What is the best way to plant beets next door. What next to what to plant in the garden

Every gardener, even if he does not have professional knowledge, should have an idea of what the compatibility of vegetables and herbs in the beds is.

You should not turn your beds into a communal apartment and plant strawberries, garlic, cabbage, and parsley in the corners. Still, each culture needs its own conditions for growth.

The gardener's golden rule is - never plant a crop from the same family side by side. Well, let's say tomatoes, eggplants and peppers. Because they have common pests and diseases. And if some kind of worm appears in the tomatoes, then he will immediately go for a walk throughout the seedlings. And if the beds are different, then you will have time to take some chemical measures to prevent the pest from moving to healthy crops.

For example, a powerful root system corn sucks out all nutrients from the soil with great force, and plants with a weak root system, such as onion, next to her will simply wither away.

Bad neighbors - cabbage and strawberries... The white-headed one has too large leaves, which will simply hide the thermophilic berry from the sun.

Cucumbers and tomatoes also do not get along very well. The thing is that the former need nutritious soil and high humidity, while the latter, on the contrary, need dry air and moderately fertile soil. Therefore, it is recommended to put two separate greenhouses for tomatoes and cucumbers, and not one common one. But since this pleasure is not cheap, summer residents stubbornly bypass this rule. And in vain, the harvest would be much better.

The right combination of several types of vegetables promotes full growth, reduces the likelihood of disease, creates a favorable habitat for beneficial insects and repels various pests.

Distinguishing Vegetables by Nutrient Requirements

The nutrient requirements of certain types of vegetables vary significantly.

In terms of nitrogen demand, vegetables can be divided into strong, medium and weak consumers. These needs must be taken into account when preparing the beds and applying fertilizers.

Strong consumers(high nitrogen demand): green, white and red cabbage, Chinese cabbage, kale, Brussels sprouts and cauliflower, broccoli, celery, onions, Swiss chard, tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, zucchini, pumpkin.
Average consumers(average nitrogen requirement): carrots, red beets, radishes, scorzoner, kohlrabi, onions, potatoes, fennel, eggplant, spinach, field salad, head lettuce, chicory.
Weak consumers(low nitrogen requirement): peas, beans, radishes, nasturtium (bedbug), herbs and spices.

We discussed a little general issues, now let's move on directly to the types of garden plants.

What gets along with what!

Peas

What to plant peas next to? Gardeners do not like this plant for its creep. However, it is worth considering the compatibility of different vegetables in the beds - and the disadvantage turns into an advantage.

The fact is that he gets along well together. with corn, and its powerful trunks will be an excellent support. Thus, you will harvest two crops from the same garden and save yourself the trouble of tying delicate peas.

Peas can be planted among cucumbers, this neighborhood will benefit both cultures.

Love peas eggplants and melons.

If your garden grows potato, then be sure to scatter peas over the planting, its roots will enrich the earth with the necessary trace elements.

And here onion and garlic need to be planted away from peas, such a neighborhood is useless at all.

Carrot

Better to plant carrots along the edge of the garden with tomatoes and peas.

This root vegetable goes very well with various herbs. This is sage and lettuce, onions and rosemary. Therefore, you can make prefabricated beds with fragrant leafy greens and plant them with carrots. Or vice versa.

And here dill and parsley you need to move away from the carrots, such a neighborhood leads to a deterioration in the growth and development of the root crop.

Green onions

The list of plants with which the onion is "friendly" is quite large. These are almost all the most important horticultural crops: beets and bell peppers, tomatoes and carrots, lettuce and broccoli.

Very well compatible with onions spinach, potatoes and cabbage.

However, to make you happy with the planting, avoid its neighborhood. with beans, sage and peas.

Bell pepper

A capricious culture that does not grow as well in our climatic zone as in more southern regions. However, this can be slightly improved by choosing the right neighbors. First of all, you need to remember that it cannot be planted in one bed. with beans.

But the neighborhood with tomatoes, on the contrary, it is very well tolerated.

Don't forget to plant greens and fragrant herbs, to make the most of the compatibility of vegetables in the beds. They go well with peppers basil and coriander, onion and spinach.

Lettuce

Experienced gardeners recommend planting lettuce together with white and Brussels sprouts, carrots and corn, cucumbers. Given that lettuce grows in a low, curly carpet, it helps to conserve moisture by keeping the liquid from evaporating so quickly. Cucumbers love this neighborhood very much.

Potato

Often it is this culture that occupies a significant part of the garden, which means that you need to carefully consider the compatibility of vegetables in the garden. Photos of the garden plots of professional gardeners very often show the classic combination of potatoes and legumes. Really, beans and peas they weave perfectly along the potato planting, bringing primarily the benefits of enriching the land. Although the legume harvest will not be superfluous either.

Potatoes go well with white cabbage and broccoli, corn and eggplant, garlic, lettuce and onions.

Eggplant

Its compatibility with other vegetables in the garden is fantastic. He has no enemies, he complements well in practice any culture.

However, if we talk about the health and quality of growth of the eggplant itself, then experts advise planting it next to potatoes and legumes, in particular with beans and peas.

Great neighbors for eggplant will be leafy vegetables. Experienced gardeners recommend planting next to blue ones basil and salad, spinach.

Peanut

This culture is exotic in our beds and is very rarely grown in the garden, but in vain. After all, agricultural technology is no more difficult than growing cucumbers, and you get a valuable and nutritious product.

The compatibility of peanuts in the garden with vegetables is due to their high requirements for nutrients. He'll get along well with cucumbers, who also love tall, warm and fertilized beds.

In addition, you can plant with it any legumes.

Corn

A useful culture that is often undeservedly forgotten.

However, it can serve as a natural support for climbing cucumbers In addition, aphids do not like corn, which means that your cucumbers will be under natural protection.

Curly legumes also perfectly compatible with corn, they can be planted around the entire perimeter of the garden. This is beans and peas.

She gets along well with melons and potatoes, zucchini and sunflower.

Tomatoes

A bed of tomatoes is not so conducive to the neighborhood, since voluminous bushes tend to capture all the free space. But you can use different planting methods, for example, arrange a high embankment in the center of the garden, on which to plant asparagus and basil, dill, lettuce, onions, parsley, spinach and thyme.

Tomatoes love the neighborhood legumes, so you can plant beans in the aisles.

An excellent option for planting in the nearest garden bed will be carrots and melon.

And here cabbage and corn should occupy another part of the garden.

Cabbage

As you already know, there are a lot of varieties of this plant, while at least white cabbage and cauliflower grow in each garden. It would seem that they can easily be planted on one bed, since you will remove the colored one much earlier than its neighbor is ripe. But in fact, they do not tolerate each other well, therefore, when planning a common bed, it is better to give preference beans and celery, cucumbers.

Get along well with cabbage and aromatic herbs, they help repel insects. This is sage and spinach, thyme, dill, onion... If the planting of white cabbage is not made too thick, then enough greens can be grown in the aisles, and also radish.

Cauliflower

She grows poorly next to her closest relative - white cabbage.

But it perfectly complements the beds with beans and beets, celery and cucumbers, sage and thyme.

Does not love tomatoes and strawberries.

Broccoli

It goes well with all of the listed plants, but does not tolerate at all cauliflower, so you have to form several beds for different types of cabbage.

Brussels sprouts

One of the most tolerant, it blends better in the beds with other species. The only enemy is tomatoes so tomatoes and cruciferous it is impossible to plant next to it under any circumstances.

And here dill and salad- please, you can add to the garden radishes and sage, spinach and turnips.

Cucumbers

When planting this crop, make sure that there is no nearby potatoes, melons and aromatic herbs, it is better to plant all the greens together with cabbage.

The cucumber loves a tall, warm bed, on which it will grow well with it. peas and beans, corn and lettuce, radishes. As in the case with the previous example of a universal bed, we allocate the central strip under corn. It will become a support for cucumber, beans and peas, which can be sown not only mixed, but also together, in one hole. Along the edge of the bed, you can plant lettuce and radishes, which will be removed quickly enough.

Plants that should not be planted nearby

The root or leaf secretions of some plants have a specific inhibitory effect on one or two other species, for example:

sage does not get along with onions
turnip suffers from neighborhood walker and highlander bird (knotweed)
marigold act badly on beans
wormwood- on the peas and beans
tansy- on the collard greens
quinoa- on the potato

There are plant species that secrete substances that are poorly tolerated by most other species.

An example is black walnut, growth-inhibiting juglone most vegetables, azaleas, rhododendrons, blackberries, peonies, apple trees.

Close neighborhood wormwood also undesirable for most vegetables.

Among vegetable plants, there is also a quarrelsome, or, as they say, “antisocial” species, which has a bad effect on many cultivated plants. This is fennel. It hurts tomatoes, bush beans, cumin, peas, beans, and spinach.

Some weeds of field crops not only compete with them for water and food, but also suppress them with their secretions.

Wheat oppresses a large number poppy and chamomile plants
Rape — walker and mustard field
Rye, on the contrary, it itself inhibits growth weeds, and if it is sown for two years in a row in one place, then it will disappear on this field wheatgrass

Crop plants are also able to inhibit the growth of weeds.

A striking example of negative interaction is the relationship between clover and all plants from the buttercup family. In their roots, a substance called ranunculin is formed, which even in extremely low concentrations inhibits the growth of nodule bacteria and therefore makes the soil unsuitable for clover. If a buttercup appeared on a field of perennial grasses, then the clover here will soon disappear completely.

In the kingdom of trees spruce is distinguished by an aggressive character... It is hostile to all other trees, the adverse effect of spruce manifests itself in the soil for 15 years after its cutting.

There are many examples of such relationships when in large quantities plants have a depressing effect on some culture, and in small quantities they are favorable for its growth. Such plants are recommended to be planted along the edges of vegetable beds, but only in small quantities.

It refers to white lamb (deaf nettle), sainfoin, valerian, yarrow.
chamomile in large quantities is harmful to wheat, and in a ratio of 1: 100 contributes to better grain completion.

Aromatic herbs

Aromatic herbs, whose leaves emit a large amount of volatile substances, are good companions for many garden plants. Their volatile secretions have a beneficial effect on vegetables growing nearby: they make them healthier, and in some cases significantly affect the taste.

For example, sweet basil improves the taste of tomatoes , but Dill- cabbage.

Known to all dandelion emits a large amount of ethylene gas, which accelerates the ripening of fruits. Therefore, its neighborhood is favorable for apple trees and many vegetable crops.

Most aromatic herbs are lavender, borage, sage, hyssop, parsley, dill, savory, marjoram, chamomile, crevel - work well for almost all vegetables.

Planted at the edges of garden beds or plots white lamb (deaf nettle), valerian, yarrow make vegetable plants healthier and more resistant to disease.

Dynamic plants- those that have a good influence on everyone and everything, maintaining the general tone: nettle, chamomile, valerian, dandelion, yarrow.

"Tyrants" oppressing all "neighbors" without exception:fennel and wormwood... Around fennel, indeed, everything is tormented. Him - to the fence.

“Helpers” for everyone - salad and spinach. They secrete substances that enhance the activity of roots and plants and shade the soil. So, everyone is fed!

"Quarrel" with each otherall umbellates, except for carrots: parsley, celery, parsnips, lovage, dill, cilantro. These are best planted apart.

It is useful to plant around the garden bed marigold: they will be an excellent protection against pests.

To get rid of the wireworm (clicker beetle larva), plant next to carrots beans... No matter what part of your plot you planted your favorite root crops, carrots are never spoiled by this pest.

How to combine incompatible

This question is especially relevant if you have a greenhouse. All vegetables love comfortable conditions, but a large greenhouse should not be empty, and it is occupied by a variety of fruit plants.

To separate poorly compatible plant species, use film canopies, which divide the greenhouse into certain sections. This helps to create a kind of microclimate.

In what sequence should you plant vegetables so that the garden bed is as efficient as possible?

We propose the same scheme used by German farmers. They arrange a very wide bed for planting root crops, about 1 meter.

Wherein potatoes are in the center(early varieties can be planted in two rows, and later in one). On the one hand, they are planted in a line eggplant, and on the other - head lettuce, kohlrabi and cauliflower. All these vegetables can be alternated in one row.

Sown along the edge of the garden two rows of spinach, and the distance between them and the rest of the crops is sown with leaf salad and radish.

Harvesting will take place as crops mature.

The green umbrella of lettuce appears first, it shades other, slowly growing crops and saves them from the scorching sun.

Lettuce ripens first, then spinach, then the turn of the radish comes.

After about a month, it's time for head lettuce and cauliflower.

Thus, the bed is gradually emptied, leaving room for the growth and development of eggplant and potatoes.

Now it is clear how to use the compatibility of different vegetables in the beds. How to plant correctly - personal experience will tell you, and for the first time you can use the ready-made scheme.

The benefits of mixed beds

Summing up everything that has been said, I would like to note that planning mixed beds helps a lot. save space and significantly improves the quality of the crop. Soil resources are used more evenly, and the plants themselves serve as a natural protecting each other from diseases and pests.

It should be borne in mind that the planting scheme can be changed to suit the needs of your garden, we have given only general templates. But be sure to respect the compatibility of vegetables. This simple rule always gives excellent results and does not require any additional costs and investments.

Experienced gardeners remove 11-15 kg of a wide variety of vegetables from one garden bed. The correct placement of plants in the garden also helps save resources as less water and fertilizer are required.

That, perhaps, is all about what constitutes the compatibility of vegetables in the beds. A list of plants that are "friends" and "not friends" with each other, look at the table. Use it - and a good harvest is guaranteed!

Spring sowing began in the fields and gardens. Gardeners plant cabbage, onions, eggplants and other vegetables and berries. However, when planting, it is necessary to take into account many factors that at first glance seem insignificant. For example, some crops should never be planted side by side. Also, the same vegetables cannot be grown in the same garden for several years. But you also need to change the arrangement of plants according to the rules. How exactly, said the experienced gardener from Krasnodar Lyudmila Taranova.

Helpful neighbors and not so

Plant compatibility must be considered. Some of them "help" each other, others, on the contrary, harm. It's all about the special chemicals that plants release during their life - they have a different effect on neighbors. See our infographic for details.

We draw up a plan for the beds

Judging by the experience of gardeners, a plant should not have a permanent place in the garden. If you plant a crop from year to year, without changing its location, there will be problems with the harvest, and with the soil. The situation can be corrected by competent planning of the area of \ u200b \ u200bthe garden.

Cabbage

Do not plant cabbage and other cruciferous plants (radishes, radishes) in the same place earlier than 2-3 years later. It is better to place white cabbage after potatoes, tomatoes, onions; planting after beans, peas, carrots and beets is permissible.

Potato

The best precursors for potatoes are cabbage and various root vegetables. A poor precursor for potatoes is tomato, since these crops share common pests and pathogens. Potatoes should be grown in the same place for no more than 3 years.

Cucumbers

For cucumbers, you should look for a new place every year. They grow best after cauliflower and early white cabbage. They can also be planted after tomatoes, potatoes, peas and beets.

Tomatoes

Accordingly, you cannot grow tomatoes after potatoes. Since, we repeat, the diseases and pests of these crops are the same. Good precursors for tomatoes are cauliflower and early white cabbage, pumpkin and legumes, root crops and onions are acceptable.

By the way, if you plant tomatoes in the same place every year, then the soil in this area becomes acidic. Therefore, every autumn, under deep digging of the soil, it is necessary to add fluff lime in small quantities (from 50 to 100 g per 1 sq. M), since tomatoes grow better on soils with neutral acidity (pH 6.5-7).

Beet

Growing beets in one place should be carried out no more than once every three to four years. Beets grow well after cucumbers, zucchini, squash, early cabbage, tomatoes, early potatoes, legumes. It is undesirable to plant beets after vegetables from the haze family (chard, spinach).

Onion

Onions should not be planted in one place for more than three to four years in a row. The best predecessors of onions are crops for which large doses of organic fertilizers were applied, as well as cucumbers, zucchini and pumpkin, cabbage, tomatoes, and potatoes. On heavy clay soils, onions will not give a good harvest; they prefer light, loose fertile soils and good lighting.

Garlic

You can grow garlic in one place for no more than two years, otherwise you cannot avoid contamination of the soil with stem nematode. It is better to plant garlic after cucumbers, early potatoes, early cabbage and other early harvested crops (except for onions).

Carrot

Sowed after early potatoes, cabbage, green crops (excluding lettuce), placement after tomatoes and peas is allowed.

Eggplant

The best precursors for eggplant are cucumber, onion, early maturing cabbage, perennial herbs. You cannot plant eggplants where potatoes, tomatoes, physalis, as well as peppers and eggplants grew last year.

Strawberry

The best precursors for strawberries are radishes, lettuce, spinach, dill, peas, beans, mustard, radish, parsley, turnips, carrots, onions, garlic, celery, and flowers (tulips, daffodils, marigolds). On poor soil, the best predecessors of strawberries are mustard, phacelia (they are also honey plants). Potatoes, tomatoes and other nightshades, as well as cucumbers, are unsuitable as precursors. After them, the plots can be occupied with strawberries only after three to four years.

Strawberry

It is good to plant strawberries after radishes, beans, mustard, radish, peas, parsley, garlic. Potatoes, tomatoes and cucumbers are of little use as precursors. Strawberries cannot be placed after all species of the Asteraceae family (sunflower, Jerusalem artichoke) and all types of buttercups.

In addition, if space permits, allocate a small area for growing herbs - siderates: clover, lupine, alfalfa and others. This will give rest to the earth, the soil will gain strength for growing vegetables.

Savior flowers

It turns out that crops can be saved from diseases and pests not only by chemical means, but also by flowers that should be planted next to vegetables. Both beautiful and practical.

Good protection against pests will be provided marigold... It is good to plant them not only in flower beds next to the window, but also along the perimeter of the garden and in the aisles. Marigolds, due to their properties, scare away nematodes from tomatoes and potatoes, save strawberries from weevils, and also drive away onion flies, scoops and cabbage whites.

Flax, clover and wheat marigolds protect against fusarium.

To improve the soil on the site and in the meantime to scare off the bear, you can scatter finely chopped marigold stalks before plowing the land.

Infusion of marigolds protects peas, cabbage, apple trees, cherries, plums, currants and gooseberries from aphids

To prepare the infusion, take the ground part of the plants, grind it with a secateurs and fill the bucket to half. Pour warm (about 40-60 degrees) water and leave for two days. Then it is filtered, 40 g of liquid soap is added (so that the infusion does not drain, but remains on the plants) and the mixture is poured into a sprayer. Processing standards: for a vegetable garden - 2 liters per 10 square meters; for one bush or tree under 6 years old - also 2 liters; for fruit trees and shrubs over 6 years old - 6-8 liters.

Will help against whitefly and whitefly nasturtium... Flowers can be planted next to tomatoes and cabbage. Also, nasturtium is good for fruit trees. Plant two to three bushes under a cherry, peach, or apple tree. In autumn, flowers can be crushed and buried in the trunk circle. It is an excellent green fertilizer.

Chamomile pyrethrium nicknamed the natural insecticide. If planted next to cabbage, vegetables will not be afraid of cabbage scoop and whiteworm caterpillars, as well as aphids. Try planting pyrethrum near the apple tree trunk in the spring. The apple tree will be reliably protected from the apple moth, aphids and other pests. Phlox neighborhood with chamomile will save from nematodes. And rodents do not like feverfew.

There is another beautiful protector of vegetables. Colorado potato beetle, for example, does not tolerate smell. calendula. Experienced gardeners advise planting calendula next to potatoes. Some people do this - in the spring they plant a row of potatoes, a row of calendula seeds, and so on. If the potatoes are already planted, plant the calendula somewhere nearby. In the fall, plant it in the ground where you are going to plant potatoes next year. Calendula is a good siderat. Also, the flower will save asters from fusarium, and rose bushes from nematodes.

Lavenderwill protect the site from ants and aphids, and the house from real moths.

It's not worth giving up on chemical remedies altogether, but try to focus on natural defenders.

Why is a neighbor's potatoes yielding, but worse on his plot with the same care? How does this culture develop, and what, in addition to traditional agrotechnical methods of cultivation, do you need to know in order for the crops to be consistently pleasing?

Not all summer residents and gardeners know that plants, like other living things, have their own characteristics in development. The roots of a plant, their leaves secrete certain substances that interfere with the development of other plants, and can, on the contrary, improve growth and even protect against diseases and pests. There is such a successful neighborhood that even improves the taste of certain cultures.

And the potato has its "friends", there are also unsuccessful neighbors. Therefore, when choosing what to plant next to potatoes in the neighborhood, you need to remember about its negative and positive effects on other plants and how they themselves affect the potatoes.

How to grow such an enviable crop?

Potatoes as a culture

Tuberous nightshade got the name "potato" from the Italian word "tarto", "tartufolli", which was explained by the similarity of the underground part of the plant with the fruit bodies of truffles. Later, the Germans formed their own version of the name, more similar to ours. In general, as you know, Peter the Great brought potatoes to Russia, and after several centuries this culture has become one of the most popular in the whole world. Currently, more than half a thousand of its varieties are known, in our country it is recommended to grow half of them, including varieties of table, technical, fodder.

This plant is known to everyone, but it was not always grown in Russia.

The potato is a plant with a height of 30 to 150 cm, in which stolons develop on the part submerged in the ground - shoots that form tubers. Tubers can vary in color, size, weight, depending on the variety. The most gigantic tubers can reach a kilogram or more.

Which neighborhood is unacceptable and which is possible

So what can be planted next to potatoes, and what harms it and neighboring crops?

Choosing the right neighborhood improves the yield of both crops.

It is no coincidence that potatoes have to be given increased attention. Firstly, because planting it, as a rule, takes up a lot of space on the site. Therefore, the choice of what to plant between the rows of potatoes is very important. Properly thought-out placement will not only improve the quality of the potatoes, but also save space, make the plantings more compact, and the site will be used more efficiently.

When choosing a site for potatoes, you need to take into account the following parameters:

illumination of the place - is the area in the sun, partial shade or shade;
the level of soil acidity - can be keel, alkaline or normal;
feature of the soil - the soil can be sandy, chernozem, loam, etc.;
dependence of neighboring plants on irrigation or fertilization.

All this must be taken into account before planting plants on the site. And, of course, know about the compatibility of different cultures when selecting partners.

Such a successful neighborhood can only be envied

It is categorically impossible to place potatoes with plants of the same as it, of the nightshade family. These include peppers, tomatoes, eggplants, which is associated with common diseases and pests for them. So, even inexperienced summer residents know how the Colorado potato beetle can instantly get from potatoes to a tomato or eat eggplant bushes in one night.

Gardeners know what harm this neighborhood can cause if infection with late blight occurs. At the same time, the treatment of potatoes with pesticides is less harmful than the use of the same solutions for other crops, which accumulate in fruits more substances harmful and poisonous to humans.

Advice. In a small area where you cannot find extra space for the separate cultivation of vegetables of this family, it is recommended to separate the plantings with plants that, with their aromas, are capable of scaring off pests. For example, such opponents of the Colorado potato beetle, such as marigolds or calendula, show themselves well. Tall corn, beans, beans can also become a kind of shield in the way of harmful insects.

The second unwanted neighbor is strawberries. Planting potatoes near the plantation of this berry will lead to the fact that during the rainy season the berry field can become a breeding ground for black gray rot (this crop is extremely susceptible to this disease), which can also spread to potato bushes. They have another enemy - a nematode, from which both potatoes and strawberries suffer. A wireworm in such a neighborhood affects potatoes faster than usual.

Advice. Dividing strips with crops of carrots, beets, radishes or spinach will help protect these crops from negative interactions.

A beautiful rural landscape, in which the potato field rests on the golden rims of the sunflower, will in fact yield a poor harvest. This is because oilseeds are extremely nutrient-dense. Therefore, it is possible to grow something in the vicinity of a sunflower only when organic fertilizers are applied to the soil.

The potato row cannot be interspersed with sunflowers, if there is such a need to combine these crops, then oilseeds can only be planted in the direction from north to south - so tall plants at least will not shade lower potato bushes.

What else does potatoes get along with badly? Of course, you should not place it under apple trees, and grapes and cherries will not benefit from such a neighborhood. They will be harvested, but the taste of the fruit is noticeably worse. Unsuccessful placement of potato beds - under currants, raspberries, sea buckthorn.

What to plant next to the potatoes next door

Of the options for a bad neighborhood, one can also name celery, including leaf, root, petiolate, as well as parsley, which also oppresses potatoes.

Determining what can be planted near potatoes, many summer residents choose cucumbers for potatoes as neighbors. Firstly, because everyone is planting this vegetable, and he needs to find a bright place. Secondly, such a landing has no direct prohibitions. Plants really do not harm each other. However, as in the case of nightshades, potatoes and pumpkin seeds (and cucumbers are also included in this family) have a common problem - this is the disease late blight. Cucumbers suffer from it more than others, if they take this disease from potatoes. Therefore, special literature often directly contains bans on placing pumpkins, cucumbers, and also squash with squash next to potatoes. But what if there is no other place but to arrange them side by side?

Advice. It is not necessary to plant cucumbers susceptible to disease in open ground; it is better to arrange at least a mini-greenhouse. Such a light fixture is made unstable - from wooden or metal arcs and plastic wrap. On a day when there is no rain, it can be opened by exposing the plants to light, air, and at night, cucumbers must be hidden from rain and dew by covering the greenhouse with foil. In close proximity, it is also required to carefully process the potatoes from pests so that pesticides do not get on the cucumber plantings.

To save other pumpkin seeds from infection, you just do not need to allow the contact of the pumpkin whips and the mustache of squash-squash with potatoes. Phytophthora will not affect the fruits, if at the time of pumpkin pouring something is placed under each pumpkin that excludes contact with damp earth, for example, wooden planks.

Now about what plants can be placed near potato ridges. You can safely plant all types of crucifers. The latter include cabbage, radish and radish.

Experienced gardeners generally do not consider radishes worthy of a separate place and, remembering its rapid entry into marketable ripeness, they often scatter seeds directly over the potatoes when planting. By the time of the first weeding of potatoes, the radish begins to ripen, and it is safely harvested. However, according to the rules, if you need to economically use the area and compact the plantings, then it is better to sow radishes in the middle of two double rows of potatoes. In this case, weeding can be carried out on the potato beds located on the sides, and after harvesting the radishes, hilling can be done. When cutting wide, in a meter, row spacings, between the potatoes, the radish also feels quite well.

Advice. In the aisles, except for radish and radish, you should not plant anything. So, cabbage, generally neutral to potatoes, will be in a depressed state, because potatoes with their spreading powerful tops will block the light for it, and cabbage of any kind needs a lot of sun. In addition, when the plantings thicken, both crops can get sick with such a common and unpleasant disease as black leg. It is undesirable to place carrots along the aisles, which, in general, are quite well adjacent to potato beds. The same can be said for other root crops, in particular, beets.

What's good for what

Of the useful plants that are best planted nearby in Russian conditions, the following can be distinguished.

All green crops and grasses are excellent for sowing close to potatoes. Lettuce, spinach, and even more fragrant dill, parsley, basil, coriander repel some pests with their pronounced smell. Moreover, it is not at all necessary to place them on a separate bed - greens and herbs grow well in the aisle.

For the same reason, you can compact potato rows with onions and garlic, as well as plant them around the perimeter of the main plantings - the smell will protect the potatoes.

Combined plantings can be quite beneficial for plants.

Separately, it should be said about the relationship of potatoes with green manure plants. Mustard is best suited for this role, which by secretions from its root system contributes to the disinfection of the soil not only under itself, but also around. It can be sown between potatoes, but should be cut off as soon as the plant grows to the height of the tops. The roots that remain in the ground while decaying will become a good fertilizer. The other best neighbor on the site can be designated any legumes. This family includes peas, beans, beans, all of which improve the soil by saturating it with nitrogen. By the way, the roots of legumes have a special smell, which the Colorado potato beetle does not tolerate, the larva of the click beetle does not tolerate. But if bush beans can without a doubt be planted even in rows, at least next to potatoes, then beans are useful only in planting along the edge. After all, they can significantly reduce the taste characteristics of potatoes, only because in the struggle for nutrients (and legumes need a large amount of them) they have stronger accumulation possibilities, which is why potatoes suffer.

The peas will ripen during the potato beetle processing period, but chemicals should not be allowed on the ripening peas. Therefore, if potatoes are processed only by hand, without chemicals, that is, pesticides, then peas can be sown. In this case, the rows of peas should be located so that they do not obscure the planting of a neighbor, that is, from north to south. Finally, gardeners have long been accustomed to sowing green beans along the edge of a potato field. And it is right.

As you can see from this article, nature has allowed many plants to be "mutually polite". It is important to know and respect the characteristics of each and place it so that the cultures in their neighborhood do not harm each other, but benefit each other.

From year to year, gardeners plant a huge number of different crops in the beds. Often, when planting vegetables, summer residents make mistakes that can negate all efforts to get a rich harvest. Indeed, with an unsuccessfully selected neighborhood, plants can get sick and soon die.

Peculiarities

Planting potatoes, like any other plant, is not an easy job. Especially when it is necessary to combine various vegetables in neighboring beds. The science of allelopathy proves that the interaction of neighboring plants can positively or negatively affect growth and yield. The ground and underground parts of vegetable crops fill the soil with minerals and trace elements that affect the composition and taste of the vegetable. The question arises, what vegetables and plants can be sown nearby.

Several factors need to be taken into account:

how much the beds are lit, whether they are located in the open sun or there is a shadow at the planting site;
what is the composition of the soil (clay soil, sandstone or black soil);
what is the acidity of the soil (neutral or alkaline);
whether it is necessary to make regular feeding of plants;
how much watering is required for different crops.

Based on these parameters, you can safely pick up potatoes "partners" in the garden.

What crops are suitable for potatoes?

Based on soil factors, there is a list of favorable "neighbors" for potatoes:

The best combination is with legumes. These include peas and beans. Thanks to these plants, the soil is saturated with nitrogen, which has a beneficial effect on the development of the potato crop.
Potatoes will be able to grow next to different types of cabbage. Cauliflower and kohlrabi will have a special effect on the growth of the root crop.
You can plant herbs next to potatoes, such as arugula or lettuce.
Some gardeners have gotten used to planting zucchini and eggplants near potato beds, which is also not contraindicated.
A good combination would be the neighborhood of potatoes and sweet corn. The soil must be sufficiently fertilized so that the yield of both crops will exceed all expectations. Corn next to potatoes is sown exclusively in warm regions.
Onion, sorrel and dill can be sown in between rows on potato beds. Thanks to this, the gardener will be able to enjoy fresh herbs all summer long. It is believed that the onion provides the best protection against the Colorado potato beetle.
An important factor is the proximity of potatoes to beets. There are no "conflicts" between them in the garden; they are excellent for neighborly relations and feed each other during the entire period of maturation. In addition, after harvesting, the beets are put in one bag with potatoes. One standard bag weighing 25 kg takes about 5 or 6 pieces of beets, depending on their size. Vegetables will not lose their appearance for a long period and can even stand in the cellar until next year.

Quite often, gardeners decorate the territory of the beds with various flowers in order to bring beauty and aesthetics to the plantings. Gardeners even plant flowers right in their garden rows. Roses of all varieties are especially popular. Potatoes help to cope with the growth of flowers and increase their number. The fact is that in each potato there is a nutritious substrate, which contributes to the saturation of the rose cuttings with moisture and shares phytohormones.

An interesting procedure can be used to plant flowers. It is necessary to select a ripe flower shoot and cut off the stem of the cutting with a pruner. For several hours, lower the plant in a special solution that stimulates the emergence of roots. After that, the stalk can be inserted into the prepared potatoes. The tuber should not have visible damage, and the existing eyes should be removed. Such a "rose in a potato" is placed in a separate container. For subsequent planting, it is necessary to prepare a hole, fertilize the ground, and make drainage. Only after that, the harvested flower in the tuber can be planted, after which it is painstaking to monitor its growth and flowering.

Unfortunately, not all vegetable crops can interact without problems. There are some plants that are strictly forbidden to plant near each other. For potatoes, first of all, the neighborhood with celery is contraindicated. Potato beds and sunflowers cannot be combined. Pumpkin can be attributed to the list of unwanted neighborhoods, although many gardeners disagree with this fact and plant vegetables in the neighborhood.

Some summer residents argue that carrots and potatoes cannot coexist. But this does not mean that they should not grow up next to them. Carrots should not be sown in the aisles, but in the next row they will not interfere. Thanks to personal experience, every gardener knows that it is strictly forbidden to plant potato tubers next to tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers, which have an overwhelming effect on potato seedlings. The fact is that tomatoes and peppers are subject to diseases identical to those of potatoes. The same goes for attacks by insect pests.

But it's not just vegetables that can negatively affect potato growth. Fruit bushes and trees can cause irreparable damage to the flowering of tubers. It is forbidden to make beds directly under an apple tree or near bushes with raspberries or currants. Only here the influence will go not on potatoes, but on fruit fruits. The same apples will yield less harvest, and the taste will be much worse. Strawberries near potato plantings cannot be called the best "neighbor". All wireworms (beetle larvae) "catch up" here, simultaneously affecting the growing plantings nearby.

But watermelons, on the contrary, are considered excellent companions with potatoes, but gardeners do not undertake to plant them next to them because of the size of the berries, which can subsequently become an obstacle to digging out the harvest.

Many gardeners share their observations in the process of collecting ripe vegetables. Some have noticed that horseradish, when planted on the sides of potato beds, has a beneficial effect on the growth of root crops. Late potatoes should be planted with peas. By the time of ripening, the peas are harvested faster, and its roots remaining in the ground will serve as an additional nutrient medium for potato tubers. In addition, the aroma from the rhizome of the peas repels pests, including the Colorado potato beetle.

Attention should be paid to the use of a mixed type of sowing. It consists in planting not only potatoes, but also cabbage, radishes and onions. Landing is required to be done according to a certain scheme:

For information on what vegetables can be combined in the garden, see the next video.