How to make a homemade awl with replaceable attachments? How to make a handle for an awl from a car adapter How to make a boot awl.

Which is not considered a homemade product by everyone. Because before, people did not go to the store for an awl, but made it themselves. And therefore, such technologies were considered just "everyday" ...

But I am sure that in the conditions of the current urbanized society, even such a simple technology will be useful to someone ...

It all started when my father-in-law called me and asked if I had a strong "grasping" awl. He needs somewhere in a limited space to screw the screws into the laminated chipboard. The screwdriver does not fit, you have to work with a screwdriver! And it is quite difficult to "start" with a screwdriver - you must first pierce the upper decorative layer with an awl, otherwise the screw will slide. And I decided to make an awl and give it to my father-in-law ...)))

In the basement, I had a few files that were caught in rust. (That is, they can no longer be used as files.) I decided to use one of them as a blank for an awl.

So, I needed:
1. Old file.
2. Trimming the cutting from the rake.
3. Cutting the water pipe DU15
4. PVAD glue

The set of tools is also minimal:
1. Drill.
2. LBM (Or emery)
3. Any wood saw.
4. Sandpaper (preferably.)

To begin with, I found a file and a rake handle. (I always have various cuttings for shovels, rakes and other tools in stock, because, in addition to its main purpose, this is a very good material for making various wooden handles ... Well, like now, for example))))) :

Since the working part of the file in my product will, on the contrary, play the role of a shank, I put it next to the handle and marked on the last segment with a marker, slightly longer than this working part:

After that, I sawed off the part of the cutting I needed:

When making wooden handles for a tool, it is imperative to reinforce the front part with a metal ring before hammering in the shank. This is necessary for two reasons - firstly, when you hammer the shank, the tree may crack, and secondly, then, when working with the tool, it is this part of the handle that will bear the maximum load, and the tree may not withstand.

I decided to make a metal ring from a DU15 water pipe. Using an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel, I cut off about 2 cm of the pipe:

Next, I prepared a seat for this ring, for which I marked the required distance on the tree ...

And cut an annular cut along the mark. (The depth of the cut is such that approximately the outer diameter of my metal ring remains in the tree:

By the way, for such, rather rough, and, at the same time, small woodwork, I use just such a saw, which I made from a drywall hand saw. (I just made the routing and sharpened the teeth like in a hacksaw on wood):

Then, with a knife that came under my arm, I chipped off the extra diameter, leaving it a little more than necessary, and narrowing it only at the end so that the ring would fit a little:

..And hammered it all the way with a hammer:

Then, having installed an emery-petal wheel on the "grinder", I processed the resulting handle, rounding off the edges of both metal and wood:

Having installed a drill in the electric drill chuck, the diameter of which is slightly less than the diameter of the file shank, I drilled a blind axial hole in the workpiece. At the same time, I did not use a vice, but held the workpiece in one hand, and the drill in the other.

I know that this is a gross violation of safety regulations, but I have extensive experience in such work, and therefore, for me, such an operation is quite safe. I always, if it is necessary to drill a wooden cylinder "along the axis", I do exactly this: I start "by eye", and then, when the drill has gone deep enough, I periodically release the workpiece slightly, allowing it to rotate in my hand. (I drill at low speeds). Thus, I achieve centering - the wood is soft enough, and if the workpiece "hits", you can correct its position until the drill goes deep.) But I strongly recommend not to repeat my method, but to use a machine, or drill a workpiece fixed in a vice! !!

So, the handle is almost ready. The file can be cased. Before hammering it in, I dipped it in PVA dispersion. It will provide reliable adhesion and strengthen the wood by impregnating it around the metal:

After that, I hammered the file into the handle with a hammer, leaving only its shank sticking out:

I cut off the excess length, clamped it into the drill chuck, and wrapped it with sandpaper, finally processed it. (The process itself was not photographed. Hands were busy))))

I sharpened the awl with the same emery-petal circle:

I figured that for the operation for which I am doing it (punching holes for screws in laminated chipboard), a quadrangular sharpening is better ...

That, in fact, is all. The awl is ready.

Not a single instrument, except for an awl, has yet managed to win such popular love, expressed in numerous sayings, jokes and aphorisms. But finding the instrument itself on the shelves will be problematic. However, everyone can make an awl-hook or its other shape!

What awl is exchanged for soap - varieties of tools

Shiloh is one of those simplest tools, without which sometimes all work goes to hell. For example, you need to pierce a small hole in your leather jacket to carry a keyring, it seems like nothing complicated. But there is no sewing machine at hand, and then throwing begins in search of a gypsy needle or a sharp object capable of making the desired hole, picking with these inconvenient devices in the right place, followed by wounds to the palms, scratched skin and spoiled for the whole day in a mood.

The absence of an awl in the list of our home tools is explained by the not so frequent need for it, although if it were available, you would probably find more than one point of its use.

Plus, when such a need arises, you start thinking - well, you can't run to a hardware store for some kind of awl. That's when we have to buy some kind of tool, then we will buy an awl ... True, when it comes to visiting a hardware store, no one will remember about an awl, until the moment when it is not needed again. And the situation described above is repeated again. This cycle can be stopped in just half an hour, by taking the time to create an awl.... By the way, in this case you will be completely confident in the quality of the tool! But first, let's figure out what this word can mean.

Awl as it is - from clerical to boot!

Stationery punch in a sense can be called a form of evolution of the stationery awl, because once not a single paper production could do without it. It was the clerical awl that was the first to feel the effect of progress, giving way to a more advanced hole maker. An awl of this type is distinguished, first of all, by its rather "flimsy" designs - a thin rod, a plastic handle. However, in order to pierce several sheets of paper, you don't need more.

• A shoe awl, which is often used in shoe shops, has a stronger shaft that can pierce leather and a secure handle.
• The awl-hook is also often called a boot awl, but this is not true, since the previous version should be called. If you really want, then a boot awl-hook. Its main difference from a conventional awl is the tip of the tool in the form of a miniature harpoon.
• An awl with an eyelet, it also sewed a sewing one, differs in that at the end of the point there is a needle-like eyelet of different sizes. In many ways, the tool is capable of performing the same functions as the crochet version, but still, in terms of strength, it is inferior to him, therefore, much more often this type is used in tailoring to work with suede, fabrics or soft leather.
• The triangular awl allows you to work with especially hard materials, since the presence of three faces gives the rod a special strength. However, the holes are larger than with a conventional awl.
• The awl knife is a special type of tool that has gained popularity among connoisseurs of pu-erh tea. The fact is that pu-erh is supplied in compressed bricks or tablets, which should be divided into layers before use, preferably without damaging the compressed leaves. It is for these purposes that an awl knife is used, which, unlike a conventional tool, has a flattened and sharpened tip, which is convenient for peeling tea.

We do an awl with our own hands - a convenient modification

The awl itself is not multifunctional. However, with your own hands you can make exactly one that is able to bring together all the functions performed by different types of awls. This is achieved due to the ability to change the head with the rod. And making a set of rods is not difficult.

For work you will need: a wooden handle, which you can take from an old file, a piece of sandpaper, an 8 mm bolt up to 4 cm long, a 3 mm bolt or screw 1 cm long, a wrench for the size of a large bolt, drills with a diameter of 6 mm and 2.5 mm , a drill (or even better - a drilling machine), a tap for threading, several bicycle knitting needles, preferably from old, Soviet wheels, as well as a bar or electric sharpener. The second can be used if you have experience with such a tool.

How to make an awl with your own hands - a step by step diagram

Step 1: prepare the pen

If the pen is new or has not been in service for a long time, it must be properly sanded with sandpaper to get rid of burrs or dirt. After that, we drill a hole in the handle with a depth equal to the height of the eight-millimeter bolt.

Step 2: making a bolt-attachment

The eight-millimeter bolt will act as a nozzle for different rods. To do this, we drill two holes in its head with a 2.5 mm drill - one directed into the bolt, about 2-3 cm deep, and the second is drilled from the side in the hat, trying to cross the first drilled hole as accurately as possible.

Step 3: attach the bolt to the handle

Lightly drive the bolt into the prepared hole and then screw it in to the full possible depth using an open-end wrench. The tighter the bolt fits, the better.

Step 4: thread

In the side hole with a tap, cut a thread for a three-millimeter bolt.

Step 5: preparing the rod

Bicycle spokes are made from alloy carbon steel, which is often used in tool making, so there is no better option for an awl. We cut the knitting needle to the length we need and grind the tip on, trying to get an even tip. Please note that an awl that is too long loses its strength with every millimeter of length, it can bend at the most inopportune moment, so it is better to make a short tool.

If you want to make a rod for a crochet hook, flatten the end of the knitting needle with a hammer, cut a notch for the thread in the middle of the flattened section. You can cut the groove with a file or a small grinder with a diamond disc. The second option is more convenient, since the groove is narrower and deeper. The notch should be at an angle, directed towards the tip, so that it is convenient to grip the thread. When the notch is ready, file the point to form a miniature harpoon.

Then, to get rid of small burrs that will interfere with your work, take a nylon thread lubricated in GOI grinding paste, adding a drop of machine oil to this. We clamp the rod in a vice with the tip up and hook the thread to the notch. We drive the thread from side to side for at least 20 minutes to get a perfectly flat groove surface. All that remains to be done is to insert the desired rod into the fasteners we have made and tighten it with a small bolt. At your leisure, you can replenish your collection with rods of different length, thickness and shape.

Greetings to all lovers of making something out of nothing.
Today we will make a universal handle with a collet clamp. This handle can be useful both for working with files and for an awl, drill and other tools with a shank of a suitable diameter.

Required tools.

1. Angle grinder.
2. Electric drill, preferably two.
3. Industrial hair dryer.
4. Sharpening machine.
5. Gas burner (if required).
6. Vise.
7. Drills.
8. Wrench.
9. Sheet asbestos.

Consumables and donors.

1. Defective file.
2. Baking dish handle.
3. Hairpin.
4. Cap nut.
5. Cutting disc 1 mm thick.
6. Epoxy resin.
7. Threads.
8. Sandpaper.

In one of the sets of needle files, there was such a miracle.

Most likely a marriage. It was impossible to use it for its intended purpose and it was decided to make an awl out of this, so to speak, a file, especially since the old awl from a bicycle spoke did not justify itself.

First, let’s temper the metal, since the file is too fragile. To do this, warm up the file with an industrial hair dryer. For safety, we do this on an asbestos sheet.

After that, we clamp the file into the drill and round it off, carefully bringing it to the side plane of the rotating stone of the sharpening machine.

The final finishing is done with sandpaper.

The awl is ready, it's up to the holder. In our bins, there was a handle from a baking dish for all kinds of nuts, bears, and so on. The form itself was safely remelted and the pen came in handy.

Let's make a collet clamp and the handle will be universal. There is already a thread in the handle, but you need to drill a hole for the file shank.

Next, we take a hairpin with a suitable thread and drill a hole strictly in the center. We came across a hardened hairpin, it was one torment to drill it, so we first annealed it with a gas burner. We also use asbestos for safety.

In order to drill the pin in the center, it is advised to clamp the drill in a vice and the pin in the drill chuck. If the farm has two drills, then we clamp both the drill and the hairpin into the chuck and drill towards them, the drilling accuracy increases significantly. The main thing is to drill at low speeds.

We screw the cap nut onto the stud until it stops, clamp it in a vice and use the drilled hole as a guide to drill.

Now the most important part. We make two cuts in the hairpin, cross to cross. This must be done very accurately and carefully, if you doubt your ability to own a grinder, it is better to use a hacksaw for metal.

In this design, only the nut should rotate, so the pin in the handle must be wedged. To do this, we wind a thread on the thread, coat it with epoxy resin and, with some effort, twist it into the handle with a wrench.

In order to speed up the drying of the epoxy resin, heat it with a hair dryer.

Naturally, the nut can be painted, this will give the product a finished look.

Any good shoe repairman has a shoe hook in his arsenal, which is simply indispensable in this matter. Such devices can be of different thickness and length. But the services of a master cost money, so many decide to independently repair their favorite boots, sandals, boots. You can purchase such a hook ready-made or make it yourself from scrap materials. In this article, we will give a few examples of how to make a DIY shoe stitching hook.

Steel wire boot hook

At home, you can make a hook for stitching shoes with your own hands from reliable steel wire. You just need to check if it is suitable for this purpose.

Important! Try bending it a little:

• if it does not bend, then you have found the necessary material;
• if it breaks, you can throw it away right away.

Such a simple, at first glance, device has some secrets. It is very important that the hook is strong and able to hold the thread without damaging it as it passes through the material.

Materials and tools required for work:

• Wire.
• Sandpaper.
• A hammer.
• File.
• Wooden handle.
• Electric sharpener.

Plantar hook manufacturing scheme:

• For work, prepare a spring wire with a diameter of 2.5-3 mm.
• It is necessary to rivet one edge with a hammer, but this should be done evenly. The riveting area should be no more than 10-15 mm, but keep in mind that the point will still have to be refined with an electric sharpener or file. This will reduce the diameter of the wire to half its thickness.
• Clamp the workpiece in a vice, then at a distance of 5-7 mm from the end of the edge, which we riveted in the previous step, make a cut at an angle of 45 degrees. It is necessary to reach half of the rod.
• Use a thin file to work over all edges and sharp edges.

Important! If this tool is not at hand, you can use fine-grained emery paper.

• Then check the quality of processing with a boot thread, you need to hook it and hold it in the place where you saw it, then pull it with effort, imitating sewing. If the thread does not come loose, then everything is fine and you can proceed to the next stage.
• Sharpen the point with an electric sharpener or file. As a result, you should get a smooth transition from a flat to a rectangular section at the end.
• Remove any scratches with sandpaper.
• Slide a wooden handle over the rod.

Important! Using such a hook for repairing shoes, of course, you cannot insure it against breakage, since it all depends on the intensity of its use and the quality of the selected wire. But for homework, such a tool is quite enough.

Awl for DIY shoe repair

In modern hardware stores, such a simple tool as a shoe awl is less and less common. It must necessarily have a comfortable handle and a head for clamping a temporary point or a special attachment, hook or spatula. With everything you need at hand, you can independently make such a tool that will serve you for more than one year, in just ten minutes.

For work, you will need a set that includes:

• A piece of sandpaper.
• Wooden handle.
• A bolt 4 cm long with a diameter of 8 mm with a head of at least 4 mm.
• Bolt 1 cm long with a diameter of 3 mm.
• Adjustable wrench that matches the size of the bolt head.
• Drills with a diameter of 6 and 2.5 mm.
• Drilling machine or drill.
• Tap and knob 3 mm.
• Bicycle spoke.
• A bar or a sharpening machine.

The procedure for making an awl looks like this:

• Take a pen and sand it well with sandpaper to remove all beads, cracks, ribs.

Important! Remember this is the most important part in awl. Any burrs can hurt your hand while working. Therefore, carefully twist the paper-wrapped pen.

• Take a bolt, drill two holes in the head with a 2.5 mm drill. One hole should have the depth of the bolt itself, the second about 2-3 cm, but you cannot drill to the end. In this case, the second should be located perpendicular to the first. If you did not manage to do everything clearly perpendicularly, do not be discouraged, because the main thing is that these two holes do not intersect.
• Then drill a hole in the handle with a diameter of 6 mm and a depth equal to the height of the bolt. Lightly hit the bolt on the handle, then use an open-end wrench to screw the bolt into it.
• Tap the thread on the head of the bolt.
• Cut off the desired piece of steel bar from the bicycle spoke, grind it with an abrasive stone. Insert the finished rod into the handle, then tighten it with a bolt.

Important! If necessary, you can make a whole set of interchangeable hooks, then refine the awl with them, soak the handle with linseed oil or paint it with paint.

They gave away such a car adapter as unnecessary, I don't know if it is working or not, I have no place to check it and nothing on it. He was lying around for a week, he even began to think about sending him to the scrap, because he was constantly interfering. In addition, there is a whole bunch of wires in the house from a variety of equipment, and then there is this skein, which will definitely never come in handy. But at the last moment, something I liked with its shape, the body of this adapter. I decided to gut it and make a handle for an awl out of the body.

The adapter is very easy to disassemble, just unscrew the nut from the end that holds the fuse. Then remove the metal ring from the end of the halves.

After that, you can cut the body elements in half and remove the electronic insides from them.

I sent the board with the wire to the trash, but I decided not to throw out all this iron ammunition, they very nicely finish with themselves, the appearance of the handle.

I picked up a self-tapping screw for the awl of a suitable length, besides, they already have an almost finished shape, you just need to grind off the thread from it and the awl is ready. The main thing here is not to grab a raw material similar to a nail, but modern self-tapping screws for the most part are all hardened to some extent. I squeezed it into a screwdriver to evenly grind the spiral off it.

On an electric grinder, it is very easy to give the awl the desired shape, but unfortunately I do not have one. Therefore, I first tried to grind the self-tapping screw with a dremel. But after 5-10 minutes, this mini disk turned into dust almost completely, and the comb on the screw only slightly dulled.

I tried to grind it by hand with an ordinary bar. This is certainly not a rewarding business, to sharpen the red-hot pieces of iron by hand. But still, the turning process went much faster than with the rustling of a dremel.

A few hours of work (with smoke breaks, otherwise you can earn a teak) and our carnation is ready. :-)

In principle, you can poke around in a wall or chipboard with such an awl. But since I do not make an awl for my uncle, but for myself, I decided to bring it to a mirror shine. Here I acted in the same way as when sharpening this chisel, that is, from coarse-grained sandpaper to fine.

Actually, an almost finished awl, something like before and after. I decided to do the finishing polishing with zero after I glue the awl into the handle.

He broke down all the unnecessary and interfering partitions inside the halves and tried on the sting.

I drilled a hole in the cap that previously held the fuse.

To make it easier to center the sting in the handle, I wrapped it with copper wire. With the wire, it will not dangle in the hollow handle and will be easier to align. In addition, the wire will serve as a reinforcement for the epoxy resin.

I sealed the holes from the former contacts and the LED with tape.

Then he covered all the cracks with plasticine through which the epoxy could seep.

From plasticine, he erected sides around the hole through which the wire used to come out of the adapter. This hole will serve as a filler neck for the resin, well, the sides so that during the pouring process, the entire handle does not shred with resin.

Mix and pour in epoxy. I tried to pour a little, so that the air from the handle had time to leave.

After the handle is filled with resin, we periodically look at the level and, if necessary, add resin almost to the very edge of the plasticine sides. In general, you should always leave a supply of resin in the neck, as it is always easier to grind off the excess than to add resin to the resulting shells.

The next day, I peeled off the plasticine and removed the tape.

Since the plasticine also pressed on the top of the adhesive tape, the resin took the form of a pressed adhesive tape on the former terminal terminals. In principle, I knew that there would be depressions here, as I wrapped it with tape, but these holes do not really spoil the overall picture. It was necessary to wrap something hard, for example, a piece of plastic or tin.

I blew it off with a dremel and cleaned it with sandpaper.

After I cleaned off the plasticine and smoothed out all the irregularities with sandpaper, I carefully polished the awl to a shine with a zero.

Actually, the awl is ready.

A fragment of the video with this homemade awl.

Basically we use an awl to make small holes for seeding self-tapping screws into a wall (chalk) or chipboard, when assembling furniture, etc. Therefore, I grinded the self-tapping screw to a minimum, almost only removed the spiral, well, and sharpened the tip a little, because we do not need a very thin awl. If you need a less powerful awl, then you should choose a self-tapping screw of a suitable size. This is if you want to go the same hard way in making it. If you can find a spring or spoke of a suitable thickness, then half the battle is already done. All that remains is to saw off, sharpen and come up with a handle for the awl. Well, the simplest thing is to buy a ready-made awl, I think its price will not be so astronomical.