Drawings of a small boat made of wood. How are homemade plywood boats made? PVC boat

The boat is an indispensable vehicle in areas surrounded by water bodies. Also, for any lover of fishing, a good boat is an irreplaceable helper. To make a boat with your own hands, it will take a lot of time and effort, and this also applies to the financial side. However, today there are many materials that allow you to quickly and inexpensively build a floating craft, one of which is foam. The information below will help you understand that making a foam boat is quite realistic.

Styrofoam is a fairly versatile material for making various DIY projects.

The polymer from which the foam is made looks like a foamed mass. Due to this, there is a lot of air between its particles, which allows the material not to sink in water. In addition, the foam has good thermal insulation properties, low weight, high buoyancy due to the large area of \u200b\u200bthe material and light weight. Polyfoam is affordable for everyone, and it is also easily processed with a tool and glues well. But, this material is easily destroyed, so it cannot be bent and complex shapes. Therefore, to give strength to a home-made boat, its hull is made not of solid foam, but of a sandwich sheathing, consisting of a layer of foam with glass mat. Sandwich technology consists in the fact that between two layers of the material that takes on the main load, there is a separating layer of a lighter material. Thus, the two layers of fiberglass are separated by foam.

You can use regular extruded polystyrene without glass cloth, but such a homemade foam boat would require sheathing of plywood or other protective material on the outside, such as film or tarpaulin.

Homemade foam boats: blueprints

On the Internet you can find many different models and drawings.

Before making a boat out of foam, you need to draw up a project for it. To do this, it is necessary to draw all the components of the future structure with exact dimensions and shape. Typically the boat is 2.6 m long and 0.78 m wide at the bottom. The most difficult part of the design is building the hull from parts that do not bend.

It is recommended to make the boat drawings in full size in order to avoid errors in calculations and to be able to directly mark out the hull parts. The drawing is applied to plywood, the so-called plaza. On the plaza, the details of the boat are drawn, forming a bookmark, or the frame of the vessel - keel, transom, knobs, stem, sternpost, indicating the width, height, cross-section of the keel. To save space on the plazas, you can draw side and half-latitude projections one on top of the other, marking them with different colors. The projection of the hull should reflect the branches of the frame of both sides - right and left, which are best combined into the bow and stern groups.

In order for the quality of the manufactured vessel to correspond to the project, it is necessary to take into account the rules for the location of theoretical lines: these are the lines of the surface of the outer plating, the inner deck planking, the stern and bow edges of the frames, as well as the edge lines of the carlengs and stringers. More details on the design of the ship and the assembly of the drawing can be seen in the video.

How to make a boat out of foam with your own hands

Styrofoam boat is easy to make

After making a drawing with a detailed application of all the elements of the boat, you can start assembling the frame. The inner, outer, and main skin will be attached to the skeleton of the boat. It must be durable, since the quality of the watercraft depends on it. The main skin, made of polystyrene, gives the ship stability and unsinkability in the water. The elements of the main skin must be tightly glued to each other to keep out moisture. The inner lining serves to protect the fragile foam from mechanical damage inside the vessel, and the outer one - from the outside, it must be waterproof and durable.

Frame fabrication

The frame of the boat plays an important role

The skeleton of the boat is made of wooden blocks. It is an important part of the structure and must be strong, rigid and reliable. It is assembled in parts: each component is measured, and fastened to each other with screws or nails. To make the frame even more durable, metal corners and plates can be attached over the screw mounts. The frame ribs are made of plywood. When it is assembled, you can start making the skins.

Main skin fabrication

Be careful when choosing epoxy resins

The main planking will allow you to make sure that the foam boat does not sink with your own hands, but keeps well on the water. To make it, you need to take sheets of polystyrene with a thickness of 5-10 cm, epoxy glue, a sharp tool for cutting expanded polystyrene, as well as measuring instruments.

Measurements of the frame area of \u200b\u200bthe entire boat are applied to the foam sheets. Then they are divided into separate measurements, which will later be collected together. Since the foam cannot be bent, gussets are made up of three pieces. To attach the styrofoam to the frame, you can use epoxy glue that sticks the sheets together, as well as wide-headed flat metal nails.

Internal and external skinning

The inner sheathing serves as a protective frame for the main EPS sheathing. It helps to preserve the integrity of the material from various mechanical influences, including pressure from the weight of a person inside the vessel. You can use plywood to make the inner lining. First, the area of \u200b\u200bthe inner surface of the vessel is measured. You can sew up the entire area inside the boat, or only the floor and the lower part of the sides. After measurements are taken, they are applied to the plywood, after which it is glued in separate parts to the main skin using epoxy glue. It is necessary to ensure that the plywood does not sag under the weight of a person, damaging the expanded polystyrene.

The outer plating must be performed so that the boat does not damage the bottom or sides of the uneven bottom or other obstacles. Plus, it will create a waterproof surface. To create a protective surface, plywood is glued to those places of the vessel where a hole is most likely to occur, as well as the bow of the boat. The rest of the hull can be covered with a tarpaulin for moisture resistance.

DIY foam and fiberglass boat

Fiberglass is easy to buy on the construction market or order on the Internet

A homemade product made of polystyrene, pasted over with fiberglass, is made according to the following scheme:

After the project of the future vessel is made, as described earlier, it is necessary to make a model of the boat from plywood. Pieces of this material are cut out based on the elements of the project, glued together using epoxy-based glue (you can also use epoxy resin).
Around the plywood model, pre-prepared according to the drawing, polystyrene sheets are glued. For better adhesion of joints, they can be cut at an angle of 45 degrees.
The perimeter of the boat is covered with a frame made of 10x30 mm slats.
The transom and forespiegel must be attached to the plywood model with screws.
Further, the bottom and polystyrene are cut out, glued to the side and end parts, the load is placed on top. Excess material at the joints must be cut off.
The sides, which were fastened with screws, are now glued. They were needed so that the expanded polystyrene did not crease during gluing. The places of the holes from the screws are sealed with foam.
The surface of the boat is sanded with sandpaper.
Now you need to use fiberglass for pasting the hull based on the material for 1 layer for the sides and 2 layers for the bottom.
The body must be putty, then cleaned.
On the inside, the hull is also covered with fiberglass, the sides are in 1 layer, and the bottom - in a double layer, then putty and cleaned similarly to the outer surface of the boat.

A 10x30 mm bar is also attached along the perimeter of the inner side; it is fixed with stainless screws with countersunk heads. A hole is made between the inner and outer fenders, where rectangular bars are inserted from both sides to fasten the sublocks. Subsequently, a socket from a metal tube for oarlocks will be welded there. From above, the sides are also pasted over with fiberglass in order to exclude possible leaks between the beams to expanded polystyrene. On the bottom, stringers are attached to the screws, covered with epoxy resin. The final finishing of the boat from expanded polystyrene is carried out using epoxy primer applied in two layers.

When making a boat out of plywood, you will face two main problems. First, you need to properly measure and manufacture the parts. Secondly, it is important to correctly assemble the boat frame. Later in the article, I will describe in detail how to calculate the dimensions for all the component parts, and during the construction of the frame I will focus on especially important points.

Dimensions and Drawings

The first thing to do is decide on the size of the boat. We will make a boat 3000 mm long, 1400 wide and 500 mm high.
Let's decide on the length of the base of the frame. To do this, we need to know the length of the boat, two angles a and b, and the height of the boat.

We know the length and height - 3000mm and 500mm. Angle a - 100, angle b - 120.

Knowing these values, we calculate the length of the base of the frame.

L \u003d 3000- (h * tg (a-90) + h * tg (b-90)) \u003d 2623where h is the height of the boat

Now let's find the length of the nose and transom. Since they are tilted, their length will be greater than the height of the boat.

L transom \u003d √ (〖(h * tan (a-90))〗 ^ 2 + h ^ 2) \u003d 508

L nose \u003d √ (〖(h * tg (b-90))〗 ^ 2 + h ^ 2) \u003d 577

It is necessary to determine the width of the bottom. Let's take half of the boat's width - 700 mm. The bottom width will be 10% smaller, i.e. 630 mm. The boat reaches its maximum width in 1/3 of the transom.

In our case, the maximum width will be 1000 mm from the end of the boat. Thus, we transform the beam, so that the maximum bend is at the point 1/3 * the length of the boat from the transom.

The length of the plywood for the board will be equal to the length of the transformed beams (top and bottom, respectively). The width will be equal to the length of the bow on one side and the length of the transom on the other.

Other dimensions depend on the situation.

Boat frame

The basis will be a beam of 50 * 50 * 2523 mm. We fasten the transom 50 * 50 * 630 mm to it on one side, at an angle of 90 degrees. From the ends of the trance we screw the deformed beams to the nose (the maximum convexity of the beam is 1000 mm from the transom).

We make 6 equally spaced cuts along the entire base (from the bottom side). The dimensions of the cutouts are 50 * 25 mm. We insert 6 beams 25 * 25 mm along the cutouts. We attach them to the base and side beams. The bottom of the frame is ready.

We fasten the nose and transom. Between the nose and the transom, we again fasten the deformed beams, but now at the top. The distance between the side beams is 500 mm high and 350 mm wide. In fact, our sides are located at an angle to the base (angle, approximately 120 degrees at the point of maximum convexity).

We make a frame for the sides

Note. Pay attention to how the beams are screwed: from the edge of the upper to the edge of the lower beam. It is important!
For this we use a bar of 25 * 25 mm.

Frame sheathing

We fasten the plywood to the beams with self-tapping screws 20 mm long. First, we fix the sides. The plywood should fit snugly against the frame.

Then we sheathe the transom and the bottom of the boat

We glue all plywood joints with waterproof glue. Apply glue to any areas of the boat that you think are vulnerable.

Next, we sew up the bow of the boat and fasten the seats. We trim the boat from the inside (optional). You can make the floor and not sheathe the boards, it all depends on how much plywood you have. Do not board the inside of the boat, this will add extra weight.

All the remaining parts are also to your taste, the boat is ready and can be put on the water.

DOCOO - Special for

Before fishing enthusiasts or just before people living near some body of water, sooner or later the question of purchasing a boat arises. It can provide not only pleasant boat trips under the gentle sun, but also the availability of the most catchy places where trophy specimens of fish are found. It is very expensive for many to buy a boat already ready for launching, but a boat made of plywood, built with their own hands, will cost several times cheaper. And this process itself, interesting and creative, will bring a lot of pleasure.

Let's dispel doubts

After hearing the phrase - a boat made of plywood - some pessimists will twist their fingers at their temples and say that this is absolutely impossible. They say, making a real floating craft from thin and straight plywood, and even such that it can withstand more than one person, is a utopia. In fact, it is quite possible. Moreover, you can build not just a small punt, but even a real sailing yacht, and if a small boat motor is installed on the reinforced transom, and a cockpit is made on the bow, then you get something like a boat. Why, the boat will work out. And these are not fishing tales.

Plywood can be of different thickness and strength. It is even easier to cut out parts from it to size and different configurations than from boards. In addition, it bends well enough to give the sides the desired roundness. There are also enough modern means to ensure the moisture resistance of a plywood boat. Therefore, for those who decided to make a boat on their own, only three things are needed: desire, a working head and hands that are not afraid of work. Everything else can be found easily.

Well, the advantages of a plywood boat are simply undeniable:

Low weight. The simplest punt weighs only 15-20 kg.
A well-made boat can last a very long time.
There are boat designs that can easily support up to 5 people.
Cheapness.

Preparation for work

Having set out to build a plywood boat on your own, the first step is to find the appropriate room in which all the work will be done. It should be spacious, dry and well lit. Sudden temperature changes and high humidity are categorically excluded. All production will take up enough time, which is foolish to waste in the summer, when you can do other things. Therefore, work is usually carried out either in winter or in spring, so the atmosphere in the "production hall" plays a very important role. Untreated plywood does not tolerate moisture well, and glue and impregnating liquids are better and better applied in warmth. It is also better to paint the finished product in a warm place.

The second required action is a blueprint. There shouldn't be any problems with this - you can find it on the Internet in just a few minutes. But even buying material without it is not worth it.

There is no point in starting work without a high-quality drawing

Self-made plywood boats are different, and it is necessary to choose the project that will be able to carry out independently. If this is the first experience of shipbuilding, then it is best to choose a project of the most ordinary punt. Despite the simplicity of the design, the possibilities are almost unlimited. You can hang a motor on it, and even put a mast on it. And under the oars, she walks just fine.

Having calculated from the drawing what and how much material will be needed, you can start purchasing it.

Material

It is not worth reminding that the material from which the plywood boat will be built must be of high quality. The plywood itself is without knots, glue only from a trusted manufacturer, impregnating liquids too.

The whole list looks like this:

Sheet plywood 1.5-1.5 m, 5 mm thick, BS, BK or FSF brands.
Several planks, better than oak.
Fiberglass.
Putty.
Waterproof glue.
Waterproof impregnation for wood or drying oil.
Waterproof enamel or oil paint.
Self-tapping screws.
Nails.
Copper wire.

When choosing plywood, it is necessary to carefully examine the edges for chips and cracks at the ends. It is not worth hoping that you can cut off a couple of centimeters. Everything else can be purchased easily and at a very affordable price at any hardware or hardware store.

Tool

A good owner, who is used to doing some repair work on his own, already has a set of tools. Even with interest. Directly building a boat will require the following arsenal:

Electric jigsaw.
Electroplaner.
Screwdriver.
A circular saw.
Grinder.
Plane.
Hacksaw.
A hammer.
Pliers.
Screwdrivers.
Metal ruler.
Chisel.
Spatulas.
Brushes.
Clamps.
Drawing kit.
Graph paper.
Cardboard.

Having prepared everything according to these two lists, you can proceed directly to work.

Power tools will make the job much easier

We begin to draw

It would be rather rash to mark out the outlines of the boat directly on the plywood sheet. A small mistake and the vessel will scour to the side or roll to one side. Therefore, it is better to first draw a diagram or sketch on graph paper in full size. Moreover, the word scheme is not very appropriate here, because it is necessary to strictly maintain the dimensions.

The algorithm of actions is as follows:

The center line is drawn dividing the bottom of the boat along.
At one end, a transom line is drawn perpendicularly immediately to size.
On the center line itself, the installation points of the frames are marked.
At these points, perpendiculars are drawn to the size of the frames.
With the help of patterns, the bottom itself is drawn.
The resulting pattern is folded in half along the centerline in order to check the symmetry.

The patterns of the sides, frames and transom are made in the same way, taking into account their sizes and configurations. But the drawing doesn't end there. Now, after the symmetry of the bottom and the sameness of the sides have been carefully checked, the stage of transferring the drawing to a cardboard template begins. The graph paper is too thin, but it will be much easier to transfer the drawing from a cardboard template to plywood without errors.

First gluing

If you managed to get sheet plywood that corresponds in length to the dimensions of the future boat, that's good. But if you have ordinary sheets of 1.5-1.5 meters, you will have to glue them. The best way is to glue it together.

Bonding on "mustache" - the most durable connection of plywood sheets

A distance equal to 10-12 sheet thicknesses recedes from the edge of the sheet, and the plane is grinded at an angle. After that, you need to go through the grinder and do the same operations with the second sheet. Cleaned and degreased surfaces are smeared with glue, neatly connected and fastened with clamps. Since the clamps can only be placed at the edges, a load must be placed in the center. After the glue has dried, the clamps can be removed, but let the product stand for at least another day.

Cut out parts

After the glue has dried and all burrs and smudges at the bonding site have been removed, you can transfer the dimensions of the bottom and sides using cardboard templates. With this simple process, you should ensure that there are no allowances, even a couple of millimeters. Especially on different sides.

Then a jigsaw is used with a file with small teeth tucked into it. Large ones can loosen the cut edge. But even after a small one, it is better to carefully go through with medium-sized sandpaper. You need to cut carefully, without rushing. One wrong movement, the slightest departure from the drawn line - and at best you have to go back a few centimeters, at worst, start this detail from the very beginning. That is, by drawing a new one.

Frames can be drawn and cut in full size at once. But with the transom you have to think about it. If a motor boat is conceived, then it must be made reinforced. There are two options. One is to cut several identical pieces of plywood and glue them together. Or make a transom from a solid board with a thickness of at least 25 mm.

We start collecting

The boat is assembled according to the "stitch and glue" principle. Better to start with the transom - then it will be easier to install the sides. Holes are drilled at the rear of the bottom and at the bottom of the transom so that the copper wire will pass through. The holes must be strictly opposite each other. With the help of pieces of wire, the transom is attached to the bottom. After making sure that the edges are aligned, tighten the wire twists with pliers.

Instead of copper wire, you can take a wire of a suitable diameter

The boards are attached in the same way, starting from the stern and ending with the last twist at the bow of the boat. At this point, we got a collapsible model, which can still be corrected. Cut off excess, smooth out irregularities. After the next operation, you can forget about the collapsible tactics.

Second gluing

Rather, gluing the seams between the bottom, sides and transom in order not only to fix the parts, but also to ensure moisture resistance. A strip of fiberglass is neatly placed on the seam and carefully coated with moisture resistant glue. One layer is not enough in this case. You will need at least three. And if the first layer of fiberglass is about 100 mm, that is, 50 on each side, then the second and third layers should be wider. 125-135 mm. will be just right, only each subsequent layer needs to be slightly shifted - one towards the bottom, the other, on the contrary, towards the side. This is done so that the fiberglass is in contact and glued directly to the plywood. After high-quality drying of the glue, this foldable pad will turn into almost real plastic, and this will guarantee that the boat is moisture resistant.

Installation of frames

Frames are installed strictly in place on an adhesive base and screwed on with self-tapping screws. After the glue dries, the screws are unscrewed, and the holes left by them are filled with the same glue. If nails are used instead of self-tapping screws, then after pulling them out, it is necessary to hammer wooden nails into the holes and grease with glue.

Final moisture resistance

This completes the construction of the boat. The interior and exterior decoration remained, serving not only for aesthetics, but also to prevent the boat from leaking. Ordinary wooden boats will tar, but with what to impregnate a plywood boat - there is a very specific answer to this question. Outside, all the seams and the entire body are processed with fiberglass and glue, in the same way as was done when gluing the parts. Before this operation, remove or cut off the protruding wire. The inside of the plywood boat is soaked in hot drying oil.

When pasting the boat with fiberglass, it is necessary to carefully monitor that there are no bubbles

Painting

On this, the construction of a plywood boat can be considered complete. It will take some time to dry, and by and large you can already swim on it. On oars, with the help of an engine, if we tried to make a transom for a motor, or even under sail, if this is provided for by the design. It is already completely waterproof, but absolutely not aesthetic. Painting is the very last stage, and then the boat will be finished completely.

There are two options here. Or oil paint - the color is chosen to taste - for fishing something merging with nature, for walking you can brighten. Or waterproof enamel, selected according to the same principle. You will have to wait a little longer until the paint or enamel dries up - and you can safely go sailing.

the main thing

Before you start building a plywood boat yourself, you need to understand that such homemade products do not tolerate a negligent approach to business. This can affect not only the appearance of the product, but also your own safety and reliability. The first thing that you need to pay special attention to is the room in which the work will be carried out. If it was decided to build a boat in winter or early spring, then drafts and high humidity must be excluded.

The second thing that needs to be watched especially is the material and tools. Plywood must be selected without knots, glue, paint and drying oil only from a trusted manufacturer. The tool should be in perfect order. The jigsaw is filled with a file with a small tooth size.

If a motorboat is planned, special attention should be paid to the transom. For its manufacture, it is better to take a solid oak board. Plywood glued in several layers will also work, but the board will be more reliable.

It is also strictly necessary to monitor the symmetry of the bottom and the sameness of the sides. An incorrect bend of one side on a boat or on a dinghy, depending on what is being built, will lead to the fact that it will begin to scour the water or take away in one direction.

And the last thing: no need to hurry. If the instructions for the glue indicate that it should dry for three days, then further work should only be started on the fourth. The same principles apply with paint and drying oil.

Build a plywood boat yourself is not an easy task. But there is nothing particularly complicated in this. You just need to spend some time and apply the maximum of knowledge and skills that can be easily gleaned both on the Internet and from more knowledgeable people. But after the completion of this interesting and creative work, it will be possible to safely go to the reservoir on a unique floating craft, built with your own hands.

First, hello everyone! In my dreams, this boat was a long time ago, - a few years ago I made a mock-up of this boat, but everything was somehow lacking in time. And then my "Ufimka" burst (it's high time, it has been since 1985), so much so that in the side a meter-long hole formed in the form of the letter "G". Believe me, if I wanted to, I could have repaired it too, but imagine how much material I had at once: both oarlocks, and excellent bottom and side fabric rubber, oars, etc. There is little left - to purchase sheet plastic. I considered aluminum as an option, but after getting acquainted with the properties of polypropylene (it's also lighter than water), I finally established myself on plastic. I’ll make a reservation right away, nothing came of the chapeau - about 1000 shekels one sheet, but I need at least two. I selected a 3mm plastic with the main properties: not to crack under bending load and to keep the rivet line from destruction (very many samples cracked exactly along the line of rivet holes) at a price of 200 shekels per sheet. My initial conditions were the following: a folding boat, with a maximum folded length of 1.5 m, a 2-seater boat with a carrying capacity of at least 180 kg, absolute buoyancy, i.e. not sinking even when full of water, stern, keel with the transition of the keel to a minimum at the stern, stable in waves, light when working with oars and with a small dead weight, with an option for a small electric motor and with useful accessories, such as a "chest of drawers" for accessories and boxes for bait under the seats, light stands for spinning and, of course, with minimal time for assembly and disassembly. I met all these parameters. Boat weight 18 kg. And now its dimensions: in working order, length 2.5 m, width 0.95 m, side height 0.3 m, total height 0.45 m; in transport condition: length 1.5m, width 0.3m, package thickness 0.08 m. The set also includes 2 seats, stern insert, frame stiffening tubes and oars. Now about how we had to achieve some parameters. Buoyancy - along the sides, strips of material similar to soldier's mattresses are glued (they do not sink and are moisture resistant), seats and feed are pasted over with the same strips, all frame tubes are plastic with plugs at the ends, which does not allow water to fill them, as a last resort, if this will not be enough (although it is unlikely), I have marked out on the bow and stern of the boat places for attaching 2 floats, like those that rescuers from the famous series). As a connecting material I used rubber strips from the bottom, and a stern flexible part from the side of my "Ufimka", planted on glue with subsequent riveting. He carried out all the work in his apartment, in the absence of household members - fortunately, when they arrived, the whole system was easily hidden behind the sofa.

I indicated the weight of the boat -18kg. Cost: 400 sh - plastic, 100 sh - glue and rivets, 100 sh - pipe and couplings for the stiffening frame, 50 sh - connecting screws with wing nuts and fasteners for side plastic. Everything else: rubber and oarlocks from an old boat, plywood for seats and under oarlocks - trims, edging along the top of the side - trimming pipes for drip irrigation. And the rest is hands. And how much it can cost for sale, I don't know, maybe the fishermen themselves will appreciate it? As for the pressure on the lower seam, I distributed the main pressure (in the sitting position) to 3 seams, there is an option for a tube connection and side seams for oblique supports in the same way as the keel part. As for the flooring, a 50x60cm wooden lattice is enough between the seats with two transverse ribs along the bottom outline. I also want to pull the umbrella fabric over the top with Velcro from the bow of the boat to the first seat in case of rain, to keep things dry. At the beginning I wanted to make a 3-meter one, but I had to buy another sheet of plastic with a large remainder after cutting. So I went to the minimum.

Shl. The cost of materials is indicated in NIS.

The production time, so, unhurriedly, is about a week. It took a long time to find the right plastic. I’m retired, so when my household left, I got everything from behind the back of the sofa and did it. I already wrote that the rubber, oarlocks and oars were from the broken boat, and the rest was a matter of technology. But first, I made a model of thin plastic 25 cm long. And with this boat it was easier for me also because it is my second home-made boat. The first was a frame made of plastic pipes and thin tarpaulin. It was disassembled no longer than a meter. In short, a bag of pipes and a cover. I also want to do this. It was even lighter, and with the current choice of material, there should be shine.
And about the pattern, everything is simple. The width of the canvas is 30 cm, the short piece is 1 meter long, the bow piece is 1.5 meters. Depart from the bow edge 1 meter and bring two arcs to the middle. The photo is clearly visible. But I advise you to start with a small model. There, instead of rubber, you can use tape (duct tape). All possible options can be foreseen on the model, and it is much easier to correct errors. Honestly, I did not betray the name of the plastic. I was looking for polypropylene at first, since it is not brittle and lighter than water, but it has an exorbitant (for me) price. Then he began to select according to the principle: crumpled, felt, broke. The main condition is not to burst at full bend (this means that the body will not burst on impact), not to crack along the rivet holes. And I kept buoyancy in a flooded state due to additional side linings from a soldier's rug. Ordinary rubber glue, but the main condition for gluing: cleaning, stripping and degreasing the surfaces to be glued, and the mandatory aging of min. 15 minutes after applying the glue, before bonding. And I also consider it very important to glue the edges of the rubber bands along the entire length of the boat with thin strips of rubberized fabric, like in factory boats.
About the changes. Already changed: the boat is designed for 2 people, but with one person the center of gravity goes to the "bow" of the boat and it goes down, and the stern rises, the wave is overwhelmed, so the rower's seat was moved closer to the center of gravity, which is easy to identify by the layout -models. As for the board height, I proceeded from the maximum cutting of a standard sheet. but, for the future, I think that a side width of 40 cm, instead of 33, will still be preferable, and the stability will increase due to an increase in the total width of the boat.

The boat is double in terms of the number of seats and carrying capacity.
It is not necessary to beat anyone with oars, when two are in the boat, the seat is inserted closer to the "bow" of the boat, and when one is, then 30 cm to the stern. As for convenience, it is naturally more convenient for one, but, if desired, the boat will withstand the second. Good luck!

Folding boat for mercury 3.3

Homemade folding boat

InstaBOAT For Sale_Setup the Boat

From ancient times to the present day, one of the integral parts of the development of mankind has been the craft of a fisherman. The first intelligent creatures caught fish with their hands, relying only on their own dexterity, and with the development of reason and human abilities, certain devices and tools appeared (from a sharpened stick, which pricked fish in shallow water, to modern high-quality rods and reels), which made it possible to catch more fish and faster.

One of the most significant inventions of mankind is the creation of floating facilities, which have progressed from an ordinary raft made of tree trunks fastened together to comfortable yachts and cruise ships.

The simplest boat, invented at the initial stage of the development of shipping, is in demand even now, because millions of men and women, experiencing primitive excitement, spend hours and even days fishing, which is an excellent form of active and healthy recreation.

Also, the boat is an excellent means of cultural pastime - isn't it great to take a walk before going to bed on a rowboat on the lake near the cottage to the sound of birds singing and the splashing of fish out in the evening? This type of relaxation will be an excellent soothing for the nerves and a way to immerse yourself in yourself and your thoughts.

Unfortunately, good boats often have a very high price, which not everyone can afford. And if the boat is not used very often, then there is no sense in such large expenses.

Fortunately, there are many types of this individual craft, which (with a certain perseverance and responsibility in the approach), it is quite easy to assemble with your own hands from not the most scarce materials. This article will be devoted specifically to collecting your own boat with your own hands.

Boat types

Boats, depending on the design, immersion depth, hull shape, propulsion force and material of manufacture, are of various types.

The main types of boats by type of material:

rubber (inflatable);
metal;
wooden;

By the type of driving force, there are three main types of boats:

rowing (oar);
motor;
sailing.

Also, boats are divided into types by type of structures:

dugout boats - hollowed out (or burned out) from a tree trunk;
composite boats - assembled from two or three or more parts;
frame - rigid structure covered with sheathing (tarpaulin, wood, bark, plywood).

And finally, boats differ in the type of landing on the water:

flat-bottomed;
round bottom;
keeled.

What kind of boat will we build

We will focus on the construction of a plywood frame flat-bottomed boat, in view of the fact that the materials required for the construction of such a vessel are not in short supply and are readily available. In addition, such a boat will cost us quite cheaply, which will be an undeniable plus.

A flat-bottomed boat is very convenient in its operation, its flat bottom allows you to navigate even in shallow water - you can start your voyage from the very shore and make it even along small forest rivers. Even the flat bottom provides the boat with reliable stability on the water, and the material of manufacture provides good buoyancy.

Construction of a frame plywood flat-bottomed boat:

The flat-bottomed boat has a very simple design, which attracts people who want to assemble the boat with their own hands.

Its design includes:

a frame assembled from frames (transverse ribs of the boat) and a keel beam (a longitudinal beam running in the center and forming a keel - a kind of spine of the ship) - a set of a ship;
sheathing (in our case, plywood).

In shipbuilding, each detail has its own specific name, which is not recommended to be confused. Let's get acquainted with a few of them - so as not to fall face down in the mud when discussing your finished boat with a professional shipbuilder, to whom you may decide to show off your success.

Construction details and their dimensions - what you need

on the side - 5 millimeters;
on the bottom - 6 millimeters.

a hammer;
hacksaw;
jigsaw;
chisel;
plane;
sandpaper;
meter;
ruler;
construction pencil;
plumb line;
level;
epoxy glue.

Workplace preparation

Start workflow

So, on the slipway or on your floor, in the grooves on the fixed crossbeams, a keel bar is installed, prepared according to the drawing of the boat that we are going to build in advance. I would like to note that the drawing must be done accurately and thoughtfully, but, despite this, it execution will not be difficult - it is enough to estimate the size of the desired boat and correlate it with the dimensions indicated above, as well as think over your unique shape, guided by the knowledge gained from the previous paragraphs.

Rough installation of frames

Installing stringers

After the epoxy glue has dried, carry out similar operations first with the cheekbones and then with the bottom stringers.

Preparing the frame for sheathing

The boat frame is almost ready. Now it needs to be prepared for sheathing. Preparation consists in removing all protrusions and roughness with a planer and sandpaper, to streamline. Stringers should not protrude beyond the edge of the frames, stem and transom. It is necessary to control the quality of preparation for the skin using thin rails, bending around the sides of the future boat and checking how tightly it adheres to all parts of the structure.

The implementation of the next phase of boat construction will determine the entire success of your venture. Sheathing is one of the most critical stages in the construction of your small boat. Sheathing of a flat-bottomed boat should be carried out in sequence: first the bottom, then the sides. Sheathing is carried out with sheets of plywood of the largest possible size, pre-treated from the inside with linseed oil in several layers. Avoid joints as much as possible. If this is not possible, then glue the joints on the reverse side with strips of the same plywood, of considerable width.

Additionally, from the inside, the cladding can be coated with building varnish after installation on the frame. After complete drying and careful inspection, you need to carefully sand the surface.

Boat painting

That's it, your boat is ready. Hard work is behind you, and right in front of you is your creation, created by your own hands. Now it remains to collect fishing rods, dig up worms, lower the boat (light enough, since it is sheathed with plywood) into the water and hit the road, or at least for a short walk. But it is important to leave one advice in this article - never forget about your own safety. There is nothing more valuable than a human life, and no fish that is successfully caught will pay for it. Fill the space at the bow of the boat and between the frames with styrofoam or plastic containers, if you have, put on a life life belly.
We also need plywood for sheathing with a thickness:

on the side - 5 millimeters;
on the bottom - 6 millimeters.

Among other things, you will need tools. Their list:

a hammer;
hacksaw;
jigsaw;
chisel;
plane;
sandpaper;
meter;
ruler;
construction pencil;
plumb line;
level;
epoxy glue.

After preparing the necessary structural parts, you can start assembling the frame.

Workplace preparation

To begin with, you need a slipway - this is a flat wooden shield measuring 3.5 meters by 1 meter, which is necessary for installing the keel bar and the subsequent assembly of the frame. The floor of your workshop is also suitable as a slipway, on which you need to firmly fix the keel using bars with grooves.

The tool should always be at hand. The workplace should be comfortable and clean.

Frame assembly, instructions and assembly order

Start workflow

So, on the slipway or on your floor, in the grooves on the fixed cross-members, a keel bar is installed, prepared according to the drawing of the boat that we are going to build, prepared in advance by you.

I would like to note that the drawing should be executed accurately and thoughtfully, but, despite this, its implementation will not be difficult - it is enough to estimate the dimensions of the desired boat and correlate with the dimensions indicated above, and also think over your unique shape, guided by the knowledge gained from the previous points.

Rough installation of frames

Frames are installed with temporary fasteners convenient for you on a pre-marked keel bar, taking into account the fact that the zero frame, consisting only of a transom (with a groove prepared for the keel bar) and its attachment in the form of a wooden corner, is attached with respect to the vertical plane at 10 degrees.

Installation of frames in prepared grooves

Frames (with grooves prepared on their outer side for the keel and fender, as well as for stringers), set along the plumb line and level, are installed on the keel with nails / screws and epoxy glue.

Installing stringers

The stringers are installed in the same way as the keel bar - in the pre-prepared grooves of the frames and fixed with epoxy glue and nails / screws.

The order of installing stringers is as follows:

zygomatic stringers (located at the junction of toptibers and floortimbers);
bottom stringers located symmetrically to the keel bar at a distance of ½ from the keel to the zygomatic stringers;
side stringers (located slightly above ½ of the height of the ribs).

Fixation of stringers and stem

Probably the most difficult procedure when assembling a boat, since in order to fit the stringers to the stem (bow of the boat), they will need to be bent and securely fixed.

This procedure is carried out as follows: after adjusting and installing the stem on the keel bar using a groove method, it is necessary to wait until the epoxy glue has completely dried, and then mark the grooves on the stem, cut them out and fit the side stringers to them, fixing in a standard way.

After the epoxy glue has dried, carry out similar operations first with the cheekbones and then with the bottom stringers.

Preparing the frame for sheathing

It is necessary to control the quality of preparation for the plating with the help of thin slats, bending around the sides of the future boat and checking how tightly it fits to all parts of the structure.

Attention! Poor preparation of the boat for the skin will inevitably lead to leaks as a result of a loose fit of the skin to the frame. Sheathing: The most important thing is the bottom and sides of the boat.

Sheathing is carried out with sheets of plywood of the largest possible size, pre-processed from the inside with drying oil in several layers. Avoid joints as much as possible. If this is not possible, then glue the joints on the reverse side with strips of the same plywood, of considerable width.

In no case should the joints be allowed on the frames - it is better between them. Carefully work each joint with epoxy glue or other sealing methods. Fasten with screws. Also carefully work out the attachment points with epoxy.

Additionally, from the inside, the cladding can be coated with building varnish after installation on the frame. After complete drying and careful inspection, you need to carefully sand the surface.

Boat painting

Painting a boat is a simple matter, it all depends on your tastes and creativity. But since your brand new boat is sheathed with plywood, it is best to paint over it with a thick layer of epoxy paint, which can be found in any hardware store. Epoxy paint will not only look good, but it will also make the boat even more airtight.

But it is important to leave one piece of advice in this article - never forget about your own safety. There is nothing more valuable than a human life, and no fish that is successfully caught will pay for it. Fill the free space in the bow of the boat and between the frames with foam or plastic containers.

If you have one, put it on. And never go out on the water in a strong wind.
Happy sailing!