Organic fertilizers - what are they and how to prepare them yourself? Organic fertilizers: types and methods of application What is included in organic fertilizer.

The composition of manure depends on the type of animal, its food, bedding, storage method and degree of decomposition. Nitrogen is found more in sheep and horse manure, as well as manure on peat litter.

Chemical composition fresh manure, %:

Below is the composition of fresh manure according to other data, in%:

Components	Manure on a straw bed					Manure for peat. litter
	mixed	horse	bovine	sheep	pigs	horse	bovine
Water	75	71,3	77,3	46,6	72,4	67	77.5
Organic	21	24.5	20,3	31,8	25	-	-
Nitrogen (N)	0,5	0,58	0,45	0,83	0,45	0,8	0,6
Phosphorus (F2O5)	0,25	0,28	0.23	0,23	0.19	0,25	0,22
Potassium (K2O)	0,6	0,63	0.50	0,67	0.60	0.53	0,48
Lime (CaO)	0,35	0,21	2,4	0.33	0,18	0.44	0,45
Magnesium (MgO)	0,15	0,14	0,11	0,18	0,04	-	-
Sulfurous acid (SO3)	0.10	0,07	0.06	0,15	0,8	-	-
Silicic acid (SiO2)	-	1,77	0,85	1,47	1,08	-	-
Iron and aluminum oxide (R2O3)	-	0,11	0,05	0,24	0,07	-	-

Based on the degree of decomposition, manure is divided into fresh, semi-rotted, rotted and humus.

• Fresh manure. the straw changes slightly in color and strength. The aqueous extract (water passed through manure) is reddish-yellowish or greenish in color.
• Semi-decomposed manure. The straw is dark brown in color and breaks easily. The water discharge from it is dark in color.
• Overripe manure. Individual straws cannot be detected. It is a homogeneous black smearing mass. The aqueous extract from it is colorless. Humus. A homogeneous loose earthy mass, dark brown in color.

Changes in the composition of manure depending on the degree of decomposition:

semi-rotted manure that has been in a manure storage facility or piles for some time loses its original color, as the straw in it becomes dark brown. The composition of semi-rotted manure includes approximately 75% water, 0.5% nitrogen, 0.3% phosphorus, 0.4% potassium, or, if converted to kilograms, with 10 kg of manure an average of 50 g of nitrogen is added, 25 - 30 g phosphorus, 40 - 50 g of potassium.

Rotten manure, like humus, is a homogeneous mass; these are products of deep decomposition of organic matter, and in some cases it is recommended to use these particular groups of manure.

Manure storage

There are the following methods for storing manure.

• Hot (loose styling). Manure is loosely placed in piles 2–3 m wide and 1.5–2 m high. This creates favorable conditions for aerobic bacteria, and the temperature of the manure rises to 70 °. After 3-4 months, 1/2–1/3 of the dry organic matter may be lost (overturned). This method is used when it is required to obtain well-decomposed manure in a short time.
• Cold (tight styling). Manure is tightly stacked in piles with a width of at least 2-3 m and a height of 1.5-2 m. After compacting the mass, the piles are covered from above to reduce air intake and reduce nitrogen losses. At the same time, decomposition, with the exception of the surface layers, occurs under anaerobic conditions (without air access) at a temperature of 20-25 ° in winter and 30-35 ° in summer. Decomposition occurs more slowly than with the hot method. Fresh manure turns into semi-rotted manure in 3-5 months, and into rotted manure in 7-6 months. In 3-4 months, manure loses 1/9–1/10 of its dry matter. This method is the most acceptable.
• Hot-compacted (loose laying with compaction). Fresh manure is first laid loosely in a meter-long layer 2-3 m wide, and on the 3rd–5th day, when the manure warms up to 50-60°, it is strongly compacted and subsequent layers are laid on it in the same way until the height of the stack reaches 1 ,5-2 m. After compaction, manure decomposes under anaerobic conditions at a temperature of 30-35°. Semi-rotted manure is formed after 1.5-2 months, rotted - after 4-5 months. This storage method is used in cases where there are pathogens in the manure or it is necessary to accelerate its decomposition.

Manure additives

Manure will be better if, when laying it, add superphosphate (up to 2% of weight) or 3-5% phosphate rock (or bone) meal (in layers every 15-20 cm). Manure will be stored better if it is composted with peat. If there is no peat, it can be replaced with soil, but there should be less of it - 20-30% of the weight of the manure. It is useful to cover the top and sides of the pile with turf.

Application of manure

It is better to plow manure under spring crops in the fall, with the exception of light soils. Humus should be applied in the spring. Manure must be immediately plowed when applied (to reduce losses of organic matter and nitrogen). The manure is plowed to the depth of the arable layer (slightly shallower on heavy soils than on light soils). More decomposed manure is plowed to a shallower depth.

If there is a lack of manure, it can be filled into holes or nests at half the rate. It is also useful to apply rotted manure when planting trees and shrubs at the rate of 5-10 kg per planting hole.

Doses are determined depending on the crops, and based on the norms of plant use of nutrients in the first year after plowing. On less cultivated soils, in humid and cold areas, doses of manure are usually higher.

The use of some nutrients by plants from manure in the first year

In the first year after plowing manure, the use of nutrients from it, depending on the type of manure and the characteristics of the crops, is about 8-38% nitrogen, 30-55% phosphorus, 46-80% potassium (see table).

Manure	N, g/kg manure	P, g/kg	K, g/kg
Fresh manure on a straw bed
bovine	0,4-1,7 (1,0)*	0,8-1,5 (1,1)	2,3-4 (3,1)
horse	0,5-2,2 (1,3)	0,8-1,3 (1,0)	3,0-5,1 (4,0)
pigs	0,4-1,7 (2,0)	0,6-1,0 (1,3)	2,8-4,8 (4,8)
sheep	0,7-3,1 (1,9)	0,8-1,3 (1,0)	3,1-5,4 (4,2)
The same, on a peat bed
bovine	1,2-3,0 (2,1)	0,8-1,4 (1,1)	2,4-4,2 (3,3)
horse	1,6-2,3 (2,0)	0,7-1,2 (1,0)	2,2-3,8 (3,0)
* Average values ​​are given in parentheses (g/per 1 kg of manure). The effect of manure continues on light sandy soils for 3-4 years, on clay soils for 6-10 years.

For fertilizer, it is better to use rotted or at least semi-rotted manure, and for planting (sowing) - only rotted, or better yet, humus. In fresh straw manure, the amount of nitrogen available to plants is insufficient, especially in the first two months after applying it to the soil.

Horse and sheep manure decomposes faster, which is why it is advisable to use it on heavy soils where decomposition of organic matter occurs slowly.

Scientific research and practice show that an excess of nitrates in vegetables is often associated with excessive application of fresh (not decomposed) manure. In some cases, when fresh manure is introduced into the soil, ammonia is released from it, which is toxic to plants; leaves wither and subsequently dry out. In such cases, the manure should be covered with soil as soon as possible.

slurry

Slurry (mullein) - semi-liquid and liquid manure - is a fast-acting nitrogen-potassium fertilizer.

Of the many tests of urine and slurry of cattle and horses, the following can be suggested as average:

From these data it is clear that both urine and slurry can be classified as nitrogenous and at the same time potassium fertilizers, that there is no phosphoric acid in urine at all, and very little in slurry, that urine, seeping through the litter, loses a significant part nitrogen and potassium, and acquires very little phosphoric acid. But in addition, such a change in urine generally indicates the ease of loss of nitrogen both in it and in the slurry.

It is advisable to use slurry for composting with peat and various plant wastes, as well as for feeding (0.5–1 kg/sq.m.). To prepare composts and feed plants, the slurry is diluted with water 3-5 times. To increase the effectiveness of the slurry solution, phosphorus fertilizer (6–10 g P) is added to the solution bucket.

As a fertilizer, slurry can first be applied as the main fertilizer for all plants, at the rate of 200-300 kg per 100 m.

It is also used for feeding all ornamental and vegetable crops (50-70 kg per 100 m2). It is especially effective when plants are starved of nitrogen.

When feeding, slurry is diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 5 or 1: 7, depending on its concentration. Fertilize fruit crops and vegetable crops no later than a month before harvesting.

Extracts from manure

In stores, among the products for gardeners, you can see canisters with extract from cow or horse manure. The advertisement says that these extracts can easily replace several tons of manure and are even better than manure, since they are enriched with various additives necessary for the plant.

Liquid organic fertilizers such as manure extracts are intended for plant nutrition. If the main supply of plant nutrients is contained in humus, then liquid fertilizers are used for top dressing during those periods when plants require it. They do not serve as food for soil microflora and do not contribute to the replenishment of humus reserves. For plant nutrition, manure extracts and other liquid organic fertilizers are better than mineral ones, since plant nutrients are contained in them in a more balanced form and, moreover, they do not cause such harm to soil microflora as mineral fertilizers, especially in high doses. However, we must always remember that manure extracts are very rich in soluble nitrogen and therefore they should be used sparingly and only during certain periods of plant development. In rotted manure, nitrogen passes into an insoluble form and therefore there is no danger of overdose.

Thus: manure – soil nutrition, manure extracts food for plants and they cannot replace each other.

Feces

It is a fast and powerful fertilizer, rich in nitrogen and phosphorus. Average chemical composition of feces:

About 500 kg of feces (450 liters of urine and 50 kg of feces) are excreted per adult per year. It is better when the faeces in the cesspools are systematically covered with peat chips or earth, or a mixture of them (each time 1 glass or more), which eliminates the unpleasant odor and prevents the reproduction of flies.

Over 60% of nitrogen can be lost from feces within 6 months. It should also be borne in mind that they may contain worm eggs. To preserve nitrogen and destroy pathogens, feces are used mainly for making composts, preferably with peat. Good humus is obtained by composting dry leaves or sod, folded in layers and abundantly watered with feces. A mixture of feces with the ground does not warm up to the desired temperature, so it must be kept for at least 3 years.

Urine (urine) collected from 50 people can fertilize one hectare of land, which is equivalent to adding 120-150 kg of nitrogen per hectare. In other words, the urine collected daily from one person is enough to fertilize 1 square meter of the field. For soils poor in nitrogen, a larger volume can be used in several passes.

Feces should not be applied directly to the soil, especially for vegetable crops that are used raw. For sanitary reasons, it is better to apply fecal fertilizers to the soil in the fall (1.5–2 kg/sq.m). Fertilize with a mixture consisting of 1 part feces and 3-4 parts peat. Good results are obtained when fertilizing sandy and light loamy soils. It is better to apply it to the soil (especially clayey soil, where this fertilizer leads to the formation of a soil crust) in holes or furrows, followed by backfilling with soil.

Various ways to use urine as fertilizer:

• Adding urine without dilution. Before sowing, urine can be added without dilution. Undiluted urine is used to fertilize trees. Urine can also be added to moisten the compost.
• Adding diluted urine. If the crops have begun to grow, urine is diluted with water in a ratio of 1 to 4 to 10 to fertilize the plants. A safe addition is 1 to 7 (1 part urine to 7 parts water) for all plants.

After fertilizing, it is recommended to cover the area with earth or leaves to avoid evaporation. To prevent contamination, it is recommended to use urine only during the growing season, that is, in spring or summer, for winter crops - in early autumn. Do not use fertilizer in winter!

Powder-closet (dry toilet)

In small home restrooms, powder closets (with peat crumbs added) or modern dry closets are often used. A plastic container is used as a powder closet, at the bottom of which a small (2-4 cm) layer of peat is first poured. For ease of use, a larger container can be placed on an axle with two removable wheels.

For backfilling, you need so much peat so that the mixture is not smeared, but crumbly (then it is easier to remove it from the container (pit). On average, per person per year, at least (dry peat crumbs): 100 kg of sphagnum peat, 300 kg of meadow peat If possible, these doses are increased by 2-3 times.

If there is no peat, you can use sawdust, small shavings (from an electric planer), straw cuttings, dry leaves, dried pond sludge, and even garden soil for dusting powder.

Composted feces are high-quality humus.

Fresh feces contain pathogens (disease-causing bacteria and viruses. Therefore, they must be treated before being used in the field or garden. Composted feces are safe to use and they:

• improve the structure of the earth,
• improve the quality of the land,
• good fertilizer (phosphorus, potassium, magnesium).

How much compost should I use?

Human waste contains only 0.5 kg of nitrogen, 0.2 kg of phosphorus and 0.17 kg of potassium per year. Therefore, compost is better used as a soil improver than as a fertilizer, and can be added in fairly large quantities:

• 1-2 liters of compost per square meter of land,
• 2-3 liters/sq m for plants with high nitrogen consumption, such as potatoes and onions,
• 3-4 liters/sq m for plants with very high nitrogen consumption, such as corn, tomatoes,
• 1 part compost mixed with 1 part soil for balcony plants.

"Setting"

Sewage sludge on irrigation fields (“sludge”) contains fewer nutrients than feces. Depending on the moisture content of the sludge and the crop being fertilized, the dose of precipitation is from 2 to 10 kg/sq.m.

Bird droppings

Poultry manure is a complete, fast-acting fertilizer because it provides nutrients in an easily accessible form. Its composition varies depending on the type of bird, their age and food. In terms of chemical composition, it is 3-4 times richer than cow dung.

10 kg of chicken manure contains an average of 220 g of nitrogen, 180 g of phosphorus and 110 g of potassium. Bird droppings in the garden are usually used in liquid form for spring and summer fertilizing of fruit and berry crops. One part of the litter is diluted with 7-8 parts of water and left for 2 days. Before applying to the soil, the mixture is shaken and diluted again with water in a 1:1 ratio. A bucket of this mixture is added at the rate of one per 2 m2. Bird droppings can also be used in the fall when digging up the garden at a rate of 250-300 g per 1 m2.

Ingredients (%):

Chicken droppings contain significantly more nutrients than duck and geese droppings. From one chicken you can get up to 6 kg per year, a duck 8 ru, a goose 11 kg. litter If you don’t have your own birds, droppings can be purchased at poultry farms. Here it is processed at high temperatures or composted.

Application of litter

The nutrients in the litter quickly dissolve in water and are easily absorbed. In addition, they are released gradually and therefore, unlike mineral fertilizers, retain their effect for 2-3 years (which must be taken into account when introducing manure).

Bird droppings in the garden are usually used in liquid form for spring and summer feeding of fruit and berry crops. One part of the droppings is diluted with 7-8 parts of water and infused for 2 days (according to other sources, it is not advisable to infuse bird droppings with water so that it ferments - nitrogen loss will be 50%). Before applying to the soil, the mixture is shaken and diluted again with water in a ratio of 1:10 - 1:12. A bucket of this mixture is added at the rate of one per 2 sq.m.

Bird droppings can also be used in the fall when digging the soil, at a rate of 1-1.5 kg of wet droppings (or 0.6-0.8 dry) or in smaller doses: 0.3-0.5 raw droppings (0.2-0 .3 dry), for application into furrows, holes - 0.08-0.1 kg. For liquid fertilizers (0.05-0.1 kg), the manure is diluted with water immediately before application to the soil in a ratio of 1:10 or 1:12 and mixed thoroughly. Used mainly for feeding.

For vegetables that require more potassium (potatoes, some root vegetables, etc.), its deficiency is compensated by adding fertilizer, for example, 100 g of potassium chloride per 1 kg of litter. However, we must remember that an overdose of litter is dangerous, since it results in the accumulation of nitrates in vegetables. To eliminate the harmful effects of manure, it is added together with straw, peat or sawdust in a ratio of 3:1.

Doses of bird droppings for vegetable crops, kg / sq.m (according to A. Popov):

Culture	1	2	3
Ka-pu-s-ta b / koch	0.6-0.8 (spring or autumn)	0,5	4-8 l per sq.m
Pumpkin-veins. then-ma-you	1.5-2 (weight)	0,8-1	14-18 l/sq.m
Roots	0.9-1 (only se-new)	0,5-0,6	10-15 l per sq.m
Onion garlic	0.9-1 (autumn-new)	0,4-0,5	5-10 l per sq.m
Green	1-1.2 (autumn-new)	0,5-0,6	on vno-syat
Potato	1.2 (spring)	don't contribute	don't contribute
1 - Doses (kg/sq.m) of raw (fresh) soil with bedding during the main soil processing 2 - The same, doses of raw chi-s-to-me 3 - Doses of liquid supplements: 1 part of the mixture with 100 hours of water and kept for 2-3 days at room temperature -nat-noy tem-pe-ra-tu-re. Under-car-m-li-va-yut after 7-10 days (with subsequent watering with clean water), but at least 3 times per season. To balance the nutritional substances, it is useful to add (from the amount of a.m. per 1 bucket of litter): nitrogen 10-80, potassium 10- 100.

Storage

To reduce nitrogen losses, which in 2 months can reach 30–60% of the initial amount, litter should be stored by composting in layers (20 cm) with various moisture-absorbing materials - peat, sawdust or straw cuttings (25–50% of the weight of the litter) . Dry compost is watered. After 2 months it is ready. At the same time, pathogenic microorganisms, helminth eggs, and weed seeds die in it.

It is better to incorporate such manure compost into the soil in the fall. On sandy soils, this can be done in the spring - two weeks before sowing or planting seedlings. It is better to apply manure compost into furrows or holes.

Bird droppings can also be stored in a dry place in a mixture with peat chips or powdered superphosphate (respectively in a ratio of 25-60 and 6-10% by weight of the droppings) or in a closed container. or by composting it with various moisture-absorbing materials: peat, sawdust or straw cuttings in a 3:1 ratio. It is better to store dry droppings in some container (plastic bag, barrel, etc.) protected from air.

Peat

Peat contains few plant-available nutrients, but it increases the humus content and improves soil structure. It contains a relatively large amount of nitrogen, which is, however, in a poorly digestible form. To convert organic forms of nitrogen into mineral forms (nitrates, ammonia) accessible to plants, it is economically advisable to use peat for the preparation of composts. The dark color of peat helps absorb heat and quickly warm up the soil.

Based on the degree of decomposition, three types of peat are distinguished. Horse is distinguished by a low degree of decomposition of plant residues and high acidity. Lowland is characterized by a high degree of decomposition and lower acidity. Transitional peat occupies an intermediate position between them.

Chemical composition of various types of peat, % :

Peat enriches the soil with organic matter, helps regulate soil moisture, and improves its structure. Mainly used for composting and mulching. It is not economically profitable to use peat for fertilizers in its pure form, since it contains few nutrients (the costs are not recouped by the increase in yield). It must be borne in mind that all peat decomposes slowly in the soil, and the nutrients contained in them cannot be quickly used by plants. Weathered lowland peat with a high degree of decomposition (35–60%) can be used to fertilize the soil. Transitional and high peat are used for compost.

Peat is applied at any time of the year, even in winter on snow. But we must not forget that lime must be added to it. In the garden, peat is best added to composts, as well as soil mixtures for growing seedlings and protected soil.

humus earth

Sod-humus and manure-humus soil, preferably loamy soil, is a valuable fertilizer and an excellent component for soil mixtures. Occupies an intermediate position between garden soil and humus.

Sod-humus soil. In the spring, turf is cut about 10-15 cm thick with a thick grass stand. Lay the turf in rows (grass to grass) in stacks in the form of a cube with a side of 1 m. Each 25–30 cm layer of turf is interspersed with a 5 cm layer of fresh manure, slurry, droppings or feces. As the layers of turf are laid, they are moistened.

A depression is left in the top layer for irrigation and rainwater collection. The dimensions of the stack should not exceed 1.8 m in height and width. To protect from rain, the stack is covered with film, but kept moist - in the summer, it is watered from time to time with water or preferably diluted slurry and shifted once, preferably twice. By autumn the land is ready.

Manure-humus soil. It is obtained from decomposed manure mixed with soil, usually it is taken from a greenhouse (from under cucumbers) and kept for another year.

Composts

Compost is a very common strong fertilizer obtained by fermentation (decomposition) of a mixture of organic substances, often with the addition of mineral fertilizers. There are many types of compost.

General rules for preparing composts

When preparing different types of compost, you should follow the general rules.

• What kind of pile or "box"? It’s worth thinking carefully about what to build - a “box” (box) or a pile (stack)? By the way, there is a good proverb by Czech gardeners: “three small compost heaps are better than one large one,” the truth of which each of us has the opportunity to verify over time. Although the optimal size of a “box” for a heap in the literature is usually recommended so that each wall is about a meter long, one must take into account the advantage of small heaps, which is that the bacteria, which do the bulk of the work of turning organic matter into real compost, get more oxygen.
• It is advisable to choose a site for compost in a flood-free, shaded place, on the corner of the site. The width of the heap (trench) is 1-1.5 m (no more than 1.8 m), the height is 1-1.25 cm. In personal plots, composting is conveniently carried out in boxes.
• What is compost made from? All types of organic waste that can decompose more or less quickly can be used as materials for good garden compost. These are weeded weeds, post-harvest plant residues, mown grass, hay, straw, kitchen waste, sawdust, shavings, fallen leaves, newspapers without color printing, etc. Each type of plant makes its own contribution to the compost and enriches it with some nutritional element. Good compost cannot be obtained from just one material, such as straw. The mowed lawn grass (when there is a lot of it) must be dried before placing it in the compost heap, and it is also a good idea to layer it with coarser and drier materials, such as sawdust or fallen leaves.
• Let's list some well-known plants that are useful to add to compost. Nettle accumulates nitrogen and iron, shepherd's purse - microelements, chamomile and comfrey - potassium and calcium, yarrow - sulfur. Dandelion, with its long taproot, extracts calcium from deep layers of soil and stores it in its foliage. Alfalfa and mustard do the same for phosphorus.
• It is especially important to add nitrogen-rich materials to the compost. Nitrogen is necessary for the life of microorganisms that carry out composting. The more nitrogen, the faster this process goes. The best nitrogen-containing additive to compost is animal manure or bird droppings. In case manure is not available, here is a list of other nitrogen-rich supplements: bone meal, nettles, legume stems and leaves, and grass clippings. You can also use urine, dilute it 4 times and pour it over the compost.
• All compost components should be crushed if possible, this significantly speeds up the fermentation process.
• What should not be added to compost? This is, first of all, something that does not decompose - glass, plastic bags, plastic products, etc. Contaminated weeds turn the compost into a breeding ground for weeds and should not be added to the compost heap. It is better not to burn potato and tomato tops infected with late blight, but to compost them separately and for a longer period. The compost obtained from it can be used for those crops that do not suffer from late blight, for example, berry bushes (but not strawberries).
  Plants infected with viral diseases, as well as cabbage infected with clubroot, cannot be used for compost. They are destroyed in some way or removed from the site.
• Land additives. You must add some soil to the compost. Microorganisms that decompose plant residues are added to the compost with soil. In addition, the soil contains minerals, which, although in small quantities, are part of good compost. Earth and peat are also added to prevent the loss of liquid and gaseous substances formed during fermentation (decomposition of organic substances). When composting, add a mixture of soil and peat, or at least just soil (garden soil), in layers of 15-20 cm. Optimally, compost should contain about 70% plant residues, 20% manure and 10% soil.
• Mineral supplements. To neutralize the effect of acids formed during fermentation and to obtain compost as a good universal fertilizer, lime is added to it when laying compost (if it is not in the composted material). This is, first of all, limestone or dolomite flour, which increases the content of calcium and magnesium and neutralizes acidity (4-5 kg/m3). Lime must be added to acidic peat, sawdust, shavings, pine needles, tree leaves, etc.
• It is very important to add enriching additives to the compost layer by layer (see).
• Compost should always be moist! The compost heap (loose, stacked or in a box) should be kept moist at all times. If the composted material is dry, when placing it in a heap, it is gradually moistened with slurry, diluted feces (1:3), a solution of microbiological fertilizer (for example, Baikal_EM1) or at least water. In hot weather it must be watered regularly. This is also important for the reproduction of worms.
• To speed up and uniform maturation of the compost, shovel the pile 1-2 times in the summer - throw the mass with a shovel to another place nearby. This is especially important when using feces, etc., for composting, which may contain eggs of worms and other pathogens. The temperature of the outer layers of the heap is lower, so these layers are not disinfected. It is better if these layers are removed (not used for fertilizer) and added to a new pile. To speed up the fermentation process, the “burning” of the mass should be brought to a temperature of 60°. To do this, immediately pour hot water over the compost (60–70°). This kills pathogenic microbes, but the quality of the compost deteriorates somewhat. At the end of September, it is recommended to water the compost heap (box) again with hot water, then cover it with film.
• Compost is considered ready when most of the mass is completely decomposed and becomes homogeneous and dark brown. The result is a free-flowing, easy-to-use fertilizer. The composting process depends on the components, usually lasting at least 9-12 months. To incorporate compost into the soil covered with a layer of garden soil, you can use compost earlier - after 4-6 months.

The ratio of nitrogen and carbon in compost. Composting is a microbiological process and organic materials provide food for microorganisms. They are not indifferent to the chemical composition of the material that they must decompose. The ratio of carbon and nitrogen in the starting material is essential for their activity. It has been established that the most favorable ratio for the activity of microorganisms is within 11-20 parts of carbon to 1 part of nitrogen, that is, there may be more carbon, but within certain limits.

Materials with low nitrogen content (below 0.7%). They decompose slowly, with a large loss of organic matter. This group includes: sawdust, paper, tree bark, straw. It is recommended to compost them with the addition of nitrogen-rich materials.

Materials with an average nitrogen content (0.7-1.5%). They make up the bulk of compostable material. They can be used without adding nitrogen, in which case the compost obtained from them has little effectiveness as a fertilizer; It is mainly used for soil improvement. This group includes: post-harvest residues, weeded weeds, kitchen waste, and tree leaves.

Materials with a high nitrogen content (above 1.5%). They are used as additives to materials of the first and second groups to improve the quality of compost. Compost obtained with these additives is a good fertilizer for plants. This group includes: manure, bird droppings, stems and leaves of legumes, young grass clippings, all waste from the meat processing industry, fish waste, and sludge from ponds.

Compost Enrichment Additives

In order for compost to become a universal fertilizer capable of satisfying all plant needs for mineral nutrition elements, enriching additives must be added to it. Garden compost consists mainly of plant residues. If nothing is added to this compost, it will be an average quality fertilizer. If you analyze such compost, it turns out that there is very little nitrogen in it, not to mention phosphorus, potassium, calcium and other elements. It is impossible to get a good harvest with such compost. It serves primarily to improve the physical properties of the soil rather than as a fertilizer.

High quality compost should contain about 2% total nitrogen, while plant residues contain only 0.7-1.5%. This means that in order to obtain a complete fertilizer, nitrogen-rich substances must be added to plant residues. Optimally, it is cow manure, which should make up about 10% of the composted material. If you do not have such an amount of manure at your disposal, then the compost heap can be watered with a water extract from manure: 1 part of manure to 20 parts of water or urine diluted 4 times.

We will list other nitrogen-rich and more affordable additives again: young grass clippings, nettles, green mass of legumes, meat and fish waste, bone meal, bird droppings. Everything that belongs to the third group of compostable materials. The exact amounts of these supplements are not specified, and you will have to rely on your intuition to avoid overdoing it. Compost with a very high nitrogen content is also not desirable. You need to be especially careful with bird droppings.

It is very important to add phosphorus-rich compounds to your compost. It is advisable to add phosphorus not in the form of superphosphate (1-2 kg/m3), but in the insoluble form of phosphate rock (3-5 kg/m3). This is phosphorus-rich rock ground into flour. In a compost heap, where microbiological activity is very high, phosphate rock decomposes, phosphorus goes into a state associated with organic matter and becomes part of humus. The dose of phosphate rock is 5-8 kg per m 3 of compost. Fused phosphate has similar properties.

To enrich with potassium, use ash or potassium sulfate (1-2 kg/m3), but not potassium chloride, which is toxic to microorganisms. In order for the additives to be distributed evenly throughout the volume of the heap, it is folded in layers 20-25 cm thick and a certain amount of enriching substances is added to each layer.

For nitrogen enrichment and microflora contamination, manure, slurry, chicken droppings, feces, etc. are added. You can also use mineral nitrogen fertilizer, preferably ammonium sulfate, which is added layer by layer in an amount of 0.5% by weight of organic matter (3-3.5% by weight of dry matter).

Sectional compost

It is better to arrange 3 or at least 2 section stacks (in each section the compost differs in the time of laying and readiness) to make it easier to shovel it and so that rotted compost (humus) can be used evenly. In autumn and spring, the compost is shoveled (transferred from the first section to the second, from the second to the third).

Compost bin designs

Gardeners, depending on the availability of materials and aesthetic considerations, build compost heaps, stacks, and boxes (“boxes”) of different designs. There are a lot of examples, here is one example of a three-section container tried by the author.

Materials for one section: wooden blocks section. 40x40x2000 mm – 4 pcs., 20x70x1300 – 8 pcs., 20x90x1300 – 4 pcs., 20x30x1300 – 4 pcs., 20x40 – 4 pcs.; iron rods approximately 6x40x(700-900) mm - 8 pcs., wide boards (150-250*25 mm wide), length - along the width of the section wall. The cross-section of the main beam (40x40) should ensure free lowering of wide boards into the groove. Iron rods are painted with an anti-corrosion primer. The bars and boards are impregnated with a strong, hot solution of copper sulfate.
To construct 4 racks of each section, the bars are fastened with screws, as shown in the figure and so that the lower ends of all bars are at the same level. Screw the iron rods as shown in the figure and so that their part about 50-60 cm long is free (for sticking into the ground). Finished parts are painted with weather-resistant paint. Wide boards can be replaced with strips of slate (but you must cut it with a blower!!).

To build one section, all 4 racks are driven into the corners of a strictly square area of ​​1.1 x 1.1 m. In this case: the racks must be strictly vertical and at the same distance from each other, the grooves of adjacent racks must be aligned, the wooden parts of the racks must be close to the ground, but not touching it, the top of the racks must be at the same level. For structural rigidity, 4 cross-section bars are nailed to the top of the posts (along the perimeter of the square). 20x40 mm. On all four sides of the section, wide boards or strips of slate are lowered into the grooves, leaving small gaps between them for air penetration (if aerobic compost) - the section is ready. Similarly, 2 more sections are attached next to each other.
For the convenience of laying compost and shoveling (throwing it with a pitchfork from one section to another), the slate strips on the front wall of the section and the side wall (between the sections) are temporarily removed from the grooves.

Aerobic and anaerobic composts

These two composts differ in the processes of fermentation (fermentation) of organic matter. The first - fermentation occurs with air access, the second - without air access. The advantages of both are presented in the table.

In sufficiently fermented aerobic or anaerobic compost at a pH of 7.0, beneficial earthworms reproduce very well, turning the compost heap into a “worm pit.” Caprolites (petrified excrement of worms) together with decomposed organic matter, mineral macro- and micro-elements are the essence of soil fertility. A ton of such biomass gives up to 3 tons of additional and earlier harvest.

Aerobic compost

To prepare such compost, an area of ​​at least 2 m wide of arbitrary length is allocated in one of the corners of the site or outside it in a place that is not flooded with water, preferably in the shade. Organic matter is composted in a heap (or stack) 1 m high, up to 2 m wide at the base. It is recommended to lay poles radially at the bottom, and lay branches on top of them. In this case, it is convenient to aerate the pile by periodically shaking it by the ends of the poles protruding outward. First, a layer of up to 30 cm is laid that absorbs moisture (peat, sawdust, leaves, crushed straw). Then various organic matter is laid in layers 15–20 cm thick. It is advisable to chop the tops. Each layer is sprinkled with a layer of garden soil - thereby adding microflora. The waste is moistened with fecal matter diluted in water, adding ash to the slurry. For aesthetic reasons, the pile can be enclosed with mesh (metal, plastic) or wooden formwork (there must be a gap between the boards for air penetration). To neutralize the earth, peat and sawdust, they are limed. If the compost contains a large amount of peat or plant residues, it is useful to add nitrogen fertilizers or manure; however, in this case, lime is not used, otherwise ammonia (nitrogen) will begin to be released. The top of the pile is covered with a layer of 10–20 cm of earth to absorb the released gases. The compost should be kept moist all the time, but not waterlogged. During the aerobic process, it is advisable to bring the compost moisture content to 60%. For the winter, it is covered from above with an old film (for insulation). It is advisable to lay a 30–40 cm insulating layer of peat, dry leaves, spruce branches or reeds under the film, and add additional snow in winter. By spring, the compost is usually ready.

Anaerobic compost

It is convenient to prepare it in a hole (preferably cemented) 0.5 m deep. The compost must be compacted, covered with film and sprinkled with earth on top. If walls are made, they must be impermeable to air. The soured mass (silage) is ready in 0.5–2 months. Silage can already be laid out on the bed in a layer of 3–10 cm, adding a layer of soil up to 10 cm on top. In the soil, compost becomes an excellent food for earthworms after a month. And they are simply necessary for soil fertility.

Types of composts

| | | | | | | | | |

Garden compost

Most gardeners, instead of compost based on manure or peat (in modern times - they, especially manure, are a luxury that not everyone can afford), prepare prefabricated (garden) compost on the basis of self-sufficiency. They compost everything they have - plant residues, grass clippings, dry leaves, weeds (before seeding), yard and house waste, manure, peat, straw, sawdust, shavings, ash, soot, kitchen waste (soap slops excluded), feces , turf An important condition is not to use the remains of plants affected by diseases, contaminated with pesticides or treated with persistent herbicides. In particular, you cannot compost the roots of cabbage plants affected by clubroot, onions with white rot, potato, tomato, strawberry and other plant residues affected by clubroot, late blight, and nematodes. They should be burned or placed in a separate perennial compost heap away from the garden.

First, lay a layer of peat, leaves, straw or humus soil 25-30 cm high, and all the components of the compost accumulate on it as they accumulate. For “leavening”, a layer of 2-5 cm of humus soil is laid every 20-30 cm and lightly sprinkled with ash, superphosphate, ammonium nitrate, lime, and pieces of turf are laid out. pour herbal infusion of manure or fecal slurry. To maintain moisture, water with urine, slop, or just water. Important! The compost must be kept moist at all times.

The ripening period for prefabricated compost is at least a year. To speed up the process, it is necessary to chop the plant residues and shovel the entire mass, for example, moving it from one section to another.

It is better to make not one, but two compost heaps at the same time. Place quickly decomposing waste in one, and waste that is difficult to rot, herbs with thick woody stems, tops (especially those affected by diseases), rhizomes of perennial weeds, wood chips, sawdust, etc., in the other.

Pumpkins on a compost heap

In the first year, pumpkins and zucchini are grown on a compost heap (in a sunny place). In the spring, 1-2 buckets of humus or fertile soil are placed in the planting areas and covered with old transparent (not black) film. After a week, holes are made in the film (or it is removed), dry seeds are sown or seedlings are planted. Cover with non-woven material (remove it after June 10-15). Pumpkins grow up to 20-30 kg (2-3 pumpkins per sq.m.), and the compost is fully matured at this time. You can grow pumpkin two years in a row. During this time, the weed seeds in the heap rot even better. In the fall, shake up the pile and form a bed 30 cm high and 1 m wide for winter garlic. After harvesting the garlic, the compost is transferred to the beds for carrots, cabbage, and potatoes (a bucket per sq.m.). A new pile is laid in the vacant space.

Peat manure compost

Particularly potent composts are obtained by mixing peat with slurry, feces, manure, and chicken droppings. 1 kg of peat-fecal compost contains approximately 6 g of nitrogen, 3 g of phosphorus and 3 g of potassium. Of these, in the first year after plowing, plants use about 1.5 g of nitrogen, 1 g of phosphorus and 2 g of potassium per 1 kg of compost. Optimal ratios of components:

• for 3 parts of lowland peat take 1.5 (1-2) parts of manure;
• for 1 part of high-moor (sphagnum) peat - 1-2 parts of manure. Manure is placed in heaps in layers: first a layer of peat 20-25 cm, a layer of manure 15-25 cm on top of it, then a layer of peat, etc., ending with a layer of peat (at a height of 1.5 m).

Manure-phosphorite compost

Phosphorite flour is added to manure in an amount of 1-3%. In summer, compost matures in 1.5-2.5 months. Make 1-1.5 kg/sq.m of compost, depending on the content of phosphate rock in it.

Peat-liquid compost

Slurry is added to peat in an amount of 10-20% of the peat weight. First, lay a layer of peat 20–30 cm thick (the edges are made slightly higher to retain liquid). Then a layer of slurry (10–15 cm) and so further alternate layers, adhering to the required ratio. The top layer should be peat. The addition of phosphate rock (1-3%) and potassium chloride (0.5-0.7%) significantly improves the quality of the compost. Compost matures in summer within 1-3 months. Compost is added in an amount of 1-2 kg/sq.m.

Peat-fecal compost

Feces are added to peat in an amount of 30-40% of the peat weight. It is recommended to add phosphate rock (2-3%). Compost matures in 2.5-4 months. Add in an amount of 1-2 kg/sq.m.

Peat-manure-phosphorite manure

To 1 part of manure add 1-5 parts of peat. Phosphorite flour is added at 1-3% of the compost weight. In summer, compost matures in 1-2 months. Add in an amount of 1.5-3 kg/sq.m.

Manure-phosphorite compost

Phosphorite flour is added in an amount of 1-3% of the weight of manure. Ripens in 1.5-2 months. Apply 1-2 kg of compost per 1 sq.m.

Leaf compost

If you have a large number of fallen leaves at your disposal, then you should make a separate compost pile from them. This is explained by the fact that fallen leaves are decomposed by a completely different microflora than other plant debris. It's also a slower process. While compost from plants can be used within a year, leaves need at least two years to decompose. The rate of decomposition also depends on the type of tree. Some species, such as oak and chestnut, have leaves that contain a large amount of particularly slowly decomposing substances, so compost from these leaves will only be ready after 3 years.

From forest litter, which contains, in addition to leaves, the top layer of soil (usually consisting of leaf humus), compost is obtained of better quality.

The advice to burn fallen leaves is based on the fact that pathogens persist on them. However, during the long period of compost maturation, most of these pathogens die and, in addition, with this compost you fertilize mainly vegetable crops that suffer from other diseases.

To prepare compost, the leaves are collected in a heap, well moistened and compacted tightly. To speed up fermentation and obtain the best fertilizer, dry leaves should be interleaved every 20 cm with fresh manure and / or ripe compost, fertile soil, watered abundantly with feces or slurry. In summer, the heap (box) is kept open, maintaining a moisture content of 70%. Lime is added to the leaves to neutralize acidity. If you need to get acidic compost for fertilizing crops that prefer an acidic reaction, such as blueberries, rhododendrons, then lime is not added. A pile of leaves is covered with straw or old bags to prevent drying out and left for two years. You just need to make sure that the pile doesn’t dry out and moisten it if necessary. To make compost from the leaves, you can use a plastic bag with holes in which the leaves are tightly stuffed with all the appropriate additives.

Leaf compost is of particular value for sandy and clay soils in need of improved physical properties. On sandy soils, it increases water-holding capacity, on clayey soils, it contributes to the creation of a lumpy structure, and, consequently, improves aeration and water permeability.

Fallen leaves can be used for winter mulching of beds and to protect wintering crops from freezing. A layer of winter leaf mulch should be 10 cm thick. This mulch should be removed early in the spring, as the layer of winter-packed leaves retards the flow of heat and air into the soil.

Sawdust and manure compost

Sawdust is preliminarily neutralized and mineral fertilizers are added to them. After about a month, the pile of sawdust will warm up to 10-50°. At this time, manure is added in a 1:1 ratio. Thermal sterilization contributes to the destruction of weed seeds and pathogenic bacteria. 2-4 months after this, compost can be added to the soil (8-10 kg/sq.m).

Sawdust

Sawdust is used to loosen the soil and thereby improve its structure, as well as for preparing composts and mulching. Sawdust has an acidic reaction (pH 3–4.5); during fermentation, it absorbs nitrogen from the soil. Add npk (15–6–8) or at least only nitrogen to a bucket of sawdust, as well as 120–150 g of chalk or slaked lime; everything is thoroughly mixed. Instead of dry fertilizers, it is better to moisten sawdust with a solution of mineral fertilizers before adding them to the soil. To do this, dissolve the above dose of NPK in 10 liters of water, increasing it 5-6 times. You can also use animal urine diluted 8-10 times with water. A bucket of solution is enough to moisten 3-6 buckets of sawdust. Sawdust is plowed into the soil in the fall in the amount of 0.5–5 buckets per square meter (more on heavy soils, less on light sandy soils). When mulching, the thickness of the sawdust layer is 1–3 cm.

Green fertilizers

One of the cheap fertilizers is green fertilizer - fresh grass of early ripening crops, intended for embedding into the soil (after mowing - in the same area where it was grown or transferred to another area). In terms of their effect, green fertilizers are equivalent to manure, which is scarce in our time. They are most effective for use on humus-poor podzolic, especially sandy soils. It also works well on peat soils (accelerates the decomposition of peat). Herbs are also used for composts.

Green fertilizers can be sown after harvesting early vegetables. Early ripening crops are suitable - salad mustard, peas, fava beans, lupine, oats, rye, rapeseed, etc. Before the onset of autumn frosts, they are mowed and plowed into the ground. Winter rye and rapeseed are best sown in August and plowed next spring.

When choosing plants for green fertilizer, they proceed from the amount of green mass they produce. Some plants contain nitrogen on their roots and nodules, which they absorb from the air. Such plants (green manure) include lupine, clover, vetch, cowpea, seradella, peas, beans, triticale, etc. These plants enrich the soil with nitrogen, their root system deeply loosens the soil, so they are preferred. The soil can be improved by sowing herbs in the rows of the orchard, in vacant lots, and sowing green manure in crop rotation. Green manure is effectively used for potatoes, root vegetables and other vegetables. When caring for the soil, green manure gives a high yield of green mass. So. lupine yield on sandy soils reaches 4 kg per sq. m, which in terms of nitrogen and organic content is equivalent to the same amount of manure. 10 kg of green lupine mass contains on average (in g): nitrogen 45, phosphorus 12, potassium 17, calcium 47, magnesium 12. Green mass can be used for compost, for plowing and for feeding to livestock.

On an area of ​​10 sq.m, seeds are sown (in g), for example: narrow-leaved lupine 180 (to a depth of 3 cm), perennial lupine 45 (2–3 cm), seradella 50 (1–2 cm), vetch 100–150.

Lupine. They sow randomly after harvesting early potatoes and vegetables, usually in mid-August, at the rate of 1.5 kg of seeds per hundred square meters. When sowing is delayed, the number of seeds is increased by 20-25%. If it doesn't rain, water it. After a week, seedlings appear, and after three to five weeks it is already possible to dig up the bed before winter. 150 kg of this plant is almost equivalent to the same amount of manure.

Triticale. After harvesting the vegetables, in late August-early September, furrows are cut at 15 cm intervals and triticale seeds are sown at 2-4 cm intervals to the same depth. In the spring, when the plants reach a height of 40 cm (usually by June 1), mow them down. They dig trenches in the beds, put triticale grass on the bottom, and on top - a lump of earth turned upside down. Level the bed and plant, for example, potatoes (well-sprouted tubers). Although there is a delay in planting, potatoes grow well in such soil and even outperform those planted at traditional times.

Oilseed radish(Raphanus sativus. var. Oleiformis) is an early-ripening, cold-resistant (tolerates minus 3°) crop. It grows well on neutral and slightly acidic soils of any type. The yield of green mass is more than twice that of lupine, rye, and white mustard. Oilseed radish Raduga and Tambovchanka are used as green fertilizer. Sow in continuous rows from early spring (as soon as the soil thaws) until autumn, including September. When sown in August and September it produces more leaves. The seeds germinate on the 4-7th day, and after 3 weeks, when the buds appear, it is the best time for mowing. The mass is dried for a week, then buried for digging (30-40 days pass from sowing to digging). When cultivating oilseed radish:

• the soil is enriched with organic matter, its structure improves;
• the infestation of the site with weeds is reduced;
• the number of pests and pathogenic microorganisms, for example pathogens of root rot and nematodes, is reduced by 1.5-3 times;
• The contamination of groundwater with nitrates is reduced by 10 times.

Sapropel

Sludge from standing waters: lakes, ponds, old river beds, ditches (sapropel) - is formed as a result of the decomposition of plant and animal organisms, mainly under anaerobic conditions. It is a valuable organic and mineral fertilizer. Average composition of sapropels (% of dry matter): – surface layer: nitrogen 2.1 (2–4 times more than in manure); phosphorus 0.4; potassium 0.55%; – deep layer: 0.9–0.2–0.3%, respectively.

Sapropel is used both in pure form and in the form of composts with manure, feces and other organic substances. As a fertilizer, sapropel is used especially on acidic and light sandy and sandy loam soils. When used in its pure form, the sludge is ventilated with shoveling and frozen before application (so that the harmful oxide compounds it contains turn into oxide compounds). The dose for grain crops is 300-400 kg/area, for vegetables, potatoes and fodder root crops 60-700 kg/area. In soddy-podzolic and sandy soils, silt is added in an amount of 3–6 kg per 1 sq.m.

Duckweed

This is a small floating plant, the bright green leaves of which cover (around mid-July) the surface of the water in ponds and other bodies of water. Duckweed has the ability to purify water - it becomes transparent.

Duckweed rots for quite a long time, so it is advisable to use it as a mulch with a layer of about 2-3 cm. Duckweed is easily pulled out of the water. To do this, a long pole is placed on the water and pushed along the shore and towards it.

Liquid organic fertilizers

Liquid feeding with mullein

Liquid dressings are well absorbed by plants and give a quickly positive result. They are prepared from slurry, mullein, bird droppings, animal urine. To prepare top dressing, the dishes (barrel, tank) are filled with organic matter by one third. Stir well and fill almost to the top with water. Previously, there was an opinion that it should be prepared in advance and fed only after fermentation. It is better to use the solution on the day of preparation - during fermentation, nitrogen evaporates in the form of ammonia, which significantly depletes the fertilizing. Only dry organic fertilizers are poured in advance - bird droppings, old mullein. Let it sit for 1-2 days, no more, stirring several times. Immediately before use, the mass is thoroughly stirred and diluted with water: manure - 5 times, mullein - 6-7 times, bird droppings - 8-10 times. Top dressing should be prepared on the day of use, or at least the day before.

If necessary, mineral fertilizers can be added to liquid organic fertilizers before fertilizing: if the plants are pale in color or it is necessary to enhance the growth of vegetative (green) mass, then nitrogen, and to accelerate the ripening of fruits - phosphorus and potassium (chlorine-free).

liquid plant food

Organic matter - grass, leaves, weeds (before the formation of seeds), raspberry stems and other non-lignified plants are placed in a container (except iron), which is placed in the sun so that the mass warms up better. Large weeds are best crushed. Fill with water (leave 10 cm on top for fermentation), cover the container with film and infuse. Once a day, the mass is stirred to remove gases. It’s even better to add a solution of the Baikal preparation instead of water (1:100, at the rate of approximately 20 liters per 100 kg of organic matter). In warm weather, after two weeks the liquid will become lighter in color (fermentation has ended). Before use, it is diluted with water 1:5-10, and for young plants 1:15-20. Nettle slurry especially improves the condition of weakened tomato, cabbage, cucumber, and celery plants, and has a detrimental effect on caterpillars and pest larvae (this fertilizer is not suitable for legumes and onions). Periodically add a new portion of green organic matter and add water. Undissolved residues are transferred to the compost heap.

How to use liquid fertilizers? It is recommended to carry them out at intervals of 7-15 days. It is better to feed more often, but with weaker solutions. Water only rooted plants. If the soil is dry, it must first be soaked with water. If the plants are pale or it is necessary to increase the green mass, nitrogen fertilizers are added to the fertilizing. To accelerate the ripening of fruits, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are added.

Vermicompost from your own worms

Earthworms are useful - they not only loosen the soil, but also enrich it with humus. But, unfortunately, in the cool Non-Black Earth zone under natural conditions there are usually few of them in the soil. Reproduction of earthworms (as well as dung worms) on your site and preparation of vermicompost with their help allows you to easily solve this problem. Red dung worms (Eisenia photida) are better suited for breeding, which can always be dug up in a half-rotted manure heap or last year's compost. They differ from other types of worms by their dark brown color with alternating dark and light transverse stripes. An important distinguishing feature is that when they are picked up, they release a bright yellow odorous liquid.

The worm shed is set up like this.

1. Prepare a cultivator (substrate for feeding and breeding red earthworms) - use last year’s not fully prepared compost or bedding manure (but not fresh). The compost laid down in the fall will be ready for worm feed in April. EM compost is especially suitable, in which worms multiply extremely quickly. The substrate is placed in the shade in a layer of 15-50 cm in a heap, in a hole (trench) 20-30 cm deep or in a box and kept for 5-7 days to remove residual ammonia or hydrogen sulfide from it. The dimensions of the collar are arbitrary. A fine mesh on the bottom and sides will protect against mice and moles. Breeding worms in boxes (they must have slits for aeration and drainage) can be carried out in urban conditions (on the balcony in summer, in the basement in winter, regularly moistened) with the processing of about 0.5 kg of kitchen waste per day.
2. Collect dung or earthworms (from manure, from old compost heaps, under an accumulation of last year's leaves, etc.), put them in a bucket along with the soil where they live. It is better to collect in early spring on warm days. Worms are also harvested with bait. To do this, in April, make a ditch 10-15 cm deep and 20-25 cm wide on your site or in the forest and fill it with last year’s compost. Abundantly moisturize and cover, for example with a board. After 7-10 days, the colony of worms in the groove is collected, and the groove is leveled. The worms along with their soil are placed in holes prepared in the cultivator substrate. Before releasing all the worms, it is useful to first make a test - put 10-20 individuals in a hole and cover with a thin layer of substrate. If the worms die within 2-4 days, the cause must be found and eliminated. If the substrate is based on manure, it is enough to postpone the introduction of worms for 3-4 weeks, keeping the substrate moist.
   The optimal population of worms when populated is 1000-1500 large individuals (200-300 g) per square meter of cultivator area, although it may be less. The holes are covered with a substrate, leveled, and covered with breathable material (straw, burlap). The next day, the substrate is moistened abundantly.
   Optimal conditions for the life of worms are temperature 18-26°, humidity 60-70% (watered regularly) and environmental reaction - pH 5.8-7.5. Humidity is considered sufficient if 1-2 drops of moisture emerge from a lump of compost squeezed in your hand. Water it with water at ambient temperature, and let the water sit for a day. To protect against excessive rain, a canopy is made of transparent film. But in no case should you cover the very surface of the substrate with film (the worms may suffocate). Choose a place in the shade. Under such conditions, the mass of worms doubles every 1-2 months (during the summer period the number of worms increases by 20-50 times).
3. 3.As the worms process the compost, organic matter is added every 2-3 weeks (leveling from above), at the rate of a 5-cm layer per week. It is useful to add kitchen scraps, grass, straw, fallen leaves, etc. Paper waste, straw, etc. It’s better to grind them first, this will speed up their decomposition. The last addition of feed is carried out at the end of October (before the onset of frost). The population can be increased to 10-20 thousand per 1 sq.m., but to maintain such density you will have to feed the worms frequently and harvest them more often.
4. 4. As a result of biological processing of compost and manure by worms, the finished vermicompost is separated from the worms. This is done every 3 months, sometimes only in the fall before the onset of cold weather. To do this, the contents of the cultivator are poured in parts onto a table, etc. All the worms collect on the table surface under the compost. Vermicompost is used for its intended purpose, and the worms and cocoons (yellow, the size of half a grain of rice) are again placed in the cultivator. Before adding the finished compost to the soil, you can sift it through a 4-8 mm sieve, returning the unprocessed fragments to the cultivator.

Separation of worms is done the same way. The introduction of feed into the cultivator is delayed for one to two weeks, then a layer of feed 5-6 cm thick is applied. After 2-4 days, this layer filled with worms is removed and placed in a new cultivator. This operation is repeated 2-3 times (feed is added to the first cultivator, removed with worms, etc.).

Instead of separating worms, the technology of "creeping" heap is used. The initial pile is brought to a height of 30-40 cm. Then new portions are added not from above, but from one of the sides. The length of the pile gradually increases, and the worms crawl into a new substrate.

So the cultivation process continues, adding a new portion of food (compost or manure) to the technological worms. Dung worms do not tolerate negative temperatures. Therefore, in the fall, you need to take care of insulating the cultivator (with a thick layer of straw, etc.), or move it (the box) to a room where the temperature does not drop below 0°. They can winter in boxes with a density of up to 50 thousand per square meter. m. At temperatures above 3-4 °, they will have to be fed regularly.

Concentrated organomineral fertilizers

The industry prepares a number of highly effective concentrated organic or organomineral fertilizers - products of processing manure, peat, bird droppings, straw, sawdust, etc., such as:

• PREPARATION ZhTSKKU – for soaking seeds, spraying plants, for combined use of the drug with pesticides.
• For 15 years, the PIXA group of companies has been engaged in research in the field of soil science, agrochemistry and ecology. During this time, unique bioorganic fertilizers of the PIXA family were developed.
• Peat-humic fertilizer. This is a granular complex organic-mineral fertilizer, which is produced under the Togum brand by the Moscow company Flora-Balt in packages from 50 g to 5 kg.
• Liquid organic fertilizer "KOUD" contains all the necessary fertilizer components (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, macro- and microelements) in dissolved form in the ratios required for plants. The fertilizer also contains active biological stimulants of the auxin class, which increase yield by 2 or more times, depending on the type of crop, soil condition and climatic conditions.
• Liquid organomineral fertilizer Biohumus Power of Life - options for different types of crops.
• Soft concentrated fertilizers GUMI-OMI: Vegetable Garden series

Such fertilizers are enriched with humus, humic substances, macro- and microelements, and other important substances. They are highly effective for improving, healing the soil, for the growth and development of plants. They are also environmentally friendly (no or little nitrates), practically do not contain weed seeds, pathogenic bacteria, helminth eggs and larvae and other harmful substances.

Concentrated extracts of manure and chicken manure have many advantages compared to natural manure:

– low cost (3-5 times cheaper than manure);
– small volume and weight (one liter replaces 70-150 liters of manure);
– ease of use.

Manure extracts are used for both root and foliar feeding.

Organic and humic substances contained in fertilizers are environmentally friendly, promote the absorption of nutrients by plants, improve soil structure, enhance metabolism in plants, stimulating their development and growth. In addition, they prevent the leaching of nitrogen from the soil.

With the roots of vegetable crops and help them obtain available nutrients. Organic fertilizers include manure, peat, compost, bird droppings, humus and other materials…. The stimulating effect of organic fertilizers increases significantly if they are made into fine powder. [ ]

Types of organic fertilizers

Manure

This is the most valuable organic fertilizer. The manure of different animals contains on average (%): water 75, organic matter 21, total nitrogen 0.5, digestible phosphorus 0.25, potassium oxide 0.6. The quality of manure depends on the type of animal, its feed, bedding and storage method. So, when feeding pigs, a lot of concentrates are used, so manure has a high nitrogen content, and roughage is present in the diet of ruminants - there is more potassium in their manure.

The best bedding material for manure is slightly decomposed peat, but straw or sawdust is more often used. Horse manure on a straw bedding is indispensable on cold clay soils. It is best used as a greenhouse biofuel. Cattle manure is less warm than horse manure because it contains more water. But this manure is indispensable on light soils. Pig manure is acidic; when using it, lime must be added. Rabbit manure contains all the substances necessary for plants. Its value increases when mixed with other animal manure and bird droppings. Nutria manure in its chemical composition and physical properties differs sharply from the manure of other animals, so it can only be used in fermented form, or even better, added to composts. The compost heap can be periodically watered with a saturated solution of nutria manure, but to prevent nitrogen loss, it is necessary to add superphosphate (1.5-2 kg per 100 kg of compost). In the spring of next year, such compost can be added to the soil.

There are four stages of manure decomposition. In slightly decomposed (fresh) straw, the color and strength of the straw change slightly. When washed, the water acquires a reddish or green tint. In half-rotted manure, the straw becomes dark brown, loses strength and breaks easily. Dark aqueous solution. Manure at this stage loses 30% of its original mass. Rotted manure is a black, smearing mass. Straw decomposes completely, manure loses 50% of its mass. Humus is a loose earthy mass. At this stage of decomposition, the loss of the initial mass reaches 75%.

Manure at a lesser decomposition stage is applied in the fall, and more in the spring. It is not advisable to use fresh manure. If there is not enough manure, then it is advisable to apply it in smaller doses, but over a larger area, for example, in holes. On cold soils, manure is buried to a depth of 10-15 cm so that the top is covered with earth; on warm, quickly drying soils - to the full depth of the treated layer. Slurry (liquid part of cattle manure) is a nitrogen-potassium fertilizer. Due to the low phosphorus content, it is useful to add superphosphate (15 g per 1 liter) to slurry. This fertilizer is used for liquid fertilizing, for which it is diluted with water, as well as for preparing peat manure compost. Mullein (a water infusion of cow feces) is quite often used for liquid feeding, diluted with water (1:6 or 1:10). The solution is usually prepared in a wooden container. If the solution is left to ferment, then nitrogen quickly evaporates from it, so ammonium sulfate (10-20 g per 10 l) is added before use.

Bird droppings

According to the chemical composition, bird droppings are among the best types of organic fertilizers. Chicken and pigeon droppings are considered the most valuable, duck and goose droppings are less valuable. When manure is frequently applied, nitrogen accumulates in the soil in nitrate form, so it is better to apply this fertilizer in the fall, evenly distributing it over the entire area. But bird droppings are most effective when used in liquid fertilizers. To prepare the solution, the containers are half filled with litter, then filled with water, closed with a lid and infused for 3-5 days. Next, the solution is diluted a second time with water (1:10).

Peat

Peat contains few plant-available nutrients, but it increases the humus content and improves soil structure. The dark color of peat helps absorb heat and quickly warm up the soil. There are several types of peat based on the degree of decomposition. Horse is distinguished by a low degree of decomposition of plant residues and high acidity. Lowland is characterized by a high degree of decomposition and lower acidity. Transitional peat occupies an intermediate position between them. Peat is collected in swamps, then spread out for ventilation or placed in a compost heap. Peat is applied at any time of the year, even in winter on snow. But we must not forget that lime must be added to it. In the garden, peat is best added to composts, as well as soil mixtures for growing seedlings and protected soil.

IL

Silt accumulates at the bottom of ponds, lakes, and rivers. It contains a lot of humus, nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. After a short ventilation, silt can be successfully used on sandy soils (3-9 kg per 1 m²).

Feces

Feces are latrine sewage. They are rich in minerals that are easily absorbed by plants. However, feces located in cesspools quickly decompose, and nitrogen quickly evaporates from them. For better nitrogen retention, peat is poured into the bottom of the cesspool with a layer of 20-25 cm. Then the feces are layered weekly with a small amount of peat. As a result, not only nitrogen is preserved, but also the foul odor disappears. Before being used as a fertilizer, feces are composted to disinfect from worms, whose eggs die at a temperature of 45 ... 50 ° C.

Sawdust and tree bark

Sawdust is a cheap organic fertilizer that can significantly increase soil fertility, improve its air permeability and moisture capacity. Only they should not be added fresh, but rotted or mixed with other materials. To speed up the decomposition process, sawdust is piled up and moistened with water or slurry. You can mix them with fallen leaves and plant debris. It is useful to layer sawdust with earth. During the summer, the pile is shoveled twice, adding accumulated plant residues and nitrophoska.

Tree bark (waste from the wood processing industry) is composted before use. Bark with a moisture content of 75% is crushed into pieces 10-40 cm long, piled up and mineral fertilizers are added (kg per 100 kg): ammonium nitrate 0.9, urea 0.7, sodium nitrate 2, superphosphate 0.2, ammonium sulfate 1 ,5. The pile is periodically stirred and moistened. After 6 months, the compost is ready for use.

Green manure

This organic fertilizer is a high-stemmed plant mass of one- or perennial leguminous plants (spring peas, spring vetch, broad beans, lupine, seradella), as well as phacelia, buckwheat, sunflower and others, plowed into the soil. In terms of their effect, green manure is almost equivalent to fresh manure. Nutrient elements contained in the green manure plant mass, entering the soil and gradually decomposing, become available for subsequent crops, and organic green manure helps restore the soil structure. Some green manure crops (lupine, buckwheat, mustard) increase the solubility and availability of sedentary soil phosphates for plants, and lupine can use hard-to-reach forms of potassium.

Depending on the degree of soil depletion, green manure is placed on the site all summer or as an intercrop. For example, they are sown after harvesting early vegetables. Sometimes winter peas or winter vetch are sown, in the spring after flowering the mass is rolled or mowed and plowed, and the area is leveled and sowed. In the garden, green manure is sown in continuous rows (row width 60-90 cm, row spacing 15 cm). The planting depth for annual legumes is 5-6 cm, for perennial legumes - 3-4 cm. Post-sowing rolling is required, especially for perennial grasses. Green manure does not require care, but with watering they grow better.

Composts

Composts are prepared from various organic materials. Plant residues not affected by pests and diseases, feces, bird droppings, manure and other materials are piled in a loose pile (stack) on a flat surface, layered with soddy soil or peat. The basis of the heap is a litter of leaves, sawdust or peat with a layer of 10-12 cm. Periodically, the heap is moistened with water or a fertilizer solution, after 40-50 days the compost is mixed, and when its temperature reaches 60 ° C, it is compacted.

In summer, the compost heap is protected from the sun, and in winter it is covered with earth or sawdust with a layer of 30-40 cm. After 8-11 months, the compost can be used. Weeds that have produced seeds are composted separately, as they remain viable for about five years.

In the process of aerobic biological fermentation of organic components, which simultaneously serve as a leavening agent, a microbial-bacterial conglomerate participates: mesophilic, methanotrophic, acid-forming, thermophilic and other bacteria. When the substrate self-heats, the microflora changes from mesophilic to thermophilic formations. In the biochemical process of biofermentation, under the influence of the microbiological community, the transition of difficult-to-digest forms of plant nutrients from litter or manure into easily digestible forms of the final organic complex fertilizer occurs.

Notes

Literature

• Agrochemistry edited by B. A. Yagodin - M.: Kolos, 1989-655p.
• Efimov V.N., Donskikh I.N., Tsarenko V.P. Fertilizer system - M.: Kolos 2003-320p.
• Methodological recommendations for increasing soil fertility in the Belgorod region. Belgorod, 1982-740s.
• Methodological recommendations for the development of a system and technology for the use of fertilizers in specialized farms. CIF VIUA - Belgorod, 1978-39s.
• Mineev V. G. Agrochemistry - M.: Moscow State University, 1990-486 p.
• Artyushin A. M., Derzhavin L. M., A short guide to fertilizers. 2nd ed., M., 1984
• Baryshnikova T.N., Arkanova M.A., Koryukin B.I. Peat - a natural ion exchanger - a means for purifying the waters of the Urals // Moscow 1995 "UNITY".
• Belkevich P. I., Chistova L. R. Peat and the problem of environmental protection. Moscow: Science and Technology, 1997. 60 p.
• Grevtsev N.V., Gorbunov A.I. Use of peat and its processing products in environmental technologies // 1998, 220 pp., M "INFRA-M"
• Aleksandrov B. M. Peat processing // Moscow “Science and Technology” 1998
• Mamontov N.K. Beloborodov O.D., “Fundamentals of safety at industrial processing enterprises” 80 p., Novosibirsk 1999 “Izvestia VUZov”
• S. V. Kovshov Geoecological aspects of the use of vermitechnology as a promising direction for increasing natural agricultural potential (unavailable link)(PDF)

Despite the fact that mineral fertilizers contain more nutrients than organic ones, it is organic fertilizers that are safe for the environment and improve the properties of the soil.

Growing vegetables in your own garden is good because it allows you to control what fertilizers and in what quantities are used to feed crops. If you are committed to the environment and don’t want to feed your family “chemicals,” give preference to organic fertilizers.

Why organic?

The main advantage of organic fertilizers is that they consist entirely of natural ingredients. This means you don't have to worry about overfeeding your soil and plants with minerals.

Although organic matter cannot boast such a high concentration of nutrients as “chemistry,” it saturates the soil and guarantees good nutrition for plants during the period of active growth.

The application of organic fertilizers increases the effectiveness of mineral ones, so they can be used in combination.

Another obvious plus is that you can prepare organic fertilizers yourself, while you will definitely have to fork out the cash for mineral fertilizers.

When to fertilize?

The most effective application of fertilizers is considered to be in the fall, since during the winter they manage to become part of the organic-mineral complex of the soil, make it more fertile and will nourish the plants throughout the next season.

Spring feeding is important for plant nutrition. In spring, organic matter decomposes faster and supplies crops with soluble nutrients. This is necessary during the period of active plant growth in spring and early summer.

Digging requires 2-3 kg of organic fertilizers per 1 sq.m of sandy soil, and 6-8 kg per 1 sq.m of clay soil.

If you farm and have the opportunity to collect manure for fertilizer, consider yourself very lucky because it is a good source of nutrients for your garden. This nitrogen-potassium fertilizer is effective for 2-3 years on sandy soils and 5-7 years on clay soils.

What kind of manure is suitable for fertilizer?

Please note that fresh manure can only be used on empty beds during the autumn digging of the garden.

Rotted manure is applied under the plants. It is a homogeneous mass of black color. If individual straws are visible in the manure, this means that it has not yet been rotted enough.

It is worth distinguishing manure from humus. If you keep manure and allow it to rot for too long, this reduces the concentration of organic matter and nitrogen by 2-3 times.

How to store manure?

Manure should not be stored scattered around the site. The manure pile should be dense and always moist, especially in dry, hot, windy weather.

It is necessary to apply manure to the soil within one day.

slurry

To prepare slurry, manure is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:5.

This fertilizer is used to water the compost heap and feed all crops. This is an excellent fertilizer for which your garden will thank you.

Slurry is especially pleasing to cabbage and all kinds of root vegetables.

Compost is a good alternative to manure, especially if you cannot buy it or collect it on your farm.

High-quality rotted compost can replace mineral fertilizers. Of course, if you add it in sufficient quantities.

The size of the compost heap in relation to the area of ​​the beds is determined at the rate of 1:10.

What to put in a compost bin?

• manure,
• feces,
• plant tops,
• sleeping tea leaves,
• eggshell,
• fallen leaves,
• paper,
• soil,
• sawdust,
• weeds,
• tree bark,
• turf,
• decomposing household waste,
• coffee grounds,
• ash,
• river silt

Plants affected by white rot (sclerotinia), clubroot, wilt (verticillium wilt), hard nut shells, moldy bread, and citrus peels should not be thrown into the compost pit.

How to make compost correctly?

A compost pit is set up on the ground to allow earthworms to go to winter.

The components are placed in stacks up to 1 m high and about 1.5 m wide (the length is not important).

The pile is regularly watered with water or slurry to keep it moist.

The compost pile is covered with turf, soil or grass to prevent drying out. In this case, it is necessary to leave a hole for ventilation.

For the winter, the compost heap is not covered so that it gets thoroughly wet in the autumn rains and freezes in the winter. This will destroy pests and viruses.

To overheat the compost, a temperature of 60°C is required. If the compost is loose, it will heat up on its own.

Wood waste compost

Separately, it is worth mentioning the varieties of compost made from sawdust, twigs and other wood waste. They require a special approach.

To improve the quality of compost, mineral fertilizers are added to it:

• nitrogen fertilizer (ammonium nitrate or ammonium sulfate at the rate of 300 g per 10 kg of weight);
• phosphorus fertilizer (superphosphate at the rate of 1-2 kg per 100 kg of compost or 3 kg of phosphate rock per the same amount of compost).

Often compost from wood waste is prepared together with manure to improve its properties. In general, compost made from tree bark is comparable in quality to black soil.
The bark is placed in a compost pit in crushed form (pieces 1-4 cm).

Wood compost is used exclusively in the fall when digging up the garden. In the spring, the decomposition process will take over the lion's share of nutrients.

Bird droppings are a “golden” nitrogen-containing organic fertilizer, because in terms of efficiency it is much superior to manure, and in terms of speed of action it is comparable to “chemistry”. However, unlike manure, this type of organic matter cannot be called a universal fertilizer.

Disadvantages of bird droppings

The main disadvantage of bird droppings is that it is not suitable for all crops. Before applying this fertilizer, you should carefully study the recommendations for growing the crop.

The second significant drawback of bird droppings is its toxicity. When fresh, it contains water-soluble metabolites that can harm the plant (cause burns, cause disease and even death). In addition, bird droppings contain uric acid, which when broken down produces ammonia. As a result of an overdose, this fertilizer slows down the growth of young plants and leads to the accumulation of nitrates in vegetables.

Bird droppings are added at the rate of no more than 50 g per 1 sq.m.

Another disadvantage of bird droppings is that they quickly lose their quality. When stored in heaps, most of the nitrogen evaporates from it after 1.5-2 months.

Considering that the effectiveness of this fertilizer depends on its storage conditions, it must be dried quickly or composted immediately.

Bird droppings compost

Sawdust, straw, peat, crushed corn stalks, municipal solid waste, lignin, and turf are suitable for composting bird droppings.

For 1 kg of compost add 3-4 g of ammonium nitrate, 8-20 g of 40% potassium salt, 20-25 g of superphosphate.

Compost is applied for autumn digging of soil in the following doses: for potatoes - 200-300 kg per 1 hundred square meters; for other vegetable crops - 300-400 kg per 1 hundred square meters.

The waste products of these eared rodents are comparable in value to manure. Like bird droppings, rabbit droppings should not be placed under plants, as this can cause burns, so they must be composted.

It is permissible to add unrotted compost from rabbit droppings to the beds only on a cloudy autumn or snowy winter day, spreading it in a thin layer.

Heavily decomposed lowland peat is suitable for feeding plants and mulching; high-moor and transitional peat are not suitable for these purposes.

It is worth noting that peat is inferior in quality to the types of organic fertilizers mentioned above. It contains only nitrogen in sufficient quantities, of which plants absorb only 3-5%.

Peat has virtually no effect on the saturation of the soil with elements, but, nevertheless, helps to improve the physical properties of the soil: it makes it looser, warmer, porous, air- and moisture-permeable.

How to use peat?

When applying peat, the composition of the soil should be taken into account.

It makes sense to use peat as a fertilizer on sandy and clay soils in combination with mineral fertilizers. But light and medium loamy soils (with a humus content of 4-5%) do not need this.

On heavy soils that become crusty after rain, peat is used in combination with humus or turf. Together with soil for greenhouses, etc. peat is good as mulch.

It can be applied at any time of the year: both spring and winter. An overdose of peat is impossible, but it is worth considering that when fresh it is toxic, so it is recommended to compost it.

Peat-fecal compost

Peat composting improves nitrogen availability.

The compost heap is organized under a canopy or film cover. The basis of the heap is a layer of peat 40-45 cm thick.

Peat is regularly soaked with faeces. To do this, it is necessary to make depressions in the peat layer, where the mass should be poured, after which it is necessary to pour everything on top so that the liquid is completely absorbed.

Since peat-fecal compost matures slowly, it will only become ready for planting in the soil after a year. Such compost is introduced in the spring at the rate of 2-3 kg per 1 sq.m.

Peat is highly acidic, so when applied to the garden it is neutralized by adding lime or dolomite flour in the proportion of 4-5 kg ​​of flour per 100 kg of compost.

Ash is a cheap and very effective type of organic fertilizer. It works well in acidic soils as this allows it to be neutralized.

Ash contains about 30 elements important for plant nutrition.

Coal ash

Such ash contains little calcium, potassium and phosphorus, but contains about 60% silicon oxides.

Due to its high sulfur content, coal ash is an excellent fertilizer for horseradish, onions, garlic, rutabaga, radishes, mustard, and cabbage.

On the other hand, for the same reason it is not suitable for use on acidic and sandy soils. Since a high concentration of sulfur in the ash leads to the appearance of sulfates, the soil becomes even more acidic. This feature can be used to neutralize saline soil.

Ash grass

This tweed ash is high in potassium. Excellent ash can be obtained by burning potato tops. It contains about 30% potassium, 15% calcium and 8% phosphorus, not to mention a huge amount of trace elements. For comparison: the phosphorus content in straw ash does not exceed 6%.

Wood ash

Record holders for potassium content are young trees. Birch wood ash is considered the most valuable, as it contains a high content of phosphorus, potassium, and calcium.

In the ashes of hardwood trees (oak, aspen, poplar, etc.) there is more potassium than in softwood trees (pine, spruce, linden, etc.).

Sawdust

It is best to use sawdust for making compost, because... fresh, improving the structure of the soil, they simultaneously reduce its fertility. Bacteria that decompose wood actively absorb nitrogen and other nutrients from it, "robbing" the soil.

How to prepare sawdust for application to the soil?

Firstly, the sawdust is allowed to rest for about 2 months. During this time they will begin to decompose.

The sawdust can then be composted. This is done according to the scheme described above. It is necessary to lay out sawdust and other compost components in layers. For example, alternate: a layer of sawdust 30 cm thick and bird droppings a layer of 10 cm.

You can go the other way and saturate the sawdust with solutions of mineral substances. For example, slurry with water (1:10) or ammonium nitrate solution (40 g per 10 liters of water, add to 3 buckets of sawdust).

Before adding sawdust to the soil, it is advisable to mix it with lime (150 g per 10 liters of sawdust). If the soil has already been limed, this is not necessary.

It is advisable to add treated sawdust at the end of summer.

River silt

Silt from the bottom of reservoirs is collected in the summer after the water level has dropped. Any silt is rich in organic substances, but the absolute champion in this regard is sapropel (lake silt).

Sapropel neutralizes acidic soils and retains moisture in light soils. It is applied at the rate of 2-8 kg per 1 sq.m (spread in a thin layer or dig up the ground with it). If the soil is acidic, add lime before applying sapropel.

Lake silt is the only organic fertilizer that can be used for soil sanitation and reclamation.

River silt, unlike sapropel, can be contaminated with mineral or machine oil, and heavy metals.

Grass

Grass can also serve as an excellent fertilizer for plants.

If there is a lack of nitrogen, crops can be fed with nettles, legumes, clover, mustard, radish, woodlice, lettuce, quinoa, amaranth and other plants with a shallow root system. If there is a lack of phosphorus, potassium, and microelements, sweet clover, dandelion, horse sorrel, thistle, and other plants with long taproots will help.

Herbs can be composted, but there is another, faster way to turn them into finished fertilizer - make an herbal infusion.

Place the barrel in a sunny area of ​​the site, fill 1/2 or 3/4 of the volume with crushed raw materials, fill with water and cover with plastic wrap, in which several holes must be made for ventilation.

After 2-3 days, the fermentation process should begin in the barrel. The liquid should become yellow-green and cloudy. Don't be alarmed by the unpleasant smell - it's a sign that everything is going according to plan.

The herbal infusion will be ready in 1-1.5 weeks. When applied to the soil, it will need to be diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10.

This fertilizer can be used for watering and feeding plants all summer. But trees and shrubs, starting from the second half of summer, cannot be fertilized with herbal infusion, since it contains nitrogen, which inhibits the growth of branches and reduces winter hardiness. You can apply herbal solutions to the tree trunks of perennials in late autumn.

Organic fertilizers are environmentally friendly, inexpensive and effective for feeding plants. Be sure to use them in your garden to get a good, healthy harvest.

If you want to reap a rich harvest, you should not rely only on nature. Rich chernozem soil, warm sun and rain in an optimal ratio are just a few of the prerequisites. The application of organic fertilizers to the soil is of great importance. It does not matter whether we are talking about large sown fields or whether vegetables are grown in the garden. In both cases, the owners do not hold chemistry in high esteem.

Why is organic fertilizer considered the most valuable?

The decision to apply organic fertilizers is one of the most correct ones, since there is nothing better than natural fertilizers. After all, in nature, the soil produces nutrients for itself. Most often they are animal waste products and decomposed plant remains. This does not mean that they will have to be added to the soil of the greenhouse (although some do so). But the recreated product has the most approximate structure.

Organic fertilizers have the following advantages:

• Thanks to them, the soil is saturated with necessary substances. Fertilizers contain nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Those, in turn, influence the processes that occur in the soil. As a result, it is easier for the earth to process and absorb the required elements;
• Another merit of natural feeding is that it provides valuable carbon dioxide. It affects the entire condition of the soil;
• Organic fertilizers are the most budget-friendly option. Thus, manure is the cheapest fertilizer. But he is able to saturate the earth with all the necessary substances. If you fertilize the soil with it, the processes occurring in it will change for the better.

Types of organic fertilizers

Beginning gardeners often ask themselves the question: what fertilizers are organic? The most common types include:

• , which can be fresh (brought in in the fall) or rotted (brought in in the spring);
• humus– it is obtained by combining manure with withered leaves and plant roots. It is believed that a better remedy for seedlings cannot be found. This is due to the fact that it contains all the useful particles of individual ingredients. This is the best organic fertilizer;
• bird droppings– This remedy is used very carefully. It already contains a high nitrogen content. Therefore, in order not to burn the soil and plants, it must be pre-mixed with water. It is poured under the plants in an amount of no more than 2 liters per bush;
• all layers of peat- These are organic fertilizers for the garden. The best way to use it is in compost. It is impossible to do this in its pure form, since it is highly acidic;
• if the harvest is expected to be obtained in a greenhouse, then a suitable fertilizer would be l natural and turf land. The first type is obtained from rotted leaves, which are mixed with superphosphate. Soddy soil is created from the top removed layer of soil. It is folded and watered with a solution of bird droppings;
• prefabricated composts. They are also classified as organic, as they consist of different types. They may include peat, manure, fallen leaves - all ingredients are mixed and filled with water. The compost is sent to the beds as soon as it reaches the desired condition. It is distributed evenly and covered with sawdust on top;
• excellent nutrition comes from the plants. For example, it could be silt or its deposits. They gently tone the soil and help improve the future harvest.

Thus, the choice of organic fertilizers for gardeners is quite wide. Everyone will be able to choose the most suitable type for themselves in order to influence the receipt of a rich harvest in the future.