Homemade shower faucet with a propylene pipe. Polypropylene faucet is a modern solution for your communications

Making homemade mixers

To create homemade mixers, you need valves, pipe cuttings, squeegees, a shower net. If we compare home-made mixers (rice, 68, 69), with factory standard ones, then the first, of course, are larger and rougher. The coating on them is colorful. If the pipes are galvanized, then no anti-corrosion layer is needed at all. Homemade faucets like this are not for comfortable bathrooms.

Figure: 68. Homemade shower faucet with stationary shower tube and mesh:

1 - pipe; 2 - valve; 3 - squeegee or barrel; 4 - tee; 5 - shower net; 6 - shower tube

Figure: 69. Homemade bath and shower faucet with stationary shower pipe and spout:

1 - shower tube; 2 - valve; 3 - squeegee or barrel; 4-cross; 5 - spout

Figure: 70. Homemade shower nets:

and - by the type of garden watering can diffuser: 1 - clamp; 2 - shower tube; 3 - diffuser tube; 4 - diffuser mesh; 5 - cone; 6 - nut; 7 - washer; 8 - bolt; 9 - rubber strip

b - from tin cans or one can: 1 - shower tube; 2 - lock nut; 3 - washer; 4 - rubber gasket; 5 - a bank without a bottom; 6 - perforated bottom

in - from the sawing part of the factory flexible hose: 1 - shower tube; 2 - clutch; 3 - branch pipe.

However, when they are sometimes installed in the kitchen or in the bathroom with a centralized supply of hot and cold water, the question arises, why add a couple more valves, if at the entrance to the apartment or individual house there is already a valve for each "grade" of water. Alas, without valves forming the simplest mixer (Fig. 68), it is impossible. Their absence will cause the so-called "pumping": hot water will fall into cold water. Neighboring apartments, the nearest small houses will receive lukewarm water instead of hot.

In a complicated mixer (Fig. 69), the lower valve that takes water into a bath or sink is completely replaceable with a tap (Fig. 73).

However, an intermediate piece is needed - a square, into which we will screw the tap (Fig. 74).

Pay particular attention to the difference between tap and valve (fig. 75).

The valve has only one external thread for connection through a coupling or elbow to the pipe. The valve body has two internal threads for screwing in pipes. When one pipe is screwed in, the functions of the tap and the valve coincide. But only the tap turns the stream of water, and only the valve is placed between the two pipes.

Numbers and an arrow are cast on each valve body. The number 20, for example, means the diameter of the free space that remains for the passage of water after the pipe is screwed into the body.

The arrow on the body must "look" in the direction of the water movement. If the valve is mounted on pipes contrary to the direction of the arrow, then large hydraulic resistances arise. They get in the way by lowering the water pressure. This is very noticeable on the upper floors of houses during peak water drawdowns, and in the garden area - during watering, etc.

However, they sometimes "forget" to cast an arrow on the valve body. What to do? They look into the ends of the valve body, where pipes will be screwed in later. Water must enter through the pipe to the end where the valve, rubber gasket and nut are not visible. To make these details more noticeable, the flywheel is screwed in or out of the stock somewhat.

A garden watering head diffuser is suitable as a shower net in a mixer. The lack of a garden watering can is not a problem. The diffuser is made of large tin cans. Its parts (Fig. 70a) are connected with a special seam, called in the roofing "recumbent seam". The seam is soldered or painted over with oil paint, which prevents leaks and provides sufficient head in multiple holes.

Streams of water from the seam, fountaining into the ceiling under strong water pressure, will also not delight any shower owners.

Two or three notches on the diffuser tube are made on the side that is not soldered before folding. The cuts are preferably made with roofing scissors or, in extreme cases, with large tailors. Using other types of scissors will dull them. The chisel perfectly cuts through the tin on the board, but this is too laborious technology for the production of the diffuser.

The end of the shower tube is wrapped with a strip of thin rubber. The diffuser tube is put on with cuts on the prepared end of the shower tube. The clamp tightens the incisions, securing the diffuser to the shower tube. The water pressure will no longer rip off the diffuser.

Two cans are also the “starting product” for the shower net (Fig. 70b). Although the shower mesh from one can has a more attractive look: the soldering is less noticeable.

The design of the shower net begins with cutting out the lid when opening the can. A hole in the center of the lid is cut out so that the end of the shower tube fits into it with some difficulty. This hole is not easy to cut. Numerous holes punched with a nail, metal-handled screwdriver or chisel along the marked contour will speed up work. It is clear that the jumpers between the nail holes are removed with a chisel or a screwdriver blade.

Use washers, gaskets and locknuts to secure the cover to the end of the shower tube. Holes that form a mesh are punched in the bottom of the remaining suit of a can with walls or in a second can. Operations for "organizing" the net will be more convenient if you put a tin can on a log. Then hammer the outer side of the bottom with a nail and a hammer.

The disadvantage of the design of the shower net from cans is that to connect its parts, you need to unscrew the shower tube from the mixer. Do not solder by weight and at height ?!

It is not necessary to “invent” a shower net if there are parts from a flexible hose of a long-standing factory production (Fig. 70c) plus a branch pipe and a union nut from a standard mixer. It is important that the threads of the branch pipe and the coupling match, and the union nut is screwed onto the corresponding thread of the special nut. If this does not happen, then either they are looking for a branch pipe and a union nut with "related" threads, or they grind parts with the required thread on a lathe.

Figure 71 shows one of the simplest domestic mixers that were produced in past years. "Meeting" and mixing of cold and hot water takes place in a chrome-plated brass tube. The mixture flows out through the soldered nipple. The ends of the mixer through rubber tubes quickly come into contact with taps, fillings of various shapes, etc. It is convenient to mount such a mixer, for example, between a tap on a hot water pipe of an instantaneous gas water heater and a tap on a cold water pipe.

This mixer, suspended above the washbasin, does not "ask for" any extras. But above the sink, a suitable rubber tube is pulled over his nipple, which is moved as needed. When the sink is two-chamber, you simply cannot do without such an additional rubber tube, because the nipple is stationary. This was provided by the designers. There are sinks, on the shelves of which they are mounted on a mixer and on a brush on a flexible hose. Hot water flows through a hose to the brush. A similar hose with a shower net and a holder is included in the set of the described mixer (Fig. 71). This hose is especially suitable when the mixer is above the bathtub, drip tray, etc.

The mixer has disadvantages due to its simplicity of design. To prevent cracks on the thin-walled hose, it is replaced with a “rubber pressure hose with thread reinforcement ...” or “rubber hose for gas welding and metal cutting”.

Figure: 71. The simplest universal-purpose factory mixer:

1 - edge; 2 - rubber tube; 3 - mixer; 4 - special plastic nut; 5 - rubber washer; 6 - case; 7- grid; 8 - a crown; 9 - skeleton; 10 - hose; 11 - special metal nut; 12 - nipple

To prevent the rubber tubes from jumping off the ends of the mixer when it is under water pressure, they are pulled together with clamps or tied with thin copper wire or strong threads. A similar mixer is not difficult to make. You can replace the brass tube with a rubber tube with a hole in the middle. However, it will be more difficult to “cement” the shower tube or hose.

An ingeniously crafted factory holder. The rubber washer is inserted into a plastic housing with an internal thread. This washer is locked by a plastic special nut, which has a hexagon in the center for screwing in and out (Fig. 71, item 4). The holder is fixed to the nipple of the mixer thanks to a 5–8 mm hole in the rubber washer. The diameter of the hole in the washer is two millimeters less than the outer diameter of the nipple. The main advantage of the holder is the speed of taking off and putting on, and, in general, the connection of the hose.

The holder is independently turned on a lathe. The internal hex on the snut nut is not needed. It will be completely replaced by a protrusion with two flats for a regular wrench (Fig. 71, item 11). The option without a holder is also quite possible. It will be replaced by a tubular tee welded from metal tubes or welded from plastic ones. The diameters of the tee pipes are selected according to the available rubber pipes.

Water taps

Desktop crane repair

Tabletop water-folding faucets (GOST 20275-74) include a KTN15 ZhD toilet tabletop faucet with a rigidly fixed spout (Fig. 72a). The lower part of the body nozzle has four lugs evenly spaced around the circumference just above the thread. With these projections, the faucet is secured from turning in the rectangular opening of the sink or washbasin.

Figure: 72. Desktop toilet taps:

and-KTN15ZhD; b - KVN15D;

1 - squeeze; 2 - lock nut; 3 - seal; 4 - short sleeve; 5 - keg; 6 - long sleeve; 7 - metal washer; 8 - nut; 9 - rubber washer; 10 - washbasin shelf; 11 - valve body; 12 - valve head; 13 - spout; 14 - union nut; 15 - plastic ring; 16 - rubber ring

Sinks are not applicable here, because they do not have a shelf for installing a tap.

The gap between the rectangular opening in the shelf and the valve body is not easy to close. If this is not done, then water will flow through the supply pipe when using the tap. The trouble will be not only in the appearance of rust on the pipeline and puddles on the floor.

A wet pipeline will arouse suspicion in an inexperienced owner. Having blocked the access of water to the pipeline, some begin to unscrew it.

This is a flawed technique for finding the root cause of a water leak. Two rubber washers 9, available in the valve kit, when installing the latter, install so as to exclude gaps between the valve body and the quadrangular opening of the shelf 10 ... If standard washers, after tightening the lock nut 2 do not block the gaps, then the washers should be cut from a sheet of rubber of the desired thickness and elasticity.

Clearances arise during the operation of the crane for several reasons: drying out of the rubber, displacement of the pipeline, weak initial tightening of the lock nut. The use of putty, plasticine on dry surfaces is the fastest elimination of gaps. Cement is also good. After drying, it is covered with oil paint.

The shelf itself is rarely horizontal. Here we are talking about one shelf without a washbasin, for the latter may be with some marriage. The roller on the edges of the shelf must not allow water to pass under the sink. Otherwise, you can putty for windows to grease the gap between the vertical rear side of the shelf and the wall to which the washbasin adjoins.

Water enters the shelf of the washbasin in different ways: splashes, leaks from under the gland sleeve and, finally, trickles from under the spout union nut on taps of other modifications. The cause of the leak is established after wiping the valve dry and opening the valve head by the handwheel.

Tightening the stuffing box sleeve usually removes the trickle from under it. Worn rubber rings 16 outflow 13 replace. In the absence of new rubber rings, strands of thread seal are wound on the old ones. 17 , tighten the union nut 14 ... After such a repair, the spout must not be rotated, as the seal will be broken.

Foreign-made ceramic washbasins often do not have holes or holes in the shelves. Consequently, a mixer or tabletop tap cannot be inserted into the shelf. Output: using a wall mixer or tap. But you can very carefully punch the desired hole in the shelf. To do this, turn the washbasin over and put it on a plane so that it does not swing. The shape of the hole on the back of the shelf is outlined. First, carefully knock off a thin layer of glaze with a sharp narrow chisel. Then a deepening is gradually made. You can also drill holes with a carbide drill using an electric drill. It is clear that the second and third holes need to be drilled even more carefully than the first.

The holes weaken the shelf. Before starting such work, try to do it on a piece of faience, on a broken washbasin breakdown, a flush cistern that has served its life, etc. Even experienced plumbers sometimes get a large hole with very uneven edges. Faience can be of different hardness and plasticity. The gaskets and washers available in the valve kit will not block such a hole. Therefore, it is advisable to cut plates with holes from a sheet of aluminum or corrosion-resistant steel and, accordingly, rubber gaskets to them (one plate and one gasket on each side of the shelf). The hole will be completely closed when the plates and gaskets are pulled together with the locknut on the valve body.

Installing or replacing the case 11 faucet, as a rule, is done with the washbasin removed from the brackets. For this, the connector of the inlet pipe must be placed below the bottom of the washbasin or sink. Otherwise, the angle of rotation of the lever or wrench will be limited by the vertical wall of the device and the wall of the room.

Use a squeegee for the connector 1 , that is, a short piece of pipe with an inner diameter of 15 mm and a length of 110 mm. Both ends of the squeegee have a GI / 2 thread. The thread length is longer on one side. The clutch is completely screwed onto it 4 and lock nut 2 .

There are several more modifications of desktop cranes: for KTN10D, a 3/8 "inlet pipe is screwed directly into the body; KVN15D and KTN15D are equipped with a swivel spout, like the KT15D toilet wall tap.

It is attached to the body with a union nut. Sealing is ensured by a rubber ring between the spout and the neck of the body. The ring partially fits into the circular groove in the bottom of the spout. The second groove is located higher. It includes a plastic expanding ring 15 y securing the spout against jumping out of the union nut 14 with high water pressure. If the plastic ring is broken, it can be made from copper wire. Rubber rings are sold. You can cut similar from a suitable rubber tube.

The KVN15D and KTN15AD cranes have aerators on the outlet part of the spout. They are periodically clogged by foreign particles contained in the water. The jet weakens completely. Then unscrew the outer ring of the aerator. Take out the mesh. Blow and rinse in the opposite direction to the spout.

Repair of wall cranes

These include brass specks KV15 (Fig. 73) and KV20, installed through coupling 2 on pipes with a nominal inner diameter of 15 or 20 mm, that is, on pipes 1/2 "and 3/4". The KV15SD crane has a flow straightener and a protective and decorative coating. It is twice as expensive as the KV15 crane, and the KV15AD crane has an aerator and a protective and decorative coating.

Fig. 73. Wall-mounted water-folding tap KV15:

1 - pipe; 2 - clutch; 3 - seal; 4 - sink back; 5 - valve body; 6 - gasket; 7 - crane head

Cranes can be installed anywhere. They are especially convenient in a garden or personal plot. If there is no plug or plug, you can also use a tap.

Specially for these taps, PC-type sinks are produced: RS-1 - with one hole in the back, RS-2 - with two holes. In general, the sink kit includes a backrest and the sink itself with a welded outlet. The set often lacks screws with galvanized heads for fixing the back on the wall. Galvanized screws are rare. Use regular screws, but before installing, coat their heads with white oil paint and let them dry.

A cast-iron siphon-revision is necessary for this type of sinks, because a plastic bottle siphon cannot be fitted here. PC sinks do not have a large hole in the bottom to accommodate a plastic siphon outlet. The metal outlet welded to the bottom of the sink is inserted directly into the water seal of the cast-iron revision siphon. There is a gap between them, through which water can flow when the sewer pipe is clogged. Therefore, screw a seal strand onto the metal outlet of the sink before lowering it into the siphon water seal. Be sure to soak this strand with resin or oil paint, which will protect the seal from decay.

After tightly connecting the outlet and the siphon, coat the joint with cement. To prevent the cement from crumbling, wrap it wet with a strip of gauze or a bandage and coat it with liquid cement on top. This will ensure the tightness of the joint for many years.

PCV-1 and RSV-2 sinks differ from PC sinks in that they are equipped with plastic bottle siphons. The use of wall-mounted taps with sinks and sinks is not practical. The fact is that the closer the "nose" of the tap is to the outlet, the less splashing.

The sink outlet is located at a distance of 150 mm from the wall, and the spout of the faucet is at a distance of 90-105 mm. In washbasins and sinks, the outlets are 180–255 mm from the wall. Position the faucet closer to the bottom of the sink or sink to minimize splashing. You can also put a rubber tube on the spout of the tap.

Some push the inlet pipe along with the valve closer to the outlet. Then, for this, use a galvanized pipe, which will slightly brighten up the visible difference between the chrome-plated tap and the outer color of the pipe.

The KT15D toilet wall faucet (Fig. 74) has undergone a number of changes. In the past, his spout was screwed directly into the body, that is, the spout had one stationary position. When trying to turn the spout from the threaded connection with the body, it began to drip. The spout had to be turned out, the threads of the seal were wound on the threads and again with difficulty it was wrapped in the body.

Figure: 74. Wall-mounted toilet tap KT15D:

1 - pipe; 2 - clutch; 3, 6 - seal; 4 - branch pipe; 5 - valve body; 7 - crane head; 8 - rubber ring; 9 - expanding plastic ring; 10 - union nut; 11 - spout

Now the spout is attached to the valve body with a union nut 10 ... Thanks to the rubber seal ring 8 and an expanding plastic ring 9 the spout can be turned. The rubber ring prevents the spout from leaking, and the expanding ring prevents the spout from falling out from under the union nut. The plastic expansion ring sometimes breaks. Replace it with a ring of copper wire, which you can anneal to "soften". Under the rubber ring, when it wears out, wind up, say, threads or buy a new one at the Santekhnika store. From a suitable rubber tube, you can cut the necessary rings yourself, but in terms of quality and durability they will be worse than the branded ones.

Water supply pipe 1 with an inner diameter of 15 mm (1/2 ") connected to the valve body 5 (Kr67e) through the coupling 2 ... A branch pipe is preliminarily screwed into the body 4 ... In order not to damage the threads, a cut is made on the protruding part of the branch pipe while the branch pipe is not cut off from the pipe. After separating the branch pipe, the burrs are cleaned on it, the seal is screwed on and, using a steel plate, screwed into the valve body. An old style pipe wrench fixed arm handle with a multi-millimeter steel plate handle can be used in place of the plate.

In the KT15D crane, the connection of the body with the supply pipe is simplified. The branch pipe and body are combined, and only a coupling is required for joining.

From the book Plumber: choose and connect yourself author Alekseev Viktor Sergeevich

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Polypropylene pipes are widely used due to their low cost, long service life and ease of installation. Everyone can do the installation of polypropylene pipes with their own hands, the main thing is to properly plan the installation work and know the features of welding polypropylene pipes.

Fig. 1.

Unlike other types of pipes, for the installation of polypropylene, you must have a special tool - this is a welding machine for polypropylene pipes and scissors for cutting pipes. It should be noted that, despite the need to purchase a special tool, polypropylene pipes still benefit from cost, due to the cheapness of the pipes and fittings themselves.

Fig. 2.

Where can polypropylene pipes be used?

Polypropylene pipes have no restrictions on their applicability, with one exception being the temperature of the liquid passing through them. It should not exceed 90 degrees. In this connection, it is not desirable to use polypropylene pipes in heating systems of city apartments, because often the water temperature in such heating systems is more than 90 degrees. For country houses, where the heating temperature is lower, reinforced propylene pipes are perfect.

Fig. 3.

Fig. 4.

Fig. 5.

Fig. 6.

Features of the installation of polypropylene pipes

Installation of polypropylene pipes should be started from the riser, gradually lengthening the water supply line according to the diagram, the location of the plumbing fixtures. During installation, it is necessary to install supports for polypropylene pipes. Also, in the case of a long pipeline length, a compensation elbow should be provided.

Fig. 7.

Since during operation, the length of the pipes will change due to thermal expansion. The expansion elbow will relieve tensile loads on the water supply system, thereby protecting it from damage. Also, when crossing pipelines, you can use a special fitting - a bypass.

Fig. 8.

Of great interest and practical value in the installation of polypropylene pipes with your own hands is the correct selection of fittings. The use of simple fittings such as elbows, tees, couplings and plugs is unlikely to cause major problems. The main interest is the selection of fittings for connecting various devices of the mixer, toilet, counters, etc.

Connecting a faucet for bath and sink

The connection for the bathtub faucet can be done using one of two types of fittings: an installation strip and a "water socket". To connect the mixer, the installation strip is more convenient, because it already provides for the correct mutual position of the holes for connecting the mixer. However, the water outlet is also suitable for this purpose, thanks to the special holes for wall mounting. In the latter case, it is necessary to fix the sockets at a distance equal to the center-to-center distance of the nozzles at the mixer.

Fig. 9.

Fig. 10.

Fig. 11.

When connecting a sink faucet, provided that there are no requirements for the position of the connection holes, it is convenient to use water sockets or combined one-piece fittings.

Polypropylene taps

When installing polypropylene pipes, two types of taps can be used: polypropylene and metal. If the entire water supply system is made of polypropylene, then it is more advisable to use polypropylene taps, it is both cheaper and more convenient.

Fig. 12.

If it is necessary to install a valve in the transition between different types of pipes, for example, metal and polypropylene, or on a riser, then it is advisable to use a metal valve, while using a detachable combined fitting.

Fig. 13.

It should also be noted that if we are talking about the installation of polypropylene pipes in the country, then it is more advisable to use either polypropylene taps or traditional brass, but not ball valves. Quite often, there are cases when water gets under the ball of a metal ball valve and breaks the valve when it freezes. A polypropylene ball valve does not suffer under similar conditions, because polypropylene is a more plastic material.

Installing the counter

Unlike shut-off valves, polypropylene meters do not exist, and, therefore, a special fitting must be used to connect it. To connect the meter to a polypropylene water supply, it is convenient to use a combined one-piece fitting.

Fig. 14.

Fig. 16.

Water heater connection

It should be noted that the water heater can be connected to the water supply with hoses. In this case, water sockets or combined one-piece fittings are perfect.

Fig. 17.

Fig. 18.

Fig. 19.

If the connection is made directly to the water supply, then it is advisable to use collapsible fittings and polypropylene taps. To be able to turn off and remove the water heater.

Welding of polypropylene pipes

Now that the main points on the installation of polypropylene pipes are highlighted, we can say about the pipe welding process itself. Welding of polypropylene pipes is carried out by heating the pipe surface using a welding machine. The whole process of welding consists in the fact that two parts to be joined are heated at once, after which they are connected and after cooling they are tightly connected.

Fig. 20.

Fig. 21.

This is the main disadvantage of polypropylene pipes, that if some unit is welded incorrectly, then it is impossible to remake it, it is only possible to assemble a new one. Therefore, the welding process should be treated responsibly so as not to damage fittings and pipes.

However, in some cases it is possible to correct an incorrectly welded element. For this, couplings can be used. In the photo below, how to fix an incorrectly welded joint using a coupling.

Fig. 22.

Fig. 23.

Diy welding procedure for polypropylene pipes

Using special scissors cut the required pipe size. If you cut the pipe with a saw, remove any burrs formed during the cutting process.

Fig. 24.

This is followed by a marker or pencil to make a mark on the pipe and fitting. This mark is necessary in order to further connect both parts in the correct orientation. It should be noted that some manufacturers immediately identify risks, which makes the job much easier.

Fig. 25.

Fig. 26.

There are three important points to note here.

Firstly, most welders have a temperature controller. For room temperature, it is optimal to have a welding machine temperature of about 270 degrees. If welding is carried out outdoors or at low temperatures, then the heating temperature should be increased.
Secondly, for welding polypropylene pipes, the holding of parts during heating is important. So for a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm - 5s; 25mm - 7s; 32 mm - 8 s; 40 mm - 12s. Here again, remember about the temperature of the welding machine. The selection of the optimal mode consists in the fact that the heating of the places of the parts to be joined is uniform.
Thirdly, when the parts are heated, they cannot be turned on the nozzle, you can only put them on, and after heating, remove them.

Fig. 27.

After the parts have warmed up, they must be carefully removed from the nozzle and connected. During connection, they must not be turned relative to each other, this will affect the quality of the welding. After the parts are connected, they should be kept stationary for 10-30 seconds so that the weld is frozen.

In conclusion, there are two tips for welding polypropylene pipes.

When welding polypropylene pipes, do not join parts along the entire length of the heated pipe. The pipe on the welding machine warms up by about 15 mm. When connecting, however, it should be performed at a length of 10 mm. Otherwise, an influx of material is formed from the inside of the pipe, as well as from the outside. Due to the influx of pipe material, the flow area is reduced, which contributes to the accumulation of any deposits in this place, thereby clogging the water supply system.

Fig. 28.

Most welding machines are equipped with a special clamp. It is required for attachment to a workbench or table. It is convenient to weld pipes if the welding machine is not mobile, so you should not neglect to pre-fix it, for example, to a stool.

Fig. 29.

We examined all the features of welding polypropylene pipes and the use of various fittings to connect the most common water supply devices. Despite the simplicity of welding polypropylene pipes, this work is very responsible, because pipes will serve for many years. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to make a marking of the passage of pipes and determine the required set of fittings and pipes, and only then start installation. Installation should start from the riser. The key to high-quality welding is the optimal temperature of the welding machine. Before starting work, it will not be superfluous to make one test connection to check the selection of the correct temperature regime. And remember that the welding machine has a temperature of 270-320 degrees and with careless handling it is easy to get a severe burn, therefore, welding of polypropylene pipes should be carried out in special protective gloves or mittens.

Do you want to seriously renovate and update your apartment? Then it will not be superfluous to find out that one of the most important stages of a home overhaul is the replacement of old plumbing fixtures and pipes with new ones. In addition, this is the most impressive item of expenditure in the budget allocated for this work.

To reduce the already impressive costs is the normal desire of every zealous owner. Do you agree? It is quite possible to reduce them: do-it-yourself plumbing installation will help. We will tell you how to make a wiring, how to transfer and connect plumbing equipment, what tools and materials are needed for this.

You will learn how to independently change the pipes in the bathroom and connect plumbing fixtures. And in order to make it easier to understand the repair issue, the article contains thematic photo guides and video instructions.

Not everyone is satisfied with the typical projects of high-rise buildings, and the apartment owners are trying to remake the plumbing according to their preferences. This set of works is very troublesome and time-consuming, however, if you study the theoretical side of the issue well and follow the instructions exactly, most of the work (if not all) can be done independently.

Polypropylene faucets cause mistrust among many buyers due to the fact that they consider the material of manufacture to be unreliable and short-lived. Meanwhile, modern technologies provide the highest quality workmanship, due to which, in terms of their properties, such cranes are not inferior to metal products, and in some respects even surpass them. This article will consider the main features of this type of product and the criteria for choosing high-quality models.

The advantages of this product group

Cranes for polypropylene pipes can be very different: steel, brass or from the same material as the main communications. We will consider the latter option in more detail, especially since it has a number of indisputable advantages:

Ease of installation	Any specialist will confirm that it is much easier to install a polypropylene crane with your own hands than a metal one. The fastening system is and most importantly - choose the nodes with the desired thread so that you do not have to return to the store again for replacement
Low weight	The mass of structures of this type is much lower than that of other options. This not only simplifies their loading and transportation, but also reduces the load on the structure, which in some cases is a fundamental factor when choosing
Corrosion resistant	Due to the fact that polypropylene is not subject to corrosive processes, the inner surface of the units remains smooth for many years, does not accumulate plaque on it and significantly reduces the likelihood of blockages
Ease of operation	After installation and assembly of the system, the cranes do not need maintenance, that is, the communications do not need to be periodically checked and cleaned, which is very important in places that are difficult to access for any reason
Durability	The service life of polypropylene products is about 50 years, which exceeds the performance of most analogues. At the same time, the price of the products is very democratic, which can also be attributed to important advantages.

Important!
Another important advantage is the fact that the locking mechanism is made of high quality stainless steel, which guarantees the durability of the structure and its resistance to adverse influences.

Features of polypropylene taps

First, you need to understand the main design features, this will allow you to better understand how the system functions.

Device

Products can be made from different types of raw materials, most often the upper limit of heat resistance is limited to 95 degrees. It is best to choose designs from the PPRC raw material grade, the size range of products is quite wide, but the most common sizes are 20, 25, 32 and 50 mm, but you can find other options.

Regardless of the size, the structure consists of the following components:

High strength polypropylene housing... It is very important that the knot is cast with high quality, without any flaws and superficial defects.
The shut-off element is a ball with a hole for water flow... It is best if it is made of stainless steel and the surface is sanded with a laser, this will ensure the most snug and secure fit.
The stem is the axis on which the locking mechanism is mounted, it must be fitted very precisely to prevent even the smallest backlash.
O-rings are used to prevent water from entering through the stem mountings, they must be made of high quality rubber.
Two rings are used for a snug fit of the ball to the bodywhich can be used either from PTFE or Teflon.
Mechanism adjustments are carried out using a handle, which is attached with a special screw.

Types of products

Depending on the design features, all such products can be divided into several groups.

For example, depending on the type of housing, the following options can be distinguished:

Non-collapsible options have a solid body, they are easy to operate and cost a little. But the biggest drawback is the fact that in the event of a breakdown, the unit is not repaired, but replaced entirely.
Collapsible housings are more massive and more complex, but in the event of a malfunction, they can be repaired by replacing worn out gaskets or entire parts of the system without replacing the entire unit.

The following types are available depending on the direction of flow:

Straight lines through which the liquid flows in one direction.
Angular, in which the direction of the flow changes, they are most in demand when

We understand the details of installing a new mixer in the kitchen. Installation in a worktop and connection to the water supply system. How to ensure continuous operation without leaks.

1. Before starting work

First, it is necessary to shut off the water to avoid possible flooding;
We open the tap to remove the water that remains;
Check the passport for a new kitchen faucet made at moscowmebel.com or another factory.

2. Preparation

To replace, we need the following materials and tools:

Adjustable wrench (alternative - wrench);
Two types of screwdrivers - flat and cross-shaped;
Sandpaper;
Lamp;
Capacity for draining water when replacing the siphon;
New mixer.

If the kitchen sink model is removable, it is advisable to remove it. This makes it easier to dismantle the old product and install a new one.

We tighten the chrome-plated siphon for the kitchen sink with an adjustable wrench.

In the event that the old mixer belongs to the economy class, it is better to replace the soft hoses that connect the product and the water supply.

3. Dismantling

Before starting dismantling, shut off the water in the toilet to prevent flooding.

Stages:

We find the junction with the pipes of the water supply system.
We fix the place of attachment of the product with a sink;
If the sink is invoiced - dismantle;
We remove the soft tubes with an adjustable wrench, and pour the water into a prepared container.

We remove part of the siphon (bottom).
We dismantle and turn the sink so as to organize the maximum convenient access to the connection point.
We loosen the nut and other fasteners with an adjustable wrench, then dismantle the threaded pins with a screwdriver. To prevent the product from falling, check its position.
We remove the special clamp, flexible hoses and mixer. We take out the hoses through the mounting hole.

4. Installation

The day before, check the condition of the mounting hole. If dirt has accumulated in it, it must be removed.

Details required for correct installation.

Before starting the installation, fit the hoses (water supply).

Stages:

1. We fix on the base a special gasket (ring) in the provided groove. This procedure will allow you to make a sealed system.

2. We stretch the hoses and then turn the sink to its original position, holding the mixer. Check the position of the gasket - it should stay in place.

3. Install the seal and the pressure plate (they must have the same shape).

4. We screw in special pins (threaded).

Secure attachment through threaded pins.

5. Tighten the mounting nuts with an adjustable wrench.

If the nuts are loosely tightened, the mixer will constantly spin.

5. Launch

Check four connections;
After making sure everything is in order, close the tap and turn on the water;
Check the hot and cold water supply alternately to ensure there is no risk of leaks.

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