Warming the garage from the inside - make the house for your car warm! Do-it-yourself garage insulation Do-it-yourself insulation of a brick garage from the inside.

In winter, garages built without the use of additional insulation do not warm up sufficiently. In order to comfortably stay indoors and use it not only for parking a car, you should perform a comprehensive insulation of the garage. Depending on individual needs and technical parameters, you can choose the appropriate insulation option.

To maintain a high temperature inside the building, it is recommended to sheathe the garage on both sides. If desired or not possible, it is allowed to insulate the garage only inside or outside. The type of insulation that is suitable depends on the type of building, the materials used and the required temperature. Sheathing can be brick, concrete with various types of roofs, including frame, shed and others.

Inside

Internal insulation of the garage can be performed at any location of the building. To insulate the walls, it is necessary to first clean the wall and build an additional partition from drywall or asbestos fiber, in the frame of which a heat-insulating layer will be embedded.

Outside

External sheathing of the garage is carried out only on separately built structures. In arrays where the outer wall of the structure is internal to the adjacent garage, this method of insulation is not possible. The insulation process consists in sheathing the outer walls with a heat-insulating layer and protecting the porous surface.

What is insulated in the garage

Integrated insulation of the building involves the sheathing with thermal insulation of walls, floors, ceilings and gates. Depending on the type of garage and your own requirements, partial cladding is allowed.

Walls

The bulk of the heat in the building is lost due to thin walls. There are several ways to sheathe walls from the inside. The most accessible requires the following steps:

The walls are cleaned of old layers of plaster and paint. The uneven surface is treated with a cement-sand composition.
After drying, the walls are covered with soil or an antiseptic to prevent the development of dampness and mold.
Sheets of foam or other material are glued to the prepared surface.
A plaster mesh is applied over the heat-insulating layer.
The wall is covered with plaster and putty.

A more expensive method involves the construction of additional partitions along each wall. The space between the walls and partitions is laid with an insulating layer, which minimizes heat loss.

Floor

Thermal insulation of the floor in the garage building is carried out using expanded clay or foam. The function of the coating is performed by a cement-sand screed. For laying a layer of thermal insulation, the following steps are carried out:

A hole with a depth of about 30 cm is dug around the perimeter of the room. The base is leveled and several beacons are placed, after which the mounting horizon is determined using the building level.
The bottom is covered with roofing material or polyethylene. On each side, the material is folded 30 cm.
Expanded clay is poured in or foam is laid to full depth. The surface is leveled on the beacons, after which they are removed.
A reinforcement frame and a beacon profile are placed on top of the heat-insulating material.
A cement-sand screed is poured from a far corner. After pouring, the coating is leveled.

Gates

Even when tightly closed, a significant part of the heat escapes through the gate. If you completely sheathe the perimeter, but leave the gate, then the temperature in the room will remain almost unchanged.

To insulate the sashes, their inner part is covered with polyethylene, after which a frame of wooden beams treated with an antiseptic solution is screwed to the canvas.

A heat-insulating material of appropriate thickness is placed inside the frame and glued to the inside of the gate with glue. Docking seams are covered with mounting foam. From above, the heat-insulating layer is sheathed with clapboard or metal sheet.

Ceiling

According to the principle of installation, the insulation of the ceiling does not differ from the processing of the walls of the room. The material is fixed inside the frame, built of metal or wooden beams. For additional protection, the frame is covered with drywall sheets, clapboard or other finishing material.

Types of heaters

A wide variety of insulation materials are presented on the construction market, which differ in thickness, structure, flexibility, installation method and other characteristics. Before performing external or internal thermal insulation work, it is recommended to compare suitable insulation options and choose the best one.

When selecting material, it is necessary to provide for the required amount in order to completely sheathe all surfaces. An integrated approach will help you choose the material with the best insulating properties.

Mineral wool

For the interior lining of the building, mineral wool is ideal, which is a roll-type material with a foil coating that reflects heat. Mineral wool is easy to install and does not create a load on the ceilings of walls and roofs. Mineral wool fibers provide free air circulation through the layers of insulation, which prevents the development of mold.

Other advantages of mineral wool include: low thermal conductivity, soundproofing properties, low weight, ease of installation.
Styrofoam

Styrofoam is considered a universal insulation that is attached to any surface inside the garage. The material is not exposed to liquids, is resistant to changing temperatures, and does not rot or mold over time. When interacting with mounting foam or glue, the foam is not destroyed due to the absence of a chemical reaction. The disadvantages of the material are easy flammability and the threat of damage by rodents. To protect the foam, an additional protective finish is required.

Styrofoam

According to the installation method, expanded polystyrene has a number of similarities with polystyrene foam. Distinctive characteristics are reduced water absorption coefficient and increased density. Due to the large thickness, expanded polystyrene provides more powerful protection against frost, but is more expensive than other materials.

Penoizol

Penoizol is an analogue of foam and is used for application to walls in a liquid state. The material absorbs liquid well, but does not accumulate it in itself, evaporating into the air. Penoizol is considered a hygroscopic vapor-permeable insulation with a combustion class G-1. One of the competitive advantages of penoizol is the possibility of production directly at the work site with subsequent application to any surface.

glass wool

Compared to mineral wool, glass wool is cheaper, but it can only be used with protective gloves. Cotton wool fibers are tough and prickly, so neglecting safety precautions can lead to injury. If liquid drips onto the surface of the glass wool during installation, it will have to be thrown away, since it is not possible to dry it. After getting wet, the fibers lose their original characteristics and exude an unpleasant odor.

polyurethane foam

Modern material has rapidly become widespread due to increased resistance to external factors. Polyurethane foam does not lose its qualities when interacting with liquid and after drying forms a dense hydrophobic coating. Applying the material requires specialized equipment.

Difficulties of installation are justified by a tight connection with any surface and high-quality protection against heat loss. After installation, the polyurethane foam expands, all empty gaps and cracks are filled.

Warm plaster

Reformulated stucco consists of specialized fillers, including sawdust, styrofoam particles, and expanded vermiculite. The combination of fillers gives the plaster thermal insulation properties. To obtain the desired result when finishing the premises, it is necessary to apply a dense and heavy layer of plaster. To simplify, it is recommended to combine warm plaster with other types of insulation materials.

Thermal insulation paint

To protect against the cold and give the garage a decorative appearance, liquid materials made from acrylic polymers are used. Pigments of natural origin and synthetic rubber are added to the paint.

One coat of paint in terms of thermal insulation properties replaces a layer of mineral wool 50 mm thick. The paint adheres well to wood, metal and plastic surfaces. After application, the paint forms a vapor-permeable coating and provides air permeability, preventing waterlogging of the internal component of the structure.

Garage insulation is a way to ensure proper operating conditions for the building and car storage, especially in the autumn-winter period.

Proper insulation of a brick garage

Very often, car owners believe that the temperature inside the garage should be almost the same as in the house. But this is an erroneous opinion, since when driving from a frost into a warm garage room, the car will certainly be covered with condensate. Which in turn will destroy its anti-corrosion coating, which will lead to rust and subsequent destruction of the metal parts of the car.

During the construction of the garage walls, they are not laid out thick enough. Naturally, they cannot prevent the penetration of cold air into the room in winter. For this, the walls of the building are insulated. Consider in detail how to insulate a brick garage.

Important: the temperature inside the garage should be no more than 5-6 degrees, so that the difference between the temperature inside and outside is the smallest.

Warming methods

Plastering the walls of the garage for insulation

In order for the insulation of a brick garage to be correct, it is necessary to increase the inertia of the insulation and reduce thermal conductivity. If you follow this rule, then in the winter it will be warm enough in the garage, and cool in the summer. To achieve a greater effect, it is best to use the combined method, in which the insulation is used in conjunction with a heat insulator. At the same time, it is impossible to achieve the goal set only by insulating the walls, forgetting about the roof and gates. Warming should be complete and comprehensive.

Before choosing materials, you should decide on the method of carrying out insulation work, since the technology for performing finishing work depends on the latter. There are the following ways:

plastering technology;
double insulation;
internal insulation;
external.

Double wall insulation scheme

The first option is the cheapest. It involves the use of fiberglass mesh, on which a layer of plaster is applied. But additional laying of the thermal layer is required. It is usually made of siding, lining, plastic and other similar materials. But this method is performed for a long time and therefore is not used so often.

The double insulation method is very effective. It allows you to save heat, significantly reduces the cost of additional heating of the room in winter and almost completely eliminates the possibility of corrosion.

The latter methods are the most common. And only one is used. External insulation is the best of the methods, fully meets building standards.

The internal method of laying insulation is less effective, there is always a risk of freezing of the walls, the release of harmful fumes and destruction of the structure under the influence of condensate.

Currently, new thermal insulation technologies have appeared on the construction market. But they are still not widespread enough. These are reflective thermal insulation and thermal insulation dyes. Reflective thermal insulation is mainly used for metal garages, it is produced in roll form. If the garage is finished with plaster from the inside, heat-insulating dyes can be used as a heater. It will allow the layer of plaster to breathe.

Materials for insulation

Photo of insulation of the walls of the garage with foam

As materials for insulation can be used:

Styrofoam;
mineral wool;
glass wool.

Glass wool is a classic insulation and is quite common. But choosing it as a thermal insulation material, you must remember some rules:

its fibers are very tough, so you should only work with it with gloves;
it is necessary to isolate it from moisture, since when water enters the fibers crumple. Glass wool loses its basic insulating qualities and can no longer be used.
In addition, glass wool is flammable. To insulate the garage from the inside, it is better not to use it.

Photo of insulation of the garage wall with mineral wool

Mineral wool is a good and common option for insulation. It, like glass wool, is sensitive to moisture, it is imperative to apply a waterproofing layer. She can insulate garage walls both outside and inside. The only difference may be the degree of rigidity of the mat. For external insulation, they must be more rigid. The modern building materials market has a wide range of mineral wool. Experts recommend basalt for purchase, as it is the leader in quality and sales. But it is worth noting that it has a greater cost than glass wool.

Styrofoam is almost an ideal heat insulator for a brick garage. They can insulate the walls and ceiling in the garage from the inside. This material has a number of advantages:

light weight and ease of installation, allow you to do the work yourself;
good thermal insulation performance and moisture resistance;
long service life;
not subject to decay;
quite reasonable price.

However, the foam has a drawback - it does not let air and fuel through at all. But for the interior decoration of the garage, you can use PBS-S foam plastic, which is treated with antipyreine and is capable of self-extinguishing when ignited.

Outside garage insulation

Insulation of the garage wall from the outside with foam

Many experts consider external insulation the most suitable and effective method. The following arguments support this:

The risk of freezing of the walls is almost completely eliminated.
Resistant to the formation of condensate between the wall and the insulation.
There is no environment for the formation of mold and fungal compounds.
Preservation of indoor space.
No harmful fumes.

The most common material for external insulation is foam. For this method, it is necessary to prepare the surface of the walls well.

Important: Styrofoam and its derivatives must be stored without exposure to sunlight, as under their influence it collapses and loses its basic properties.

It is necessary to first clean the surface of chips, repair potholes, oil stains. In some cases, an adhesive solution can be used for alignment. Then allow time to dry and apply a layer of a special primer.

Now you should go directly to the insulation. A profile is attached below the starting row. Then the remaining rows are mounted and the top profile is installed. Glue is applied to sheets of foam (polystyrene foam). This is done with a notched trowel over the entire surface evenly, or pointwise, with a small amount of glue. Install the foxes, adjusting their position with a level.

It is better to lay the foam in a checkerboard pattern, carefully pressing against each other. Within three to four days, the glue is allowed to dry completely, and then the sheets are additionally fixed with dowels.

To maintain high thermal protection properties and eliminate the possibility of moisture ingress, an additional surface finish is required. You can use traditional plaster, or the now popular siding finish.

Important: a ventilation system must be laid in the garage to avoid the accumulation of harmful carbon monoxide and excessive moisture.

Warming the walls of the garage from the inside

Internal wall insulation is rarely used. But if this is the only possible option, then work must be carried out in a strictly defined sequence.

How to insulate a brick garage from the inside?

Initially, you should carefully clean the surface of the walls of the garage. Next, you should mount the frame, which will hold the insulation layer and at the same time serve as the basis for attaching finishing materials.

Any material can be used as a heater. But for fire safety purposes, it is best to use mineral wool. You can insulate the garage from the inside with foam, but working with it is quite complicated and requires additional help.

The frame is mounted in increments, depending on the geometric dimensions of the sheet (roll) of insulation. It is necessary that the step width be slightly (1-2 cm) smaller than the size of the heat insulator sheet, to ensure tightness when laying. Before laying insulation, waterproofing must be performed. This can be done with special insulating mixtures, or with a film coating.

In some cases, an additional layer of aluminum-based film insulation is laid over the insulation.

The last stage of internal insulation can be a wooden clapboard or plasterboard finish. On drywall, be sure to apply a layer of plaster on top of the fiberglass reinforced mesh. The lining is additionally treated with various antiseptic mixtures.

For insulation from the inside, you can use the method of constructing an imitation (false) partition. Then a layer of heat insulator is laid in its frame. But be prepared for the fact that this method will significantly reduce the area of \u200b\u200bthe room.
Video on the insulation of the walls of the garage:

Door insulation trim

When insulating the garage, you should pay special attention to the gate, as a lot of heat is lost through them. Unnecessary heat loss can be eliminated and insulate garage doors? To do this, it is better to make a door in one of the gate leaves.

Gates are usually insulated with foam. From the inside, a crate is mounted, then sheets of expanded polystyrene (polystyrene) are fixed in it. Gaps in the places where the gates are closed are treated with a special adhesive tape. You can put seals in places where air enters. Next, perform waterproofing. For the final cladding of the gate, you need to mount the frame. Experts recommend using OSB or a thin board as a finishing material.

Important: the door leaf is usually metal, so before warming it is necessary to treat them well with anti-corrosion mixtures. You can use ordinary drying oil for this, just warm it up a little.

It is not worth using moisture-resistant materials such as GKL for finishing garage doors.
Garage door insulation video:

Garage roof insulation

We insulate the roof of the garage photo

To complete the insulation process, you should also think about the roof. Is it worth it to spend effort and money on wall insulation if warm air rising up to the ceiling will exit through the structural elements of the roof.

If the roof is wooden, then the foam sheets are simply laid on top, fastened well, a layer of waterproofing is laid and covered with roofing materials.

If the garage floor is concrete, then it is better to insulate the ceiling in the garage from the inside. With the help of metal corners, a frame is constructed. It is fixed with self-tapping screws. Insulation sheets are laid along the frame (it is better to use polystyrene foam and its analogues). You can fix them with glue or tape. Then they are pressed tightly with a sheathing and fastened again. If necessary, an additional layer of aluminum-based waterproofing material can be laid and finally lined with clapboard. But this option makes sense to do if mineral or glass wool is chosen as a heat-insulating material. For foam, no additional waterproofing is required.
Video on the insulation of the ceiling in the garage:

Additional insulation measures

The owners of garages rarely insulate the floor in it, especially if it has an inspection hole. Of course, when the garage is part of the house and there is a basement under it, then there is no need for such work. But if the floor freezes through, then this problem must also be solved.

Attempts to heat the garage without carrying out comprehensive insulation work lead to unnecessary costs for firewood, coal, electricity, etc. In addition, it does not get warmer in the room on winter days. If the garage is not heated at all, the temperature inside is practically the same as outside. It is worth remembering that with each start at -20 ° C, the engine wears out much faster. To make the garage more comfortable, you need to take care of proper thermal insulation.

How to insulate a garage without spending a lot of money? To do this, you should get acquainted with popular materials and insulation technologies. Comprehensive protection of the premises from the cold involves the processing of the ceiling, walls and floor.

Insulation options

To decide on the technology of how to insulate a garage from the inside, you will need to evaluate all the positive and negative aspects of various materials. Usually car owners are guided by their budget. It is also necessary to carry out a heat engineering calculation of the garage insulation, which takes into account the average temperature indicators of the region. The thickness of the garage walls and their ability to conduct temperature are also taken into account.

For example, aerated concrete walls have many air pores, which in themselves effectively prevent heat loss. Metal frame garages are less practical in this regard.

There are several options for insulating a garage:

internal;
external;
combined.

The latter option is more expensive. The external insulation of the garage is more suitable for structures that are prone to moisture accumulation. These include timber frame structures and porous concrete structures. Brick garages are best protected from the outside. However, the device of a heat-insulating layer from the inside is much cheaper. The main thing is to take into account the safety of the materials used when insulating the garage.

Roof insulation

Separately, it is worth figuring out how to properly insulate the roof of the garage. Through it there are considerable heat losses. The method of insulation depends on the configuration of the garage roof:

Flat with a slight slope. For such a roof, laying insulation from above will be required. Styrofoam boards are best suited for this. From above they are covered with waterproofing.
Pitched. It is insulated with mineral wool or the same foam. In the first case, fitting the heat-insulating material in size is not required.
If the building has a cold attic, we insulate the garage floor with glass wool. Such thermal insulation is inexpensive and reliable. It is important that the roofing material does a good job of protecting the garage attic from getting wet. Efficient ventilation must also be provided.

For thermal insulation of the ceiling from the inside of the garage, you can also use mineral wool and polymer insulation boards. Thanks to this solution, cold bridges and gaps are excluded. From the side of the room, the insulation should be protected by a vapor barrier film.

How to insulate the garage ceiling from the inside cheaply and quickly? Often, car owners follow simple schemes:

Creating a false ceiling and filling the resulting space with heat-insulating material.
Attaching plates or pieces of heat-insulating material directly to the ceiling of the garage in a way specially designed for this.

When using foam, it should be fixed to the ceiling with liquid nails. Next, you need to close the material with a vapor barrier, install guides and nail plywood. Any lightweight material can be used instead.

If you want to insulate the ceiling from concrete floor slabs, you will need to mount the skeleton of the guides on metal corners. Adhesives will not help in this case. The corners are attached to screws placed in plastic dowels. It is quite difficult to insulate a garage from the inside with your own hands, however, if you follow the technology, mistakes can be avoided.

Types of materials

When choosing materials for garage walls, you should get acquainted with the main types of insulation. According to their properties and characteristics, they are quite diverse. Most heaters are made from waste paper, glass, metal. Under certain conditions, some of them become unsafe.

Attention! Sellers rarely talk about it, but the more hidden tricks the insulation is fraught with, the cheaper it is.

Among the popular heaters are glass wool, mineral wool, polystyrene foam and cellulose insulation. To figure out how to insulate an iron garage, you should get acquainted with the features of each material.

glass wool

The material is produced in the form of rolls or plates. It retains heat quite effectively, but is potentially harmful to health. Also, glass wool is resilient and resistant to aggressive chemicals.

During any manipulations with glass wool, microscopic dust particles begin to rise into the air - needles that can irritate the skin, mucous membranes of the eyes and lungs. For this reason, it is necessary to work with gloves, a mask and glasses.

Glass wool is indispensable in rooms where a heating system in the form of a boiler or stove is installed. In this case, the insulation will reliably protect the walls from fire.

Mineral wool

It is made from molten stone, waste from the metallurgical industry. With its properties, it resembles glass wool, but its heat resistance is much higher. The material is sold in the form of plates and mats. If you want to figure out how to insulate an iron garage from the inside, you should pay attention to mineral wool.

When mineral wool is heated to 300 degrees, it begins to exude hazardous substances. As a material for garage insulation, mineral wool is safe and reliable.

Cellulose insulation

They are quite environmentally friendly, have high rates of thermal insulation. The disadvantages include a high ignition rate, water permeability, susceptibility to the formation of fungi on the surface.

Styrofoam

The material does an excellent job of insulating the walls of the garage. It is not affected by moisture, is not afraid of mold. Also, expanded polystyrene perfectly retains its properties when exposed to chemicals. One of the disadvantages of the material is its fire hazard. Only some types of polystyrene foam do not burn after being treated with fire retardants.

According to manufacturers, a 10-centimeter layer of thermal insulation made of expanded polystyrene is equal in terms of thermal protection to a 2-meter brick wall.

Wall insulation

To insulate the garage from the inside, you will need to process the walls and gates. Their total area is about 50% of the total garage area. The thermal insulation of the walls is performed in the same way as the ceiling, starting with waterproofing. At a distance of 60 cm from the floor, it is necessary to install a frame beam for fixing the insulation. However, you can use a simpler option - to put thermal insulation plates on a liquid nail.

Lay insulation between the beams. At the next stage, a vapor barrier film is attached on top of it, and then the wall is sheathed with clapboard or other material.

Important! Before starting work on the lining, all inconsistencies and cracks should be sealed with sealant. Ventilation holes are an exception.

Floor insulation

Floors in garages are most often made of concrete. Thermal insulation must be carried out before pouring the mixture. The work is carried out in the following order:

the earth is carefully tamped;
a sand cushion is poured, and then it is also rammed;
pour concrete mixture (10 cm);
fill the screed with fine sand or expanded clay, spill it with water;
after drying the previous layer, pour the finishing screed.

You can use such a coating only a month after completion. It is after such a period of time that the floor will gain the necessary strength.

Floor with cellar

When it comes to the presence of a cellar, insulation must be approached more carefully. Much depends on the design of the floor. If it is made of wood, the thermal insulation scheme is performed as follows:

Between the lags, a heater is placed that does not allow moisture to pass through (polystyrene).
The material is covered with a diffusion membrane with one-sided permeability - so that the beam "breathes". A crate is nailed on top - to create a ventilation gap.
A draft floor is made from edged boards.

Thanks to this solution, the cold coming from the basement is cut off. Excess moisture will go into the garage. Properly arranged ventilation helps to get rid of moisture. Due to this, dampness does not accumulate on wooden and metal surfaces. As a result, mold and corrosion do not form.

How to insulate a basement in a garage? To do this, you need ordinary polystyrene foam. The material has good performance properties:

mold resistance;
long service life;
excellent water resistance.

The installation of insulation is carried out by gluing polystyrene foam boards, which are adjusted in size, to brick walls. Figuring out how to insulate a cellar in a garage is quite simple. The choice of technology depends on the material of the insulation.

To better protect the base of the garage from the cold, you can make a warm blind area from the outside. It will allow you to shift the soil freezing line, and under the garage, even in winter, a positive temperature will remain. After insulating the floor, it is worth moving on to protecting the gate.

Important! We insulate the garage from the inside with our own hands, after taking care of ventilation.

Gates

How to insulate the gate? They represent one of the most vulnerable areas. They should be insulated in the same way as walls. All joints between gates and walls must have additional thermal insulation. This is due to the fact that only through the entrance and entrance gates the most heat leaves the garage.

The gaps can be closed with a rubber band, or mounting foam, which, after cutting, is pasted over with rubber. Insulation of the garage is an important procedure that will require a lot of cost and effort from the car owner.

Thus, the insulation of the garage can be carried out quickly and at no extra cost. The main thing is to choose the right material and follow the instructions. Only with complex insulation is it possible to protect the car from frost. Also, do not forget about the heating and ventilation system.

Any motorist knows that garage insulation is not a whim, but a real necessity. If you value your iron horse, then you definitely cannot do without such a procedure. But our world is so arranged that there is not always enough money for expensive heaters, not to mention hiring professionals. This article is written for those ordinary motorists who, for a number of reasons, are forced to install inexpensive garage insulation from the inside with their own hands, and in it I will talk about 3 available insulation options and those materials that are suitable for this.

Owners choose insulation from the inside for various reasons. For example, in a garage cooperative, people simply have no other choice, the boxes are lined up in a united front, and there are not always good neighbors with warm garages on the sides.

It is practically impossible to equip metal structures from the outside. And finally, the most banal reason, internal insulation is simply cheaper. In addition, it is simply physically impossible to insulate the roof and floor from the outside.

What materials to choose from

Naturally, before you pick up a tool and get to work, you still need to decide how to insulate the house for your car. After all, each material has its own subtleties of installation, and most importantly, the cost of all these materials is different.

It is no secret that each person has his own concept of inexpensive, for one hundred thousand is not money, but for another a dozen for happiness. Therefore, I will briefly go through the entire range, and you already decide.

A short list of thermal insulation materials used for garage insulation
Thermal insulation material	General characteristics
Dense mineral wool boards	A relatively inexpensive material with enviable thermal conductivity and excellent vapor permeability. For garages, cotton slabs are suitable for their absolute fire safety. Although cotton slabs are capable of gaining moisture, this indicator is not so high for them.
Glass wool and other types of mineral-based soft mats	In terms of cost, soft mats are one of the most affordable heaters. But that's where all its pluses end. Although on the network you will find a lot of photo and video material, where the merits of such mats are described in colors. I will tell you briefly, such insulation cannot be installed in a garage. These mats quickly gain moisture and after that they are no longer restored, in 2-3 years they will look like an old flannelette blanket, so think about whether you need such savings.
Styrofoam	I am deeply convinced that among inexpensive heaters, foam boards are the best option, especially for a garage. The price for it is more than affordable, it does not pass or absorb water. Based on personal experience, I can assure you that mounting foam plastic with your own hands is the easiest. Plus, this material is suitable for both block and metal structures.
Extruded polystyrene foam or "Penoplex"	Extruded polystyrene foam is made from the same raw material as the foam. But these plates are much stronger, more stable and durable. In almost all characteristics, extruded polystyrene foam and Penoplex, as one of the representatives of this line, are many times ahead of the old foam plastic. Only one thing is bad, such material will cost at least 2 times more expensive than polystyrene.
Soft roll insulation with foil coating	As a rule, polyethylene foam, better known as penofol, is taken as the basis here. The foil can be applied to one or both sides of such a "quilt". On average, the thickness of the canvas ranges from 3 - 4 to 20 mm. The material is good, but I'll tell you honestly, as an independent insulation, in our climate it is not very suitable, only as an addition.
Warm plaster	There are several varieties of warm plaster, but the principle of arrangement is the same everywhere. Some loose porous material, for example, expanded clay sand, perlite or foam balls, is kneaded in the solution as the main filler and the walls are plastered with this solution. Such insulation is not expensive, but one cannot do without the skills of a plasterer, so not everyone is able to do it with their own hands.
Expanded clay	Expanded clay is porous clay balls obtained by firing special types of clay. The price of such a heater is small, but in the garage it can only be used to warm the floor.
Sawdust	This insulating material can be safely called practically free. For garage work, two options for using sawdust are suitable. These are sawdust-based cement boards and the so-called sawdust concrete. I will dwell on the production technology and installation in more detail later.
Penoizol	If you understand the chemical composition, then penoizol is actually a liquid foam. Since the material is liquid, it is easier to work with it, but such insulation will cost several times more than styrofoam.
polyurethane foam	I deliberately left polyurethane foam for "dessert". The fact is that in our case it is less suitable than the others. Not only is this liquid insulation itself expensive, but you still have to hire specialists to apply it. It is unrealistic to manage here on your own, you need expensive special equipment.

If we analyze all the above options for compliance with price / quality / ease of arrangement, then foam plastic is in the lead, followed by mineral wool slabs and materials made from sawdust close this honorary trio.

As if out of competition, we have expanded clay, among inexpensive heaters it is best suited for arranging the floor.

We decided on the top three leaders, and since our polystyrene turned out to be almost a universal insulation, then I will start the story of how to insulate a garage with my own hands using the foam plastic as an example.

Option number 1: polystyrene as a universal material for garage insulation

Warming the garage from the inside with your own hands can be conditionally divided into 4 stages. You will need to insulate the floor, walls, roof and garage doors, while the order of actions does not matter much.

Styrofoam insulation for garage walls

Since the walls of the garage have the largest quadrature, it means that they need to pay more attention.

There is a small nuance here, the arrangement of block and metal structures is different, and so that there is no mess in my head, I will talk about each technique separately and we will start with metal garages.

Styrofoam boards are classified by density. Not only strength, but also price directly depends on it. So, the cheapest foam plastic has a density of 15kg / m³, but it is not suitable for insulation. Remember, you need PSB-S25, it has a density of 25kg / m³. You can take and denser, but it will cost more.

When insulating the walls of garages welded from sheet metal, it is easiest to put foam plates on glue. As an adhesive, you can use 2 options, the foam is equally well taken on "Liquid Nails" and on mounting foam;
Personally, I prefer to work with mounting foam. Firstly, it is applied faster, and secondly, in any case, buy foam, since gaps are blown out with it. And in order not to spend money on glue and foam, I glue the foam plastic with mounting foam;
Before gluing, smooth sheet metal must be prepared. To do this, the iron is first cleaned. Ideally, you need to strip to bare, shiny metal, but if the old one is holding up well, then you should not be too zealous. You can clean metal with large emery, a manual brush for metal, as well as using a nozzle with a cord brush on an electric drill or grinder. It’s easier for me to work with a nozzle, it’s inexpensive and it takes no more than half an hour for each wall;

When the walls are cleaned, you will need to dust them off and degrease the metal. You can degrease with any alcohol-containing liquid, as well as kerosene or acetone;
By the way, if you are dealing with a garage assembled from a profiled sheet, then you don’t need to clean anything there. The profiled sheet can be immediately degreased and pasted over with foam;

Next, apply an arbitrary pattern of glue or foam to one of the sides of the foam and glue the plate to the wall. You can start from any corner you like, I usually start to the left of the gate and go clockwise;
The slabs are glued like brickwork, with a shift between the rows. The process of gluing with liquid nails or mounting foam has its own nuances. So liquid nails need to be smeared on a sheet, then attach the foam to the metal, immediately tear off and set aside for about 5 - 7 minutes. Only after that the sheet can be glued and it will take well, otherwise it will “float”;

Mounting foam has a different technique. As you know, foam after application to any surface begins to expand. Therefore, when you stick foam plastic on it, the sheet itself will need to be pressed against the wall every 10 to 15 minutes, the expansion process lasts about an hour;
When the walls are pasted over, the gaps between the sheets or any other gaps are blown out with mounting foam, and after it dries, the excess is cut off;
In principle, this could be the end. But I recommend additionally pasting the walls with foil foam or some other similar blanket;

The fact is that in our garages there is an acute issue of a shortage of usable space. And where foam plastic with a thickness of 100 mm is required, plates of 50 mm can be glued and covered with foil foam. Accordingly, where the project is supposed to mount a 50 mm foam, you can get by with thirty millimeters. Plus, walls covered with soft foil look much more elegant than bare foam sheets, from the slots of which polyurethane foam peeks out.

The walls of block garages can also be pasted over with foam, but this technology is more used for insulation from the outside, since the insulation is additionally plastered. And from the inside in block structures, the foam is mounted under the crate.

Walls pasted over with foam, and even covered with foil foam, are inexpensive and very effective. But every motorist knows that a decent garage should have a lot of shelves, hooks and other attachments. And in order, figuratively speaking, to drive a nail into the wall, it must be strong and one cannot do without the above-mentioned crate.

The inner crate is best made from bars. The thickness of the bar is selected according to the thickness of the insulation. Block walls are not metal, they already have a certain insulating ability, therefore, almost everywhere up to the northern regions, foam plastic 50 mm thick is used here. Under the crate for foam, I always take a bar of 50x50 mm;
The direction of laying the crate depends on the type of finishing cladding. If this is some kind of rack finish, for example, lining or plastic panels, then the crate is installed perpendicular to the rails. For sheet sheathing, the direction of installation of the wooden crate does not really matter, but most often the bars are fastened vertically under the sheet;
The step of fixing the bars on the wall is usually done clearly along the width of the foam sheets. But it is desirable that this step does not exceed 70 cm;

The bars are mounted on self-tapping screws with plastic dowels "Quick installation" or on an anchor, it already depends on the material from which the walls of your garage are made;
After the crate is fixed to the wall, foam sheets are inserted between the bars. If they fit tightly, then gluing them is not necessary. That, in principle, is the whole technology, then the finishing trim is attached to the crate. In my opinion, clapboard, plywood or OSB is best suited for a garage.

Styrofoam insulation for garage ceiling

Styrofoam is best suited for insulation from the inside of ceilings on metal roofs, as well as in block structures, where reinforced concrete floor slabs act as a roof.

In both cases, the technology will be approximately the same. I already described how to prepare metal for mounting foam plastic in the previous chapter. As for reinforced concrete floor slabs, here the preparation is a little different.

To begin with, you will need to seal the seams between the floor slabs, as well as various kinds of defects and chips, if any. Usually, it is recommended to use a cement-based putty for this.

But I prefer to just blow out all the major ceiling defects with mounting foam. Naturally, the excess foam after solidification will need to be carefully cut off. After that, reinforced concrete floor slabs should be covered with deep penetration soil. There are many such compositions now, but in most cases concrete contact is used.

Further, the ceiling is insulated in much the same way as we insulated the walls of the garage. That is, the foam is glued to the metal ceiling with Liquid Nails glue or mounting foam. But if it was more convenient to work with foam on the walls, then Liquid Nails is more suitable here.

Styrofoam is glued to reinforced concrete floor slabs as well as to metal sheets. Although if you plan to sheathe the ceiling with some kind of finishing material in the future, then you will need to attach a wooden crate to the ceiling, lay foam between the guides and then sew on the cladding you have chosen.

Since we are talking about how to insulate a garage inexpensively, the best option would be to paste over the ceiling with foam and glue foil foam on the foam. Indeed, on the ceiling you do not need to hang shelves or hammer nails into it, and foil penofol, firstly, looks good, and secondly, it is an additional layer of insulation, plus it creates the effect of a thermos and reflects heat rays inward.

Styrofoam for floor insulation

Styrofoam as a floor insulation is only suitable if you plan to lay wooden floors. Styrofoam cannot be laid in the screed, because it will not withstand such a weight and simply doubt.

Of all the currently existing slab insulation, only extruded polystyrene foam is suitable for laying in a reinforced concrete screed. Roads are insulated with this material, and even runways at modern airfields, so it will certainly withstand your car.

In order for the insulated wooden floors to stand firmly and not sink on the ground, you will have to pour a reinforced concrete screed. Naturally, if reinforced concrete floor slabs are laid on the floor, then no screed is needed anymore.

To equip a reinforced concrete screed, you will need to remove about 25 - 30 cm of soil inside the garage. The bottom of the pit should be well compacted and covered with geotextiles or technical polyethylene.

Then it is filled up, leveled along the horizon and a sand and gravel cushion 50 - 100 mm thick is well rammed. According to the technology, another layer of technical polyethylene must be laid on the sand and gravel cushion.

But, based on experience, in this case, you can deviate from this rule and immediately knit a reinforcing cage on the pillow. For reinforcement, a reinforcing bar with a diameter of about 10 mm (± 2 mm) is used. The frame is knitted in 2 layers with a gap of about 30 - 50 mm between the layers.

To keep the frame in this position until the concrete is poured, I lay out pieces of broken brick in a checkerboard pattern on a sand and gravel pillow and knit the first layer of mesh on it.

The gap between the first and second layer of the reinforcing cage, I again provide by laying out broken bricks on pieces. Special accuracy in observing the gaps is not required here, the main thing is that the grid completely “drowns” in the concrete layer and at the same time there are gaps between the first and second layers, as well as between the pillow and the lower grate.

The thickness of such a concrete slab must be at least 100 mm. Concrete hardens within 28 days. After that, a continuous layer of waterproofing is laid on the concrete screed. The cheapest way to use technical polyethylene.

To insulate wooden floors, foam plastic 50 mm thick will be enough. This means that we use a wooden block 50x50 mm as a load-bearing lag. Logs on the floor are mounted in increments of 30 - 40 cm and no more.

Styrofoam is laid as tightly as possible between the lags, and all gaps are blown out with mounting foam. In the garage, a tongue-and-groove or simply planed board with a thickness of at least 40 mm is laid on the floor.

All wood used for arranging any structures in the garage must be treated with protective impregnations. There are a lot of various universal impregnations on the market now, so there will be no problems with the choice.

From above, the wooden floor in the garage can simply be painted. But in such cases, I recommend laying linoleum. You should not take expensive linoleum based on it, our task is to protect the top layer of wood from abrasion, moisture and mechanical damage.

Styrofoam insulation for garage doors

In the economy version, foam plastic is perhaps the only material that can be used to insulate garage doors with high quality. We will talk about the insulation of standard metal double-leaf garage doors, which are currently used by at least 70 - 80% of motorists in our great country.

Such gates are often welded from a metal sheet with a thickness of 3 to 5 mm, which is based on a frame made of a corner or a profiled pipe. As a rule, a corner is taken with a wing of 45 mm, and a profiled pipe is used with a square or rectangular section of at least 40 mm.

Of course, foam boards, by analogy with the insulation of a metal ceiling and walls, can simply be glued from the inside of the gate. But the gate is not a ceiling, they are constantly in motion, plus there is a high probability of mechanical damage to the insulation.

Therefore, it is better to fix a wooden crate from a 50x50 mm bar on the gate, lay foam plastic in the crate, blow out the gaps with mounting foam and sew everything up, for example, with OSB sheets.

In this case, the wooden crate is not attached to the main surface of the garage door, but to the supporting metal frame. In a corner or in a profiled pipe, a series of holes are drilled on the side and a wooden bar is fastened through them with wood screws.

As an additional thermal screen, a curtain suspended at the top of the garage door opening is sometimes used. On the net, I often met advice to make such a curtain with my own hands from cut strips of technical polyethylene. People just saw something similar at car washes and decided that such a transparent curtain could be made from polyethylene.

So, if you love your car, then I do not advise you to do this. At car washes, such curtains are made of soft transparent plastic and they are quite expensive.

Polyethylene is not suitable for this. One of my neighbors made himself such a polyethylene curtain and he was happy with it for no more than a month. Strange as it may sound, it turns out that polyethylene strips leave micro-scratches on car paint. A month later, the car had to be polished again, and the plastic curtain went to the trash.

If you really want an inexpensive curtain, then install a metal pipe on top or pull a string and hang sliding curtains from an ordinary tarpaulin on it. Naturally, they will have to be pushed apart and pushed in with their own hands, but the car will be intact and it will be warmer in the garage.

Option number 2: insulate the garage with basalt wool

As you probably already understood, polystyrene is perhaps the best option for inexpensive garage insulation from the inside. But of course he's not perfect. Styrofoam has 2 serious drawbacks: firstly, it burns, and secondly, mice start up in it.

Therefore, many owners prefer to use dense mineral wool slabs for insulation. Basalt wool is now considered the best representative of this family. To prevent moisture changes from causing shrinkage, boards must be taken with a density of at least 180 kg / m³.

I will say right away that such plates will cost more than foam. Plus, not every garage can be insulated with cotton wool. So it is categorically not recommended to insulate metal structures with cotton wool.

The fact is that the thermal conductivity of the metal is quite high and if you cover your metal garage with cotton slabs from the inside, then the so-called dew point will be inside the cotton slabs, which means that the condensate will settle there and the waterproofing will be useless here.

Every novice builder knows that cotton wool in any form is afraid of moisture, respectively, such insulation will become unusable very quickly.

As for block structures, it is possible to insulate them with wool from the inside, and the technology of such insulation is not much different from the installation of foam plastic described above. But there are still some differences.

So for gluing cotton slabs to a concrete ceiling or wall, construction glue is used, about the same as for laying tiles. Personally, in such cases, I use dry building mixes from the Ceresit brand;
Foil penofol will no longer stick to cotton slabs. To fix such a blanket through the insulation, blind holes about 50 mm deep are drilled in the base and plastic dowel umbrellas are driven into them. Dowels are driven in a checkerboard pattern with an interval of 30 - 40 cm;

Although wool is an excellent material for insulating gable roofs on wooden rafters, here it is far ahead of all heaters, including foam;
So if the roof is covered with ordinary slate, then a crate is stuffed on top of the wooden rafters and slate is laid on it. To insulate such a roof, from the inside, a vapor barrier membrane is attached to the crate and rafters with a stapler. Further, cotton slabs are tightly inserted between the rafters, after which the slabs are covered with another layer of vapor barrier membrane;
In principle, you can stop there, but I always recommend additionally lining the inner vapor barrier layer with a lattice of thin wooden planks, for example, 20x30 mm. If you feel sorry for the money for planed planks, then you can use a simple slab, but it will look very mediocre. In addition, the crate of planed wooden planks can be easily sheathed with the same plastic or any other facing material;

The vapor barrier membrane allows steam to pass through only in one direction and this must be taken into account when installing it, the vapor-permeable side is marked on the membrane itself. Remember, steam must come out of the garage to the street.

If you decide to lay the cotton slabs in the crate on the walls or between the logs of the wooden floor, then the wooden bars should be 20-30 mm higher than the cotton slabs. Here the technology is similar to the insulation of a gable roof.

First, a vapor barrier membrane is attached, then the plates are inserted and all this is covered with another layer of vapor barrier. Only between the second layer of vapor barrier and any finishing cladding should there be a ventilation gap, for this the supporting crate is made 20-30 mm higher than the insulation.

Option number 3: insulation of the garage with sawdust

Sawdust is practically a free material and our ancestors used it to insulate houses from time immemorial. But in the case of a garage, there are a number of limitations. So in metal garages, only the floor can be insulated with sawdust. In block buildings, sawdust slabs can be mounted almost everywhere, but only under the crate.

For installation in the crate, you will need to make sawdust slabs with your own hands. Sawdust is taken clean, without inclusions of bark or other debris. Fresh sawdust can not be taken, they must be aged for at least a year in a dry room.

To form the plates, you will have to knock down several wooden molds. Usually slabs are made with a thickness of 100 - 150 mm. The solution is mixed in a proportion of 10 parts of sawdust, 1 part of M500 cement and one part of slaked lime. All this is mixed in a concrete mixer and only after that water is gradually added.

To determine readiness, you need to squeeze the solution in your hand. The solution should stick together, but water should not flow out of it. To protect against mice, 2-3% boric acid is added to the solution, and for the elasticity of the blocks, 1-2% gelatin is dissolved in water.

The solution must be poured into molds, lightly tamped and wait until it dries. After that, such briquettes are laid in the crate. Only here a rather expensive vapor barrier membrane can be replaced with cheap glassine.

As you can see, there is much more trouble with sawdust than with foam plastic or mineral wool. Therefore, when it comes to sawdust, I recommend only insulating the floor with them. To do this, you will need to mix sawdust concrete.

Below in the table I wrote out the composition of such sawdust concrete.

I have already described the technology for arranging a concrete reinforced screed above. Here it is the same, with the only difference that the thickness of such a reinforced screed is made at least 150 - 200 mm.

A few words about the insulation of the floor in the garage with expanded clay

Expanded clay is a strong, durable, and most importantly inexpensive insulation.

The technology of floor insulation in the garage with expanded clay is somewhat reminiscent of the arrangement of a conventional concrete screed, only the thickness of the layers will be slightly different.

The pit is dug here with a depth of about 450 mm. After that, the base is rammed and covered to the very top with an overlap on the walls with a continuous layer of waterproofing. Technical polyethylene is the cheapest;
A sand and gravel cushion with a thickness of about 50 mm is filled up and rammed onto the waterproofing;
Now, expanded clay of medium and fine fractions is mixed in equal proportions, after which the insulation is filled up with a thickness of 300 mm;
The top layer is reinforced concrete screed 100 mm thick. I have already talked about this technology above.

Output

As you can see, inexpensive insulation of the garage from the inside with your own hands is possible, the main thing here is not to get hung up on one thing, but to be creative in this process. The photo and video in this article shows the nuances of self-insulating a garage. If after studying the material there are questions, welcome to the comments, we will talk.

15.06.2018

The garage protects the car from direct exposure to rain and snow. But this is not the only thing that affects the state of its mechanisms. Temperature fluctuations lead to condensation. And he, in turn, becomes the cause of rust, fungi and mold, accumulates in body cavities, damages the engine. Therefore, the task of the car owner is to reduce his education to a minimum.

Warm or insulate?

When the temperature in the garage is below zero, the condensate freezes. And when the engine warms up, it starts to melt. Freeze-thaw cycles do not benefit either the metal or the internal mechanisms.

But heating the room is not the best solution. Leaving a warm garage in the cold, we create a situation of a sharp temperature drop. And when returning back to the heated space, we get the formation of condensate even on those parts where moisture does not get when the car is moving.

Experts say that the best conditions for winter storage of cars are created when the thermometer shows + 5 ° С. The danger of corrosion under such conditions is minimal, and the temperature difference between the street and the room does not have such a detrimental effect on the car.

Accordingly, choosing between connecting to the heating system and insulating the garage with your own hands, it is wiser to stop at the second option. Moreover, it will help save on monthly energy bills.

Basic requirements for garage insulation

When insulating a place to store a car, it is worth remembering a number of key points.

You can not close up the ventilation holes - any heat-insulated building also needs ventilation, as well as a heated one.
Thermal protection should affect not only walls, but also garage doors, floors, roofs.
If there is a desire to do everything according to the rules, it would be useful to study the sixth section of SNiP 2.07.01–89. It regulates the requirements for the premises where vehicles are stored. Of course, when it comes to a personal garage, it is not necessary to comply with them. However, standards can help address a number of issues.
For door insulation, in most cases, internal thermal protection is mounted.

How to insulate: inside or outside

The most desirable type of insulation is external. It protects the walls from freezing and allows them to accumulate heat.

Nevertheless, sometimes they resort to warming the garage from the inside. For example, when there is no indent between the garage boxes or their walls are adjacent.

Overview of the materials market: choosing the best

The first thing to consider when choosing a heat insulator is the type of insulation you have chosen. For example, moisture-permeable materials, when wet, change their properties. Therefore, they are not a good option for external thermal protection. And for internal thermal insulation, heaters that emit harmful substances in the summer heat or during household heating are not suitable.

The modern market offers several types of garage insulation materials. Consider the main properties and characteristics of the most popular of them.

Mineral wool

Produced in the form of plates and rolls. It retains heat well and has soundproofing properties. But at the same time it easily absorbs moisture - high humidity is the main enemy of wadded heaters. And when wet, it completely loses its ability to isolate heat. Therefore, its use requires high-quality hydro- and vapor barrier. It is almost impossible to dry this insulation, it becomes brittle and easily damaged. And when wet during installation, glass wool clumps and becomes unsuitable for further use (cavities appear inside it).

Considering that the outer insulation cake can be damaged or depressurized, it is risky to use this material. In general, for vertical mounting, mineral wool is not the best choice. It has considerable weight and consists of fibers. Under their own weight, over the years, they can sag, and voids will form between them - the so-called cold bridges.

This heat insulator has two advantages: low price and the same low thermal conductivity. But that's all. Then only the disadvantages begin. Once in the lungs, glass particles are no longer excreted from the body. On the skin, they leave itching and irritation. During their installation, a protective suit, a respirator and a mask are required, and after completion of work, a thorough cleaning of the premises. Then a day or two will have to wait until the glass dust settles, not visible to the eye.

If during operation there was at least partial damage to the protective layer of films or foil material, you will again need to rent overalls and, after the repair is completed, resort to cleaning.

And finally, the material shrinks and does not differ in durability. Therefore, it does not matter which type of insulation you prefer: internal or external, it is better not to dwell on this option.

Styrofoam

This material is very popular due to its low cost and ease of installation. It retains heat well and lasts for decades. It can be mounted independently, without having at hand any special tools or special building skills. But you still cannot call it an ideal solution. Although not as significant as mineral wool, it absorbs moisture. Very easily damaged and crumbled. Its granules have a low adhesive strength, so over the years they can fly out even with accidental pressure on the material.

But the main thing is not even that. There is a huge amount of uncertified foam on the market due to the high demand for it. Finding a high-quality and safe product for health is not an easy task. And the one that was produced in violation of technology, with an increase in temperature and exposure to sunlight, begins to release toxic substances. Given that the garage is a closed space, this is fraught with serious health problems for the car owner.

PENOPLEX (extruded polystyrene foam)

Perhaps, for warming the garage from the inside with your own hands is the best option. It is affordable, it is even easier to install than polystyrene - the joints do not need to be sealed with foam, because they have L-shaped grooves. It is easy to cut and can be glued directly to the wall.

But the most important, of course, is its ability to thermal insulation - one of the best among modern materials. And it remains the same in all situations. PENOPLEX does not get wet (moisture absorption coefficient is less than 0.4% in 28 days), is not afraid of defrosting-freezing cycles and lasts more than 50 years.

It is resistant to compression, does not shrink, absorbs noise, does not rot, does not infest insects, and to top it off, it is a homogeneous mass of polymer without separate granules. This provides him with high strength even after many years after the work carried out.

Summarizing all of the above, we conclude that this material is ideal for both external and internal insulation.

Reflective thermal insulation

It is a foil material, which in itself has rather modest heat-insulating characteristics and a small thickness. It reflects infrared radiation well, which means that it makes sense to use it only for heated rooms. If there is no heat source, there will be little benefit from it. Therefore, as a rule, it is used only as an additional means of thermal protection when using other materials. For example, PENOPLEX.

How to insulate a garage from the outside - step by step instructions

For outdoor work, it is most convenient to use rigid plates. The cheapest option is foam. PENOPLEX is more expensive, but much more effective in terms of moisture resistance, thermal protection, service life and strength. Therefore, we will consider the installation procedure for this particular material. However, it almost does not differ from foam insulation technology.

We will need:

glue (best of all branded PENOPLEX, since its composition is specially adapted for this insulation and does not destroy it);
spatula for applying glue or a special gun;
painting knife or electric jigsaw for cutting sheets;
fastening disc elements (4 pieces for each plate).

Step 1. Preparing the walls.

We clean them from old paint, dirt, dust, cobwebs and other things. You can walk with a primer so that the glue grabs better. But this is an optional moment.

Step 2 Attach the bottom bar.

It is typical for plates to start installation from the ground. We fix the starting profile on the dowels and proceed to laying the material in a checkerboard pattern.

Step 3 Heater fixture.

This is a simple matter: we apply glue in strips on the plate and apply it to the wall. We connect the L-shaped grooves to each other, due to this, a snug fit of the material without gaps is ensured. When the glue dries, for greater reliability, we fix the sheet with dish-shaped dowels.

Step 4 Final works.

To protect PENOPLEX from ultraviolet radiation and make the facade more aesthetic, we plaster the walls or cover them with siding, DSP, and other materials.

Technology: how to insulate a garage from the inside with your own hands

As you can see, even an unprepared person will cope with external insulation. However, internal work is also not particularly difficult.

Floor insulation

It can be done in different ways. One of the simplest and most time-consuming options is PENOPLEX insulation under the screed. To do this, the floor will need to be slightly raised. This will reduce the height of the room, but you won’t have to dig a pit - you can mount a heat insulator on an existing floor. The order of work is simple.

1. We clean the surface, make a cement-sand screed (DSP) or level the coating using building mixtures. It is important that the differences do not exceed 5 mm.

2. At the next stage, we lay PENOPLEX FOUNDATION® directly on the floor without the use of glue and dowels. You can put insulating material in one or more layers.

3. In order to distribute the forthcoming point loads, it is necessary to fill with concrete mortar or self-levelling mixture 40 mm thick. At the same time, the insulation is insulated with a film, and its seams are securely fastened with adhesive tape. Between the wall and the screed, 1–2 cm of empty space is left to take into account thermal expansion and further make sound insulation by filling it with foamed polyethylene.

4. A finishing floor is laid at the finish.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling when insulating the garage from the inside

The order of work is approximately the same as with the walls. We glue PENOPLEX® COMFORT sheets, fix them with dowels, supplement them with a vapor barrier film, crate, close them with a finishing material, and the thermal protection is ready.

Warming the walls of the garage from the inside with your own hands

It can be carried out according to the same principle as for external walls, only using a vapor barrier film that is laid on top of the heat insulator.

Gate protection

Many are faced with the problem of seasonal “walking” of the pillars (the base of the gate), which is why they do not close. The best solution is to protect the base (pillars) from freezing when installing the gate. If you have already installed ordinary iron gates, then they must also be thermally insulated from the inside. If it is possible to attach the sheets to the dowels to the material from which the gate is made, it is worth doing it. If not, the usual glue method will do. Already glued insulation is covered first with a vapor barrier film, then with outer skin. To enhance thermal protection, foil polyethylene can be used.

Thus, the right choice of heat-insulating material makes the insulation of the garage a fairly simple process, which everyone can do.