How to glue a raincoat fabric tent. Crimean mountains

Repair kit composition

As a rule, a new tent comes with a repair kit with everything you need. At least this is a good form that most manufacturers adhere to. It includes repair tube in case of breakage of the frame and several self-adhesive patches for gluing cuts or just a couple of pieces of cloth and a tube of glue. The latter is preferable (why - more on that below).

If something was not included in the kit, it is reasonable to buy it immediately. Cut repair kits, although not common, are still found in travel stores. It costs from 100 to 300 rubles. Or you can assemble it yourself from any piece of waterproof fabric, plus buy a small tube of glue in the household for gluing all kinds of plastic materials: fabrics, Pvc, polyester. But if there was no repair tube, then finding it separately, and even the required diameter, is much more difficult. At least I hardly ever met them in stores. In this case, it is easier to immediately buy a spare section of the frame. It costs from 50 to 200 rubles. and weighs relatively little, 40-100 g. But if something happens, it will be easier to make repairs.


Repair of cuts on the tent / bottom tents

Everything is quite simple:

I must say, ordinary fabric patches plus a tube of glue, although there is more fuss with them, show themselves more reliable. They perform better in nasty weather conditions when everything is wet, dirty and cold. Where their self-adhesive cousins ​​sometimes start to fail.

Large cuts... If the length of the cut is such that the available patches are no longer enough, then they are made either overlapping, or you have to sacrifice a packing bag from tents(pegs / arcs). Fortunately, most of these bags are made by manufacturers from the same material as awning or bottom tents... There are a lot of fabrics, the main thing would be glue.


Frame repair

If one of the sections of the frame breaks down, the easiest and most reliable way to repair is to replace it with a spare one. We take out the elastic band passing inside the arc, replace the broken knee with a new one, after which we put everything back together. Total, we have a full-fledged arc in our hands again.

If we only have a repair tube in the repair kit, in this case:

In principle, in a hurry, you can not wind anything on the sides, but simply put a repair tube over the "fracture" and fix it in place with a piece of tape or wedge it with a toothpick. But in this case, the places where the arc presses on the edge of the repair tube will be heavily loaded, and secondary breakdowns are possible.

If there is no repair tube, you can try to build it by rolling tin from a tin can or even a beer aluminum can in several layers (alas, it is not uncommon that they are lying underfoot). If not, then you will have to invent a tire from some sticks placed in a circle or pegs with a V-shaped profile. Quite a cumbersome design, but, as they say, "fish for fishlessness and cancer".

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Wind / snow protection skirt Presence of a protective skirt along the lower edge of the tent. A skirt is a strip of fabric around the perimeter of the tent that lies directly on the ground. It can be either sewn on or removable. The presence of a skirt is extremely necessary when using tents in the mountains, in winter or just at low temperatures. The skirt will prevent snow or rain from penetrating into the cracks formed by the edge of the tent and unevenness in the established place. Internal pockets Internal pockets allow you to organize your space inside the tent. Inner tent The presence of an inner tent, which in some cases can be set up separately from the awning. Models with an inner tent are usually called two-layer. The outer layer (awning) is waterproof and strong, protects from rain, and the inner layer is breathable and very light. Single layer tents are lightweight and have a small volume when assembled. Their disadvantage is that condensation accumulates on the walls of the tent, while in two-layer drops they will roll down without penetrating into the living space. Water resistance of the awning (from 300 to 20,000 mm h.c.) The maximum height of the water column that the awning of the tent can withstand. This parameter determines the water resistance of the material from which the tent is made. For areas with rare rains, tents with a water resistance index of 500 - 3000 mm of water column are suitable. If the probability of rain is high, showers are possible, then it is advisable to choose tents with an awning waterproofness of more than 3000 mm in. Art. The value of this parameter can sometimes reach up to 10,000 mm in. Art. Among the disadvantages of fabrics with high water resistance can be noted a relatively greater weight and high cost. Possibility of attaching a flashlight The presence of special hooks or loops for hanging a flashlight or lamp. Most often, these hooks are attached to the upper center of the tent. Geometry Some of its properties depend on the shape of the tent. The hemisphere has excellent wind resistance, but has less living space compared to the half roll. Usually in such tents, the frame consists of two intersecting arcs. The half roll has a large interior space. In addition, usually a significant part of such a tent is set aside for a vestibule, which looks very attractive as base stations or for a long stay in nature. Gable and tent geometries are still used, but only in the production of very simple models or large tents (for expedition groups). In such a tent, you can gather in a large company. Non-standard models are those in which the frame structure can combine several types. For example, half roll and half sphere are used to make large two-room camping tents. Sealing of seams A method of sealing the seams of a tent. Taped seams reliably protect the tent from water leaks. Welded seams are very reliable and durable as they are welded with a special tape. In addition, there are tents that lack seam sealing. Basically, these are models of the lowest category. But there are also professional tents in which sealing is not required simply because they will stand above the level of rain (above the clouds). Diameter of arches (from 0.0 to 30.0 mm) The size of the arches of the tent. Depending on the required characteristics, the arcs for the frame can have different diameters. Accordingly, the thicker the arc, the stiffer they are, but at the same time less plastic. Sometimes arcs with different diameters are used. In such tents, the arches that take on the main load are thicker, and the additional ones (to keep their shape or give more stability) are somewhat thinner. Number of ventilation windows (from 1 to 12) The presence of several such windows in a camping tent will be highly desirable, since the size of tents often allows you to cook food inside and boil water. Usually tents with several rooms (see "Number of rooms") have a separate ventilation system in each of them. Number of places (from 1 to 20) The maximum number of people that can be accommodated in the tent at the same time. Number of tambours (from 0 to 4) Tambour is the space that separates the room from the exit. Many modern models are equipped with it, but there are also tents without it. The tambour is usually the area between the inner tent (see "Inner Tent") and the exit, which may also have a bottom. Small vestibules are used for storing things and equipment. Inner Tent Material The name of the material that the inner tent is made of (see "Inner Tent"). Nylon, produced in compliance with certain technologies (weaving, density, etc.), has the necessary strength and breathability. Polyester can also be used to sew an inner tent. It has greater strength and durability than nylon and is highly breathable. Cotton is rarely used in the production of indoor tents. This tent can be recommended for those who are allergic to synthetics. Among the advantages are also low weight and low cost. But a tent made of such material must be thoroughly dried before storage, otherwise there is a possibility that the fabric will deteriorate. Bottom Material Name of the material used to sew the bottom. Polyester is resistant to most acids and alkalis, to wear and tear, which allows it to be widely used in the production of the bottom of tents. Nylon is also often used for sewing tent bottoms. In the production of materials, various material processing technologies are often used. For example, Nylon Taffeta PU is polyurethane-treated to withstand a water column of 6,000 mm (see "Bottom Water Resistance"). Reinforced polyethylene is mainly used for the production of the bottom of budget tents. Polyethylene has a higher specific weight and therefore is used in the main production of camping tents (see "Purpose"). Tarpaulin is also a good material for the bottom of tents, as has a high safety margin. PVC excludes thread connection, is a good fire-resistant, moisture- and wear-resistant material, therefore it is also often used in the production of tents. Awning material Material used for sewing a tent awning. Polyester does not lose its strength when wet, it tolerates ultraviolet radiation and sunlight well, and has high heat resistance. Tents made from this material have a longer lifespan than nylon tents. Nylon loses about 10-15% of its wet strength, and is more sensitive to UV radiation and sunlight - strength decreases over time. This material is less resistant to chemicals than polyester. Membrane fabric has two seemingly incompatible qualities: "breathes" and at the same time has water-repellent properties. These properties are given to the material either by impregnation, which is applied to the fabric during production with high-temperature technology, or the thinnest film, which is glued or welded to the fabric. The combination of fabric + silicone gives tents made from this material significant advantages. These tents have a high degree of UV resistance, which is a significant advantage when used in high mountains. In addition, silicone coated fabrics are 2-3 times more durable than non-coated fabrics. Subject to the rules of operation, the tent, the awning of which has a double-sided silicone coating, can last more than 10 years. The usual tarpaulin is rarely used at the moment. Tarpaulins are heavy but inexpensive. More often in production, tarpaulin is used as a solid base with additional coatings that improve its properties. Canopy The presence of a canopy in the structure of the tent. In many camping tents, a rectangular part of the awning plays the role of a door, which can be unfastened and put on pegs, thus making an awning. Purpose Camping tents by purpose can be classified into high, mid and plain models. Highland tents are considered extreme, while midland and plain tents are subdivided into camping and trekking. Fishing tents can be singled out separately. Extreme tents are designed for mountain climbing and expeditions. The design of such a tent should be as rigid as possible to withstand the harsh conditions of the highlands (wind, snow). There are extreme tents for "Himalayan" and "Alpine" climbing styles. The Himalayan style implies the creation of several bases during the ascent, while in the Alpine style, stationary bases are not set up, and tents are carried with them. Camping tents are the most comfortable. They are intended for picnics, children's camps, camping sites. Such models are often equipped with mosquito nets, adjustable ventilation openings, in addition, they may have several rooms, entrances, vestibules. Trekking tents are designed for hiking or cycling trips in which weight plays a significant role. Such tents must be highly reliable and rigid, because often such trips last for weeks. Fishing tents are generally not designed for overnight stays. In it you can hide from the bad weather, relax. Fishing tents are usually compact and lightweight. Refractory impregnation The presence of a special impregnation that retards the spread of fire. To increase safety when using tents, some manufacturers impregnate the fabric with a compound that prevents the spread of fire in case of accidental ignition. The slower spread of the fire will provide additional time to take action to combat it or to get things out of the tent. Frame type The type of frame provided for in the structure of the tent. It is more convenient to set up a tent with an outer frame, and at the same time, the inner tent does not get wet, since the awning is placed first. The inner frame design is more difficult to set up, but allows the inner tent to be set up without an awning (outer tent). Tents without a frame are stretched on two posts or on natural supports (trees, etc.). Reinforced corners Reinforced corners of the tent. The fabric from which the tent is made can rip in places of greatest stress. To strengthen the corners, inserts made of durable fabric are used, double-layer sewing or additional stitching with slings.

Seasonality: 2 Number of places: 3 Dimensions and weight: Dimensions of the outer tent (L × W × H): 210 × 160 × 130 cm Packaged dimensions (L × W × H): 50 × 15 × 15 cm Total weight: 2 , 9 kg Minimum weight (without pegs, stands and packaging): 1.79 kg Materials: Outer tarpaulin: Polyester 75D / 190T PU 3000 mm Bottom: Polyester 75D / 190T PU 5000 mm Uprights: Steel Ø16 mm Accessories: YKK Classic single layer house ... For outdoor activities and easy hikes Easy to install All seams are taped Zippered entrance Additional loops on the ridge allow you to set up the tent without poles using external supports. For example, between two trees. Most of the entrance and the opposite end wall are made of mosquito netting. Due to this, the tent is well ventilated. Wind and moisture protection curtains allow you to fully or partially cover ventilation windows made of mosquito nets. Thanks to this, optimal ventilation can be achieved. Large overhangs on the sides of the tent and additional canopies at the ends of the tent protect against "slanting" rain. Detachable tie-down straps on the bag allow you to easily attach it under the backpack without additional attachment elements. At the same time, the tent can be taken out of the bag without unfastening the bag itself from the backpack (a prerequisite: the backpack must have at least two molle-type slings at the bottom) Guy ropes have an interwoven reflective thread. forum) To improve protection against slanting rain, the moisture protection curtain at the entrance has been moved to the outside. The curtain closes with a separate zipper fitted with a large Velcro strip. The new moisture protection curtain at the entrance is equipped with ventilation windows in the upper part, which are completely protected from oblique rain by the canopy overhangs. Thus, ventilation will remain even with fully closed moisture protection curtains At the front end of the tent, the lower corners of the moisture protection curtain are additionally glued to improve protection against slanting rain

Seasonality: 2 Number of places: 2 Dimensions and weight: Tent dimensions (L × W × H): 200 × 120 × 110 cm Packaged dimensions (L × W × H): 45 × 15 × 15 cm Total weight: 2, 13 kg Minimum weight (without pegs, racks and packing): 1.16 kg Materials: Outer awning: Polyester 75D / 190T PU 3000 mm Bottom: Polyester 75D / 190T PU 5000 mm Racks: Steel Ø16 mm Accessories: YKK Classic single-layer house. For outdoor activities and easy hikes Easy to install All seams are taped Zippered entrance Additional loops on the ridge allow you to set up the tent without poles using external supports, for example, between two trees. Most of the entrance and the opposite end wall are made of mosquito net. Due to this, the tent is well ventilated. Wind and moisture protection curtains allow you to fully or partially cover ventilation windows made of mosquito nets. Thanks to this, optimal ventilation can be achieved. Large overhangs on the sides of the tent and additional canopies at the ends of the tent protect against "slanting" rain. Detachable tie-down straps on the bag allow you to easily attach it under the backpack without additional attachment elements. At the same time, the tent can be taken out of the bag without unfastening the bag itself from the backpack (a prerequisite: the backpack must have at least two molle-type slings at the bottom) Guy ropes have an interwoven reflective thread. forum) To improve protection against slanting rain, the moisture protection curtain at the entrance has been moved to the outside. The curtain closes with a separate zipper fitted with a large Velcro strip. The new moisture protection curtain at the entrance is equipped with ventilation windows in the upper part, which are completely protected from oblique rain by the canopy overhangs. Thus, ventilation will remain even with fully closed moisture protection curtains At the front end of the tent, the lower corners of the moisture protection curtain are additionally glued to improve protection against slanting rain

A versatile dome-shaped hiking tent. Instruction for the tent BONZER 2 Features good aerodynamics easy to set up awning and the inner tent can be installed at the same time the possibility of installing an awning without an inner tent two tambour entrances are duplicated with a mosquito net mesh pockets for small items hanging shelf two ventilation windows, adjustable from the inside Applications: mountain, hiking , outdoor activities. General characteristics Purpose: extreme Inner tent: yes Number of places: 2 Frame type: external Geometry: hemisphere Construction Number of entrances / rooms: 2/1 Number of vestibules: 2 Number of ventilation windows: 2 Windows: no Internal pockets: yes Storm guards: yes Canopy : no Hanging shelves: yes Possibility of mounting a flashlight: yes Protection Water resistance of the awning / bottom: 3000/5000 mm h.c. Seam sealing: glued Wind / snow skirt: no Mosquito net: yes UV protection: yes Materials Awning material: polyester (75D Taffeta 185T PU) Bottom material: nylon (70D Taffeta 190T PU) Inner tent material: nylon (70D Taffeta 190T WR ) Material of arches: aluminum Diameter of arches: 11 mm / 9.5 mm Dimensions and weight Dimensions of the outer tent (LxWxH): 236x225x110 cm Dimensions of the inner tent (LxWxH): 210x126x105 cm Weight: 3.7 kg Additional information: color: blue light, green light, green dark Terminology: Weight (0.0 to 68.0 kg) The lightest tents weigh from 0.8 to 2 kg. These are mainly trekking and extreme tents designed for one or two travelers. The heaviest are camping tents, as these models are often designed for a group of 4-6 people or more. Some models weigh 60 - 70 kg. These tents can accommodate up to 20 people (for more details see "Number of places"). Wind / snow protection skirt Presence of a protective skirt along the lower edge of the tent. A skirt is a strip of fabric around the perimeter of the tent that lies directly on the ground. It can be either sewn on or removable. The presence of a skirt is extremely necessary when using tents in the mountains, in winter or just at low temperatures. The skirt will prevent snow or rain from penetrating into the cracks formed by the edge of the tent and unevenness in the established place. Internal pockets Internal pockets allow you to organize your space inside the tent. Inner tent The presence of an inner tent, which in some cases can be set up separately from the awning. Models with an inner tent are usually called two-layer. The outer layer (awning) is waterproof and strong, protects from rain, and the inner layer is breathable and very light. Single layer tents are lightweight and have a small volume when assembled. Their disadvantage is that condensation accumulates on the walls of the tent, while in two-layer drops they will roll down without penetrating into the living space. Water resistance of the awning (from 300 to 20,000 mm h.c.) The maximum height of the water column that the awning of the tent can withstand. This parameter determines the water resistance of the material from which the tent is made. For areas with rare rains, tents with a water resistance index of 500 - 3000 mm of water column are suitable. If the probability of rain is high, showers are possible, then it is advisable to choose tents with an awning waterproofness of more than 3000 mm in. Art. The value of this parameter can sometimes reach up to 10,000 mm in. Art. Among the disadvantages of fabrics with high water resistance can be noted a relatively greater weight and high cost. Possibility of attaching a flashlight The presence of special hooks or loops for hanging a flashlight or lamp. Most often, these hooks are attached to the upper center of the tent. Geometry Some of its properties depend on the shape of the tent. The hemisphere has excellent wind resistance, but has less living space compared to the half roll. Usually in such tents, the frame consists of two intersecting arcs. The half roll has a large interior space. In addition, usually a significant part of such a tent is set aside for a vestibule, which looks very attractive as base stations or for a long stay in nature. Gable and tent geometries are still used, but only in the production of very simple models or large tents (for expedition groups). In such a tent, you can gather in a large company. Non-standard models are those in which the frame structure can combine several types. For example, half roll and half sphere are used to make large two-room camping tents. Sealing of seams A method of sealing the seams of a tent. Taped seams reliably protect the tent from water leaks. Welded seams are very reliable and durable as they are welded with a special tape. In addition, there are tents that lack seam sealing. Basically, these are models of the lowest category. But there are also professional tents in which sealing is not required simply because they will stand above the level of rain (above the clouds). Diameter of arches (from 0.0 to 30.0 mm) The size of the arches of the tent. Depending on the required characteristics, the arcs for the frame can have different diameters. Accordingly, the thicker the arc, the stiffer they are, but at the same time less plastic. Sometimes arcs with different diameters are used. In such tents, the arches that take on the main load are thicker, and the additional ones (to keep their shape or give more stability) are somewhat thinner. Number of ventilation windows (from 1 to 12) The presence of several such windows in a camping tent will be highly desirable, since the size of tents often allows you to cook food inside and boil water. Usually tents with several rooms (see "Number of rooms") have a separate ventilation system in each of them. Number of places (from 1 to 20) The maximum number of people that can be accommodated in the tent at the same time. Number of tambours (from 0 to 4) Tambour is the space that separates the room from the exit. Many modern models are equipped with it, but there are also tents without it. The tambour is usually the area between the inner tent (see "Inner Tent") and the exit, which may also have a bottom. Small vestibules are used for storing things and equipment. Inner Tent Material The name of the material that the inner tent is made of (see "Inner Tent"). Nylon, produced in compliance with certain technologies (weaving, density, etc.), has the necessary strength and breathability. Polyester can also be used to sew an inner tent. It has greater strength and durability than nylon and is highly breathable. Cotton is rarely used in the production of indoor tents. This tent can be recommended for those who are allergic to synthetics. Among the advantages are also low weight and low cost. But a tent made of such material must be thoroughly dried before storage, otherwise there is a possibility that the fabric will deteriorate. Bottom Material Name of the material used to sew the bottom. Polyester is resistant to most acids and alkalis, to wear and tear, which allows it to be widely used in the production of the bottom of tents. Nylon is also often used for sewing tent bottoms. In the production of materials, various material processing technologies are often used. For example, Nylon Taffeta PU is polyurethane-treated to withstand a water column of 6,000 mm (see "Bottom Water Resistance"). Reinforced polyethylene is mainly used for the production of the bottom of budget tents. Polyethylene has a higher specific weight and therefore is used in the main production of camping tents (see "Purpose"). Tarpaulin is also a good material for the bottom of tents, as has a high safety margin. PVC excludes thread connection, is a good fire-resistant, moisture- and wear-resistant material, therefore it is also often used in the production of tents. Awning material Material used for sewing a tent awning. Polyester does not lose its strength when wet, it tolerates ultraviolet radiation and sunlight well, and has high heat resistance. Tents made from this material have a longer lifespan than nylon tents. Nylon loses about 10-15% of its wet strength, and is more sensitive to UV radiation and sunlight - strength decreases over time. This material is less resistant to chemicals than polyester. Membrane fabric has two seemingly incompatible qualities: "breathes" and at the same time has water-repellent properties. These properties are given to the material either by impregnation, which is applied to the fabric during production with high-temperature technology, or the thinnest film, which is glued or welded to the fabric. The combination of fabric + silicone gives tents made from this material significant advantages. These tents have a high degree of UV resistance, which is a significant advantage when used in high mountains. In addition, silicone coated fabrics are 2-3 times more durable than non-coated fabrics. Subject to the rules of operation, the tent, the awning of which has a double-sided silicone coating, can last more than 10 years. The usual tarpaulin is rarely used at the moment. Tarpaulins are heavy but inexpensive. More often in production, tarpaulin is used as a solid base with additional coatings that improve its properties. Canopy The presence of a canopy in the structure of the tent. In many camping tents, a rectangular part of the awning plays the role of a door, which can be unfastened and put on pegs, thus making an awning. Purpose Camping tents by purpose can be classified into high, mid and plain models. Highland tents are considered extreme, while midland and plain tents are subdivided into camping and trekking. Fishing tents can be singled out separately. Extreme tents are designed for mountain climbing and expeditions. The design of such a tent should be as rigid as possible to withstand the harsh conditions of the highlands (wind, snow). There are extreme tents for "Himalayan" and "Alpine" climbing styles. The Himalayan style implies the creation of several bases during the ascent, while in the Alpine style, stationary bases are not set up, and tents are carried with them. Camping tents are the most comfortable. They are intended for picnics, children's camps, camping sites. Such models are often equipped with mosquito nets, adjustable ventilation openings, in addition, they may have several rooms, entrances, vestibules. Trekking tents are designed for hiking or cycling trips in which weight plays a significant role. Such tents must be highly reliable and rigid, because often such trips last for weeks. Fishing tents are generally not designed for overnight stays. In it you can hide from the bad weather, relax. Fishing tents are usually compact and lightweight. Hanging shelves Hanging shelves are available. In some tents you can find special hooks or loops designed for hanging shelves (they can be either included with the tent or purchased separately). Frame type The type of frame provided for in the structure of the tent. It is more convenient to set up a tent with an outer frame, and at the same time, the inner tent does not get wet, since the awning is placed first. The inner frame design is more difficult to set up, but allows the inner tent to be set up without an awning (outer tent). Tents without a frame are stretched on two posts or on natural supports (trees, etc.). Storm guy lines The presence of special guy lines. Due to the larger number (compared to conventional tents) and a certain fastening scheme, such guy wires provide a high level of rigidity of the frame, which is necessary in case of stormy gusts of wind.

Seasonality: 3 Number of places: 2 Number of arches: 2 Dimensions and weight: Dimensions of the outer tent, awning (L × W × H): 350 × 135 × 100 cm Dimensions of the berth (L × W × H): 200 × 120 × 90 cm Packaged dimensions (L × W × H): 48 × 19 × 19 cm Total weight: 2.99 kg Minimum weight (without cover and pegs): 2.73 kg Materials: Outer tarpaulin: Polyester 75D / 190T PU 5000 mm Inner tent: Polyester 210T R / SW / R Bottom: Polyester 190T PU 00 mm W / R Poles: Aluminum alloy 7001 T6 Ø8.5 mm Accessories: Duraflex Comfortable double camping tent on outer arches Half roll design on two outer arches with corner elements. Due to this, the inner volume is maximally comfortable Two entrances, two vestibules The entrance of the inner tent is duplicated with a mosquito net Thanks to the large ventilation holes above the entrances, the tent has good flow ventilation (in the new version, the canopies do not have to be stretched) quickly set up a tent even in adverse weather conditions Storm guards Guy ropes have a reflective thread woven in

Seasonality: 3 Number of seats: 1-2 Number of arches: 2 Dimensions and weight: Dimensions of the outer tent, awning (L × W × H): 220 × 180 × 88 cm Dimensions of the berth (L × W × H): 210 × 100 × 83 cm Packaged dimensions (L × W × H): 45 × 15 × 15 cm Vestibule depth: 70 cm Total weight: 2.44 kg Minimum weight: 2.2 kg (indicated on the bag) Materials: External awning: Polyester 75D / 190T PU 5000 mm Inner tent: Polyester 210T R / SW / R Bottom: Polyester 190T PU 00 mm W / R Poles: Aluminum alloy 7001 T6 Ø 9.5 mm Accessories: Duraflex Universal tent for 1-2 people on the outside arches Easy to install Due to the asymmetrical design and arches with curved elements, the tent has not only a comfortable sleeping compartment, but also a fairly spacious vestibule Awning and a tent can be installed simultaneously Possibility to install a separate awning without an inner tent The entrance of the inner tent is duplicated with a mosquito net. good protection against rain Storm guards Pockets for small items in the inner tent Awning and bottom seams are glued Color-coded arcs Guy ropes are woven with reflective thread

Dimensions and weight: Awning dimensions (L × W × H): 305 × 305 × 210 cm Packaged dimensions (L × W × H): 56 × 26 × 20 cm Total weight: 7.81 kg Minimum weight: 7, 17 kg Materials: Awning material: Polyester 75D / 190T PU 3000 mm Bars: F / G POLE Ø11 mm Fittings: YKK Camping awning with one entrance for comfortable outdoor recreation In the rain, the awning is closed by folding walls on the sides and internal curtains on the entrance side Fine mesh and perimeter skirt protects against insects from entering Double storm braces along the edges of the awning significantly increase wind resistance

Seasonality: 3 Number of seats: 2 Number of arches: 1 Dimensions and weight: Dimensions of the outer tent, awning (L × W × H): 315х160х105 cm Dimensions of the berth (L × W × H): 240х110х95 cm Packaged dimensions (L × W × H): 50x17x13 cm Total weight: 2.2 kg Minimum weight (without cover and pegs): 1.81 kg Materials: Outer tent: Polyester 75D / 190T PU 00 mm Inner tent: Polyester R / S 68D / 210T W / R Bottom: Polyester 100D PU 10000 mm Arcs: Aluminum alloy 7001 T6 Ø8.5 mm Fittings: Duraflex Lightweight universal scarf for 1-2 people on one arc Easy to install Awning and tent can be installed simultaneously Possibility to install a separate awning without an inner tent Entrance and ventilation of the inner tent are duplicated with a mosquito net The entrance of the awning in the lower part is fixed with an additional hook.

Dimensions and weight: Dimensions of the outer tent, awning (L × W × H): 215 × 110 × 90 cm Total weight: 0.54 kg Minimum weight: 0.46 kg Materials: Tent: Polyester Mesh Bottom: Polyester 190T PU 00 mm W / R Fittings: Duraflex® Lightweight mesh tent. It can be used both independently and as a complete set with the “Lost” awning. The loop on the ridge allows you to set up the tent without poles using external supports, for example, between two trees. Trekking poles or improvised material can be used as poles Comrades Easy walkers, pay attention! A complete one-person tent made of Polyester Mesh with a waterproof bottom! Recommended to be used with the Lost tarpaulin! Of course, the summer option - it is impossible to "breathe" inside, but there will be no condensation either. There is plenty of fresh air - you can safely take a tent to the southern latitudes. Ticks, mosquitoes, tarantulas and other snakes will trample hopelessly at the entrance, which is closed by a single-lock Duraflex® zipper, in search of non-existent crevices. Of the definite advantages: - Light weight - 0.46-0.54 kg. Add the weight of the awning - 0.213-0.221 kg (“Lost” awning), and the total weight will still not reach a kilogram. - Small amount of packaging. - One-piece waterproof bottom made of Polyester 190T PU 00 mm W / R - Easy to install. The ridge loop allows you to pitch your tent without poles. Trekking poles can be used and the tent can be pulled over rocks and / or trees. The seams are partly edged from the inside with fabric, partly made with a seam. Everything is extremely simple, durable and easy. Additional discounts do not apply to products with a red price.

Description: Comfortable tent for camping Alexika Grand Tower 4 has become a continuation of the previous model Alexika Tower 4. Its developers have taken into account all the wishes of buyers and have provided many new features that make your hiking in nature even more comfortable. The spacious tent is designed for a great rest for four people, from mid-May to mid-October. The tent is compact and does not pose any problems during transportation. A distinctive feature of the model is a huge vestibule that can accommodate both a dining table and folding chairs. The tambour is equipped with a removable floor supplied with the tent. The wide side entrance is closed with an anti-mosquito net, which allows tourists to forget about mosquitoes. You can calmly rest in the warm season, even near a pond. The entrance to the inner tent is separated by a canopy that closes with convenient fasteners. Transparent inserts in the side walls of the tent make it possible to fill its inner space with sunlight - you can be sure that your temporary home will be bright and comfortable. Strong arcs and excellent wind resistance of Alexika Grand Tower 4 allow you not to worry about its reliability. Available in two colors: green - art. 9166.4401 beige - art. 9166.4404 Characteristics: Number of places 4 Weight 12.0 kg Field of application Camping Living in nature with high comfort. Seasonality spring-autumn Temperature to sub-zero, strong wind, prolonged rains, snow. Inner tent yes Wind resistance medium Fresh wind 9-11 m.c (31-39 km / h) Size 520x260x178 cm Size in a cover 25x70 cm Awning material Polyester 190T PU 4000 mm Bottom material Polyester 150D Oxford PU 00 mm Material of arches Durapol 11 mm Quantity inputs 3 Color green Technologies: Impregnation, retarding the spread of fire. Seams are sealed with heat shrink tape. The loaded elements of the tent are reinforced with a special material. The windproof canopy is stitched with a strong sling around the perimeter. The zippers on the outer awning are secured with aluminum hooks. The inner tent is equipped with a mosquito net, pockets, lantern loop. The lower part of the awning is reinforced with a protective strip made of Oxford 150D. Three entrances to the tent, side with a mosquito net. Comfortable pouch with compression straps. Scheme: Instruction: View in the cover The cover is a compression bag Set: outer tent, inner tent, arches, pegs, floor in the vestibule, cover Unfold the inner tent Collect arches Gently thread the arches and sleeves on the tent according to the color marking Insert the ends of the arches in the eyelet Insert the ends arcs into the eyelets on one side of the tent Pull the inner awning Attach the awning to the arcs with hooks Fix the inner tent with pegs Throw the outer awning over the installed inner tent Throw the outer awning over the installed inner tent Fix the outer awning with fastexes around the perimeter Pull the outer awning Insert the third arc according to the color coding Stretch the vestibule and fix it with pegs Close all zippers and stretch the braces Customer photos: General characteristics Purpose: camping Inner tent: yes Number of places: 4 Frame type: internal Geometry: hemisphere Construction Number of entrances / rooms: 3/1 Number of vestibules: 2 Ventilation windows: no Windows : yes Internal pockets: yes Storm guards: yes Canopy: no Possibility to mount a flashlight: yes Protection Water resistance of awning / bottom: 4000/6000 mm h.st. Sealing of seams: welded Wind / snow skirt: yes Mosquito net: yes Reinforced corners: yes Materials Awning material: polyester (190T PU) Bottom material: polyester (150D Oxford PU) Refractory impregnation: yes Arcs material: fiberglass Diameter of arches: 11 mm Dimensions and weight Dimensions of the outer tent (LxWxH): 520x260x178 cm Dimensions of the inner tent (LxWxH): 220x260 cm Dimensions when packed (LxWxH): 70x25 cm Weight: 12 kg Terminology: Ventilation windows Availability of ventilation holes in the tent structure. They allow you to drain moisture from the tent, regulate the flow of fresh air. Weight (0.0 to 68.0 kg) The lightest tents weigh between 0.8 and 2 kg. These are mainly trekking and extreme tents designed for one or two travelers. The heaviest are camping tents, as these models are often designed for a group of 4-6 people or more. Some models weigh 60 - 70 kg. These tents can accommodate up to 20 people (for more details see "Number of places"). Wind / snow protection skirt Presence of a protective skirt along the lower edge of the tent. A skirt is a strip of fabric around the perimeter of the tent that lies directly on the ground. It can be either sewn on or removable. The presence of a skirt is extremely necessary when using tents in the mountains, in winter or just at low temperatures. The skirt will prevent snow or rain from penetrating into the cracks formed by the edge of the tent and unevenness in the established place. Internal pockets Internal pockets allow you to organize your space inside the tent. Inner tent The presence of an inner tent, which in some cases can be set up separately from the awning. Models with an inner tent are usually called two-layer. The outer layer (awning) is waterproof and strong, protects from rain, and the inner layer is breathable and very light. Single layer tents are lightweight and have a small volume when assembled. Their disadvantage is that condensation accumulates on the walls of the tent, while in two-layer drops they will roll down without penetrating into the living space. Water resistance of the awning (from 300 to 20,000 mm h.c.) The maximum height of the water column that the awning of the tent can withstand. This parameter determines the water resistance of the material from which the tent is made. For areas with rare rains, tents with a water resistance index of 500 - 3000 mm of water column are suitable. If the probability of rain is high, showers are possible, then it is advisable to choose tents with an awning waterproofness of more than 3000 mm in. Art. The value of this parameter can sometimes reach up to 10,000 mm in. Art. Among the disadvantages of fabrics with high water resistance can be noted a relatively greater weight and high cost. Possibility of attaching a flashlight The presence of special hooks or loops for hanging a flashlight or lamp. Most often, these hooks are attached to the upper center of the tent. Geometry Some of its properties depend on the shape of the tent. The hemisphere has excellent wind resistance, but has less living space compared to the half roll. Usually in such tents, the frame consists of two intersecting arcs. The half roll has a large interior space. In addition, usually a significant part of such a tent is set aside for a vestibule, which looks very attractive as base stations or for a long stay in nature. Gable and tent geometries are still used, but only in the production of very simple models or large tents (for expedition groups). In such a tent, you can gather in a large company. Non-standard models are those in which the frame structure can combine several types. For example, half roll and half sphere are used to make large two-room camping tents. Sealing of seams A method of sealing the seams of a tent. Taped seams reliably protect the tent from water leaks. Welded seams are very reliable and durable as they are welded with a special tape. In addition, there are tents that lack seam sealing. Basically, these are models of the lowest category. But there are also professional tents in which sealing is not required simply because they will stand above the level of rain (above the clouds). Diameter of arches (from 0.0 to 30.0 mm) The size of the arches of the tent. Depending on the required characteristics, the arcs for the frame can have different diameters. Accordingly, the thicker the arc, the stiffer they are, but at the same time less plastic. Sometimes arcs with different diameters are used. In such tents, the arches that take on the main load are thicker, and the additional ones (to keep their shape or give more stability) are somewhat thinner. Number of places (from 1 to 20) The maximum number of people that can be accommodated in the tent at the same time. Number of tambours (from 0 to 4) Tambour is the space that separates the room from the exit. Many modern models are equipped with it, but there are also tents without it. The tambour is usually the area between the inner tent (see. "Inner tent") and an exit, which can also have a bottom. Small vestibules are used for storing things and equipment. Bottom Material Name of the material used to sew the bottom. Polyester is resistant to most acids and alkalis, to wear and tear, which allows it to be widely used in the production of the bottom of tents. Nylon is also often used for sewing tent bottoms. In the production of materials, various material processing technologies are often used. For example, Nylon Taffeta PU is polyurethane-treated to withstand a water column of 6,000 mm (see "Bottom Water Resistance"). Reinforced polyethylene is mainly used for the production of the bottom of budget tents. Polyethylene has a higher specific weight and therefore is used in the main production of camping tents (see "Purpose"). Tarpaulin is also a good material for the bottom of tents, as has a high safety margin. PVC excludes thread connection, is a good fire-resistant, moisture- and wear-resistant material, therefore it is also often used in the production of tents. Awning material Material used for sewing a tent awning. Polyester does not lose its strength when wet, it tolerates ultraviolet radiation and sunlight well, and has high heat resistance. Tents made from this material have a longer lifespan than nylon tents. Nylon loses about 10-15% of its wet strength, and is more sensitive to UV radiation and sunlight - strength decreases over time. This material is less resistant to chemicals than polyester. Membrane fabric has two seemingly incompatible qualities: "breathes" and at the same time has water-repellent properties. These properties are given to the material either by impregnation, which is applied to the fabric during production with high-temperature technology, or the thinnest film, which is glued or welded to the fabric. The combination of fabric + silicone gives tents made from this material significant advantages. These tents have a high degree of UV resistance, which is a significant advantage when used in high mountains. In addition, silicone coated fabrics are 2-3 times more durable than non-coated fabrics. Subject to the rules of operation, the tent, the awning of which has a double-sided silicone coating, can last more than 10 years. The usual tarpaulin is rarely used at the moment. Tarpaulins are heavy but inexpensive. More often in production, tarpaulin is used as a solid base with additional coatings that improve its properties. Canopy The presence of a canopy in the structure of the tent. In many camping tents, a rectangular part of the awning plays the role of a door, which can be unfastened and put on pegs, thus making an awning. Purpose Camping tents by purpose can be classified into high, mid and plain models. Highland tents are considered extreme, while midland and plain tents are subdivided into camping and trekking. Fishing tents can be singled out separately. Extreme tents are designed for mountain climbing and expeditions. The design of such a tent should be as rigid as possible to withstand the harsh conditions of the highlands (wind, snow). There are extreme tents for "Himalayan" and "Alpine" climbing styles. The Himalayan style implies the creation of several bases during the ascent, while in the Alpine style, stationary bases are not set up, and tents are carried with them. Camping tents are the most comfortable. They are intended for picnics, children's camps, camping sites. Such models are often equipped with mosquito nets, adjustable ventilation openings, in addition, they may have several rooms, entrances, vestibules. Trekking tents are designed for hiking or cycling trips in which weight plays a significant role. Such tents must be highly reliable and rigid, because often such trips last for weeks. Fishing tents are generally not designed for overnight stays. In it you can hide from the bad weather, relax. Fishing tents are usually compact and lightweight. Refractory impregnation The presence of a special impregnation that retards the spread of fire. To increase safety when using tents, some manufacturers impregnate the fabric with a compound that prevents the spread of fire in case of accidental ignition. The slower spread of the fire will provide additional time to take action to combat it or to get things out of the tent. Frame type The type of frame provided for in the structure of the tent. It is more convenient to set up a tent with an outer frame, and at the same time, the inner tent does not get wet, since the awning is placed first. The inner frame design is more difficult to set up, but allows the inner tent to be set up without an awning (outer tent). Tents without a frame are stretched on two posts or on natural supports (trees, etc.). Reinforced corners Reinforced corners of the tent. The fabric from which the tent is made can rip in places of greatest stress. To strengthen the corners, inserts made of durable fabric are used, double-layer sewing or additional stitching with slings. Storm guy lines The presence of special guy lines. Due to the larger number (compared to conventional tents) and a certain fastening scheme, such guy wires provide a high level of rigidity of the frame, which is necessary in case of stormy gusts of wind.

Description: The comfortable camping tent of the VICTORIA 10 model is one of the most spacious models. It is designed to accommodate a group of ten tourists. Three entrances give them the opportunity to use separate parts of the tent without interfering with each other. The presence of an inner tent makes it possible to close the passage to the sleeping places as conveniently as possible, so that the coolness of the night does not disturb the sleep of the sleeping people. When folded, the VICTORIA 10 camping tent weighs only 24 kilograms, which is a very good indicator for a tent of this capacity. The dimensions of the tent allow you to transport it either in the trunk of a car or in an ordinary tourist backpack. The sturdy bottom of the tent does not get wet, and the outer surface completely protects it from moisture getting inside. Another advantage of the VICTORIA 10 model is strong steel arcs inserted in the corners and in the middle into the tarpaulin. Thanks to this, the model is characterized by maximum stability. The tent reliably protects from the wind, so nothing will prevent tourists from indulging in a comfortable rest in the bosom of nature. The large camping tent VICTORIA 10 is indispensable when traveling for school groups during the holidays, and it is also an ideal choice for young people who prefer active outdoor recreation. Other tents of the VICTORIA series: 5-person tent 28.2 kg Number of places 10 Seasonality spring-autumn Temperature to minus zero, strong winds, prolonged rains, snow. Size 600x300x200 cm Size in a case 27x98 cm Awning material Polyester 190T PU 4000 mm Bottom material Polyester 150D Oxford PU 00 mm Inner tent yes Steel arches material 16mm Wind resistance average Fresh wind 9-11 m.c (31-39 km / h) Number of entrances 3 Color green Field of application Camping Living in nature with high comfort. Technologies: Impregnation that retards the spread of fire. Seams are sealed with heat shrink tape. Tent knots under high stress are reinforced with stronger fabric. The edge of the awning is sheathed with a strong sling. The zippers on the outer awning are secured with an aluminum hook. The inner tent is equipped with a mosquito net, pockets, lantern ring. The efficient ventilation system consists of three ventilation windows with mosquito nets and external zippered curtains located around the perimeter of the tent. Additional steel uprights for door curtains. Three entrances to the tent. Two large transparent windows on the roof of the tent. The inner tent is divided into 2 bedrooms for 5 5 people. Scheme: General characteristics Purpose: camping Inner tent: yes Number of places: 10 Frame type: internal Geometry: non-standard Design Number of entrances / rooms: 3/1 Number of vestibules: 2 Number of ventilation windows: 3 Number of windows: 2 Internal pockets: no Canopy: yes Possibility of mounting a flashlight: yes Protection Water resistance of the awning / bottom: 4000/4000 mm h.st. Sealing seams: glued Wind / snow skirt: no Mosquito net: yes UV protection: yes Reinforced corners: yes Materials Awning material: polyester (185T PU) Bottom material: polyethylene Inner tent material: polyester (RipStop Light) Refractory impregnation: yes Material bows: steel Diameter of bows: 19 mm Dimensions and weight Dimensions of the outer tent (LxWxH): 600x300x200 cm Dimensions of the inner tent (LxWxH): 480x300x200 cm Dimensions when packed (LxWxH): 98x30x28 cm Weight: 24 kg Additional information: inner tent with a partition middle Terminology: Weight (0.0 to 68.0 kg) The lightest tents weigh between 0.8 and 2 kg. These are mainly trekking and extreme tents designed for one or two travelers. The heaviest are camping tents, as these models are often designed for a group of 4-6 people or more. Some models weigh 60 - 70 kg. These tents can accommodate up to 20 people (for more details see "Number of places"). Wind / snow protection skirt Presence of a protective skirt along the lower edge of the tent. A skirt is a strip of fabric around the perimeter of the tent that lies directly on the ground. It can be either sewn on or removable. The presence of a skirt is extremely necessary when using tents in the mountains, in winter or just at low temperatures. The skirt will prevent snow or rain from penetrating into the cracks formed by the edge of the tent and unevenness in the established place. Internal pockets Internal pockets allow you to organize your space inside the tent. Inner tent The presence of an inner tent, which in some cases can be set up separately from the awning. Models with an inner tent are usually called two-layer. The outer layer (awning) is waterproof and strong, protects from rain, and the inner layer is breathable and very light. Single layer tents are lightweight and have a small volume when assembled. Their disadvantage is that condensation accumulates on the walls of the tent, while in two-layer drops they will roll down without penetrating into the living space. Water resistance of the awning (from 300 to 20,000 mm h.c.) The maximum height of the water column that the awning of the tent can withstand. This parameter determines the water resistance of the material from which the tent is made. For areas with rare rains, tents with a water resistance index of 500 - 3000 mm of water column are suitable. If the probability of rain is high, showers are possible, then it is advisable to choose tents with an awning waterproofness of more than 3000 mm in. Art. The value of this parameter can sometimes reach up to 10,000 mm in. Art. Among the disadvantages of fabrics with high water resistance can be noted a relatively greater weight and high cost. Possibility of attaching a flashlight The presence of special hooks or loops for hanging a flashlight or lamp. Most often, these hooks are attached to the upper center of the tent. Geometry Some of its properties depend on the shape of the tent. The hemisphere has excellent wind resistance, but has less living space compared to the half roll. Usually in such tents, the frame consists of two intersecting arcs. The half roll has a large interior space. In addition, usually a significant part of such a tent is set aside for a vestibule, which looks very attractive as base stations or for a long stay in nature. Gable and tent geometries are still used, but only in the production of very simple models or large tents (for expedition groups). In such a tent, you can gather in a large company. Non-standard models are those in which the frame structure can combine several types. For example, half roll and half sphere are used to make large two-room camping tents. Sealing of seams A method of sealing the seams of a tent. Taped seams reliably protect the tent from water leaks. Welded seams are very reliable and durable as they are welded with a special tape. In addition, there are tents that lack seam sealing. Basically, these are models of the lowest category. But there are also professional tents in which sealing is not required simply because they will stand above the level of rain (above the clouds). Diameter of arches (from 0.0 to 30.0 mm) The size of the arches of the tent. Depending on the required characteristics, the arcs for the frame can have different diameters. Accordingly, the thicker the arc, the stiffer they are, but at the same time less plastic. Sometimes arcs with different diameters are used. In such tents, the arches that take on the main load are thicker, and the additional ones (to keep their shape or give more stability) are somewhat thinner. Number of ventilation windows (from 1 to 12) The presence of several such windows in a camping tent will be highly desirable, since the size of tents often allows you to cook food inside and boil water. Usually tents with several rooms (see "Number of rooms") have a separate ventilation system in each of them. Number of places (from 1 to 20) The maximum number of people that can be accommodated in the tent at the same time. Number of tambours (from 0 to 4) Tambour is the space that separates the room from the exit. Many modern models are equipped with it, but there are also tents without it. The tambour is usually the area between the inner tent (see "Inner Tent") and the exit, which may also have a bottom. Small vestibules are used for storing things and equipment. Inner Tent Material The name of the material that the inner tent is made of (see "Inner Tent"). Nylon, produced in compliance with certain technologies (weaving, density, etc.), has the necessary strength and breathability. Polyester can also be used to sew an inner tent. It has greater strength and durability than nylon and is highly breathable. Cotton is rarely used in the production of indoor tents. This tent can be recommended for those who are allergic to synthetics. Among the advantages are also low weight and low cost. But a tent made of such material must be thoroughly dried before storage, otherwise there is a possibility that the fabric will deteriorate. Bottom Material Name of the material used to sew the bottom. Polyester is resistant to most acids and alkalis, to wear and tear, which allows it to be widely used in the production of the bottom of tents. Nylon is also often used for sewing tent bottoms. In the production of materials, various material processing technologies are often used. For example, Nylon Taffeta PU is polyurethane-treated to withstand a water column of 6,000 mm (see "Bottom Water Resistance"). Reinforced polyethylene is mainly used for the production of the bottom of budget tents. Polyethylene has a higher specific weight and therefore is used in the main production of camping tents (see "Purpose"). Tarpaulin is also a good material for the bottom of tents, as has a high safety margin. PVC excludes thread connection, is a good fire-resistant, moisture- and wear-resistant material, therefore it is also often used in the production of tents. Awning material Material used for sewing a tent awning. Polyester does not lose its strength when wet, it tolerates ultraviolet radiation and sunlight well, and has high heat resistance. Tents made from this material have a longer lifespan than nylon tents. Nylon loses about 10-15% of its wet strength, and is more sensitive to UV radiation and sunlight - strength decreases over time. This material is less resistant to chemicals than polyester. Membrane fabric has two seemingly incompatible qualities: "breathes" and at the same time has water-repellent properties. These properties are given to the material either by impregnation, which is applied to the fabric during production with high-temperature technology, or the thinnest film, which is glued or welded to the fabric. The combination of fabric + silicone gives tents made from this material significant advantages. These tents have a high degree of UV resistance, which is a significant advantage when used in high mountains. In addition, silicone coated fabrics are 2-3 times more durable than non-coated fabrics. Subject to the rules of operation, the tent, the awning of which has a double-sided silicone coating, can last more than 10 years. The usual tarpaulin is rarely used at the moment. Tarpaulins are heavy but inexpensive. More often in production, tarpaulin is used as a solid base with additional coatings that improve its properties. Canopy The presence of a canopy in the structure of the tent. In many camping tents, a rectangular part of the awning plays the role of a door, which can be unfastened and put on pegs, thus making an awning. Purpose Camping tents by purpose can be classified into high, mid and plain models. Highland tents are considered extreme, while midland and plain tents are subdivided into camping and trekking. Fishing tents can be singled out separately. Extreme tents are designed for mountain climbing and expeditions. The design of such a tent should be as rigid as possible to withstand the harsh conditions of the highlands (wind, snow). There are extreme tents for "Himalayan" and "Alpine" climbing styles. The Himalayan style implies the creation of several bases during the ascent, while in the Alpine style, stationary bases are not set up, and tents are carried with them. Camping tents are the most comfortable. They are intended for picnics, children's camps, camping sites. Such models are often equipped with mosquito nets, adjustable ventilation openings, in addition, they may have several rooms, entrances, vestibules. Trekking tents are designed for hiking or cycling trips in which weight plays a significant role. Such tents must be highly reliable and rigid, because often such trips last for weeks. Fishing tents are generally not designed for overnight stays. In it you can hide from the bad weather, relax. Fishing tents are usually compact and lightweight. Refractory impregnation The presence of a special impregnation that retards the spread of fire. To increase safety when using tents, some manufacturers impregnate the fabric with a compound that prevents the spread of fire in case of accidental ignition. The slower spread of the fire will provide additional time to take action to combat it or to get things out of the tent. Frame type The type of frame provided for in the structure of the tent. It is more convenient to set up a tent with an outer frame, and at the same time, the inner tent does not get wet, since the awning is placed first. The inner frame design is more difficult to set up, but allows the inner tent to be set up without an awning (outer tent). Tents without a frame are stretched on two posts or on natural supports (trees, etc.). Reinforced corners Reinforced corners of the tent. The fabric from which the tent is made can rip in places of greatest stress. To strengthen the corners, inserts made of durable fabric are used, double-layer sewing or additional stitching with slings.

Number of seats: 2 Dimensions and weight: Dimensions of the outer tent, awning (L × W × H): 410 × 160 × 110 cm Dimensions of the berth (L × W × H): 220 × 140/90 × 100 cm Packaged dimensions (L × W × H): 50 × 22 × 17 cm Total weight: 3.89 kg Minimum weight (without cover and pegs): 3.29 kg Materials: Outer tent: Polyester 75D / 190T PU8000 mm Inner tent: Polyester R / S 68D / 210T W / R Bottom: Polyester 100D PU 10000 mm Arcs: Aluminum alloy 7001 T6 Ø8.5 mm Pegs: Trigonal aluminum pin Accessories: YKK Tunnel type tourist tent with a comfortable inner volume and a large vestibule Construction for 3 outer arches allows you to quickly set up the tent in adverse weather conditions The tent and the awning can be installed simultaneously. It is possible to install a separate awning without an inner tent. Ventilation holes are located at the ends of the tent under protective visors and are duplicated with a mosquito net. Provide good flow ventilation of the inner volume The entrance to the vestibule and the main tent is duplicated with a mosquito net Additional large ventilation window in the vestibule is closed with a waterproof curtain with a zipper. Guy ropes have an interwoven reflective thread.

Geodesic tent with a "hallway". Number of seats: Total number of berths. Depending on the purpose of the tent, the width of the berth varies from 51 cm to 70 cm. 2 Weight: The indicated weight of the tent is without cover and with cover. 5.30 kg Size: 126x270x370 cm Case size: 55x39x13 cm Awning material: 185 Polyester PU Lightweight polyester material with a four-layer polyurethane coating. UV resistant. Does not stretch when wet. Bottom material: 210T Nylon Taffeta PU Tight weave fabric with PU coated. Inner tent: 190T RipStop Nylon W / R Lightweight and durable material with high breathability and water repellency. Arches material: Alu 7001 / T6,9,5 mm Number of entrances: Two or more entrances increase the comfort of living, provide additional convenience of entry-exit and excellent ventilation in hot weather. 1 Description Advantages and features Ten attachment points ensure high wind resistance Easy installation. Two entrances to the outdoor tent. Two entrances to the inner tent with separately closing mesh windows. Two ventilation vents in the outer and inner tent. Four pockets in the inner tent. Anodized aluminum alloy frame. Guy reflective detailing. Waterproof design of coatings, ventilation vents and joints. Particularly reinforced corner straps. General characteristics Purpose: trekking Inner tent: yes Number of places: 3 Frame type: external Geometry: hemisphere Construction Number of entrances / rooms: 1/1 Number of vestibules: 2 Ventilation windows: yes Windows: no Internal pockets: yes Number of guy wires: 10 Canopy: no Possibility of mounting a flashlight: yes Protection Waterproof of awning / bottom: 8000/10000 mm h.c. Sealing seams: glued Wind / snow skirt: no Mosquito net: yes UV protection: yes Materials Awning material: polyester (185T PU) Bottom material: nylon (210T Taffeta PU) Inner tent material: nylon (190T RipStop) Arch material: alloy aluminum (7001 T6) Diameter of arches: 9.5 mm Dimensions and weight Dimensions of the outer tent (LxWxH): 380x270x126 cm Dimensions of the inner tent (LxWxH): 240x220x125 cm Dimensions when packed (LxWxH): 55x39x13 cm Weight: 5.5 kg Terminology: Ventilation windows Availability in the structure of the tent ventilation holes. They allow you to drain moisture from the tent, regulate the flow of fresh air. Weight (0.0 to 68.0 kg) The lightest tents weigh from 0. 8 to 2 kg. These are mainly trekking and extreme tents designed for one or two travelers. The heaviest are camping tents, as these models are often designed for a group of 4-6 people or more. Some models weigh 60 - 70 kg. These tents can accommodate up to 20 people (for more details see "Number of places"). Wind / snow protection skirt Presence of a protective skirt along the lower edge of the tent. A skirt is a strip of fabric around the perimeter of the tent that lies directly on the ground. It can be either sewn on or removable. The presence of a skirt is extremely necessary when using tents in the mountains, in winter or just at low temperatures. The skirt will prevent snow or rain from penetrating into the cracks formed by the edge of the tent and unevenness in the established place. Internal pockets Internal pockets allow you to organize your space inside the tent. Inner tent The presence of an inner tent, which in some cases can be set up separately from the awning. Models with an inner tent are usually called two-layer. The outer layer (awning) is waterproof and strong, protects from rain, and the inner layer is breathable and very light. Single layer tents are lightweight and have a small volume when assembled. Their disadvantage is that condensation accumulates on the walls of the tent, while in two-layer drops they will roll down without penetrating into the living space. Water resistance of the awning (from 300 to 20,000 mm h.c.) The maximum height of the water column that the awning of the tent can withstand. This parameter determines the water resistance of the material from which the tent is made. For areas with rare rains, tents with a water resistance index of 500 - 3000 mm of water column are suitable. If the probability of rain is high, showers are possible, then it is advisable to choose tents with an awning waterproofness of more than 3000 mm in. Art. The value of this parameter can sometimes reach up to 10,000 mm in. Art. Among the disadvantages of fabrics with high water resistance can be noted a relatively greater weight and high cost. Possibility of attaching a flashlight The presence of special hooks or loops for hanging a flashlight or lamp. Most often, these hooks are attached to the upper center of the tent. Geometry Some of its properties depend on the shape of the tent. The hemisphere has excellent wind resistance, but has less living space compared to the half roll. Usually in such tents, the frame consists of two intersecting arcs. The half roll has a large interior space. In addition, usually a significant part of such a tent is set aside for a vestibule, which looks very attractive as base stations or for a long stay in nature. Gable and tent geometries are still used, but only in the production of very simple models or large tents (for expedition groups). In such a tent, you can gather in a large company. Non-standard models are those in which the frame structure can combine several types. For example, half roll and half sphere are used to make large two-room camping tents. Sealing of seams A method of sealing the seams of a tent. Taped seams reliably protect the tent from water leaks. Welded seams are very reliable and durable as they are welded with a special tape. In addition, there are tents that lack seam sealing. Basically, these are models of the lowest category. But there are also professional tents in which sealing is not required simply because they will stand above the level of rain (above the clouds). Diameter of arches (from 0.0 to 30.0 mm) The size of the arches of the tent. Depending on the required characteristics, the arcs for the frame can have different diameters. Accordingly, the thicker the arc, the stiffer they are, but at the same time less plastic. Sometimes arcs with different diameters are used. In such tents, the arches that take on the main load are thicker, and the additional ones (to keep their shape or give more stability) are somewhat thinner. Number of places (from 1 to 20) The maximum number of people that can be accommodated in the tent at the same time. Number of guy lines (2 to 39) The number of guy lines in the tent. Depending on the purpose and design, the tents are equipped with a different number of side guy lines. The more guys there are, the greater the resistance of the structure to deformations from the wind (all other things being equal). But at the same time, more time is spent on setting up the tent. Number of tambours (from 0 to 4) Tambour is the space that separates the room from the exit. Many modern models are equipped with it, but there are also tents without it. The tambour is usually the area between the inner tent (see "Inner Tent") and the exit, which may also have a bottom. Small vestibules are used for storing things and equipment. Inner Tent Material The name of the material that the inner tent is made of (see "Inner Tent"). Nylon, produced with the observance of certain technologies (weaving, density, etc.) and has the necessary strength and breathability. Polyester can also be used to sew an inner tent. It has greater strength and durability than nylon and is highly breathable. Cotton is rarely used in the production of indoor tents. This tent can be recommended for those who are allergic to synthetics. Among the advantages are also low weight and low cost. But a tent made of such material must be thoroughly dried before storage, otherwise there is a possibility that the fabric will deteriorate. Bottom Material Name of the material used to sew the bottom. Polyester is resistant to most acids and alkalis, to wear and tear, which allows it to be widely used in the production of the bottom of tents. Nylon is also often used for sewing tent bottoms. In the production of materials, various material processing technologies are often used. For example, Nylon Taffeta PU is polyurethane-treated to withstand a water column of 6,000 mm (see "Bottom Water Resistance"). Reinforced polyethylene is mainly used for the production of the bottom of budget tents. Polyethylene has a higher specific weight and therefore is used in the main production of camping tents (see "Purpose"). Tarpaulin is also a good material for the bottom of tents, as has a high safety margin. PVC excludes thread connection, is a good fire-resistant, moisture- and wear-resistant material, therefore it is also often used in the production of tents. Awning material Material used for sewing a tent awning. Polyester does not lose its strength when wet, it tolerates ultraviolet radiation and sunlight well, and has high heat resistance. Tents made from this material have a longer lifespan than nylon tents. Nylon loses about 10-15% of its wet strength, and is more sensitive to UV radiation and sunlight - strength decreases over time. This material is less resistant to chemicals than polyester. Membrane fabric has two seemingly incompatible qualities: "breathes" and at the same time has water-repellent properties. These properties are given to the material either by impregnation, which is applied to the fabric during production with high-temperature technology, or the thinnest film, which is glued or welded to the fabric. The combination of fabric + silicone gives tents made from this material significant advantages. These tents have a high degree of UV resistance, which is a significant advantage when used in high mountains. In addition, silicone coated fabrics are 2-3 times more durable than non-coated fabrics. Subject to the rules of operation, the tent, the awning of which has a double-sided silicone coating, can last more than 10 years. The usual tarpaulin is rarely used at the moment. Tarpaulins are heavy but inexpensive. More often in production, tarpaulin is used as a solid base with additional coatings that improve its properties. Canopy The presence of a canopy in the structure of the tent. In many camping tents, a rectangular part of the awning plays the role of a door, which can be unfastened and put on pegs, thus making an awning. Purpose Camping tents by purpose can be classified into high, mid and plain models. Highland tents are considered extreme, while midland and plain tents are subdivided into camping and trekking. Fishing tents can be singled out separately. Extreme tents are designed for mountain climbing and expeditions. The design of such a tent should be as rigid as possible to withstand the harsh conditions of the highlands (wind, snow). There are extreme tents for "Himalayan" and "Alpine" climbing styles. The Himalayan style implies the creation of several bases during the ascent, while in the Alpine style, stationary bases are not set up, and tents are carried with them. Camping tents are the most comfortable. They are intended for picnics, children's camps, camping sites. Such models are often equipped with mosquito nets, adjustable ventilation openings, in addition, they may have several rooms, entrances, vestibules. Trekking tents are designed for hiking or cycling trips in which weight plays a significant role. Such tents must be highly reliable and rigid, because often such trips last for weeks. Fishing tents are generally not designed for overnight stays. In it you can hide from the bad weather, relax. Fishing tents are usually compact and lightweight. Frame type The type of frame provided for in the structure of the tent. It is more convenient to set up a tent with an outer frame, and at the same time, the inner tent does not get wet, since the awning is placed first. The inner frame design is more difficult to set up, but allows the inner tent to be set up without an awning (outer tent). Tents without a frame are stretched on two posts or on natural supports (trees, etc.).

Have you ever broken the arch of your tent while hiking? And accidentally burn a tent with a spark from a fire, pierce it with a branch, stain it in tree resin, break a zipper or tear a mosquito net?

These annoying accidents can ruin the long-awaited outdoor recreation and turn it into torment. To be ready to tackle any problem, we've prepared a checklist for you to put in your camping tent repair kit.

We have prepared this article based on many years of experience in interacting with Alexika clients who have come to us for help in repairing tents.

How to fix a tent awning?

One of the most common problems is various micro-damage to the outer tent awning. These include:

Spark hit from a fire
- falling cones and branches,
- accidental piercing of the awning with stones or other sharp objects.

If you have any questions or difficulties with the repair of tents, write to us, we are always happy to help you!

If the tent is torn, it does not have to be thrown away. At home, using a sealant, you can repair a loose seam, and with the help of two patches and glue, a broken tent fabric. The main thing is to notice the damage in time, and after the repair the tent will become like new

An experienced traveler, before going on another trip, be sure to carefully check all his equipment and inventory. It is better to identify any breakdown at home, which, among other things, does not make such a discovery in any way pleasant.

If you find that your tent is torn, there is no desire to spend money on a new one, and the old one could still serve for several years, then you should not be upset. Almost any damage to the tent can be repaired at home, as long as it is not a giant gap, and if the entire tent is not in the holes.

Tent damage can be divided into two types - seam divergence and awning fabric tear.

If you find that your tent is torn at the seam, you will need a good sealant to repair it, which you can easily find at a camping equipment store. It is quite possible that you already have it at home, because many tourists recommend buying such repair tools in advance and taking them with you if you are going on a long trip.

Before applying the sealant, the bonding area must be thoroughly cleaned. At the same time, be careful with the tent so that the gap does not go further. When the surface is cleaned, it is necessary to apply the sealant not too thickly to the elements of the seam to be glued and the folds that cover them. Allow to dry a little, then tightly connect the matter. For reliability and strength, the seams can be ironed with an iron or stone (if the repair is taking place far from civilization). For a couple of hours after that, it is best not to touch the tent at all, and to ensure reliability, leave it to dry in a dry, warm place for about a day.

If the fabric is torn directly, then first the gap should be tightly sewn up with a strong thread. After that, carefully coat the new seam with glue for raincoat fabrics. While it dries, cut out 2 patches, which should be about 2 cm larger than the gap on all sides.

As a material for patches, you can take a piece of jacket fabric. However, with some tents, manufacturers supply additional material for the patches. Impregnate the resulting piece of fabric with a water-repellent agent. First, we apply waterproof glue to one side of each patch, coat the seam on both sides. When the glue has dried, we repeat the procedure, give it time to dry slightly, and then apply patches to the break from the inside and outside.

Using a stream of hot air from a hair dryer, we warm up the glues. We leave the tent for 4-5 hours, after which it will be ready for full-function use again.

If the gap occurred already during the hike, then the hole can at least be sewn up, and the main repair work can be postponed until you return.

The task of any tent is to effectively protect the interior space from cold, wind, sun and atmospheric precipitation. Even slight damage to the canvas can lead to a decrease in the protective properties of camping equipment. However, any defect can be repaired at home without much difficulty. How to properly glue the tent, what materials you need to use for this and what the principle of work is, read our article.

What are tents made of?

The question of how to glue a camping tent arises naturally when a cut or other damage is found on the camping equipment. In this case, most tourists are in a hurry to quickly hand over the tent for repair, not even realizing that it can be repaired at home without any problems. However, for this you will have to know some theory, namely, what material modern awnings are made of.

The following materials are used for the manufacture of tourist tents:

  • based on polyester fibers - lavsan, polyester;
  • based on polyamide fibers - nylon, nylon.

All of the above synthetic fabrics have good elasticity and strength, are resistant to abrasion, but are quite vulnerable to cuts and punctures. Also, fire carries a great danger to nylon. Even a small coal ejected from the fire burns through your favorite product in a matter of seconds, making its further operation almost impossible.

Damage types

Even deliberately damaging your tent can be very difficult, but almost anything can happen in the forest. The most common reasons that lead to a breach of the tightness of the tent:

  • thermal damage - burning an awning with coals from a fire or a cigarette;
  • wear - long-term use, careless operation;
  • mechanical damage - tears, cuts, punctures.

Each type of damage has its own repair method, because they are very different from each other. However, small "injuries" can be easily eliminated right in nature.

Quick repairs in the forest

Interested in how to quickly glue a camping tent in the field? Most experienced tourists will advise using reinforced tape. Even a small piece of this material is enough to repair the damage right on the hike and continue to enjoy your vacation.

If you did not have an adhesive tape with you, then you can use glue and a small piece of any fabric. All you have to do is cut off a suitable piece of material, and then glue it at the site of damage. After that, all that remains is to carry out better repairs at home.

The choice of adhesive for the patch

Another important condition that cannot be neglected is the choice of a high-quality adhesive. To repair a tent with your own hands, you will need to choose a good glue, the composition of which should have a number of advantages:

  • the ability to withstand the effects of precipitation and washing;
  • colorlessness, lack of smell and traces;
  • dense structure.

Also, the choice of glue should be based on the type of material with which the work will be carried out. For example, for synthetic tents, the Moment Crystal composition is best suited.

Materials and tools

Any work cannot be carried out without special materials and tools, and repairing a tent in this case is no exception. To glue a tent made of polyester or other synthetic material, you will definitely need everything from this list:

  • polyurethane glue;
  • patch fabric;
  • thread and needle;
  • scissors.

This is just the most essential set of tools and materials. If desired, this list can be supplemented with something. In this case, try to select only high-quality tools so that the work goes quickly and without complications.

Repairing cuts on the bottom of the tent

Torn or cut the tent awning? Do not rush to hand over tourist equipment for repairs, since all the necessary work can be easily done at home. In order to glue the bottom of the tent, you must follow a certain algorithm of actions, which will be described below.

  1. We wipe the "wounded" surface from water and dirt. If you decide to repair your tent at home, do not be lazy and wipe it with cologne or alcohol to properly degrease.
  2. Cut out the patch to the required size. The edges should be 1 to 2 centimeters larger than the resulting cut. The corners must be rounded off with scissors, since they are the ones who most often start to bully.
  3. We apply the required amount of glue (you can find out from the instructions) on the surface of the patch and the tent itself. It is very important here to arrange the travel tool in a convenient way.
  4. Press down the glued surface with a heavy object. Most adhesive manufacturers claim that pressure at the time of repair is much more important than duration.
  5. We are waiting for about 15-20 minutes for the glue to set properly. However, do not immediately after that climb into the repaired tent. It is better to let it stand for several days, and only then use it.

If you have a large cut, you can try to sew up the tent. However, for this you need to have at least minimal knowledge in this area. The stitches should be close and straight and the thread very strong. If you are not confident in your abilities, then it would be better to return the tent for repair.

We repair a worn out surface

After several years of active use of the tent, the material can begin to leak water without any visible damage. There is only one reason for this - the polymer water-repellent layer has worn out, and now it is not possible to use camping equipment in the rain. How, in this case, to glue the awning of the tent, or is it still worth throwing it away and buying a new one?

To eliminate this problem, it will be enough to buy any impregnation for the awning, for example, British-made Granger's. The water-repellent material is easily and quickly restored at home using the following algorithm.

  1. We remove the awning cloth from the frame and clean it from contamination with water.
  2. We lay out the fabric on the floor so that it is convenient to work with it.
  3. We treat the tent with impregnation using a sponge or spray.
  4. Thoroughly dry the material unfolded.

It should be noted that such processing should be carried out every 1-2 years, without waiting for the tent to wear out. You should also apply the impregnation strictly according to the instructions, using special protective equipment.

Repair of raincoat fabric tent

To glue a raincoat fabric tent, you must have the same tools available as in all previous cases, adding only a few cotton swabs to this list. It is worth pre-treating the surface of the awning with water and any degreasing agent, and then leave the tent in the room to dry. It is advisable to have a fan heater or heating radiator nearby.

After a few hours, apply polyurethane glue to the damaged surface. To make the layer lay evenly, use cotton swabs for this. Moreover, processing should be carried out on both surfaces to be glued, carefully lubricating the fabric along the edges. During gluing, it is necessary to maintain a technological pause, carefully and accurately pressing the surfaces against each other. It is necessary to make maximum efforts, since the strength of the fabric bond depends on this.

Repair of a tent with silicone impregnation

Most often, tents with an outer and inner layer of silicone impregnation are damaged in the area of ​​the seams, so we will consider this particular repair method. If your awning is torn in another place, then the repair must be carried out in the same way as in the two previous cases.

  1. We lay out the canvas with the seams outward and process the surface with water.
  2. We disinfect the seams and let the awning dry in a warm room.
  3. Apply a thin layer of silicone glue with a brush.
  4. We glue the surfaces and leave them to dry for 24 hours.

Be sure to dust the seams with talcum powder before folding the tent. It is also recommended to treat outdoors in warm weather, as silicone glue can be very toxic. If you have a respirator, then you can carry out repairs in a well-ventilated area.

How not to repair

Now you know well how to glue the tent at home. However, so that in the process of work you do not make common mistakes, let's consider two of the most "harmful" repair methods, which should not be resorted to even in the event of temporary elimination of the leak.

Never hem the edges of the tarpaulin. This method will not save the tent from leaking in any way, but most of the tent will be damaged by punctures from the needle. It sounds pretty simple, but many people neglect this rule and, instead of making quality repairs, they only make things worse.

It is also highly discouraged to seal any damage with "silver" tape. The effect of such a patch will be temporary, since the adhesive tape is unlikely to last more than two days, but it will be extremely difficult to remove the remaining adhesive from the surface. Sometimes this glue comes into contact with a moisture-resistant coating, after which it is completely absorbed into the fabric. In this case, there is only one thing left - a complete replacement of fragments of the damaged canvas with a new fabric.

Should I give my tent to the workshop?

Now it's time to talk about whether it is worth giving the tent to be glued to the workshop, because careless handling of the awning fabric during repairs can completely render the tent unusable. This is especially true in the case of large damage. Therefore, you should not completely neglect the opportunity to contact the workshop. In such establishments, a specialist will not only be able to conduct a complete inspection of the entire surface of the awning, but will also give the owner of the tent all the necessary recommendations to avoid damage in the future.

A tent repairman will be able to carry out the gluing procedure much better than an ordinary owner at home. The cost of repairs may vary depending on the region, but it rarely exceeds 700-800 rubles. Sometimes you have to pay 1000 rubles for repairs, but this is only if the nature of the damage is very complex or the degree of deterioration of the fabric is high.

We hope you now better understand how you can glue the tent and how to properly do it at home. No one is insured against damage to tourist equipment, so every tent owner should be able to repair it if necessary. If you are not confident in your abilities or do not have enough time, then you can safely give the awning for repair, but get ready to part with a certain amount of money. In other cases, it is still worth gluing yourself, since there is nothing difficult in this.

The task of any awning is to effectively protect the interior space from precipitation, sun, wind, cold. Even minor damage reduces the protective properties of the tent or canvas. What damage can be repaired at home?

Repair of punctures and damage to the awning at home

The textile part of the tent and the covering awnings are made of dense fabric with a moisture-repellent coating. Finished products must be completely sealed. Therefore, even microscopic holes from the needles on the seams of the awning are boiled with hot air or glued with a special tape.

It is quite difficult to damage such fabric. The tightness of the tent (awning) can be broken for one of the reasons:

In the first case, the tent should be immediately shown to the repairman. It is possible that the entire surface of the tent is worn out and cannot be repaired, so the master will advise you to buy a new tent.

Minor “injuries” can be repaired without professional repair. How to do it right? It is not enough to simply sew the damage with a thread - such a repair will not restore the tightness of the product. The fabric must be glued and patched from a piece of similar tarpaulin material.

For simple repairs, you will need a patch, a needle with strong thread, and glue for working with synthetic fabric. Patch textiles can be purchased at a camping equipment store or cut from an unwanted tarpaulin.

The glue needs moisture resistant, capable of withstanding the load on the awning and not cracking from frequent folding of the tent:


Simple gluing procedure:

  1. Cut the patch to size 2-5 cm wider than the damage;
  2. Sew the gap to avoid displacement of the torn edges under the patch;
  3. Stretch the awning on a flat, hard surface;
  4. Remove dirt and degrease the place of gluing with alcohol, acetone or alcohol-containing liquid (White Spirit, vodka, cologne);
  5. Apply a layer of glue to the damaged surface of the awning and to the patch;
  6. Press the patch tightly to the awning, straightening the folds on the surface of the textile parts;
  7. If necessary, remove excess glue that has emerged along the edges;
  8. Leave the tent under pressure for at least 24 hours.

For another gluing method you will need:

  • Industrial (construction) hair dryer;
  • Silicone roller with heat resistant surface;
  • Patch;
  • Needle with strong thread
  • Glue;

For the thermal method, one of the listed compositions for PVC is suitable. You can also use a special thermoplastic adhesive such as Rapid.


Tip: Try to choose a patch that is as close as possible in material and structure to the fabric of the awning.

How to repair a worn surface and seams

After several years of active use, even an awning without visible damage can begin to leak water. There may be several reasons:

  1. The layer of polymer water-repellent impregnation is worn out.

In the instructions for the tent, the presence of such a coating is referred to as "durable water repellent" or DWR. The polymer layer is applied to the outer surface of the awning and does not allow moisture to be absorbed into the fabric.

As the DWR wears out, areas of the fabric begin to absorb moisture from precipitation. The fabric becomes heavier, heavy condensation and / or small leaks may appear on the seamy side of the tent.

To eliminate this problem, you will need to buy an impregnation for the awning. For example, McNett ReviveX Durable Waterproofing (McNett, USA), Grangers Fabsil Universal Protector (Granger’s, UK), Holmenkol HighTec Proof (Holmenkol, Germany) and others. You can restore the moisture-repellent layer yourself:

  • Clean the fabric from dirt;
  • A straight awning canvas can be simply laid out on the floor, and the tent set up on a frame;
  • Treat with impregnation with a spray or sponge;
  • Dry thoroughly unfolded.

"Home" processing of awning fabric will need to be carried out regularly, at least once every 2 years. Professional remedies are much more sustainable.

Important: the impregnation should be applied strictly according to the instructions. Be sure to use protective equipment - glasses, rubber gloves.


Signs of worn coating:

  • The textile surface becomes sticky. The details of the tent stick to your hands or "stick together".
  • Unpleasant "chemical" ODOR.
  • Partial separation of the coating from the fabric.

It is possible to restore the PU coating, but this process will take a long time. The main difficulty is to find a composition in the store for applying a new layer of PU. For example, McNett Tent Sure Tent Sealant or Aquaseal Polycoat from McNett (USA). The step-by-step repair process is as follows:

  • Remove the remnants of the old coating. For this, you can use a non-metallic hard brush. It is easier to clean the cover if you wash your tent in the washing machine beforehand. It is important to use gentle detergents and wash in “hand” or “delicate” modes.
  • Rinse and degrease the cleaned cloth.
  • Expand (stretch on the frame).
  • Apply the composition evenly with a sponge or brush.
  • Dry unfolded for up to 24 hours.
  • Treat the surface with baby powder (talcum powder), store.
  1. The seam on the PU-impregnated tent is leaking.

Seams of a tent welded or taped with a special tape cannot always be restored at home. If the parts were thermally connected, it is better to carry out repairs immediately in the workshop.

To repair a seam with a peeled tape, you will need:


Before starting the repair, the awning must be expanded (stretched on the frame) with the seams outward. After that:

  • Remove and carefully clean off the remnants of the "factory" tape;
  • Degrease the seam;
  • Mark the place of glue application with masking tape;
  • Apply glue in a thick layer so that the composition is absorbed as deeply as possible. This can be done with a soft brush or tube applicator;
  • Apply the tape evenly and press down;
  • Remove excess glue around the edges of the tape;
  • Dry completely within 24 hours;
  • Before folding, remove the tape, sprinkle the seams with talcum powder (powder).

Advice: if gaps appear at the seam site, they must be stitched with a thick thread before gluing.

  1. The seam on the silicone-impregnated tent is leaking.

Tents with inner and outer silicone coating (Si / Si, Sil / Sil markings) must not be thermally repaired. Often, a repair kit with special patches and a silicone-based adhesive is included with such models. If this is not in the kit, you can fix the seams using this method:


Tip: Silicone treatment is best done outdoors. It is important that the weather is dry and warm.

Urgent repairs - how to make a temporary patch

It is not difficult to repair a tent in field conditions if you have a "repair kit" made of glue and a piece of awning fabric of a suitable size. If there is no such set, then the "ambulance" for the textile awning is any polyurethane adhesive-sealant with which the ends of the gap can be held together.

Experienced tourists recommend using reinforced plumbing tape to repair small tears in a polyethylene awning or floor covering.

Pieces of tape, evenly attached to the grease-free surface on the inside and outside of the tent, will temporarily "patch" the leak. At home, such a patch can be thermally fixed: warm it up with a hairdryer and roll it with a roller.

How not to repair

There are two most "harmful" repair methods, which masters do not recommend resorting to, even for temporary elimination of leaks:


Workshop repair: what you need to know

Any careless repair, especially thermal sizing, can spoil the awning fabric. Therefore, it is better to contact the workshop. Where to go to get a professional repair?


The repairman will inspect the entire surface of the awning, give recommendations on the feasibility and methods of repair. It is possible that during the examination, other damage and weakening of the tissue will be found.

Together with a specialist, the tent owner can choose a convenient troubleshooting method. The workshop can offer the following services:


Experts will carry out the repairs in a better and more accurate manner than can be done at home. Depending on the region, the cost of repairing 1 meter of awning is from 700 - 800 rubles. The final price of such a service is determined by the size and complexity of the damage, the degree of deterioration of the fabric.