Why putty the walls: putty walls for wallpaper and painting. Whether it is necessary to putty drywall under the wallpaper is a question that does not require proof. Is it necessary to putty before gluing the wallpaper

Repair is not an easy business and requires compliance with certain rules to obtain a high-quality result that will delight you for many years. Therefore, before finishing the walls, many people think about whether it is necessary to prime the walls before puttingty? The answer to this and other questions of interest is below in the article.

To prime or not to prime is the question

Do walls need to be primed before puttingty? Primer application is a must for any renovation that involves wall finishing. A properly treated surface before finishing guarantees a long-lasting attractive appearance. The primer will be useful in the following cases:

1. Regardless of the material from which the wall is made (brick, wood, drywall), there are microcracks and irregularities in it. The primer smoothes them out. The result is a smoother structure, on which the subsequent finishing lays down much better.
2. The composition of the primer mixture improves adhesion to the paint, so it looks good and does not crack even several years after application.
3. When using primer, the level of putty consumption is significantly reduced.
4. The primer mixture, when hardened, forms a film that prevents the appearance of various stains on the treated surface.
5. It is much easier to apply and evenly distribute the putty on the treated wall surface.
6. The composition of the soil can include a variety of additives that have antiseptic, antifungal, anti-mold and moisture-protective properties.

Do walls need to be primed before finishing putty? Of course, because the mixture has a lot of useful properties that will help preserve the appearance of the renovated premises for many years.

Varieties of soil

The modern market offers a large number of different soil mixtures for use in construction. There are 3 main types:

1. Concentrate.
2. Dry mix.
3. Ready-to-use primer.

For independent use, acrylic-based primer is considered the best option. It is versatile and therefore suitable for all surfaces. In addition, the acrylic primer does not have an unpleasant, pungent odor, dries quickly and forms a durable surface.

In addition to acrylic, there are several more varieties of the mixture:

1. Alkyd- ideal for wood processing, as they have anti-corrosion properties. However, they are not suitable for drywall and plastered surfaces.
2. Mineral- are characterized by a high speed of solidification (2-3 hours). Suitable for all surfaces.
3. Quartz- form a rough surface that is ideal for subsequent or paint.

The choice depends on personal preference and requirements for the final result.

The choice of soil for different types of walls

Experts advise choosing a primer depending on the material from which the walls are made.

1. A smooth concrete surface requires the application of mixtures with abrasive particles that roughen the surface to be treated.
2. The metal surface is coated with anti-corrosion compounds that prevent the appearance of rust.
3. Wooden walls are covered with water-based compounds. For these purposes, you can use drying oil or shellac mixture. It is important that the primer contains substances that repel bark beetles and other pests, and also protect the surface from mold.
4. For rooms with high humidity or insufficient heating, materials are used that have an antibacterial effect.

For ease of use, many manufacturers indicate compatibility with wall varieties on the primer packaging.

Preparation for application

After we figured out whether it is necessary to prime the walls before puttingty, the surface should be properly prepared. To do this, it is thoroughly cleaned of dust, dirt and old coatings.

It is also important to keep the walls dry. Primers are applied exclusively to a degreased surface. Failure to observe this point can cause uneven application, cracks, detachment and other troubles.

Preparing the primer

To prepare the mixture for application, you should follow the instructions that are found on any package of the composition.

1. Ready-to-use mixtures just need to be mixed and poured into a container convenient for use.
2. The dry mixture is diluted with water in the proportions indicated by the manufacturer and mixed thoroughly.
3. The concentrate should also be diluted according to the advice on the packaging.

It is important that the mixture is homogeneous, without lumps, and not too runny, otherwise the result will be unsatisfactory.

Application technique

How To get the perfect result, follow these guidelines:

Compliance with the technology of applying primer is a guarantee of a good result and long-term preservation of the subsequent finishing coating.

Primer after plaster

Do I need a putty? Definitely yes, since its structure allows you to level a rough surface.

Before applying a layer of primer, make sure that the plaster is completely dry, otherwise it may crack in the future. This process can take several weeks if it was used by the builders to level the walls. Therefore, these repairs are usually carried out in summer, when dry and warm air accelerates the drying process.

The consumption of the solution when applied to plaster will be much higher, since the surface absorbs a large amount of moisture, so you will often need to dip the roller into the container. It is recommended to apply several coats for best results.

Nuances of work

Do walls need to be primed before puttingty? This question is asked by many newbies who are faced with renovation work for the first time. Of course, the soil must be used, but the following nuances should also be taken into account:

1. After cleaning the surface, 2-4 layers of primer should be applied to the wall. It should stop dusting, be smooth and have a uniform color.
2. The solution should be applied in a thin layer in order to avoid sagging.
3. After the primer has dried, putty can be applied.
4. When the layer of putty has completely hardened, it is recommended to apply a few more coats of topcoat to make the surface more durable.

These rules work with walls made of any material. Before starting work, it is important to know whether it is necessary to prime the plaster before filling the walls. The mixture is a fixer for any finish layer, therefore it must be applied after each stage of work.

Should the walls be primed before the putty? Experts respond positively. They also recommend adhering to the following tips when carrying out repair work:

1. For the treatment of drywall, mixtures with a high degree of penetration are used, this significantly reduces the ability of the material to absorb moisture.
2. Walls made of fresh wood treated with shellac will not emit tar and will not have color variations.
3. If the primer is applied before the putty in order to ensure better adhesion of the material, then after it it allows to increase the durability of the coating and the density of the layer.
4. It is recommended to perform work at temperatures from +5 to +10 degrees.
5. It is important to use formulations from the same manufacturer, as they may differ in composition, which will adversely affect the strength of the coating.
6. After applying the primer or putty, temperature changes during the first 3 days should be avoided, otherwise the coating may crack.
7. For convenience, you can apply the primer with a spray gun, so a more uniform layer can be achieved.

Do walls need to be primed before puttingty? Experts agree that this must be done. This way you can get a more resistant, stronger and more durable coating that will last you for many years.

Do you need to putty the walls before gluing the wallpaper, and how smooth the surface is for gluing - you need to know before starting the repair.

The overlap gluing method, when one panel slightly overlapped the other, made it possible not to notice the joints of the paper covering.

Modern technologies provide that the material is glued end-to-end, and this forces a special accuracy, which can only be achieved with a flat and smooth surface. Hence the urgent need for careful alignment of the wall.

Luxury or necessity

Even high-quality expensive wallpaper applied to the base with defects will begin to peel off and bubble

Modern technology of wall decoration for wallpaper provides for the mandatory application of a leveling layer, which is due to new building materials used in repair work. The widespread practice of removing the old coating and applying a new one immediately after this process is not applicable when finishing work with OSB slabs, drywall, concrete or brick wall.

The most fashionable and expensive coatings lose their appearance immediately after application if it is made on an uneven surface with cracks, chips or pits. The smooth wall contributes to both the greater preservation of the finishing material and the lower consumption of the applied glue.

If you putty the walls under the wallpaper, then the applied composition contributes to greater adhesion of the wall and coating, significantly increasing the adhesive ability of the base.

This gives a guarantee of long-term operation without bubbles, peeling and deformation, which is especially necessary if universal wallpapers are chosen that have excellent properties, but at the same time are not as cheap as paper ones.

Leveling the surface is not just giving it evenness and smoothness, but also providing significant strength to the material that is used for rough wall decoration.

Advantages of wall putty

Putty is applied in several layers

The professional doing the renovation will insist that the walls be putty before wallpapering. Making repairs with your own hands presupposes the quality of its execution, which can only be guaranteed by careful adherence to technologies, the implementation of the necessary stages, their sequence.

The use of the technology in the "as for myself" option provides that the wall must not only be plastered from noticeable unevenness of the relief and to level out the color, but also apply a finishing leveling layer.

After applying the putty, the wall adhesion will improve and the wallpaper will lay down more firmly.

This will provide the following prerogatives:

• walls will absorb less moisture;
• gain greater strength;
• will increase the adhesiveness and hold the wallpaper better;
• visual defects that spoil the final appearance will disappear;
• the amount of glue required will decrease;
• the joints will become invisible, and the glue will not protrude into them;
• the wallpaper will not be damaged in the places of the glued defects.

Some modern wall decoration materials for wallpaper simply will not hold the decorative layer if you do not apply a protective coating to them. This is due to the raw materials used in them, which at the same time provide excellent qualities and make them vulnerable to wet glue application.

Plastered walls under wallpaper is a fairly simple process, but necessary when performing a truly high-quality repair or decoration.

The high-quality execution of finishing or repair work in any case provides that the wall must be leveled and a finishing layer must be applied. Otherwise, expensive materials with a decorative function will not last as long as they are guaranteed.

Specificity of materials used for wall panels

The brick wall is leveled with a starting and finishing layer

The most common types of wall panel finishing today, according to experts, require an indispensable additional finishing. The technology and sequence of work depends on the type of panels used or the initial wall material:

If this is not done, the old wallpaper will be removed with the top layer of plaster, and the panels will have to be reinstalled. A putty plasterboard wall will easily allow you to remove the old coating.

Possible defects in finishing work

Some repairers insist on the perfect smoothness of the created topcoat.

If, when applying the finishing layer, distribute the material evenly with a spatula, and then level it with a special tool, then sanding can be dispensed with.

Decide what, taking into account the specifics of the material of the wall panels, choosing the appropriate brand of putty with the required properties.

The use of putty compounds for other purposes can lead to a result that will be the opposite of what is expected. The use of a protective layer allows you to avoid the usual defects that accompany wallpapering. For more information on filling, see this video:

Table of defects in finishing work when gluing wallpaper.

Types of putty and their intended purpose

Wait for each layer of putty to dry

The preliminary stage of wall preparation includes not only cleaning, dedusting and removing the remnants of old wallpaper and plaster. In older houses, there is a high probability of finding large surface defects that will have to be plastered.

Plaster is traditionally prepared from sand and cement in a ratio of 3: 1. After everything is dry, it is done, and only after that you can start applying the finishing layer. Walls after plastering necessarily require a priming, which provides a strong bond between the surface and the applied topcoat. Otherwise, there is a risk of starting anew repair work. For a detailed overview of the properties, see this video:

Whether such a step-by-step finishing is needed is decided on the spot, and in any case, the putty must correspond either to the ground layer or to the type of panels used. To select the required type of composition suitable for the type of wall coverings, it is necessary to consult with a specialized specialist.

Cement mixes are suitable for finishing in a damp room

To purchase the necessary compositions of putty, you should learn a little about their quality composition and purpose:

• with a cement content, suitable for damp rooms, but mainly used for outdoor decoration after plastering;
• gypsum-containing ones are inexpensive, but they are used where a stable temperature is maintained;
• polymer is not cheap, but versatile and economical when working with gypsum plasterboards;
• with the addition of latex, they require a thin layer, are resistant to significant mechanical stress;
• acrylics can be used both as starting and finishing, are widespread due to their suitability for any wall covering;
• for rooms with high humidity, a finishing putty of walls with the addition of oil or glue is used, but it is hardly worth gluing wallpaper on it in such a room.

The putty can be purchased both dry and ready-made. Dry requires an additional preparatory stage, but it is stored longer and cheaper. Ready-made can be immediately applied to the wall, but its cost is higher, and it can be stored open for a very short time.

Correct application is half the battle

Wallpapering, especially when used for walls or OSB boards, should be carried out with the indispensable observance of the subtleties of the preparatory stage. One of its essential components is the application of the putty. Is it possible to do without it if there is not enough time or money? For more information on preparing the base for wallpapering, see this video:

Some people apply wallpaper to a primer. Probably, you can do without wallpaper if the premises are temporary or the apartment is planned to be sold.

To avoid unnecessary expenses, you can buy not two types, but one - there is a special putty, universal, which is used in both cases - both at the start and at the finish.

You should buy a dry composition and prepare it at home.

An indispensable condition is the correct application of a professionally selected composition, which is selected taking into account the material of the panels and applied in an even layer. And it is also desirable that the front of the work was completed in one day, and the walls dry evenly.

Choose universal or good

Versatile mixes work well for any substrate

How to choose the right mixture for filling walls is not decided on the market, but at the place of repair work. And this choice is influenced by the necessary urgency of the work, and the characteristics of the wall, and the humidity of the room, and even the state of finances. In order not to get a negative result, the choice must be carefully planned.

Experts are more and more inclined to choose a universal putty, which combines the qualities of a finishing and starting, can be used to treat any surface, is moisture resistant and dries quickly and does not depend on room conditions. It is not the cheapest one sold in hardware stores, but a good thing, by definition, cannot be cheap.

If the repair is done by hand, and for yourself, then you need to choose materials of excellent quality so that they are convenient to use..

The choice of putty based on the wall material: concrete, brick, wood. Selection of a primer for putty. Principles of material application, sanding. Tips for beginners.

Wallpaper putty

Before you start wallpapering, you need to prepare the walls.

Putty under the wallpaper is applied only after the completion of all work on plastering the walls.

Drywall is called dry plaster, this base should also be putty and prepared for pasting.

Do I need to putty the walls under the wallpaper

This should be done for several reasons:

1. Plastered walls have many defects that will be visible when wallpapering. They can especially stand out when striped wallpapers or thin, light colors are glued.
2. After plastering and drying, the walls may have cracks. They must be repaired. Because the reasons for the appearance of this deficiency are unknown - they expand from the movement of the soil, with an incorrectly made solution, they can remain unchanged.
3. After filling, the walls become more protected from external factors.
4. Filling the plasterboard wall is imperative because the masters do not recommend gluing wallpaper on "bare" drywall for many reasons - from the loss of the appearance of the wallpaper to unpleasant surprises when removing them.

Surface filling is carried out in several stages:

1. Determination of the unevenness of the wall and its preparation.
2. Application of the starting mixture.
3. Finishing coat and bringing the surface to a perfect finish.

With proper puttying, the surface will be ready for wallpapering.

Correctness of work will exclude peeling of putty layers and wallpaper falling off.

Types of ready-made putty for walls: which is better

A well-putty surface is the result of the final work of the master and an indicator of the materials used.

Ready putty mixtures allow to reduce the time of the master for kneading the putty.

The most used types of ready-made putties:

1. Latex acrylic - applied to any surface, including drywall. Its most widespread use is for surface finishing. The elastic mortar allows you to make a layer of putty of 1-3 mm.
2. Oil-glue and glue - has a high density, so professionals work with it. It is difficult to apply to the surface, but when it dries, it has a certain strength.
3. Putty with PVA. It has antifungal components, therefore it is applicable in damp rooms.

It is better for a novice master to work with a ready-made solution. It is more plastic, adheres well to plaster and retains its qualities after drying.

Homepage: best choice

In addition to ready-made mixtures, dry solutions for filling are sold on the market.
The starting putty is applied to the prepared plastered walls.

The most commonly used putties are:

• cement mortars;
• gypsum mixtures;
• polymer putties.

The cement putty is used in a damp room. It is coarse-grained, with a gray tint.

Gypsum mixtures are used in a dry room that is heated in winter. It contains quicklime.

Polymer - used in both wet and dry rooms. Has high elasticity.

Starter putty manufacturers:

1. Knauf starting putty is designed for indoor work. It has a plaster base. Due to its environmentally friendly composition, the mixture is used in children's rooms. The disadvantage of the putty is considered to be fast solidification. The maximum layer of the applied solution is 1.5 cm.
2. Volma-Standard. Consists of gypsum and mineral compounds. After filling, you can start gluing. The surface is smooth and firm. Fast setting is considered a disadvantage.
3. Osnovit-Eonsilk is a gypsum base. Designed for dry rooms. Plastic, has no shrinkage. The thickness of the applied layer is 1 mm, if more, then cracks appear during drying.

Observing the correct preparation of the solution, filling the wall will have a good result.

Finish: how to choose according to the rating of the best

After the starting putty has dried and the work is carried out, the finishing mixture is applied. The most popular are:

1. Prospectors - Finish. The composition includes gypsum and additives. Applied in rooms with high humidity. Shrink-resistant, flexible, quick-drying. Minus - low surface strength after drying.
2. WEBER LR +. The applied layer is 1-5 mm. the working solution does not freeze within 2 days. After drying, an even, smooth white surface is obtained. The putty is applied both manually and mechanically.
3. Sheetrock Superfinish - contains vinyl additives, therefore the putty has high plasticity. The 2 mm layer dries up after 5 hours. However, all subsequent works of the master are recommended to be carried out one day after application. Has shrinkage.

How to choose a good coarse

Coarse-grained putty is needed for the initial treatment of the wall after plastering. The most popular are:

• Unis Blik - contains natural materials. Do not use in rooms with high humidity. Reinforcing mesh is used for filling the surface. No shrinkage. Has plasticity, after drying there are no cracks;
• Vgt acrylic universal - based on acrylic. Layer thickness 1-7 mm. Has a slight shrinkage, good adhesion.

All types of cement-based mixtures are coarse-grained putties.

Which is best for deep alignment

Starting putties. With their help, it is possible to eliminate all errors of plastering work, cracks. It is coarse-grained, applied to the surface up to 20 mm.

Leading manufacturers:

• Putty Knauf HP (starting) - gypsum putty, applied with a layer of 4 mm to 15 mm. The main direction is leveling the surface before the topcoat. After mixing, the solution quickly hardens, after 15 minutes the work stops. Does not shrink.
• Ceresit CT 29 starting - performance of work on a concrete, brick, cement-sand wall. Cracks, recesses left after plaster are closed with it. The maximum applied layer is 20 mm. Not suitable for work in rooms with high humidity. After mixing, the solution can be used within 50 minutes. It takes 10-15 hours to completely dry on the surface. High strength.
• Kreisel 662 is universal - it contains cement and lime. Apply in a thin layer to plaster or uncoated surfaces. Has high adhesion. The mixture is used in rooms with high humidity. Maximum layer 3 mm., There is shrinkage.

When cracks are detected, in addition to putty, reinforcing tape must be used. It will not let the crack grow bigger.

What putty to choose for drywall

The plasterboard surface is treated several times. Initially, a putty is used for joints together with a reinforced tape. The second stage is the coating with a starting putty.

The next step is to cover the surface with a finishing putty. Only after one layer has completely dried, it is necessary to proceed to the next work.

Under the wallpaper, the plasterboard surface is covered with layers of putty for greater strength of the entire structure.

For a neat appearance, because if thin wallpaper is glued onto the sheets without treatment, the color of the wall will appear on the wallpaper.

How to putty wooden surfaces before gluing wallpaper

Putting on a wooden surface is different from concrete, brick. There are factors influencing the choice of a putty mixture for wood:

• high adhesion - the service life of the putty under the wallpaper depends on this;
• the solution must be elastic;
• fast drying.

Applicable types of mortar for wood surfaces:

1. Gypsum-based mixture.
2. Latex putty.
3. A mixture with the addition of acrylic.
4. Oil mixture.
5. Putty with PVA.

Basically, craftsmen use gypsum mixtures that do not shrink and have good plasticity.

Which putty is better to putty on untreated concrete

The concrete wall generally does not have large differences in the plane. Therefore, skipping the plastering, proceed immediately to the filling with the starting compound.

The base coat consists of several layers. Moreover, the second layer is applied only after the first one has completely dried. For coating, cement compositions are stirred. They have shrinkage, so the layer should not be thick.

The finish layer should be thin. It is difficult to hide the gray color of the starting material under it, however, a thin layer makes the surface smooth, ready for wallpapering.

Universal putties are also used. But, apply them in a thin layer 2 times. They are flexible and do not shrink. If the walls are even, the differences are 2-5 mm, then the use of mixtures is permissible.

How many coats to apply on bare concrete walls

On a practically flat concrete surface, 1 layer of starting putty is applied. The layer thickness does not exceed 15 mm. Beginners should use a perforated beacon profile to level the wall. It is fixed on the mixture, the evenness is regulated by the level. Work begins only after the mortar under the profile has completely dried.

Attention. If there are wooden slats, they are used as beacons. But, the rail should not be high and jagged, otherwise there will be a ribbed surface.

What technologies exist

The wizards use 4 methods that are suitable for beginners:

1. Mechanical method of applying the solution.
2. Semi-mechanical - applying the mixture, and then leveling it with a spatula.
3. Beacon - used for starting filling.

For the mechanical method, a machine is applicable that sprays the putty in a thin layer. After applying the layer, level the plane with a spatula with a wide blade.

Semi-mechanical - the machine throws large drops on the wall, which must be stretched evenly over the entire wall.

Beacon is applicable for starting plaster. Suitable for beginners. The use of beacon profiles will speed up and facilitate the work.

How for beginners without experience to properly putty walls with their own hands: a step-by-step guide

Novice craftsmen need to know the nuances and correctness of the work.

The phased preparation of the solution, the application of the material to the surface includes:

• to prepare the solution, you must carefully read the instructions and know exactly how much water is needed for mixing;
• the starting solution is applied to the surface horizontally and vertically. To avoid bumps, it is not necessary to apply the solution from the floor itself. He clings to trash. Corner - here you need to go with a spatula perpendicular to the corner, horizontally to the floor. So there will be no “washboard”;
• for productive work, the solution is prepared in small portions. During development, it will not have time to freeze;
• the finishing layer is applied to the primed surface with a layer of 2 mm;
• when filling, the tool must be held at an angle of 30 degrees;
• after applying the solution to the walls, putty the corner with an angled spatula.

Surface preparation

In order for the surface to be perfectly flat, smooth, it is necessary to prepare the surface. This process consists of several steps:

1. Cleaning the walls from dust, extra pebbles, frozen drops of plaster. For cleaning, use mechanical means - grinders, brushes, spatulas.
2. Surface priming. This must be done for degreasing, and almost all primers contain antiseptic agents that protect the surface from the appearance of mold.

After processing the wall, proceed to the subsequent work.

Choosing the right tool

For proper filling with your own hands, you need to have a tool:

• construction mixer;
• a set of spatulas - a wide blade, small, angular;
• brush, roller for priming;
• the rule for creating a flat wall is 2 meters;
• level to control the evenness of the wall;
• sandpaper for rubbing the surface;
• skinner;
• container for the mixture.

All tools and containers must be clean. This will speed up the process and prevent the solution from quickly hardening. Since the solidified particles in the container and on the spatulas accelerate the solidification of the mixture.

How to putty as a beginner on uneven surfaces with starter putty

For applying the starting mixture to a dry clean wall, beginners are recommended to use metal profile beacons. They are installed along the wall so that the maximum distance from one profile to another is 1.5 meters.

Lighthouses are put on putty blades. Smoothness is deduced by level. The excess solution that has come out is removed. The mixture must be completely dry before starting work.

The putty is applied with blots to the wall and stretched over the surface, without crawling out of the installed beacons. The evenness of the surface is formed by the rule. With its help, the solution is tightened, the excess is removed from the instrument. If necessary, apply a second layer of the solution.

The second layer is applied only after the first has dried.

If the putty has shrinkage, then 20 minutes after application it must be tightened with the rule.

How many times the mixture is applied before hardening

The starting mixture is applied in a layer of 20 mm.

If you need to level the wall with a large layer, then apply a second layer.

But, this happens in rare cases, because after plastering the unevenness averages up to 1 cm.

Bare walls are putty if the unevenness is 2 cm. The plaster layer is applied once, maybe with an overlap.

How and what is the best way to check the readiness of the surface for subsequent stages of work

After filling the wall, the work must be left for a while. It all depends on the composition. Cement mortars shrink: after 20 minutes, the treated wall must be tightened with the rule. After 1 hour has passed, you need to run your palm over the surface, it should give "milk", while the solution is already hardened. This milk is carefully removed with a spatula. Make a wash. The cement mortar hardens for about a day. Check with the palm of your hand, the solution should not stick.

Gypsum and polymer mixtures do not shrink. After application, they do not need to be touched for at least 10 hours. After that, with a dry palm, you need to hold the surface. It should be dry and smooth. If dampness or sticking is felt, then the surface is left on for a while.

The exact drying time of the mixture on the surface is indicated on the manufacturer's packaging. This time must be waited.

Do I need a primer under the finishing putty: which one to use

All primers differ in their composition and purpose. Priming mixtures must be applied before finishing filler for the following reasons:

• the primer increases the adhesion of the applied materials. That is, the topcoat will better fit on the primed surface;
• if, after the starting mixture has dried, a "cobweb" of microcracks appears on the surface, then the primer clogs them, preventing moisture from penetrating there;
• the primer creates a thin film on the plane, protection against moisture absorption and the components of the finishing layer in the starting one. This allows the finishing solution to spread evenly. Material consumption is reduced.

The compatibility of the primer with the putty is shown in the table:

How to apply the finish yourself and putty correctly

For the correct application of the material to the surface, the principle must be followed - application of the material from dry to wet. It is necessary to retreat from the ceiling by 30-40 cm and apply a layer of mortar. The putty is applied from the ceiling in vertical movements.

It is better to apply the putty under the side light. To do this, use a diode lamp or a spotlight. Uncertain movement with a spatula and too thick filler leave a ribbed mark on the surface, visible under lamp light.

Vertical movements with a spatula near corners are not allowed. The tool touches the adjacent wall - a “washboard” appears. The tool is led from the corner to the opposite wall.

The finishing putty is applied in a layer of 1-3 mm, so the mixture should not be thick.

What to do after finishing putty: grout

After the walls have dried, they are sanded - rubbed.

To work you need:

• painting block;
• respirator;
• diode lamp;
• diamond mesh or sandpaper.

There are 2 ways to sand walls:

1. Grouting the walls with a diamond mesh or sandpaper (quickly clogged) under the wallpaper.
2. Grouting under the lamp with fine-grained "sandpaper".

In the first method, a bar is used on which a mesh of fraction 300-400 is used. There are irregularities on the wall that are invisible without a lamp. It is necessary to put on a mask and walk in a circular motion along the entire wall. Use a vacuum cleaner from time to time to collect dust on the floor.

When performing work, a lot of dust appears, so you will need an old vacuum cleaner, as well as good ventilation.

In the second case, the lamp is installed on the side so that the light goes along the wall. Then you can see all the flaws after the finishing layer. A mesh with a fine fraction of 600 and above is put on the bar. Starting from the corner, look through the wall. For all small grooves, bumps, stripes, grouting is carried out in a circular motion.

The second method is applicable for surfaces for painting, for gluing thin wallpapers that repeat the surface structure.

When can you start pasting

After sanding the surface, clean the walls from dust with a brush and dry cloth. This is done with a vacuum cleaner at first speed. After cleaning the wall, it must be covered with a primer. After drying, it will leave a thin film that protects the absorption of the glue into the surface.

When the primer is completely dry, start working with the wallpaper.

Having studied all the subtleties of choosing a putty, the surface will be perfectly flat and durable. Do not overlook small nuances from work, they play an important role in the formation of a solid wall under the wallpaper.

Walls with putty and wallpaper have an attractive appearance, long warranty period.

Useful video

So let's start from the beginning. During the renovation process, walls and ceilings go through three stages of finishing. The first stage is preparatory. It includes removing old wallpaper from the walls (or whitewashing from the ceiling), removing crumbling putty and plaster, and the like. The second stage is rough finishing. It, in principle, boils down to three things: reinforcement, leveling and putty. The third stage is finishing. These are: wallpapering, painting, or wall covering.

A very common mistake is to assume that all repairs are reduced to the third stage, and the first two can be neglected. I'll try to explain why they are needed. With the preparatory stage, everything is more or less obvious: if you paint over the whitewash, the paint will fall off along with the whitewash; if you stick it on the old wallpaper, the old wallpaper will swell under the new one, and everything is gone. With reinforcement, it is also clear: if you want there to be no cracks, you need to reinforce it.

The benefits of leveling and plastering walls are not so obvious at first glance. What are they for? Let's start with the putty. Sometimes you have to see expensive good wallpaper pasted on the walls; and under them, as if garbage was poured - everything is in pimples, or under them the wall breaks. This, of course, is not fatal, but the type of repair deteriorates. This happens because the wallpaper is glued to the walls that are not plastered. But even this is not the worst thing. Wallpaper is a very moody material. The wallpaper fits well on a uniform surface. If the surface is not uniform, and you are trying to glue the wallpaper back to back - do not be surprised if (when the wallpaper is dry) the seams come apart.

So, the putty of the walls is needed, firstly, in order to make the walls smooth. Wallpaper will fall on smooth walls better than on bumpy ones (after all, under each bump there is an air bubble). Also, the putty smooths out all sorts of plaster influxes, fills in potholes, and removes small defects in the surface of the walls. Finally, the putty creates a uniform wall surface, on which the wallpaper will then lay well. Proceeding from all this, good craftsmen, who value their reputation, will not even begin to glue wallpaper on non-plastered walls - it simply cannot be given a guarantee that the wallpaper will fit well.

If with putty it can be said unequivocally that this should be done, then with alignment everything is somewhat more complicated. In principle, you can make repairs without leveling anything at all. Since putty is often confused with leveling, I will explain - putty simply makes the walls smooth, it does not make them even, it is not designed for this; so that the walls become even - they must be leveled with plaster before plastering. If the putty is needed for technological reasons, then the alignment is for aesthetic reasons.

If you look at standard apartments in ordinary houses, it is the wallpaper that occupies most of the surfaces of the walls and ceiling. This finishing material attracts with its simplicity, cost, as well as the speed of work. Today you can choose not only from a variety of colors, but also from quality.

Wallpaper is used on a variety of surfaces, for example, on brick and concrete walls, which must first be plastered to make a flat surface. Often they are glued to drywall walls, and the question often arises whether it is necessary to putty the walls before gluing the wallpaper, or you can neglect this stage of work. We will try to reveal the answer to it in this article.

Preparing surfaces

Concrete or brick wall

Before gluing the wallpaper on such a surface, you must use a putty. In this situation, two stages are implied - applying the starting layer, and then the finishing one. In this case, it is necessary to clean the surface of debris, remove peeling old plaster and dust it off using a primer.

The starter putty can be applied in a layer even with a thickness of 60 mm in one pass. It is coarse in structure and therefore allows you to quickly prepare the surface for finishing. Usually a beacon system is used, which makes it possible to level the surface qualitatively.

After that, the wall is given time to dry completely. If you do not wait, then in these places the wallpaper will wrinkle and bubble, as, as it dries, the material will begin to deform.

Advice: you can visually check whether the surface is dry or not - there are dark spots on it, which means that it is not yet time for further work.

The second stage is to cover the gypsum boards themselves with a thin layer of finishing putty with your own hands. Although there are such finishers who skip this stage in order to complete the work faster.

But let's see what this may threaten in the future. For example, after 10 years or earlier, you will want to change the interior of the apartment, for which the best and fastest way is to re-glue the wallpaper.

As a result, the old panels will “peel off” together with the cardboard surface of the plates, revealing a layer of gypsum. You cannot use such sheets in the future, they should be replaced. Thus, you have to spend money and time.

If you covered the surface of the gypsum plasterboard sheets with a preliminary finishing putty, such a misunderstanding would not have happened. Therefore, the answer is unequivocal - putty on the gypsum board is required without fail.

Now about the joints. They can be reinforced and not use additional materials for this. In the first case, use any starting and finishing putty, in the second - a special mixture for sealing the joints of GKL "Uniflot".

But even in this case, additional processing will not hurt.

1. Purchase fiberglass from a store or market, which is usually sold in rolls with a width of 1 m, the price of which is quite affordable.
2. Buy also PVA glue marked "construction".
3. Brush over the dry, sealed seams between the gypsum board.
4. Cut a 70 mm spool from the roll with a knife on drywall and glue it to the seam. Cover it from above with PVA glue again.

After the joints have dried, apply a deep penetration primer to the gypsum board and, after it dries, a layer of finishing putty. Only after that, the wallpaper on the gypsum board can be glued, without worrying that someday, you will have to re-do the costly repairs.

Conclusion

The use of putty on the surface, which will subsequently be pasted over with wallpaper, is mandatory. This is especially true for drywall sheets. It is not necessary to bring the surface to perfect smoothness, minor scratches will be reliably hidden by the wallpaper ().

In the video presented in this article, you will find additional information on this topic.