How to make a do-it-yourself wall out of cardboard. Making a robot wally

It all started after watching the Cartoon "Wall-E", I was so impressed by the image of a small, completely lonely robot, who alone fights with a whole army of more advanced brothers, that I decided to make a computer case in the form of my favorite hero. The result is a very cool mod ... but let's start in order :)

The first day.

So, I'll start my story about how I made this mod. Believe it or not, it only took eighteen days! I want to note that no "hack-work" was allowed in the work, I made all the details from metal ..
I started making the body from the chassis of the robot. The wheels were made of sheet duralumin twenty millimeters thick. First, I made the markup on the sheet.

And drilled holes on it.

He separated the blanks from the plate using a jigsaw with a metal blade.

These are how they turned out, not very beautiful ...

To get similarity to the original, I took screenshots from the movie screen, scaled it to fit the size of the motherboard in "CorelDraw". By measuring the distances in the picture, I got all the sizes. But not everything that is drawn can be done without changes. Take the drive wheels, for example: my equipment does not allow me to mill tapered surfaces on a turntable. I had to sacrifice this and limit myself to general similarities ...

I did not make the teeth with absolute similarity either, in my opinion, this is a minor detail.

Here's the summary of a full day of work:

Second day. I continue to manufacture the chassis. I use the same technology to make support beams.
Someone may think that this is an outdated and inconvenient method ... I absolutely disagree with this: far from everyone has plasma or laser cutting.

On a milling machine, I give them the desired shape ...

To facilitate the design, the excess metal is sampled with a cutter. This was done on all the details. The main thing is not to violate their strength. Here are the results:

Then he grinded out the wheel mounting parts and the support rollers.

I'm trying to collect.

So far, it turns out very well. The track tensioners were also made of sheet duralumin, and then on a lathe made them look like the original.

At the end of the second day of work, I got the base of the tracks.

Day three. I started by grinding the upper support rollers ... I'll tell you a secret, these tracks are damn tedious work, I had to make a huge number of identical parts. However, there is no way without it. Here is such a test of character :) Although, the luminescent is sharpened easily and quickly, it is a pleasure to work with it.

And their axes ...

This is what the top support assembly looks like.

It remains only to attach it at an angle to the base.

Now I'm going to work on the tracks. They are made from a twenty-five millimeter wide aluminum strip. First, the workpieces of the required length are cut with a hacksaw, and then they are processed on a milling machine in a package.

As a result, I have a whole bunch of tracks, from which I need to remove the burrs with a file after processing ...

After a couple of hours, you can continue. I decided not to make the tracks functional by putting motors on them. Let Wall-e stand still on the table. Based on this, the tracks can be assembled on a strip of aluminum by attaching them with screws.

In the end, this is what happened:

The protruding screws are subsequently grinded with a grinding wheel.

Day four. I make a jumper between the tracks, or rather the main mounting bracket, on which, like on a frame, the body itself and both tracks are held. A very important detail. I calculated it for a long time and even designed it in 3D, just in case ... There is one funny effect here - any detail in real life looks for some reason not quite like on paper :)

First I gave it the outer size and shape, then I drilled out the inner part. This was done in order to save metal and speed up production.

Now you can process the inside.

Trying on the tracks with each other.

This already looks like something. From the remaining piece of metal I make brake shoes.

Day five. The day turned out to be rather boring. I continue to work on the elements of the caterpillars, grinding out various elements of the mountings. Oh, it's good that I gave up the idea of making the chassis working :) But there was an idea to equip the chassis with a drive ... I probably wouldn't have done this project in half a year :)

Oh, how many small parts, and each one needs to be made ...

And try on ...

Two corners of the shoe suspension were made in one piece and then cut in half.

The whole structure was attached to the base with one screw.

Now it's up to the manufacture of the walls of the case. It is necessary to take into account all sorts of factors for installing the motherboard, fixing the arms and all the computer hardware.
I start with the sidewalls. Having cut the blanks, I give them the final dimensions in a package, which will give maximum accuracy during assembly.

The red stripe at the bottom is a spacer to prevent accidental cutting of the cutter into the table.

Sixth day.
I must say that even with such a small body size, a huge amount of material was spent on it, I did not even expect that Valli would turn out to be such a voracious robot ... But what can you do, he's a scavenger robot :)
I make slots for moving the robot's arms, both parts are made symmetrical.

On the fold line, you need to make a groove with an angle of ninety degrees to half the thickness of the metal. This will allow the plate to bend straight.

But this will not protect from scrapping. Dural bends very badly. To do this, you need to heat the fold, and bend it hot.

If everything is done correctly, then an even bend is ensured.

The sides are assembled at the corners.

From the outside, the joint is grinded with a grinder.

Now you can attach the assembled sidewalls to the chassis and see what happens.

Here ... I looked at the picture and realized: I forgot about the camera ... Now they will ask me: where did the interior inserts and decorative elements come from at the back. Well ... I admit my guilt when you are passionate about something you even forget about food :).
The inner part is needed in order to cover the groove and protect the computer from foreign objects falling into it. The semicircular ledge is for decorative purposes only.
Now I'm making the front wall of the case.

And I try it on to the whole structure.

It is already beginning to look like something ...

Seventh day. I start this day by making the front cover of the robot. The prototype of my mod has a kind of garbage scoop, it can open and close. We will also do, behind this cover it will be possible to hide something, for example a DVD./ The cover is bent from a sheet of duralumin and attached with screws to a cylindrical base, which will serve as an axis of rotation. Elements from an aluminum corner are inserted from the sides to give shape and rigidity.

Now you need to try on the lid to the body.

The next step is to make inserts for attaching the arms. Hands should be able to move in the grooves; for this, a square-shaped guide is made.

The hole serves for unhindered insertion of the insert into the groove.

Lord, what dirty hands I have ... :)

This is how the guide should be inserted. Tired of mechanical work, I decided to start priming the chassis and preparing for painting. For the putty, I took a proprietary mixture with the addition of aluminum powder. This putty is specially designed for aluminum.

I carefully coat the screw heads and grind the surface.

I used an acrylic metal primer in spray cans.

Day eight. Today I'm getting down to the swivel arm attachment, ugh ..., the manipulator paw in our Wall-e. The shoulder assembly consists of a cup, a spring, and a mounting screw. The spring serves to create tension on the knot and prevent the hands from moving spontaneously. There is a suede pad under the cup, which will protect the case from scratches when you move your hands (not visible in the photo). All these difficulties so that the legs of the robot can be moved, and so that they themselves can hold in any position.

Screws are screwed into the threaded holes of the cup, which serve as axes for horizontal movement of the hand. The arm itself is made of a rectangular aluminum profile. A plug is inserted into it for attaching to the cup.

This is how it looks assembled.

Now I'm doing the front of the arm. It has a hole for a cylindrical rod.

The front is attached to the arm with two screws.

Today I still managed to make blanks for the "fingers" of the hands.

Day nine. The arm should move freely in all directions, but not fall under its own weight, as I decided earlier ... For this, an aluminum rectangle is attached to the inside of the tube, into which spring-loaded friction elements are inserted. They are made of nylon and create the necessary braking force by pressing against the side walls of the arm body.

To prevent axial displacement of the hand, there is a spring-loaded element at the end of the cracker, which also creates the necessary friction.

This is how the hands look when assembled:

It was the turn of the fingers of the hands, that is, the manipulators of the robot. Again I forgot to photograph the stages of their manufacture ... The pins are set on two axes and have springs to create friction during movement.

It turns out very similar. Now insert the magnet into the front cover of the case. He will keep it closed. A groove is made for it and it is glued into it with epoxy glue. The magnet is located so that it would be opposite the head of the housing fixing screw. I used a powerful neodymium magnet from a broken hard drive.

The lid is now securely held closed.

I continue painting the chassis. All painting was done from spray cans, with acrylic paint.

Day ten. Making a robot head. It should be noted that I racked my brains for a long time over this knot, forgive me for the columbour :) All my suffering was not in vain, it turned out really great. But let's go in order .. So, first you need to prepare two strips of aluminum of the same size. They will serve to form elliptical casings .. their purpose will become clear a little later.

To give them the desired shape, a template is required, I made it from a whole piece of duralumin sixty millimeters thick. At the same time, cheeks were made to create the maximum similarity with the original.

After milling, all parts must be sanded to give them a smooth shape.

This is what I got at the end of this tricky operation:

Now I bend two halves of my head according to the template .. I don’t even know what to call these eyepieces :)

The resulting joint must be located on the inside - there it is less noticeable. The connection is made with screws and an aluminum plate.

Now you can safely cut the hole.

The assembly of the cheeks is carried out using three threaded posts, the screws on the front will serve as decorative elements.

I make two symmetrical pieces.

To connect them together, you need to make a bracket. It will also allow you to move the eyes around its axis, changing the expression on Wall-e's face.

The fixing screw is located inside the housing and has a friction spring.

Both eyes are attached to the "rocker".

But this is how you can turn them, and Wall-and will immediately become offended ...

I am trying to evaluate everything that has been done. It looks like something already :)

Day eleven. I continue to work on Wall-e's head. From scraps of thick-walled aluminum pipes, I make parts for the head body. In our case, this element is purely decorative. It can be assumed that a "real" robot has memory elements or complex eye lenses there .. :)

To give an elliptical shape, the workpiece is cut to length.

After shaping, the housings are attached to the eyes with screws. Since the walls of the pipe are thick, you can drill a hole in the end and cut a thread. Also, the back covers are fastened with screws.

In the center of the covers, you need to install angled connectors from the television antenna, they will simulate the wires on the Wall-e's head.

The next step is to make the elements of the robot head entourage.

And the last one is the covers. They are bent from duralumin plates.

They are attached with two screws. The rest of the small parts of the head are attached to them.

Finally, the head takes on its form ...

Day twelve. I am making a hinge of the head. The head will have several degrees of freedom, that is, the ability to tilt to any side. A locking mechanism is also implemented so that the head itself is held in any position, for this the bracket is connected to it using a pin and a spring clamping device. The principle of operation is well understood from the photos below.

The holes in the bracket are for securing the wires.

I try on my head to the body.

And I try it all on the chassis.

Wall-e's image is beginning to take shape. All cracks in the body are putty, after that I grind all the details and proceed to preliminary painting. The body itself is painted with Ocher paint, all Caterpillar equipment is painted with the same paint, and it matches the color perfectly.

The head is painted with Metallic Gray paint and imitates Old Metal.

Thirteenth day. I start this day by painting the arms, that is, the limbs of the robot. I decided not to paint the fingers and rods, but simply to grind and polish. After all, this is how the fingers of a workaholic robot, which has been collecting garbage for years, should look like :) To apply the stripes, I used a narrow masking tape. First I applied white stripes.

Then black. Pre-covering the white with scotch tape.

I connect the wires in the head of the robot.

Now it was the turn of the eyes themselves. It is difficult to find ready-made lenses, you have to run after it, look for it, buy ... I did it easier - I made them out of plexiglass.

A piece of plexiglass is clamped in a lathe and given the desired outer diameter.

Then I make a radius with a shaped cutter.

It remains only to polish on a rag wheel with GOI paste.

Now it came to the frames of the eyes. First, I make the outer ring.

The eyes are pretty complex. The fact is that in the cartoon they are like living, with a pupil. To imitate such eyes, I had to make a lot of elements ... see for yourself ..

The entire assembly became similar to Wall-e's eyes.

Day fourteen. The day is completely dedicated to painting. I started the day with a visit to my favorite auto shop, bought a liter of thinner and several cans of paint. There were not many visitors, and the seller helped for a long time to choose paints of the desired color. The lad did not understand me .. why do I need the "rust color" :) First of all, I take on the chassis. The paints used were cherry, red, brown, black, carmine and chrome colors. When mixed, you can get a rusty effect.

The paint was applied with a sponge, light touches.

As a result, we have badly worn out, in some places rusty tracks and chassis wheels .. It is immediately clear that they have been running for more than one year through industrial waste dumps :) A sponge was also used to paint the head, only the set of paints had to include gray-blue and silver. For painting, he fixed his head on a board. Very similar to the head of Professor Dowell ... :)

I paint the body, the rust effects are applied with a sponge, I just painted the upper hatches with a brush.

Translation

Translator's note: the robot is awesome smart! Be sure to watch the video under the cut!

I started with the Interactive Valley toy. The current price for toys "r" us is $ 34.99.

I am passionate about robots and have a lot of experience in programming and design to give robots emotion and life. The first piece of advice I can give you is to be sure. The second tip is to be creative. Use them together, and your mind will do the rest for you :)

There are many spare parts available in stores. My workshop is nothing special... I try to buy those parts that are cheaper. Sometimes I take apart other toys because servos are unfortunately the most expensive of all parts :)

For the fasteners, I use cable ties and small screws, bolts and nuts. All are available in cheap build kits at your local store.

To modify the bodies, I use Dremel tools and sometimes my own soldering iron to melt the plastic. When sanding, please have a vacuum cleaner nearby. Attention: When melting, keep the fan window open!

Also, if you decide to melt plastic, please use a separate soldering iron tip.

Here is a video of sVallI in action ...

And here's a cute video where WallI fell while chasing his ball :)

Here's another old video of my first version

Step 1. Materials

Okay, I hope you found a good place to start. The table should be such that it would not be a pity to burn / scratch / stain it (Simply put, do not use your dining table!)

Here's a list of the things I've used ...

1 EZ-B with SDK or EZ-Builder software
www.ez-robot.com
2 servos for transmission
www.hvwtech.com/products_view.asp?ProductID=114
1 standard servo for head (movement to the right and left)
www.hvwtech.com/products_view.asp?ProductID=878
2 hand servos (up and down movement)
www.hvwtech.com/products_view.asp?ProductID=863
1 servo for head tilt
www.hvwtech.com/products_view.asp?ProductID=862
2 analog distance sensors
www.hvwtech.com/products_view.asp?ProductID=88
Multiple 3-wire cables
www.hvwtech.com/products_view.asp?ProductID=690
1 box of screws / bolts / nuts
Available at your local hardware store
Hot glue gun
Available at hobby stores
1 bottle of super glue (probably, we will have this glue "Moment" - approx. transl.)
Or any other good glue for plastic
1 soldering iron
I use temperature controlled soldering irons, which are expensive but recommended in this case. Sometimes you can find them in online stores.
1 set of watch screwdrivers
They are usually sold in plastic boxes with a transparent top.

Step 2. Disassemble the toy

Using a screwdriver, disassemble the toy. Remember what was where, because we will need to put it back together.

Note: Don't make out your eyes.

Step 3. Hands

You need to mount the servos on top of the toy body. This will be your first body modification.

The photo shows how the servo and the original mechanism are installed.

Use a Dremel to cut the plastic at the ends. Make sure you are using a low speed.

I used a glue gun to create a nice snug fit for the servos.

I made two tiny holes in the plastic to screw in the screws for stability.

Mounting arms on servos is a little trickier. I don't have a clear photo of how I did it.

Also, when you figured out how to mount your arm, make sure the servo and arms are centered. Because the servo doesn't rotate 360 degrees.

Step 4. Installing the head and neck

The neck will be mounted on a GWS standard servo. This will allow her to move left and right.

Note: Like the arms, the servo should be centered;)

I used a combination of Dremel with a soldering iron to flatten the neck adapter. I melted 3 small holes to fit the screws onto the servo.

To mount the servo and bracket to your head, you will need to make a larger hole.

I first secured the neck with cable ties, but then I installed the bolt and nut.

Step 5. Drive. Part 1

Now let's give Valli the wheels!

The toy does not have any motors or transmissions. Thus, you have to make it yourself.

Bending and turning of the wheels to the metal axle comes off. I ended up using a Dremel and cutting most of the plastic parts. Anyway, you will want the wheels to be flat on the inside, so don't worry :)

Now we're going to just rip out the cap on the wheels from the center. This will remove the screw. After that, the wheels will fall apart.

If any part of the servo is sticking out, cut it off using a Dremel tool.

The same thing on both sides ... Look at the photo :)

Step 6. Drive. Part 2

Okay, now we're going to mount the transmission to the body.

Take a close look at the picture to see how much to cut.

It's best to take your time at this step. I use a marker to outline where to cut.

Then attach the servos with the mounting bracket. Then glue them with hot glue.

To securely mount the servo, I used cable ties.

Step 7. Distance sensor

I suppose you want your Valli to be able to see.

I used a Dremel to mount a distance sensor on his neck.

The wires that go together into the sensor are very small and break easily. I replaced them with the 3-wire wires discussed in the first step.

Step 8. Head tilt

Nothing makes Valli more alive than turning your head. This adds certain traits to his personality.

I connected both parts of the eyes so that they rotate together. But you don't have to, to make Valli look a little funnier. (and worse - approx. transl.)

NOTE: Don't try to move this tiny servo by hand! You will break the plastic gears inside. Trust me, I already broke them once while trying to do this.

Step 9. Programming

This part is not the hardest part as I am using the EZ-Robot Project. This is a robot controller board that connects to a computer via bluetooth. The board comes with software called EZ-Builder. The software allows you to control the robot without the need for programming. You can add many other features as well, including voice recognition.

Here are some links to get you started ...

Looking for gluing patterns Robot Wally made of paper then welcome to at!

After the release of the cartoon "Walli", the robot scavenger named Walli immediately won the sympathy of millions of children and adults around the world. Despite the fact that several years have passed since the release of the cartoon, people continue to design similar robots from a wide variety of materials.

We want to invite you to join the amateurs paper modeling and use for gluing Robot Valley suggested below schemes.

Making a robot Valli out of paper

To glue the robot Wally, you first need to print parts diagrams of which it consists. It is better to print on a color printer, then the robot will be more beautiful and effective. It is better to use thick paper, thin paper will work well. If you do not have such paper, then print the parts on a regular office A-4 size, and then stick it on cardboard.

When the parts are printed, start cutting them out. Use small scissors or a utility knife to do this.

At the last stage, it remains only to glue all the details. For this, it is better to use a glue stick, this will allow gluing more accurately.

Part diagrams of Valia's robot made of paper

Wally's robot head diagram

Cut out and glue the Valli's robot head.

Valli's robot torso

Then we glue the body of the robot and connect it to the head.

Valli Robot Hands

We glue the robot arms.

Robot Wally's Left Caterpillar

Robot Wally's Right Caterpillar

At the end we glue the tracks on the right and left sides and robot wally made of paper READY!

Since I just wanted a small case, I took a Mini-ITX form factor motherboard as a basis.
The Intel Desktop Board D945GCLF is specifically designed for Internet-centric computers. Featuring an integrated Intel Atom processor based on 45nm manufacturing technology and Intel 945GC Express Chipset, this motherboard is a low-power solution for home and business users. Featuring industry-leading 45nm manufacturing technology with Hi-k dielectrics and metal shutters, this Intel Integrated Processor motherboard offers endless possibilities for communication, movie watching, Internet telephony, gaming and Internet learning.

The reason for choosing this motherboard was the fact that even with a microATX motherboard, the dimensions of the case grew to unacceptable sizes. And I wanted to have a small, desktop design. By the way, in the line of these boards there is a copy based on a dual-core Atom330 processor.
Despite the toy size of the motherboard, this is a pretty smart copy, DVD-video goes completely without brakes, there were no problems on the Internet either. Of course, it is difficult to expect high performance in games from such a crumbs with built-in video ..., but "Stalker" earned on it, God knows not with what quality, but you can play ...

The first day
So, I'll start my story about how I made this mod. Believe it or not, it only took eighteen days! I want to note that no "hack-work" was allowed in the work, I made all the details from metal ..
I started making the body from the chassis of the robot. The wheels were made of sheet duralumin twenty millimeters thick. First, I made the markup on the sheet.

And drilled holes on it.

He separated the blanks from the plate using a jigsaw with a metal blade.

These are how they turned out, not very beautiful ...

I did not make the teeth with absolute similarity either, in my opinion, this is a minor detail.

Here's the summary of a full day of work:

Second day

I continue to manufacture the chassis. I use the same technology to make support beams.

Someone may think that this is an outdated and inconvenient method ... I absolutely agree with this :) But it turned out to be much more convenient, since I had a piece of metal of a very bizarre shape.

On a milling machine, I give them the desired shape ...

To facilitate the design, the excess metal is sampled with a cutter. This was done on all the details. The main thing is not to violate their strength. Here are the results:

Then he grinded out the wheel mounting parts and the support rollers.

I'm trying to collect.

So far, it turns out very well. Track tensioners were also made of sheet duralumin, and then on a lathe made them look like the original

At the end of the second day of work, I got the base of the tracks.

Day three

I started by grinding the upper support rollers ... I'll tell you a secret, these tracks are a hell of a tedious job ... I had to make a huge number of identical parts. However, there is no way without it. Here is such a test of character :) Although, the luminescent is sharpened easily and quickly, it is a pleasure to work with it.

And their axes ...

This is what the top support assembly looks like.

It remains only to attach it at an angle to the base.

In the end, this is what happened:

The protruding screws are subsequently grinded with a grinding wheel.

Day four.

I make a jumper between the tracks, or rather the main mounting bracket, on which, like on a frame, the body itself and both tracks are held. A very important detail. I calculated it for a long time and even designed it in 3D, just in case ... There is one funny effect here - any detail in real life looks for some reason not quite like on paper :)

Trying on the tracks for each other

This already looks like something. From the remaining piece of metal I make brake shoes.

Day five.

The day turned out to be rather boring. I continue to work on the track elements, grind out various fastening elements .. Oh, it's good that I abandoned the idea of making the chassis a working one :) But there was an idea to equip the chassis with a drive ... I probably wouldn't have done this project in half a year: )

Oh, how many small parts, and each one needs to be made ...

And try on ...

Two corners of the shoe suspension were made in one piece and the potto was cut in half.

The whole structure was attached to the base with one screw.

Now it's about making the walls of the case. It is necessary to take into account all sorts of factors for installing the motherboard, fixing the arms and all the computer hardware.
I start with the sidewalls. Having cut the blanks, I give them the final dimensions in a package, which will give maximum accuracy during assembly.

Day six

I must say that even with such a small body size, a huge amount of material was spent on it, I did not even expect that Valli would turn out to be such a voracious robot ... But what can you do, he's a scavenger robot :)

I make slots for moving the robot's arms, both parts are made symmetrical.

On the fold line, you need to make a groove with an angle of ninety degrees and half the thickness of the metal. This will allow the plate to bend straight.

But this will not protect from scrapping. Dural bends very badly. To do this, you need to heat the fold, and bend it hot.

The sides are assembled at the corners.

From the outside, the joint is grinded with a grinder.

Now you can attach the assembled sidewalls to the chassis and see what happens.

And I try it on to the whole structure.

Seventh day

I start this day by making the front cover of the robot. The prototype of my mod has a kind of garbage scoop, it can open and close. Let's do it too, you can hide something behind this cover, for example DVD /

The cover is bent from a sheet of duralumin and fixed with screws to a cylindrical base, which will serve as an axis of rotation. Elements from an aluminum corner are inserted from the sides to give shape and rigidity.

Now you need to try on the lid to the body.

The next step is to make inserts for attaching the arms. Hands should be able to move in the grooves; for this, a square-shaped guide is made.

The hole serves for unhindered insertion of the insert into the groove.

Lord, what dirty hands I have ... :)

I carefully coat the screw heads and grind the surface.

I used an acrylic metal primer in spray cans.

Day eight

Today I'm getting down to the swivel arm attachment, ugh ..., the manipulator paw in our Wall-e. The shoulder assembly consists of a cup, a spring, and a mounting screw. The spring serves to create tension on the knot and prevent the hands from moving spontaneously. There is a suede pad under the cup, which will protect the case from scratches when you move your hands (not visible in the photo). All these difficulties so that the legs of the robot can be moved, and so that they themselves can hold in any position.

Screws are screwed into the threaded holes of the cup, which serve as axes for horizontal movement of the hand.
The arm itself is made of a rectangular aluminum profile. A plug is inserted into it for attaching to the cup.

This is how it looks assembled.

Now I'm doing the front of the arm. It has a hole for a cylindrical rod.

The front is attached to the arm with two screws.

Today I still managed to make blanks for the "fingers" of the hands.

Day nine

The arm should move freely in all directions, but not fall under its own weight, as I decided earlier ... For this, an aluminum rectangle is attached to the inside of the tube, into which spring-loaded friction elements are inserted. They are made of nylon and create the necessary braking force by pressing against the side walls of the arm body.

To prevent axial displacement of the hand, there is a spring-loaded element at the end of the cracker, which also creates the necessary friction.

This is how the hands look when assembled:

It turns out very similar. Now insert the magnet into the front cover of the case. He will keep it closed. A groove is made for it, and it is glued into it with epoxy glue. The magnet is located so that it would be opposite the head of the housing fixing screw. I used a powerful neodymium magnet from a broken hard drive.

The lid is now securely held closed.

I continue painting the chassis. All painting was done from spray cans, with acrylic paint.

Day ten.

Making a robot head. It should be noted that I racked my brains for a long time over this knot, forgive me for the columbour :) All my suffering was not in vain, it turned out really great. But let's go in order ..

So, first you need to prepare two strips of aluminum of the same size. They will serve to form elliptical casings .. their purpose will become clear a little later.

After milling, all parts must be sanded to give them a smooth shape.

This is what I got at the end of this tricky operation:

Now I bend two halves of my head according to the template .. I don’t even know what to call these eyepieces :)

The resulting joint must be located on the inside - there it is less noticeable. The connection is made with screws and an aluminum plate.

Now you can safely cut the hole.

The assembly of the cheeks is carried out using three threaded posts, the screws on the front will serve as decorative elements.

I make two symmetrical pieces.

To connect them together, you need to make a bracket. It will also allow you to move the eyes around its axis, changing the expression on Wall-e's face.

The fixing screw is located inside the housing and has a friction spring.

Both eyes are attached to the "rocker".

But this is how you can turn them, and Wall-and will immediately become offended ...

I am trying to evaluate everything that has been done. It looks like something already :)

Day eleven

I continue to work on Wall-e's head. From scraps of thick-walled aluminum pipes, I make parts for the head body. In our case, this element is purely decorative. It can be assumed that a "real" robot has memory elements or complex eye lenses there .. :)

To give an elliptical shape, the workpiece is cut to length.

In the center of the covers, you need to install angled connectors from the television antenna, they will simulate the wires on the Wall-e's head.

The next step is to make the elements of the robot head entourage.

And the last one is the covers. They are bent from duralumin plates.

They are attached with two screws. The rest of the small parts of the head are attached to them.

Finally, the head takes on its form ...

Day twelve

I am making a hinge of the head. The head will have several degrees of freedom, that is, the ability to tilt to any side. A locking mechanism is also implemented so that the head itself is held in any position, for this the bracket is connected to it using a pin and a spring clamping device. The principle of operation is well understood from the photos below.

The holes in the bracket are for securing the wires.

I try on my head to the body.

And I try it all on the chassis.

Wall-e's image is beginning to take shape.

All cracks in the body are putty, after that I grind all the details and proceed to preliminary painting. The body itself is painted with Ocher paint, all Caterpillar equipment is painted with the same paint, and it matches the color perfectly.

The head is painted with Metallic Gray paint and imitates Old Metal.

Day thirteen

I start this day by painting the arms, that is ... the limbs of the robot. I decided not to paint the fingers and rods, but simply to grind and polish. After all, this is how the fingers of a workaholic robot should look like, which has been collecting garbage for years :)

To apply the stripes, I used a narrow masking tape. First I applied white stripes.

Then black. Pre-covering the white with scotch tape.

I connect the wires in the head of the robot.

Now it was the turn of the eyes themselves. It is difficult to find ready-made lenses, you have to run after it, look for it, buy ... I did it easier - I made them out of plexiglass.

A piece of plexiglass is clamped in a lathe and given the desired outer diameter.

Then I make a radius with a shaped cutter

It remains only to polish on a rag wheel with GOI paste.

And the lens is ready! Of course, it does not have excellent optical qualities, but they are not needed here.

Now it came to the frames of the eyes. First, I make the outer ring.

The eyes are pretty complex. The fact is that in the cartoon they are like living, with a pupil. To imitate such eyes, I had to make a lot of elements ... see for yourself ..

The entire assembly became similar to Wall-e's eyes.

Day fourteen

The day is completely dedicated to painting. I started the day with a visit to my favorite auto shop, bought a liter of thinner and several cans of paint. There were not many visitors, and the seller helped for a long time to choose paints of the desired color. The lad did not understand me .. why do I need the "rust color" :) First of all, I take on the chassis. The paints used were cherry, red, brown, black, carmine and chrome colors. When mixed, you can get a rusty effect.

The paint was applied with a sponge, light touches.

As a result, we have heavily worn out, in places rusty tracks and chassis wheels .. It is immediately clear that they ran off for more than one year through industrial waste dumps :)
A sponge was also used to paint the head, only gray-blue and silver had to be included in the set of paints. For painting, he fixed his head on a board. Very similar to the head of Professor Dowell ... :)

I paint the body, the rust effects are applied with a sponge, I just painted the upper hatches with a brush.

I try on my head to the body.

Day fifteen

It's time to tackle the front panel of the robot, since our robot will no longer run around landfills, we will need something else ... I place a USB connector and LEDs on a piece of a breadboard. The LEDs will illuminate the nameplate with the battery charge indicator, and the blinking sun will correspond to the activity of the hard drive.

Checking ...

And I install it in the case. To install this board, two threaded posts are provided in the housing. I drew the nameplate in CorelDraw and printed it on an inkjet printer on a transparent film. A transparent tape is glued to the top of the film to protect it from dirt and moisture.

Until the end of the day, I was engaged in making track pads, I was so tired with them that I forgot to take pictures. They were made of aluminum strip and glued to the tracks. Then the tracks are finally painted and varnished. For painting the tracks I used a silver Hammer paint. This paint has a remarkable property: it somewhat increases in volume after application, thereby giving the object a relief.

Day sixteen

If you have not watched this magnificent cartoon, then I will tell you something about the robot Valli - he was a music lover! Yes, he devilishly loved music, and even had a player built into the case, how! What exactly drove the designers of the scavenger robot when they equipped it with such a strange subject, we now do not know ... so we just make buttons. In our case, one of them will be the start of the computer, the other will be a reset. I have aligned the symbols on the buttons.

The buttons are polished and the symbols are filled with paint.

The turn came to the front cover. You need to write the name of the robot on it. With a thin needle, I applied two reference lines (scratches are barely noticeable, and they will then disappear under the varnish).
I painted the inscription itself with a thin brush, the work is long and painstaking, but I am satisfied with the result.

Day seventeen

I will delight our dear reader - the corpus is almost ready! Remained a mere trifle - to install the iron in the case :) The decision came by itself, to make a removable chassis from aluminum corners, to it and fix all the iron. As a matter of fact, inside the Valley it is so cramped that there could be no other solution ... I am engaged in the chassis for the electronic filling of the robot. As planned, all electronics should be removed from the case as a single unit to facilitate access to all parts. The frame was made of an aluminum corner, as planned at first.

The next step is to install the DVD, it must be positioned in the center of the chassis, for this I use threaded cylindrical racks.

It is also necessary to carefully measure the height of the drive, so that it exactly hits the window intended for it.

The drive itself decided not to paint. What if you want to change it?

Now I'm installing the motherboard.

And after it the Winchester. Moreover, the latter was positioned so that the connectors were on the same axis to facilitate cable connection.

Day eighteen

The power supply had to be disassembled to reduce its height. A separate compartment is made for it in the chassis. The fan is attached to the chassis and covered with a mesh.

I want to note that such manipulations with the power supply can only be afforded by a person with extensive experience and good knowledge in the field of electronics. The slightest mistake is fraught with electric shock, or iron failure. You must understand the principle of operation of the power supply unit, as well as know that high voltage is present on almost all of its parts.

I attach a decorative cover to the chassis and connect all the wires.

This is how the block is inserted into the case.

And this is how it looks from behind ...

Day nineteen

Actually, I thought the work was completed. But during the preliminary discussion, my friend Pavel drew my attention to the fact that the robot's eyes turned out to be too small and thus lose their expressiveness ...

A still from the film confirms this ... It was decided to correct such an annoying mistake.

And what happened to me ...

I had to redo it, but at first I did not attach any importance to such a fact. When I did cheeks, I was afraid to leave a very thin jumper and stepped back a lot from the edge. Because of this, the eyes turned out to be small. Now we need to fix it. But now you can't clamp it on the machine, you have to work with a file ...

I cut one hole and got tired so that there is nowhere else :) You yourself know - it is always more difficult to redo ...

But this is not enough, the eyes must be completely new, with all the lenses and rings ...

Well, I saw it out. But not without scratches, you have to tint ...

Now that's it! The eyes are true to the original!

The final

So the turn came to the final shots. I present to you my creation in full glory :)

In conclusion, I want to add that to make such a mod I needed all my life experience ... turning, milling and drilling machines. Drill, grinder and lumine cuttings from Tsvetmet's landfill. Guys, if you are really fond of homemade products, be sure to get your own machines, now it is very affordable ..
And yet ... if someone liked this computer, I will gladly sell it as soon as I play enough :) but in my head I already have an idea for the next homemade product ...

Hey! Do you want to assemble a robot that is not difficult to assemble? You have come to the right place! =) It is on our site that you can find detailed articles on step-by-step assembly of your first robot, as well as many other robots, and even for competitions.

We are very glad that our articles will help you, a beginner robotics engineer, to master this interesting area and improve your skill in this direction. We also want to note that according to these articles, we, the developers of the SERVODROID website, conduct classes in free robotics circles, and we really like to teach and tell what BEAM-robotics is to everyone.

Help our project! Register on our website and come to our Online chat or forum and share your crafts and your progress - after all, it is your activity that attracts more and more attention of beginners to robotics - they look at your success and want to become just as cool, and we are very nice to see that you are doing well. And if something does not work out, we will help;)

Paper model WALL-E (WALL-E) from the m / f "WALL-I"- (Universal Landscape Light Annihilator - Intelligent; English WALL-E) - BNL robots, one of which found its true purpose, the original color is light yellow, but gradually it became rusty. When Eva arrived, WALL-E fell in love with her.

Materials and tools:

scissors, paper knife, drawing ruler;
tweezers;
brushes for glue and paint;
watercolors (or pencils), toothpicks;
transparent acrylic glue ("Moment", etc.);
for printing the model matte photo paper with a density of 170-180 g / m2; for small parts - 70-80 g / m2.

before assembling the part, read the drawings and instructions. Locate each part and imagine assembling it;
make holes in the parts before cutting out the part itself;
cut only the part (s) you need right now. Place unfused parts in a box, and unused sheets in a closed folder (as an option). When throwing away trash after work, carefully inspect the paper scraps;
for a better bend of the part, it is necessary to draw under the ruler along the fold line, slightly pressing, with the blunt side of a knife or a toothpick so as not to damage the surface of the paper. It is better to do this from the wrong side of the part;
keep your fingers clean and be sure to use wipes to wipe your hands, because your hands can get dirty during work;
before gluing, wrap cylindrical parts on a round object of a suitable diameter, this will give them a shape;
before gluing, it is necessary to paint over the ends of the part. White trim lines spoil the overall look of the model. Use watercolors or gouache paints to paint the ends. Having found the desired color, apply them in a thin layer, then let the paint dry. It is better to forget about felt-tip pens;
take your time with gluing. First, cut out the part, paint over it from the end, wait for the paint to dry, assemble the part. Attach it to where it should be to make sure everything is done correctly. And only then stick. Do not forget to let the glue dry.

Photo-assembly instructions

Paper model of a box for WALL-I

Paper model of a rubbish cube for WALL-I

Paper model of a fire extinguisher for WALL-I