Do-it-yourself rough floor in a wooden bath. Bath floor what is better to make of: we understand the nuances and choose the best option

How to make the correct floor in the bath? It is quite an urgent question if you decide to build the indicated room on your personal plot. In this article, we will tell you about several options for flooring for a bath.

Such knowledge will be very useful in the case of independent execution of all installation manipulations.

Choosing a material

Advice!
It should be noted that the floor in the bath almost never warms up to temperatures exceeding thirty degrees.
Due to this characteristic, this element of the room can be made of any building material that is suitable for this role.
However, the coating itself is categorically not recommended to be made of synthetic materials, since when heated they can emit various toxins into the atmosphere.

The most important point in the construction of the floor is to ensure the unimpeded outflow of water from the bathhouse.

Wood

Let's start a conversation about installation with how to properly make a floor in a bath, using wood for this. The most important thing here is to choose the most suitable type of building material. Experts advise conifers, as they are not susceptible to the harmful effects of moisture.

The rules for laying the floor are as follows:

1. Brick posts are installed on the ground, the height of which should be thirty centimeters, at least. The sides of the rectangular section of these elements should be equal to a quarter of a meter.
2. On top of the aforementioned posts, wooden logs are mounted, serving as a support for the flooring.
3. Edged boards are laid on the crossbars, the thickness of which can vary from two and a half to three and a half centimeters. The design is shown in detail in the photo:

The steam room can be equipped with a leaking or non-leaking floor. The first ensures the outflow of water directly through the available slots. The second is equipped with special channels that direct the liquid to the sewer.

The leaking floor is quite convenient in that the floorboards are laid on top of the log without fixing. This makes it easy to remove them when they need to dry, or when the subfloor needs to be cleaned.

As for the non-leaking floor, here the boards are fixed thoroughly, which implies their dismantling only in case of expiration of the service life.

When installing such a floor, a prerequisite is the careful processing of all components with special means. Besides, .

The boards are knocked down quite tightly. Along with this, a certain slope is made to direct the water in. At the end of the drain, a reservoir for receiving liquid is installed.

The photo shows both versions of the wood bath floor. In the photo of a non-leaking floor, you can clearly see the drain hole - an essential element of this design.

Clay and concrete

The advantage of a clay floor is its simplicity. However, water turns clay into mud..

1. At a distance of half a meter from the foundation, it is necessary to make a recess. The height of its walls should be equal to five tens of centimeters.
2. The bottom of this depression is covered with a bedding consisting of gravel or sand.
3. A concrete screed is made on the constructed bedding.

Advice!
The best option is to pour the screed over the crushed stone litter, on which a mesh of reinforcement was previously laid

In this case, tiles can be used as a coating (photo). Or you can leave bare concrete.

Thermal insulation

As mentioned above, a non-leaking wooden floor must be sufficiently insulated with good quality. This is due, first of all, to the fact that the specified element warms up poorly in comparison with other surfaces, as well as the air itself in the steam room. Of course, this does not mean that you will freeze, however, some discomfort, upon contact with this surface, will be very noticeable.

It is possible to insulate a wooden floor only with building materials that are not able to absorb water, and are also not susceptible to freezing.

Thermal insulation material (it can be polystyrene, expanded polystyrene or other similar building material) is placed between the transverse logs, see photo:

It lends itself to insulation. In this case, thermal insulation is laid between two layers of concrete. Glass wool, polystyrene foam and some other building materials can be used as insulation.

Draining

When building a floor in a bath with your own hands, it is important to know that it is necessary to drain the drains at a sufficient distance from the steam room. The indicated value should not be less than three meters.

1. At a distance of fifty centimeters from the foundation of the room, a hole is digging, one and a half meters deep, no less.
2. Then you need to dig a trench leading from the previously mentioned hole to the outside.
3. At the end of this trench, it is required to build a special well, in which the spent water will accumulate. Its volume should not be less than one and a half cubic meters.

1. The bottom of all the indicated recesses must be coated with clay. The thickness of the clay layer should be ten centimeters. This layer should be thoroughly leveled and smoothed out. The work must be done in such a way that the water from the trench can flow freely into the well without the help of any technical means. Or you can use plastic pipes as in the photo:

1. Inside the paired room, the trench and the pit must be filled up to half with gravel, and sand must be poured over it.
2. Outside, both the trench and the well are half filled with rubble, and then, previously extracted, with earth, which must be carefully compacted.

The above is an example of the simplest drainage system. But there are also more complex options.

Conclusion

Remember that any floor should have a slight slope in order to ensure the movement of water towards the drain.

The price of a bath floor depends on the materials and the way the work is done. If you do everything yourself, you can save a lot.

The video in this article will give you a clearer idea of \u200b\u200bhow to properly fill the floor in the bath, so that it is of high quality in all respects.

How to make the correct floor in the bath? What type of construction is more acceptable? Which is better - concrete or wood floor? This article will tell you about this and much more, in which you will find very useful tips.

Classic old baths were heated by a stove. Neither insulation nor, moreover, heating of floors was even implied in them. The floors were earthen. In the best case, wooden flooring was made on them. There was no ventilation in the room, and the bathhouse was heated "in black", expelling combustion products through a doorway or a small window located under the very eaves.

Modern construction has a lot of techniques and principles for the construction of structures of various sizes using various forms and methods of warming bases using ultra-technological materials obtained as a result of the irrepressible growth of scientific and technological progress using nanotechnology.

But the basic principle of the construction of baths with a full set of internal premises remained the same. Is that, paying tribute to the current moment, in addition to the steam room, washing room and dressing room, new relaxation zones, a pool, a billiard room and some other rooms have been added. But modern projects of bath buildings completely depend on the whims and wishes of the customer, as they say: "For every pocket."

Object construction

The process of building your own steam room is multi-stage, which includes several significant stages. The arrangement of floors is a separate stage, which includes not only the installation of floors, but also the device of ventilation, sewerage, hydro, steam and thermal insulation.

Much depends on the quality of building and finishing materials, as well as on the chosen technology for carrying out construction work. There are many subtleties for laying floors and their components in a bathhouse. More than one volume of recommendations from leading builders has been written on the correct arrangement of bath floors, depending on their varieties.

Floor laying

The issue of paramount importance for creating a room project is the choice of material for the flooring. For a modern private bath, today the most acceptable options are two types of structures being built - a wooden device and a concrete foundation. Each of them has its own positive aspects, as well as some nuances of technical difficulties when creating.

A classic of the genre is the creation of cozy and environmentally friendly wooden floors. The main advantage is the speed of their construction and installation. In addition, it is believed that natural wood brings coziness to the room, a special flavor and fills the room with life-giving power.

Varieties of designs. General information

By their design features, wooden floors are divided into two types:

• Leaking

They allow water to freely penetrate through the ceiling, flowing into a specially equipped underground. For their device, floorboards are used, laid on the same level so that gaps or cracks with a width of at least 5 mm are formed between them so that the tree swollen from water does not allow the formation of congestion. Water flowing into the underground is absorbed by the soil or artificially drained from under the foundation.

The biggest disadvantage is the impossibility of carrying out measures to insulate the floor, since the structure is removable and is taken out for drying after each reception of procedures. flowing type, as a rule, are arranged in baths of seasonal operation.

• Not leaking

The name speaks for itself. Water does not seep between floor slots, but is collected and drained from the room. For this, the floors are made with a slight inclination towards the water drain hole, which is equipped with a drain pipe leading towards the pit and the sewer network.

A construction of this type requires additional installation of a rough floor with the organization of an insulation cushion, consisting of several layers. This method of flooring is somewhat costly, both physical and financial. But with the right device, compliance with all the rules and regulations of technical equipment, the result is a practical, warm and high-quality flooring that can be used at any time of the year.

Racks

Wooden flooring is quite affordable for self-assembly. To do this, you need logs or bars, 150x150 mm in size. They serve as a support slab to which the deck is attached. To give the lags strength, they are laid on brick or reinforced concrete pillars. In size, the posts should be at least 150 mm thick, so that the width of the area under the laid logs is slightly larger.

In height, they should correspond to the upper line of the foundation, if the tape option is used. When installing a columnar, or foundation on screw piles, the logs should be on the same level with the embedded crown in such a way that the upper line of the supports coincides with the upper horizon of the beams.

Before starting any installation, all wooden parts of the structure are treated with protective equipment, in particular with an antiseptic at least 2 times and covered with waterproofing. Roofing material, roofing felt, bitumen or glassine are used as waterproofing materials.

Underground

Before the installation of an underground with a flowing type of floor, the composition of the soil is initially investigated. If it is composed of light, rapidly absorbing water rocks, such as sandstones or sandy loam, then for the subfloor it is enough to dig a hole, at least 400 mm deep and fill it with filter material. Crushed stone is used as a filter, against which the water flow breaks up and quickly seeps to the drainage layer.

When the soil is folded with clayey rocks, which practically do not allow water to pass through, a kind of hydraulic structure is established underground. It consists of a tank and pipes leading to the pit. The outflow of water from it occurs either by gravity or with the help of auxiliary means embedded in the structure.

The underground, with a non-leaking type of overlap, is fully equipped to drain waste water using hydraulic structures. Also, great attention is paid to the floor ventilation device. To do this, leave gaps of at least 150 mm to the laid logs or make corresponding holes in the rough floor, into which plastic pipes with a diameter of 50 to 150 mm are mounted.

Lags and flooring

The structure of the flowing type is built quickly, not taking up either effort or time. The first board is rigidly attached to the wall with nails, the rest are laid relative to it with a step of at least 35 mm to form cracks through which water will leave. This design does not require specific methods of laying the logs, so they can be laid from any wall of the room.

If, for example, we are doing with a non-flowing type structure, then it is necessary to create a slight slope towards the drainage of the water.

The device of a non-leaking structure begins with the implementation of a base overlap - a rough flooring on which an insulation cushion is attached. It includes a multi-layer system of steam, hydro and heat insulating layers on which a finishing coating is laid from tightly fitted edged or grooved boards. Special attention must be paid to the groove position of the grooved board. It should be directed towards the inside of the bath. Fastening is carried out with nails or wood grouse screws.

• concrete floor

A concrete floor has a number of positive qualities. It is not afraid of large temperature fluctuations, is not subject to destruction by putrefactive bacteria and is easy to maintain. The service life of a concrete floor significantly exceeds the working time of wooden floors.

The main point for the installation of a concrete floor is soil preparation. To do this, thoroughly ram the soil and form a crushed stone cushion, at least 150 mm thick, which is impregnated with bitumen. The purpose of the pillow is the distribution of loads during the operation of the building.

Since any concrete structure by its physical characteristics is a rather cold object, since concrete has a rather low coefficient of thermal conductivity, this floor must be insulated. This operation can be performed using one of two methods:

1. Concrete in two layers

The base is laid in two layers, between which there is an insulation cushion. To organize a two-layer type of base, the most key point is the correct preparation of the concrete solution.

The bottom layer, 150 mm high, consists of large fractions of crushed stone, conglomerate or broken brick, at least 35 mm in diameter, filled with a cement-sand mixture. With large volumes of construction, the territory is divided along guides into a meter wide strip, which are subsequently simultaneously filled with a screed. The screed itself with this option turns out to be quite smooth and beautiful.

To form the upper layer, a fine and very fine fraction of crushed stone is used. The main point in the construction of the second layer is its careful compaction and maintenance of the concrete that is gaining strength. Therefore, for several days, the base must be moistened - cover the surface with wet sawdust.

1. Formation of one layer

On the upper part of the base, a layer of thermal insulation is formed, which allows the arrangement of floors with a wooden covering, or the use of electric or water heating systems for the flooring.

Concrete floor insulation

Regardless of what type of insulation will be used, it is laid on a prepared waterproofing layer without air vents with carefully sealed joints of the sheets. Most often, roofing material is used for these purposes. Seamless waterproofing can be used, such as liquid rubber, which is very easy to install and allows even hard-to-reach areas to be insulated. But before applying liquid insulators, it is recommended to prime the entire surface.

The process of warming is started as soon as the lower insulating layer is ready. Insulation materials of various types are used as heaters:

• fine fraction of expanded clay, or expanded clay sand combined with expanded clay gravel;
• boiler slag;
• slab mineral or basalt wool;
• polpan or expanded polystyrene made of modern materials;
• foam concrete.

All of them have a number of advantages, but are not devoid of some disadvantages.

To reach the required thermal conductivity threshold, the boiler slag embankment must significantly exceed the thickness of the expanded clay gravel layer. Despite the fact that the cost is much higher than the price of slag, it is better to use it as thermal insulation, since expanded clay is an environmentally friendly product.

The use of expanded polystyrene is limited by the fact that rodents happily settle in its thickness.

Foam concrete is an excellent insulation material, but it has a very serious drawback - it absorbs water in large volumes, since it is a hygroscopic material.

Work order

Before starting the installation of floors, it is necessary to treat all the elements of wooden structures several times with antiseptic preparations. In addition, if the bath is arranged on a strip foundation, it is necessary to treat its entire surface with liquid tar and lay a double layer of roofing material.

After these manipulations, the following stages of work are coming:

• laying of underlays;
• installation and installation of lags;
• laying rough floor;
• work on laying the insulation cushion;
• rolling of the finished floor.

Fine wood floor

The finishing is done with great care and accuracy. At the beginning of work, it is necessary to install a two-centimeter rail along a short wall. It is fastened with self-tapping screws and serves as a starting point or base rail for the ends of the floorboards.

The first board is laid with a longitudinal edge with a spike to the wall at a distance of 20 mm. Self-tapping screws cut into the attachment points to the joists flush with the working surface.

All other floorboards are laid in relation to the first, high quality reinforced floorboard. The spike should fit into the groove freely enough. The floorboards are adjusted to each other in such a way that a continuous surface is obtained. To do this, at the points of attachment to the logs, the boards are tapped with a hammer on a special bar, driving them until the gap disappears, after pressing it with its end to the base rail.

It is believed that with this method of installation, the floorboard may burst. It depends on the quality of the board itself and the presence of knots in it. Cracking can also occur when strengthening it with self-tapping screws. Therefore, it is recommended that before sinking the self-tapping screw into the wood, pre-drill an entrance for it at an angle of 45 degrees.

The reinforcement of the floorboard is carried out to each log using a screwdriver, pushing the screw head in such a way that it does not interfere with the installation of the next floorboard.

The last floorboard will most likely need trimming along its entire length. Here you must not forget and leave a gap of 20 mm to the wall. To do this, you will need to prepare additional blocks or wooden wedges that are driven in between the floorboard and the wall. The final fastening is made in the same way as the starting fastener.

Video about the correct bath device

A distance of at least 150 mm must be maintained between the internal filling of the foundation and the subfloor to create a ventilation space in the underground.

Walking noise is damped by sound-insulating fiberglass pads 100x100x4 mm. They are usually applied to the waterproofing layer before installing the logs.

All wooden structures that were opened during installation work should be subjected to additional treatment with antiseptic drugs.

The installation of the floorboards should be carried out in such a way that the flow of water flows across the board.

All structures must be made of wood, at least 15% moisture, in other words, well dried, in order to avoid the formation of twisting, drying, delamination and other types of deformation of wooden floors.

The bathhouse is a specific structure, for the construction of which special requirements are imposed. When building a Russian bath, it is important to take into account two main features of this building: high humidity and high temperature. The floor in the bathhouse is the coldest place, and the materials for it should only be of natural origin. If they contain synthetic components, then when heated they will release toxic substances. The floor in the steam room has its own characteristics, since this part of the bath is characterized by the highest temperatures. How to make a floor in a steam room?

Primary requirements

Bath floors must meet certain safety requirements. It is necessary to choose a covering for bath pilaf taking into account the indicators of injury safety. It is better to refuse a tiled covering, as a slippery floor surface can lead to unwanted injuries. The floor structure is formed taking into account the high humidity of the room. If you prefer to see a boardwalk in the steam room of your bath, then it should be done only from conifers, resistant to both moisture and decay processes.

The floor in the steam room should preferably be solid. There is no need to create a leaky structure in this section of the bath. The coating may not have cracks, but it is necessary to descend with a slope towards the drain, which is located above the drainage pit. Experts recommend covering the edges of the floor with a waterproof skirting board. Such a plinth will act as a protective barrier and protect the wooden floorboards from decay. The lower edge of the walls under the skirting board will be closed so that moisture cannot penetrate under the wall cladding.

Removable lattice panels are often used as an additional covering in Russian baths. Such panels can also be placed in the steam room. Before use, wooden lattices are impregnated with antiseptic agents and dried well after each procedure. Removable panels, if necessary, can be easily replaced with new ones, as they are inexpensive.

The tile floor in the steam room of the Russian bath is not entirely appropriate, not only because of the slippery surface. This coating is very hot, so you can burn your feet from the tiled floor in the steam room. The use of wooden trellises easily solves this problem.

If you want to make a concrete floor in the bath, then you must first think over its insulation. Mineral or basalt wool is most often used as insulation. As a cushion for insulation, a base of rubble and sand is poured, after which they are engaged in hydro and vapor barrier.

For long-term operation of floors in a steam bath during construction, ventilation holes in the foundation should be provided. They will provide the supply of fresh air necessary to dry the floor, prevent decay processes and eliminate unpleasant odors.

For the flooring in the steam room, choose natural materials, the use of linoleum, laminate or other similar flooring in the bath is not allowed: when their surface is heated, you can get poisoned by the emitted toxic elements. Wood processing chemicals should also be used with great care. The best option would be to completely abandon them, if this cannot be done, then pay attention to the funds produced specifically for such purposes.

You can make the floor in the steam room of the bath with your own hands, the main thing is to choose not only good building materials for the floor, but also to choose high-quality fasteners. All parts must be resistant to moisture and high temperatures. Regular nails will quickly become rusty and leave dirty streaks on the wood, and hot fasteners can even cause burns.

Rough floor

The bath floor should consist of rough and finish coatings. Modern floor designs for bath rooms involve a combination of a concrete base and an upper plank flooring. The old methods, including the wooden base, are a thing of the past. This method of arranging the floors of the bathhouse is not effective due to the rapid deterioration of the rough coating from moisture and decay.

The concrete screed for the floor in the steam room is made at an angle to the drain. The baths do not provide for the drainage of water from this room, since it is already in the washing compartment: it makes no sense to organize another drain. Work begins with the laying of boards on the supporting beams and the laying of a waterproofing layer made of polyethylene film. The film is covered in several layers, the walls of the steam room are pasted over with damper tape around the perimeter.

The concrete floor in the steam room will expand under the influence of high temperatures, the damper tape, acting as a shock absorber, will protect the walls from mechanical stress. All work can be done by hand, the concrete base is poured according to the principle of a standard screed. The solution is poured onto a prepared base to a height of 10 cm; for the strength of such a screed, a reinforcing mesh should be laid before pouring.

After the concrete has dried, it is necessary to lay a layer of thermal insulation materials. The floor in the steam room does not participate in heating the bath, and the concrete base is characterized by a low temperature. Experts advise installing a layer of polystyrene on top of the concrete base, which will reflect the heat back into the steam room.

When the insulation is fixed, you can proceed to installing the beacons and pouring the finishing screed. Beacons are installed taking into account the slope of the surface to the hole for the water drain. The final filling is done with a standard cement mortar with the addition of liquid glass: this substance will become an additional binding element and protection from moisture.

Wood flooring

The final flooring in the bath can be different, you can leave the concrete screed or cover it with tiles or porcelain stoneware. In these conditions, during the operation of the structure, for a comfortable visit to the bath, you will have to use wooden gratings. The most optimal finishing option can be recognized as a wooden floor, such a coating is appropriate to use both in the steam room of a bath, and in the washing department. Plank floors are the best solution for a sauna. They are made of environmentally friendly material, pleasant to look at and retain the very spirit of the Russian bath.

Boards before laying are pre-treated with special compounds for baths. The impregnation will protect the wood from water and the spread of fungus and mold. Then logs are installed on the rough surface. Usually they are attached to the walls of the log house with corners or staples. Experts mount them in the masonry even during the construction of the walls. To understand how the joints of the lag with the walls should look like, it is recommended to consider a photo of the process of arranging a wooden floor in a bath.

Logs must be installed strictly horizontally; during work, it is necessary to constantly check with a level. It is not required to make a slope of the final finished floor; the final coating will be installed on even logs. The steam room floor is exposed to moisture. In order for the water to drain onto the concrete base, the boards should be installed with some gaps. The optimal distance can be considered a value of 0.5-1 cm - such gaps will not create inconvenience when visiting the bath, and the water will flow freely down. When leaving gaps, it is necessary to take into account that after several visits to the paired board, it will slightly expand under the influence of humidity and temperature, and the distance between them will noticeably decrease.

The boards are fixed to the logs with self-tapping screws. The caps of the self-tapping screws should not protrude on top of the board, so they should be sunk deeper into the wood, and then sealed with a special heat-resistant compound.

A wooden floor in a steam room with your own hands can be made in a few days, but making a concrete base takes much longer. If you comply with all the requirements for arranging the floor in a steam bath, you will receive a high-quality coating that is resistant to the effects of specific room conditions and is ready for long-term use.

In order for the floor in the steam room to last as long as possible, you need to know a few important points. Any work requires an action plan, therefore, before starting work, it is strongly recommended that you draw up a drawing of a future bath. In the process, it is necessary to determine the parameters of the structure and its premises, the location and dimensions of the main internal structures. Wooden flooring with a concrete base takes up a lot of space and reaches at least 20 cm in height.

How to make a reliable floor in a steam room? In order for the floor to serve you as long as possible, the wood for its manufacture must be as dry as possible. If the moisture content of the boards is high, then the entire flooring will lead after the first use of the steam room for its intended purpose. The wood must be well saturated with special protective substances, sometimes the procedure can be repeated more than once. The better protected the material, the more it will last.

When installing wooden flooring, gaps should remain not only between the boards, but also between the flooring itself and the wall. The reason for this arrangement of the boards is the same: over time, the wood will swell and rest against the wall. To avoid distortions of the walls and floor, experts advise leaving a couple of centimeters around the perimeter of the steam room.

It is better to refuse any synthetic materials and chemicals containing toxic substances. The harmful elements released during heating can ruin your health, and the bath is a place where both the soul and the body are healed.

The floor in the bath is distinguished by its structure only in the steam room and the washing room. The rest of the bath rooms are operated in the usual humidity regime.

In the article, we will consider in detail the device of floors in the steam room and tell you how to lay them with your own hands.

Choice of floor design for steam room and sink

Wooden floors are the usual solution. Their main advantage is the healthy properties of wood, environmental friendliness and practicality. Despite the relatively low service life of wooden floors in a steam room, they are not so difficult to change, and the total costs will still be lower than the arrangement of a concrete floor.

In the steam room and the washing room, a fair amount of water is constantly on the floor, which should be discharged into a pit, a drainage system, or simply into the ground under the bath. Structurally, to solve this problem, wood floors are divided into leaking and non-leaking.

The leaking floor provides for a gap between the boards. Water seeps freely into the underground space. Further, it is absorbed into the soil, if its filtering capacity allows it, or it is diverted into a pit, for which a clay castle or a concrete base is formed with a slope to one side.

The second option is a non-leaking floor in damp bath rooms. Such a floor is made with a non-removable covering and is replaced only at the end of its service life. The slope for collecting and draining water is provided here along the surface of the floor covering towards the tray or funnel.

The floor with a removable cover can and even should be dried regularly, after disassembling, while the bath is not in use. Fixed floors, due to their susceptibility to rotting at high humidity, are completely replaced approximately every 7–8 years.

The concrete base under the leaking wooden floor in the bath significantly increases the durability of the structure, and also affects the comfort - even after many years there will be no musty smell from under the floor. However, the arrangement of a concrete base significantly increases the cost of arranging a bath, so if the mother soil under the building has a high drainage capacity, then it is easier to get by with the preparation of the filter layer.

Materials and tools

To cover the floor in the steam room and washing room, wooden elements from deciduous (linden, aspen) and coniferous (pine, larch, cedar) wood are used. All wooden floor structures must be treated with antiseptics.

For the floor device you will need:

• wooden beam for logs 50 (100) x100 mm;
• floorboard 35 mm thick;
• cement M300, M400;
• medium fraction sand;
• expanded clay for the thermal insulation layer;
• ordinary clay brick for posts for logs;
• waterproofing (roofing material).

It is important to choose the right wood protection impregnation. It should be suitable specifically for baths because of the high temperature and humidity. The easiest way to treat wood is to impregnate it with sunflower oil in two steps.

Tool

The floors in the steam room are arranged using a tool for laying the concrete base on the ground and the wooden floor covering of the bath.

Tools for working with concrete. 1. Rake-trowel. 2. Grater for cement. 3. Trowel. 4. Ironer. 5. Corner trowel. 6. Rule. 7. Bubble level. 8. Pendulum profile

Woodworking tools. 1. Building corner. 2. Brace. 3. Hammer. 4. Electric plane. 5. Clamps. 6. Hacksaw for wood. 7. Bubble level. 8. Screwdriver. 9. Drill. 10. Circular saw machine

Leaky floor made of individual bevelled boards

To prepare the subgrade for the floor structure, it is imperative to remove the fertile layer, no matter how thick it is.

Leaking floor on top of a concrete base. 1. Ground. 2. Expanded clay concrete. 3. Cement screed. 4. Chute. 5. Brick column. 6. Waterproofing. 7. Lags. 8. Floor board

Leaking floor on the ground with filtering capacity. 1. Ground. 2. Sand pillow. 3. Gravel. 4. The foundation of the support pillar. 5. Brick post. 6. Waterproofing. 7. Lags. 8. Floor board

It is important at this stage to decide how and where the water will be drained outside the building. For this, a tray (200x150h mm) is provided in the concrete base, into which water flows. The bottom of the tray is made with a slope towards the drain pit (30x30x25h). It is better to locate the sump closer to the place of the external water collection. From the sump, water flows through the drain pipe into the water collector.

The slope of the surface for the drainage of water is 2–3 cm per meter towards the tray. It is created either by leveling the ground under the floor, or by filling (sand and gravel) under the concrete base. The overall floor level in the steam room and the washing room is reduced by 30 mm than in adjacent rooms with normal humidity.

A sand and gravel pad 10-15 cm thick is laid on the tamped soil. It is necessary to fill and tamp the sand in layers of no more than 5 cm, wetting it with water. Next, a heat-insulating layer of expanded clay concrete is laid. Roughly the consumption of raw materials per 1 m 3 of concrete is:

1. without sand:
   • cement M300, 400 - 250 kg;
   • expanded clay - 720 kg;
   • water - 100-150 liters.
2. with sand:
   • cement M300, 400 - 230 kg;
   • expanded clay - 440 kg;
   • sand - 195 kg;
   • water - 100-130 liters.

It is best to prepare a concrete solution in a concrete mixer or order

It is permissible to use another light filler (shungizite, perlite, expanded vermiculite, crushed stone of porous rocks, etc.). The thickness of the expanded clay concrete layer can be taken as 150 mm. The concrete is laid in strips no more than 2.5 m wide on a base moistened with water. To limit the bands, slats are installed, they also serve as beacons to determine the thickness of the layer. The thicker the insulation layer, the warmer the floor.

The slope towards the gutter or funnel for collecting and draining water must be observed

A cement-sand screed 40 mm thick is laid on a layer of expanded clay concrete. The composition of the solution (M100) cement / sand: one to three. Before the mortar sets, it is necessary to iron the surface with cement milk. Cement is mixed with water to form a liquid sour cream. The surface is covered with an even thin layer of the mixture. This is done to increase the waterproofing of the concrete base.

Under the logs, brick posts made of solid clay ordinary bricks (250x250 mm) on a cement-sand mortar are installed. The distance between the posts is 0.8–1.0 m in the center. 2 layers of roofing material are laid on their surface. Next, logs are laid. The floorboards of the leaking floor are chamfered at the edges for water drainage. The gap between the boards is 5–6 mm.

Important! Do not use silicate bricks, hollow stones, silicate blocks in damp and wet rooms.

This floor is made removable in order to be able to dry the floorboard to increase its service life. Boards can move when walking on them, they are often grabbed with nails, planting nests up to 5 mm deep are prepared in logs for them, or spacer strips are stuffed on the boards along the edges.

Leaking floor from removable shields

Steam and soap room flooring can be made from removable wooden panels. The boards of the shield are laid with a gap on transverse bars of 50x50 mm. The size of the boards is taken for ease of removal and drying.

The structure of the floor is the same: compacted soil, compacted sand and gravel mixture, insulation - expanded clay concrete 150 mm thick. Ceramic floor tiles are laid on a cement-sand mortar 10-15 mm thick. The floor has a slope that is directed towards the drain pan. Removable shields are installed on the tiles so that the lower bars are located along the water drain.

Sequence of works for non-leaking floor

A non-leaking wooden floor implies a continuous flooring of grooved boards along the joists. First, the location of the support posts is determined. They are located at a distance of 0.8–1.0 m from each other, measuring the distances along the centers. A concrete pad 100 mm thick and 70 mm wider than the size of the column is prepared for each post.

Solid, leak-proof floor on top of the ground. 1. Ground. 2. Sand pillow. 3. Expanded clay or other bulk insulation material. 4. The foundation of the support pillar. 5. Brick column. 6. Waterproofing. 7. Lags. 8. Floor board

A continuous leak-proof floor must be installed with a slope. The gutter can be located in one of the logs located close to the wall. 1. Ground. 2. Sand pillow. 3. Expanded clay or other bulk insulation material. 4. Brick post on a concrete base. 5. Chute. 6. Floor board

Supports for logs are made of concrete or ordinary clay brick on a cement-sand mortar. The size of the posts is 250x250 mm. The height of the supports must correspond to the upper edge of the embedded beam (columnar foundation), or to the top of the strip foundation.

The direction of laying the logs should be perpendicular to the direction of the water flow. Wooden elements are necessarily insulated from concrete or brick with two layers of waterproofing (roofing felt). Expanded clay bedding with a thickness of 15 cm is made on the compacted soil.

A variant of the non-insulated floor is shown in the figure. In this case, the boards rest on one side of the wall log, on the other - on the log-groove. The top of the tray is covered with a wooden ladder.

The insulated floor assumes logs with cranial bars, to which the subfloor is attached. Next, a vapor barrier is laid (membrane, polyethylene, polypropylene film), a layer of heat insulator (mineral wool plate, foam plastic) is laid on it. Roll waterproofing (roofing felt) is laid along the thermal insulation layer.

Insulated non-leaking floor. 1. Soil, sand cushion and bulk insulation. 2. Brick post. 3. Logs and rough wood floor. 4. Insulation. 5. Logs and finishing floor, laid with a slope towards the gutter. 6. Chute. 7. A vapor-permeable membrane is laid on top of the subfloor, waterproofing is lined on top of the thermal insulation layer

There should be at least 3 cm clearance between the clean floor and the waterproofing. The size of the lag in this case is 100x170 mm. Skull bar - 40x40 mm. For lags, only a solid bar must be used.

Grooved boards are laid on the logs. Boards are sewn with nails or self-tapping screws to the logs through the tongue. This method of joining the boards together is called "parquet". Its advantage is the absence of hats on the surface of the board.

Each board is attached to all logs. They should fit snugly against one another. The gap between the boards should not exceed 1 mm. Staples or clamps are used to rally the boards. Fastening nails are used 2–2.5 times longer than the thickness of the boards. The end of the plank floor does not reach the wall by 10–20 mm. In the future, the gap is covered with a plinth.

Water draining from the floor surface occurs due to the floor slope in two directions. A hole is made at the drain and a siphon is installed. The slope of the floor can be made by adjusting the height of the log.

Despite the high temperatures in the steam room, it rarely exceeds 30 degrees below, but the floor is constantly humid. Therefore, when arranging the floor in such conditions, there are some peculiarities.

In this article we will tell you about how the floor is made in the bath on the ground, the preparation process and the scheme for laying a wooden floor.

Types of floors for a bath

In most cases, it is the floor made of wood that is chosen for: it is not slippery, costs less, and is easy to install.

Concrete types are usually chosen for public saunas, since intensive use would require changing the tree every 2-3 years.

• A leaking wooden floor is made in cases where it is necessary for moisture to freely pass through the gaps between the boards and be removed from the subfloor to the outside... Compared to other types, this structure has a simple construction technology. This option is suitable only for warm regions, since it does not have thermal insulation.
• Non-leaking wooden floors are made of grooved boards tightly joined together... The slope of the floor in the bathhouse is made towards the drain ladder, which will ensure the removal of moisture into the sewage system or drain pit.
  Such a cake of the floor in the bath allows you to make waterproofing, vapor barrier and insulation, which sets it apart from the previous version.
  In the steam room, it makes no sense to make a leak-proof floor, since the price of the structure increases greatly, and there will not be much water there. For the convenience of cleaning, you can make a two-sided slope of the floor.
• Concrete floor screed has an advantage over wood types in high durability... The screed will serve you 30-50 years, and the wood less than 10 years.
  Although the costs for its device go out and more, in terms of operational characteristics, concrete strongly beats wood.

Floor construction

As a rule, the installation of the floor in the bathhouse in the steam room is done at an elevation relative to the zero mark of the finished floor. It is enough to raise it by 7-10 cm and the heat will be kept better in the steam room.

In the washing department, on the contrary, the floor height in the bath is made lower so that water does not penetrate into other rooms.

Basic materials

It is believed that in the question of which floor is better in the bath, larch is beyond competition. In terms of hardness and wear resistance, it is comparable to oak, and it only becomes stronger from moisture. The only drawback of using it is its high cost.

Similar pine or spruce boards will cost 2-3 times cheaper. If it is possible to use larch for reasonable money, then it is better to choose it. If not, then you can buy grooved boards of birch, pine, spruce, fir, alder. Subfloor - in the bath you can make pine to save money.

An important rule to follow is to lay only dry boards. Raw wood during operation will greatly change its size and shape.

The thicker the board is, the more it will deform. Planks 21-25 mm thick will resize the least, but they will sag. To fix this, logging can be done more frequently. The best option is boards 35 mm with a width of 12 cm.

For insulation, mineral wool and expanded polystyrene are most often used.

Hydro and vapor barrier is made of a vapor barrier membrane, such as Izospan. Its advantage is that it allows moisture to pass through only in one direction. Due to this, on the one hand, moisture does not pass inside, and on the other hand, excess condensate and steam are removed. This allows you to keep the insulation always dry and it does not lose its characteristics.

Also in this case we will use:

• Bar 70 * 100 mm;
• Lags 50 * 180 mm;
• Skull bars 40 * 40 mm;
• Plywood or board trims 20-25 mm thick to make a double floor.

Dismantling the old floor

If you are replacing an old covering, then first of all you need to dismantle the old floor of the frame bath.

• You will need to remove the top layer of soil, about 25 centimeters, to get rid of the fungus that has fallen into the ground. Old boards should be burned immediately.

Advice!
Concrete walls can be heated with a construction gas cannon to destroy all fungus.
Additionally, it must be treated with Anti-Mold to remove the remaining pores of the fungus.

• An elastic coating waterproofing is made below the floor level.
• A layer of sand backfill is laid on the ground, leveled in level, carefully rammed.
• Then fiberglass and Izospan vapor barrier are laid on the sand. From above they need to be sprinkled with another sandy layer. This is to protect the underside of the floorboards from moisture, fungus and decay. Insulation sheets must be glued together with tape.

Advice!
If a rat hole was found in the foundation, then it must be sealed with concrete with the addition of liquid and broken glass.

Pie and gender features

In this example, the floors in the bath are used on the ground. To get the desired elevation level, 70 * 100 beams are mounted on the posts before laying the logs.

They will take on some of the load, distribute it evenly, increase the strength and simplify the leveling of the base.

• First of all, waterproofing from two layers of roofing material is laid on the foundation and brick supports.
• Then the retaining beams are laid. Their edges will lie on the foundation, and 1-3 columns support them in the center.
• On top of the beams, logs are attached to the corners. They should be trimmed on both sides to a center length of 2 cm to create a slope.
• Cranial bars are nailed to the bottom of the lag, forming an inverted T. They are needed for fixing the sub-floor, so there is no need for special strength, any screws or nails will do.
• The sub-floor boards are laid, and a vapor barrier membrane with an overlap of 20-30 cm is attached on top of them. Then it will need to be glued together with the waterproofing of the walls.

• On the subfloor and closed with a vapor barrier. It is attached to the logs with a stapler. The joints are glued with tape.
• At the end, the flooring of the finished floor from the grooved board is attached. To hide the attachment points, they are fastened with self-tapping screws into a groove at an angle of 45 degrees.

Note!
Provide a 2-3 cm ventilation gap under the finished floor.
To do this, you can use higher logs, or stuff additional counter-lattice bars on them after attaching the vapor barrier to the insulation.

Manufacturing of retaining posts

To exclude the deflection of the support beams from a high load, you need to make additional supports (chairs) in weak places. Naturally, the weakest points will be the center of the beams and the place under the oven. Chairs can be made of wood, brick, concrete.

Instructions on how you can make concrete posts with your own hands:

• To make concrete posts, mark the places where they will be installed and dig holes 40 cm deep.
• At the bottom of the pit, you need to pour a 25 cm layer of sand and gravel for the substrate and compact them well.
• From the boards, make a formwork of about 25 * 25 cm (1 brick in size) and up to. Lay roofing material on the inner walls of the formwork.

Advice!
You can make a permanent formwork of posts from asbestos-cement, sewer PVC pipes or twisted roofing material.

• Wire the reinforcing cage in each post from 10 mm diameter rods.

• Prepare a mortar of cement, sand and fine gravel (in proportions 1: 3: 5).
• Before pouring, make a mortgage in the center of the post for easy fastening of the beams. It is best made from a threaded stud.
• Fill the posts to the same level and let them dry for at least a few days. They will gain full strength only after a month.

Installation of the subfloor

Advice!
Treat all wooden elements with an antiseptic before starting work.

• Lay and secure the retaining beams to the foundation. Pay attention that a temperature gap of 1 cm is maintained from the edges of the logs and beams at the junction with the wall. They are attached to the foundation with 12 * 140 mm anchor bolts.
• To make it easier to trim the remaining logs at the same angle to drain, use one of them as a template.

• When laying the sub-floor, you can use almost any board, since it is only needed for laying thermal insulation. At the same time, be sure to treat them with an antiseptic and remove the bark before laying.
• We fasten the waterproofing to the logs with a stapler every 10-15 cm with an overlap and overlap on the walls.
• The insulation is laid close to each other, with an offset of the joints. Mineral wool should not be crumpled, but cut exactly to the size of the cells.

• Then, in the same way, we attach another layer of vapor-waterproofing to the logs.

Laying the finished floor

• We fasten the first sheathing board with an indent from the wall 1-2 cm from above on a self-tapping screw. Try to do this as close to the wall as possible to hide the hat with the baseboard.
• We attach the subsequent boards to the groove to the previous one. For their tight docking with each other, make a doboin with a thorn. Through it, you can knock boards with a hammer without fear of damaging the connecting elements.
• If you need an even stronger docking, then make pegs with a thorn. By nailing metal staples to the joists, you can use them to wedge the boards, as shown in the photo.

• To hide the caps of the screws, all subsequent boards are attached from the side of the groove, screwing the screws there to the logs at an angle. In order for the boards to press tightly and not crack, you need to drill holes before that.
• When installing the last board, it will need to be cut to the width with a circular saw. It must be fastened in the same way as the first, with screws from above.

Conclusion

Having made a wooden floor in a frame bath, you can be sure that it will last for at least 10 years of active use. If you want to make a floor heating system, put a tiled floor in the bath, make a drain, then you need to make a screed.

The video in this article shows the self-laying of the floor in the bath.