How to make a wall lamp yourself. How to make a lampshade (plafond) at home

Lighting devices can not only dispel darkness, but also give an unusual aura to your interior.

There are many different ideas with which you can make a wall lamp or any other type of lamp with your own hands.

You yourself are able to create a masterpiece that cannot be found in any store.

Creating an extravagant chandelier

A very original item is obtained from the simplest materials, most of which can be saved after a picnic. Lamps from various containers will look spectacular.

To do this, you will need:

• oval plastic bottle with a capacity of 5 liters;
• disposable spoons;
• cable with socket and plug;
• low power LED lamp;
• pliers;
• glue gun;
• screwdriver;
• stationery knife.

To avoid fire, use only LED bulb!

Using a knife, carefully cut the bottom of the bottle, then remove the handles from all plastic spoons. Apply a small amount of hot glue from a gun to the cut site, glue them from the bottom of the container.

You will need approximately seventeen pieces approximately. Place the next and other rows in a chessboard order.

In order to hide the neck of the bottle, put ten to twelve spoons without a handle on the glue so that they form a ring.

Pull the socket with the lamp and cable through the hole on the bottom of the bottle.

If there is no desire to make this part with your own hands, there is an opportunity to purchase it in any department of household goods - the wire, socket and plug are already connected together.

In the lid, make a hole for the cord by drilling it with a drill or a hot self-tapping screw. Screw on the lid, put on the previously prepared spoon ring on top. The exclusive LED luminaire is ready for use.

A few ideas for creating lampshades

It is enough just to create a lamp from scrap materials for home or summer cottage.

Idea N1

• any hollow dish (this can be an old saucepan or flower pot);
• wire;
• polyurethane foam and gloves;
• paint and brush;
• sharp knife;
• pliers.

Place the object taken as a base upside down. Wind the wire around the product the way you want the lampshade to be, since all the turns copy its shape. Put on gloves and squeeze the foam out a little on the frame so that it completely covers the wire, leave to dry.

Then, using a knife, give the contours more evenness and paint in any color. This option will be the best for a street lamp.

Idea N2 - classic

• thick wire;
• pliers;
• a small bottle of water.

Note!

To make the top center piece, wind a coil of wire onto the bottle, then remove it and cut off the excess. The ends must be fixed so that they form a ring, the diameter of which should allow the cartridge to be threaded at the bottom, and not to let it come out at the top.

Next, you need to make a large outer ring from the wire. To secure it, you need four equal pieces of wire. Connect one edge of each with a small one, and the other with a large ring. The upper part of the lamp is ready.

The bottom circle of wire will be the largest, it must be attached to the second top one, evenly placing five identical pieces of wire.

To decorate the frame, pass the wire through the second upper ring, giving it a wavy shape, wind it onto the base. Design the bottom ring in the same way.

Note!

On a walk in the forest, take an interesting branch with you, an excellent wood lamp will come out of it. Wash the branch and peel off the bark with a knife, cover with wood varnish. For good stability, screw the lamp to a heavy stand with self-tapping screws, it can also serve as a tree.

A better option is an oak tree, find a broken branch and saw off a circle at least five centimeters thick from it. Cover it with varnish or paint it too.

Making a lampshade with children

There is an option for making a lampshade with children. For the frame, you will need a canister or bottle with a capacity of five liters. You need to roll the paper strips into a tube, it is best to wind them around a pencil or sushi stick, then glue the remaining edge with glue.

These blanks must be glued to the frame in several layers so that there are no gaps. Once the glue is dry, you can slide the lampshade over a table lamp or make a ceiling lamp that looks very unusual.

Experienced needlewomen can knit or crochet a lampshade, decorating it with knitted flowers, ribbons.

To give the product the correct shape, you can use a starch solution or ordinary PVA glue. Look at the proposed photos of knitted lamps, how much tenderness and comfort they have!

Note!

This article told you how to make a DIY lamp. Using the information received and your own imagination, now you can create an exclusive lighting fixture for any room.

DIY lamp photo

In modern interior design, where things and colors are correctly selected, correctly installed lighting predominates. Thanks to lighting devices, it is possible to highlight different areas of the premises, visually expand or reduce the space, while giving coziness and comfort in the living room or bedroom. Of course, you can buy a lamp or create a sconce with your own hands from improvised means. The last option is economical while allowing you to make the structure at your discretion.

Fashion does not stand still, but moves in a circle, so now crystal sconces are no longer so popular, and wooden lamps are considered a sign of luxury. Not everyone knows that in the 16th century wooden structures were installed in palaces and churches. As you can imagine, there was no electricity at that time, so candles were played as a lighting element, which were installed on wooden supports. Today there is an opportunity to make sconces at home, both for candles and for electric bulbs.

As you know, any material has its pros and cons, and wood has its own special qualities that must be taken into account when making a lamp from wood:

1. Wood is considered the most environmentally friendly material, containing resins emit beneficial aromas, due to which the air in the room is filled with useful microelements, which, in turn, is beneficial for the respiratory tract of the human body.
2. Easy processing of the manufactory - special equipment is required for the production of steel and plastic elements for decorative lighting, and this is a high cost. To make a sconce with your own hands from wood, you only need ordinary tools that almost every home craftsman has.
3. Wood has special strength and durability, especially if the material is impregnated with special agents.
4. It is possible to create exclusive lamps of carved, prefabricated or combined character from wood, which will not only decorate your interior, but will also stand out favorably, emphasizing the refined taste of their owners.

Disadvantages of wooden sconces

Before you start making wood with your own hands, you need to take into account and take all safety measures, as well as develop a future project for a wall sconce. It must be remembered that light bulbs should not come into contact with wood and other elements of the lamp. Let's take a closer look at several models of wall sconces.

Wooden structures for lighting fixtures

Other options for combining wood and metal have different directions. This can be a metal lampshade with a wooden base, or a torch-shaped lamp with a hand holding it. For connoisseurs of wood, we can offer the manufacture of sconces only from wood or plywood. It all depends on your imagination and the material at hand.

Bamboo lamp

A beautiful lamp can be made from an old lamp and bamboo sticks tied with coconut rope. The device is elementary, three bamboo sticks are tied together. Two vertically, and one between them horizontally and attached to the wall. Lampshade from an old lamp is attached with a rope to a horizontal bamboo stick. This design can be placed in the house, on the porch or gazebo.

Lamps for a children's room or bedroom

A beautiful wall lamp for a nursery can be made from a sheet of fiberboard or plywood. An example would be the design of an ordinary birdhouse.

For this, parts of the sidewalls, roof, bottom are cut out with a manual or electric jigsaw. Self-made fasteners are installed on the reverse side, after which the product is painted and the electrical components are installed.

The main features in the design of the lamp

• Gloves and safety goggles must be worn when working with wood.
• How to make and connect a sconce with one light bulb - in this case there should be two wires, the phase passes through the switch, and zero is connected with a blue lead wire. The more lamps, the more wires, but the connection principle remains the same.

Location of wall lights:

• The height of the sconce from the floor in the bedroom should not be higher than 1.6 meters.
• In the children's room, you need to hang lamps out of the reach of children.
• In corridors with a high ceiling, the installation takes place at a two-meter height from the floor, if the room has a low ceiling, then the lighting fixtures can be mounted at a distance of 1.8 meters. For the living room 1.4 meters.

In custody

You can make your own unique and unusual lamp from various improvised items that can be found in your garage or shed. As a result of such modifications of old things, you will get a stylish DIY lamp. As a result, you saved on buying a sconce and at the same time freed the shelves from old junk.

Handmade projects help us to add brightness to the interior, to make it individual. One of the options is to make a lamp for your home with your own hands. Unusual details, materials, ideas and a little creativity - and the design item is ready.

DIY lamps: interesting ideas

There are many models of fixtures that you can make yourself. They differ in design, style, size. A wide variety of materials are suitable for their manufacture - paper, vine, plastic cups, yarn, fabric, glass bottles, plastic bags, wooden hoops, wire, veneer, old things or what is left after repair, etc. The easiest option is to do do it yourself lampshade and purchase a ready-made wiring system with a plinth. It is available even to the most beginners in needlework and creativity.

Wall lamps

You can install a beautiful home-made lamp on the wall near the bed, including in the children's room. Most often, unusual lampshades are made for this from wood, fabric, and vines. But there are also more original options.

At the dacha, we made a lamp from two 0.75 liter cans and two pieces of board with unevenly cut edges. The boards are connected at right angles to each other, and the whole structure is installed on the wall of the house under the porch. The cans-plafonds are screwed in sockets into which LED lamps are inserted. A lamp of this style is ideal for a country house or a rustic interior.

Photo gallery: DIY wall lamps

Vine is an interesting material for creating original lampshades Very easy to make and at the same time look stylish lamps from the board Threads, glue and balloons - everything you need to create beautiful lamps You can make different versions of lamps from the board A bizarre driftwood - an unusual base for a wall lamp Clouds carved from plywood can be used to create a night light Even pallets can be adapted to create a beautiful DIY lamp.

Table, floor lamps

It is easy to update a floor lamp from scrap materials or make a new table lamp in ethnic style, hi-tech, or others. Beads, ribbons, paper cuttings are used for decoration.

Photo gallery: interesting models of table lamps with your own hands

Eco-style interior can be updated by making a floor lamp with a wood shade Long and thin branches, tied together in a bundle, attached to a stable support, are used to create a floor lamp The frame from the old lampshade can be decorated with beads - you get a new lamp Ribbons and beads can be used as base material for a new lampshade or as decor Fabric lampshades - ideal for a table lamp in the bedroom The lamp can be made from water pipes Easy to knit lampshade for floor lamp The original lamp is obtained from lids from aluminum cans

Pendant lights

Ceiling lamps made of yarn are widespread, with which balloons are wrapped, and then the entire structure is covered with glue. For many, such a simple option is the first try in this type of needlework. Chandeliers made of driftwood, bottles or suspended structures made of plastic pipes look more spectacular.

Photo gallery: DIY pendant lamps

A driftwood chandelier is a bright and stylish piece for the living room You can quickly and easily make a beautiful chandelier from beads. Wood material used for the manufacture of lamps must be varnished You can decorate a kitchen or a country house with a bottle lamp From plastic spoons they make beautiful lamps in the shape of a pineapple, a ball, or so on. A lamp made of metal bars - a stylish and functional decor for the kitchen Remains of water pipes and fittings - unusual material for a ceiling lamp

How to make a lamp

Paper - corrugated, colored, geographic maps, cardboard, wallpaper, bags and other types - is one of the best materials for crafts. A simple paper butterfly lamp can be made quickly and effortlessly. To do this, you need a frame from an old lampshade, a metal ring or just a wire from which the base for the product is made. Then you just have to cut out the butterflies and attach them to the frame with silicone glue or, for example, hang them on a wire. It doesn't take long to make a table lamp out of plastic pipes or spoons, although the projects are more complicated than paper chandeliers.

Paper butterflies for a homemade chandelier can be cut according to a pattern with children

Origami lamp made of paper bags: step by step instructions

Such a lamp can be made for wall, table or pendant. For work you will need:

• ready-made electrical base for the lamp - a wire with a socket and a switch, a plug (for a table lamp or floor lamp);
• stand for a lampshade (you can take from the old one or use materials at hand for this, for example, a thick branch);
• paper bag with an interesting print - 2 pcs. (when gluing, they must be at least 0.5 m long);
• lED lamp;
• thick thread and a needle.

Operating procedure:

1. Cut the bottom off the paper bags and remove the handles.
2. Glue the resulting pieces into one, fold in half and then into an accordion. You should get 16 stripes of the same width.

   Prepared packages are folded into an accordion

3. Fold each strip diagonally. This part of the workpiece will subsequently be the top.

   The paper blank must be bent accordingly in order to later make a lampshade out of it

4. On the opposite side, which has remained flat, also fold each strip diagonally. This part is smaller in length.

   All folds on the bags must be symmetrical and even

5. Carefully unfold the packages and bend the workpiece along the resulting folds so that you get a lampshade.

   A volumetric figure resembling a berry is formed along the folds on paper

6. From above (where the folds are longer) sew the workpiece with a thick thread.

   To keep the lampshade in shape, it is fastened with a thread at the top.

7. Then insert a socket with a wire inside the lampshade, screw in the LED lamp and hang the structure on the stand.

   Since the paper burns well, it is better to use LED lamps in the lamp.

Diode chandelier from socket-splitters

An ergonomic and unusual loft-style chandelier can be made from socket-splitters for diode lamps. The finished structure is painted in any color that suits the interior of the room. It is important to secure all parts firmly. For work you will need:

• ceiling socket - 1 pc .;
• splitter cartridges - up to 12 pcs .;
• lamps - up to 12 pcs.;
• spray paint;
• paper.

The shape of the chandelier can be any

Spread paper on the working surface, paint the workpiece from all sides with spray paint.

Wait until it is completely dry.

Paint the ceiling rosette only on the front side and dry it too. Reapply paint if necessary.

If you want to change something in the room, you can simply connect the fittings in a different way to get a chandelier of a new shape.

Video: how to make a lamp with shades from cups

Everyone can decorate their home with a new hand-made lamp. It is enough to choose an interesting idea and put in a little effort.

In this article we will figure out how to make a complete and safe lamp with your own hands. In the initial publication of the cycle - - the general requirements for quality, methods of forming the luminous flux, as well as how to choose a light source and - safety first of all - the rules for connecting a stationary lamp to the mains were considered. From the previous article, we learned how to make the main lighting parts of the lamp -. Now is the time to take on a solid, reliable and beautiful constructive foundation for all this.

About LEDs

LEDs as light sources are becoming more and more popular: they are very economical, durable, almost do not heat up, which gives ample opportunities for independent construction and design. In addition, the low voltage power supply makes the LED light sources safe. Therefore, in this article a significant portion of the material is devoted to how to independently make an LED lamp.

However, the quality of light from LEDs has not yet reached ideal: his spectrum is quite tough. You can soften it with various lighting techniques, which was discussed in previous articles. But thanks to the low-voltage power supply, an outdoor or garden LED lamp can be made independently without special precautions, as well as be autonomous; then voluminous earthworks and cable laying on the site disappear. In this section, we are more concerned with LED lamps.

Some examples of what you can achieve by taking up lighting equipment with your own hands are shown in the photo. Anyone who knows how to use the Internet will compose a similar selection "for ideas" or "for inspiration". And here we will deal with things that are not so aesthetic: how to embody all this in the material. Cheap, reliable and practical. Desirable - at home, "on your knees."

Materials, tools, equipment, technologies

You don't need expensive and / or hard-to-find materials to make a good lamp. Previous technologies are focused on incandescent lamps, which are very hot and consume a lot of current. Today's homemade products have economy and LED lamps that emit little heat, which simplifies the design.

For the manufacture of a luminaire, neither in appearance nor in quality inferior to industrial designs, we need cuts of metal tubes, steel wire with a diameter of 1.5-2.5 mm, galvanized sheet steel with a thickness of 0.4-1 mm and pieces of plastic or inexpensive plastic products, see below. And in many cases, to achieve the desired result, it is possible to do with unnecessary rubbish. Wood processing for a complex lamp is a special case, and we will not bypass it either.

Note: good old glass is also not to be discounted. See, for example, a master class: diy.ru/post/3916/... This is what you can achieve by working at home with such difficult material. Only one small "but" - what the author of the product (a person, no doubt, very skillful and sharp-witted) calls a cut, in fact, an edging. However, how to call is a matter of literary experts, and it is enough for a master to make a good thing.

Simple yet tasteful

Examples of excellent lamps made from scrap materials, namely, scraps of wood and paper - well-known Chinese lanterns, see fig. When using modern light sources, their fire hazard is negligible, much less than that of an electric kettle. The base is most often a rack frame, pasted over with paper, pos. 1. For the frame of what is in pos. 2, thin bamboo sticks are better (you can split an old rod into strips), or the ends of modern fiberglass rods; sold in fishing shops. The joints are wrapped with thread and glued. After pasting, paper (preferably rice) is lightly sprayed with water from a spray bottle. When dry, it will stretch. After that, for strength, the paper is varnished.

A Chinese lantern can also be made entirely of wood: chopsticks or skewers (wooden twigs on which barbecue and kebab are served to the table). Both are made of light wood that reflects light well enough. And its slightly rough surface effectively diffuses light, which softens it.

From the chopsticks, placing their broadened heads alternately to the left and to the right, pick up the side light-transmitting panels, pos. 3. And from the table skewers you get a good ceiling lamp for the kitchen or hallway, pos. 4. The ends of the sticks (they are made of soft wood) are simply pierced with a sewing needle with a fishing line threaded into it.

Plastics

But back to the materials, they are not finished yet. Excellent details of chandeliers, table lamps and floor lamps (cups, caps, see below) are obtained from reusable plastic dishes - bowls, glasses, saucers: the rim on the bottom is carefully cut or grinded. Then this place is passed 2-3 times with increasingly fine sandpaper; the last pass - "velvet" - and polished with felt with GOI paste. The decorative, lighting and technological (ease of processing) qualities of such parts are very good.

The second type of plastic that allows you to make a very original lamp (see fig.) Is polymer clay or just plastic. In terms of lighting properties, it is not inferior to light wood, and in a thin, 2-3 mm, layer, it is translucent, like milk glass, i.e. softens light very well.

Polymer clay is available in different colors immediately-plastic in plastic bags and bars, like plasticine. The latter are at first quite hard, but soften when kneaded. To speed up and facilitate softening, put 3-4 drops of vegetable oil on the bar, and begin to crush when it is absorbed.

Lampshades are molded from soft plastic on a mandrel greased with petroleum jelly. Immediately, if necessary, fill the texture with a brush, at the bottom right in Fig. To obtain an openwork shade, the tip of the package is cut off and the mass is squeezed out with a sausage. After about a day, the product will dry out, then you can, while not removing from the mandrel, cut out figures, scallops, frills. The product dries completely in 3-7 days.

Bar plastics are used to make lamp stands. Having formed the workpiece, it is baked in the oven at 120-130 degrees. When a brownish crust forms on the product, the gas is covered to a minimum and “baked” for another 1-3 hours, depending on the size of the part. It should cool completely in the oven, which is undesirable to open. The baked workpiece can be cut, sawed, drilled, polished, painted. In this way, lamp bodies are sometimes obtained not only original, but also quite piquant (see fig.), And even frivolous on the verge of decency, or even behind it.

Ceramics

Since we are talking about stands, let's try to make a lamp from a bottle. Ceramic beverage containers designed by brand designers deserve better use than trash heaps, moonshine or recyclable materials for a pittance.

There are 2 problems here: stability and openings for cable entry and a switch. The first solution is solved with sand poured into the bottle by 2/3 or 3/4. To solve the second one, it seems, you need a tubular diamond drill, which is expensive, quickly wearing out, and requires a high-speed drilling machine. And we can do without all this:

• Let's select a copper tube of a suitable diameter.
• We will securely fix the vessel, which we will drill, so that the drill enters along the normal (perpendicular) to its surface in this place.
• Around the place of the future hole, we will mold a roller 4-6 mm high from plasticine.
• Rub a couple of pieces of fine skin together over a tray to get about a teaspoon of corundum powder.
• Pour it into the hole and drop 3-5 drops of machine oil - you can drill.

For drilling, it is better to put a drill with a copper tube clamped in a chuck in a bed, which turns it into a tabletop drilling machine. These stands are sold at tool stores; the prices are divine, the benefit to the artisan is invaluable. Moreover, you can buy a turntable with a degree scale for the bed.

They drill ceramics with copper and corundum with jerks: slightly pressed - raised - pressed again - raised. Particles of abrasive are first eaten into copper and drilled, but then break off and crumble. Pulse drilling constantly renews the corundum "sputtering" on the copper, and the oil prevents the powder from scattering and speeds up the work. The main thing is that the tube, with each feed, falls exactly into the already selected groove.

Electrical fittings

For a novice lighting technician, it is best, perhaps, to use sockets for lamps for a regular E27 base with fastening with union shaped nuts (threaded flanges); its designation begins with E27H, and the drawing is shown in Fig. It will not work to fasten such a cartridge, or a regular one with a skirt, with a threaded fitting in the lid: if there is a M10x1 or M12x1 die, then at home, with a hand crank, it is very difficult to cut a thread on a thin-walled tube without cutting it or twisting it, even with lubricant. For mounting with flanges, you will have to make a fastening ring, as described in the article on lampshades, it is much easier.

Note: if a wall lamp is made, in which the lamp is located along the base, then cartridges with a side bar are usually used, see Fig., but they are more expensive. In this case, you can also do with a flange chuck: an Ω-shaped clamp is bent from the wire and fastened to the base with self-tapping screws.

The second thing you need is a screw terminal connector, or a terminal block, or just a terminal block, to connect the luminaire to the wiring. For a chandelier, it is obligatory not only for the sake of ease of installation, but also according to the safety requirements: suddenly the chandelier will break, its thinner wires will break out of the terminal block, and the ceiling wiring will not suffer, which will prevent an accident and ceiling grooving repair work.

It is better to take the terminal block of the "comb" type, see fig .:

Such are compact, reliable, eliminate an accidental short circuit, and by biting the jumpers between the sections, it is elementary to get a connector for the required number of wires. It is allowed to enter into each terminal no more than 2 stranded wires with a copper cross-section of up to 1.4 sq. mm in aggregate and not more than 1 single-core, regardless of the cross-sectional area of \u200b\u200bits conductive core.

About wooden lamps

Wood, on the one hand, is easy to process and looks solidly finished. On the other hand, in order to make an elegant wooden lamp, you will have to use some special technological methods. Which we will consider.

Cable channels

The first problem that arises in the manufacture of a wooden lamp: how to make cable channels in lengthy parts. To do this, without special equipment, "on the knee", you can use a wood drill with a tapered 6-sided shank, see fig. A metal tube is tightly put on it, squeezed, and the opposite end is bent in a T-shape to make a manual crank; for easier and more accurate work, it is better to take a two-tape drill.

Through axial holes in long wooden parts are drilled in advance, before bending:

1. In both ends of the workpiece, blind holes of the required diameter are drilled, with a depth of 30-40 mm, trying to make them go as accurately as possible along the axis of the part;
2. Drill with the described manual crank alternately from both ends, passing each time no more than 3-4 thicknesses of the part;
3. Chips from the holes after each pass are carefully removed;
4. After connecting the jumper, the hole goes through twice, from one end and the other. This is necessary to remove the step inside, on which the cable can catch on when tightening.

How to bend a tree?

It is quite possible to make a lamp from bent wooden parts with your own hands: aged fine-grained wood softens under heating, without delamination, but after cooling down, retains the shape given to it. Bamboo, walnut and soft wood, eg. Linden. More difficult - wood of medium hardness: maple, ash, hornbeam. For bending oak, beech, mountain ash and other hard species, it is better for a novice cabinetmaker not to take it. MDF also bends well.

Wood is bent either steamed in boiling water, or heated dry to more than 150 degrees. The first method is easier, but it is suitable, except for bamboo, for few species. The second is more difficult, but more accurate, because wood does not swell and, when cooled, does not shrink.

To bend wood, you need a piece of steel pipe: with a welded end for steaming or with both open for bending dry. The steaming pipe is installed obliquely, the workpiece is placed in it, poured over with water and boiled. Boiling water must be vigorous so that the workpiece bathes in bubbles of steam. The process continues for 10-120 minutes, depending on the thickness, species and condition of the tree. You can take out the workpiece for a few seconds to check its readiness, but you only need to add boiling water instead of boiled water. Dry bending, blowing the workpiece in the pipe with a construction hairdryer. First, on a sample of wood, you need to check what temperature it can withstand without charring and cracking.

How to tighten the cables?

The cables in the tubular parts of the luminaires are tightened using a guide rod - "fishing rod" - made of copper wire with a diameter of 0.5-0.7 mm. The "rod" must be completely flat; a smoothly bent wire wound from a coil can also be crumpled in a narrow channel. The wire of the "fishing rod" is straightened by pulling it through a rag tightly clamped in a fist. The best guides come from enamelled winding wire, which is smooth and slippery.

The "fishing rod" is introduced from the far end. Before this, its tip is tightly bent, see fig., So that it is rounded. The traction is pushed into the curved canals, slightly feeding and turning. When passing from channel to channel (see below), the running end is directed with thin long tweezers or a screwdriver.

When the end of the rod appears from the opposite side, it is cleaned by 20-30 mm and tinned. The cable wires are stripped and tinned by the same amount, up to 3 for 1 "fishing rod". Then everything is twisted and soldered together. The twist is bent in the opposite direction of tightening so that it does not cling. Tighten by alternately feeding the cable and tightening the guide. When tightening, the cable in the channel must not be pulled all the time! If caught, pull it back a little, turn it a little and pull it again.

Note: in a straight metal tube with an inner diameter of 12 mm, you can tighten up to 4-x 2-wire cables in double insulation with a cross-section of copper conductors up to 0.5 sq. mm. In a channel of the same diameter in a tree - only 1 of the same cable.

Starting from the ceiling

Suspension of the luminaire to the ceiling or wall is the most critical and vulnerable node. It is allowed to suspend lamps at the 1st point only if the base is a tough, durable material, for example. oak beams, pos. a) in Fig. In other cases, you must either use at least 2 suspension points, or the luminaire anchor must press on the material from above, i.e. the ceiling must be in compression, pos. c) - e).

A chandelier weighing up to 5 kg is suspended using a fixing bar, see fig. on right. The distance between the centers of the fixing holes in the strip must be, for a concrete ceiling, at least 9 of their diameters. If the ceiling is gypsum plasterboard, or suspended, or tension, then the suspension is lowered from the main ceiling to the decorative level with the help of wooden crosses or from metal profiles or plywood plates, at the top in the same place. How to make a suspension in some other cases, see below.

The main requirement for a suspension is that the luminaire should never hang on wires. It should be held either by a rigid bar, or by a strong cord / rope, or a cradle made of chains or the same cords. The power cable must be in a loose loop under the top suspension hood and must not be pulled, pinched or pinched anywhere.

How to make a lamp?

Now he will try to bring the information received into a single piece, at the sight of which the guests will gasp as sincerely as the master expressed himself while working. We will be guided by the following principles:

• Complicated and / or requiring special skills of technological operations are avoided in every possible way.
• We use glue or solder joints only for auxiliary ones that keep the parts to be joined from displacement. Assembled without gluing and soldering, the product should, in the absence of external influences, keep intact in the normal position for an unlimited time.
• From an additional tool, we will try to get by with a manual electric drill and a small removable bench vise with a screw clamp for attaching to the table.

Let's start with a chandelier as the most complex type of household lighting fixture.

Chandelier

On a cord

The simplest suspension of a chandelier weighing up to 5 kg is on a cord, pos. 1 in fig. In this case, 4 additional holes will have to be drilled in the lampshade mounting ring (see article on lampshades); marked in green at pos. 1a. The knots of the cord must be knitted that do not slip and do not open, for example. any fishing hooks. Cord - any rotting strand (eg linen) with a loose diameter of 8 mm. Spiral cords and ropes are not designed for prolonged tensile load!

The most important detail is the suspension hook (red gearbox). It needs to be bent from steel wire with a diameter of 4 mm; a hook made of 6 mm wire rod will withstand a weight of up to 35 kg. Of course, if you buy a ready-made chandelier hook, it won't get any worse.

Suspension rods for the same weight - from 4 mm wire; with a weight of up to 5 kg, you can get by with a 1.5 mm, and with a weight of up to 12 kg - 2.5-3 mm. The ring is made of galvanized sheet steel 0.4 and 0.8 mm, respectively, or, for weight up to 35 kg, 1.4 mm.

Note: the technology of brazing steel at home is described in.

In this case, it is better to fix the upper cup from slipping with a rubber ring, because the spring washer can transmit the cable underneath. A good pallet comes from a computer disk. Depending on whether the lamp is in the lampshade or in the shade, it is turned downwards, respectively, with the painted or mirrored side. Radial cuts are made under the lampshade extensions in the pallet.

The top cup and cap are made of plastic dishes, see above. The cap lies loosely on the pallet. Glue - any mounting glue.

Note: the lower nut of the chuck fastening should go into the hole of the pallet, and not press it down. Otherwise, it may be difficult to repair or clean the chandelier.

On the tube

In a chandelier suspended on a rigid tubular rod (pos. 2), firstly, it is not necessary to bend the suspension rods so that it is convenient to knit a knot on their crosshairs. Secondly, the number of rods can be any from 3. Accordingly, the ring can be made without an additional row of holes, such as described in the article on lampshades.

It is preferable to fix the cap in such a chandelier with a shaped (decorative) spring washer. It can be obtained from a thick plastic button by drilling a hole in the center 0.5-0.7 mm narrower than the outer diameter of the tube and making an oblique cut from the side at 45 degrees to the axis of the washer, a round link of a plastic chain with the same cut, etc. P.

An eyelet for a hook in the suspension bar is obtained by flattening the tube and drilling a hole in the resulting lamella (petal). After that (and not before) a hole is drilled for the cable laying, otherwise dangerous mechanical stresses may remain in the material. A rod for a luminaire weight up to 15 kg can be made of the following types of pipes:

1. Steel one-piece - inner diameter from 6 mm, wall thickness from 0.5 mm. Finishing - painting or covering with a heat-shrinkable tube (HERE) of the desired color.
2. Steel with a seam - int. diameter from 8 mm, wall thickness from 0.7 mm. The finish is the same.
3. Copper gas in plastic sheath - int. diameter from 8 mm, wall from 1 mm. No finishing is needed, and so copper shines for years. You can not solder, you need to remove the plastic cover in that place under the glue joint.
4. For air conditioning systems made of oxygen-free copper - int. diameter from 10 mm, wall from 1 mm. It is very easy to solder and stick. To preserve the copper shine, you need to coat the finished bar twice with a clear water-based acrylic varnish, diluted twice with distilled water.
5. Plain red copper - int. diameter from 12 mm, wall from 1.5 mm. It is brazed after stripping, you need to use a flux paste with borax. It gets dark over time and under the coating, so it is better to make retro-style lamps from such tubes.
6. Taped propylene is very strong, but does not stick and, of course, is not soldered. Decorating is useless, the design is terrifying anyway.

Multihorn

The tubes can be used to make chandeliers with horn brackets for individual lighting fixtures. The device for connecting the arms with the rod is shown in pos. 5. Horns with an even number are connected in pairs by through threaded rods M2.5-M4 with nuts and spring washers. Pairs of holes for studs are located at different levels, this must be taken into account when calculating the height of the straight part of the horn and making markings on their blanks. You can use horns, incl. with an odd number of them, fasten with pairs of small self-tapping screws for metal, but then tighten the cables very carefully so as not to tear the insulation on the sharp ends of the hardware protruding inward.

Note: complex / extended bends of the tubes are formed in sections, gradually moving the hand pipe bender along the length of the future bend.

If the free ends of the horns are without squiggles (sorry - volute), etc. curls, then it is better to cover the knot of their connection with the bar with a cap lying on the lower cup (shown in dotted lines in pos. 5). In addition, then the cabling will be much easier: a terminal block will fit under the hood, in which the cables from the horns will converge, and only one 2-wire cable will pass up in the rod.

Multi-arm chandeliers are most often made with switchable lighting. The diagram for connecting lamps to a 2-section switch is shown in pos. 6. Do not forget - SB switches (commutators) must be included in the phase wire! And yet, it is extremely important: if the house is equipped with a protective earth, under no circumstances use a ground wire as a neutral (zero, N) regardless of the power supply scheme (solidly earthed or isolated neutral)! The earthing switch is always in yellow insulation with a longitudinal stripe, and the neutral insulation in properly arranged wiring is black. But in any case, before starting the electrical work, you need to find the zero and the phase with the phase indicator!

About phases, zero and ground

Safety regulations (PTB), electrical installation devices (PUE) and Codes of Rules (SP) for the production of electrical work for related industries (eg construction) unambiguously regulate the color of the insulation of only grounding wires - yellow with a green stripe; the colors for phase conductors A, B, C and neutral are only recommended. The reason is that in countries where the only acceptable power supply system with an isolated neutral (Germany, Japan, etc.), it is customary to designate phase A in white or light gray. Therefore, choose from the commercially available cables suitable for making apartment wiring “without a knot, without a hitch ”is not always possible.

The chandelier is heavy ...

For ceiling luminaires weighing 15 kg or more, the attachment to the 1st rod or cord is no longer considered reliable enough. These need to be hung on a chain or rope cradle of 3-4 branches. 1 branch should support the full weight of the luminaire with 3 times the headroom.

The cradle is attached to the ceiling using a triangular or square base plate made of steel with a thickness of 5 mm, pos. 7 in Fig. The number of attachment points is 4 or 5, respectively. An attachment point in the center is obligatory: without it, if one of the corner attachments becomes excessively weakened, the mechanical load will "bump" to the next weakest one, the suspension will break out according to the domino principle and the chandelier will "all of a sudden" collapse.

Corner attachment points should be located on a conventional circle (red dotted line) with a diameter in centimeters of at least 0.85 of the chandelier weight in kilograms. In any case, the smallest distance between the centers of the holes in the concrete ceiling should be from 9 of their diameters, as in the case of a 2-point suspension on a plank, see above. The lugs or hooks for the branches of the cradle are welded to the base plate. Homemade eyelets can be made from 6mm wire rod.

... and ultralight

Hobbyists make a lot of fixtures out of disposable plastic dishes, PET bottles and paper. Their weight is negligible, therefore, firstly, it is permissible to mount the cartridge in the lampshade / plafond from the same kebab sticks, see fig. In this case, take the cartridge E17 or E10 with lugs, see fig. left. The "ears" of the cartridge with the help of a sewing needle are simply tied to the crosshairs of the sticks with thread, thin copper wire or fishing line.

Secondly, the suspension of a lightweight lamp can also be made from a cradle, but from a fishing line. Its branches are introduced into the ceiling cap together with the cable, as for a chandelier on a cord. Such a suspension is almost invisible. If the cable (remember, it should not be pulled, pinched or crushed anywhere) is twisted or twisted in a spiral, then an ignorant guest may at first be dumbfounded: levitation? telekinesis? superconductor and magnets?

Floor lamp

A floor lamp based on the same design and technological principles is, in general, an inverted chandelier on a rigid rod with some differences, pos. 3 in Fig. above with lamp designs. First: the bar (which is already a stand) is made of a steel pipe with an inner diameter of 10 mm and a wall thickness of 1.5 mm. Ring - galvanized from 0.7 mm. Second: all joints of steel parts are soldered.

Further, in the lower support of the floor lamp, a sufficiently heavy and extensive structure must be provided for fixing the bottom of the rack. A crosspiece from about 450x450 mm made of oak timber 100x100 mm will go under a standard floor lamp. A blind hole with a depth of 75-80 mm is drilled in it in the center along the outer diameter of the rack, and glued into the socket with mounting glue. They also glue the rack into the shelf of the floor lamp. It will be useful, both in design and in strength, to put on the glue a polished washer with a diameter of 60 mm and a thickness of 2 mm (steel) or 4 mm (aluminum). The described design allows an amateur to do without turned-to-order parts in the manufacture of a floor lamp.

Table lamp

A working table lamp based on our principles of construction is even simpler than a floor lamp, pos. 4: a sufficiently massive and solid base (wood, plastic) with a stepped through hole along the axis. The lampshade ring is placed on the step and fastened with self-tapping screws. Then it will at the same time press the mustache of the lampshade extensions and it will not dangle.

Note: for the base of a table lamp made of ceramic or glassware, you need to make a top-knob with a stepped hole, which is fitted on its neck. The most suitable material for this is plastic.

For outdoor lighting

We will leave outdoor lamps for 220 V purchased: it is impossible to make “forever” a sealed cable gland for mains voltage and also a sealed case with glass at home. We will work with voltages up to 12 V, then the cable gland turns out to be quite simple, see fig. And if the light source is powered from a current stabilizer, then no short circuit will be scary.

However, it may not come to electricity: for temporary lighting in a garden or at a picnic, and in the 21st century it is often more convenient and cheaper to use an ordinary candle, it is also more romantic. And you can make a candle lantern with your own hands from a coffee can in just a few minutes, see the video:

Video: DIY candle lantern from a coffee can

Such a lamp is also suitable for a light bulb; then there is no need for ventilation holes and the carrying handle can be fixed to the lid for more reliability.

The permanent outdoor luminaire must already be electric. The main problem is reliable sealing. Here again glassware with a screw lid comes to the rescue: an outdoor lamp comes out well from a jar. In this case, since a more powerful light source is required, it is better to take a container from under conservation. The cable gland is made by punching the cover with a round pointed rod. To ensure complete tightness, aquarium silicone is once and for all applied to the rim of the lid from the inside before screwing it in.

Luminaire "once and for all" assumes the use of very reliable and durable light sources. Requirements for its quality and spectrum fade into the background, because it is not a living or working space that is illuminated. Taking these conditions into account, it is better to make an outdoor lamp on the porch or, say, at the entrance to the garage, from an LED strip: it will give quite bright lighting with negligible electricity consumption. For an example of making such a lamp, see:

Video: DIY garden lantern in 15 minutes

In the garden and in general on the site, a high brightness of lighting is no longer needed, here, in general, if only you do not leave the path and make out the door to the bathhouse, cellar, shed or bathroom. But it is very, very desirable to have a garden lamp autonomous: here it is not about electricity costs, but about cable costs, and who would like to chick a well-groomed area with trenches?

Garden lights powered by solar panels (SB) and a back-up battery (accumulator battery) are commercially available, but are either expensive or short-lived. Let's try to figure out if we can do it on our own, especially since it is quite possible:

• 4 white LEDs with a current of each 20 mA in a shade made of milk glass or a frosted plastic bottle, more or less acceptable for gardening needs, will illuminate a circle with a diameter of 4-5 m.With a current of 10 mA each in the light spot it will still be possible to see where the stone is, and where is the pit. Total 60 mA on average.
• The battery, taking into account the weak recharge in winter and the decrease in capacity in the cold, should provide the maximum current of the illuminators for at least 30 hours. Finger-type accumulators for 2500-3500 mAh, frost-resistant up to -20, are on sale. We take the minimum allowable battery capacity of 2500 mAh.
• Luminous diode voltage drop approx. 2 V. In order to stabilize the total current consumption and the discharge mode of the battery, on which its resource significantly depends, we give twice as much to the quenching resistors, for a total battery voltage we get 6 V.
• SB, taking into account the energy efficiency of the Ni-Cd battery of 74%, should provide a current of approx. 75 mA. For winter in mid-latitudes, we take a rated current of 100 mA.
• Also, taking into account the energy efficiency of the battery and voltage losses during charging, we take the SB voltage of 9 V.
• So that the battery resource does not fall from overcharging, the overcharge current through it should not be more than 5% of the hourly discharge current. With a battery capacity of 2500 mA / h and a short-circuit current of 100 mA, this condition is maintained, with a battery of 3500 mA / h, even more so. That is, instead of an expensive and complex charge controller, you can simply put a silicon rectifier diode.

A diagram of an autonomous garden lamp built taking into account the described conditions is shown in Fig.:

Despite its simplicity, the battery in it is never brought to the degradation of the active medium due to overcharging and only in exceptional cases can it reach a deep discharge; therefore, its service life remains normal when operated in severe temperature conditions. The "highlight" here is SB. Their internal resistance is large and nonlinear, according to a power law, it grows with increasing load current, as a result of which the short-circuit current of the SB is only slightly more than the nominal one. From this point of view, it is more profitable to use less expensive polysilicon SBs in this scheme.

The control unit CU closes the switch S when the SB voltage drops to the "twilight" level. VD1 by that time has already closed and the battery charge will stop. It is connected to the UU battery only for power supply. Switch - diode or transistor optocoupler or electromagnetic relay; in this case, the reed switch is better, because a conventional low-voltage coil will take more current than all LEDs. It is impossible to use a thyristor optocoupler as an S in this case: in order for the opened thyristor to close, the current through it must drop to a very small value, practically to zero. Since the current is constant here, the thyristor, once opened, will not "quit" until it completely sinks the battery.

About aquarium lighting

Special linear fluorescent lamps are used to illuminate aquariums. Not like phyto lamps for flower shelves: the range of aquarium lamps is tailored to the optical properties of the water and the vital needs of aquatic plants. Both lamps are unsuitable for general lighting of premises: light that favors photosynthesis is by no means always useful for human vision.

Lighting is the most important component of the interior. Coziness and comfort level of our home depends on lighting. The play of light and shadow allows you to play up the winning moments of the interior and divert attention from unfortunate moments. And also - lamps, floor lamps, chandeliers and lamps create the atmosphere that we call "home". Unique lamps and the best way - to make a lampshade with your own hands, will help to make a home only "your own", personal, individual. Homemade shades and lampshades are the strong point that will make your home stand out from others.

A few words about safety

In the manufacture of lamps, floor lamps and chandeliers in industrial conditions, a preliminary calculation is made of the minimum distance from the "body" of the lamp to materials. This distance depends on the power and heat radiation of the lamp and on the type (combustibility) of the material from which the shade / lampshade is made. At home, hardly anyone will bother with such calculations. And in order not to create a dangerous situation, it is worth adhering to certain rules.

And in general, having made a lampshade and installing it, in the first few days, pay attention to whether the lamp is warming up. Any rise in temperature above ambient is considered heat. If the shade feels warm, change the bulb to a less powerful one. Check again. So until the homemade lampshade is warm.

Where to get the frame

If you want to remake an old lamp, floor lamp, sconces whose old lampshade has become unusable, you can simply use the existing base, peeling off the old material. Before starting work, inspect the frame well, if there is rust or damaged coating somewhere, maybe it is worth peeling and painting everything again? At the same time, the color can be changed. If you don't have the old frames, you can buy an inexpensive lamp (in a store or at a flea market) and do the same thing with it. Quite good lampshades can, by the way, be made from waste baskets. They are wire, there are plastic. The main thing is to find the right one in shape and size. Then in the bottom you make a hole for the cartridge. Further - it's up to the decoration / cladding, and then there are a lot of options.

If this method is not available either, you can make a lampshade without a frame (there are some) or make a frame yourself. The material for making a frame for a lampshade with your own hands is: wire, wood (wooden or bamboo sticks, specially cut elements), plastic bottles.

How to make a wire frame for a homemade lampshade

The wire for the lamp frame needs aluminum or steel. It is easy to work with aluminum, but it wrinkles easily. This is not very important when the lampshade is already in use, but this fact must be taken into account during operation: you can ruin the shape. On the other hand, such plasticity makes it easy and simple to change the shape during operation. So it's not a bad option. Aluminum wire can be obtained from electrical cables. You will have to remove the protective shell and you can use it.

Steel wire is more elastic so that it retains its shape well. You can search for it in the construction market. Working with her is more difficult. It is desirable to have strong male hands nearby.

In addition to the wire, you will need powerful pliers and pliers for work. The frame of a lampshade usually consists of two rings and posts connecting them. The shape of the future lampshade depends on the size of the rings and the shape of the racks. Questions may arise about the number of racks and how they are attached. The number of posts depends on the size of the rings and how “round” you want the lampshade. The more racks there are, the smoother the fabric will be. So it's up to you, but the optimal distance between the posts along the lower circle is about 5-6 cm.

Techniques for creating a wire lampshade frame

How you attach the stack to the rings of your lampshade depends on the thickness and type of wire and the tools you have. The easiest is to make a small hook at the end, then clamp it tightly. And so that the ring does not slide left and right, pre-process the wire at the attachment point with coarse sandpaper. This is an option for thick aluminum wires. If the wire is steel, with a diameter of 1.2-2 mm or more, the best way is. The thinner wire can be bent and wrapped around the ring, or you can also make a hook.

If you make hooks, wrap the wire, the appearance is far from being as ideal as that of factory frames. But this imperfection will be covered by the lampshade itself. If she still worries you, find a ribbon of a suitable color (usually matched to the color of the lampshade) and carefully wrap the resulting frame. It will get much better. The tape can be coated with PVA glue and, wet, tightly, turn by turn, wrap the frame.

Wire mesh

If you can find a thin wire mesh, you can quickly make an almost perfect cylindrical shade for a floor lamp, table lamp, night light, candle shade, etc. All you need is to cut off a piece of mesh of the required length and width, roll it into a ring and fix the wires by wrapping them around the racks.

To prevent the mesh from straightening when cutting off a piece, cut so that there are long loose ends on both sides. They will fasten the cylindrical shade. And the imperfection of the upper and lower rings can be masked with a tape of the desired color.

From a five liter plastic bottle

An interesting shape of a lampshade can be obtained from a large-capacity plastic bottle. There are bottles of 5-6 liters and even 10. So you can use them. Cut off the top or bottom from the container - depending on what you like best. In the cut off part, we make a ring for the cartridge. If the top is cut off, the neck can be used for some cartridges. For those with a larger diameter, it will have to be cut off.

Then we cut out the excess plastic, form the rims and posts of the plafond. In order not to be mistaken, you can first draw all the lines with a marker. It will be easier to cut. Everything is elementary. Then we just decorate. And yes, you must cut out the plastic, otherwise the warm air will have nowhere to go.

We make lampshades on the frame

There are enough options for how you can make a lampshade cover:

From ribbons

The easiest and quickest way to convert an old lamp shade to a floor or table lamp is to use ribbons. You need a frame or a lampshade in the form of a cylinder. It can be “naked” or covered in fabric. If you use a bare wire frame, light will filter through the slits, which will create interesting lighting effects, but the lighting will be uneven. Reading in such light is inconvenient - this is an interior solution. If you need even lighting, wrap the fabric over the frame first. It can be the same color as the ribbons, a couple of tones darker or lighter, it can be contrasting. It all depends on your desire. And remember that the darker the fabric, the less light the lampshade lets through.

We take a tape 1-2.5 cm wide. We fix it from the seamy side of the lampshade with PVA glue, additionally fixing it with a pin. If we took a wire frame without fabric, we attach it to the upper or lower rim (you can sew it with your hands, you can use glue). Then we begin to wrap the entire frame, from top to bottom, placing the turns of the tape close to each other, but without overlap.

Having finished the circle, unfold the tape 90 °. We fix it in this position (with a needle and thread or PVA glue, glue from a pistol, temporarily fixing it with a pin, pressing it with a clothespin). Then we pass the tape under the first tape, take it out, put it on top of the second one, then pull it down again, pull it up through one tape. So, gradually, we create a weave, filling the entire lampshade.

Alternatively, you can skip two vertical belts. But then you need to make sure that each next row is shifted by one crossbar. Then you get a different type of weave. Such a lampshade is ideal for floor lamps, since the light will be directed downward, and the dispersion through the walls will be small.

In this version, the ribbons can be the same, they can be of the same color, but different textures, they can differ by a couple of tones or be contrasting. The tapes can be run in a continuous circle around the circle, or after a certain distance. If you find a wide tape and overlap it, then horizontal tape is not needed at all. And if you use a braided or twisted cord (in the lower photo on the right), we get a completely different lampshade. So only this lampshade finishing technique gives a lot of options.

Let's briefly present the ideas. There are many options for how you can customize standard lampshade frames. The first method has already been announced: you can knit a lamp shade cover on knitting needles or crochet. Several options in the photo.

Not everyone knows how to knit. It's easier to work with beads, especially if you glue them. You can decorate old fabric with beads, sequins, beads of different shapes and sizes. You can make such a "new-old" lampshade with your own hands in a couple of hours. Pick up jewelry that matches the color, coat the fabric with PVA glue, glue the jewelry. To complete the look, you can assemble pendants from beads and beads that are attached to the lower rim, but this is already painstaking work. The effect is interesting though.

You can sew a new fabric lampshade. But it is not necessary to make it an updated copy of the old one. Fantasy should be included! If the lamp or floor lamp is in the girls' room, a new lamp shade cover can be made in the form of a skirt. You choose the style of the skirt yourself. They look interesting in the fold. With and without ruffles.

You can use an old geographic map in the boy's room. They are on thick paper. If the paper is not thick enough, first you need to glue the card onto the cardboard, and then glue the lampshade from such a blank.

Original shades are obtained if the finished frame is braided with threads or ropes. The ropes can be natural. In this case, they are gray, brown beige. Thin synthetic colored cords can be found. From them you will get more "fun" in color products. The situation is even simpler with knitting threads. They are thin, thick, textured, with a smoothly changing color. In general, there are a lot of options.

We take the frame and weave it according to a certain pattern. You can start with the racks. Braid each stand with a pigtail (the length of the threads should be 3 times the height of the stand). When this work is over, we begin to stretch the threads / ropes between the posts. They will need to be passed through the pigtails, so with threads it is more convenient to do this with a needle, and the ropes can be inserted like that.

The second option is to first entangle the entire frame horizontally, and then braid the racks. The pigtail will not work here, you just need to fix the turns on the rack with inclined stitches with a certain inclination. This version is somewhat simpler in execution, but the "pigtails" look more decorative.

Homemade shades without a frame

Many materials are tough enough to hold their shape on their own and, at the same time, they are flexible enough to make something interesting out of them. Well, there are a lot of such homemade lampshades. And almost all of them are worth your attention. We will give here only a part, the other part will go in the section with photos (see below).

From knitted lace napkins

Many people have crocheted napkins and they lie in the "zagashniki", as it is a pity to throw away, and do not know how to use. There is a very interesting idea - to make of them a lampshade for a chandelier on a suspension. In addition to napkins, you will need a large balloon or bouncy ball, glue for heavy wallpaper (vinyl, silkscreen, etc.), a brush.

We soak the glue according to the instructions, wait until it swells. We inflate the ball or take the ball, hang it up. When the glue is ready, lay out a napkin on some clean surface, coat it with glue, put it on a ball.

It is necessary to spread it on such a condition that a hole for the cartridge remains in the center. Glue the napkins one by one. They should be laid out so that the edges overlap slightly. When all the napkins are laid, we coat them with glue again and leave to dry. When the glue is dry, blow off the ball or ball (the ball can be punctured, if not sorry) and take it out through the hole. That's all, the lace lampshade is ready.

In some cases, problems arise with how to hang the finished lampshade on the cartridge. The problem is solved simply - take a transparent plastic bottle, cut off its neck, if necessary, expand the hole to the desired size (so that it fits tightly on the cartridge), then cut off the plastic so that you get a ring 5-7 cm wide.You coat this ring with PVA glue , and from the inside of the ball glue to the lampshade.

Round shades made of threads

Practically the same technology can be used to make round and semicircular stylish shades. Choose a thread of a suitable color. Their composition is absolutely unimportant - the color, thickness and texture are important. They can be shaggy, smooth, twisted, thinner and thicker. The appearance depends on it. It is most convenient to work with medium-thick cotton threads. They absorb glue well and then, after drying, keep their shape perfectly.

You will also need a ball or a ball. This will be the base of the lampshade that defines the shape. The dimensions of the base are selected at will. The threads will need to be glued, for this you need PVA glue. It is poured into a container, diluted with water in a 1: 1 ratio.

Other glue can be used. It is important that it becomes transparent after drying. These are WB-29 from TYTAN Professional and D2 glue for carpentry work. If you will be using any of these types of glue, read the instructions.

Draw a circle on the ball or ball, which will be slightly smaller than the lamp holder. Draw a larger circle on the opposite side - this will be the lower edge of the plafond. Now everything is ready, we can proceed.

We coat the threads with glue and wind them around the ball in a chaotic manner. It is more convenient to do this if the glue is poured into the container - you can lower the entire skein there, and just slowly pull the thread. With glue in a tube, everything is not so comfortable: you have to coat areas up to a meter long, wind up, smear again. Time takes much longer. This is if you use not PVA. But on the other hand, the products turn out to be more rigid and do not sag, do not change shape over time, as can happen with filament lampshades on PVA.

When winding threads on a ball, carefully go around the drawn circles. If you accidentally climbed into the "forbidden territory", we simply move the threads, forming an even (more or less even) edge. When the threads run out or you decide that there is enough density, the process can be stopped. Thread the edge of the thread between others. All. Then we coat the ball with wound threads again with glue (PVA can be poured) and leave it to dry (at least 2 days). To prevent the ball from rolling, we find a bowl or saucepan and use it as a stand.

The last step is to blow off the ball or ball. If the ball has a nipple, press on it with a thin wire, releasing air. We take out the deflated ball. That's all, you can thread the lamp inside and test the lampshade.

The technology is the same, but the look is very different ...

Using the technology described above, you can make not only round shades. Rectangular, triangular, trapezoidal. Choose a base that is easy to remove, wrap threads dipped in glue, braid, even sticks, newspaper tubes, etc. After drying, remove the base and now, you have made a lampshade with your own hands. A couple of examples in the photo below.

You can also use sticks…. Only wrap the ball with cling film and use not PVA glue, but transparent joiner's

It is a paste-like polymer clay in a tube, which was applied to a milk bag, then dried and the bag was removed ...

Creative homemade shades for lamps, floor lamps and chandeliers

You simply wonder why people don't make beautiful and unusual things. A plafond made of a cup, grater, bottle, beer or glass can, metal parts and rings from beer cans ... It seems that everything can be used ...

Old sieve shade ... stylish

Candlesticks turn into lamps ... without lampshades

You won't tell in life, but these lampshades are made of hooks used to open metal cans for drinks and canned food ... if you paint them, it will be even more interesting

Not sure what to do with grandma's crystal? Make plafonds out of it ...