What you need to do in September in the garden and garden. September

Armed with a rake and garden vacuum cleaners, proceed to restore order in your summer cottage.

First you need to weed out all the weeds., collect fallen leaves, dry stems of plants. Particular attention should be paid to the timely harvesting of fallen fruits: they often hide the strongest evil - numerous pests that will eventually go into the soil in order to give rise to a new population in the spring.

Important! All litter from fruit trees, leaves and diseased branches must be disposed of.

September is the time to prune faded perennials.: delphinium, bluebells, daylilies, irises, phlox, dicentro, astrantia. But peonies, astilbes and many host varieties retain their decorative appearance for quite a long time, and pruning of these plants is carried out as it is lost, and not according to a clear schedule.

Do not try to quickly "bare" the garden: let it delight you with a riot of colors in the last days before the onset of dank autumn rains. So, for example, tenacious, thyme, zelenchuk, iberis, sapling, carnation, hellebore, geyher, tiarely, miscanthus, ground cover sedums, cereals, bergenia, goryanka, stakhis (chistets), pachysandra do not need pruning.

Do not cut and Monarda with echinocea. Their spectacular convex centers will bring a special charm to the autumn garden, and the racemose decorative inflorescences of goldenrod will add sophistication to the flower arrangement. Colchicums (colchicums) that suddenly emerged from the ground will please with soft pink and white flowers.

Until late autumn decorate the garden and ground perennial chrysanthemums, as well as Japanese anemone, black cohosh, meadowsweet (philipendula), gelenium, loosestrife loosestrife, loosestrife, cletra-like, physalis, sedum prominent, New England and New Belgian asters, eryngium, mordovnik, annual dried flowers, amaranth, scabiosa.

If the decorative garden still retains its attractiveness in autumn, then the garden goes on a well-deserved rest.

At the beginning of the month dig up potatoes, carrots, beets; in the second half of September - cabbage, pumpkin, zucchini. Fans of natural farming can lay compost before winter. Those who have done this before feed tired plants with a nutritious product - or, as they say, "black gold" - from the composter.

Don't forget in autumn and the application of fertilizers. You should immediately abandon nitrogen, as they stimulate growth. Any organic matter is suitable for autumn: manure, humus, peat. Potassium will be to the taste of the lawn, and complex fertilizers will appreciate fruit and berry crops.

The preparation of trees for the winter period deserves special attention.

Last time this season you can trim the hedge, giving it the desired shape. In the orchard, cut the remontant raspberries (for ordinary varieties, cut only the fruiting trunks, and shorten the young ones to the lignified part).

So that the root system of plants breathed "full breasts", you should loosen the soil in the near-trunk circles of trees. But the cultivation of the land under the bushes must be approached individually: for example, the soil under the currant can be dug deep, and the raspberry prefers delicate surface treatment.

Whitewashing tree trunks- Another important event that completes the set of works to prepare the orchard for winter.

A common misconception that you need to whitewash the trees in the spring. However, it is trees bleached from autumn that are less susceptible to frost in January-March. And so that the autumn rains do not wash away the whitewash, red clay and casein or bone glue must be added to the lime mortar.

If next season you want to change the look of the garden, then in September is the time for new plantings. Until the middle of the month, coniferous trees and shrubs are planted, as well as those types of deciduous trees that do not change their color during the year. From fruit plants in September, you can plant currants, gooseberries, blackberries and honeysuckle.

A separate item of autumn work in the garden is preparing the lawn for winter. A pond will also bring a lot of trouble.

The lawn needs to be mowed and "combed" fan rakes. Then aerate, a newfangled concept that literally means “piercing the soil of the lawn to improve its drainage.” The main tool for aeration is a pitchfork, but for large areas it is advisable to use special equipment that effectively copes with this task.

Decorative ponds, the size of which in diameter reaches no more than 20 m, and the depth does not exceed 1 m, must be drained. Do not forget to first turn off and clean all equipment (lighting, pumps, filters and pipelines) in a warm room, as well as place plants in separate containers and transfer them to winter storage in the basement.

reservoir reservoir it is necessary to clean the debris and thoroughly wash the walls, and then refill with water by two-thirds. Large ponds do not need to be drained, but they do need cleaning.

It will be more difficult for owners of a stocked reservoir. It is better to leave the inhabitants of a large-scale pond for the winter in their usual surroundings. Residents of miniature reservoirs can pass the frosty days at home - in aquariums and even in spacious containers installed in the basement.

water inhabitants should be surrounded by attention and care: maintain the usual water temperature for them (not higher than +15 degrees), use a pump to ensure a constant supply of oxygen. Do not overdo it with food - in the winter season, fish from open water should rest.

Domestic green pets also need to be prepared for winter.

Those of them who spent the summer on the balcony or terrace, it's time to return to a warm room, because large differences in day and night temperatures greatly weaken the immune system of indoor flowers (which, of course, will affect their development in winter). Only Schlumbergers and Ripsalidopsis benefit from such temperature fluctuations and contribute to their abundant flowering in December.

Despite the fact that this is the first month of autumn, for summer residents this is, perhaps, a truly “hot season”. After all, right now you have to do a lot of important things, and only then you can return to the city.

SOIL PREPARATION

In September, it is necessary to have time to prepare the ground! The fact is that right now is the time to plant both fruit and ornamental trees and shrubs and, of course, create or repair existing flower beds. And in order for all your newly planted splendor to please you for many years, you need to thoroughly prepare.

Many summer residents do not pay attention to the acidity of the soil in their garden at all. It’s a pity, because often the soil in the plots is very acidic and not quite suitable for many plants. Unless, of course, you plan to set up a heather garden on your property. In most other cases, plants still prefer soil close to neutral. Acidity can be determined using a special pH meter.

If you don’t have a special device at hand, then you can determine the approximate level of acidity in a simpler way, take a handful of soil and drop a few drops of table vinegar on it - if the soil starts to “boil”, then the soil in your area is close to neutral. And if there is no reaction, the soil in the area is acidic and needs liming.

To determine the acidity of the soil, take some soil and moisten it with water. Then attach litmus paper to it. By the color it turns into, it will be possible to determine its acidity. So, if the paper turns red, the soil is strongly acidic and needs liming, if it is pink, then the soil on the site has medium acidity, yellow color - the soil is slightly acidic, and if the soil is neutral, then the paper will turn blue. They will help determine the acidity and weeds growing on the site. So, if you have a lot of horse sorrel, horsetail, sedge or creeping buttercup, then the soil is also acidic.

Liming

If it turned out that you have really acidic soil, it makes sense to lime it. To do this, evenly spread lime on the surface of the soil and dig it up. Such an event will help reduce acidity for several years, and after a couple of years everything will have to be repeated again. By the way, you should not combine the simultaneous application of lime and manure.

We fertilize in September

In September, when digging, fertilizers are applied to the soil - both organic (rotted manure, compost) and mineral (fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium in their composition). Fertilizers can be evenly distributed over the entire surface of the site, and then carefully dig the soil. Or you can apply locally - when planting plants, fertilizers are applied to holes or planting pits.

In September, nitrogen fertilizers are practically not used anymore. This is due to the fact that nitrogen leads to the active growth of young shoots that do not have time to ripen for the cold and still freeze in winter. But this does not yet apply to the lawn. After all, it still has to be mowed regularly. It's just that in the case of an early and cool autumn, the grass will not grow as quickly, and the interval between mowing can be extended.

Do not forget after each mowing, be sure to feed the lawn grass with mineral fertilizers. Moreover, in addition to nitrogen, their composition must necessarily contain both phosphorus and potassium. Their optimal concentrations for this time of year are usually found in the so-called "autumn fertilizers" for the lawn.

ADVICE to the gardener

Do not forget to remove from the trunks and burn the hunting belts.

Branches with dried leaves, shoots damaged by bark beetles should be cut out.

Remove lichens from tree trunks, moss, dead bark, carrion and mummified fruits.

Disease prevention

Despite the fact that using nitrogen in the fall is extremely risky, there is still a case when you cannot do without it. Scab is a widespread disease of fruit crops. It damages not only leaves, but also fruits.

This disease not only spoils the appearance of both the trees and fruits themselves, but also weakens the plants themselves. To combat it, there is a real arsenal of various chemicals that must be used regularly in the summer. But there is a better way. After all, it is necessary to use any chemical preparation in the garden with extreme caution, especially at a time when the crop has not yet been harvested. You have probably already heard about such a nitrogen fertilizer as urea. It is urea that is an excellent option for the destruction of scab pathogens. As soon as the fruits are harvested, spray the trees with a 4% urea solution. Moreover, it is better to do this before the leaf fall begins.

Planting bulbs in September

In September (usually starting from mid-September) it is time to plant bulbs of tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, crocus corms. When planting, add sand to the bottom of the hole, such a “cushion” will become good drainage, especially if the site has heavy soil. When planting all bulbs, there is one simple rule: the planting depth of the bulbs should be equal to three sizes of the bulb itself. The larger the bulb, the deeper it should be planted. But if the soil is heavy and damp, then the planting depth should be reduced. To save crocuses from mice, plant them in special containers with a slatted bottom.

Competent pruning

All perennials that have lost their decorative effect can be cut off at the end of the month. Do not forget to leave "hemp", they will help to hold back the snow, and in the spring it will be easier to find plants. Then thoroughly weed and loosen your flower beds and mulch them with humus or rotted manure - this will be an excellent fertilizer, and a good protection against frost.

In September, cutting fruit trees is not worth it, except in extreme cases. But the hedge can still be trimmed, but only slightly. About roses. In September, cutting them is not worth it at all. The only thing that can be done is to pinch the tops of the young shoots of climbing roses - this will allow the shoots to ripen better, and thereby increase the likelihood that they will successfully overwinter.

We save the harvest

Before storing such root crops as beets and potatoes, it is important to treat them with an effective remedy for clamp rot (a clamp is a heap, a pile of root crops piled on the ground and covered for long-term storage). Preventive treatment with products based on benzoic acid will help prevent the appearance of all kinds of rot, increase the shelf life of the crop, and stop the process of further infection. Protect the crop from dry and wet rot, fusarium, phomosis, scab.calen

September is not the time to rest on our laurels! This month is busy enough for any hard-working gardener! Consider the most important work to be done in September!

Working with trees and shrubs

If shoots are still growing on your fruit trees, then in September, it's time to pinch their tips. So they will ripen better and overwinter.

In September, it's time to check if the budding has taken root on the trees. To do this, it is enough to touch the petiole. If it falls off, and the kidney is green and elastic, then the vaccine has taken root. If this does not happen, then you can try to re-graft the tree again.

Leaf yellowness- this is a sign that you need to start planting fruit trees with an open root system.

If leaves are still hanging on the purchased seedlings, then they must be removed. It is advisable to plant seedlings without leaves at all, so that there is as little evaporation as possible. As for the landing pit, it must be prepared at least a month before disembarkation.

In September, it is good to plant conifers. It is important to remember that coniferous plants should always be planted with a clod of earth. Therefore, you should not buy conifers in spontaneous markets, as well as with an open root system.

This month, it is good to root lignified cuttings of berry and ornamental shrubs, such as currants, gooseberries, derain, mock orange, privet and others. If in the spring some branches from the bush were dug in for rooting, now is the time to cut them off from the mother plant and plant them in a permanent place.

September is the time for the next feeding of plants. At this time, you can not use nitrogen fertilizers, only potassium, calcium and phosphorus. You can buy ready-made fertilizer "Superphosphate", which contains nitrogen. But its amount in this fertilizer is small, it will not cause additional growth and will not bring harm.

Planting strawberries and greens, harvesting vegetables and fruits for future use

September is a good time for planting garden strawberries. This will allow next year to get the first harvest of delicious berries. The main thing is not to plant it on those beds where peppers, eggplants, potatoes or onions grew. It is better to plant it in a place where radishes, lettuce or dill grew.

The beginning of autumn is a great time to get a healthy crop of vitamin greens. You can have time to grow spinach, lettuce, dill or radish. They will have time to ripen and bring a lot of health benefits.

For those who seek to prepare vegetables and fruits for future use, it must be remembered that the premises where the crop is supposed to be stored must be properly disinfected. It is desirable to whitewash basements, and treat storage boxes with boiling water with soda solution. Thus, all possible pests are destroyed.

Working with flowers

Florists have a lot of work this month. It is time to remove annual flowers from the boxes and pots where they grew. The earth from the boxes can be sent to the compost heap, and the boxes themselves need to be treated with soap or soda with plenty of water, and only then sent to storage for planting next summer.

September is the time for planting some bulb crops. These are daffodils, hyacinths or crocuses.
The division of perennials should also be carried out in September. Such flowers include astilba, phlox, carnations, stonecrops and other flowers, except echinacea. This flower is divided in spring.

If home flower plants in pots were taken outside at the beginning of summer, now is the time to bring them back into the house. In early autumn, the temperature drops below 15 degrees at night, and this can be fatal for many of them. But, before bringing home, it is necessary to check each plant for the presence of pests and diseases, and, if necessary, treat with appropriate preparations.

In many areas it is already possible to dig up gladiolus bulbs. If the region is warm enough, then you can leave this work at the beginning of October.

popular flowers- peonies, lay flower buds next year in September. Therefore, daily watering is especially important during this period. If the weather is rainy, then their frequency can be reduced to 1 time in 2-3 days. In addition, it will be good to add fertilizer in the form of wood ash, half a glass for one large peony bush.

In order to attract birds to your garden to get rid of pests, you need to harvest berries. Suitable such as mountain ash, viburnum, hawthorn and ornamental apples. All these stocks are subject to drying in order to place them in the garden in winter and feed the feathered helpers.

If you did not have time to plant winter garlic at the end of August, then do it at the very beginning of September. To do this, prepare a bed: add a bucket of well-rotted organic matter per square meter of soil, half a bucket of sand (this is not necessary if your soil is sandy), add a liter jar of ash and carefully dig a shovel onto a bayonet. If it is a dry autumn, then in the evening water the bed well with water. In the morning, make a markup for planting, with a peg, make recesses according to the 10 x 10 cm pattern. If you prefer larger garlic, then markup should be done according to the 15x15 cm pattern. The depth for early planting of garlic should be at least 12 cm. a tablespoon of sand, one large granule of AVA fertilizer (if you do not have it, then lower 1 teaspoon of ash) and lower the clove. Sprinkle sand on top and level the soil.

With such a planting, garlic will have time to develop a powerful root system before the onset of cold weather, but it will not sprout. In early spring, it will start to grow. Garlic is a cold-resistant crop, so it is not afraid of late spring frosts. Garlic will ripen around the end of July and will be ready for harvest before the August rains. If in spring or autumn the area with garlic plantings is flooded with water, care must be taken to drain excess water. To do this, it is enough to dig passages between the beds to a depth of 40-50 cm.

Until September 10-15, you can plant strawberries, but it is better to plant strawberries in the North-West in spring or early June. With late autumn planting, the bushes do not have time to take root well (this takes about three weeks without frost and low temperatures), so in winter they stick out of the ground and they often die. In addition, rosettes do not have time to grow a sufficient number of leaves covering the rhizome in winter, therefore, without additional shelter, it can freeze during frosts without snow. With early autumn planting, rosettes have practically no roots yet and their survival rate is low. If the roots are small, then it is better to cut off half of the leaves, then the survival rate will be better. But usually, during autumn planting, bushes, even those that have successfully overwintered, are frail, weak and do not grow well all summer, berries will appear on them only next year.

In early September, potatoes should be harvested by cutting the tops a week before harvesting. It cannot be left on the field, because when digging tubers, phytophthora from the leaves can get on them. Therefore, it must be dried and burned at the stake. Ash can be used to deoxidize the soil and feed plants; naturally, there is no phytophthora pathogen in the ash. To improve the soil, winter rye should be sown immediately in the harvested field. In the spring, it must be mowed and dig up the green mass along with the soil and roots. Potatoes can be planted after a week. It must be borne in mind that such a procedure introduces a rather large amount of nitrogen into the soil, therefore it is undesirable to add additional azophos during planting, you should limit yourself to phosphorus and potassium, otherwise scab cannot be avoided due to an excess of nitrogen in early varieties.

In early September, you need to cut the flower stalks of gladioli. After a couple of weeks, they need to be dug up. In order not to be confused, each variety is folded into a separate nylon stocking along with roots and children. Then they are washed in water, dipped in a solution of karbofos, the concentration of which should be made twice as high as indicated in the instructions. After 15 minutes, the plants are taken out and lowered directly in stockings into a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate (also for 15 minutes). After that, they are taken out of the stocking, cut off the aerial part, leaving a stump of about 4-6 cm, and laid out in a dry room. Drying takes about 20 days at a temperature of about 22-25°C. After that, the roots, together with the old bulb, are easily separated from the new bulb. All scales should be removed from it. If you store the bulbs together with the scales, then, despite the treatment with karbofos, thrips eggs can remain under it. In winter, the larvae that emerge from them will suck the juice from the bulbs, and they will dry out. Gladiolus bulbs are easiest to store in a double black nylon stocking. Put them together with the children of this variety in a stocking, put a note with the name of the variety, sprinkle with a crushed tablet of any antipyretic drug, tie up the stocking and put the next variety, etc. Hang the resulting garland on the window latch behind the curtain, the bulbs will be perfectly preserved until spring.

After the first frost, which killed the entire aerial part of the dahlia, cut off the tops, dig up the tubers, rinse them with water, hold them in a solution of potassium permanganate for 15-20 minutes and put them in a shed to form a dense peel. After a week, the tubers can be stored for storage, but first divide them into pieces. Keep in mind that each tuber must have a piece of the stem (neck), because the buds are laid at the very base of the neck. If the dahlias are dried, then dividing a piece of the stem will become difficult. Write the name of the variety directly on the tubers with a felt-tip pen.

They are well preserved if each tuber, in order to avoid moisture loss during storage, is smeared twice with beaten protein from a fresh egg using a shaving brush. You can store them right in a cardboard box on the windowsill, or put the tubers in a canvas bag and hang it near the cold water pipe in the toilet.

You should not store the entire nest of tubers and roots from a dug up bush, even in the cellar. The nest must be divided annually, otherwise the variety will begin to degenerate.

At the end of the month, it is necessary to cut off the aerial part of peonies, phloxes, astilbes; for irises, this must be done so that a fan of leaves about 15 cm high remains. Immediately after cutting, pour all these plantings with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid (1 teaspoon without top for half a liter of water). In the spring, when a new aerial part grows, watering with Bordeaux should be repeated. This simple procedure will save plants from rot disease. Bordeaux can be replaced with "Fitosporin" and powdering the soil with ash around the plants.

After the first frost, carrots should be removed for winter storage. If the time has come to harvest the root crops, and the weather is warm, then be sure to keep the carrots in the refrigerator for a day or two - the carrots must go through the cooling stage before storage, otherwise they will begin to grow greens during storage.

You can remove the beets. Her tops are cut off so that a little of the aerial part remains. Cauliflower can also be removed, but together with the roots, put it in a box without soil and place it in the cellar for growing. The heads will increase significantly in size in about a month due to the nutrients accumulated in the leaves. Or leave the cabbage in the garden, but then it must be covered with double lutrasil from possible frosts.

Throughout September, you can plant berry bushes: raspberries, currants, gooseberries, honeysuckle and nuts. If you bought planting material for cherries, plums, pears and apples, as well as sea buckthorn, then it is better to dig them in until spring, and not plant them before winter.

If there are no lichens on the bark of trees, then you can whitewash the trunks and skeletal branches with water-based paint for outdoor use. But if it rains in the next couple of days and wash off the paint, then the work will be useless. The same thing happens when whitewashing with chalk. Such whitewashing will not protect the trees from solar spring burns, which usually occur in February-March, when, after cloudy winter weather, a very bright sun appears, enhanced by snow.

Late spring whitewashing is generally completely meaningless, since the train has already left and the sun has done its job. Spring burns of the bark further lead to its decay and death, and you will see this only 2-3 years after the burn. Therefore, it is best to wrap the trunks with polypropylene fiber from under the sugar bags at any time in the fall, pulling out the polyethylene liner (if any) and opening the bags. Any other similar bags will do. In the spring, you can not rush to remove this harness. It does not heat up in the sun, it allows air to pass through, and therefore the bark under it does not fade.

Lawns should definitely be mowed before winter, otherwise the grass in the spring will hardly (and therefore unevenly) break through the dried turf.

It is usually recommended to dig up all the beds and tree trunks under trees and bushes. You can just throw all the fallen leaves under them. In winter, they will cover the roots, and in the spring, when they rot, they will give organic top dressing. In the spring, do not remove autumn leaves either from lawns or from under bushes, trees, perennial flowers. The site looks unpresentable only in May. Try to refrain from putting things in order on it. By the end of the month, the leaves will no longer be visible. But you are provided with feeding for native microorganisms and earthworms for the whole season, and the grateful inhabitants of the earth will generously supply your plants with fresh food - humus - all summer.

If there are weeds under plantings, then they must be shaved off and left immediately, on the spot. In flower beds and beds, weeds can be smeared with Roundup. If you do not use it, then simply cover these places with newspapers folded in 3-4 layers. So that the wind does not spread, lightly sprinkle the newspapers with soil and do not rush to clean them in the spring - they will gradually rot, and the weeds under them will die in one season. In the spring, do not rush to remove this shelter before flowering - wintered pests will die under it, which will not be able to get to the surface. But at the time of flowering, beneficial insects come to the surface, and therefore, as soon as the plant begins to bloom, immediately remove the shelter.

At the end of the month, water the vacant beds well, including those in greenhouses, with Fitosporin solution. The predator bacterium living in it will destroy pathogens of fungal and bacterial diseases for a long time, because it dies only at 20 degrees below zero.

Under the snow cover, it is perfectly preserved and continues to live and work in the soil for many years. If there is a lot of "Fitosporin" left, then water the soil under all plantings (especially under perennial flowers).

Calendar of works in the garden and in the garden in September. Work at the cottage in September. What needs to be done in the garden and in the garden in September. Everything you need to do in the country in September.

The list of works in the garden and in the garden for September

1. If you did not have time to plant winter garlic at the end of August, then do it at the very beginning of September. To do this, prepare a bed: add a bucket of well-rotted organic matter per square meter of soil, half a bucket of sand (this is not necessary if your soil is sandy), add a liter jar of ash and carefully dig a shovel onto a bayonet. If it is a dry autumn, then in the evening water the bed well with water. In the morning, make a markup for planting, make recesses with a peg according to the 10 x 10 cm pattern. If you prefer larger garlic, then markup should be done according to the 15 x 15 cm pattern. The depth for early planting of garlic should be at least 1 2 cm. In each recess add 1 tablespoon of sand, 1 large granule of AVA fertilizer and lower the clove (if this fertilizer is not available, then replace it with 1 teaspoon of ash). Sprinkle sand on top and level the soil.

With such a planting, garlic will have time to develop a powerful root system before the onset of cold weather, but it will not sprout. In early spring, it will start to grow. Garlic is a cold-resistant crop, so it is not afraid of late spring frosts. The garlic will ripen around the end of July and is ready to be harvested before the August rains. If in spring or autumn the area with garlic plantings is flooded with water, care must be taken to drain excess water. To do this, it is enough to dig passages between the beds to a depth of 40 - 50 cm.

2. I often ask: why do the tips of garlic (and onions) turn yellow? There can be several reasons: lack of nitrogen, usually in the bright spring sun, when there is a powerful photosynthesis; lack of copper in the soil, most often in peatlands. In this case, the tips of the leaves do not so much turn yellow as turn white. With a lack of potassium, the leaves not only turn yellow, but also curl. If the plants have come under severe frost, then not only the tips turn yellow, but also the entire leaves. If the ends of the leaves turn yellow and at the same time the stem brightens and even turns yellow, then usually such a plant is damaged by a pest (more often this happens with onions - damage by an onion fly). But this can also happen in too acidic soil, or when the roots lack air (suffocate) in over-improved soil.

3. Until September 10-15, you can plant strawberries, although my experience shows that in the North-West it is better to plant strawberries in the spring, at the end of May and even at the beginning of July. To do this, back in August, it is necessary to let 4-5 rosettes take root on the uterine bush (usually, as a uterine bush, gardeners simply select the bush that had a large harvest in summer). Contrary to what they write, only the sockets closest to the bush should be left, all the rest should be discarded. Rosettes should be allowed to overwinter with the mother plant, and only in the spring they should be cut off from it and transplanted. First, on the prepared bed, make indentations with a shovel according to the 30 x 30 cm pattern, add one third of a teaspoon of AVA fertilizer granules to the bottom and transplant young bushes directly on the shovel along with a clod of earth. This method is called transshipment. At the same time, the root system is not damaged and the bushes take root well.

After transshipment, strawberries are well watered. They bloom at the end of July and give the first small crop of large berries. With late autumn planting, the bushes do not have time to take root well (this takes about three weeks without frost and low temperatures), so in winter they stick out of the ground and they often die. In addition, rosettes do not have time to grow a sufficient number of leaves covering the rhizome in winter, therefore, without additional shelter, the rhizome may freeze during frosts without snow. With early autumn planting, rosettes have practically no roots yet, and their survival rate is low. Bushes even successfully overwintered are frail, weak and grow poorly all summer, berries will appear on them only next year.

4. At the beginning of September, potatoes should be harvested by cutting the tops a week before harvesting. It should not be left on the field, because when harvesting the tubers, phytophthora from the leaves can get on them. The tops must be dried and burned at the stake. Ash can be used to deoxidize the soil and feed plants; naturally, there is no phytophthora pathogen in the ash.

To improve the soil, it is recommended to sow winter rye immediately in the harvested field. In the spring, it should be mowed and dig up the green mass along with the soil and roots. Potatoes can be planted after a week. Keep in mind that this procedure introduces a rather large amount of nitrogen into the soil, so it is undesirable to add azophoska when planting. It is enough to confine ourselves only to the introduction of phosphorus and potassium, otherwise scab cannot be avoided in early varieties due to an excess of nitrogen.

5. In early September, flower stalks should be cut off from gladioli. After a couple of weeks, they need to be dug up. In order not to confuse, put each variety in a separate nylon stocking along with roots and children. Then rinse in water, dip in a solution of karbofos, the concentration of which is twice as high as indicated in the instructions. After 15 minutes, the plants should be removed from the solution of karbofos and lowered directly in stockings into a solution of potassium permanganate of bright pink color (also for 15 minutes). After this, the plants must be removed from the stocking, cut off the aerial part, leaving a stump of about 4-6 cm, and spread out in a dry room. Drying should take place at a temperature of approximately 22 - 25 degrees for about 20 days.

After that, the roots, together with the old bulb, are easily separated from the new bulb. All scales should be removed from it. If you store the bulbs together with the scales, then, despite the treatment with karbofos, thrips eggs can remain under the scales. In winter, the larvae hatching from them will suck the juice from the bulbs, and they will dry out.

Gladiolus bulbs are easiest to store in a double black nylon stocking. Put the bulbs together with the children of this variety in a stocking, put a note with the name of the variety, sprinkle with a crushed tablet of any antipyretic drug, tie up the stocking and put in the next variety, and so on. Hang the resulting garland on the latch of the window behind the curtain. Bulbs will keep well until spring.

6. After the first frost, which killed the entire aerial part of the dahlia, cut off the tops, dig up the tubers, rinse them with water, hold in a solution of potassium permanganate for 15-20 minutes, immediately divide into parts. Keep in mind that each tuber must have a piece of the neck, because at the very base of the neck, the buds are laid. If the dahlias are dried, then dividing a piece of the stem will become difficult. Write the name of the variety directly on the tubers with a felt-tip pen and put them in the shed to form a dense peel. After a week, the tubers can be stored. They are well preserved if each tuber, in order to avoid moisture loss during storage, is smeared twice with beaten protein from a fresh egg using a shaving brush. You can store them right in a cardboard box on the windowsill, or put the tubers in a canvas bag and hang it in the toilet, near the cold water pipe.

You should not store the entire nest of tubers and roots from a dug bush, even in the cellar. The nest must be divided annually, otherwise the variety will begin to degenerate.

7. At the end of the month, it is necessary to cut off the aerial part of peonies, phloxes, astilba, for irises, cut the leaves so that a fan of leaves about 15 cm high remains. Immediately after cutting, pour all these plantings with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid (1 teaspoon without top half a liter of water). In the spring, when a new aerial part grows, watering with Bordeaux liquid should be repeated. This simple procedure will save your plants from rot disease. Instead of Bordeaux, you can use Fitosporin.

8. After the first frost, you need to remove the carrots for winter storage. If the time has come to harvest the root crops, and the weather is warm, then be sure to keep the carrots in the refrigerator for a day or two - the carrots must go through the cooling stage before storage, otherwise they will begin to grow greens during storage.

9. You can shoot beets. Her tops are cut off so that a little of the aerial part remains.

10. Cauliflower can also be removed, but together with the roots, put it in a box and place it in the cellar for growing. The heads will increase significantly in size in about a month. Or leave the cabbage in the garden, but then it must be covered with double lutrasil to protect it from possible frosts.

11. Throughout September, you can plant berry bushes: raspberries, currants, gooseberries, honeysuckle and nuts.

12. If you bought planting material for cherries, plums, pears, apple trees and sea buckthorn, then it is better to dig them in until spring, and not plant them before winter.

13. If there are no lichens on the bark of trees in your area, then you can whitewash the trunks and skeletal branches with water-based outdoor paint. It will not be washed away by the long autumn rains until spring and will protect the trees from sunburn in spring, which usually occurs in March, when very bright sun, enhanced by snow, appears after overcast winter weather. But it is even better to wrap the trunks with polypropylene fiber from bags of sugar or other products. Late spring whitewashing is completely pointless. Whitewashing with chalk - too, since it will be completely washed off before spring. Spring burns of the bark further lead to its decay and death.

14. If you did not have time to plant winter garlic at the end of August, then do it at the very beginning of September. To do this, prepare a bed: add a bucket of well-rotted organic matter per square meter of soil, half a bucket of sand (this is not necessary if your soil is sandy), add a liter jar of ash and carefully dig a shovel onto a bayonet. If it is a dry autumn, then in the evening water the bed well with water. In the morning, make markings for planting, make indentations with a peg according to the 10x10 cm pattern.

If you prefer larger garlic, then markup should be done according to the 15x15cm pattern. The depth for early planting of garlic should be at least 12 cm. In each recess, add 1 tablespoon of sand, 1 large granule of AVA fertilizer and lower the clove. Sprinkle sand on top and level the soil.

With such a planting, garlic will have time to develop a powerful root system before the onset of cold weather, but it will not sprout. In early spring, it will start to grow. Garlic is a cold-resistant crop, so it is not afraid of late spring frosts. The garlic will ripen around the end of July and is ready to be harvested before the August rains. If in spring or autumn the area with garlic plantings is flooded with water, then care must be taken to drain the excess water. To do this, it is enough to dig passages between the beds to a depth of 40-50 cm.

People often ask: why do the tips of garlic (and onions) turn yellow? There may be several reasons: lack of nitrogen, usually in bright spring sun, when there is powerful photosynthesis, lack of copper in the soil, most often in peat bogs. In this case, the tips of the leaves do not so much turn yellow as turn white.

With a lack of potassium, the leaves not only turn yellow, but also curl.

If the plants have come under severe frost, then not only the tips turn yellow, but also the entire leaves.

If the ends of the leaves turn yellow and at the same time the stem brightens and even turns yellow, then usually such a plant is damaged by a pest (more often this happens with onions - damage by an onion fly). But this can also happen in too acidic soil, or when the roots lack air (suffocate) in over-improved soil.

15. Until September 10-15, you can plant strawberries, although my experience shows that in the North-West it is better to plant strawberries in the spring, in late May and even early July. To do this, back in August, it is necessary to let 4-5 rosettes take root on the mother bush (usually gardeners simply select the bush that had a large harvest in summer as a mother bush). Contrary to what they write, only the sockets closest to the bush should be left, all the rest should be discarded. Rosettes should be allowed to overwinter with the mother plant, and only in the spring they should be cut off from it and transplanted.

First, on the prepared bed, make indentations with a shovel according to the 30 x 30 cm pattern, add one third of a teaspoon of AVA fertilizer granules to the bottom and transplant young bushes directly on the shovel along with a clod of earth. This method is called transshipment. At the same time, the root system is not damaged, and the bushes take root well. After transshipment, strawberries should be well watered. Bushes bloom at the end of July and give the first small crop of large berries.

With late autumn planting, the bushes do not have time to take root well (this takes about three weeks without frost and low temperatures), so in winter they stick out of the ground and they often die. In addition, rosettes do not have time to grow a sufficient number of leaves covering the rhizome in winter, therefore, without additional shelter, the rhizome may freeze during frosts without snow.

With early autumn planting, rosettes have practically no roots yet, and their survival rate is low. Bushes (even successfully overwintered) are frail, weak and grow poorly all summer, berries will appear on them only next year.

16. In early September, potatoes should be harvested by cutting the tops a week before harvesting. It should not be left on the field, because when harvesting the tubers, phytophthora from the leaves can get on them. The tops should be dried and burned at the stake.

Ash can be used to deoxidize the soil and feed plants; naturally, there is no phytophthora pathogen in the ash. To improve the soil, winter rye should be sown immediately in the harvested field, but I prefer to sow the field with white mustard.

In the spring, rye should be mowed and dig up the green mass along with the soil and roots. Potatoes can be planted after a week. It should be borne in mind that such a procedure introduces a rather large amount of nitrogen into the soil, therefore it is undesirable to add additional azophos when planting, it should be limited only to the introduction of phosphorus and potassium, otherwise scab cannot be avoided due to an excess of nitrogen in early varieties.

The work is very labor intensive. That's why I prefer to sow white mustard. Frosts will kill it themselves, and by spring it will rot significantly. It remains only to slightly loosen the remains in the topsoil.

Popular weather signs for September

❧ If at the beginning of the month the horns of the crescent of the moon are directed upwards, then in September there will be warm and sunny weather, and if the horns are directed downwards, then it will be rainy.

Weather for tomorrow

❧ If woodlice flowers close in the morning, it will rain during the day.

❧ If spiders weave a web in the south direction, then warming will come, and if in the north, then cooling. Spiders hide in cracks before bad weather. The spider sits in the center of the web before the rain. The spider spins a new web before the good weather arrives, even if it is raining at that time.