Model airplane paint. Painting and simulating various effects of the Tiger tank

This section describes the technology for solving the problem, in the form of representing the sequence of solving the problem by specific procedures, actions, techniques in the selected software environment. Technology takes the form of instruction.

Painting the model from scratch

+ modulation

OOO "Our City RU", Tyumen

Greetings to dear colleagues! Starting this topic, in principle, I know what I would like to show you. I took a model from Zvezda for experiments, set # 3535, a T-34/76 tank of the 1942 model. Collected it without any tricks, with this good old word "out of the box", that is, completely rested. The goal was not to make a replica tank (it is intended for a gift), even the tracks left these terrible rubber bands, what you see, after painting, they will still be pulled up to the rollers. Well, shoot me, I don't know and I don't understand how someone paints this together with the assembled tank. So, the tracks will still be painted separately. Oh, yes, all the same I hate drilled barrels and "glushakov", I drilled them. I also made one handle on the transmission hatch. Something all the same glanced lazily at the schemes of such tanks. On that, my finishing touches and ended. By color: I will paint, as expected, you can even call the fashionable word "preshading", and color MODULATION (color volume). How not to call it, the model should already look three-dimensional with preliminary pokars and this is correct. Since the following damage and washes will not hide the main volume, but will only improve the visible.

Preshading- a painting method that allows you to get rid of the general uniformity of the paint, add color nuances and give expressiveness and realism to the color of the model.

Dark (black, black-brown, etc.) paint is applied to the primed model with an airbrush along the joining lines, panel joints, hatches, etc., then in the process of painting in camouflage colors, the dark bottom layer peeps through the primary colors and creates an effect dissimilar coverage. Some places (jointing, panels) are darker, others (between seams and joints, inside the perimeter of jointing panels) are lighter.

The main condition is that the layer of paint with camouflage on top of the dark pre-shading should be as thin as possible and not too covering, otherwise the lower dark layer will be completely painted over and the effect of a heterogeneous surface will disappear. The technology manifests itself best of all when painting with acrylic paints, since they are more translucent than enamels and nitro.

Some modelers believe that using strong pre-shading spoils the model (it looks "checkered"), preferring technically more complex post-shading, with active use of filters.

The barrel was taken from the "Drgonovskaya" model.

I chose these paints for painting the model, the star is acrylic:

The first step, the primer, is usually made dark, I took a mixture of acrylic paints for it (it seems Tamiya). Any dark shade, greenish, brownish, is suitable here, the main thing is that black should be 60-80%. The model is completely blown out from top to bottom. The only thing is that the caterpillars are painted separately, also with a mixture of brown paints, I always paint the caterpillars like this, and never use black or silver. The ridges of the current are painted with dull silver at the caterpillars.

I compared paints with the same characteristics, "Akan" and "Star" - the result:

I had to lighten the star a little, and this is necessary.

Mixed paints, the star is a thick paint, you need to dilute to a liquid state, used alcohol and water.

You can compare it with the dark first layer in the picture.

I applied the paint of the main color at a right angle, here it is just necessary not to fill in the corners, this is how I painted the rollers:

As for the filling, I marked the places of the lateral blowing with an arrow, i.e., the paint stream only glided over the surface, due to the fact that acrylic paint is more transparent than enamel, a shade of darkening is clearly noticeable. I also applied the "vertical blowing effect" on the sides, in places where there may be blackouts, these are air intakes, etc. Places under the fenders can be ignored altogether, of course, if you paint with rollers. The bottom does not need to be painted.

On the third layer, I used paints:

Before proceeding to the next layer, you need to think about where exactly you need to apply the lightening. Here the rule is important: the higher the detail on the tank, the brighter it should be, the artistic look, light and shadow come into force. It is necessary to remember the horizontal planes should be lighter than the lateral ones. Selection of corners, if you look at the model, it should be three-dimensional. You simply cannot do without the use of masks, it is very important to accurately apply the adhesive tape to the corners.

the rollers need to be blown in only in one direction, lateral upward. And only the central part.

You can continue, lightening the body, I continue.

It will look very interesting if you apply a slightly different shade, which I did:

In my opinion, at the corners, you just need to make it even lighter, to the brightening green paint I added white, more ...

By the way, another tone of paint needs to be muted a little, with a light green tint

Completed in three stages, the corpus looks something like this:

The tower is also repaired before the edges are lightened, decals are stuck, adhesive tape must be glued carefully - the decals can be torn off, and this is what happened to me with the inscription "For Stalin". After the decals, you can lighten.

This is a tank ready in three stages.

He continued the work from the tower - this is the fourth and last stage before the filter.

Now it looks something like this:

Let's continue, the model was covered with enamel varnish from Tamiya.

They also turned out to be lightened and rain streaks ...

I diluted the oil paint with refined white spirit (low-odor), bought it at an art store.

... I squeezed the paint onto a palette (artistic), used brush number 2, with a reed type (semicircular end at the pile), when applying oil paint, applied the paint as follows: white areas in light areas, beige or yellow areas of medium tone, brown or dark areas ... The next step, dipping a brush in a solvent, poured a stain of paint into the recess of the palette - starting from the sides, carefully, slowly, I smear downward. Vertical planes are made from top to bottom ...

... I haven’t done any horizontal lines yet, here I think it will be enough just to slightly brighten the surface, and there is no need to indicate directions.

I applied the washes at once, and in some places brown and black, the MIG wash was diluted with a thinner from the same MIG. Without it, nothing happens.

It seems like I did a wash, and this is what happened.

Today killed 6 hours for chips, used oily tempera, primary colors, sienna and burnt umber. Brush number 2.

And a couple of shots taken in daylight:

The treacherous shine simply upsets me in places, well, I don't know, maybe the lower parts will have to be processed with pigments, but it's time to finish the caterpillars. From the last work, the hairs were just terribly enraged, I just don't know where they came from, it seems to dry in a box.

I will continue little by little, caterpillars. I blew them out with a mixture of Tamiya paints, which I don’t even remember, this mixture has been stirred in my bottle for a long time, the main thing is that I have determined for myself that I will never paint the caterpillars in silver and black. The color chose a medium between dusty gray and brownish shades.

For toning, I chose the following pigments from the moment.

I mixed the selected pigments and applied to the tracks with a brush ...

... the pigment fixed with MIG thinner for washes, it dried up, it turned out like this, after that, with a bristle brush, smeared the pigment in the direction of the caterpillars themselves.

By the way, after drawing a pencil, an interesting texture was drawn on the tracks, I liked it.

How I wanted to tighten the tracks, it seems to have worked, if it hadn't worked out, I wouldn't have posted it.

The essence is simple, in the ridges or whatever they are called, I drilled a wire in four places and twisted this wire between the two rollers, the wire itself was hidden between the rollers. That’s all the only thing that I really didn’t like so much the fastening of the vinyl track links of the star is just awful, but I couldn’t solder them better, and I don’t care.

It seems to have finished the model, this is what happened:

Material taken from the forum in Tyumen.

OOO "Our City RU", Tyumen

- your guide to the world of scale modeling!

Last night, when I started uploading photos of the first stage of work on the F-18F Super Hornet from Akademi to my Instagram account, one of my followers wrote to me. He asked me to tell you about how to apply a wash, traces of operation on the model of armored vehicles.

Before giving any advice, I familiarized myself with the level of his work. And I realized that here it is far from the actual practice of applying all these tricky things. It is necessary to explain the process of working on the model itself. So that a person can move from a simple, one-color painting to full cycle works.

It was the desire to explain the very sequence of the process that became the basis for writing this material.

Here I will describe the structure of the cycle of work on the models of armored vehicles. Without getting into the details of each stage. This you, if you wish, can do it yourself. It's important to just understand what and why goes.

Therefore, this material is intended primarily for novice modelers. If you follow (even weakly and poorly) all these steps in the suggested sequence, you will achieve an acceptable result. It only remains to improve the understanding of each of the stages in particular.

Perhaps this article will be helpful and experienced. At least just to get a glimpse of the process outside... Get a fresh perspective.

As a basis for the visual series, I used the assembly process of model B MP T-15 on TGP (heavy tracked platform) Armata by Panda Hobby in 1/35 scale.

ASSEMBLING THE MODEL

The first stage is the actual assembly of the model.

It is necessary to assemble the model as completely as possible. If there is a question about the painting of rollers and caterpillar tracks, you can do this at the initial stage. But you don't need to be too zealous. There is no need to paint elements that will not be visible after assembly. For example, the space under the side skirts at the top of the tracks.

PRESHADING

Pre-shading is the process of creating a dark color base for the subsequent embedding of flowers. First of all, the seams, joining elements are painted. And in general, all dark places. Those. those places that subsequently create a color difference and provide visual volume.

After all, if you paint the model without preliminary preparation, only using the base color, the model will remain flat.

Pre-shading can be performed both as priming, i.e. as a preparation of plastic in further painting work. For example, using colored acrylic primer. So it is separately. On plastic, or on the ground applied over the entire surface of the model.

COLOR MODULATION

Today, the actual coloring process has moved from a simple application of colors to the plane of a full-fledged artistic work. Games with flowers. Creation of a large number of shades that create visual volume and beauty.

The main method that modelers use now is called color modulation, or color modulation. Its meaning is that a certain sequence of colors is applied from dark to light.

This can be either mixing different colors for each subsequent layer, or using special sets of color modulation.

In this case, we have the application of the base translucent layer. Those. the layer does not overlap the dark areas created on the previous layer. Namely, it slightly covers them. This is how the first visual volume is created.

Then, by adding a brighter tone to the base color, a second, light translucent layer is applied. In principle, the choice of the number of modulation layers is only a decision of the master. If necessary, you can make at least 10 such highlights.

But at the initial stage, when you are just trying this method, it is quite acceptable to limit yourself to 2 layers.

It should be noted right away that a model painted in this way may look unacceptably bright, carnival. But there is no need to be afraid of this. This brightness, under the influence of the superposition of the exploitation effects, will go away, leaving behind a wide gamut of tonal transition.

Color modulation

APPLICATION OF CAMOUFLAGE

After completing all the previous manipulations, you can successfully proceed to the actual application of the camouflage pattern. This is done by creating paint masks. You can use both office plasticine and specially created compositions from AMMO MIG or Plastmaster.

After the boundaries of the camouflage of the first layer are laid out, we either close the non-paintable areas from possible paint ingress. For example, packing bags. Alternatively, paint the first layer gently, with light pressure.

In principle, in the coloring of a camouflage pattern, the principle of color modulation can also be used, successively applying several brightening translucent layers of color.

But here we will not complicate our work.

And just paint the camouflage layer 1 color. It is only desirable to make it translucent. In order to create shadow zones, change the visual weight and volume of the model.

After applying the 1st camouflage color, we perform the entire sequence of actions again. But already in order to apply the second color.

Camouflage application

APPLICATION OF SERVICE TRACKS

The model is painted. But consider that only the first half of the work is done. The second part is the process of applying traces of exploitation. Or simple weathering (from the English weathering).

In general, this is a topic for several dissertations at least. And in one article it makes no sense even to try to consider all the elements of this very exciting process. Better to grab The Weathering magazine set by Miguel Jimenez and see what it is.

But since we started talking about creating a model at a basic level using this particular model as an example, it is still worth describing at least simple elements of actions.

After painting, the model is closed with satin (semi-matt) varnish. If it’s completely pinned down, then it can be matte. But certainly not glossy.

This will protect the acrylic paint from the effects of enamel liquids used for weathering. If you do not apply varnish, then the aggressive enamel base will simply gobble up the acrylic.

In this case, the first stage of weathering was the sand-tone airbrush. More in places where dust and sand can accumulate. Less "in terms of area".

Then drips of dirt are applied to vertical surfaces. These are, first of all, side screens.

As the drips of dirt dry, you should start applying splash marks. Here we are using a brush and an airbrush.

If you have pigments at hand, you can walk with them.

Weathering in 3 stages

RESULT

For the first time, all these ritual actions are enough to dance with tambourines.

You don't need to bother with each stage separately. And execute the simplest sequence, get the first result. This will allow you to at least understand what it is.

AND MAKE A READY MODEL.

This I think is the most important. Bringing the model to the finished result. You can forever get bogged down in the wilds of some stage of work, never reaching the end.

The task of every modeler is the evolutionary path of development. Those. it is necessary to gradually, step by step try something ONE new. Improve understanding of some ONE moment.

Final result

And so, over and over again, gradually your models will acquire new qualities. And your skill will reach new frontiers, allowing you to do better and better every time.

That's it for today!

Good luck to you!

And wonderful models!

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One of the important roles in the design of prefabricated aircraft models is painting. Sometimes for some scales of models, for example, 1:72, 1: 100, 1: 144, painting takes the main role and here the most important thing is to make the correct selection of paints and apply them with high quality, it depends on whether you emphasize the merits of the model or not. In this article, you will learn about the basic painting technologies.

Consider the two main methods of painting prefabricated aircraft models: painting the models with a brush and painting with a spray gun (airbrush).

Brush painting

This method is considered the easiest and most accessible to everyone, both beginners and experienced modelers.

Paints

The most common type of paint is nitro paint. But this paint has one big drawback - it is a very pungent and unpleasant odor. These paints are suitable for work areas with good ventilation.

The optimal paint for painting plastic models is alkyd enamels. These enamels have a good texture, they are evenly distributed in a thin layer, giving the surface of the aircraft model a shine, and also have a weak odor. The drying time of such enamels is from 6 to 12 hours, this factor depends on the thickness of the applied coating and the ambient temperature. To create a different palette, the desired shades, you should stock up on the basic six colors: white, black, red, yellow, silver and blue.

Brushes

Now let's consider the question, which brushes should be purchased for painting aircraft models? You will need different brushes: large, small, thin, round, flat. Here the choice depends on the model that you will paint, i.e. the smaller the model, the smaller the size of the brush and, accordingly, vice versa.

You should choose brushes with even bristles, semi-rigid, hairy (for example, sable, badger, squirrel).

After each use, the brushes are cleaned with paint solution, rinsed thoroughly with water and dried.

And let's move on to the very process of painting over the aircraft models.

1. Preparing the model for staining... To do this, wash the model in warm soapy water using a toothbrush to remove the greasy layer. Then we thoroughly dry the model, for this we leave it in an inaccessible place to minimize the ingress of dust and dirt on it. Or use a special degreaser.

2. Primer... Before applying paint to the surface of the aircraft, the model should be primed. This is to smooth out various types of irregularities on the surface of the model, as well as to ensure that over time your paint does not peel off the plane. The soil should be applied evenly to the model.

If, nevertheless, some irregularities remain after the priming, and they do not suit you, you should grind. The aircraft model should be sanded with the finest sandpaper to avoid traces of the skin.

Then we repeat the priming process. The soil should be chosen in light colors - white or gray.

3. Dyeing... If, after priming and grinding the model of the aircraft, everything suits you, the surface is even, without potholes and cracks, then you can safely proceed to the painting process. One of the basic rules for applying paint to a model is to apply light tones first, and then dark ones. First of all, you should paint the lower parts of the model, then the upper ones. We paint over the upper parts of the model only after the lower ones are completely dry.

To achieve an even layer when applying paint, work in only one direction.

In order not to leave traces of brush strokes, you should dilute the paint to make it more liquid and apply 2 - 3 coats to the aircraft model. It is worth mentioning that each subsequent layer of paint should be applied to the dried previous one.

4. At the end of painting, leave the model of the aircraft to dry.

Airbrush painting

An airbrush is a tool designed to spray liquid paint with compressed air onto various surfaces.

Before painting airplane models, it is important to adjust the paint supply level so that there are no smudges or overdust on the object to be painted. If you are using an airbrush for the first time, you should, before painting on the most home-made model of an airplane, test the capabilities of the airbrush on any other unnecessary parts of the plastic.

For safety precautions, when using the airbrush, gloves and a respirator should be used.

So, here are the basic principles of airbrushing a model of an airplane:

• Before painting, the model must be thoroughly rinsed and dried.
• Then the surface should be sanded with sandpaper.
• The next stage is degreasing and drying the product.

4. When completely dry, the model should be primed and, if necessary, sanded again.

5. When painting an entire aircraft model, tape or masking tape to mirrors, headlights, glass, landing gear, etc. Apply the paint in one direction. After applying one coat of paint to the airplane model, let it dry for a few minutes, and then apply another coat. After that, let the paint dry completely, leave it for 2 - 3 hours. Then we start painting the rest of the plane.

6. Complex drawings should be done using stencils. It should be borne in mind that for each subsequent layer of applied paint we use a new stencil.

7. After finishing painting work, disassemble and thoroughly rinse the airbrush.

Summing up this article, I want to say that high-quality paint will come to you with experience. Performing this work, you should be patient, diligent and accurate - and the result will pleasantly please you!

PRIMER. Primed with a brush from a jar, with white paint. I decided to try it for the first time without a special primer, due to the toxicity of the spray primer and my intolerance to such chemical odors. It is written very well about priming with a spray here [link] For now, let's talk about priming with a brush.

Unlike spray priming with a brush is longer and harder.
- not as tight as spray.
+ dries faster (1 hour), spray - day
+ non-toxic (spray is best used outside the room)

The main thing is to decide on the consistency of the paint with which you are priming. It should not be too liquid, so as not to spread over the plastic, but not too thick, otherwise it will lie in a too thick layer, and as you know, thick layers later break off better))). So, be sure to dip the brush into a jar of water, squeeze it out well, and take a little paint on the tip of the brush. It is better to pour the paint from the jar just a little somewhere, onto cardboard or onto the lid, and close the jar tightly so that all the paint does not dry out.
I prefer to prime with white - all flaws and unprimed places are visible on it, but it is easier to prime with black.
Then we run the brush over the figure, we look - if the paint bubbles, rolls into droplets on the plastic and does not paint well, then there is too much water, you also need to squeeze out the brush. If it lies on the plastic, but does not roll too much, but covers it with a not thick, middle layer, then the consistency is chosen correctly. We paint and are not afraid, if necessary, to "drive" the paint with a brush back and forth for the most even distribution. We especially watch the grooves - there the paint loves to fill in thick layers and bubble). To do this, with a washed, wrung out brush, with its tip, we carry out additionally along the grooves in order to remove excess paint.
The most basic task of the primer (and the most difficult one) is to apply the paint as evenly as possible. At this point .. Depends on your patience and diligence. But be prepared for the color of the plastic to show through the primer at first - this is normal and shouldn't bother you. Worse, if the plastic does not come through - this will mean that the layer of primer is too large, and perhaps even slightly changes the relief of the figure. Ideally, this should be a single layer, thin, uniform coating (see photo 1).
If you paint a lot of figurines at a time, it is definitely better to use a special primer spray.

PAINTING. After priming, we can proceed to the long-awaited painting. And God forbid you, friends, at this stage to show off like me and neglect the "drybrush" method, that is, a dry brush, about which the Technologist so persistently writes in his instructions. In general, I decided that I was the smartest, and began to apply paint with an ordinary dampened brush. As a result, I got the effect of "smearing", as in children's watercolor albums. At least with the paint "Star" I had it. Then I squeezed out the brush, and then painted only with a dry brush, taking a little paint on its tip. For drybrushing, it is best to apply a small amount of paint to the tip of the brush, but often. Because let's remember the artistic principle - in general, paint is "put", and not smeared on the surface. In the end, we want to get a spectacular, painted figure, as if from a store, and not a work of children's artistic creativity of the preparatory group. I noticed that the embossed area on the plastic is painted better than the smooth one.
To get started, you need at least 2 brushes - let's say a three, and a thin one.
So - we wet the brush only once, at first, squeeze it out very well, and then paint, when necessary, dipping the tip of the brush into the paint. Paint in layers - carefully overlay each layer - first the main color (or 2 - which is the most in the color scheme of the figure). For now, paint over small details with the main color - we will select them after. (See photo 2). With each layer, paint the larger details first and leave the small ones for last. In total, you should have at least 3-4 layers of paint on the figure (although experts sometimes bring it up to 10). When overlaying colors, go from darker shades to lighter ones.
When the main layers of colors are superimposed (between them the figure must be allowed to dry), paint small details with a thinner brush (see photo 3.4).
If you do everything correctly, using the drybrush method, then do not be afraid, the paint lays down quite evenly and there should be no problems, do not be afraid to put strokes, you yourself will feel in the process how it is better for you to do it.
I advise you to paint your face and hands last (for maximum accuracy and to avoid stains). (See photo 5).
Also, quite often you will have to mix paint somewhere in a separate container - with the help of mixing you can achieve the desired shades that are not in the palette. For a start, you can completely get by with a basic palette, say 6-7 basic colors. Weapons and armor are best painted with metallic paint.

FIXING. After staining, it is best to fix the paint on the figurine with a special varnish.

Generally, the first model is usually not painted, so we go straight to the second step in the development of the modeler - to the moment when he first thought about the fact that the heap of "naked" plastic, decorated with "decals" is somehow not very beautiful ...

Part 1. Essentials

The very first thing a modeler needs to start trimming models is money. Much money. So much money. Regardless of what and in what ways you will paint, you need the following things:

1. Actually, the paints themselves (or enamels)

Paint is something that cannot then be dissolved or washed off with something just like that. The ceilings in the apartment, for example, are painted with water-based paints, diluted with water, and after drying you will wipe them off. Enamels - they can be washed off, and easily, with their own solvent. Example - watercolors, dissolve with water, and then wash off with water. Models are painted with both, you can not get hung up on this for now; later on in the article they will be, both, simply "paints", but if necessary, they will be highlighted.

On various forums, you can find fierce disputes "which colors are better", strong arguments are given, sometimes it will come to a fight ... Do not get involved in such discussions - firstly, if you have not worked with this, then your subjective opinion is only " will add fuel to the fire ", and secondly," every cricket praises his pole ", and every modeler works with those paints and varnishes that he could get and to which he had time to get used to.

So which paint should you choose?

If you have a small child in your family, then nitro paints will not work for you - they have a very pungent smell. In this case, you should pay attention to a number of water-based or acrylic paints. If you see the words "Diluted with water" or "Diluted with alcohol" on a bottle with paint - you should know that these are your paints. If you have an extractor hood and everyone is calm about the smell of the solvent, then you can choose nitro paints - they are easier to use, but they are worse washed off the hands. It is also easy to "burn through" transparent parts with nitro paints and spoil the plastic. Both are worth about the same.

Almost all models require the following paints:

• White
• Black
• Silver

The rest of the paints required for a particular model can be purchased gradually, as needed. Remember, under no circumstances mix paints from different manufacturers or paints on a different basis (nitro and water, for example) to obtain the desired color, the paints may deteriorate!

As a rule, one jar is enough for 2-3 models (if painted with an airbrush) and 1 model for painting with a brush, or 8-10 sets of soldiers. The model is average, such as an aircraft at a scale of 1:72, or a tank or soldiers at a scale of 1:35. There are also special paints for an airbrush, very liquid, but it is better not to buy them for now - they are not suitable for a brush; in cans, the paint is universal. Hence the difference in paint consumption - when using an airbrush, the paint is diluted, it "becomes more" and is enough for more models.

2. Ground

This is a liquid applied to the model that prevents the paint from falling off the model after drying. For nitro and water-based paints, the primers are different and cannot be changed.

There is one more nuance. If, when painting with a brush, you put nitro paint on plastic, then it slightly dissolves this plastic, "gnaws", and the primer is not really needed; then when painting with water-soluble paints, the primer is always necessary - the water does not dissolve the plastic, and the paint will collect in droplets on the surface. This phenomenon is called "adhesion", i.e. simplified "wettability", or the ability of something to spread evenly over any surface. If you don’t believe, then try to “paint the plastic” evenly with plain water. When painting with an airbrush, primer is always necessary, regardless of the type of paint - the paint lays down on the surface already "at the end" in small portions, and it simply does not have the strength to normally "eat" the plastic and "stick" to it.

3. Varnish

Varnish is necessary so that your model will delight your eyes for a long time, and you could calmly, for example, after a holiday and a prelude display of your achievements, go and wash the model under the tap, without fear of ruining the decals (decals) and paint. Varnishes are also nitro- and water-soluble. If you painted with nitro paints, then the varnish can be nitro or acrylic (water or alcohol soluble); if you painted with water-soluble paints, then nitro varnish can ruin everything, the surface will "swell" and "rise". In addition, when using water-soluble acrylic paints, almost every layer should be varnished - these paints are extremely delicate. Usually firms that produce water-based paints also produce varnishes for these paints, so be sure to buy.

Primer, varnish and paint are also sold in aerosol cans. You can buy for both models and cars - if only the color fits. They do not need a solvent, they are already diluted. But this is for extreme lovers with a big wallet - the consumption of paints and varnishes is large, and in the apartment, in addition to the model, you will paint everything that is "in the line of fire" of the spray can.

4. Solvent

Everything is simple here - take what is written on the paint. At the initial stage, this will save you unnecessary hassle. Then, when you have experience and a bunch of unnecessary paint cans, you can start experimenting, buy "third-party" solvents, etc. As well as for varnishes, manufacturing firms must also produce a solvent (sometimes called a thinner) for their paints. If it says "Diluted with water", then you can safely dilute it with boiled, or better distilled, if you get it. It is not recommended to dilute raw from a tap or a spring, after all, there is a lot of all kinds of salts, minerals, etc.

5. Flushing

Unlike the wash used by the modellers in the sense of "aging the model", the technical wash is a liquid used to wash brushes, tools, hands, furniture, etc. etc. after painting. As a remover, you can use the same solvent with which you diluted the paint, or you can buy a special one. If you painted with enamels, then you can wash it off with a solvent, and if with paints, then it is better to use a special remover. It is better to wash the tool immediately after the end of the work, otherwise then you will be tortured to clean the dried paint.

6. Container

As a rule, the colors in the jar are thick, and these jars are sold filled to capacity. To work with a brush, paint can be dripped into caps from beer or vodka, solvent can also be dripped there, mixed and painted with this. After painting, you do not need to throw away the cap - firstly, over time you will accumulate a palette, according to which you can select the desired shade for a particular model.

Secondly, in this lid, you can dilute the same paint again (if you try to dilute another, they may mix and get a different shade), and thirdly, if you painted with enamel and you have an accidental scratch on the old model and paints no, you can try to dilute what is left in the lid and "cover up" it. I also recommend going to the pharmacy or walking around your house and ask old women for glass medicine bottles. Rest assured, they will be immensely happy if you offer them a cash reward for each bubble. You, who buys paint (and one jar costs at least two loaves of bread), it will not be expensive at all, and they, in the modern world, will really need it. If you are shy, then go to the pharmacy and buy the cheapest medicines in the required container. At the moment, for the price of one can of paint, you can buy a dozen bottles of "Naphtizin".

Part 2. Choosing a painting method

The overwhelming number of modelers can be divided into two opposing camps - those who paint with a brush, and those who paint with an airbrush. We will not go into such heated discussions about who is stronger - an elephant or a whale, but let's try to figure out how they differ and what we need.

Now it is not important for us how we will paint - the main thing for us is to get a beautiful model, so that next time we will not be told “You are doing daubs again”. For the first time, buy a model that practically does not need to be painted - the set includes multi-colored plastic. Manufacturers who produce models of cars and ships especially like to indulge in this. If you see a large, beautiful, non-Russian box with a typewriter or sailing boat, then most likely there is multi-colored plastic, although it is better to consult with the seller. You just have to glue it together and tint it a little with a brush to heighten the effect. But you can say "I painted!" and continue their hard way in further improving the finishing of models.

Made? Got the consent of your family (moms, dads, wives, children, etc.) to continue the experiments? Moving on - we buy a model that needs to be painted ALL. FROM and TO.

When painting large surfaces, you should already think about - paint with a brush or airbrush? The first method is cheaper and more affordable; but the second is prettier, faster and more expensive. When painting with brushes, you only need the brushes, and when painting with an airbrush, you need an airbrush and also a compressor. Take a sheet of glass and try to paint it with a brush so that it is even, without bumps and streaks. Happened? Then you don't need an airbrush, keep up the good work. If it doesn't work, try again. Doesn't it work even after the tenth time? You are hopeless, you will have to buy an airbrush ... Or aerosol cans, for the first time.

Have you chosen what to paint with? If with a brush, then buy brushes, all sorts of different, tasty and sweet, squirrel and kolinsky, large and small, round and flat ... If with a spray, buy the colors you need. If an airbrush, then an airbrush and a compressor. In the last two cases, you will also need an extractor hood. Although the prices of both the latter methods will become equal by the end of the first year, and in the future the airbrush will begin to fall in price.

Part 3. Assembling the model for painting

First, we carefully review the assembly instructions. As a rule, it is designed in such a way that the model remains unfinished after assembly. How? Very simple - after gluing the last part, you can no longer paint in most places.

Therefore, we CAREFULLY study every detail and evaluate where we can climb after gluing, and where we cannot. If we can, then we glue, if not, then we paint first, and then we glue it.
For figures, you can glue everything except weapons, for armored vehicles - everything except wheels, tracks, boxes, shovels, crowbars, etc.; also first we glue and paint the cabin. As a rule, after gluing the body, it is no longer possible to reach the steering wheel, seats and pedals with a brush. For aircraft models, you do not need to glue weapons, landing gear, antennas - they are painted separately from the fuselage, wings, etc. Choose the time for painting the cab as far as you can: you can paint it separately and carefully insert it - paint it separately.

Each model is individual, so be guided by your experience, ingenuity and luck - you can always tear it off and remake it, there can be no unequivocal recommendations. But if you are afraid to ruin everything, it is better to buy two identical models, train at the first, and do the second, focusing on the mistakes of the first.

Part 4. Finishing the model.

There is a certain sequence to follow if you want to get a beautiful model.

1. Surface preparation

It is generally known that paint adheres better to a rough surface than a polished one. However, a rough surface on a small model will significantly impair its appearance. Therefore, before applying the first layer of paint and varnish material, the model should be made as slick as possible, and we will achieve the reliability of the coating in another tricky way, which we will talk about below.

Most modelers use sandpaper to smooth the model. If you will not buy skin in model stores, then take the M40 and smaller. If in model stores, then they will offer you a ready-made set of skins, it is more expensive, but also less headache. Take the skin, soak it in water and third model until you have rubbed off the glue seams and glue-stained parts to such an extent that they are not noticeable to the touch.

The skin should be changed from time to time to a finer one until you sand the model with the smallest one you have. If the model has a lot of protruding small parts, such as rivets, imitation of the joints of the sheathing sheets, etc., then you will suffer for a long time. This is not scary - do not hesitate to admit that you smoked one model for six months. Firstly, it will emphasize your patience, and secondly, it will emphasize the fact that you are thinking about modeling thoughtfully, and not a blooper. In the future, you will find a lot of good things in yourself, and your household will be immensely happy that you don’t waste your salary, don’t hang around at night, don’t cheat on your wife or just your girlfriend (once it’s simple), and your golden hands are growing. Well, or at least pretend ...

After you have sanded everything, the parts of the model must be planted somewhere (usually called a mandrel) so as not to paint your hands, and after painting, do not keep the parts until dry. Very rarely, model sprues are designed in such a way that parts can be painted without cutting them off the sprues, so everything that the eye fell on can be used - toothpicks, the same model sprues, ice cream sticks, etc. It is necessary to glue the part to these mandrels in the place with which it will then be glued to the model. After that, the mandrel must be stuck somewhere so that the part does not touch anything. For the first time, the mandrel can be put on the edge of the table and pressed with a book, and in the future you can come up with a board with a bunch of holes into which you will insert the mandrels, like pencils in a glass of a desktop writing instrument.

Planted? That's it, you can't touch the details with your hands anymore.

2. Degreasing

In order for the paints and varnishes to hold better, the model must be degreased. You can use everything that comes to hand - soap, fairies, gasoline ... Anything that dissolves fat. It is best, of course, to degrease with a thin layer of alcohol, but where can you get so much of it? Not sure how to degrease with alcohol? Take a sip, breathe on the cotton wool, and wipe the model with this cotton wool, in a thin layer. Yes, it's a pity that the alcohol ran out quickly, and the model is not even half fat-free ...

Well, after degreasing, you need to remove all traces of the degreaser - if alcohol or gasoline, it will dry itself, and if soap, fairies or some other kitchen chemicals, then you need to rinse the model under running water and put it to dry. The main thing is not to touch the model with your hands. If you see a speck or hair, brush it off with a degreased brush.

3. Primary priming

Actually, it has already been said about the need for priming, but it is better to repeat: "A primer is such a liquid applied to a model, which prevents the paint from falling off this model after drying." If you don’t want to primer, please don’t. Just carry out an experiment - apply primer on a piece of the sprue from this model, let it dry, and then paint the sprue and uncoated sprue at the same time. Let the paint dry, then try scratching it off with your fingernail. If there is a difference, then do what is best. If there is no difference, then it may be true that the primer on this model, for this paint, with this method of applying paint and varnish material, is superfluous.

Apply a protective coat to the transparent parts. As a rule, masking tape is suitable for this. The protective coating will be removed after the final varnishing (or the last coat of paint if you do not want to varnish it). Then apply the primer evenly to the model. If you planted a drop with soil, do not wash it, but wait until it dries and go to the next step.

4. Intermediate grinding

If you are not satisfied with the smoothness of the surface after priming, intermediate sanding is your chance to fix it. Take the finest skin you have and sand the soil. At this stage, the shortcomings made in the preparation of the surface for the application of the primer are already becoming noticeable. If you are dripping from the ground- we also grind it off. If you get carried away, and sanded the soil to plastic, then the priming operation in this place will have to be repeated.

5. Final priming

If you used intermediate grinding, then you just need to perform this operation. Firstly, with its help, you finally cover the entire surface, and secondly, you finally make sure that the evenness of the surface satisfies you (at this stage, you seem to imitate the application of paint). If the surface does not suit you (you can see the risks from the sandpaper), then either you sanded with a very coarse sandpaper, or you missed something during intermediate sanding. Troubleshooting solutions - Repeat steps 4 and 5 again, decreasing the grain size of the skin and increasing the duration of the sanding treatment.

6. Applying the main tone

Look carefully at the color scheme and figure out which color zones are larger (by area). This will be the main tone. The exception is light colors - yellow, silver, red, blue, light gray, etc. If the main tone is light, then the whole model is best painted with white paint (on it, light colors look brighter), and only then apply the main tone. The basic tone can be used to paint the entire model, provided that it is not red. It is not worth blowing out the model with one go, it is better to apply several thin layers. If you work with water-soluble acrylic paints, then after applying the last layer, you should cover the model with a colorless varnish.

At this stage, the risks from the skin become even more noticeable. If you don’t want to see them, repeat steps 4 and 6. If, at the same time, you again sand the paint and primer to the plastic, then you must complete steps 4, 5, 6; at the same time, point 5 is not performed on the entire model, but only in those places where you have reached the plastic.

7. Application of camouflage

Careless movement of a brush or airbrush can ruin the entire appearance of the model, so be careful about this operation. In fact, every modeler applies camouflage in his own favorite way, but there are a few rules that everyone adheres to. Here they are: first, light tones are applied, then dark ones; non-working (not painted) areas are covered with masks (anything you like - from a piece of paper and scotch tape to any special liquids). Also, as with applying the main tone, it is not worth painting the model at one go, it is better to apply several thin layers. If you work with water-soluble acrylic paints, then after applying the last layer, you should cover the model with a colorless varnish. If the camouflage is multi-colored, then varnish should be applied after each color application.

8. Final finishing

Here you can do what you want - assemble the model, apply decals, age, wash off ... There are no strict recommendations at this stage - everyone for himself, everyone builds what he wants and how he can. Sometimes it is more convenient to apply decals and then glue, and sometimes glue and then apply decals. But it's best to age afterwards - to age both the model and the decal at the same time.

The main thing is that if you apply varnish after all this, then do not remove the masks (protective coating) from the transparent parts. Otherwise, transparency may be lost from varnish, especially if it is nitro varnish. Although matte lacquer on glass is also not good enough ...

Part 5. Conclusion

If you have read the entire article carefully - you can do modeling! The most important thing is patience, and the rest will follow. Modeling - it is so, it takes a lot of time ...

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