see what your refurbished bathroom will look like. Also here are the current prices for Moscow and its suburbs: Zelenograd, New Moscow, Troitsky, Khimki, Solnechnogorsk,

Your benefits

Why you should entrust the restoration of bath enamel to us.

Financial discipline - The price is strictly fixed.
The price includes travel and work.
Double cleaning of the surface.
Free leveling and strengthening of the bottom.
Puttying of chips and cracks is free of charge.
Tinting is carried out at the request of the customer and is also free.
Experienced workers from 5 years, strictly Slavs.
Prompt execution of work in 2.5-3 hours.

Our works:

Bathtub embellishment.

Bathtub restoration.

Restoration of bath enamel.

Bath renovation.

Bathtub restoration.

Restoration of bathtubs Moscow: price

The cost of enameling and restoration of bathtubs in Moscow

Type of restoration (work + material)	Price ₽:
Bulk bath	from
1.2 Size. Restoration with liquid acrylic	3200
1.5 Size. Restoration with liquid acrylic	3500
1.7 Size. Restoration with liquid acrylic	3600
Liquid Acrylic Shower Tray Restoration	2900
Stripping the old layer	600
Restoration of the sink with liquid acrylic when ordering a bathtub + sink	500
3 year warranty on all workmanship.
Enameling with a brush.	Price ₽:
1.2 Size. Bathtub enameling	3100
1.5 Size. Bathtub enameling	3200
1.7 Size. Bathtub enameling	3300
Enamelled shower tray	2500
Cleaning a previously painted bath	600
1 year warranty on all workmanship
Full price list for our services

This price table is relevant for Moscow,

Restoration of bathtubs in Moscow

Our portfolio

We understand what we are doing, a specific service. Unlike a physical product, which can be examined in detail before purchase. Feel in the store. Restoration with acrylic, as well as with enamel in Moscow, is done at home. And you can’t put it on display ... Therefore, this section has been created where you can see how the final result will look like. Everything is done by our employees. There are examples made in Moscow. Images are enlarged by clicking on them with the mouse.

Restoration of bath enamel.

Bulk enamel, the strongest material to date.

Restoration of the surface of the cast-iron bath. Since the construction of the house, it has been installed with a slope back, and now the water does not drain completely, constantly forming a puddle at the bottom. She regularly had to be “raked” by hand. Otherwise, the drying water formed a rim of lime scale, which was very difficult to clean. The restoration of the bathtub enamel was carried out on site, without its dismantling and adjacent tiles. Before restoring the surface of the bath, the dilapidated, “Soviet” drain siphon was replaced. We highly recommend this procedure whenever possible. Since the new drain siphon looks beautiful in the renovated enamel bath. And the price of replacing the drain is quite acceptable, and cheaper than ordering it separately from plumbers. As for the restoration of the bathtub enamel, in such cases, when frankly rusty water flows from the tap, we recommend restoring the bathtub with NEM epoxy-acrylic enamel. In our studies, this material showed the highest resistance to acid and impact, fracture.

Acrylic bathtub painting.

All types of baths are possible.

A cast-iron bathtub is a good and strong frame, the weak point is its enamel. It is she who, over time, becomes worthless. Washing with caustic detergents corroded the bottom and walls. You can buy a new one, spending a lot of money and time on it. Or you can just paint the bathtub with acrylic enamel, without removing it, the price will be much lower, and the time to work is only a couple of hours. The result is again a smooth surface, shine and gloss, which is easy to clean with a household sponge.
In the photo, just such an option:
Liquid acrylic was used to paint the bathtub. Made in Germany. The advantage of this acrylic is that subsequently the surface can be washed with acidic products. The drain has also been replaced. If it is removable and open access, we strongly recommend doing this. Although it is permissible to paint the bath without removing the siphon.

Bathtub embellishment.

When it's better than buying a new one.

Bathtub enameling, at the time of ordering it was 6 years old. As the client said, initially he had a solid, cast iron, with smooth sides. Over time, it became rough, he decided not to enamel the bath and replaced it with a modern iron one. So that the enameled iron bath would not rattle from the pouring water, he foamed the space between the bottom and the floor under it. I thought it would be for a long time. She stayed with him for 6 and a half years. He didn't want to start over again. It was decided to order the service “enamelling with liquid acrylic”. He didn't guess.

Restoration of bathtubs with liquid acrylic.

The best choice for areas with particularly polluted water.

Restoration of bathtubs in Moscow. Plumbing is covered with a red coating that is very difficult to clean. The customer hesitated for a long time about whether to do the staining, pouring, or even change it to a new one. It makes no sense to change it if rusty liquid flows from the tap, as the factory coating wears out quickly from aggressive detergents. You can restore the surface with any material, but in this case, the bathtub was restored with liquid acrylic, which simplifies its cleaning in the future and increases the life of the restored enamel.

Bath renovation.

Bathroom renovation with liquid acrylic.

The bathtub enamel was renewed using the "Pouring" method, that is, it was filled with white liquid acrylic. The ferruginous water left a rusty, yellow coating on the surface, and it had to be washed off with chemicals, which in turn corroded the surface layer. Refreshing the bathtub with Liquid Acrylic corrects surface roughness and covers up any plaque stains. You can click on the photo to enlarge.

Good to know…

The capital and Moscow region is the largest region of our country.

Lots of baths. Many of them are very old, there are many people who want to upgrade. Naturally, there are many firms on this basis. Offering a service for their restoration in our city. Some offer restoration with enamels, believing that acrylic is a waste of money, while some, on the contrary, update with liquid acrylic or install liners and also, at any opportunity, they say that painting with enamel is not serious and not for long.

Many people know the saying “every frog praises its own swamp”. And one can only be glad for those restorers who so zealously protect their business. But, as you know, people are not interested in the ideological beliefs of the masters, but in the most rational method of restoring a bathtub with liquid acrylic and enamels in your area. No matter how the restorers claim, there is no unequivocal panacea. Sometimes it’s more rational to do the classic service “Enameling bathtubs”, and sometimes it’s better to restore it with liquid acrylic.

And, to help you understand, it would be useful to read an article about the methods of bath restoration that exist today. About the pros and cons of these methods and how baths are updated. So it will be possible to answer for yourself the question of which is better, covering the bath with enamel or acrylic. Also, for clarity, understanding how the restored surface will look like, we post a few examples: see the photos in our portfolio.

When the cast-iron bath began to lose its whiteness, roughness and grayness began to appear in some places, or the surface became covered with cracks, chips formed, then the question is rightly brewing - how to repair the bath so as not to replace it with a new one.

There is such a way, and not just one. Let's consider this issue in more detail.

Do-it-yourself bath repair features

One of the ways to restore the bath to its original appearance is to try to repair the bath with your own hands. This procedure is quite painstaking and time-consuming. If you follow all the rules with, you can achieve an excellent result, and the updated bathroom will last at least a couple more years.

Such a short service life of the coating is explained by the fact that in production the enamel is hardened or applied to a hot bath. At home, enameling is more like painting. But anyway, it is this method that helps the owners out if, for example, you just need to delay the time to purchase a new product.

Initially, the bath must be prepared by degreasing and cleaning its surface. This is done simply, and the more time-consuming process will be further grinding of the surface with a grinding wheel or sandpaper. Next, it is necessary to apply enamel in two layers, while taking breaks between applying layers of 15 minutes.

Bath restoration - repair of chips can be performed using nitro enamel, super cement glue or BF-25 glue with dry whitewash. But it is better that this type of work is performed by a master.

There are currently three more methods available:

Repair of old bathtubs with a special polymer composition using a brush. Made by hand by a master. Most often, the warranty for this type of repair is one year, but the coating can last up to 3 years.
(bath in the bathroom).
Bulk bath - stakryl.

Let's analyze the second and third methods in more detail.

Acrylic bath liner

This method is the most expensive way to restore the bathroom, but at the same time the most durable. After this type of restoration, the bath can be used for another 15 years, of course, if proper care is provided.

This method can also be used to repair bath chips.

When restoring a bathtub using an acrylic liner, the specialist performs the following work:

Eliminate binding.
Bath preparation.
Edge cutting.
Marking holes and fitting the liner.
Application of 2-component foam around the perimeter of the product and sealant in the drain area.
Direct installation of the liner.
Mounting the piping and filling the bath with water.

During the day, the bath must be left filled, then the water is drained and the product can be used.

Bulk bath - stakryl

This method of bath restoration is not as expensive as repairing a steel bath with an acrylic liner. It takes no more than six hours of continuous work, but the result is worth it.

Stages of preparing a bath for applying bulk, liquid acrylic or glass:

The tub trim needs to be removed.
It is necessary to thoroughly prepare the surface of the bath. The preparatory work is very similar to the work of enameling a bathtub. Initially, a means is applied to the bath to eliminate plaque and rust. It is important to read the instructions for the selected tool to work with it.
Next, the surface of the bath must be cleaned with sandpaper to a matte state.

Preparing the bath for restoration

Re-clean the bath with pemolux. Between cleanings, it is necessary to thoroughly rinse the bath with a large volume of water.
Dry the bath. For additional degreasing, it can be treated with Thinner 646.

For reference. Bath refurbishment specialists prepare the surface of the bath a little differently. Before stripping, they carefully examine the surface and only then (depending on the condition of the product) begin to clean the bath, using various means.

There is no need to describe all the nuances, since there are a lot of them. For this reason, the simplest surface preparation method is described.

Preparation and direct application of the composition for the bulk bath

Bathtub before and after restoration

The composition of the enamel for the bulk bath includes two components - a hardener and a base. To dilute the material, you need to add a hardener to the container with the base and mix thoroughly. You need to mix for about 5-10 minutes. Next, you need to let the finished mixture brew for another 10 minutes and mix thoroughly again.

Repairing an old bathtub is pretty easy. First you need to pour a strip of the mixture along the side and introduce the mixture under the tile or other finishing material with a spatula, depending on how the walls of the bathroom are finished. Then the remaining solution must be applied in a spiral over the entire surface of the bath.

Refurbished bathroom care

Bathroom care must be carried out in accordance with the following rules:

Different hard washcloths can harm the coating. It is also impossible to use acid-containing products, for example, Sanoks.
Do not clean the bath with cleaning products that are designed for cleaning tiles and toilets, as they contain various abrasive substances and acids. As a result of exposure to these drugs, the enamel is quickly destroyed, the bath rusts and turns yellow.
It is forbidden to allow prolonged accumulation of water in the bathroom, it must drain freely. It is necessary to keep the bathtub dry when not in use.
Faucets and showers must be functional, otherwise water leaks will lead to rust and a yellow indelible coating.
It is also not recommended to soak colored laundry in the bath.
The coating can be destroyed if metal basins are placed in the bath. If you can’t do without it, then you need to put a wooden pallet or soft rags under the basin.

The bathroom will last longer if there is not a very sharp temperature contrast, in other words, it is not recommended to start cold and then hot water.

As a result of this impact, cracks and chips appear on the bath.

Bathroom restoration is always much cheaper than buying a new one. Therefore, carefully following our advice, feel free to take on the restoration of the coating of the old bath.

Cast iron bathtubs are not in vain very popular with buyers. Even though the market is filled with acrylic and steel taxes, cast-iron models not only do not go out of fashion, but also strengthen their positions. The reason for this demand is quite simple - a cast iron bath is durable, and at the same time it perfectly retains heat. However, over time, the coating of the cast-iron bath wears out, chips, spots and cracks appear on it. In such a situation, there can be only two options for solving the problem - restoring enamel on a cast-iron bath or buying a new one.

If we talk about buying, then it is worth considering a number of points that significantly affect the price of the issue, namely:

in addition to the cost of a new bathtub, the dismantling of the old model and its disposal should be taken into account;
the cost of delivery, transportation and loading of the purchased bath significantly increase its final cost;
restoration of cast-iron bathtubs allows you to avoid such moments as installation and connection, because when restoring enamel, you do not have to overpay for installation and dismantling.

Restoration of cast iron bathtubs

If you are not used to wasting money and time in vain, you will certainly be interested in such a service as the restoration of cast-iron bathtubs. Modern technologies and innovative materials make it possible to return the bathtub to a radiant look and presentability in the shortest possible time at no extra cost.

Our advantages

Quality materials from Germany directly from the manufacturer

The material is non-toxic, odorless! Hardening - 20 hours

We work without prepayment, under the contract. Responsible approach

Experienced craftsmen. We have been restoring bathtubs for over 10 years.

Warranty up to 5 years! Service life of material 15 years

Prompt order fulfillment. Technical support

Price for restoration of a cast-iron bath

Bathtub 120 cm.

German quality.
Drying 20 hours.
Service life of 15 years!

3 800 rub.

3 500 rub.

Bathtub 150 cm.

German quality.
Drying 20 hours.
Service life of 15 years!

4 000 rub.

3 700 rub.

Bathtub 170 cm.

German quality.
Drying 20 hours.
Service life of 15 years!

4 200 rub.

3 900 rub.

Restoration of enamel on a cast-iron bath

Restoration of cast iron bathtubs in Moscow is one of the services offered by our company. Even if your bath has completely lost its original appearance, do not rush to look for a replacement. The unique enamel restoration technology on a cast-iron bathtub will transform it, eliminating the need for an expensive purchase.

By contacting us, you can be sure that:

all work on the restoration of the cast-iron bath will be performed at the highest level;
you will be provided with a guarantee for all types of services provided;
the quality of work will not cause any complaints;
the cost of restoration will not hit your pocket.

Call us and make sure that the restoration of the enamel on the bath is fast, easy and very profitable!

Additional services

Name of service	Price
Installing an acrylic skirting board on the side of the bath	1300 rub.
Installation of our screen under the bathtub on an aluminum frame (regardless of the length of the bathtub)	2200 rub.
Installation of a new siphon (re-departure of the master 24 hours after drying. New siphon, corrugations, cuffs, connection + warranty)	1250 rub.
Installing the 150 cm acrylic liner.	4000 rub.
Installing the 170 cm acrylic liner.	4200 rub.
Call a measurer for advice and correct measurement of the bath	500 rub.
Preservation of the old piping (siphon), with the replacement of only the drain grate with a new one	150 rub.
Dismantling the old cast iron piping	400-600 rub.
Removing the plastic trim	Is free
Cleaning non-factory enamel	from 400 to 800 rubles.
color scheme	400 rub.
Bathroom chip removal	150 rub.

It's nice when an inexpensive but neat repair is made at home, and especially when everything is done by one's own hands. Anyone who gets down to business first evaluates their capabilities, selects material, time and finances. But, it is one thing to change the tiles in the bathroom, and another to change the bathtub that has turned yellow from time to time.

However, you can not rush to change it, as you can restore the enamel coating. And how to make an inexpensive and high-quality restoration of a cast-iron bath at home can be found in this article.

Despite the large selection of bathtubs of various shapes, sizes and materials, they are still in demand on the market. After all, such a cast base is almost eternal and can last for several generations.

What does that require? Just a periodic restoration of the enamel coating of a cast-iron bath is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. To properly carry out restoration work, you need to learn a little more about the types of damage.

View # 1 - yellowness and plaque

Roughly speaking, these are the remains of metal oxides that are contained in water. Over the years, more and more oxides are deposited, they impregnate the top layer of paint. And there comes a moment when the yellowness is no longer washed off, the top layer becomes yellow.

Yellowness on the surface of the enamel occurs during prolonged contact with water. The most typical causes for this type of damage are a leaking faucet, drops of water from the shower head, improper drain installation.

View # 2 - mechanical damage

Scratches or other damage to the factory enamel layer. The enamel coating is thermosetting components baked at a high temperature in several layers, which, when dried, become very hard, but brittle.

Any sharp blow to the surface with a hard object often leads to cracks and even chipping of part of the coating.

Gloss damage occurs when using products containing corundum or glass abrasives. The use of such pastes damages the gloss over time, which leads to the retention of moisture on the surface and the ingress of various contaminants into micropores.

Cover restoration options

To restore the inner surface of bathtubs, three types of restoration are common:

applying an enamel coating with a brush or spray gun;
processing the bathroom bowl with a polymer compound - acrylic;

Dye– the service life of the enamel coating largely depends on the experience of the master and the thoroughness of the preparation of the base of the bath / bowl. As a rule, even with a careful attitude to the restored coating, its service life does not exceed 1-1.5 years.

liquid acrylic used to restore bathtubs of non-standard shape. The technology allows you to update the bowl with your own hands, without involving a team of craftsmen. True, you need to buy a quality polymer from a trusted manufacturer.

Installing the liner- the option is rather problematic, since they are cast in a certain shape and it can be very difficult to choose the right size for your bath. And quite often it is impossible - if you have a custom-shaped bowl installed.

The choice of method for its restoration will depend on the shape and size of the bath. For example, in a situation with products of non-standard shapes, it is better to stay on an acrylic coating.

We will not give advice on which type of restoration is better - you will figure it out on your own, assessing the condition of your bath and your own strengths.

Step-by-step instructions for enamel restoration

Enamel, designed to restore the surface of a cast-iron bath, is a material that contains a base and a hardener.

Simply put, enamel is not quite paint in the usual sense, but polymer composites that meet numerous requirements. Therefore, it must be treated as a complex chemical composition, which is manufactured and mixed using a special technology.

The main color is white, and various fillers and dyes are used to prepare color shades.

It’s worth mentioning right away that enameling does not pretend to be factory quality in any way, so it should be treated like a current repair. This is just a coating with a thin layer of a film that hardens in air without special ovens.

Bath enamel coating technology is divided into four stages:

putty, or, as it can also be called, the alignment of all irregularities, if any.
Foundation preparation for coating, which includes cleaning and removing the surface layer of existing enamel.
Enamel preparation and application to the surface.
Proper drying or drying.

All stages of work are very important, nothing can be missed here. Even a small inaccuracy can lead to a decrease in the life of the coating, but we will analyze everything in order. First of all, you need to remove chips or scratches.

Step #1 - Surface Preparation

In order to qualitatively prepare the inner surface, it is best to remove a completely damaged paint layer. For this, the best option is if the layer is protected before the primer.

Stripping can be done manually or using electric devices: angle grinders (angle grinders), drills, grinders.

Surface treatment is carried out manually in an abrasive way, for this two types of working material are used: sandpaper and metal mesh, which is used to level plaster during construction and repair.

The abrasive cloth has a paper or fabric basis. Fabric are available in moisture resistant and ordinary. The grain size is measured in microns, so the larger the number, the finer the grain. The abrasive cloth can be used for manual work in holders or with power tools

When using sandpaper, you need to choose the base to which it will be attached. For this, there are special graters with screw or spring clamps along the edges. Also, the base can be made independently from a bar of wood.

Sandpaper There are several types: on a paper and fabric basis. Fabric ones are more durable and can be washed, paper-based ones are not. More resistant to abrasion fabric, impregnated with a special composition. For work suitable grain size R120-R180.

Metal grid more practical, because it does not wear out and does not lose grain, and if it becomes clogged with dust, you can rinse and continue working. The mesh is attached to the holders.

A standard abrasive mesh or sandpaper holder should have a flat and hard surface. Clips for a cloth happen screw or spring.

When buying, you must definitely pay attention to the handle, which must be cast with a base. If the handle is attached to the glue, then there is a chance that it will break in the midst of work. Professional nets can be made from tungsten filaments, but they are much more expensive.

Mesh marking is the same as sandpaper. Brands are widespread: R-120, R-150, R-180, R-240. To remove the surface layer of paint from the bath, P120 - P180 is better suited.

Surface preparation is carried out until all defects are completely removed, or until the primer layer.

Step #2 - Composite preparation and application

If there are bumps, chips, deep scratches on the surface, then it is better to use special putties to level the surface.

For putty cracks, chips, deep scratches, putty is selected, which contains fiberglass in its structure. Such composites are best suited for repairing chips and irregularities.

In order to prepare a place for sealing a chip, you must:

thoroughly degrease the defect with whiteness, denatured alcohol or acetone;
rinse the area with running water and dry with a hair dryer;
clean thoroughly with sandpaper;
rinse again with clean water and dry with a hair dryer;
prepare a composite.

According to practicing craftsmen, putty containing fiberglass in its composition is better suited - such a composition is the most durable.

So, from suitable putties, we can recommend a polyester company Novovol or Body. These materials, after hardening, have high plasticity, which is important in conditions of constantly changing temperature during the operation of the bathroom.

Finishing putty can not be used to repair chips in bathtubs. Since it has a large linear thermal expansion.

First you need to determine the amount of material needed. You need a little putty, so it's best to purchase a small jar. High-quality putties are two-component, one of which is a hardener.

The ratio of the components to be mixed is determined according to the instructions for use, but if it is not, then general standard 1:10. After connecting the 2 components, it is necessary to mix them thoroughly and quickly until a homogeneous mass, the hardening start time is 2 minutes.

After the components are ready, you can start embedding. It is best to repair irregularities with a soft nylon spatula. This will clearly repeat the shape of the curves of the bath body. Yes, and then it’s not a pity to throw away such a spatula, saving precious time for work

After the composite is ready, all defects are sealed with a plastic spatula. After finishing the patching of irregularities, it is necessary to clean all the working tools, because after 10-15 minutes the putty will turn into a “stone”.

Step #3 - Paint the Cast Iron Bowl

The accessible part of the surface is painted manually using a velor roller, inaccessible places - with a brush.

For applying paint with a roller, the prepared paint is poured into a special ditch. After immersing the roller in the paint, it must be rolled one or two turns along the ribbed edge of the cuvette.

Then paint with intensive movements from the bottom of the bath to the edge of the top, while the movements should be directed from the bottom up. Inaccessible places for the roller are finished with a flute brush.

Step #4 - drying after painting

Drying after painting occurs only in natural conditions: drying of one layer of paint should last at least 3 days. Each repeated layer adds another day. Thus, drying with a three-layer coating will be at least 6 days.

It is not recommended to accelerate this process with artificial ventilation, because. uneven drying is possible, which will cause internal tension of the film, and as a result, its subsequent delamination.

You should not rush to dry the enamel or acrylic coating of the bath, because this can lead to a lot of trouble, ranging from a decrease in the service life of the coating to its peeling off.

Having decided on an independent one, it is important to adhere to a number of rules and perform all actions consistently. Only in this case can a positive result be guaranteed.

If the shower is not dismantled, it must be removed to exclude even the theoretical possibility of falling water drops during the drying of the paint.

Secondly, degrease the prepared surface. The best solution for degreasing is denatured alcohol, solvent 646, in extreme cases - acetone.

Solvents work well, but do not remove corundum particles or debris, so after cleaning, it is best to rinse and vacuum the surface.

Thirdly, you should properly prepare the paint. It must be mixed according to the attached instructions. It is worth remembering that the time for painting after mixing the components is 15-20 minutes.

The viscosity of the paint should not be too thick, otherwise it will be very difficult to apply it, but not liquid, so that streaks do not form.

Almost all paints are diluted with 646 solvent or acetone. The acrylic-based composition is incompatible with domestic solvents.

Fourth, you need to take the time to prepare the flutes of the brush. Which consists in combing loose hairs with a small comb so that they do not fall out during the coloring process.

Then you need to run it several times over large sandpaper to give the villi a pointed look.

Fifth To speed up the surface preparation process, you can use a power tool. If you don’t find what you need, you can borrow it from a good-natured neighbor or friend.

A home master, who is independently engaged in repairs, must have electrical appliances in his arsenal: a drill, screwdriver

A number of surface grinders is a belt of sandpaper that moves along a conveyor. The width of the tape can be very different. And the machines themselves - of various capacities and speeds of the tape

Also, to prepare the surface, you can use a screwdriver, holding the substrate under the grinding material in the chuck instead of the drill. Or use special nozzles on angle grinder typewriter.

Using electrical appliances for painting surfaces, you should pay attention to some of their features:

Not all power tools have dust protection in the vents, to prevent paint particles from getting inside the device, you can close the vents with several layers of gauze.
Electrical appliances with collector motors during operation create a spark between the electric brush and the collector plates. With their continuous use, paint accumulates inside, which threatens to ignite.

Using power tools in work, it is better to give preference to devices with rechargeable batteries - they are more mobile and safer.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

This is how the puttying of bathroom chips is carried out:

The most common mistakes when restoring coverage:

Detailed instructions for the restoration of the bath cover:

As you can see, it is not so difficult to make at home, the main thing is to clearly understand the sequence of operations and do everything without errors. But if you doubt your own abilities, entrust this work to professionals.

Have you ever refurbished a bathtub yourself? Please tell the visitors of our site which method you used and why you chose it. Leave your comments in the box below. There you can also ask questions about the topic of the article.

Replacing a bathtub is a very expensive and troublesome undertaking, associated with great difficulties, but quite tangible financial costs. That is why most of those who started a repair (especially not a major one, but a cosmetic one) are looking for alternative ways to give this plumbing product a neat look again. How to restore an old cast-iron bath - know, of course, the masters of this field. But it is quite possible to do most of the work yourself.

When is it time to refurbish a bath?

A cast-iron bath is a standard of quality, strength, and reliability in the plumbing world. No wonder it is advised to install products from this alloy in apartments. In many houses built back in the Soviet Union, just such bathtubs were installed. And such baths are used to this day. Also, a cast-iron product is comfortable to use: it does not create noise, unlike, for example, a thin-walled iron bath. Yes, and it is pleasant to wash in it - the bath retains the heat of the water poured into it much longer than others.

Unfortunately, even seemingly eternal things wear out over time. And a cast-iron bath is no exception. At the same time, it is not she herself that deteriorates, but the coating - enamel, with which the structure was covered at the factory. And this special paint, applied using a special technology, begins to lose its appearance, and its performance is deteriorating.

On a note! Cast iron bathtubs are enameled during production after strong heating. It is due to this that it is possible to obtain a high-quality coupling of the base with the coating.

Here are some signs that it's time to upgrade your bathtub.

Roughness of the inner surface. It is much more pleasant to step on smooth enamel than on a pumice stone resembling the touch.
Bathtub cleaning is getting harder. The reason is the very rough surface on which an ordinary sponge no longer slides easily and pleasantly. Cleaning a bathtub takes a lot of effort.
Dirt and rust quickly and strongly eat into the enamel due to the loss of smoothness.. In some cases, contamination cannot be removed at all.
The appearance of chips and cracks on the enamel surface.

Attention! Enamel chips are dangerous for the entire structure. The fact is that the enamel paint protects the cast iron from the effects of water and aggressive chemicals for cleaning plumbing. In places of chips, rust forms quite quickly and gradually begins to spread throughout the structure right under the enamel.

It is these signs that inform the owner of the bath that it is time for her to “rest”. But do not rush to dismantle it and throw it away - the bath can be reanimated! And for this, there are three fairly simple and, moreover, relatively inexpensive ways - this is the use of an acrylic liner, the “filling bath” technique and enamel renewal.

Three ways to update your bath

All these methods differ from each other in price, quality, speed of work and complexity of implementation. But it is worth considering them all to choose the one that suits you best. Each of the methods has its own advantages and disadvantages, which are important to know in order to make the right choice.

We paint the bath

Self-enamelling or, more simply, painting the inside of the bathtub with special coloring compositions in order to renew the coating is one of the oldest restoration methods that has already been tested by time.

Works are carried out with a brush and special restoration kits, which include directly and a hardener for it, also in the kit there can be colors of various colors that will allow you to change the color of the bath and make it as harmonious as possible in a certain color scheme of the interior. By the way, such coloring pigments can be bought independently, and then simply added to the coloring composition diluted according to all the rules.

The paint is applied to the surface of the bath, previously cleaned of dirt and rust. Before starting work, it is advisable to grind the walls with a grinder, wash, and then degrease with any means (for example, acetone).

Important! Before the enamel is applied, the bath is well warmed up. This can be done with a hair dryer or by typing hot water into it. However, after using the second method, the surface of the structure will have to be well dried. Otherwise, the paint will not lay down as it should.

It is most convenient to work with a brush, but there are also those compounds that are perfectly applied to the surface of cast iron with a small paint roller. There are restoration compositions for enameling bathtubs and in aerosol cans, but they are not recommended for use on large areas, since the paint coming out of them often lies unevenly on the surface, therefore streaks may remain. By the way, some formulations, especially professional ones, may have increased or decreased fluidity, which can complicate the work of a beginner. Therefore, it is worth buying non-professional sets.

Attention! All compounds used for enameling baths are very toxic, and therefore it is important to work with a respirator and rubberized gloves. You should also ensure good ventilation in the apartment and remove children and animals from the house.

It will take about a week to completely restore the bath in this way. The fact is that the enamel is applied in several layers, and each of them should be well dried before applying the next. TO , you can read in our article.

Advantages	Flaws
A cheap and affordable way to restore bathtubs.	Enamel is sensitive to impact and breaks easily. Over time (and rather quickly) chips can appear.
Bath enameling work can be done independently, and the means for this are sold at any hardware store. You do not need to have special skills for applying enamel.	Enamel does not cover large irregularities - they need to be pre-finished.
During the work, the dismantling of plumbing is not carried out.	After a while, the white paint will begin to turn yellow.
This is a fairly quick way to restore the bath.	You need to take care of such a bathroom very carefully - do not use aggressive chemical and abrasive products for cleaning. Also, do not pour boiling water into the bath with such a coating.

The average service life of enamel is about 5 years. Therefore, if this method was chosen, one should be prepared for the fact that after this period of time the enameling will have to be repeated.

Bath enamel prices

bath enamel

Acrylic liner

This method of bathtub restoration is actively used for cast iron products and is otherwise called “bath to bath”. A custom-made or purchased ready-made acrylic liner is inserted inside the old structure, which follows the contours of the plumbing structure. It is fixed inside with foam or special mastic, which is applied to the inner surface of the bath. In this case, it is necessary to dismantle the plumbing parts for draining.

Advice! For high-quality adhesion of the adhesive substance to the surface of the bath, it is best to clean and degrease it (surface).

The acrylic liner is one-piece, therefore, to begin with, it is inserted into the bath without glue, holes for the drain are marked, and then these holes are removed and cut. Then, having applied the adhesive composition to the inner surface of the bath itself, the liner is lowered there and glued.

Table. Advantages and disadvantages of the method.

Advantages	Flaws
Acrylic is a very durable substance, such a bath coating will be stronger than enamel.	The need to dismantle plumbing equipment.
The liner does an excellent job of hiding all the bumps and damage to the bath, making it smooth and beautiful.	Cannot be installed on structures made of thin metal. Such a metal can bend under the weight of water and a person, which is why the adhesive adhesion of the liner to the surface is easily broken.
Acrylic does not yellow over time.	Fairly high price.
Ease of installation.	The method has high requirements for the quality of materials - poor glue or a poor-quality liner can spoil the whole work.

The service life of the acrylic liner is approximately 15 years. However, this method of restoration is much more expensive than the previous one.

Video - Installation of an acrylic liner

acrylic coating

This method is also called "filling bath", because it is performed using a special technology using liquid acrylic. The substance is poured onto the prepared surface of the old bath. This is a fairly durable coating that resists daily exposure well, but still requires careful cleaning without the use of abrasives.

On a note! With liquid acrylic, due to its relative density and viscosity, it is quite possible to mask irregularities during the restoration of the bathtub.

"Pouring bath" is a fairly new method of restoration, but has already managed to fall in love with many, as it does not force plumbing owners to replace the cast-iron bath completely, but is easily done even with their own hands.

Hot tub - before and after

The advantages of the method lie in the durability of the coating, since acrylic is applied in a rather thick layer - about 5-6 mm. By the way, despite the density, it spreads well over the surface of the bath. It is also very pleasant to the touch and smooth.

How to restore the bath in this way? It's simple - follow our instructions.

Step 1. First you need to prepare a bath for work. Using a grinder, the old enamel coating is polished to a rough state.

Step 2 The bathtub is cleaned with a powder and a sponge, and then rinsed with clean water.

Step 3 The drain system is dismantled both at the top and at the bottom of the bath.

Step 4 The surface of the bath is degreased with any degreasing agent. Acetone will do, as well as any other solvent. After that, liquid acrylic is prepared according to the instructions indicated on the package. The mixture must be very thoroughly mixed.

Step 5 It's time to start filling the bath. For the convenience of work, a little acrylic can be poured into a small container. In order not to stain the floors, the container is placed in the bath.

Step 6 Acrylic is poured onto the surface of the bath in a thin stream, starting from the corners and edges of the bath in a circle.

Step 7 The substance is poured in several layers. It should flow down the sides of the tub, evenly covering the sides and top.

Step 8 Using a spatula, the acrylic layer, starting from the middle of the bath to its bottom, is leveled. All "gaps" are covered. Acrylic is lifted with a spatula from the bottom of the tub. Thus, all the side walls and the bottom are worked out.

Step 9 The bath is left to dry - this period is at least 36 hours. All this time it is better not to touch it at all, otherwise you can spoil all the work.

Step 10 Lastly, when the acrylic dries, a drain system is installed.

Now you can use the product to your heart's content. The service life of the "bulk bath" varies from 8 to 15 years.

Video - Technique "Pouring bath"

Compositions for the "bulk bath"

A "bulk bath" can be made using two types of products - glass and liquid acrylic. They are different from each other, and a common mistake for beginners is to mistake them for the same substance.

Stakryl began to be used about 10-15 years ago. It is relatively inexpensive and has a fairly high strength. After applying it to the bath, it should be dried for at least 4 days - and already here you can see a clear difference between the substance and ordinary liquid acrylic, which has a shorter drying time. Stakryl is also afraid of mechanical damage, so it is important to handle the bathtub covered with it carefully and carefully.

Liquid acrylic, on the other hand, has recently appeared on the building products market. It has higher strength and resistance to various mechanical influences. The coating made from it retains a glossy sheen for a long period of time. By the way, the smell from it is much less sharp than from glass. Acrylic dries in just 36 hours.

In general, both materials can be used for the restoration of bathtubs and other plumbing. But you should definitely know the difference between them.

Summing up what has been said, it can be noted with confidence that it is quite possible for everyone to restore the bath with their own hands, restore its former grandeur and neat appearance without the use of drastic measures to replace the bath itself. But the service life of such updated products (or rather, their coatings), of course, is not so great.

Acrylic bath liner - installation steps

Hot tub - before and after