Homemade grinder from improvised tools. The simplest curvimeter from the elements of a burnt-out "grinder" with your own hands Make from a burnt-out grinder

This hand tool has become indispensable in various fields, especially in construction and metalworking. With its help, labor productivity is increased. The emergence of a large number of different attachments has led to a significant increase in the functionality of the device.

But not all workers who regularly use it in their activities know how to use the grinder correctly. It should be borne in mind that non-observance of the elementary rules of safe handling of an angle grinder is fraught with very dangerous injuries, sometimes fatal. Compliance with the operating instructions will help to avoid this. An important role in injury prevention is that the tool is correct, the correct personal protective equipment is used, and the correct selection of discs for cutting and grinding various materials.

Operations that can be performed using a grinder

The grinder is a multifunctional tool. The drive mechanism in it is an electric motor, which, through a gearbox, transmits movement to a shaft with a replaceable nozzle attached to it. A general view of the device is shown in the photo below.

There are models on the market that differ in power and design:

LBM (Bulgarian) FT-1318

Professional large grinder 230mm Stern AG230B

Powerful devices are powered by a three-phase voltage of 380 V, and household devices are powered by a single-phase 220 V. There are also low-power battery models.

An angle grinder (angle grinder) can do the following main types of work with various materials:

cutting;
grinding;
polishing.

If you fix the grinder motionlessly, then you can sharpen different tools on the circle: cutters, drills, knives, etc.

LBM is designed to work with such materials:

concrete;
metal;
tree;
glass;
ceramic tiles;
stone;
brick;
plastic.

The grinders have become widespread both in everyday life and in industrial conditions. This is due to their wide functionality due to the following factors:

a large selection of different attachments from different materials for performing various operations;
the possibility of fixed fixation using special fasteners;
the presence in some models of additional handles and several high-speed modes of operation.

At the same time, one must constantly remember that only special discs are used for processing each material.

What is the danger of an angle grinder

LBM is a traumatic tool. This is due to the following reasons:

high speed of rotation of the working nozzle - it exceeds 10,000 rpm;
openness (unprotected by a casing) of most of the disc;
the ability to break the abrasive disc into fragments of different sizes, which are then scattered to the sides at a significant speed;
the frequent lack of the ability to properly organize the workplace;
the formation of small particles when cutting metal (or other material) or grinding.

When the disc is jammed, even due to its slight skewing, the grinder is almost impossible to hold in your hands, especially a powerful tool. This is caused by the high speed of rotation of the nozzle. Therefore, beginners are recommended to work with low-power models equipped with discs with a diameter of 115-125 mm. The latter should be free of the slightest defects that could lead to their sudden destruction and pulling angle grinders out of the hands with undefined consequences.

General safety rules

To reduce the possibility of injury when working with a grinder, this tool must be handled correctly. At the same time, it is necessary to observe the following rules of use:

The stated safety measures have been developed by manufacturers of angle grinders, as well as by special organizations (services) involved in labor protection activities.

To ensure the safety of work, it is better to purchase not the cheapest, high-quality materials from reliable manufacturers.

A person working as a grinder must be adequate and in a balanced psychological state.

Protective equipment used

The user must wear the following personal protective equipment when working on an angle grinder:

a protective mask or goggles that cover the eyes from all sides;
gloves made of thick fabric or leather;
special footwear (whole, stable) and work clothes;
a respirator that will provide protection against the penetration of small particles into the respiratory system when cutting concrete, glass or ceramic tiles, brick, porcelain stoneware, foam block, stone and other dusty materials.

To work with a grinder, the use of protective equipment is mandatory. This helps you to work more safely.

How not to work with a grinder

Safety precautions when using angle grinders should be in the first place. According to it, it is prohibited:

make working manipulations without PPE;
works in light clothing that does not completely cover the body (arms, legs);
use a machine that is not equipped with a spark protection cover;
start using it without checking the tool's performance at idle speed;
work with a disc that is defective or unsuitable for the material;
be located in the plane of the cut;
press with force on the tool;
work so that the direction of rotation of the circle is towards the operator;
do the work without taking breaks, because the hands get tired and it is difficult to hold the grinder firmly;
so that the workpiece to be processed is not fixed (for example, in a vice or clamps);
sharpen metal parts with the side part of the disc;
cut workpieces whose thickness exceeds half the radius of the circle used;
finding unauthorized persons in the working area;
touch the attachments until they cool down, because they get very hot during cutting and grinding from friction;
when deepening the circle into the workpiece, turn on the tool;
grind with thin discs;
use nozzles of a larger diameter than the angle grinder is designed for;
position the workpiece so that when cutting, the circle is pinched (the cut should be for a break, and not for squeezing).

Safe use of a saw in a grinder is ensured by the fact that it is replaced only when the device is disconnected from the mains.

Which way can you cut with a grinder

Before you start cutting the material, you should figure out which way the grinder should turn: sparks from yourself or towards yourself. There is no definite answer among users, they work in both ways. If the nozzle rotates counterclockwise, then the sparks (as well as the broken circle) fly in the opposite direction from the operator, but the recoil of the tool during jamming will occur on the user. In the second case, everything happens the other way around. According to safety precautions, it is considered that correct rotation is when sparks fly towards the operator, because when the tool is jammed, the jerk of the tool will be in the opposite direction.

In any case, manufacturers recommend that the movement of the angle grinder and the rotation of its wheel be in the same direction. This greatly reduces the possibility that the disc will come out of the slot during workflow. But with this method, the markings on the material are often hidden by flying sparks.

You can change the rotation of the nozzle by moving the handle and cover to the other side. This is the simplest option (if possible). A more difficult way is to make changes in the electrical circuit of the device. But that doesn't always help.

An important point is to ensure the correct position of the working tool: it is necessary that the cutting line is located to the side of the operator. Then, if the attachment is suddenly jammed, the grinder will be pulled to the side.

When cutting, it is necessary that the work plane does not change, and also there are no distortions. Discs should be used according to the material being processed. So, concrete, tiles, stone are cut using circles of different diameters with diamond dusting.

Nuances of cutting some materials

before work, check for the presence of pipes, fittings, electrical wiring embedded in concrete (with a metal detector or devices for searching for wiring);
to reduce dustiness, the work surface is moistened with water (for example, from a spray bottle or a brush);
periodically cool the cutting element with air or water.

In the absence of a tile cutter, tiles are also cut with a grinder. Experts even cut circles into tiles. Stone with tiles is cut in two ways:

wet (moisten the work area with water);
dry (no moisture).

In the first option, cooling is improved, but dirt remains, and in the second, a lot of dust is emitted. The wet method is used for large volumes of upcoming work, and the dry method is used for one-time cutting.

Any material should be cut smoothly so that the disc is immersed in it with slight pressure, practically only under the action of its own mass of angle grinder. This is to prevent distortion of the disc and reduce the likelihood of jamming. If the process slows down, then it is necessary to replace the nozzle with a new one.

The grinder should be used in accordance with the operating instructions and safety regulations. The working part should rotate in the direction of movement of the tool. Before starting the process, be sure to turn on the device at idle speed. In this case, vibration, heating of the grinder, as well as extraneous sounds from it should be absent. The circles must be used without damage. The most dangerous factor is kickback. To prevent this, it is required to avoid wheel jamming when cutting materials to fracture.

tehnika.expert

What you need to know about the grinder

What you need to know about the grinder 10.09.2012 What you need to know about the grinder Posted on 10.09.2012 in Plumbing tool, Plumbing

The angle grinder, or, as we often used to call it, the grinder, came to us, oddly enough, from Bulgaria in the 1970s.

In general, grinders (or grinders) are a rather broad concept. But I will tell you about the features of working with a grinder from the point of view of a plumber. I will share examples from my experience. And I will say a few words about safety when working with the tool.

Conditionally for myself, I divided the grinders into three types: small, medium and large. (We do not take into account very large ones)

The best combination, in my opinion, is to have a large and a small grinder in operation.

It is very convenient to crawl into narrow places with a small grinder, it is easier and safer (it is easier to hold it). A medium-sized grinder is the very alternative when there is no big one, and you can't cut it with a small one. Well, and the large one is designed for cutting large pipes (it has a large cutting depth). Those. has a disc of a larger diameter and, accordingly, the cut is deeper, which is important when working with large diameters.

So which one to choose? - you ask. Here you can answer the question with a question:

- How often are you going to use it?

Once or twice for household needs or every day (professional need)? If you need a grinder for a one-time job or you buy it just in case, then buy a household one. It is inexpensive, and if you have to work all day, just let it cool down every half hour.

If for household needs you want a more reliable grinder (so as not to overheat), then I recommend taking a small grinder at a price of 3-4 cheap ones. Large cutting machines for household purposes are rarely needed. If you work with pipes, then a small grinder can cut pipes up to a diameter of 50 mm (with a 125 mm disc). When buying inexpensive grinders, you must bear in mind that it will not be able to serve for a long time, because it is made of cheaper materials.

The first thing that usually "flies" in household grinders during intensive use is the gearbox bearings.

10 points to pay attention to when buying a grinder for permanent work

The rotation speed of the disk is on average 6 - 11 thousand revolutions per minute. Some spin faster. When buying a grinder, it would be helpful to understand if you need to adjust the rotational speed of the disc. For example, if you need to grind something that melts or even flammable at high RPM, as I often do, adjusting the speed will come in handy.

2. Power = endurance.

The more powerful the grinder, the more hardy it will be. Professional grinders, as a rule, are much more powerful than household grinders, due to which the tool is easier to work with and takes much longer to overheat.

3. Soft start system.

Many powerful grinders of the more expensive segment are equipped with an electronic system that smoothly starts the disc. Those. the disc does not turn on instantly, but with current limitation and, with an increase in revolutions, the current increases to a maximum. Although this happens quickly and in order to determine whether there is such a system in the grinder, you will need to turn it on. If the grinder does not jump out of hand when turned on, the system works. However, do not confuse the soft start system with a weak grinder. There are grinders themselves are low-power. They start up with a slight jerk and spin up for a few seconds. But it is worth touching the working material with such a grinder, as the turnover drops significantly.

4. Maintaining the speed of rotation.

Some grinders are equipped with a system that allows you to maintain the optimum rotational speed of the disc. Those. when cutting material, the speed of rotation of the disk will not depend on the load, on how hard you press on the grinder. (Naturally, we are talking about pressure within reasonable limits, because it may be unsafe)

5. Turning off the brushes when the power is turned off.

Many professional grinders are equipped with a system for turning off the brushes in the event of a sudden power outage. For example, if the power was turned off during operation, the grinder will not start working when it is turned on. It must be turned off and on again. It so happens that during operation, the power is cut off, and the master, having forgotten to turn off the grinder, goes to look for an open circuit or the reason for the shutdown. If the electricity suddenly turns on, from the moment the master is absent, the grinder with such a system will not turn on and will not start sawing everything around him.

6. Protection against accidental activation.

Most grinders are equipped with a safe power button. To launch such a tool, you need to push the lever forward and only then press the button.

7. Stop when breaking and clamping the disc.

Some sanders have a system that detects a broken disc and shuts down. And such a grinder will turn off if the disc starts to clamp. The machine does not have to be pulled out and the risk of the disc scattering is minimized.

8. Balancing the disk.

Expensive grinders are able to automatically balance the disc. When cutting, very often the disc wears out unevenly. To avoid strong vibrations during operation, the spindle has a clever bearing that balances the uneven disc.

9. Options for attaching handles.

There are machines with a fixed main handle and an additional handle that can be unscrewed. And there are grinders, where this very handle can be screwed in from the other side or from above.

10. Vibration protection.

In expensive versions, the handles are made of vibration-resistant material for more comfortable work. This is important when working with the machine for a long time. In addition to all this, professional grinders are made in a durable and waterproof case, which is important in plumbing.

Safety engineering

Never neglect the safety precautions when working with the grinder. At the end, I will tell you a real case from my practice. But in order.

1. Protective cover.

The protective cover, in the event of a disc rupture, will not allow serious injury, although it does not guarantee 100% safety. And if you look at the photo below, you can clearly see that the presence of a casing does not guarantee one hundred percent protection against sparks. That is why it is also necessary to wear protective goggles, and preferably a mask.

2. Safety glasses.

Goggles or a mask - always when working with the tool. If there is no mask, then the glasses should fit snugly to the face. The glasses are of a closed type.

3. Special. clothes.

Clothing should protect against flying sparks. Even if it is very hot, it is worth putting on overalls while working. Clothes should not be made of "plastic", otherwise they may melt or even catch fire. All buttons are buttoned, nothing hangs or dangles from the clothes. Because this is unsafe, especially when working with large grinders.

4. Gloves.

When working with a grinder, I recommend using extremely thick gloves. Use gloves at number 1 if there is nothing else. Better than barehanded. Number 2 is generally welding gloves, but I use them because they cover my hands almost to the elbows. These are not cheap, so I recommend using ordinary, but thick gloves:

5. Protection against noise.

Many people don't care, of course, but I always use headphones when working. All these grinders are painfully noisy.

6. Dust protection

For prolonged work with the grinder, be sure to use a respirator. You can ordinary

Or use a half mask with a charcoal filter

7. Fastening and holding.

Any element that you do not saw must be fixed and immovable. This is either a vise, or a second assistant who will hold the cut pipe with an adjustable wrench. The ideal cut, in my opinion, is a cut on the floor or on the ground. Hold the grinder firmly and confidently.

Before cutting, see where the sparks are going to fly. You need to stand so that the sparks do not fly to your feet.

The grinder should not be pressed hard. Saw material with the tool's own weight. With great effort, you risk breaking the disc.

Do not cut at an angle - the blade may break. Never cut with a grinder in an awkward position with an unstable stand. When cutting up standing pipes, such as risers, ask your partner to keep the pipe from falling.

Provide a disk clamp and timely shutdown, if the machine is inexpensive.

The grinder must be held in such a way that if the disc is jammed it will not be pulled out of your hands. Keep it strictly vertical to the pipe / fitting. Do not skew.

Remove anything flammable. Although the sparks are not as hot as when a large current is closed, there are so many of them that even overalls can burn out. When cutting, be sure to protect wallpaper, tiles, toilets and sinks. Black spots remain on ceramic surfaces that may not be removed. The surface will be damaged. Ideally, cover with a large, dense and wet cloth. You can use cardboard boxes, but this is a flammable option.

8. Disks.

Always make sure that the disc is installed correctly. Cutting discs are thin. Thick - for grinding. Do not tempt fate and try to gently grind surfaces with a cutting disc.

If you do not neglect these simple safety rules and use high-quality discs, then they will not break and fly in all directions. I did not insert photos from the Internet, which happens when TB is not observed when working with a grinder. Look for yourself.

Yet

By the way, in addition to the grinders we are used to, there are battery-powered machines, which is sometimes very useful.

Almost every brand that produces power tools has such machines. Enjoy your work and enjoy it!

p.s. And finally,

the promised story from my practice

Once, when I just got a job as a plumber (that is, I was a green beginner), I always wore glasses and headphones before working with a grinder. All the seasoned colleagues made fun of me and laughed at me, they say, you just saw off nothing there, and you, as a tanker, dress up. But I didn't care. I just didn't pay attention. The jokes continued until Petrovich undertook to "quickly" saw off the pipe. Without glasses, of course. Instead, he narrowed his eyes “professionally”. But you can see the metal shavings that dug into the eyeball just did not know that the squint was professional. As a result, a person is standing, holding his eye with his hands so as not to blink, otherwise the shavings sticking out of the eyeball will cut the eyelid. What to do? Call an ambulance? For a long time, and not the fact that he will go. Crawling into a person's eye with dirty hands is also a bad decision. And then I remember that a few days ago, I was taking apart the hard drive. And there was a very powerful magnet, which I threw into the pocket of the very pants that were now on me. I suggested trying it. In the next second, the shavings were removed from the eye. And, thank God, everything worked out.

And there were cases and the disks flew ... of course, glasses will not help, but this is also the result of non-compliance with TB. I did not twist it, I tilted it while cutting, etc. There were two people standing in the toilet, one was sawing. The disc fell off, 3 ricochets against the walls, cut off a piece of the toilet bowl on the fly ... but by some miracle did not hurt anyone. Lucky. So be careful and careful! Don't flout the rules.

dretun.ru

How to cut with a grinder correctly

The grinder is a fairly popular tool used both in everyday life and in industry. However, all activities associated with the use of this device are associated with a certain risk to life and require clear knowledge, skills and abilities from a working person.

The simplicity of the external design and financial affordability made this device widespread, both among craftsmen and among the layman.

Types of grinders

It should be noted that the Bulgarians, as such, do not have a gradation per species. They can simply be classified according to their power characteristics and, accordingly, according to the diameter of the cutting disc used in the work.

Conditional classification by power indicator:

Up to 900 W - household machines;

From 900 to 1500 W - semi-professional;

More than 1500 W - professional.

In accordance with the power characteristics of the grinder, certain diameters of the cutting discs should be used. It is logical that for the most powerful grinders, discs of the maximum radius are suitable. And, conversely, for low-power grinders, the smallest disc diameter should be selected.

How to make the right choice

If we talk about the home use of the grinder, then it should be noted that in the process of performing a certain type of work, a different tool may be required. As a rule, it comes down to size. There are places that an industrial grinder simply cannot crawl into, for example, under a bathroom, in corners, etc. In this case, a mini grinder is simply not replaceable. And for performing grinding work, it is definitely more convenient and easier to use a light, small-sized tool.

From this we can draw the following conclusion: if a grinder is bought for work of medium intensity, as well as taking into account a possible increase in the volume of work performed, it will be rational to purchase a solid semi-professional tool. But the ideal option would be to jointly purchase a worthy sample in the middle price category from 4000 to 10000 thousand rubles and the least expensive and powerful sample (mini grinders for work in hard-to-reach places).

Using the grinder

When using a grinder, especially powerful samples, it should be remembered that this equipment allows you to cut metal and all this happens at very high speeds of the cutting element. Therefore, all necessary protection during labor (mainly for the eyes and hands) must be dressed and used. It is necessary to take into account the possibility of deformation and crumbling of the disk, as well as the further departure of its parts into the worker.

When starting work on cutting any metal product, be it fittings, an angle, a pipe or something else, it should be remembered that the possibility of clamping the disc between the two sides of the material being cut is possible. This situation can threaten with an instant rebound of the entire device towards the worker. In order to exclude traumatic effects, the material to be cut should be positioned in such a way that the possibility of jamming of the cutting element is excluded, and the body of the working person is located a little further from the direction of the cut.

Also, do not use those disc diameters that, according to technical data, cannot be used on this grinder. Working without a protective cover can lead to additional injuries.

The application of all these simple rules, in reality, can save a person's life and prevent the loss of limbs.

kakpravilino.com

How to work with a grinder?

So, you bought a suitable grinder and wheels for it. There is no work experience, the tool is dangerous and it is scary to approach it. But you have to work. What to do? First of all, you need to take care of the means of protection. As a minimum, you should protect your face and hands. A visor mask is convenient in that it protects the lower part of the face, but it fogs up with a deep breath. Glasses do not have this drawback, but the nose and mouth remain open to sparks, so it is advisable to use a respirator with the glasses.

Remedies

You should pay attention to the quality of fastening the mask to the straps - usually this fastening consists of screws with plastic thumbs, which must be tightened as tightly as possible. It is very uncomfortable when the mask dangles and falls off when bending forward.

The visor mask can be made of plexiglass or polycarbonate. The second option is preferable, because polycarbonate is much stronger than plexiglass. A fragment of the scattered disk will pierce the plexiglass immediately, and the polycarbonate, although it will be broken, will delay the fragment of the disk. It is difficult to say whether the damaged mask will withstand the repeated hit of the shrapnel. Better not to tempt fate and buy a new remedy.

It should be borne in mind that full protection cannot be achieved with either a face shield or glasses. Sometimes the sparks fly along a completely incomprehensible trajectory and fly under the mask, and sometimes, oddly enough, under the glasses (probably, the sparks fall into small gaps that form between the frame and the body surface during movement). Another feature of cheap plastic masks and glasses is vulnerability to sparks: as soon as you catch a sheaf of sparks, the plastic becomes dull.

It makes sense to purchase a transparent head protection or even a welding helmet. There are closed masks with a breathing filter, which is a labyrinth of bulkheads (a fragment, having got there, spends all its inertia on ricochets between the walls).

A gas mask protects the head in the best way. Old-style army gas masks protect the eyes with glass eyepieces that are not afraid of sparks, but the field of view is too small for comfortable work. Much more convenient are modern gas masks with a panoramic mask. Unfortunately, such protection is not cheap.

Gloves as a means of protection

Gloves should be sized appropriately so that there is no empty space at the fingertips. If the hand is close to the disc and the dangling tip catches on the rotating disc, you risk missing the moment when it is not too late to remove your hand, and the smaller the grinder, the more urgent this problem. If the glove fits perfectly on your hand, the maximum that you are in danger is to cut yourself on the edge of the rotating disc.

A glove will not save you from a cut, but it will minimize damage. Gloves are also useful because when working with sheet metal, the edges of the cut are razor-sharp, and careless touching the cut without gloves can cause a deep cut. The metal heats up from friction, and you can burn yourself on the workpiece just cut if you do not use gloves. Clothing should not hinder movement, but nothing should hang down. The angle grinder will tighten the laces, ties, belt ends or wide sleeves so quickly that you will not have time to understand anything. The problem is that, by tightening the clothes, the tool gets close to the body, and it is not at all a fact that by this moment you will have time to turn off the motor.

Long hair should be tied up in a bun or ponytail. Regular clothing can catch fire when exposed to sparks, so it is recommended to wear a tight apron for locksmith work or a special overalls impregnated with a flame retardant compound over clothing.

In general, when working with a dangerous tool of protection, there is never enough. The above-described complex of protective equipment can be supplemented with shoes with a metal toe cap to protect the feet from the ingress of disc fragments. You can build a real iron chain mail, using the experience of reenactors of historical battles. Chain mail protects well from large fragments, but it will let sparks through. The same goes for metal mesh masks.

Anyone who spends a lot of time with a grinder in their hands day in and day out will find soundproof headphones or earplugs useful. After many hours of work, ringing in the ears will last for several days, and performing such work constantly, without resorting to ear protection, can easily spoil your hearing.

Working with a grinder

The "Bulgarian" itself is provided with minimal protection. Actually, she has only one means of protection: a casing installed on the gearbox and covering half of the disk. This casing should be turned in such a way as to protect the master from sparks and fragments of the disk when it breaks. An additional handle is placed over this guard to prevent hand contact with the cutting edge. It is technically possible to install the handle on the opposite side of the casing, but then the hand will be dangerously close to the working area, which is fraught with serious injury.

Correct installation of the equipment is of great importance. Different craftsmen put abrasive discs in different ways: some - with a label to the gearbox, others - with a label facing out. For beginners, the question often arises, which installation option is correct? Meanwhile, due to the absence of teeth, the direction of movement of the edge does not matter. There is, however, one caveat. The bore of the abrasive discs is framed by a metal ring, which, according to the manufacturer, should take on part of the load when the flange is self-clamping. Usually the disc is placed so that this ring is under the flange.

How to avoid self-tightening of the flange?

Self-tightening of the flange is possible when the disc is jammed, when the disc and the flange lapped to it stop, but the spindle continues to rotate. Self-tightening also happens during a sharp start, when the flange and disc remain in place by inertia, and the spindle jerks. Sometimes the flange is tightened in such a way that attempts to release the mount lead to breakage of the open-end wrench, the locking button (it is plastic and therefore very fragile) and even the gear case.

Self-tightening can be avoided by placing a washer under the flange. You can find a suitable sized metal washer, or you can cut it out of plastic, cardboard, or even paper. A very good solution would be a rubber washer: with a pulling jerk, it stretches, and after the voltage drops, it returns to its previous position.

Naturally, when using proprietary mechanical superflanges (BOSH, Makita), the problem of self-clamping ceases to be relevant. True, new problems appear - for example, if you forget to press the folding bracket, you run the risk of snagging the workpiece or workbench with it, which will lead to irreparable damage to the quick-clamping mechanism.

Perhaps it makes sense to buy a primitive nut with a movable washer, which is tightened with an ordinary wrench. Having a minimum of structural elements, such a nut has high reliability and is quite cheap, and most importantly, it solves the problem of self-tightening no worse than overseas miracle mechanisms.

Working with a small angle grinder, not equipped with an automatic soft starter, the flange can be tightened by hand, and not with a key, because during the starting jerk it will tighten itself quite well. It is imperative to screw the flange with a wrench for a soft start. On large angle grinders, the nut should be tightened tightly with a wrench, even if the machine is not equipped with a soft start.

The choice of equipment deserves special attention. Cut-off wheels, which are very popular today, used for cutting metal, consist of an abrasive reinforced with fiberglass mesh.

Cutting materials with a grinder

In principle, it is possible to sharpen the workpiece with the surface of the disk, but it is not worth it: the mesh is too close to the surface, and if it is damaged, the disk will lose its strength. You need to sharpen either with the edge of a cutting disc, or with special grinding discs, or with a sharpening stone on a grinder, putting the grinder aside (in general, think as often as possible whether the planned work should really be done with a grinder).

For cutting stone, brick, concrete and tiles, there are special diamond-coated cutting discs with cooling slots along the edge. It is recommended to cut these materials at low speeds.

What can be cut with a grinder?

Many look at the "grinder" with hope when it becomes necessary to cut wood, plywood, chipboard or plastic. The angle grinder is too fast to do this kind of work, so the cut-off wheels melt and spray plastic, and burn plywood and wood. And here many craftsmen are tempted to install a circular saw blade ... The devil is in the details. The dimensions of the saw blades are slightly larger than for angle grinders, but this "slightly" is quite enough to prevent the installation of a protective casing.

It would seem that this is the first sign that you need to abandon the venture, but the master who succumbed to the temptation usually does not stop and removes the cover to put the saw blade. And it is much heavier than abrasive! With its weight, it is not designed for a speed of 11000 (or even 7000) rpm. The result of going beyond the documented capabilities is vibration, which is felt even on weak angle grinders. A strong machine (for a 230 mm blade) with a saw blade is almost impossible to hold in your hands because of the violent vibration, and the gyroscopic effect does not allow you to change the position of the tool in space. Craftsmen who have once worked as big grinders with a saw blade tell about thrills that cannot be forgotten.

When the saw blade is jammed

When the saw blade gets jammed, the kickback will not only be strong, but incredibly fast, and you may simply not have time to react. When using a lightweight and relatively fragile abrasive disc, the pullback force is limited by its strength. A car with a steel disk accelerated to the limit will be ripped out of the hands with a quick and powerful blow, and the trajectory along which it will fly is difficult to predict. Tears and steel discs also occur; as the masters joke gloomily, who has seen the rupture of such a disc will never tell about it.

Recently, saw blades began to appear on the market, with a bore diameter and an outer diameter suitable for angle grinders. Imagine: you are holding a steel disc with victorious solders (or with a chain on a chainsaw) in your hands. It's heavy - probably steel; there are circular stripes on the surface - the disc is probably calibrated; packed in a nice cardboard envelope, inside a cellophane bag, even a soft plastic sponge is put on the teeth. On the package (and the disc itself) its parameters and purpose are described in the purest Russian language, the company logo and even the site address are printed ... And when you visit the site, it turns out that the company does not produce anything, but only exports consumables from China.

In what basement, on what equipment and from what materials the disc is made, one can only guess. And the solders seem to be similar to the victorious ones, and they seem to hold up perfectly, but only no one guarantees the reliability of welding, and it is not known how quickly they will begin to fly off.

Carefully! Do not put the saw blade into the grinder

It is necessary to remember firmly: the "grinder" is not designed for the use of a toothed disk, even if it fits in diameter. The steel disc is too heavy for this speed, and the angle grinder is too sensitive to tilt and distortion. Yes, at first the nameless discs do not fly to pieces, they cut instantly and give a perfectly even cut, but if the soldering suddenly flies off or the steel breaks, turning out to be only an alloy similar to steel, there will be no one to answer: the manufacturer is unknown.

Manufacturers of saw blades for wood for bulgar

Not a single eminent brand produces saw blades for angle grinders. Unlike unnamed Chinese basements, seeking only to cover demand and earn money, well-known manufacturers value their reputation. Having shown such blatant incompetence, the company would have to pay not only with money, but also with an irrevocable loss of name, therefore, respectable gentlemen do not produce consumables that violate safety requirements. You cannot use saw blades on angle grinders - period.

Nevertheless, well-known manufacturers are making legal attempts to make angle grinders more universal. For example, the BOSH company produces a universal cutting disc Multi Wheell 2 608 623 013. It is a carbide abrasive (not a saw, mind you) disc with cooling slots, due to which the heating of the material is noticeably reduced. There are no protruding elements in the slots. Compared to the "toothy" nouns from China, such a disc gives a slightly shaggy cut, but no more dangerous than a regular abrasive disc. It perfectly cuts metal, plastic, wood, plywood and chipboard. He doesn't even stumble over nails - he grinds them down like a regular cut-off wheel.

Grinding discs for bulgar

Grinding cups usually extend beyond the casing, while others require it to be removed altogether. In this case, body protection plays a decisive role - a mask, respirator, robe and gloves. If abrasive discs break into pieces, then wire grinding cups throw thin wires in all directions, which dig deep into the body (they are especially dangerous if they get into the unprotected respiratory tract, mouth, sclera and cornea of the eye).

Alone, they are almost invisible, so they are not always amenable to extraction at home. Meanwhile, the irritation they cause is serious enough to bring the victim to a hospital bed. It follows from this that when using grinding cups, the protection of the machine becomes meaningless, and the body protection, which is necessary anyway, becomes critically important.

So, the safety rules are observed, the grinder is assembled, the equipment is installed. It's time to get ready for work. First of all, you should fix the workpiece well. Some craftsmen, when cutting pipes, simply press them with their foot, and when cutting a brick, they simply lay it on a flat, stable surface. It is extremely undesirable to do this: it is much more convenient to process a well-fixed workpiece, because the hands are freed up for a more reliable grip of the tool, the legs - for a more reliable stand, and the body gets more freedom, which makes work more comfortable and safer. Do not lay the workpiece on two supports and cut in the middle: as it deepens, the workpiece will begin to bend towards the saw and the disc will jam. It is more correct to fix one side of the workpiece, leaving the other with a canopy - in this case, the cut end falls out and the cut only expands, which not only helps to avoid jamming, but also makes the work easier.

How is it more convenient to hold the loudspeaker?

There is no consensus on how it is more convenient to hold the angle grinder. With all the simplicity of the design, the angle grinder allows a variety of grip options, and each master chooses the appropriate grip for himself. The main thing is to remember that the guard must be between the master and the disc, as well as between the disc and the additional handle. No parts of the body should be in the plane of rotation of the disk, more precisely, in the sector where sparks and fragments of the disk fly apart (this rule is easy to follow if a protective casing is installed).

LBM cases are of two types: one-handed (you can hold the body with one hand, the power button is located directly on the body) and two-handed (they have a “tail” with a button in the back; it is convenient to hold the “tail” with one hand, holding the other for an additional handle) ... Usually small and weak "grinders" are made one-handed, while large and strong ones are made two-handed. With a two-handed grip, one hand acts as the primary and the other as the secondary.

There is no consensus on which hand should be assigned which role. Some craftsmen believe that the main hand is the one that holds the body (for one-handed machines), and the secondary hand is the one that holds the additional handle. Others see the main hand holding an additional handle (in their opinion, it guides the tool), while the other hand only supports the body (or "tail" if the "Bulgarian" is two-handed). To understand which position is more comfortable, you need to try to work in different positions.

Three slots for additional handle

Most modern angle grinders have three slots for an additional handle: two on the sides (perpendicular to the spindle) and one on the back of the gearbox (parallel to the spindle). It was said above that you cannot put the handle near the open part of the disc. Thus, two seats remain: at the casing and at the "back of the head". It should be remembered that the hand in a state of pronation (palm down) is very unstable, and the most stable position of the hand is semi-pronation (palm sideways). When preparing the angle grinder for cutting, the handle must be installed perpendicular to the spindle. With the vertical position of the disc, typical for cutting, the handle will stand upright and the hand of the master will take the most stable position - semi-pronation.

All of the above is also true for grinding: when the disc is horizontal, it is better to put the handle on the back of the gearbox so that it stands upright. Since grinding is carried out with the surface of the grinding wheel and the disc is not immersed in the material, this process is not as sensitive to tool distortion as cutting. For this reason, the horizontal position of the handle is perfectly acceptable. Some cheap angle grinders do not even have a rear grip slot. If desired, a bracket can be designed for such a machine, screwed to the side holes and equipped with a handle holder. The staple must be strong enough; it is advisable to take a thick, durable metal for manufacturing. These staples are produced commercially; they are much more convenient than homemade ones, although they are quite expensive.

Where should the sparks be directed?

Many copies have been broken in disputes about where the sparks should be directed: from oneself or towards oneself. This position of the angle grinder is considered the most correct, when sparks fly towards the body of the machine. Considering the direction of rotation of the disk, which is standard for all "grinders", this direction of the sparks assumes that the spindle is directed to the left if you hold the tool from the side, or forward if you hold the tool with the spindle away from you (with your right hand for the additional handle, with your left - for the body). Nevertheless, the gearbox has at least two slots for the handle, and, as already mentioned, it cannot be placed at the open edge of the disc.

This means that tool manufacturers allow the installation of a handle and a casing for working with sparks from oneself (with the left hand for the additional handle, with the right hand for the body). In fact, there is nothing terrible in this direction of sparks, you just need to understand where the fragments of the disk and the machine itself will fly in the event of a reverse impact. It directly depends on the direction of the force vector, and this vector goes from the point of contact in the direction opposite to the direction of rotation of the disk.

You can touch the workpiece in such a way that the return blow will throw the machine right in the face of the master, or otherwise - so that the machine jumps up or goes sideways. It is not difficult to predict the direction of the reverse jerk if you imagine the disc as a wheel capable of pushing off the material and driving. Regardless of the direction of the sparks, you need to hold the car so that when it gets jammed and pulled out of your hands, it either leaves you or drives past you. A good choice of the point of contact between the disc and the material will make it safe to work with sparks from yourself.

How not to overheat?

To avoid overheating the blade after 60 seconds of continuous operation, remove it from the cut for 30 seconds without turning off the machine. Overheating of the disc leads to a decrease in its strength and cauterization of the cut edges. Do not tilt the machine when the rotating disc is in the cut: this creates the risk of jamming, and the cut will turn out to be uneven. When cutting metal, looking into the working area from the side of the spindle (where the disc is not covered by a casing) can only be done with protective goggles.

Abrasive discs grind not only in diameter but also in thickness. When replacing a worn-out disk with the same new one, keep in mind that its thickness is several microns larger. When entering an already started cut, the disc is likely to get stuck, therefore, after replacing the equipment, you need to enter the started cut from the opposite side of the “fork”.

To prevent the discs from wearing out too quickly, when cutting metal, the machine should be driven forward by the gearbox so that the disc goes down onto the material from top to bottom. When the gearbox moves back, the disc goes from bottom to top, and can noticeably grind off already towards the end of the cut, if the cut is long enough.

It should be remembered that during coasting (this is the name of inertial rotation after switching off) the disc is no less dangerous than when the engine is on. Touching the body with a disc that has not yet stopped can result in serious injury. Do not put, and especially throw the angle grinder downwards during coasting. After turning off the motor, you must wait until the spindle stops completely. You can slow down the disc on the material. In order not to spoil the workpiece, a small piece of material can be fixed specifically for this purpose near the workplace.

Cutting with a grinder "grinder"

As a grinder, the grinder cuts by grinding at high speed. You do not need to press on the tool - the cutting should go without effort, pressing will lead to jamming of the equipment. When the disc is immersed in the material, the friction area increases, therefore, when the disc is jammed, the machine will jerk with the whole body, possibly, it will fly somersault; everything will happen very quickly. The disc should be immersed shallowly, only a couple of millimeters, which is easy when cutting thin sheet material.

The friction area will be small enough, moreover, the point of contact will be at the edge of the disc, and if the tool is jammed, the tool will simply leave like a one-wheeled machine. When cutting thick pieces, it is not necessary to immerse the blade deeper than required. In general, it is better not to cut thick workpieces with a "grinder", but to take a more suitable tool for this.

It should be mentioned here that the widespread opinion about the versatility of angle grinders arose due to the cheapness of this tool. In fact, the masters who try to make most of the work "grinder" are wishful thinking in order to save money. The angle grinder is a grinder, and the ability to cut with it is secondary, if not a secondary one.

You should try to use the "grinder" for cutting as little as possible. It is convenient and safe to open long thick boards with a circular saw, it is more convenient to cut trees with a gasoline chain saw, curved cuts of plywood and chipboard are convenient to do with a jigsaw, and for small cuts, recesses, cuts with sharp angles and light grinding, a multifunctional and safe oscilloscope is suitable.

In conclusion, a few general remarks

LBM refers to high-speed tools, and this is precisely its danger. It is especially dangerous to jam the blade when cutting, which should be avoided by all possible means. Those who cut a lot with grinders should remember the rule: angle grinder loves precision! The reason for this capriciousness is that cutting is a side function of angle grinders, and its main purpose is grinding, which does not imply immersion of the disc into the material. There is one more important point. It is necessary to put the disc on the workpiece not before turning on the engine, but after.

It is clear that all the subtleties of the case cannot be told in one article. The more you study the additional material, the better. Particular attention should be paid to safety precautions, carefully study the types of injuries possible when working with angle grinders, and ways to avoid them. There are many videos on the Web where experienced masters and traumatologists talk about this, safety rules are widely discussed on thematic Internet forums. If you have experienced locksmiths among your friends, it is better to talk to them in person and take a few lessons in the workshop.

The most important thing is to clearly imagine at every moment what will happen in a moment. The master must completely control the situation, understand well how the instrument works, what can and cannot happen, and always know exactly what he is doing and where it will lead. The relaxed carelessness of a modern person, acceptable when working at a computer, can play a cruel joke when working with a dangerous tool. The master must think on the fly, naturally and quickly, like a soldier on the battlefield.

Periodically, it becomes necessary to measure the length of a curved line. For example, when working with a pipe bender, or when making decorative elements ("curls") for cold forging, the material must be cut to a certain length to make a part. And how to find out this length?))) So you have to figure it out, cut it off with a margin, and then, after manufacturing, cut it off and throw away the excess ... So the idea arose to acquire a curvimeter.

The network has a lot of descriptions of the simplest such device, which does not even have any scale. The essence of its work is that the impeller does not rotate freely on the axis, but is screwed onto the axis by means of a thread. The wizard turns the wheel until it stops, and then rolls it along a curved line on the sketch of the part. In this case, the wheel is turned off along the thread by a certain number of revolutions. It is enough to turn the device over and roll the wheel all the way along the ruler or tape measure - at the point at which it will turn all the way back and you need to read the readings. This will be the length of our curved line.

Here is such a curvimeter and I decided to assemble ... I decided, I decided, but all my hands did not reach ... And so, being at my construction site, I decided to make a garden bench from the remnants of building materials. I drew a sketch ... And again, before using the pipe bender, it would be good for me to know the length of the section of the profile pipe, so as not to cut off the excess ... I thought ... Yes, and I decided to assemble the curvimeter first ... Construction is, of course, not a workshop , but everything you need was there ... Yes, and the device is primitive - you can assemble it "on your knee".)))))

So what I needed:

1. Retaining nut from angle grinder.
2. The handle from it is the same.
3. Cutting the M14 stud.
4. Nut М14 (2 pcs.)
5. Cutting a metal strip 25 x 4 mm.

I have long decided to use a nut from a "grinder" as an impeller - this is a ready-made wheel with a thread inside! I also decided to take the handle "Bulgarian" - it makes no sense to "handle" something yourself, if there are ready-made solutions! Besides, I have enough of this stuff - in the workshop there is a box with the remains of a power tool! Periodically, these remnants act as "donors", only now .... Nuts and handles do not break (in angle grinders, usually, the rotor and gearbox fail), so a lot of them have accumulated. So, "from a black sheep - even a tuft of wool!")))))

But this box is in the workshop. I am at a construction site ... And therefore, without further ado, I disassembled one of my grinders!

Then I will complete it! Fortunately, the elements are the same standard !!!
So, there is a wheel!

As you know, on the spindles of all grinders, the thread is the same - M14. Therefore, it is necessary to use a stud with such a thread as an axis. I used such a pin in the manufacture of the carriage and vice of my cutting machine, so I had trims.

For the manufacture of the bracket in which the axle-hairpin will be mounted, I used a 25 mm strip, the cut of which I found in my "scrap metal".

I cut off about 20 cm, and bent it, leaving the middle part about 6 cm long. (I proceeded from the length of the hairpin. It would be good to do it in a vice, but the vice remained in the workshop ... And therefore I slightly sawed it with a grinder and bent it with a hammer, using a sledgehammer as an anvil ... (So what! ... But "now", not "later" ...))). The result is such a bracket:

Marking three centimeters from the "back", I drilled 14 mm holes in each of the "horns" using a drill and a step drill:

On the "back" I drilled a hole with a diameter of 8 mm for attaching the handle (All handles of small "grinders" have an M8 screw. The only exception is Bosch grinders, the handles of which have an M10 thread).

I worked with the same stepped drill. (A handy thing, I'll tell you ... And you can drill a huge diameter with a household drill, and you won't break, no matter how hard you try!)))). True, there are drawbacks - the material is not thicker than 5mm, and difficulties in sharpening ...

Everything. You can start assembling.
Initially, I thought to just weld the stud to the bracket. To "drip" from both sides, and that's all ... But, during the assembly process, I noticed that my curvimeter travels a path for a full stroke, a little more than three meters. (By chance it turned out so "round"))). Therefore, I decided to secure the stud in the bracket with nuts. Then the full stroke length can be adjusted exactly! It is unlikely that I will ever measure something longer than 3m, but .... what if ?!))). Let this option be there - you roll it all the way, turn it over, and roll it on, knowing that you turned it over exactly three meters away.

On each side, it was necessary to screw on two nuts - one inside the bracket, and the other clamped outside ...
The design turned out to be very cumbersome (M14 nuts are not very small))). And I decided to just cut two nuts in half. (I don't know which influenced more - the cumbersome structure, or the fact that I had only three in stock ... One was missing!))))

Since, as I already said, I didn't have a vice either, I decided to use a hairpin. I screwed on the nut a little, a couple of turns and locked it with the second one. Then he marked it in half, using the eye as a caliper, and the nail as a planer)))):

And he sawed it in half, holding a hairpin with nuts with one hand, and a grinder with the other. Sorry, I didn't have a third hand for the camera)))):

Everything!!! The curvimeter is ready;

The wizard will show you a selection of interesting ideas for using the grinder, which will help expand the functionality of the tool and make it more convenient. See a selection of 5 options and choose what you can do based on your experience.

1. The screen shows a chain saw. This is not a factory production. Such a homemade product has two clamps - horizontal and vertical. Thanks to the duet of clamps, no part will jump out of place - be it a corner or a pipe. In addition, there is a movable stop for serial cutting of parts of a certain length. An excellent device that is easy to assemble by hand.
2. The grinder may not be visually beautiful, but no one demanded it from him. The idea is in reliability and practicality. The most interesting thing is that a welding machine was not used to make homemade products. In other words, not a single part is welded. Everything is tightened on bolts, which facilitates assembly of the structure.

3. From the old table, you can make a home mini sawmill. Attention! An excerpt from this video shows an unfinished machine or a protective cover removed from it. Questions, besides this and others, are for gloves. See safety when working on a sawmill.
Using the power regulator, you can change the speed of this homemade product. The grinder is mounted under the table in three places. Thereby eliminating any vibration of the disc. But note that this is just an idea, not a ready-made unit. When making such a homemade product, take care first of all about safety. It is imperative to close the unused part of the disk. For convenience, expand the table and install the guides.

3. A modest option for cutting molded products. This homemade product with the presence of guides can cut metal at 90 degrees, 45 degrees. The guides themselves are removable. This makes it easy to transport and store the saw. In this homemade product, two options for returning the cutting disc to its original position are used simultaneously. This is a counterweight in the form of a dumbbell and spring. You can only use one of them to choose from.

4. There is another idea - to make a milling machine from a grinder. On it, you can not only cut off, but also make selections. You will not cut the metal with a milling cutter, but with a milling disc. The grinder is attached simply. She twists her handle through the corner that runs along the table. If the option seems simple, then you can develop the idea and come up with something of your own.

5. If you sawed large-diameter pipes, you faced the problem of sawing metal in one dive, since the angle grinder always interferes with doing this. Homemade products will help solve the problem. In addition to the bench saw or the pendulum saw, the furniture roller bed helps to support and fix the pipe. At the same time, making a small cut thanks to the rollers, it is easy to twist and cut off along the entire diameter.

zen.yandex.ru
Craftsmen make various devices from angle grinders that expand the functionality of the grinder and simplify the work.
And making them is not difficult at all.

Stand for grinder

Useful when you need to make many different sections.
The easiest option is to weld two guides from a rectangular pipe to the metal base.
From the same pipe, make a handle to which to fix the grinder. On the base, you can make a guide from a corner for cutting workpieces at a certain angle.

Photo: AVTO CLASS (youtube.com) Some craftsmen make such racks from bars and plywood. The design is simple and reliable.

Grinding device

Can be used for removing rust, removing paint from walls, polishing, etc.
The advantage of this homemade product is that the surface is always processed at the same angle and with the same effort, without leaving depressions in the dents.

A circular saw

A simple device for even cutting wood and sheet metal.
For wood, use specialized saw blades with three teeth (do not install blades from a conventional circular saw).

Compass for cutting circles

It is made of a metal plate and a pin that is attached to the hole in the center of the circle.

Belt grinder

The movement of the tape is given by a wooden cylinder, inside which a nut is glued for installation on the grinder shaft.
The device itself consists of two square pipes of different sizes. A spring is inserted inside the larger pipe, with the help of which the belt is tensioned.

Grinder

The grinder is attached to the wooden base with a bolt, the rear part is installed in a bar mount, additionally it can be secured with a clamp. Used for sharpening tools and sanding various surfaces.

What can be made from a grinder: 14 homemade products

zen.yandex.ru
There are crazy ideas for a grinder like using it as a lawn mower. You can also use it to build a quadcopter, ride a bike, pump water, and many more useless but extremely fun activities. We will consider those options for using the grinder that are really useful and sometimes help get out of the situation with a lack of specialized power tools.
1. It happens that you need to cut off the sheet of iron exactly. With the help of this device, this is easy to do, aligning with the ruler.

2. Not always have a sharpener on hand for refueling drills. But with the help of a grinder, this can also be done.

3. Now let's move on to cutting wood. In a hurry, you can make a simple device out of wood that turns the grinder into a kind of circular saw.

4. More capital device - metal. More like a real circular saw.

5. This is a wall chaser. "Russian Technician" has a separate one with drawings about him.

6. With a special cutter, you can do wood carving.

7. And you can attach a chisel for wood carving.

8. For the processing of metal surfaces, there is also a special device with a felt roller.

9. The drill chuck for the grinder is original. You can install not only a drill, but also a large number of different attachments.

10. Only an extreme can decide on this. Don't try this again.

11. At the speed at which the grinder is working, you run the risk of sharpening the knife by half at one moment.

12. And with such a device it is easy to polish metal railings.

13. Perhaps this device is intended for sharpening something. In any case, there are doubts about the performance of this mechanism. It is highly doubtful that the tape will not slip on the shafts.

14. Looks beautiful, but also raises big doubts about the performance, functionality and more or less acceptable resource.

Sometimes, when performing repair or construction work, a situation arises when the equipment fails, and it is not possible to buy a new one or repair it. In this case, the master needs to know how to make the necessary tool from the available tools at low cost. In this article, we will look at what you can make a grinder with your own hands.

In case of failure of an angle grinder (angle grinder or grinder), it can be made from a drill. Please note that there are several ways to convert one instrument to another. The least costly and not so laborious will be the use of a special device - an adapter.

The adapter is an adapter that is made in the form of a stock... On the one hand, it can be clamped into the drill chuck, and on the other side, the cutting disc is fixed with washers.

If it is not possible to buy an adapter, you can disassemble the faulty angle grinder with your own hands and dismantle the spindle.

You can also buy it at a repair shop or grind the adapter on a lathe from a familiar turner. By clamping the adapter in the drill chuck, we get a workable angle grinder.

TO design flaws can be attributed to the fact that such a "grinder" can only be used with strict observance of safety measures. She can cut metal no thicker than 5 mm. In addition, since the drill's shaft speed is much lower than that of the angle grinder (3,000 versus 11,000 rpm), the metal processing efficiency in this case is much lower.

TO merits such modernization can be attributed to:

fast conversion of one device to another;
use of the tool in places inaccessible to factory-made angle grinders.

When using a drill as a cutting device, it must be borne in mind that the drill shaft rotates in both directions. Therefore, when cutting metal or other work, it is necessary to observe the direction of rotation. The cutting blade should only rotate clockwise.

There is another way to rework. But it is more expensive, for its implementation they acquire a special nozzle, which has a reducer... The native gearbox is dismantled on the drill, and a nozzle is installed in its place. As a result, a good grinder from a drill is obtained - almost a complete analogue of a faulty tool.

However, the cost of such a nozzle is quite high, and modernization takes a long time. Therefore, it is better to immediately purchase an inexpensive angle grinder.

All the options presented are intended only for an emergency solution to the problem. If you later need to use the drill for its intended purpose, you will have to spend a lot of time on its restoration.

Converting a chainsaw into an angle grinder

Sometimes it becomes necessary to cut a pipe or profiled sheet in a place where there is no electricity. For this, a grinder from a chainsaw is used, which is easily converted using purchased prefix.

It consists of:

drive pulley or drum;
protective casing;
belt drive and a set of keys and studs.

To install this device on a chainsaw, you must:

dismantle the tire with the chain;
empty the oil tank and remove the clutch drum;
mount the pulley of the device on the drive shaft of the drive sprocket;
fasten the protective device and install the belt drive;
put on the cutting disc - and the mechanism is ready for work.

The main advantage of the design is that it can be used in places where there is no electricity. When working with such a machine, you must be extremely careful, since the chainsaw has a higher torque than a standard angle grinder. In this case, the risk of breaking the cutting disc increases.

If you do not have a drill or chainsaw at hand, and you need to cut materials, you can make a grinder from a screwdriver. The algorithm for its modernization is practically the same as in the manufacture of angle grinders from a drill. The main structural element will be the acquired nozzle - adapter or the spindle of a faulty angle grinder.

TO merits such a power tool can be attributed to the rapid transformation of the mechanism and the ability to use it away from the electrical network. Homemade products can be used in confined spaces, where a standard angle grinder is not suitable due to its large size.

The main disadvantages homemade device can be called:

low battery life (when using a cordless screwdriver);
low rotation speed of the cutting disc - about 700 rpm;
insufficient power of the electrical device.

This mechanism can only be used as a low-power angle grinder. It can be used to cut metal no more than 1.5 mm thick or a 20 * 20 corner. They can cut reinforcement with a diameter of less than 8 mm. Using a screwdriver as a full-fledged cutting tool will not work.

Mini grinder from improvised means

Such a device is suitable for those who is modeling- they often have to cut parts made of hard materials. It is not possible to use standard angle grinders in this case: very small elements must be cut. For such work, you need to make a mini-grinder. It is made from a small electric motor. It could be from a faulty VCR, printer, or child's toy. Such a device is powered by a cell phone charger, USB input, rechargeable battery or multiple batteries.

The hardest part is making it yourself cutting element... The disc is made from the thinnest cut-off wheel. The diameter is chosen independently, according to the conditions of use.

Sometimes the cutting wheel is made from ordinary beverage cork.

The manufacture of the device begins with processing the handle - the engine is attached to it. A collet clamp is mounted on the axle. Take the prepared circle, fix it with washers on the M6 screw. It turns out a kind of nozzle, which is fastened with a collet clamp.

The tool is now ready for use. The motor mechanism can be used without a handle if you want to trim parts inside the model.

How to make a device, you can watch in this video:

Everyone who wants to make a device should know that a homemade grinder does not answer safety requirements... If there is no urgent need, it is better not to risk your health, and sometimes your life.