How to make a table out of. We make a beautiful and strong country table with our own hands

Furniture stores sell a huge variety of coffee tables: round, square, glass, wooden of any color and completely different cost. But all the tables are similar to each other, like twin brothers. It is very difficult to find an interior item that would not be like all the others. We invite you to create a magnificent, elegant and compact coffee table made of glass and wood with your own hands. Having such an interior detail, you will get great satisfaction from owning a completely unique item.

The table will bring comfort to your life: now you don't have to get up from the sofa to get a cup of coffee and the TV remote control - just turn the tabletop and voila!

The tabletop can be any of your choice: transparent glass, which reflects the sunbeams, or colored glass, suitable for the interior of your living room. If the glass does not fit the style of the room, then you can replace it with chipboard. The swivel stem is achieved by using rollers from a skateboard.

Tabletop made of ordinary glass is very fragile, it requires special attention. In order not to think about how it would not break into many dangerous fragments, we recommend using tempered glass of at least 10 mm, which will be cut and processed by a specialized company. Alternatively, you can buy a ready-made round countertop. Taking this little precaution will allow you not to worry that your child will hit the table while playing and get hurt.

The base of the coffee table is made from natural wood, the recommended thickness is 40 mm. and width 120 mm. The legs are 350 mm high. From leg to center length 450 mm.

On the planks that we plan to make vertical, draw the markings at an angle of 120 degrees, then cut them off. You have to try very hard to make the edges clear and even, otherwise a not very beautiful view will show through the countertop, so we recommend using a circular saw. As a result, we get beautiful strips with smooth edges.

The wooden frame is connected to each other with the help of furniture dowels and wood glue.

The horizontal part that is visible through the countertop must be properly assembled. To do this, first mark one of the planks with a pencil and drill a hole perpendicular to the cut.

We insert any sharp object into the hole of the first bar. It can be an ordinary nail wrapped with electrical tape, then squeeze them together; this will allow you to see the mark of the nail on the second bar and you will see the exact place to drill the dowel hole.

Then all the strips must be checked for symmetry.

All planks must be carefully machined with a fine-grained machine to avoid nicks that can cause injury.

To achieve the smoothness of the planks, you can open the surface in several layers of varnish, using an ordinary soft sponge. Each time the varnish is opened, we must alternate with grinding, otherwise the layers of varnish that we did before can raise the pile. The varnish must be allowed to dry completely.

The next step is to assemble the base. Where there are connections, it is necessary to smear with glue, then pull them together and leave for a day. The glue must dry.

However, just gluing the planks of the table may not be enough. For reliability, on the reverse side of the junction, you need to fix it with a metal plate. The frame is ready!

Next, we begin to install the rollers from the skateboard. You do not need to buy a whole skateboard for this, rollers can be purchased at any store that sells sporting goods.

The rollers must stand strictly at a distance of 100 mm from the edge of the table and are fixed parallel to their slats. If done incorrectly, you run the risk of getting an uneven countertop that will move out when you turn to the side. If everything is done correctly. but the tabletop still does not spin smoothly, then you can make a small hole in the center and put a metal or wooden rod with a large round hat there.

We will analyze practical tips that facilitate the process of assembling a table with your own hands and help to achieve the best results. The construction of a country house is divided into several stages. A serious step is the arrangement of the cottage. Furniture plays an important role in the comfort zone. A wooden table complements the overall interior and improves the functionality of the room. But its purchase may not always be successful, so we suggest considering a home-made option. It can be placed outdoors or indoors. Such furniture plays an important role in the arrangement.

As building materials we use either pallets or wooden boards. An unforgettable requirement for the material is the absence of moisture. With sufficient funds and desire, new boards will be very effective in construction. The quality and long service life of any furniture depends on the quality of the materials purchased for its assembly; how well they are treated before use. After successfully purchasing the necessary materials, and in this case these are wooden boards, fold them in rows and leave them to ventilate. This type of material, the longer it stays and ventilates, the better it will serve in the future.

Any furniture is primarily made only from dry wood.

As mentioned above, tables are suitable for a variety of places and serve as a complementary element of furniture literally everywhere. For each table, individual manufacturing methods are selected. For example, you set out to decorate the gazebo with a wooden table. And this is quite convenient and correct, since spending time in the summerhouse without a table is somehow uncomfortable. Just homemade furniture does not hurt. In the process of work, it is not necessary to glue the boards. It is enough to fix with the help of special fasteners. This approach greatly simplifies the manufacture of countertops for the street. Or you can buy them on the website https://stone-fortress.ru/. First, you don't spend a lot of time building. Secondly, it is quite realistic to replace the glue with other effective means, which means that financial costs will decrease.

Pallets, like wooden parts, are highly distinguishable in color. Accordingly, you visually decorate the table the way you want. Pallets have side parts. They are used as a framework. True, before this, the material must be sanded properly. It is worth considering that all the material is not used up. The remaining strips can serve as fasteners for the countertop. The place of fastening is in the area of the joints of the boards. To join the board, you need only two self-tapping screws. For the last whole - one.

Sidewalls and two boards will go to the construction of the frame. At the end, we fix the parts of the frame with self-tapping screws. The frame does not have to be attached with screws, just glue it on. Since the length of the screws is large, we drill individual holes.

Our table will be out soon. It remains to turn it over and do the grinding. Use coarse grit sandpaper at first, then fine grit later. The turn comes after the installation of the legs. To do this, you need four boards with exactly the same size. If necessary, of course, you will have to adjust the wooden boards in order to achieve an overall positive result. In this case, grinding is also an integral part of the work. Then each leg must be screwed. To do this, you need two self-tapping screws, which are important to place diagonally from each other. Installing a jumper will help ensure maximum stability. The distance between the floor and the jumpers should be at least 10 cm. When everything is fixed, we begin to drill holes for self-tapping screws. Thus, we fix the material so that it does not crack.

Now you have a complete design. Naturally, it does not hurt to somehow decorate it. For example, start with painting. Of course, with the first time there will be a hard pile. There is no need to be afraid, it is in the order of things. Again we take the sandpaper and begin to grind the surface until it becomes smooth. Due to such work done, dust is definitely generated. Accordingly, you will have to get rid of it. Then again we take up the varnish and cover the surface with it. It may be necessary to sand a third time, as the varnish will not lie flat the first time. In general, it all depends on the type of wood. So it’s better not to neglect unnecessary grinding, but to provide your wooden product with a beautiful look. After completing all the necessary procedures listed above, we get a beautiful wooden table made by ourselves.

Let's say the option of manufacturing from a newer material, if you do not want visible traces of nails or planks to be frightened by their heterogeneity. The tabletop is made in a variety of shapes: rectangular, square and round. The result depends on your personal preference.

Table from leftover materials

Sometimes it happens that at the time of construction or the next repair of the dacha, extra boards of various species remain. Instead of throwing them away, it is better to use this leftover material for more significant tasks. Make the same table. To do this, we select pine boards that will go to the frame (thickness 25 mm, width 50 mm). For the legs, we leave planks 15 mm thick, 50 mm wide. As for the size of the frame, everything here is purely at your personal discretion. This table is well suited for the veranda. And since this room is not large, it is advised to make it narrow (60 cm - width, 140 cm - length, height - 80 cm). Of course, if family members are not tall, it is perfectly acceptable to play around with the size of the countertop.

Next, you need to assemble the frame and fix the boards that act as legs. It is necessary to cut two boards 140 cm long. The width parameters are 60 cm. It is necessary to subtract twice the thickness of the used board - 5 cm. That is, the used bars should be 55 cm. Now fold the frame by twisting the screws. As the bars were folded, everything needs to be double-checked. Worthy of attention is the diagonal arrangement of the bars. If something does not converge, it should definitely be transferred, since the design of the countertop itself will suffer in the future.

Cut four boards and fasten them inside the frame (80 cm long). Use four self-tapping screws for each board. The lower shelf can become a complementary element of the countertop. For her equipment, fix the crossbar in the middle of the two legs. It will serve as a frame for the future shelf. In a similar way, work is done with other pairs of legs. In addition to the fact that the shelf will give more convenience, two jumpers significantly increase the level of rigidity of the structure as a whole. Fastening of jumpers should be carried out strictly at a right angle (check with a special square).

Now the frame is ready, it remains to check it. If the design is properly made, the frame does not stagger. It remains to polish it. Next up is the assembly work. Perhaps you have boards of different colors. Why not apply them in the right direction. For example, arrange planks on the surface in such a way that they alternate in color.

The last stage in the manufacture of countertops involves fastening the boards with nails. We fix the shelf from below with nails or self-tapping screws. Again, you need to polish the assembled product. And in the end it remains to paint. But it happens that they made a mistake with the choice of varnish or paint. And then what to do? If you want to change the look, you will have to re-sand the surface. Next, you need to re-take for painting with a new color.

Table with glued surface

The difference between the previous options is that the legs of this design go with the letter "G". Their assembly comes from boards of the same width and thickness (20 mm thick). Since the volume of the legs here is larger than the previous ones, accordingly, more self-tapping screws (5 pieces) will be required. In advance, you need to drill holes with a diameter of 1-2 mm (the hole should be smaller than the diameter of the screw itself). The second time you need to drill a hole with a larger diameter. It is intended for the head of the self-tapping screw, which is then closed with a furniture plug. In other cases, the rod is preferable to choose a furniture color.

Another great idea is furniture putty. In the mixture with which you will putty, add wood dust (take the remnants of sanding). When the putty dries, traces of holes will not be easy to find.

Working on the legs

When assembling the legs, you need to carefully ensure that the angle is 90 degrees. If there is no pattern, use a regular bar. To join two boards, spread one and the other with wood glue. Install the screws in the right places. When the glue dries, cover each leg with varnish. But before that, do not forget to polish.

Table top assembly

As the legs were made, the turn goes behind the top of the table. The tabletop is made of boards of the same thickness. Choose the sizes you want. Boards can be of various widths. It is important to observe the organic appearance. It is important that the side parts of the boards are evenly joined to each other without gaps. We also grease the side of the boards with glue. Then lay them flat on the surface.

To avoid possible gaps, tighten the boards with clamps. Leave the table surface overnight. As the day passes, remove the clamps - the countertop is ready. As before, we grind the surface and align the edges. Start trimming with a jigsaw or saw. Sometimes a grinder is also used, but in this way it is difficult to ensure the evenness of the line. And now the grinding stages are over, and a completely flat tabletop of a diligent look is obtained.

Glued plank top

Using the above method, make a round, oval or any other tabletop in shape. Of course, you can achieve evenness of the cut-out tabletop if you draw in advance the lines along which its shape is cut out. Frames can give an attractive look, but make them better with your own hands. Take a thin bar and sand it down. Fasten according to the perimeter of the tabletop. Finishing nails and glue are suitable for fixing (first of all, you need to process the planks with glue). The glue will dry, and the bar will need to be sanded at the joints.

There is no table without legs

The tabletop is ready, which means it remains to put the table on its feet. To attach the legs to the main part of the table, you will need a frame made of boards. It is attached to the back with glue. But this is not enough, because you need to fix it from above, using confirmations. First, on the countertop, you need to drill holes with a diameter for a hat. And then mask them, like the previous holes. Now the table frame is firmly fixed, start attaching the legs. The docking point must be inside the frame. For fasteners, we use ordinary self-tapping screws. The table is ready!

Table and benches in the garden

In the manufacture of tables and benches, boards of different sizes can be used. To connect the benches with the table, 16 cm studs are used (in addition to them, washers and nuts). Other connecting fasteners - no longer than 80 mm. So, each part of the garden table is installed in its right place. Then through holes are drilled with a drill. And then, as you yourself already understood, the turn goes for washers and nuts.

When tightening nuts with washers, it is better to use a wrench. Thanks to this approach, in the winter, you can easily unwind the structure and take it to a warehouse, garage, shed, or any other place to store such things.

Each board should be carefully sanded and trimmed. To fasten the three boards that are intended for the seats, you need to cut short bars. We cut each of them at 45 degrees. The first step is to start assembling exactly the part of the structure that is below. We take one large board (in the amount of 160 cm) and attach small bars to it. At the time of joining, they must be fastened in the middle of one large one. Now we add legs to this design (fasten with nails). Adding short boards again. All these elements must be tightened with studs, bolts and nuts. Thus, a support node is obtained, which secures the seat from below.

And it remains to attach the boards for the seats. By the way, if this design is intended for the street, it is not at all necessary to make a narrow gap between the boards. At least 5 mm is sufficient. The planks are fixed to sawn supports. We have two shops. It does not hurt to fix them with four boards 160 cm long. To fix all four legs, we use 2 studs for each leg. Install them either at the same level or diagonally.

Table in the garden

The principle of assembling the table is completely different from the previous options. The tabletop is held on boards that are cut down on the sides at 52 degrees. The sawn supports must be positioned so that the legs for the table can enter between them. Secure them with finishing nails. If you do not want to allow good visibility of the caps, drive them deeper. Just cover the surface with a special lubricant as a mask.

The legs of the table here are not standard, but look like crosses. To assemble them, take two boards and cross in such a way that the gap between the objects at the bottom is 65 cm. In the middle of the boards, leave a mark for crossing the boards. The mark is drawn in the form of a square and half the thickness of the board itself. Do the same for the other board. We get two materials of the same plane. The connection process takes place with the help of four nails. By analogy, the second pair of legs is made.

Now to assemble the table as a whole. First of all, the most important thing is to fix two pairs of legs into the main structure on which the benches are placed. We place the legs parallel to each other in the middle. Naturally, they need to be fastened with studs so that they do not fly off in the future. The tabletop is attached in a similar way. If the studs are screwed in, proceed to grinding and painting. Paint the design in any color that suits you. In addition to this design, those options are also acceptable that imply a separate table from the benches. The assembly of the structure takes place in a similar way. Of course, except for the seats.

Making a wooden table with your own hands, as it turned out, is not so difficult. There are moments that require utmost attention to some things in the manufacture. If you follow the above recommendations, your table will turn out perfect. The choice of good materials and competent performance of work will ensure a long service life of the product. The design will be able to impress with its functionality and decent appearance.

Video: DIY wooden table

Photo gallery: DIY table

A do-it-yourself kitchen table is both an opportunity to save money and a way to provide the kitchen with unique furniture that fits perfectly into the available space. However, it is important to correctly determine the dimensions and shape of the future structure.

How to make a wooden dining table

A table made of solid wood is beautiful, natural and, as a rule, expensive. But buying such a table is not necessary, because you can make it yourself with no less quality and for much less money.

So, to make a dining table with your own hands, you will need:

4 things. baluster legs for the table, 73 cm high and not too thin;
For the tabletop: 4 dry edged wooden boards 1 m long (for a table 60 cm wide);

For the frame: 2 boards 80 cm long and 2 boards 40 cm long.

Prepare tools: planer, grinder or grinder, jigsaw for cutting boards, circular saw, drill (with 8 mm drill), screwdriver, sandpaper, self-tapping screws (30 mm), wood glue, dowels, clamps (preferably). And, of course, a pencil, tape measure, gloves and goggles will come in handy.

To finish the table, you will need varnish, stain or paint along with a primer. Let's make the table first. To do this, you need to accurately fit all 4 boards to the same length - 100 cm. If your boards were not sawn at the sawmill, then they also need to be trimmed in width and thickness. Then they need to be carefully polished with a planer. The better you sand the wood, the smoother the countertop will be. Work the edges well so that the boards fit as tightly as possible to each other.

We will connect the boards not with screws and nails, but with glue and dowels (chops). To do this, we make the same marks on the edges of all boards in increments of 10-15 cm and drill holes for the dowels with an 8 mm drill. Then we sand the edges and apply wood glue to them and into the holes made. Now we drive the chopsticks processed with the same glue into the holes and connect all 4 bars in turn. We remove excess glue on the surface with sandpaper and grind it, as well as all edges with a planer. At this stage, you can go over the countertop with a metal sponge to give the wood texture.

So, the tabletop is ready. Now you need to fasten the legs and make a base for it.

To do this, you need to evenly fasten the balusters with short transverse boards with glue and screws. The glue dries for at least 12 hours.

We fasten the legs to the long crossbars and drill holes in them in order to install the countertop later.

After the glue in the frame dries, you can proceed to install the countertop on it (frame).

If you want to make the table longer and wider, then you need to strengthen the table with two additional cross bars, as shown in the photo.

So, the table is almost ready, it remains only to treat it with varnish or stain or paint it, having previously primed it.

What color to paint the table? Start from personal preferences and the color of the rest of the furniture. Below is the most versatile option - the table top and legs are stained.

You can see the main mistakes of staining a tree with your own hands in this video.

If you like gloss, then the surface of the table can be stained, and varnished on top (example in the photo below), or simply varnished.

You can paint the legs white, and stain the countertop to get a design like in the next photo.

How to make a kitchen table from chipboard

A do-it-yourself kitchen table made of laminated chipboard is a practical and budget solution. Such countertops are covered with decorative plastic, which is resistant to abrasion. In a typical version, the dimensions of the tabletop canvas are 3000x600x36 (26) mm, but today it will not be difficult to purchase a chipboard sheet sawn to the desired dimensions or negotiate in a furniture workshop to sell a suitable trim.

You will also need:

Connecting and end strips;
end edges;
Ties.

Even if you get a countertop of the right size, you will need to additionally process the ends - this will make the result more attractive, as well as ensure that the base is protected from moisture. For these purposes, you can use a special furniture edging based on polyvinyl chloride or glue an edge tape. The edging option is considered more practical for a dining table and suitable for home craftsmen.

For the kitchen table, you will also need appropriate supports - you can buy the legs separately or give preference to the finished base. It all depends on which option your drawings provide. The most common option is round legs D = 60 mm and 71 cm high. They can be collapsible, adjustable in height, and also differ in design - matte, painted, shiny.

In our case, these will be shiny chrome-plated legs-rods with a diameter of 60 mm, as well as a tabletop made of white chipboard 36 mm thick and a white plastic mortise T-shaped edging with girths is matched to it.

So, how to make a dining table with a chipboard top:

The marking is applied to the material according to the drawing. Rounding corners must have a radius of 60 mm or more.

The tabletop is shaped with a jigsaw.

A saw with reversible teeth should be used, otherwise the plastic coating may be chipped. First, the corner of the chipboard is cut with a jigsaw with a margin of 2 mm, and then it is finally rounded off with a grinder.

A groove for furniture edging is milled.

The edging is stuffed. Before this, the ends of the product must be covered with silicone sealant. The sealant is laid both in the edging and on the top side of the countertop. A rubber mallet is used to stuff the piping. Then the excess sealant is removed.

The legs are attached. To do this, markings are made with a pencil on the back of the table top. In most cases, the legs are placed 100 mm from the edge.

To fasten the holders, self-tapping screws with a countersunk head about 20 mm long are used. After that, the legs are put on the holders and fixed with a hex key - that's it, your new table is ready.

How to correctly determine the dimensions

According to the principles described above, tables can be made larger or smaller in length and width. How to choose the best size for your family?

If we are talking about a standard kitchen with dimensions from 6 to 8 squares, then the drawings will show a typical design with a height of 750 mm and a perimeter of 800 * 500 ... 1200 * 600 mm.

A do-it-yourself dining table should be calculated for a certain number of people. Usually it corresponds to the number of residents - 3-9, but a couple of free places are still added for guests. For large companies, a good solution will be.

Calculations are carried out as follows: the number of persons is multiplied by 60 (“working” perimeter per person). As for the width of the countertop, here we follow the recommendations of experts - its optimal values are from 800 to 1100 mm. Narrow tables are difficult to serve, and wide tables are uncomfortable for those sitting.

If you decide to make the kitchen table oval (round) with your own hands, then you will have to calculate the circumference - diameter * 3.14.

Form Selection Rules

The shape of the kitchen table plays a significant role in the perception of space. Universal design - a rectangle or square with right angles. It is balanced and can be installed close to the wall or in the center of the room, saving space.

Oval models are also quite comfortable and beautiful, but they do not differ in large capacity - the most dimensional product will accommodate no more than 8 people. In addition, they require large areas - more than 8 square meters. meters, because you can’t put them against the wall.

It can also be called a universal and traditional option, suitable for both very and large kitchens. But it has less capacity than a rectangular table.

The best option is a rectangular table with rounded corners. How to make such a table from chipboard with your own hands, we have already described above.

Furniture care rules

After the dining table is made, you will need to take care of the long service life of the product.

So, furniture made of wood, polished and lacquered, needs careful care, as it can be easily scratched. In addition, traces of contact with hot are possible here. A universal polishing composition is selected as a basic wood care.

If we are talking about a countertop made of MDF or chipboard with a plastic coating, then caring for it is not difficult and consists in regular washing with detergents.

Do not forget that kitchen furniture must be moved away from heaters and from walls bordering the street. Direct sunlight will also be harmful to wooden furniture.

It is no secret that furniture is used in the country house that has served its time in the apartment. The table is no exception. However, in country conditions, the furniture that served perfectly at home may not always fulfill its purpose. We are talking about modern tables, made mainly of chipboard. Such tables are not suitable for gazebos, verandas, gardens, and even in a house with high humidity in the off-season, their service life is limited. In such conditions, a wooden table is necessary, but a wooden table is not a cheap pleasure. The solution to the problem is to make a table with your own hands. To do this is quite simple. In addition, this will save a lot, including on delivery.

The simplest table design

The simplest table design is shown in the photo below. At the same time, such a design is the least expensive both in terms of materials and manufacturing forces.

Fig.1.

Optimal table dimensions

One of the advantages of making a table for giving with your own hands is that the table can be made in any size. Thus, the table is easy to adjust to the dimensions of the gazebo, porch or kitchen.

To make it easier to navigate in size, I will give a dimensional grid, which is most often used in the production of tables. The size chart is based on the size of the countertop.

60x90 cm. A table with such dimensions is optimal for 3 people. At such a table it is convenient to have lunch, drink tea, etc. Due to its size, it will fit well into any small space.
80x120 cm. 4 - 6 people can comfortably sit at such a table. Usually a table with such dimensions is appropriate to place in a large kitchen or on a veranda.
More than 120 cm. Tables with such dimensions are good for feasts. In the conditions of a summer residence and the limited space of a country house, such a table is mainly installed in a gazebo or under a canopy in the open air.

Naturally, when making a table with your own hands, the size can be made arbitrary, however, in order to be comfortable at the table, you should follow the recommendations given above.

Manufacturing procedure and table drawing

The drawing of the table is shown in the figure below.

Fig.2.

Table legs are made of a wooden bar with a section of 40x40 mm and a length of 70 cm. If you want to decorate the table, then balusters can be used as legs. They are carved, and will make the design of the table more interesting.

The support for the countertop can be made from a board with a section of 25x150 mm, sawing it lengthwise into two halves. For support, you need 2 boards 650 mm long and 2 boards 1050 mm long.

With a countertop, everything is much more interesting. The tabletop can be made in various ways. The easiest option is to purchase a furniture board of the required size. It can be purchased at chain hypermarkets of building materials.

Fig.3.

Following this path, it should be remembered that the furniture board is made by gluing small pieces of boards, and with constant exposure to atmospheric precipitation, it will quickly become unusable. Therefore, a table with a table top made of furniture board must be varnished or painted to protect it from moisture.

Another option is a plank top. Boards can be used in any size. For example, a section of 25x100 mm. This is a simple and cheap countertop option. This option is devoid of the disadvantages that are inherent in the furniture board.

Fig.4.

However, without special equipment, it is unlikely that it will be possible to tightly fit the boards. Therefore, the countertop will have gaps between the boards. It looks good for a garden table. But not very practical.

You can get rid of the gap mentioned above by using an unusual, tongue-and-groove board. It will cost a little more, but you get a smooth, even tabletop.

Fig.5.

As a grooved board, boards for the euro floor can be used. They are easier to find in the store. It is only important not to forget to cut them from the wrong side.

Table assembly

Once all the elements of the table are ready, you can start assembling the table. The assembly of the table is carried out in a certain order.

First, assemble the support for the countertop and fix the legs to it. This is the most difficult moment in assembling the table. As described earlier, the countertop support consists of 4 boards. They need to be connected to each other. This can be done in several ways.

The photo below shows how to assemble the support for the tabletop and fix the leg to it with a special tie.

Fig.6.

This method is the ideal solution, except for the fact. That it may not be easy to purchase a special screed.

Another way is to pull the entire structure together with a wooden block.

Fig.7.

When applying this method, you need to pay attention to the fact that the bar must be sawn off at an angle of strictly 45 degrees. Otherwise, the table will not be rectangular.

In my opinion, the simplest and most affordable option for assembling the legs and supports for the tabletop is to use a metal general construction corner 50x50 mm in size. You can buy it in any store, and it has the correct geometric shape.

The last step in assembling the table is installing the table top. Depending on the type of countertop, it can be fixed in various ways. The furniture board can be attached with corners or with glue. Separate boards with self-tapping screws and glue.

Fig.8.

As you could already understand, making a table for a summer house or a house with your own hands is quite simple. It's important to get creative. Such a table can be decorated with any paintwork. A handmade wooden table will delight you every day and will last for many years.

Wooden tables and decoration ideas

Fig.9.

Fig.10.

Fig.11.

Fig.12.

A do-it-yourself table may well be made even by a home craftsman who does not have any experience in carpentry. Of course, this will become possible if the design of the table is fairly straightforward and understandable.

For example, it is not always possible to find a suitable ready-made table model for an overly small kitchen. Buying custom-made solid wood furniture is quite expensive. Therefore, sometimes you have to take up tools and design your own “work” on your own, starting from the specific dimensions of the place where you plan to install the table.

In addition, there is often a desire to show their creative abilities in the conditions of a summer residence, especially since there is always a desire to beautifully equip a veranda or gazebo of a suburban area. If you have the right materials and tools at hand, you can either sit down to draw up a drawing of the future table, or use a ready-made project, and then get to work.

To figure out which type of table you can build with your own hands, it is advisable to consider several options for this piece of furniture.

Tools for the job

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare the appropriate tools that will be required for the manufacture of any wooden table. The amount of material for each model will be different.

You can use the usual, traditional hand tools that carpenters have always worked with. This list usually includes:

Planer, which level the wood and drive the parts to the desired size.
Chisels for sampling various holes and grooves, removing small protrusions.
Saws of various sizes and modifications, which are used to cut thick boards or make small cuts.
Pencil, tape measure, corner and ruler.
Screwdriwer set.
Clamps for temporary fixation of glued parts.
Sandpaper for grinding.

Many of the tools can be replaced by more modern and convenient devices:

An electric jigsaw will do all the work for which the various saws mentioned above were previously used.

Jigsaw rating

The grinder will help to make the surfaces even and polish them to a shine, eliminating the very tedious manual sanding procedure.

Milling machine with a set of cutters. This device will help round sharp corners, drill curly grooves for furniture hinges, and if you need and have some experience, you can use it to decorate the table with a relief pattern.

will significantly speed up the work, since you will not have to spend several minutes twisting each screw. In addition, during certain operations, it is possible to install one of the cutters or conventional drills into it, for example, in order to process an edge or make a perfectly even large or small hole (groove).

The building level will help to make the product even and neat, as it will show all possible irregularities and distortions.

So that the finished furniture does not turn out "skewed", the assembly is controlled by the level

An easy-to-make table for a summer cottage

To make a similar country table - everyone can do it

Necessary materials

For such a country house, having a tabletop size of 1680 × 850 mm, not too many wooden blanks will be required. You need to prepare the following:

Timber, section - 750 × 100 × 50 mm - 4 pcs. (table legs).
Self-tapping screws, bolts and possibly metal corners.
Joiner's glue.
Board size:

1680×100×25 mm — 4 pcs. (longitudinal frame elements);
850×100×25 mm — 2 pcs. (transverse frame details);
1580×100×25 mm — 2 pcs. (facing boards for the side elements of the frame);
950×100×25 mm - 17 pcs. (boards for countertops).

All wooden elements must be treated with compounds and have a prepared smooth surface. If it is planned to “darken” the wood, then it is covered with a stain, and for the appearance of a textured pattern, it is carefully passed from above with a grinder. Fine-grained sandpaper will remove the faded raised parts of the wood pattern, and they will become lighter than the depressions.

Installation of a garden table

When all the details for the frame are prepared, you can proceed to the assembly.

Frame or "box" of the table

The first step is the details of the tabletop frame - four longitudinal boards 1680 × 100 × 25 mm in size and two end boards 850 × 100 × 25 mm, laid out on a large table or on the floor. On the end boards, the location of the inner and outer boards is marked. Using a ruler, based on the drawing, the required distances are measured and marked with a pencil. Be sure to accurately note the width of the longitudinal board at the junction with the end, especially if the connection will be made by tie-in.

The connection of elements can be carried out in different ways:

Connection with the choice of "quarter" and using metal corners

- using a steel corner - this is the easiest and most reliable way;

- the tie-in method is a more complicated method, since it requires exact dimensions not only in the width and length of the connecting elements, but also in the depth of the board;

Several types of tongue and groove connection

- “groove-thorn”, shown in the second figure a), b), c), d) and e) such a connection is also quite difficult for beginners with no experience;

- dowel connection is shown in fragment e) - this method also requires perfect accuracy when marking and drilling holes in the parts to be joined.

All connections, as a rule, are carried out using glue. The only exception is the fastening of parts end-to-end with a metal corner.
The frame must have perfectly aligned right angles, therefore, after connecting all the elements, it is necessary to carry out control using a building corner and measure and compare the length of the diagonals.
If the parts are fixed with glue, they must be fixed in clamps and left until it dries completely, otherwise they will not be connected securely.

When the glue dries and the frame acquires a certain rigidity, cladding boards measuring 1580 × 100 × 25 mm are fixed to the outer longitudinal sides. The place of their fastening also needs to be marked, since along their edges there should be a distance for mounting the legs. Facing boards are also planted on glue and fixed with self-tapping screws, the heads of which should be sunk into the wood by 1.5 ÷ 2.0 mm.

The next step is the transverse sheathing of the tabletop with boards 950 × 100 × 25 mm. The place of their fastening must also first be marked, starting from the middle of the frame, since they must be installed at a distance of 5 mm from each other. The worktop protrusion above the frame should be 25 mm on all four sides.

Further, each of the boards is fixed in four places to the longitudinal elements of the "box" of the table, and the extreme boards are also fixed to the end sides. In order for the self-tapping screws to be recessed, recesses with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled in the boards to a depth of 2 ÷ 3 mm, then, in the center of these recesses, through holes are drilled with a drill of a smaller diameter (usually 3 mm), into which the screws will be screwed. In order to avoid cracking of the boards during installation work, it is necessary to drill through holes.

After that, legs from a bar with a section of 750 × 100 × 50 mm are fixed to the edges of the longitudinal boards, they must exactly match the width of the table top.

The next step is to install the legs.

The legs can be fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws, but it is better to fix each of them with two bolts, placing them diagonally at the junction. Through holes are drilled for the bolts, and nuts are tightened on them from the inside of the frame using a wrench.
The final stage of manufacturing is the sealing of the self-tapping screws with a mixture made from carpentry or epoxy glue and sawdust. With this home-made putty, fill the recesses above the caps and level them well. After the glue dries, the entire countertop, and especially the places covered with “corks” of glue, must be sanded well.

After that, the table can be varnished or water-based paint. After waiting for the decorating or protective layer to dry, the product can be installed in a country gazebo, on a veranda or terrace in a recreation area.

If desired, it will be easy to make a bench or a set for the table.

Small folding table for the kitchen

Such a small folding table is perfect for a small kitchen or a very small room.

Its design is designed in such a way that the tabletop cannot fold on its own if the table leg is accidentally hit, so the table is quite safe for installation in the children's room.
The presence of a double-sided capacious bedside table will allow you to store various little things and small toys in it.
The table is equipped with a worktop of sufficient size so that the child, sitting at it, can do homework.
In addition, on the tabletop there is a place for a laptop or books necessary for studying.
If necessary, this small table can easily replace an ironing board if a soft cloth is laid on its surface.

Given all of the above, the table can be called multifunctional, despite its very compact size.

Find out how, and also check out several models with detailed instructions in a special article on our portal.

Necessary materials and parts for a folding table

To assemble such a comfortable piece of furniture, you need to prepare all the details that make it up. The list of necessary blanks is given in the table below, and how to make them will be described and shown below:

Scheme of the table with the assembly part numbers affixed (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge)

part number on the drawing	the name of detail	Quantity, pcs.	Part size, mm	Production material, thickness, mm
1	Folding table top.	1	600×600
2	Fixed table top.	1	600×475	Plywood 25 mm thick
3		2	530×30
4		2	120×30	Plywood 18 mm thick
5	The upper end part of the groove, which limits the movement of the leg.	1	122×30	Plywood 18 mm thick
6	Groove element for leg movement on a folding tabletop.	2	530×20	Plywood 18 mm thick
7	Groove element for the movement of the legs on the table top.	2	120×20	Plywood 18 mm thick
8	The lower end part of the groove, which limits the movement of the leg.	1	122×20	Plywood 18 mm thick
9	Side walls of the table.	2	720x520	MDF 19 mm
10	The horizontal details of the pedestal, forming shelves.	3	520×312	MDF 19 mm
11	The lower vertical part of the internal partition of the pedestal.	1	418×312	MDF 19 mm
12	The upper vertical part of the inner partition of the pedestal.	1	312×184	MDF 19 mm
13	The middle horizontal part of the pedestal.	1	310×250	MDF 19 mm
14	Cabinet door.	1	477×346	MDF 19 mm
15	Cabinet shelf.	1	310×250	MDF 19 mm
16	The front panel of a drawer of a curbstone.	1	346×209	MDF 19 mm
17	The front panel of the drawer (located behind the front).	1	418×312	MDF 19 mm
18	Drawer side panels.	2	341×250	MDF 19 mm
19	Back panel of the drawer.	1	272×120	MDF 19 mm
20	Bottom panel of the drawer.	1	341×272	MDF 19 mm
	Drawer handles and drawer doors.	2	Ø 30 mm	Wood
	Upper leg piece.	1	80×80×18	Plywood 18 mm thick
	Mobile table leg.	1	Ø top 55, bottom 30, height 702	Wood
	Furniture hinges for connecting two parts of the tabletop.	2	Ø 50 mm	Metal
	Furniture hinges for doors.	2	The size depends on the shape.	Metal
	Bottom end panels covering the gap under the pedestal.	2	20×300×5	Plywood 5 mm

The drawings show a drawing of the table, which can be relied upon in the process of manufacturing and assembling elements into a single structure.

The main dimensions of the table (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge) Separate components of the table - a drawer and a guide channel for moving the legs (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge)

For the manufacture of all the parts listed in the table, modern electric tools will be required that are able to bring the workpieces to professional perfection.

Find out how to do it with a photo and description in a special article on our portal.

Installation of a folding table-cabinet

It is worth starting the manufacture of the table with the most important and largest part of it - the table top. Since the table is folding, this element will consist of two parts - stationary and "mobile", that is, one that can be folded down if necessary. When folded, this table may well serve as an ordinary compact pedestal.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	The first step from plywood 25 mm thick, using a jigsaw or a circular saw, is to cut blanks for the countertop, 600 × 600 and 600 × 475 mm in size.
	Further, marking is carried out on a larger panel - a semicircle is drawn, since the front of the table should be rounded. In order to achieve the correct shape of a semicircle, you can use a large construction compass, or you can make it yourself - from a nail, pencil and rope.
	Then, along the marked line, the tabletop is rounded. This can be done using a jigsaw or a circular saw with the appropriate compass attachment on it.
	Further, a milling cutter of the desired configuration is installed on the milling machine, which will make the edges of the tabletop smooth, if desired, even or rounded.
	The semicircular part of the panel is processed with a milling cutter, leaving the side that will dock with the second part of the countertop even. Then its edges are processed in the same way.
	In the next step, the two processed parts of the tabletop are laid on a flat table at a distance of 5 mm from each other. Marking is made for the installation of furniture hinges. They must be placed at a distance of 100-120 mm from the edge of the countertop. Furniture hinges can have different shapes, so they should be laid in the marked place and circled with a simple pencil. Then, using a router, special curly grooves are arranged in plywood, the depth of which should be equal to the thickness of the furniture hinges. In the finished holes, the loops are fixed with self-tapping screws.
	After connecting the two parts of the table top with hinges, in the middle of the panels, on their lower side, markings are made to secure the parts that will form a closed channel for the movement of the moving table leg. The guides must be fixed at a distance of 30 mm from the junction of the two parts of the tabletop. For the manufacture of parts, plywood with a thickness of 18 mm is taken. Then, 10 elements are cut out of it and processed by a milling cutter: 530 × 30 mm in size - 2 pcs., 530 × 20 mm - 2 pcs., 120 × 30 mm - 2 pcs., 122 × 30 mm - 1 pc., 120 × 20 mm - 2 pcs., 122 × 20 mm - 1 pc. It is important to remember here that long slats should have 45˚ cuts on one edge, and short elements on both sides, so that when joined, they form a right angle. In addition, the upper long and short parts, fixed over the lower rails of the rails, are cut off at the ends, also at an angle of 45˚. These sections are necessary so that their corners do not interfere with the movement of the legs along the formed channel. Then, to the lined section of the rounded, and then to the rectangular part of the countertop, the parts are glued with carpentry glue. First, they are fixed with glue, and then the longest rails, having a size of 530 × 20 mm, are screwed with self-tapping screws, then the part 122 × 20 mm blocks the channel. On top of the long and short fixed rails, the second ones are glued, having the same length, but a greater width - they are also additionally screwed with self-tapping screws. Thus, an even channel is formed between the table top and the top rail, along which the leg will move. It is very important to calculate the location of the places for screwing in the screws so that the upper ones do not stumble upon those that fix the lower rails. In the same way, four parts are fixed on the rectangular part of the tabletop. All elements must be processed to smoothness and perfectly evenly fixed to each other, otherwise the leg will bump into obstacles and jam when moving.
	The leg is usually made on a lathe. If it is not there, then you can order it from the master or purchase it ready-made. In extreme cases, you can make it square by processing the timber of the desired height to smoothness. Then, on the upper end part of the leg, with the help of a dowel and glue, a guide square plate made of plywood, measuring 80 × 80 × 18 mm, is fixed exactly in the center.
	Further, after the glue has dried, the leg can be installed in the channel intended for it and tested for its free movement, without jamming. If necessary, minor adjustments and modifications can be made.
	The finished tabletop is painted or coated with a water-based varnish - if the goal is to preserve the textured plywood pattern. After that, the finished tabletop is put aside and proceed to the manufacture of cabinets.
	The elements of the cabinet do not have complex configurations, therefore, in order to make them, it is enough to accurately transfer the dimensions of the parts indicated in the table on an MDF panel or thick plywood and carefully cut them out with a jigsaw or saw. After the parts are made, their end parts must be machined to smoothness with a milling cutter, otherwise they will look sloppy.
	If you plan to paste over the visible end parts of the cabinet parts with a special laminated edge tape, then this process is carried out using a conventional iron. The tape on its inner side has a layer of glue, which heats up under the influence of heat and provides reliable fixation of the edge on the surface of the end parts of the MDF panels.
	The next step in the cabinet door panel is to make curly grooves into which furniture hinges will be installed and fixed. Holes are made in the same way as in the countertop using a router, but in this case, the cutter can also be installed in a screwdriver, since MDF has a lower density than plywood and is easier to process without chipping the material. The hinges should be located at a distance of 100 mm from the edges of the door - before drilling, it is necessary to carefully mark out. A similar procedure is carried out with the wall of the cabinet, on which the door will be fixed. Then the door walls are joined together to check the correct installation and to mark holes for self-tapping screws.
	In addition to the hinges, you can immediately screw the prepared handle to the door. To do this, stepping back from the edge of the panel 50 mm and finding a comfortable position in height, a point is marked through which a through hole is drilled to secure the handle.
	All manufactured parts of the cabinet are painted with paint of the selected color using a roller and brush. The paint will not only make the product aesthetically attractive, but also protect the material from the negative influence of the specific kitchen humid environment.
	Next, you can proceed to the assembly of the nightstand. Professionals carry out this process using special tools, but they can be replaced with improvised devices. For example, you can assemble on a flat table, and for ease of installation of the cabinet, it is additionally installed on even bars. Mutual fastening of parts can be carried out using wooden dowels, metal furniture corners or self-tapping screws - the latter option is the simplest, but also the most unreliable. In addition, the caps of the self-tapping screws after assembly will have to be masked with various compositions. The build process goes like this: - The bottom panel is placed on the stands. - One of the side panels and its location are marked with a pencil using a building corner. -Immediately, the location of fasteners is simultaneously outlined on the horizontal and vertical panels. - Exactly the same procedure is carried out with the second side and dividing middle wall. - Then, holes are drilled at the marked points of the bottom and the end sides of the side panels for installing dowels. - After that, before gluing the parts, places for installing shelves are determined on the side walls. Then, in the marked places, shelf-holder brackets are mounted, for which holes are also drilled. - Further, dowels lubricated with glue are installed in the holes drilled in the bottom, side walls are put on their upper, protruding part. - In the same way, non-removable jumper shelves are mounted, simultaneously with the side walls.
	Before continuing work, you need to make sure that the glue in the assembled structure has dried out well. To make the cabinet more rigid, it is laid on its side and compressed with clamps for drying.
	While the glue dries, you can start assembling the drawer. Since it will be completely assembled from MDF, the installation of the drawer can also be done using dowels. The sides are attached to the bottom of the box, and a line is drawn along them with a pencil, and then marks are made of the places where the dowels will be installed. Then, the sidewalls are removed, and at the marked places, holes are drilled in their end for mounting fasteners. The same is done on the bottom panel. Further, the dowels are smeared with glue and carefully inserted into the holes, connecting the sides to the bottom.
	Between themselves, the sidewalls are twisted with the help of self-tapping screws, the heads of which are recommended to be drowned in wood, and the holes are sealed with a mixture of epoxy glue and sawdust. Another option for fastening can be furniture corners, which are screwed to the sidewalls from the inside with self-tapping screws. Each side will require two corners.
	When assembling a box, it is necessary to control the evenness of its corners with a building corner and a change in diagonals, otherwise a skew may form.
	If you plan to install metal roller guides for easy movement of the box, then first, on the sides of the boxes and on the inner walls of the cabinet, the place of their attachment is determined. To do this, using a pencil and a ruler, a line is drawn along which the guides will be fixed.
	Next, a front panel is installed to the front of the box. It is screwed from the inside of the box, through pre-marked and drilled holes. It is recommended that, in addition to self-tapping screws, glue is used to fasten the panel: it is applied to the front panel, and then the front panel is pressed against it, and they are pulled together by four or five self-tapping screws. After the glue dries, a hole is drilled in the center of the front panel, through which the handle is screwed.
	Finally, the long-awaited moment comes - the connection of the cabinet and countertop. It is recommended to first glue the stationary part of the tabletop to the surface of the cabinet, and then fix it with self-tapping screws, which are screwed in from the inside of the lower cabinets. But, first, the countertop must be properly positioned. Part of the channel located on the permanently installed tabletop panel should rest against the side of the cabinet - it will serve as a stopper for the movement of the legs towards the table. The tabletop should extend beyond the edges of the cabinet on the side of the drawer by 50 mm, open shelves by 30 mm, and from the side of the leg by 120 mm.
	Having fixed the countertop, they proceed to the final installation and screwing the bedside table doors onto the self-tapping screws. Then a drawer is inserted, and shelves are installed on the shelf holders.
	When closed, the table is compact, so it does not take up much space and looks quite aesthetically pleasing. If desired, for its decoration, you can choose other colors that will better harmonize with the interior of a particular room.
	In the open state, the table also does not take up much space and fits perfectly into one of the corners of the room. Thanks to its "light" design, it does not weigh down the interior, and the shape of the table top makes it safe for children. Therefore, this version of the table can be considered ideal for small apartments with small kitchens and rooms.

If there is a need to save money, or there is simply a great desire to prove oneself in carpentry, then you should not postpone self-production. Moreover, the assembly will become not only an interesting and useful activity, but also very enjoyable, especially at the moment when the work is successfully completed.

For those who are confident in their abilities, another interesting version of the round table is offered, which may well serve both at home and on the site.

Video: round table assembly example

And one more idea of a kitchen table, which, if incorrect, will also be within the power of a skilled owner to implement independently: