Homemade plywood boat: materials, tool selection, construction features, drawings, hull assembly and gluing seams. DIY plywood boat drawing: motor boat patterns for self-construction, manufacturing, video review Samod

Probably every fishing lover has thought at least once about how to make a homemade boat. This is not an easy matter, but it is still possible to make such a craft.

And you don't have to be an engineer, all that is required of you is a few hours of free time. And you will learn about how homemade boats are made from plywood from our today's article.

Manufacturing difficulties

Is it really difficult to make such a design with a minimal set of tools? As practice shows, even with such equipment, a homemade inflatable boat (or plywood) is made easily in 3-4 hours. Due to the fact that it takes a minimum of time to complete all these works, you can make a boat even in the open air. Well, in case of a change in the weather, you can always cover it with a tarpaulin or a piece of plastic wrap.

What are good

First, plywood is lightweight, durable and warm enough. It is almost impossible to kill such a boat, and it does not weigh too much. Secondly, unlike rubber analogs, the space in a plywood boat is enough for several people (while inside, between the seats, you can fit all the necessary fishing tackle). In store options, free space is sorely lacking.

Thirdly, being in a wooden boat does not feel any discomfort at all.

Preparation of materials

The main material from which homemade boats are made is plywood. There are no difficulties in finding it on the market. Plywood is perhaps the most accessible and cheapest material for such works. And it is very convenient to work with her.

Let's get down to business

First of all, I would like to note that any work related to the independent production of any tool (whether it be a tractor or something else, it does not matter) should be carried out clearly according to a given scheme. In this case, you should have drawings of homemade boats in your hands. In some cases, drawings can be replaced by a sketch drawing.

So, how it is done To assemble the case, you will need to prepare dry boards with a thickness of 2.5 centimeters and a 6-millimeter sheet of plywood. The stern and side boards must be 30.5 centimeters wide. This is the most optimal size for a fishing boat. All other elements that are inside the structure (seats and spacers) are made of boards 2.5 centimeters wide. In this case, the length of these parts is 86.4 centimeters. It should be borne in mind that the dimensions of all these elements must be exactly maintained, since they are all attached to the boat hull only with self-tapping screws.

The manufacture of all parts and elements of this design does not cause any difficulties and difficulties at all. This is due to their simple geometric shape.

In the course of work, pay special attention to the fitting of the abutting surfaces and the fringe of the boat. All abutting edges must be carefully fitted and have minimum gaps along the entire length. Either tinned or galvanized self-tapping screws are used as fasteners. As for the dimensions of these fasteners, depending on the place of application, they can be as follows:

The bottom of the boat is made of a 6 mm thick plywood sheet. But, since this part of the boat will be constantly exposed to water, to make the boat waterproof, additionally treat the hull and bottom joints with VIAM-B / 3 type glue and fasten with screws along the entire perimeter. If there is no such agent ("VIAM-B / 3"), oil paint is quite suitable as an alternative. Although it does not have good adhesive properties and characteristics, it gives a durable and waterproof coating. It is worth noting that the distance between the screws should be about 4 centimeters. The outer seams should be carefully glued with cloth or percale using AK-20. In order not to collapse the bottom of the boat, a rack grate is installed between the spacers (the cross section of the rails is 5x2 centimeters).

The resulting liquid should be diluted with clean linseed oil. In this case, the calculation is made so that the boat can be painted 2-3 more times. According to its properties, liquid paint is better, it spreads more easily, and therefore gives a more durable and even coating. When applying this product to the boat, use wide, soft brushes.

Some enthusiasts use nitro paints based on their high quality finish. However, we do not recommend using them for such boats, since they do not provide the necessary durability to the wood (accordingly, the structure becomes less and less durable and unusable every year).

Important points

If home-made motor boats are made, then an additional drawing of special mounts for an electric or gasoline engine is made. However, a simpler and cheaper option would be to use regular oars. They are often made from 35mm birch planks. In this case, a spindle with a handle is installed at the end of the spindle, and brass linings are applied to the edge of the blade. Next, the paddle is primed and painted.

And finally, some statistics. As practice shows, the average service life of plywood boats is about 15-20 years. Neither plastic nor even rubber competitors can boast of such vitality.

Rowing and sailing boat. This is an ideal boat for traveling on lakes, reservoirs and not very rapids rivers. The cruising speed that can be developed on this boat with the help of oars is 6-7 km per hour.

I wonder how the author bent the 100x15 board. Previously, he soaked her in a polyethylene bath, and then they unleashed her on the rafters, bending along the bends of the side. In order to increase the flow around the boat, a removable awning is provided, which also protects the boat from splashes.

For protection from rain and splashes, a rigid awning is made, molded from polyester and glass mat. The wall thickness is 4-5 cm. A sealed compartment is made under the awning. Due to its streamlined shape, the awning not only protects from wind and rain, but also increases the speed of the vessel. Burrowing into the wave with its bow, the boat does not run the risk of scooping up water. The awning is removable and fixed with two bolts.
The paddles are homemade. The spindle of the oar is glued. Polypropylene paddle. Pay attention to the position of the paddle on the vertical loop. The oars in the boat take up almost no space and are always ready for use. The oars are remarkably balanced due to the weight blocks cast from lead into a ladle. Thus, the oar combines the advantages of a roller oar and a double-turn oarlock.

Now about the tiller lock. It is very useful when there are two rowers in the boat, and the side wind turns the boat around, forcing you to row with one oar more. The latch is a bundle with a Euler loop. By adjusting the position of the loop, you can compensate for the force of the wind and row with both hands at full strength. The rudder is made of wood and the tiller is made of aluminum tube. The structure is quick-detachable and is mounted on a clip.

The clip was made by a craftsman from a broken scooter.
A rag stern awning protects from the overwhelming "lambs" of the catching waves.
Finally the mast. The material of the mast is glued beech. Another boat of the lawyer Egorov V.

Discussion

Ivan Krivenko

Regarding the original tackle, adding as much as 10! degrees to the sharpness to be honest, I did not notice. The only thing that I saw unusual for this weapon was the installation of the mainsail: without being tied to the mast, stretched between the boom and the gaff and the luff extending forward in front of the mast. I think this version of the grotto setting allows:
a) it is better to regulate the tension of the front luff of the mainsail, thereby it is more successful to choose the belly of the mainsail for sharp courses
b) at the same time, the mast does not have a negative effect on the formation of air streams flowing around the sail from both sides.
I will not comment on anything in general about the vessel, because I will not say anything new and I just want to join all the previous positive statements 🙂
Sergey Firin

A lawyer, you are just a nugget, open a company, do it for sale from the norms. materials at reasonable prices, with such ideas you will occupy a niche, and then only imported boats, sailboats at crazy prices!

Timofey Vetoshkin

Shoot videos weekly, daily, hourly: just shoot whatever you do! I am simply inspired when I see your work: neat, thoughtful, creative and always productive!

Great video! And most importantly, there is a variety - from a bottle cutter to a rowing and sailing boat.
Very glad I came across your channel! P.S. The boat is valid! I myself have been repairing boats and yachts for 2 years 🙂 Greetings from Vladivostok! Peace to your home!

Vladimir Zibarev

Now I understand a lawyer! And the head is there and the hands are from the right place. I suspect that he could buy at least half of all the goodies, but he prefers to do it with his hands, and at the same time it is good and beautiful. Keep it up!

Timur Steel

According to my humble observations, almost everyone who maintains a blog on YouTube does not ignore the subject of knife (forging a thermal, etc. in some cases), it will be interesting to observe your ways and methods of working with steel and not only.
Thanks for the video, it was very informative.

Maxim, you are not a person, but some kind of disgrace. Look everyone at him. He does not at all look like the main mass of people. His hands grow from where it is necessary, and the brain is present in his head. Moreover, he also knows how to use this brain. Straight some kind of Quasimodo)) But seriously, then ... well, just a young fellow, well, how else can you say. I wish you the best in obtaining patents and developing new ideas.

bigman23362
A year ago
If possible, one piece of advice: in the desire to make your speech very literate and beautiful, you are extremely overloading it with special terms and sophisticated words. I do not consider myself a bad person, I have something in my life baggage, so to speak, but it can be very difficult for me to keep track of a thought densely interspersed with tricky terms. Make videos easier to follow.

sportikainvest
A year ago
Maxim Sergeevich, thanks for your videos. The most important question for all fans of your videos, perhaps, where did you learn everything you know? Maybe your father spent hours with you or you graduated from some interesting school. Maybe you read 24 hours a day as a child. A person, an ordinary person, cannot have such knowledge by the age of 30. It will be interesting to hear the answer. Thanks. (Can you advise how and what to teach the child and in which institutions of the country)

Igor Tsygankov
A year ago
I watched your next video, I see a lot of them. In general: “Both a reader and a reaper and a gambler on a pipe ..” - this is the opinion I have about you. You are probably a single millionaire, you do not work, you spend all your time on inventions and homemade products. Bravo, sir - you are a genius !!!

Mr V
Everyone is looking for self-expression and just a favorite thing. very often the main job brings money, but does not bring self-expression. here and there are gentlemen Yegorovs among the people. Thanks for the content - very motivating!

Anton Vernitsky
A year ago
It's just some kind of captain "Nemo". In reality, there are no such people. To have so many resources, motivation, + also a permanent job to financially support this huge layer of "Kulibin" entertainment. He just had one thing left: to start building the Egyptian pyramid. He has buildings, the theme is eternal)).

Specialty shops offer a fairly large number of boats for fishing or tourism. On sale you can find products of various shapes and sizes, but the drawings of motor boats made of plywood, which are in the public domain, allow you to make such a vessel with your own hands literally from scratch.

So why don't you try your hand and build a boat with your own hands from plywood, drawings and all the recommendations for construction you will find in this article.

If you are still in doubt about the advisability of using a material such as plywood for boat construction, check out its main benefits.

Advantages of plywood sheets:

1. A boat made of plywood, the drawings and patterns of which are made correctly, will have a very light, but at the same time, quite strong structure, because glued veneer has a much lower weight than solid wood.
2. The structure will have excellent stability, since the plywood sheets have clear geometric proportions, allowing for an impeccable installation in terms of quality.
3. Low costs when purchasing the necessary materials, namely: plywood boards, specialized adhesives, boards, compounds for priming.

Note! Any person with at least basic carpentry skills will need no more than one or one and a half days to make a boat out of plywood with their own hands; a drawing with patterns can be purchased in a store or drawn up independently, using our recommendations.

Selection of tools and materials

The modern market provides customers with a huge selection of specialized varnish and adhesives, all kinds of impregnations designed for working with plywood products. To make a boat from this material, you do not need to look for special tools and devices.

The list of essentials includes:

1. Plywood boards. For the construction, birch plywood is suitable, the thickness of which is 0.5 cm; for the manufacture of the keel and frames, you will need thick plates of about 1.2-1.5 cm.
2. The wood used to install the inboard spacers and work with the bumpers and boat seats. It is best if you buy edged boards made from light woods such as pine or spruce. However, each of these materials has its own characteristics. For example, spruce has a higher water resistance than pine and its wood looks whiter, so it is most often used for cladding. But spruce boards also have their drawbacks, they can crack as a result of hammering in nails.
3. Material for seam fastening of individual sheathing parts. Flexible thin wire, plastic clamps, thick nylon line, etc. are used as such material.
4. The adhesive used to seal the joints. Experts recommend using formulations based on polymer resins.
5. Specialized impregnating and varnishing compositions for wood preservation.
6. Glass fabric used as a protective material for seams.
7. Waterproof dye.

Note! To make a boat with your own hands, purchase only high-quality materials. Plywood should not have any damage or defects on its surface that could affect the reliability of your product. The cost of purchasing quality material is much higher, but safety is much more important.

Tools:

• a saw designed for working with wooden surfaces;
• jigsaw and a set of canvases for it;
• Sander;
• hammer;
• fixing clamps for securing plywood during installation;
• varnishing and coloring compounds, as well as brushes for their application.

Initial stage of work: drawing up drawings

If you have not yet decided how to make a boat out of plywood, drawings in this matter play an important role, therefore, it is necessary to start the process of making your product with them.

The first thing that your drawing of a plywood boat should take into account is the features of the future vessel. Do not forget to designate for yourself for what purposes your vessel will be used. For example, are you looking to make a flat-bottomed boat for fishing or charting a motor boat for tourism.

Note! In this article you can find ready-made drawings of boats for self-construction from plywood with different design features. You can take advantage of these options to ensure that your calculations are correct.

If you have not found the option you need among the presented samples, then you can try to design a ship according to your own scheme. So that, as a result of your labors, you do not have a decorative version of the vessel, which is simply impossible to fully exploit, put the main emphasis in your calculations on the carrying capacity.

The study of existing projects that have been successfully implemented will help you navigate the first stage.

You can use the drawings and videos presented here to make a boat out of plywood with your own hands. This video review examines the manufacturing technology of the simplest design, which even a beginner can handle.

After you have selected the appropriate version of the boat, you need to transfer the contours of its main parts to paper. To make it easier for you to work with plywood after that, you can make a paper template.

All the most important parameters of the boat should be applied to the drawing:

• product size;
• width;
• construction height;
• the shape of the main parts.

At first glance, the execution scheme of the boat's hull may seem complicated, but if you adhere to all the recommendations, the result will not be long in coming.

Execution technology:

• Using a saw or jigsaw, complete all structural details according to your drawing. The permissible error in dimensions is 1 mm, otherwise you will end up with a discrepancy in the parts during assembly.
• Parts of the tailgate and frames are glued together to provide the structure with the required level of strength and thickness. Despite the fact that these elements after gluing will have a lot of weight, this fact will not affect the quality of the structure you are doing.

• To keep the connections that hold the transoms and frames together very strong, you can use securing elements such as self-tapping screws. At the same time, it is very important to calculate their length: the fastener must fully connect the parts, but at the same time not go through them. The surface of the self-tapping screws must be galvanized or tinned. The parameters of the screws required in the work are 3x25 mm and 2x18 mm, for the seats, stern and sides, self-tapping screws 5x60 mm and 4x60 mm are used.
• To facilitate your work, make goats from 5x5 cm bars. It will be more convenient to place the transom on them during the installation process.
• The sides and bottom of the structure are attached to the transom so that they come together on the bow.

• If you are using plywood that is not very thick, then all sheathing parts can be fixed with a suture or adhesive. In the event that you use glue, the edge part of the parts, where the joint zone will be located, must be cut at an angle.
• Make sure that all parts of the boat fit together in size. If you need to reduce the gap, you will have to re-disassemble the structure and cut the veneers in some places.
• In those designs where the presence of a motor is provided, the transom is necessarily glued with glass cloth and strengthened by fixing boards made of hard wood.

At the end of the rough assembly, all parts are glued and fixed. When the adhesive is completely dry, the surface of the boat should be degreased, impregnated with a composition intended for processing boats, putty on the unevenness, apply hot drying oil and cover with a dye composition.

The development and appearance of such an unusual project is due to the widespread interest of sailing enthusiasts in sea antiquity. A small and shallow-draft (draft 1.5 m), but quite seaworthy cruising yacht, designed for long voyages by a crew of 8-9 people, has been given some features characteristic of sailing ships of the 18th - early 19th centuries - the heyday of the sailing fleet. At the same time, the project provides for the use of modern materials and hull construction, as well as technological methods used today ...

The ship's spar was designed taking into account the main features of shipbuilding from the times of the sailing fleet: the "classic" proportions and principles of armament have been preserved. In the old days, the masts of small ships were most often made in one piece or they were assembled from parts well fitted to one another - pieces fastened from the outside with veils (strapping with a strong cable) every 800-1000 mm ...

For some time, operations with the 48-kilogram "Whirlwind" became difficult for me - carrying it from the storage place to the boat, hitching to the transom, removing it from the boat, etc. I had a dream about a leisurely displacement boat with an economical stationary engine, with a cabin that would protect from rain and wind. So the boat presented in the photo and sketch, equipped with an air-cooled UD-25 four-stroke carburetor engine, appeared ...

DIY boat hull assembly

The body is assembled using clips of copper wire 1.5-2.0 mm thick (this process was repeatedly described in the magazine). Paired holes of 02 mm for these clips are drilled in the bottom and in the sides along the line of their abutment at a distance of about 1 cm from the edges and with a pitch of 70-100 mm.

Especially carefully it is necessary to adjust the bow edges of the sides, which are adjacent and attached to the stem. Then you need to attach the bottom, which fits exactly in size to the sides, transom and stem. Preliminarily, along the connection line, the bead should be removed from the side. After connecting the main elements, the hull of the boat takes on its final shape.

Staples are rather mounting elements and cannot provide strength, let alone tightness of the boat's hull. For these purposes, a binder with a filler is used, with which the joints are putty on all edges, and fiberglass, formed when glued in several layers of thin fiberglass tapes from the outside and from the inside of the boat.

To get a strong layer of fiberglass without air bubbles and peeling from plywood, it is necessary to drown the staple wire as deep as possible into the wood, which protrudes inside the body above the joint. This can be done with a hammer and a blunt chisel or other similar tool. In this case, the seam is further tightened and becomes stronger. It is also important to clean the bonding area well beforehand.

Begin gluing from the inside of the boat. It is advisable to limit the width of the glue-lubricated area by applying masking tape on both sides of the joint.

The epoxy glue prepared according to the instructions for use is applied with a brush, then a dry fiberglass tape 40-50 mm wide is laid on top. You can simply roll it out of the roll without pulling it. It is advisable to use a factory-made tape widely used for insulation work. You just need to check that the fiberglass is not saturated with paraffin (in this case, it can be removed with gasoline, thinner or acetone). If the fiberglass has high humidity, it must be calcined in a gas oven.

The glass cloth is “tapped” with a hard brush moistened with a binder until it is uniformly impregnated, and it becomes transparent. Don't just put in too much resin. Air bubbles must be removed, otherwise the plastic may subsequently delaminate due to them and water will begin to penetrate into the wooden case.

From the inside, you need to lay three or four layers of fiberglass tape, alternately slightly shifting each subsequent layer in different directions so that the edge of the tape is shifted by 10-15 mm. If you have to cut the tape yourself from fiberglass, then for the upper layers its width may be greater. In length, the ends of the tapes should also overlap the previous layer by 15-20 mm.

When the glue has set, you can remove the adhesive tape limiting the gluing surface and leave the body for a day to build up the strength of the connection. After that, using pliers from the outside of the case, remove the protruding twists of paper clips, file them flush with the surface of the sheathing and grind them down. It is necessary to carefully putty all small chips and irregularities with a mixture of the used glue and filler - very fine sawdust or wood flour. Outside, it is enough to lay the fiberglass tape in two or three layers.

When processing all surfaces covered with fiberglass, it should be remembered that the adhesive layer must not be removed and the fiberglass cloth is not exposed - in this case, water will filter through the capillary channels between the fibers of the fabric, the edges of the plywood will swell and begin to rot.

Rice. 1. Structural units of the hull of a homemade boat:
1 - cutting the sides and transom; 2 - cutting the bottom; 3 - overlay on the stem;
4 - transom harness; 5 - frame; 6 - stern knits; 7 - centerboard well; 8 - nasal knit; 9 - places of installation of the yelan on the bottom; 10 - places of installation of stringers along the sides; 11 - installation of the frame in the assembled body and the lining on the stem; 12 - fender bar; 13 - fastening of the fenders (a) and the collar (b) to the side (c); 14 - mast attachment unit.

Boat hull equipment

The walls of the centerboard well are cut out from the remnants of plywood scraps. On each wall from the outside, two strips are glued with epoxy glue, and bars are glued between the walls along the edges of the well, which, slightly protruding from the bottom, form spikes according to the size of the gap in the bottom.

A medium jar is made from a board with a size of 1100x250x20 mm. In the center of it, at 1/4 of the width of the can, a recess is cut out according to the dimensions of the centerboard well box. Thanks to the connection to the can, the centerboard well will receive additional support and become stronger. At its ends, the can board rests on rails attached to the sides of the sailing dinghy.

A frame is installed in the hull, which adds strength and rigidity to the boat.

On the upper board, a fender is attached with glue and screws. If the length of the workpiece is insufficient, then it can be increased by connecting the two parts "on the mustache". Dry timber is difficult to bend properly along the side (especially in the nose area). Proceed as follows: in the place of the bend, wrap the workpiece with rags and pour boiling water from a kettle.

After a while, the timber in this place will become flexible, and it will not be difficult at all to bend it as needed. Before fastening from the outside of the side to the fender bar, spacers are installed on the glue. In addition to protecting the sides, the gunwales mounted on glue and screws together with linings on the inner side of the sides give the body the necessary strength and rigidity.

After the glue hardens on the fender, it is thoroughly cleaned. In the bow and at the corners of the stern, plywood knots are placed on it with screws.

A wooden lining is attached to the stem on screws (it is also possible on nails), which is given a streamlined semicircular shape.

Separately, from scraps of thin boards and plywood, a mast attachment unit is assembled, which is installed in the bow of the hull. When installing a centerboard well above the gap in the bottom, a piece of cloth soaked in epoxy resin is placed under it, after which the well is attracted with screws. The beams of the well box protruding through the gap are cut flush with the bottom skin.

In the stern, close to the transom at a height of about 150 mm, two slats are fixed on the sides with screws and glue, on which the stern bank will lie. Although it is not provided for in the design of a French boat, it is better to make it. During swimming, water always appears in the hull, and sitting in wet clothes on the bottom is not very pleasant. In addition, under the stern bank (and in the bow too), blocks of foam are placed, which in an emergency will ensure the unsinkability of the vessel.

You will probably want to paddle in this boat. How else to approach the coast in complete calm? It remains to put the oarlocks. This completes the equipment of the building.

Before the final pasting of the boat with fiberglass from the outside and from the inside, it should be thoroughly cleaned, removing all roughness and resin stains, otherwise your product will look sloppy.

Rice. 2. Sailing rig of the boat, centerboard and rudder:

1 - flat cutting of the sails; 2 - centerboard; 3 - tiller; 4 - mast; 5 - yards (boom and upper rack); 6 - hinge of the rudder to the transom (a - loops fixed from the outside on the upper and lower bars of the transom harness; b - kingpin; c - bracket fixed to the rudder head); 7 - rudder feather.

DIY rigging and its device

While the hull, pasted over with fiberglass, dries up, you should start making a mast, a sail, a rudder, a centerboard and oars.

The mast is made of a bar with a cross section of 40 × 40 mm. The upper part of the workpiece is planed with a plane until a circular section is obtained, from the bottom it is left square. In the upper part, a hole is drilled in it for the halyard to lift the sail. For the mast, you can use both a tree trunk and a duralumin pipe. Only the lower end (spurs) still have to be made of a square cross-section so that the mast fits snugly and does not rotate in the ‘step. The boom and rods are of the same size and are made from a bar or metal tube.

The centerboard and rudder blade are cut from plywood with a thickness of 8-10 mm. Thinner plywood can also be used by gluing several layers to the desired thickness. But it is better for making a centerboard to choose a suitable size of a piece of board and give it the necessary shape by processing.

The rudder blade is attached to the transom with metal loops and non-ferrous alloy brackets. A metal kingpin passes through them. The tiller is attached to the blade with a 015 mm through bolt.

A paddle or paddle (for which oarlocks are not needed) is made from a bar with rounded corners and a plywood blade. The oarlocks are simple wooden pegs with a belt loop on them.

The sail can be made not only from fabric, but also from a thick plastic wrap. It tears easily at the edges, so it should be "cut" with a strip of durable material. On the upper and lower luffs, the strips are made 60-65 mm wide so that they simultaneously serve as pockets for the boom and the top rail (they are inserted inside these pockets). Ribbons are sewn to the corners of the sail panel, which serve to secure it. If the sail is made of fabric, then two lat pockets are made on the luff, into which battens of 1.5-2 mm plywood are inserted. Such armor does not allow the luff of the sail to be wrapped.

The halyard, attached to the middle of the rail, passes through the hole in the mast and the eye (ring) on ​​the stem (it can be picked up ready-made or bent from a wire of 04 mm) and is laid behind the mast or on a stopper next to the mast.

The boom sheet is fixed on the transom with one end and passed through the blocks on the boom nose (stern end) and on the other side of the transom. The other end of the boom has a swivel with which it is put on the mast. It is made of non-ferrous sheet metal with a thickness of 2-3 mm. The braces run diagonally from the bottom of the staff to the toe of the boom.