However, in order for food to stay in it for a long time, it is necessary to provide effective ventilation. In this article, we will tell you how to properly make a hood in a cellar.

How it works?

Natural ventilation must have 2 pipes: supply and exhaust. It is best to use a galvanized or asbestos pipe when constructing a structure. It is also important to correctly calculate the diameter: 1 square meter of the basement should be provided with 26 square meters. cm of the duct area.

It is necessary for fresh air to enter the cellar. For greater efficiency, it must be installed in the corner, which is located on the opposite side of the hood installation site.

Important! Choose a place for installing the supply air duct so that it does not get clogged with snow in winter.

The supply air duct should be positioned so that its open end is 40-60 cm from the floor. It should completely penetrate the ceilings and rise above the roof by about 80 cm.

Thanks to her, the outflow of stale air from the cellar will occur. It is recommended to install it along the corner so that the lower end is under the ceiling.
It should run in an upright position through the entire cellar, the roof and extend beyond it by 50 cm.

In order to collect less condensate or frost in the duct, it is insulated - another one is inserted into it, and the distance between them is filled with insulation.

Ventilation in the cellar with two pipes is carried out due to the different specific gravity of warm air inside and cold outside.

If a large temperature difference occurs, there is a risk of a draft, which will lead to the freezing of the cellar.
To prevent this, during construction, gate valves are used on the air ducts, which allow you to adjust the air circulation.

System types

To date, two types of ventilation systems are installed: natural and forced... The choice of one or another option is influenced by the volume and layout of the basement.

Forced

The design of the forced system includes pipes, but in order to provide forced air movement, fans are built into them.

Did you know? The need and benefits of ventilation were known many centuries ago. However, there were no special structures at that time - just airing was carried out.

Usually, the fan is installed in the exhaust duct. With its help, it is possible to achieve an artificial vacuum in the cellar, thanks to which fresh air can enter the room through the inlet.

Fans of different power are selected depending on the volume of the cellar. If the basement has complex configurations, fans are installed on both channels.
When constructing a forced exhaust, you cannot do without the help of a specialist who will help you correctly calculate the intake and output of air flows, the diameters of the required air ducts and the power of the fans.

Natural

The main idea of \u200b\u200bcreating a natural hood is to take into account the difference in pressure and temperature in the cellar and outside it. It is very important to correctly determine where the pipes will be located.
It is better to place the inlet opening at a height of 25-30 cm from the floor, while the exhaust outlet should not be lower than 10-20 cm from the ceiling. If placed below it, dampness and mold will soon appear on the ceiling.

How to make calculations?

If you decide to make a do-it-yourself hood in the cellar, you should pay special attention to the calculations related to the pipe diameters.

When constructing professional ventilation, complex calculations and formulas are used that are inappropriate for a homemade design. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with a technique that will be suitable for the construction of homemade ventilation.

Important! Be sure to cover the opening of the pull-pipe with a metal mesh, as without it, rodents and insects can enter the cellar.

S \u003d 3x2 \u003d 6 sq.m.

Considering the ratio that we took as a basis, the cross-sectional area of \u200b\u200bthe pipe channel will be:

T \u003d 6x26 \u003d 156 sq. Cm.

We calculate the radius of the ventilation duct using the formula:

R \u003d √ (T / π) \u003d √ (156 / 3.14) ≈7.05 cm

D≈14 cm \u003d 140 mm.

If there is only supply ventilation (the exhaust is represented by a hatch), the cross-section of the inlet pipe can be slightly increased - an air duct with a diameter of 15 cm is quite suitable.

To ensure effective air exchange, it is recommended to install a chimney with a diameter 10-15% larger than that of the inlet.

An air duct with the following diameter is suitable for the exhaust duct:

Dv \u003d Dp + 15% \u003d 140 + 21≈160 mm.

Installation of ventilation pipes

In this section, we will tell you how to properly ventilate the cellar and what you should pay special attention to.

Where to locate

The supply air duct is led out from the ground surface. Its lower end should be located almost near the cellar floor, at a distance 20-30 cm.

To install the chimney, choose the opposite corner of the basement, carry it close to the ceiling. One of its ends is brought out through the ceilings to the roof.

To improve the efficiency of the ventilation structure, use the following advice: place a deflector on the pipe above the roof surface.

By covering the pipe with a cap, you can create negative pressure, which will increase the efficiency of the ventilation system.

Did you know? In ancient Egypt, ventilation was first actively used. Priramida Cheops has a huge number of air ducts.

Material selection

For the construction of the hood, the following materials are usually used:

Asbestos-cement pipes are very similar to slate pipes, which is why they received the same name. Both materials are quite durable, highly reliable and durable. Installation of polyethylene pipes is easy to carry out independently.

Installation

When installing the ventilation system, pay attention to such moments:

• When installing the system in a ready-made cellar, you will need to make a special hole in the ceiling.
• Through this hole it is necessary to lower the pipe into the basement - it will draw air. Fix it at the top, next to the ceiling.
• The part of the pipe that is outside the room must be raised at least 1500 mm above the ground or above the roof.
• In the opposite corner of the basement, it is necessary to make a hole in the roof and install a supply pipe through it. It must end in the distance 20-50 cm from the floor.
• The supply air duct should not protrude too much from the roof. It will be enough to raise it to 25 cm.
• When installing the supply pipe in the wall, a deflector must be put on its outer end.
• If the house has a fireplace or stove, an outlet pipe should be installed near the chimney.

Important! Improper ventilation or lack of it will lead to the formation of musty air, which must seep into the house and can negatively affect people's health. To prevent this, regularly check the presence of traction.

There is nothing difficult in installing a ventilation system, the main thing is to follow all the rules and recommendations.

In order to keep the cellar in good condition and store food in it for a long time, you need to take care of the microclimate.
It is very important to keep the humidity in the basement low. To do this, periodically ventilate the room. It is recommended to keep doors and dampers open during summer. Gusts of warm wind will quickly drain the cellar.

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Pipe on the roof and attic: types, functions, installation rules

What pipes do you think can be found on the roof and attic of an apartment or private house? Probably, only the chimney and ventilation will pop up in the memory of the dear reader. Meanwhile, the list of possible options is noticeably longer. I want to talk about the types of utilities that pass through the roof or are in close proximity to it in this article.

The photo shows the roof of an apartment building with ventilation and sewerage outlets.

Announce the entire list

The following are usually displayed through the roof:

• Pipes for removing combustion products from a furnace or boiler;

They are needed mainly for solid fuel boilers with natural draft. For example, modern gas boilers are usually equipped with a coaxial (double) pipe that runs through the nearest outer wall. Combustion products are removed through the inner pipe, air is taken from the street from the outside for gas combustion.

• Ventilation terminals;
• Fan outlets of sewer risers.

Three more types of pipelines can be found in the attic:

• Heating supply filling. It is taken to the attic in so-called top-filling systems;

• Jumpers between risers in the bottom filling system (when both the supply and return of heating are divorced in the basement). Most often, these jumpers can be found in apartments on the upper floor, however, their location in the attic is more rational: in this case, starting the heating system and bleeding air from the paired risers does not require the presence and participation of residents;
• The same jumpers between the hot water risers.

Chimney

Functions

The functions of the chimney are quite clear: it allows you to divert combustion products outside the house. The exit of the pipe through the roof prevents them from getting to windows and balconies.

Mounting

Key requirements for the design and installation of chimneys are set out in SNiP 41-01-2003. For the convenience of the reader, I will present them here.

A separate chimney is provided for each boiler or stove. The exception is two stoves located in the same apartment and on the same floor. They can use a common chimney.

I happened to live in a stalinka, which was designed for wood-burning cooking stoves. During its construction, the rule "one pipe - one stove" was not obligatory for the builders: the apartments were connected along the riser by a common smoke channel in the kitchen.

The pipe section is determined by the heat output of the furnace. SNiP gives the following values:

For a round pipe, the internal section area should not be less than that indicated for rectangular pipes.

The minimum height of the chimney from the grate of the furnace to the mouth is 5 meters. Less is impossible: in this case, there will not be sufficient draft in the chimney for its effective operation.

An increase in draft reduces the efficiency of a furnace or boiler, since the combustion products leave the house without giving up all the heat. An excessive increase in the length of the chimney will mean an increase in heating costs.

The height of the pipe above the roof must be equal to or greater than the following values:

• For a flat roof - 0.5 m;

If a parapet or ridge is located within one and a half meters from the chimney, the height is measured not from the roof surface, but from them.

• When located at a distance of 1.5 to 3 meters from the ridge of a pitched roof, the part of the pipe protruding above it should not be lower than the ridge. The same restriction applies to the parapet;
• If the chimney is 3 meters or more away from the ridge, it should not be lower than a line drawn from the ridge down at an angle of 10 degrees to the horizon.

Chimney material can be used:

• For a wood stove or boiler - clay brick, heat-resistant concrete, asbestos cement and a stainless steel sandwich pipe with a non-combustible insulation between the walls. At the same time, the maximum permissible operating temperature is 300 C for asbestos cement and 500 for stainless steel;
• If coal is used as fuel, the pipe can only be made of brick or made of heat-resistant concrete.

The mouth of the pipe must be protected from precipitation, and the umbrella must not restrict the escape of smoke.

The pipe cut on the roof or in the ceiling (thickening of the brick chimney, providing the required degree of thermal insulation) should be 70 mm thicker than the pie of the roof, floor or ceiling. If the chimney is laid in a solid wall or a partition made of combustible material, the cutting is performed to the full height and thickness. The gap between the groove and the wall is filled with a non-combustible material (usually basalt wool).

How to run a pipe through a slate or profiled sheet roof?

It is produced between the rafters, at a distance of at least 15 cm from non-combustible supporting structures and at least 30 cm from combustible structures. A box is constructed around the chimney, which is sewn up from below with a sheet of galvanized iron lined with sheet asbestos. The box is filled with basalt wool or fine-grained expanded clay.

A hole is cut in the roofing material for the pipe. The slate is cut with a grinder with a stone or diamond disc, profiled sheet and metal tiles - with the same grinder, but with a metal disc.

How to bypass a pipe on a roof, making its connection to the roof airtight?

• From the pipe down the slope under the roofing material, but on top of the waterproofing film, a tie is laid - a galvanized sheet with a flange. Its upper edge is wound up into a shallow groove in the chimney. At the bottom of the ramp, the tie opens into the gutter;
• Additional waterproofing of the roof pipe in the chimney along the perimeter of the chimney is performed with heat-resistant silicone sealant;
• Roofing material is laid on top of the tie with a minimum gap;
• The wall profile is installed last along the perimeter.

If the roof is made of soft material (bituminous shingles or roofing material), it is laid with an overlap on the pipe. The top of the overlap is pressed with a metal bar, which sits on the sealant (preferably with the upper edge coming into the groove).

When bypassing a round pipe, the general principles of waterproofing remain the same, only the shape of the tie and the abutment bar change.

Ventilation

Functions

Ventilation ducts ensure continuous renewal of indoor air. This is necessary for two reasons:

1. The oxygen content in the air of living quarters decreases as a result of breathing;
2. Air humidity increases due to the vital activity of people and pets, cleaning, washing, cooking, etc.

Condensation on the windows is the first sign of insufficient ventilation.

In general, for residential premises, ventilation is calculated based on an air exchange of 3 cubic meters per hour per square of area. There are exceptions to this rule:

• In bathrooms and toilets, ventilation should allow 7 to 9 cubic meters per square meter of area per hour;
• In the kitchen, the minimum ventilation capacity is 60 m3 / hour with an electric stove or a 2-burner gas stove. An increase in the number of burners to three entails an increase in the minimum productivity to 75 m3 / h, to four - to 90.

In the recent past, exhaust ventilation in apartment buildings only worked through kitchens, lavatories and baths; in the living rooms, the air was renewed only due to the inflow through the cracks of the window frames. Now projects include the presence of exhaust, supply or supply and exhaust ventilation in each room.

It is extremely simple to obtain the air flow rate through the ventilation ducts, which exactly corresponds to the calculated one: it is enough to install exhaust fans of the appropriate capacity in the premises.

SNiP 41-01-2003 prohibits the installation of forced exhaust ventilation without forced air flow in houses with stoves and boilers with natural draft. Ventilation ducts should work only with natural urge - due to the difference in the density of hot and cold air. The instruction is associated with the danger of overturning the draft in the chimney when the air flow rate prevails over the inflow.

Mounting

To bring ventilation to the roof can be used:

• Asbestos-cement pipes;
• PVC ventilation pipes;
• Conventional sewer pipe with a diameter of 110 - 200 mm.

In addition, the outlet of the ventilation duct can be a concrete or brick superstructure on a flat roof.

Regardless of the material, the outlet of the ventilation duct is supplied with an umbrella - a deflector that protects it from precipitation. The deflector also increases traction in windy conditions.

Sealing and sealing of the ventilation outlet is carried out in the same ways as in the case of a chimney.

Faced with the problem of installing ventilation in the attic, I solved it like this:

• A gray sewer pipe with a diameter of 110 mm was used as a ventilation duct, laid between the roof and the gypsum plasterboard suspended ceiling;
• The ventilation was brought out not through the roof, but through one of the gables above the window. This made it possible to do without sealing the connection: the roof overhangs reliably protect it from precipitation;

The pipe behind the gable is installed with a minimum slope away from it. Thus, I excluded the flow of water in the rain along the surface of the pipe.

• A duct fan was installed in the compensating branch pipe opening the ventilation pipe. Its power supply is dimmed. The presence of a dimmer allows you to adjust the ventilation performance depending on the weather and noise level requirements;
• A tee is installed on the ventilation duct in front of the fan from the room side. Through one of the taps, it takes air from the bathroom located in the middle of the attic, through the second - from the space between the suspended ceiling and the attic roof. Thus, continuous ventilation of this space is ensured;
• Ventilation grilles are installed in the suspended ceiling for air suction in the four corners of the attic.

Sewerage

Functions

Why do you need a sewer outlet to the roof?

In the sewer riser, a thrust is inevitably created: the moist air heated in contact with the drains rises up. If the riser is hermetically sealed on top, it will saturate the kitchens and bathrooms on the upper floors with the aromas of the sewage system. Of course, provided that the connections of plumbing fixtures to the sewer are leaking.

With a salvo discharge of water (for example, with simultaneous flushing in two toilet bowls along the riser), the vacuum that occurs after the passage of the water front can disrupt the operation of water locks in the siphons of plumbing fixtures. Then the smell of sewage will penetrate even into those rooms in which all connections to the sewer are carefully sealed.

Free air exchange with the street solves both problems: traction transports the aromas of wastewater outside the house, and with a salvo discharge of water, the sewage system will be able to suck in air through the fan outlet.

Mounting

The sealing of the pipe leads outside the roof is carried out in the same ways as in the case of ventilation.

One of the solutions to the waterproofing problem is to install a rubber cap on the sealant.

Several nuances:

• Up to four risers can be combined with a common fan outlet;
• The horizontal sections of the funnel must not have counter-slopes. The price of non-compliance with this rule is the accumulation of condensate in areas with a negative slope. Water filling the pipe will disrupt the normal operation of the ventilation of the risers;
• In a private house, a funnel outlet is installed at the top of the sewerage system. I have it mounted on a sewer pipe running along the facade of the house, transporting drains from the attic floor to the septic tank.

Heating filling

Functions

What does the movement of the heating supply to the attic give?

1. Extremely simple start of the heating system. You just need to fill it, open both house valves in the elevator and bleed air from the expansion tank in the attic. For comparison: in the case of bottom filling, you need to bleed the air in the lintel between each pair of risers;
2. Uniform heating of all heating devices on each floor. The drop in the temperature of the coolant as it moves from top to bottom is compensated by an increase in size.

The inconvenience lies only in a more complex discharge and start-up of a separate riser with your own hands: in the case of an overhead filling, it must be turned off both in the basement and in the attic.

Mounting

The filling is mounted with a constant slope along its entire length. An expansion tank is placed at the top point, collecting air when the circuit starts. Each riser is completed with:

• A valve that allows you to turn it off independently of the rest;
• Blanking plug. It will allow the riser to suck in air during discharge and prevent water from hanging in it.

Removal of the riser from the filling. Instead of a plug, a relief valve is installed - a ball valve.

In ventilated attics, both the filling and the sections of the risers located above the attic floor are thermally insulated. As a rule, glass wool or mineral wool, rags and knitting wire are used for this purpose. Thermal insulation reduces both inappropriate heat losses and the likelihood of freezing of the circuit during short-term stops of circulation in winter cold.

Jumpers

Functions

Regardless of which risers are connected by jumpers - heating or hot water - jumpers perform one function - they provide continuous circulation of water. Why is it needed in the heating system - I think there is no need to explain.

On hot water supply, jumpering two or more risers solves two problems at once:

• Provides almost instant hot water supply after opening the tap. In houses with dead-end distribution of hot water risers, water has to be drained for a long time to heat it;
• Provides continuous operation of heated towel rails. In new buildings, they are mounted in the break of the riser, and not in the hot water supply.

Mounting

There are more than few requirements for the installation of jumpers in the attic:

1. An air vent (Mayevsky valve or a conventional valve) is mounted at the top of the bulkhead. It is needed to remove air plugs from the risers;
2. If there are brackets (bends in the vertical plane), the air vent is installed at the top point of each bracket;
3. The lintel above the floor level is thermally insulated.

Conclusion

I hope that I was able to answer all the questions that the dear reader has accumulated. As usual, you can explore more information by watching the video in this article. I would be grateful for your comments and additions. Good luck, comrades!

August 2, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

A gardener's dream is to have his own spacious and dry basement for storing vegetables from the garden, conservation and other household items. How to make the ventilation of a home cellar technologically correct? To equip a good storage facility in a private house, it is necessary to equip it with a supply and exhaust air exchanger. Competent hood in the cellar will ensure optimal humidity and temperature conditions.

Optimization and quality of ventilation depend on the correctness of its arrangement. The correct operation of the air exchange system is simple. The space in the basement provides 2 ducts for the supply and exhaust structure. Through one - fresh air enters the room, through the other vapors are removed from the cellar.
When the underground storage has a small area, air exchange is created in the cellar with one pipe. But the efficiency of a single channel system will be low.

Proper ventilation of the cellar is characterized by the following factors:

• maximum performance indicators are achieved due to the supplied risers of a certain diameter to the holes;
• the quality of the system is determined by the location of the exhaust and inlet openings above the basement;
• cellar ventilation pipes are mounted into the walls if the basement is located under the garage or under the house, or are led out through the ceiling if the storage is located outside;
• when building a hood for a cellar with your own hands, you need to take into account the installation height of the inlet and outlet channels from the floor;
• the hole diameter must be the same on all channels. Too little - leads to musty air, and vice versa, the arrival of a large amount of cold leads to icing of the food;
• the ventilation device in the cellar implies the installation of supply and output risers on opposite corners or walls. A certain distance is required between the pipes. This arrangement ensures the maximum passage of fresh air through the room, pushing out stagnant air;
• openings for the outlet of stagnant air are made under the ceiling;
• the ventilation exhaust duct is located above the basement embankment. Its length, for the normal functioning of the duct system, must be at least 150 cm:
• to organize the ventilation of the subfloor, PVC pipes of the same diameter are used;
• when arranging a supply and exhaust structure, it is necessary to achieve a direct location of communications. Bends and turns obstruct the passage of air;
• to maintain an optimal microclimate in the basement, it is recommended to install dampers. In the cold season, they regulate the flow of cold air;
• sections of the air circulation channels outside are covered with a grill, mushrooms and must be insulated.

Guided by the above tips for arranging ventilation in the cellar, you can achieve optimal ventilation of the underground storage.

Varieties of supply and exhaust air exchange system in basements

Depending on the layout and floor area, the type of hood is selected. There are several types of air exchange system in basements.

Natural ventilation

The ventilation device in the cellar by the type of natural ventilation is based on the difference in temperature indicators and pressure outside and inside the room. The effectiveness of the work depends on the correct placement of the holes. The supply duct is placed at a height of 25-30 cm from the floor, and the exhaust duct is 10-20 cm from the ceiling.

Forced system

The forced air exchange design consists of two pipes with built-in fans that make the air move, creating artificial vacuum in the room. Their capacity depends on the size of the basement.

Combined ventilation

Creating air exchange inside the subfloor, choosing hoods, it is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of the construction. It can be located under a residential building or garage, located separately on the street. These factors affect the correct duct capacity.

Underfloor in the house: we create ventilation ducts

Ventilation in the cellar under the house has two purposes: it ensures the comfort of living in the house and storing food in an accessible place. An improperly functioning ventilation system negatively affects the comfort of living - leads to the penetration of musty and stale air into the home
What should be the hood for the cellar so that the storage conditions are optimal and the owners' stay comfortable? To arrange ventilation of the room under a residential building, use the forced method, with a stationary fan installed on the exhaust outlet or a natural view.

System features

Ventilation of the cellar under the house has its own nuances:

• the supply channel is mounted through the foundation of the building;
• the fresh air pipe should not have many bends, turns, contractions and extensions;
• when bringing the holes out, it is necessary to ensure that they are not covered with dirt, snow;
• to prevent condensation, the outer part is insulated;
• the pull-out bend is placed along the wall.

Most often, in residential buildings, a basement is built under the kitchen.

Basement under the garage

Arrangement of ventilation of the cellar under the garage means maintaining the microclimate in the underground room for storing things and food, as well as preventing dampness. The hood is structurally divided into the following options:

1. natural - due to the difference in pressure and temperature inside and outside. Natural circulation of air is a popular low cost option. It assumes the presence of two holes with pipes made of metal, plastic or PVC.
2. Artificial cellar ventilation - ventilation is forced by means of installed fans. Their work is controlled by a monoblock control.
3. a combined method that allows you to combine the above two types.

What hole diameter is required for the ventilation system?

Determining the required pipe size ensures optimal operation of the cellar ventilation system. Professional designers perform a complex algorithm for calculating the diameter of pipes, but a simplified form is used for independent construction:

• for a basement area of \u200b\u200b1m², a channel cross-sectional area of \u200b\u200b26 cm² is required. Let's take an underground storage 4x3 m as a standard.
• we calculate the area: S \u003d 3x3 \u003d 9 m ².
• for such dimensions, a pipe with a section is required: T \u003d 9x26 \u003d 234 cm².
  ) \u003d √ (234 / 3.14) \u003d 8.6 cm
• the diameter is calculated as Dп ≈17 cm \u003d 170 mm.

Knowing the required dimensions, you can proceed with the subsequent installation activities.

Installation work

Do-it-yourself ventilation in the cellar is easy. But the correctness of its construction depends on the knowledge and skills of the home owners. Guided by the advice of professionals, you can independently build air exchange in the basement.

1. If the ventilation system is installed in a finished basement, then a hole is made in the ceiling for the outlet of the air duct.
2. An exhaust pipe is led through a niche and is fixed under the ceiling.
3. From the street, the outlet channel rises 150 cm above the ground level.
4. In the opposite corner, the air inlet through the wall is mounted and lowered down. It is placed at least 20 cm from the floor.
5. The inlet in the yard must be lower than the inlet. This ensures natural traction.
6. A deflector, a fungus and a mesh are installed on all outputs of the supply and output system.

Drying the subfloor

Drying is considered the simplest method of ventilation in the cellar. If there is high humidity in the room, then it needs to be warmed up.

• to ensure a favorable microclimate, the basement is recommended to open all doors and hatches. The room is completely dry and ventilated.
• containers with hygroscopic substances are used: table salt or quicklime, which perfectly absorb moisture and dampness, disinfect the air.
• the installation of a burning candle in the exhaust duct increases the intensity of traction. Air circulation is significantly increased, and harmful vapors are removed from the room.
• drying the room with wind-driven heaters, portable stoves and electric heaters is considered the simplest and most affordable way.

It is better to start drying in the summer. Natural ventilation with warm air gives the maximum effect.

Waterproofing measures

Coating an underground room with waterproofing compounds allows you to maintain optimal temperature and humidity conditions inside.
There are several isolation options:

1. for concrete walls, deep penetration impregnations are used, with which all surfaces are processed. Each layer penetrates the concrete, creating a waterproof and breathable surface.
2. roofing material is used as an insulating material. The sheet is laid on a surface treated with mastic.
3. clay is an environmentally friendly material that also retains moisture well.

In addition to the above options, other means are used, but the above ones are distinguished by their availability and safety of use.

How to correctly ventilate the cellar? There are some tips:

1. In winter, it is better to cover the hood so as not to contribute to strong cooling of the basement. For this, old blankets and rags are used, which are placed on a steel grate in the hole.
2. Overdrying the cellar is also harmful. You can increase the humidity to the optimal level using a spray bottle (sprinkle water occasionally) or boxes with wet sand.
3. The air temperature in the basement should not be the same as outside. Fans installed in the ducts of the system are used to drive out musty vapors in an underground room.

A well-equipped ventilation system is the key to maintaining the microclimate in the basement. Do-it-yourself cellar ventilation is an opportunity to create an ideal storage for vegetables and conservation.

Competent ventilation device in the cellar - theory and practice

The cellar is a brilliant human invention that can be put on a par with the invention of penicillin and automatic washing machines. Thanks to the presence of this underground room, a person was able not only to grow a crop, but also to preserve it. A special shape, a thick layer of earth above its top and proper ventilation of the cellar made a special microclimate, in which the temperature and humidity were the same almost all year round. The correct microclimate did not allow a person's agricultural reserves to deteriorate, as in the summer heat and in the most severe winters. And in this, ventilation plays an important, and perhaps the main role.

Basement and cellar: purpose and main differences

We want to make a reservation right away that the cellar and the basement are completely different premises, with different tasks. The basement is the basement of the building, which is part of the house. This floor can be used as a storage room for any supplies, various things, sports and tourist equipment. In basements, many owners of private houses equip boiler rooms, garages and gyms.

In fact, the basement is a place for the installation of utilities at home. Thanks to this space, a person has good access to them. In addition, the basement plays the role of an air gap between the floor and the ground, which is very important in terms of thermal insulation of the premises of the house.

A cellar is a room made, as a rule, underground, which is intended exclusively for storing products, mainly for agricultural purposes. It can be safely called an underground storage facility. It can be located both inside the house and as a separate building. If it is part of the house, then very often the ventilation system in it is used by the common house. If the underground storage is a separate element from the house, then its own ventilation is done in it.

Duct requirements

Air outlets are divided into two groups, supply and exhaust. In addition, they can be round or rectangular. Round pipes are the most popular, but take up more space, and rectangular boxes, with the same cross section, take up less area, but have a high cost. They also differ in the material from which they are made. The most common are PVC pipe and galvanized metal air duct.

Advice:
The higher the chimney, the better the draft, and therefore the ventilation in the cellar. If the underground storage is not part of the basement of the house, then the issue of fixing the chimney becomes quite acute. It can be secured with guy ropes, with lanyards installed on each for pulling. The simplest and most effective way to fix the air duct is to enclose it in a wooden insulated box, which is fixed in the ground with concrete.

Calculation of the cross-section of air ducts and the choice of fan power

For effective ventilation of the underground storage, it is necessary that the air ducts can pass the required amount of air masses through themselves, and this depends on their diameter. How to find out what section of air ducts is needed to equip an effective ventilation system of the cellar with your own hands? You can find out the exact diameter of the air ducts in two ways:

1. Order a calculation in the appropriate organization. This will give you a guarantee that all calculations will be made correctly. True, this procedure is not the cheapest and for the calculation you will need to pay an amount that may exceed the cost of organizing the entire cellar.
2. Perform the calculations yourself, while you have to remember the arithmetic, but it will be absolutely free. Which method to choose is entirely up to you.

In order to make the ventilation of the cellar with our own hands, we need to find out the volume of the room for storing food and the frequency of air exchange. The recommended air exchange (how many times the air in the cellar is changed) is from 2 to 4, depending on the products stored in it.

• To find out the volume of a room, you need to multiply its length by its width and height. Consider a cellar with dimensions of 2 mx 3 mx 2.5 m \u003d 15 cbm
• To find out the amount of air passed per hour, you need to multiply the volume of the cellar by the recommended rate of air exchange. Consider the average value 3. As a result, we get that 15 cubic meters x 3 \u003d 45 cubic meters must pass through the cellar in 1 hour

We find the cross-sectional area of \u200b\u200bthe air ducts using the following formula:

• S - recommended air speed
• L - air flow.

In our case, the air flow velocity is 1 m / s. (norm for natural ventilation).

We get the cross-sectional area of \u200b\u200bthe duct:

45 / (1 m / s x 3600) \u003d) 0.0125 sq.

We calculate the data for the radius of a round pipe:

• R - duct radius (mm)
• F - duct cross-section (mm.kv)
• π - constant \u003d 3.14

Based on the data, we get:

The radius of the round duct we need must be at least 125 mm

Now let's move on to calculating the performance of the exhaust fan. You can use a simplified technique. To do this, you need to multiply the volume of the room by 12. In our case, it is 15 cubic meters x 12 \u003d 180 cubic meters / hour. The performance of an exhaust fan for a cellar with an area of \u200b\u200b6 sq. M, with a ceiling height of 2.5 m is 180 cubic meters per hour.

We equip the cellar ourselves

Many people ask: "How to make ventilation in the cellar?" Now that all the calculations have been made, money has been saved, we proceed to purchase air ducts and equipment. To install a combined ventilation system, we need:

• The required amount of PVC pipe with a diameter of 125 mm.
• One end tee for condensate drain.
• One brass or plastic tap for tapping into end tee.
• Pipe fasteners.
• Exhaust fan with a capacity of 180 cubic meters / h. Important! The fan is installed inside the chimney, so look for a model that will fit the diameter of your ducts.
• The required amount of wire, with a cross section of at least 1.5 mm2, plug.
• Round air intake grille with a diameter of 125 mm - 2 pcs.
• Metal mesh, from the penetration of rodents into the cellar 15 cm x 15 cm.
• Deflector. The purchase of a deflector is optional. It serves to increase the draft in the exhaust duct in the event of a power outage and the fan stops.

Airing in an underground food storage room, which is located under the house, is somewhat easier. Moreover, all calculations remain the same, and the fastening of air ducts is easier. Exhaust - should exit through the basement, and pass from the outside of the house. The height of the chimney should be 0.5 m higher than the roof ridge.

Master's advice:
Before installing the exhaust pipe, install a fan in it and fix it with standard fasteners.

Using our tips, we hope you can easily equip your underground storage facility with the right ventilation system.

Proper ventilation in the garage cellar

It is unnecessary to talk about how important proper ventilation is in the garage cellar. Everyone knows that without ventilation, the cellar is damp and the food stored there quickly deteriorates. In addition, if raw air from the cellar enters the garage, it leads to corrosion of metal objects in the garage, including the car.

Natural ventilation of the cellar in the garage - diagram

In general, everyone understands the need for proper ventilation in the garage cellar. But not everyone knows how to make ventilation in the garage cellar.

Let's start with the fact that there are three types of ventilation in the garage, cellar and lookout:

• natural,
• combined,
• mechanical.

Natural ventilation in the garage cellar

Natural ventilation is used in small garages and cellars. Its main advantage is availability. However, in summer such ventilation is ineffective or does not work at all, and in winter it is necessary to periodically check the condition of the ventilation ducts. They can become clogged with snow or grow with frost inside.

• Advantages:
  • no energy source needed,
  • noiselessness,
  • availability.
• Disadvantages:
  • instability of work,
  • the need for periodic checks and cleaning of pipes,
  • impossibility of any adjustments,
  • inability to use filters.

Natural ventilation in the garage cellar is done in accordance with the following rules:

• the supply and exhaust pipes are usually located in opposite corners of the basement;
• in the cellar, the end of the supply pipe is burnt out at a height of 0.3-0.5 m from the floor;
• in the cellar, the end of the exhaust pipe should be at a height of 1.5-2 m from the floor;
• if the exhaust pipe is mounted completely outside the garage, it must be insulated (one should distinguish between through-pipe installation - through the garage room, and wall-mounted - outside);
• the minimum height difference between the inlet and outlet of the ventilation system (they are located outside) is 3 meters;
• the entrance opening from the side of the street is closed with a lattice or net (from rodents and large insects);
• it is advisable to cover the exhaust pipe with a visor, or even better - with a diffuser increasing the draft;
• The approximate diameter of the exhaust pipe in centimeters can be obtained by multiplying the garage area (in square meters) by 1.5;
• The diameter of the exhaust pipe can be 10% of the diameter of the supply pipe.

Natural ventilation in the garage cellar - device options

Remember that every additional bend in the ventilation pipe reduces the efficiency of the entire system. By the way, pipes made of almost any material can be used to ventilate the garage, cellar and viewing room.

Combined ventilation in the garage cellar

You can increase the efficiency of natural exhaust by installing a light bulb in the exhaust pipe, which will heat the air and further increase the draft. As an alternative to a light bulb, you can use a candle - in this case, you can do without electricity. However, it's better to install a fan. This is the best way to transform a natural ventilation system into a combined ventilation system.

As you may have guessed, combined and natural ventilation in the garage cellar differ from each other only by the presence of a fan on one of the air ducts. When off, the fan will create a slight additional resistance to air flow. But by turning it on, you can ensure effective ventilation of the cellar, regardless of the season and weather conditions.

Forced ventilation in the garage cellar

Forced ventilation in the garage cellar

Forced ventilation in the garage cellar is ensured by the constant operation of the fan. Let's take a look at the advantages and disadvantages of such a system:

• advantages:
  • stability of work;
  • the ability to adjust efficiency, air heating;
  • the possibility of using an air filter.
• limitations:
  • constant energy consumption;
  • the complexity of installation;
  • significant cost of some components;
  • the presence of wearing and breaking parts.

Forced ventilation is based on the same principles as natural ventilation. After all, the natural movement of air should help, not interfere with the operation of the fan.

Forced ventilation in the garage cellar can be provided by a duct fan

When installing forced ventilation in the garage cellar, special attention should be paid to safety. This applies to the installation of electrical wiring, installation of switches and fans. It is best to choose duct fans.

As for filters, heating the air and adjusting the operation of the hood - all this requires additional costs and is done as needed.

Cellar

The microclimate in the cellar depends not only on ventilation. The material of the walls and floor, the quality of waterproofing and insulation work are all very important factors. Do not skimp on such things, do not think that proper ventilation in the garage cellar can completely compensate for the flaws during its construction. Try to make a high-quality cellar in the garage, it is quite possible that you can then do with natural ventilation.

Hello! Sandwich garages are my passion. I can talk about them day and night. I can and I tell \u003d)

Dry cellar: we do the right ventilation

The dream of every gardener is to have a dry and spacious cellar, the air in it should be fresh, but without drafts. In order to build such a miracle storage with your own hands, it is necessary to provide it with supply and exhaust ventilation. Competent ventilation of the cellar will allow you to maintain an optimal temperature and humidity regime for storing vegetables, relieve it of excessive dampness and humidity, and prevent the appearance of mold. Knowing the basic rules for the device of natural ventilation, you can make the cellar dry yourself.

Natural ventilation is the right device:

• to ensure good ventilation, 2 pipes are installed: supply and exhaust;
• air exchange will be better if the ventilation pipes are located in two levels and, if the design of the storage allows, in different places, which will avoid the intake of fresh air;
• the exhaust ventilation pipe is placed at the top - under the very ceiling;
• the supply pipe of the cellar ventilation, on the contrary, at the bottom at a height of 50-60 cm from the floor;
• the figures below show the correct and incorrect device for the extraction of the cellar;

• using a larger number of ventilation pipes with a smaller cross-section is undesirable, which is especially important for the northern regions;
• with such a cellar ventilation device, air exchange occurs due to the difference in the specific gravity of warm indoor air and cold outdoor air. This is a natural process, therefore, the ventilation of the cellar according to this scheme is called natural;
• the exhaust pipe must be brought out above the ridge of the roof and insulated (it is made double) in the place where it passes through the cellar or attic. The draft in the exhaust ventilation pipe is the greater, the higher it is;
• the cross-section of ventilation pipes depends on the size of the cellar. So, with a cellar area of \u200b\u200b6-8 sq. m, the exhaust is required to be made with a section of 120x120 mm, but if the cellar is equipped with only one pipe, then its section should be at least 150x150 mm;
• for the manufacture of ventilation pipes, boards with a thickness of 30-40 mm are used. They are well adjusted, tightly knit together and supplied with valves (latches) and dampers, which will allow you to regulate air exchange and temperature and humidity conditions;

• if the cellar is small, then one two-channel wind-collecting pipe is enough for its ventilation (see figure). With this design, the pipe has two channels - one for air flow into the cellar, the other for exhaust. Each channel can be equipped with an independent valve;

• ventilation of some types of cellars (for example, if it is located under the garage) can be equipped through a hatch covered with a grate. From above, the lattice is insulated with an old blanket or other insulation;
• you can check the effective operation of ventilation by attaching pieces of thin paper to the outlets of the pipes. If there is convection, the paper will begin to flutter;
• the second way to check if the ventilation of the cellar is working is to put a bucket of hot coals in it. By the movement of smoke from the coals, one can observe the air currents inside the vegetable store;
• insufficient ventilation is easy to detect by the following signs: stale and musty air; mold; feeling of dampness; condensation on the ceiling, bins, walls, shelves;
• to reduce humidity, the cellar must be ventilated. To do this, the internal doors are made lattice and in the fall everything that can be opened is opened - hatches, doors, latches. At the same time, a box filled with coarse table salt or quicklime is brought into the cellar (they not only absorb moisture, but also disinfect the air);

• if, on the contrary, it is necessary to increase the humidity in the cellar built with your own hands, then you can spray water, sprinkle the floor in the cellar with wet sawdust or put a box filled with wet sand.

When the cellar is in the garage

Cellar ventilation in the garage is important not only to maintain the temperature and humidity necessary to ensure the safety of food, but also to eliminate dampness in the garage. Cellar extraction options in the garage:

1. natural - based on the temperature difference between outside and inside the basement, causing continuous air circulation. Natural ventilation of the cellar in the garage is the cheapest option for the hood.
2. forced (artificial) - the air flow is forced by means of fans. Fully mechanized basement ventilation under the garage using a monoblock or software-controlled modular system starts at $ 1,000;
3. combined - includes elements of natural and forced ventilation of the cellar.

as in the case of the cellar in the house, in most cases natural ventilation is used to ventilate the cellar in the garage, the performance of which is quite sufficient for small volumes of vegetable storage. The natural ventilation scheme of the cellar in the garage also provides for at least two pipes made of resistant materials. The most suitable material for ventilation pipes is metal or plastic, such as PVC. Below is the ventilation diagram: on the left - the standard diagram; on the right is a diagram of the ventilation device of the cellar in the garage, which provides ventilation of the garage itself.

As you can see from the diagrams, proper ventilation of the cellar in the garage includes:

• supply and exhaust, located on different sides of the room. The best placement is in the far opposite corners;
• ventilation pipes must have the same cross-sectional diameter along their entire length;
• the fewer bends and turns at the supply and exhaust pipes of the cellar ventilation in the garage, the better. Ideally, they should not be at all;
• the supply pipe is located as close to the floor as possible. The opening of the pipe is closed with a net to prevent rodents and other small animals from entering;
• the bottom of the chimney - as high as possible (closer to the ceiling);
• the top of the chimney is positioned as high as possible - at a distance of\u003e 0.8 - 1 m above the ridge, and in the case of a pitched roof, it is counted from its highest part. The high location of the exhaust pipe of the cellar ventilation in the garage improves traction and excludes the drift of its outlet end by snow;
• air exchange is regulated through control dampers built into the supply and exhaust ventilation of the cellar in the garage. Dampers allow you to dry the cellar, regulate both the inflow and outflow of air. Dampers are indispensable for ventilation of the cellar in the garage in winter in frosts, when it is necessary to dose the volume of air renewal, otherwise stored vegetables and preparations can be frozen;
• from above, both pipes are protected by canopies, protective covers or deflectors. This will prevent the ingress of atmospheric precipitation inside, and also, in the case of using a deflector for the hood, will create a vacuum area around it, which will increase traction;
• warm air escapes through the chimney, so condensation can form inside it in frosty weather. The condensate freezes, which reduces the area of \u200b\u200bthe air passage up to the complete blockage of the air duct. To prevent such a situation, the pipe must be insulated, especially in the place where it passes through the roof. For insulation, materials are used that are resistant to water. In addition, the pipe must be periodically cleaned of snow in winter, and to facilitate the process, the outlet of the pipe is made removable. This will allow only the clogged portion of the pipe to be cleaned.

Proper natural ventilation of the cellar in the garage will ensure constant air circulation, and most of the room will be involved in air exchange. The cost of natural ventilation of the basement is insignificant, large costs are not required, you can keep within 1,500 rubles (purchase of consumables, and make the ventilation device yourself). The main disadvantage of natural exhaust: in the case when the air temperature outside is equal to or higher than the air temperature in the cellar, air exchange stops.

allows you to equip a cellar hood in the garage so that the air exchange process does not depend on weather conditions. To do this, it is necessary to modernize the exhaust pipe: an electric fan is placed in it, creating an air vortex. Thus, the air is expelled from the room, which ensures the flow of fresh air through the supply pipe. It is possible to organize air exchange through one passage (use a double-leaf pipe). The forced method allows you to organize the ventilation of the cellar in the garage and ensure constant air exchange in the summer, when the natural method is powerless.

If you wish, you can arrange for the cellar in the garage ideal storage conditions for food, for which a fully mechanized basement ventilation is installed. In this case, the supply and exhaust of air in the room is provided by a monoblock (modular system) and is controlled by software. The cost of such installations can exceed $ 1,000.

When the cellar is in the house

The ventilation of the cellar in the house performs two functions at once: it provides suitable conditions for storing food and does not allow the deterioration of the comfortable living of people in the house. Improper ventilation of the cellar in a house can negatively affect comfort and coziness: dampness in the cellar and musty, stale air easily penetrate into the living quarters, and all residents of the house will have to breathe this air. A tightly closed lid or cellar door will not save the day.

The optimal ventilation scheme for the cellar in the house is shown in the figure. The scheme is suitable for both natural and forced (artificial) ventilation:

• the compulsory method provides for the installation of a stationary fan; this method is used for air exchange in large-volume vegetable stores. The fan for the cellar is placed on the exhaust air duct;
• for natural ventilation, the fan is also used, but not permanently, but temporarily - it is installed for several days to dry the storage.

Features of ventilation of the cellar in the house:

• the supply pipe is laid through the part of the foundation located above the ground, then through the basement of the house;
• the supply pipe should have a minimum number of bends and a minimum length, should not have narrowings and expansions;
• when arranging ventilation of the cellar in the house, it is necessary to ensure that in winter the supply pipe does not fill up with snow;
• the part of the chimney located in a cold place must be insulated to prevent condensation;
• a cellar ventilation hood is placed inside the wall of the house or in a special ventilation duct, which usually runs along the wall (for example, from the kitchen). In order to collect all the ventilation ducts together, it is better to make the cellar under the kitchen.

How to make ventilation in the cellar of a garage and a private house

Unlike ground-based buildings, in the basements of private houses there are no conditions for airing and removing excess moisture. In order for the vegetables and fruits stored there to retain their fresh appearance longer, it is necessary to organize constant air circulation - inflow and exhaust. There is no need to hire specialists for the ventilation device of the cellar, since you can do it yourself when you read our publication.

Basement ventilation methods

There are 2 types of ventilation systems used in the basements of residential buildings, garages and other sheds:

1. With a natural impulse. In the vertical channel that goes out into the street, there is a thrust due to the difference in heights and temperatures outside and inside the cellar.
2. With forced impulse. The movement of air masses is provided by one or more fans.

Reference. In a proper cellar, the air temperature throughout the year fluctuates within very narrow limits (from 5 to 12 ° C), so it is relatively warm in winter and cool in summer.

For the vast majority of underground storage facilities, natural air exchange is quite sufficient, even if it has a large area. In winter, the indoor air is warmer and lighter than outside, which encourages it to rise through the ventilation duct leading to the outside. The only condition: the inflow must be compensated for by the hood, so that the cold and heavier air mass displaces the heated one, otherwise circulation will not occur.

In summer, when it is cool in the basement and hot outside, natural draft is significantly weakened. And although most of the storages are empty during this period, they need to be prepared for winter - ventilated and dried. We will tell you how to do this below.

It is better to lay ventilation ducts during the construction phase

Forced ventilation is an expensive pleasure and is not used unless absolutely necessary. This need arises in the following situations:

• with long-term storage of fruits and food, requiring certain climatic conditions;
• when the basement is used for other purposes, for example, as a gym or boiler room;
• if the storage consists of several rooms where you need to create a different microclimate;
• in summer, when drying is needed, artificial air exchange is organized temporarily.

Supply unit in a vegetable store

An important point. The air flow forced into the cellar must be warmed up in winter. Thoughtless installation of a supply or exhaust fan without an additional heating system will lead to rapid deterioration of vegetables as a result of freezing.

Calculation of the dimensions of the ducts

In order for the ventilation in the cellar to function efficiently and at the same time to minimize the effect on the temperature in the room, the pipe diameters should be chosen correctly. The latter must pass a certain volume of air, no more, no less. According to the generally accepted method, the cross-section of the duct is calculated as follows:

F \u003d L / 3600 x ϑ, where:

· F - section size, expressed in m²

· Θ - speed of the air flow in the pipe, m / s;

· L - required amount of air, m³ / h.

Now in order. With natural and forced ventilation, the flow moves through the channels at different speeds. In the first case, it is 0.5-1 m / s, in the second it can reach 8 m / s. To calculate the natural draft, put the value 0.5 m / s in the formula.

To correctly determine the value of L, you need to calculate the volume of the basement and multiply it by the rate of air exchange (a number indicating how many times in 1 hour you need to update the air in the room). For storing vegetables, the multiplicity rate is 2, which means that for a cellar with dimensions of 3 x 2 x 2 m, 12 x 2 \u003d 24 m³ of fresh inflow per hour will be needed. If we count on this example further, we get the cross section:

24/3600 x 0.5 \u003d 0.013 m².

Using the formula for the area of \u200b\u200ba circle, we determine the diameter of the channel, in our example it is 0.13 m or 130 mm. We select a pipe from the assortment, the nearest one is 150 mm (it is necessary to take a larger size, not a smaller one).

When it is necessary to arrange ventilation of the basement with mechanical induction, the air ducts are counted according to the same method. The optimal speed of movement is 8 m / s, and the demand L is taken according to the purpose of the room. For example, the exchange rate for the gym is 3, then the inflow rate in the basement 5 x 10 x 3 m is 150 x 3 \u003d 450 m³ / h. The fan performance should be the same, and the diameter of the air ducts due to the high speed will be the same - 150 mm.

Forced exhaust scheme using a duct fan

Natural extraction device

As a rule, the extraction in the cellar is carried out according to the standard scheme with two channels - supply and exhaust. As the latter, an inexpensive PVC sewer pipe of one diameter is used.

Supply air outlet

Air ducts must be installed according to the following rules:

1. The chimney begins in the upper zone of the vegetable store, not lower than 20 cm from the ceilings, otherwise the overlap will begin to "sweat" from below.
2. The top of the exhaust duct rises as high as possible to provide good traction. Ideally, the pipe cut should be at the level of the roof.
3. Place the bottom of the supply air duct 30-50 cm above the floor, it is enough to bring the top to the level of the base.
4. If the cellar is a separate structure, then put the canals vertically with a passage through the ceiling, avoiding turns. A similar scheme can be implemented in the garage by passing the pipes through the ceilings.
5. Install air ducts from basements under a private house or a shed with a minimum number of turns. To go through the wall and bring the channel out, 2 bends are enough.
6. Cover the ends of the pipes from precipitation with metal umbrellas, and additionally cover the supply with a mesh. Since it is low, you need to block the path to the rodent cellar.

Council. To prevent condensation from forming inside the exhaust channel and not freezing on the walls, insulate it with mineral wool mats 50-70 mm thick, wrapped in roofing felt.

Ventilation with one pipe will work if you arrange the inflow through the front door

In some cases, ventilation in the basement of the garage is usually performed with one combined pipe, divided into 2 sections by a longitudinal partition. It serves as both supply and extract air. This method is ineffective, since there is no height difference between the channels. In addition, the holes are located in one place, rather than spaced around the corners of the cellar for better circulation. How to arrange proper ventilation under the garage is shown in the video:

Often on the Internet there are tips for improving natural draft with the help of deflectors - metal nozzles for the exhaust air duct. The device shown below in the photo, when blown by the wind, creates a vacuum zone around the pipe head, which increases the thrust. The stronger the wind blows, the more air the deflector helps to suck in from the basement. But for the winter period, this is not a very good solution, and here's why:

• in order for the deflector to function normally, it must be removed from the leeward zone, that is, raised above the roof;
• how much air goes outside, so much will enter through the supply air duct, which is why, in severe frost and wind, all supplies can freeze;
• if you try to regulate the air flow with the damper, then with each change in the weather you will have to adjust it.

More information about natural ventilation of cellars is described in the following video:

Draining basement rooms

The cellar must be prepared annually for the winter season - well ventilated and dried. There are several ways to get rid of moisture and musty odors:

1. The simplest way is to open the door or hatch to the basement and ventilate it before the cold weather.
2. In the summer, when the natural draft weakens, the temporary installation of a deflector helps to resolve the issue.
3. A fan, attached to the lower end of the chimney, allows the room to dry quickly and well.
4. The folk remedy is a lit candle installed under the exhaust duct. By heating the air around it, the flame initiates an increase in natural thrust.
5. Place a wood-burning stove in the cellar or bring in a charcoal brazier.

Electric heaters - heat guns and convectors give a good effect. But since it will take 2-3 days to drain the basement, such devices will have time to wind you a decent amount for electricity.

Conclusion

From the foregoing, the conclusion suggests itself: the best option for ventilation of the cellar is a natural exhaust hood and an inflow installed by yourself. Done correctly, your basement storage will be dry and warm during the winter, which is what your food supplies require. The costs are minimal: only pipes are needed, and any - PVC, asbestos cement, galvanized metal, and so on. The main thing is that their diameter is close to the calculated one.

Basement or cellar ventilation is an important component of the proper operation of the premises. Without an air exchange system, dampness is actively spreading, excess moisture is formed. The cellars and basements store not only conservation, but also stocks of vegetables and fruits, which tend to "breathe". Lack of fresh air supply and moist air outflow invariably leads to the accumulation of condensation.

During the construction of the basement and foundation, mistakes are often made in terms of the device of the waterproofing layer. In this case, the walls can accumulate moisture from the outer space in their structure, absorb it from the soil. It is quite simple to level all the above omissions and undesirable manifestations - to organize effective ventilation of the cellar or basement of an apartment building, for example.

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Basic requirements for carrying out work on arranging cellar ventilation

Almost all modern private houses are built with a basement. This is one of the most effective ways to obtain several tens of square meters of usable space without compromising your main home. It is customary to equip gyms, saunas, storage rooms and food storage facilities here. Even in the 21st century, most cellars are used as cellars.

When arranging them, you must adhere to certain recommendations:

• Strict temperature control. It is customary to equip the cellar in such a way that the room is in contact with the outer wall of the residential building.
• No light source. This condition is mandatory. It is allowed to turn on the lighting for a short period.
• Inflow of pure oxygen. The condition is easy to implement if the ventilation in the basement functions well and copes with the removal of dirty air.
• Humidity mode. The humidity level in the cellar should not fall below 90%.

The key point is high-quality basement ventilation and the presence of an appropriate system in principle. Effective air exchange will not only allow food to be stored much longer, but will also eliminate the risk of mold and mildew formation, which often happens in high humidity conditions. Functional ventilation of the cellar is an important component necessary to create optimal conditions for storing vegetables, fruits and other products.



How the system works

The principle of the system is based on the basic laws of physics. Having carefully looked at the ventilation scheme in the cellar, one can state the fact that it is arranged extremely simply, but at the same time it is reliable.

To organize a complete system, it is enough to provide 2 ventilation holes for the basement. One of them is necessary to remove excess vapors and air from the room, and the second - to ensure the flow of clean and fresh oxygen. For optimal efficiency, such a system requires two pipes, supply and exhaust.

An important condition for high-quality ventilation in the cellar is the correct location of the air ducts, especially with regard to their placement above the soil level.

Ventilation in the cellar under the house

An equally important stage is the installation of pipes at an optimal height from the floor and their subsequent output to the external space. Incorrectly placed air ducts can supply too much air, which is highly undesirable for fresh food and vegetables stored on the shelves. Too small a diameter of pipes will not allow to quickly remove musty air masses from the room.



Proper ventilation of the cellar involves careful preparation, development of design documentation and study of recommendations for installation work:

• The air exchange system for the basement is laid during the construction phase of the facility itself. This approach simplifies the supply of channels to the walls, where the elements of the ventilation system will subsequently be placed. The location of the pipes should be indicated in the project documentation.
• The pipes for supplying and removing air must be of the same diameter, which will ensure uniform oxygen circulation around the perimeter of the room. If we are talking about an already finished basement, where it is necessary to quickly get rid of raw air, it is allowed to use a chimney of a slightly larger diameter. The reverse order is impossible, since there is a high risk of oxygen retention, gas contamination of the cellar.
• It is customary to place ventilation pipes in opposite corners of the room. The fresh stream takes some time to pass through the entire room and then go outside.
• The air duct opening is made under the ceiling, since warm masses rush upward, which in turn provide the room with constantly pure oxygen.
• Experts strongly recommend installing the chimney 1.6 m above the ridge of the cellar, which is necessary to generate sufficient traction. As for the pipes themselves, the most suitable option is plastic sewer solutions.
• If the object is located under a garage or residential building, the total number of turns of the duct system is minimized. The ideal option is a completely flat and straight pipe of the same diameter along its entire length.
• From the street side, the base of the supply pipe is located slightly above ground level. The outlet channel is necessarily covered with a protective grill so that small debris, birds and animals do not enter the system.
• Pipes installed in a strictly vertical position require protection from precipitation. The easiest way is a metal umbrella, but a more complex one, but an order of magnitude more functional -

In any case, the pipe located outside must be insulated without fail, which will help to avoid the formation of condensation on the walls of the duct in cold weather.

A properly organized ventilation system is complemented with dampers, through which the volume of air supply and exhaust can be regulated, which is very important to maintain an optimal microclimate.



Varieties of cellar ventilation systems

Before you make ventilation in the cellar, you need to decide on the type of system that will be equipped in the room. It can be either forced or natural. The choice in favor of this or that option is determined by the peculiarities of the basement layout, its total area.

Forced air exchange system

Using a fan in the system

The main feature of such a ventilation system is the automatic supply and removal of air, which is achieved by fans located in the pipes. Her work does not depend on the vagaries of the weather and external factors. In the simplest version, it is enough to place the fan at the exhaust duct. Thanks to this design, artificially discharged air is formed in the room in a few minutes, which is actively discharged into the outer space.

For large basements with complex architecture, it makes sense to install 1 fan on both the exhaust and the supply duct. Naturally, without the help of a specialist who can suggest optimal solutions for a consistent and uniform oxygen withdrawal and supply, one cannot do.

Forced ventilation of the cellar in the garage

Natural air exchange equipment

The principle of natural ventilation is based on physical laws. Indoor and outdoor temperature and pressure are different. The effectiveness of such a system depends on the proper placement of the ducts. The exhaust outlet should be located 10-20 cm below the ceiling zone, and the inlet hole should be 25-30 cm from the floor.

For a small basement near a residential country house, this is quite enough, but in all other cases it is better to resort to the forced system.

Calculation of the diameters of ventilation ducts

So how do you make ventilation in your basement? - The task of paramount importance is to select pipes of the required diameter. On average, 26 cm 2 of the duct area is provided for the "square" of the cellar. If we are talking about a small square room, the dimensions of which are 3 x 3 m, then the pipe diameter is calculated in this sequence.

S \u003d 3 x 3 \u003d 9m 2 -total basement area

T \u003d 9 x 26 \u003d 234 cm 2

The radius of the duct is calculated using the formula:

R = √ (T/ n) \u003d√ (234/3.14) ≈ 8.6 cm

Pipe diameter (inflow):

Dp.≈ 170 mm.

Experts advise stopping at a pipe option with a 15% margin for the exhaust duct. Respectively:

Din. \u003d Dп. + 15% \u003d 170 + 26 \u003d 196 mm.

Before installing all the elements, it is necessary to make calculations. Only in this case will the system provide optimal conditions in the room..

Installation of ventilation

After completing the preparatory activities, you can proceed directly to the installation of the system. There are rules that should be adhered to, regardless of what kind of air exchange we are talking about natural or forced.

Step-by-step instructions on how to properly ventilate the cellar:

Do-it-yourself ventilation in the cellar begins with the selection of material; in this case, we will carry out installation using asbestos and plastic pipes. In asbestos we make two holes, one in each pipe (for placing plastic pipes in these holes). The holes must be equal to the diameter of the plastic pipes.

We use a drill or screwdriver to make holes.

Next, we install pipes. The inflow will be carried out through the lower pipe, and the outflow along the upper one. The outflow pipe is installed at a distance of at least 1.5 m above the ground or roof surface. And the supply air at a distance of 20 to 50 cm above the surface.

We put plastic pipes into the room, while we lead the supply pipe to the far corner of the basement. We leave the distance from the floor the same - 20-50 cm. As for the chimney, it is better to mount it as high as possible to the ceiling, since there is the warmest air and thus it will be easier to bring it out.

Left pipe is outflow, right pipe is inflow

We also cement outside.

Cellar Depth 3.5 meters Ventilation system

The nuances of maintaining an optimal microclimate

To maintain an optimal microclimate in such a confined space, a certain sequence of actions must be followed.

• The humidity level in the room is reduced by regular ventilation. In the summer, it makes sense to open dampers, hatches, etc. Due to the temperature difference in the cellar, ventilation will be provided.
• To increase humidity, the practice of spraying water with a spray bottle is used. You can install a box with moistened sand or wet sawdust in the room.

It is much easier to maintain an optimal microclimate in the space with an automated installation. If necessary, you can quickly adjust it at your own discretion.

Drying the cellar

An important aspect of ventilation measures is the drying of the cellar. Experts identify several effective ways to eliminate excess moisture. It is better to spend them in the summer, when there are no food, vegetables and fruits indoors. Hatches, openings and dampers open completely and the space in this form is left for at least 3-4 days. (effective in warm, dry weather) We will also tell you about several forced drying options.

Hygroscopic substances

In 80% of cases, to dry a room, it is enough to limit yourself to installing a small-sized box in the cellar with coarse table salt or lime. Their main feature is a hygroscopic structure, due to which they actively absorb unwanted moisture from the surrounding space.

Installing a household fan

There are domestic fans in every residential building. They effectively remove excess moisture. The device itself is located in the central part of the basement and left on for 3-4 days. All hatches and flaps are pre-opened completely.

Waterproofing treatment

After the cellar is finally dried, waterproofing treatment is carried out for the floor and walls. For this purpose, special protective compounds are used. For concrete walls, it is optimal to use impregnations with structural penetration. They are applied in 3-4 layers.
The consistency will close the pores in the base structure, thereby creating a waterproof material that can "breathe".

The dried basement is often covered with a layer of roofing material. Despite its availability, it is one of the best waterproofing agents. It is very important to lay roofing material on an absolutely flat base. The floor surface is pre-treated with a layer of mastic, on which a protective layer is laid.

Since ancient times, back then in Russia, it was customary to stock up on food for the winter. At that time there were no giants of the food industry, and if people went to the bazaar, they found there exclusively goods from the neighboring cellar. People built dugouts, dug basements without any engineering networks and waterproofing. As a result, the premises were heated with water, food disappeared. About devices such as cellar ventilationand waterproofing the premises were out of the question. The people were not yet so educated and developed.

Things are different now. Knowledge in the design and construction of basements allows you to create the best food storage facilities. When calculating and designing ventilation devices in the cellar standardized rules and regulations apply. They allow you to competently and intelligently organize the basement from the inside, provide an ideal microclimate for storing vegetables and keep the harvest until next year.

Cellar ventilation: basic requirements

By its purpose ventilation device for cellars and basementsis designed to provide moderate and stable indicators of humidity and air temperature. In addition to ventilation, several other factors affect these indicators.

Therefore, immediately before construction, it is necessary to understand and provide for all possible factors that, during the operation of the premises, can affect the basement climate.

Only taking into account all the factors that can affect the functioning of the cellar will help to achieve a certain climate. If something is missing, then you should not scold the ventilation or pin excessive hopes on it. Undoubtedly, she is able to maintain the desired microclimate, but she cannot eliminate the wetting of the wall.

If the basement has a favorable location, good hydro and thermal insulation, then you can proceed to the design and ventilation device.

As with most general residential and industrial premises, basement ventilationhas a source of air inflow from the environment and a device for the outflow of humid, contaminated carbon dioxide masses.

Basement ventilation systems

The most common version of the basement arrangement involves the location of the cellar under the main rooms of a private house. In this case, two variants of the hood device are used:

1. two-channel;
2. single-channel.

The first one is used most often. It has a number of advantages in terms of servicing a cellar with a larger area.

Two-channel ventilation device

The ventilation technology at two points of inflow and outflow has no difficulties in installing air ducts.

Basement ventilation with the ideal development of the building process at home should be calculated at the start of construction. So you will get by with less financial and labor costs.

Air supply pipe.

The inflow device ensures the flow of air masses from the environment by means of air intake through the inlet (air). The air is most often located at the side wall of the main building - the elevation above the level of the house blind area should be 20-30 cm.

The very hole in the pipe is covered with a ventilation grill. The grill can be equipped if necessary. The air duct is laid through the base of the house, the basement ceiling and introduced into the basement. Outlet ventilation stretched almost to the floor cellars, retreating 15-20 cm. Thanks to this arrangement of the ventilation channel, cool air from the street enters the duct, passes through it and enters the basement near the floor. After this, it gradually heats up and displaces the upper layers of warm and humidified air from the basement through the exhaust pipe.

Outflow system for contaminated masses.

It is located in the opposite corner of the cellar room, diagonally relative to the supply pipe. The main principle is the need to capture heated air. This is achieved by placing the entrance of the pipe under the very ceiling of the basement (10-15 cm from it). Further, the exhaust duct passes through the ceiling of the main building, through the attic to the roof.

Depending on the shape of the roof and on the prevailing wind rose, it is necessary to achieve conditions under which the wind will be directed to the previously set one. The deflector is needed in any case, as it protects the pipe from atmospheric precipitation. It also creates additional negative pressure under the cover, due to which the air flow in the pipe is enhanced.

The longer the exhaust air duct, the stronger the blown air flow in it.

The exhaust duct should be equipped in several layers to create the necessary insulation. To do this, at the planning stage of premises and utilities at home:

• mount a brick or wooden pipe well cellar ventilation;
• choose a place for laying insulation between the well and the pipe;
• wrap the pipe itself with a special insulation that will not absorb moisture.

It is necessary to insulate the exhaust air duct in order not to obtain air condensation due to sudden cooling in the cold period.

Regarding the last two points, it is worth noting that only double thermal insulation can provide resistance to freezing of the duct. If the region where the house and the basement are located suggests abnormally low temperatures, it is additionally necessary to make an air gap between the main insulation and the insulation on the pipe itself. Such a solution will significantly reduce the thermal conductivity of the channel as a whole.

Single-channel ventilation

In rare cases, when the cellar area is less than 5 square meters, it is possible to combine the oxygen inflow and outflow channels in one pipe. This is the basic principle of operation of this system and the main difference from the two-channel arrangement. The pipe is divided by a partition, through which two circulation channels are obtained: one for the inflow, the second for the exhaust.

Natural or forced draft?

To deal with this issue, you need to conduct an experiment with an already existing natural ventilation in the cellar under the house.To do this, you need to bring a thin sheet of paper to the outlets of the channel in the basement and determine, by the waving of the sheet, the presence of air movement.

This experiment is suitable for basements up to 10 square meters. If the basement is over 10 square meters, then, even if there is oxygen movement inside the room, the effectiveness of the natural exhaust can be questioned.

For a relatively large room, a hygrometer should be purchased. This device measures air humidity. A thermometer is mandatory for any basement size.

To determine the degree of ventilation, it is necessary to install a device that measures air humidity. It should be installed approximately 1.5 meters above the floor.

This is important, since the humidity will be the highest near the ceiling. But vegetables are mostly stored on the floor. Therefore, it is necessary to measure the average value of the room humidity.

At high rates of the hygrometer (over 85-90%), it is necessary to arrange a forced ventilation schemes in the cellar.

Forced (mechanical) exhaust system

Remake do it yourself ventilation in the cellarwill not be difficult. To do this, you need to install axial fans inside the ducts. This will increase circulation. For the supply duct, the fan is placed at the entrance on a protective grill. Accordingly, the exhaust duct is supplied with a fan directly at the entrance to the basement.