In this article I will tell you how to make a good braid knife (knife-jamb) with your own hands. Such a knife is used for wood thread, to work with leather or other thin sheet materials.

It is known that the quality of the knife is determined by the quality of its blade. And the quality of the blade, respectively, the steel from which it is done. But where is the home master to take high-class steel, hard, well holding sharpening?! And the answer is simple - you just need to look around.

Option first Knife jamb from a construction nail-dowel . Just a magnificent steel with hardness and plasticity (still, because they are clogged into the concrete and do not break down at the same time).

We score a dowel into the end of the workpiece under the handle (a piece of cutting is perfect for a shovel with a length of about 12-25 cm).

On the emery or credit disk, the grinder is stepping a hat from the sides and at an angle of 30-45 degrees to get the blade. With the help of a knife, the grinding paper file is taking the handle on hand.

In view of the fact that the blade is quite narrow, it is better to use it like a knife for a wood thread, although there is another application to such a blade too

Or option for a thinner work with a handle that can be kept like a pen

Option two Knife-jamb made from the canvas from the cutting metal. More precisely, his debris, which will have a huge amount in any workshop.

The disadvantages of knives from the knife cannon include fragility in the transverse direction (the calene web is quite easy to break with incorrect load), in addition to this, the process of manufacturing a knife is more laborious. But the blade is wider, and therefore more functional than the knife from the dowel.

Cold cloth at an angle of 60 degrees. You can get a chamfer from both sides and one. Bonaches with one-sided sharpening, by the way, is well suited for.

The handle can be made of two options - simple and fast, as well as a beautiful, comfortable, but complex. Simply and quickly - just winding on the handle isolate with a layer thoroughly - not very beautiful, but cheaply and angry. And it's not a pity to break.

The second option is to handle from the tree. Made from two halves. You need to take, either two podshekki well adjacent to each other, or gently split one (but only exactly). In one of the workpieces of the chisel or simply a knife, the groove for the blade is cut, they are missing with glue, add up to each other and fixed (clamps, can be tightly slaughtered with a rope).

In the example above, the example, because The skulls were faced with each other far from perfect and the adhesive compound was not particularly durable, I slapped them three rivets from aluminum wire - the third photo is not visible - it is not through and passes through the hole in the canvas.

Sculpture composition, work Novoselova A.V.

For all types of threads, various elements of the decoration of housing, furniture, souvenirs and other crafts need a special tool.

A thread tool can be distinguished as the main (cutting) and auxiliary (for drilling and drunk, carpentry, markup). Various electrified household tools and devices based on the electric motor can also be widely used.

All tools must be excellent quality so that you can easily carry out carved work of any complexity.

The cutting tool should be made of good steel, easy and convenient, perfectly sharpened so that the tree is cut as "oil", contain it in perfect condition.

The stupid tool crumbs, it does not cut a tree, and cutting and the carving itself look rough, careless. This spoils the mood and often beats off the desire to finish the work. A sharp tool work is easy and pleasant, the drawing is clean, accurate, beautiful. On the finished product you can always determine not only the skill and handwriting of the master, but also what and how it performed work.

Cutting tool

Bogorodsky knife It is used for sculptural thread, takes its name from the Bogorodskaya sculptural thread.

Bogorodsky knife

Knife-jamb (Fast sharpening angle 20 °, angle of the bevel 35 0; 45 °; 60 °), used for flat-grained, flat-elded, embossed, openwork threads.

Knife-jamb

Knife Cutter - It is used as an auxiliary tool for different types of threads.

Knife Cutter

Stills straight (sharpening angle 18-20 °); Applied as auxiliary tool for different types of thread.

The chisel is straight

Chisels semicircular - The main tool is used to perform all types of wood thread. There are: - detached (R˃H), average (R \u003d H), steep (R˂h).

Chisels semi-child

Samka - Kurcarzy These are the chisels with a curved blade which allows for a thread, do not touch the handle processed plane. There is a cozcarza-flat chisel, a pridrise corner. Cupcaraza-semicircular chisel.

Chisels Kurcareza

Persian-Ceraziki Remind steep semicircular chisels. The width of their canvas - 2 ... 3 mm. Designed to cut out fine streams, whose cross sections correspond to the tool's profile.

Emino-Cerazik

The chisels are corners or geysmuses. (angle between cutting edges 50-70 °). Used to select a V-shaped groove, are used to perform elements of contour threads.

Chisel corner or geysmus

Styhel. Patihels always have an angle of bend at 15 degrees. The handles are most often in the form of fungus.Apply for sampling of various residences in the manufacture of engraving.

Schichel

Klepiki. Klepiki are of the most different sizes, but the forms of sharpening they have only three: sword, leaf and marigolds. The first two is called: the clump-sword and skin-leaf.

Apply them in flat-populated and volumetric threads for stripping the background in hard-to-reach places.

Klipik-sword, Klepik-leaf

Chisel-marigolds. Nogot differ from ordinary clips shape form. She reminds her nail. Purpose of Nogotkov-Stripping in hard-to-reach places and performing elements of the broken thread.

Chisel-marigolds

Spoons (Spoonful knives). The best spider is a sharpened ring with a ridden rod. The flags are needed to remove the large volume of the material in the recesses and for the processing of the inner walls in the manufacture of dishes.

Spoons

Punches and Chekany - These are steel rods having drawing at work ends. Apply most often for the flange background in flat-elder and embossed threads.

The cutting tool is made of instrumental steels:

1-carbon (y10; u12; u10a; u12a), when sharpening is determined by a white bundle of sparks with separate asterisks.

2-doped (HP5; x12; h12m), when sharpening, give yellow or orange sparks.

3-high-speed steel (P18; P9), when sharpening, give dark red sparks.

Sharpening and edit tool

Much to perform high-quality wood thread has the correct sharpening tool.

Sharpening the tool consists of two stages:

1, chamfering;

2- edits.

1. Removing chamfer. The chamfer can be removed on the electricoid (see Fig.), Sharpened with a manual drive or manually on the abrasive bar.

Digging for sharpening and edit tool: A - mechanized double-sided sharpened with fixtures for sharpening, editing and polishing tool: 1 - moving emphasis; 2 - felt circle; 3 - protective screen; 4 - abrasive circle; 5 - engine; b - device of mobile stop ;: 1 - lock of horizontal movement; 2 - moving pad to select sharpening angle; 3 - bolt - vertical movement lock; B - fixture for editing and polishing tool (diagram): 1 - electric motor; 2 - belt transmission; 3 - felt circles; 4 - Wooden circles for corners; 5 rubber circles with abrasive; 6 - bearings; 7 - metal frame; 8 - mobile focus; 9 - shaft.

The location and movement of the tool when sharpening is shown in the figures.

Removing chamfer: A - on straight stoves; B - on semicircular and sloping chisels: 1 - exterior chamfer; 2 - internal chamfer; in - on the eyes of the corners: 1 - internal chamfer; 2 - Foreign chamfer.

The position of the chisel at sharpening: 1 - direct chisel; 2 - semicircular and color; 3 - chisel - corner;

When sharpening it is necessary:

Withstand the specified alarm angle;

To withstand the shape of the blade, the chamfer must be smooth without traces of injections;

It is not allowed to enjoy the tool (prevent periodic wetting tool in water).

2. Edit. Under the edited tool, an increase in the purity of the sharpening of the blade, the removal of burrs, improving the aquality. For editing tools, microcorundum dowders are used (Fig.), Skins, skin.

Sharpening kosyachka: a - sharpening parameters: 1 -

chamfer; 2 - sock; 3 - blade; 4 - heel;

b - the position of the hands when working;

For semicircular incisors, there are an elite plaque from the linden, slits on its surface transverse grooves for cutters of different sizes (Fig.).

Legal boards and belts

1 - board with a set of profile bars and dowders;

2 - the closer board with the profiles of the chisels;

3 - leather or tarpaulin strap for editing.

Before editing, the gay paste is rubbed into the corner. The inner surface of semicircular cutters rushed round wooden spots, wrapped in a small grinding sandpaper or skin grated paste ga. You can edit the tool on a rotating felt circle, grated paste gay.

The correctly sharpened tool must have a given angle of pointing, the form of the blade, not to have burrs.

When cutting across the fibers of a pine or firing board, the cutter must leave clean cut, without breaking the fibers.

Literature:

1. Burikov V. G., Vlasov V.N.

House thread-M.: Niva Rossi together with the company Eurasian Region, 1993-352 p.

2. Vetoshkin Yu.I., Startsev V.M., Zadimatko V.T.

Wooden art: studies. benefit. Ekaterinburg: Ural. State Lesometh. un-t. 2012.

Tool for a wood cutter - it's all! The success of all work depends on its quality and sharpening. Therefore, many masters prefer to work exclusively with their own manufacturing knives. Moreover, to make the chisel or the same cutter for an experienced man of labor will not be. The main thing is that at hand there were suitable materials.

In my drawer for tools there is a lot of chisels, cutters, knives and other wood-needed carvings. And I must say that most of them are handmade, that is, by me personally. Distinguishes them all one feature - a special shape of the handle. It always makes it with the pellets to keep the knife in the hand it was comfortable, and it is convenient to work.

We will need:

• leg from the old chair for handles
• maketer for metal for cutting part
• cardboard for templates
• epoxy resin

Note:the shape of the leg can be both rectangular (I use it precisely such) and round.

Instruments:

• hacksaw
• stirmen straight and semicircular
• bulgarian
• vice
• drill

We make template

Before starting work with the material, always prepare the template. I advise you to follow my example.

We will do it from dense cardboard. The shape and handle, and the cutting part you can choose arbitrary. The main thing is that it is convenient for you.

For the handle personally, I'm going to make this option, as shown in the photo NO2. As for the cutting part, the "foot" of the future knife intends to make oblique, so that in the future it can be used to cut out the surroundings and slots.

Transfer patterns on a tree and metal and cut out.

If you have already noticed, I make two tools at the same time.

Cut the cutting part

We put the mill in a vice and with the help of a grinder cut the part we need. We work carefully, not forgetting about safety rules.

Cooking the handle

I cut the shape of the handle and process the tree. Cutting Movements We produce in a circle and at hand.

When the handle is almost ready, proceed to grinding. This process is carried out by sandpaper until the tree surface becomes smooth.

Then you need to drill a hole in which the metal part of the knife will be inserted. We use the drill for this. And the hole as a result should turn out the size of a little big, rather than the tail of the knife.

Collect the knife

Now it is necessary to secure the cutting part and the handle. We insert the metal blank into the handle hole and fill with epoxy resin (photo NO4).

It can be bought in the store and easily prepare independently (detailed instructions are attached to the set). After 1-3 hours, the mixture will be grabbed, and the knife jamb will be actually ready. If you want to reduce the time of this waiting, add some hardener into the resin.

And the last steps - before using the knife handle need to be covered with varnish (I choose nitrolac for these purposes), and the cutting edge is sharpened. That's all: our tool is ready for work.

Alexander Tsaregorodtsev, Tomsk. Photo by the author

The Master's business is afraid, but whatever golden hands were, and without tools in some cases it is hard to do. So in a tree thread without a good, convenient tool is difficult to get the desired result. Nowadays, you can buy everything and including the best tool, but there is a small snag - finance (not everyone has the opportunity to buy) I offer my own hands to make a jamb.

To make a knife-shock knife need:
- A small tree bar, Personally, I used a wooden leg from the old chair for this purpose (this will be a knife handle)
- mill;
- pencil and sheet of paper;
- Epoxy.

Instruments:
- saw on a tree (knife);
- several chisels and semicircular and even profile;
- Bulgarian;
- vice;
- electric drill.

Production of knife-shoika with their own hands step by step

Step 1
Initially, we will make a template for which we will make a knife jamb. It is best for making a template to use cardboard. The shape of the handle and the main cutting part of the knife is made according to the need depending on the needs that you will do this knife and how you will be comfortable. If you want, you can use a pattern from the photo. With such a form of the cutting part, you will be convenient to cut out the notches and grooves.

Step 2.
The template is ready, proceed to cutting the handle and the blade of the knife.
A wooden handle is cut with a hacksaw, and cut the blade with the help of a grinder, respectively, the template from the old cutter is pre-closer. Do not forget to adhere to security rules.

After the handle is cut out, it is necessary to stick together. It is best for convenience the shape of a handle to do on lice hand with smoothly overgoing finger bends.

Step 3.
All elements of the knife must be combined into a single whole, so with the help of the electric drill in the handle we make a hole. Making it a little more fixing part.

Step 4.
Fresh knife blade to a wooden handle. There is nothing complicated in this, you just need to insert the blade into the hole on the handle using the epoxy resin to fix it. Then leave the knife for a while in a warm place so that the resin is pretty frozen.

Step 5.
With the oil handle, it is impregnated with pores, long time will not give the tree to spoil and highlight the texture. If you want, you can cover the handle with varnish. As they say: the owner of the barin.
Blade knife need to sharpen well.
That's all the knife-jamb, made by your hands ready. I hope he will serve you for a long time.

One of the most relevant topics for any carver is to take a good tree tool? High-quality well-sharpened wood cutters can help even a completely experienced master. The sections are obtained smooth, clean, and work with such a tool is much easier! Troubled different options for the manufacture of a woodworking tool, from scalpels to razors, I stopped on metal cutters.

They are fragile enough and durable at the same time. Carbon steel allows you to keep the edge of the blade sharpness for a long time, it does not even stand on solid wood species.

So, at first cutting the mill on the cutter on the metal according to a predetermined drawing of the future cutter:

In our case, this is a small knife cutter, which is the main tool of the carver:

The presence of such an abundance of sparks with cutting says that steel is good, carbon, it means it is suitable for wood thread:

It turns out such a workpiece:

It is desirable that that part that will be in the handle was more blades. This is for strength.

Collect the knife blade, constantly perching it into cold water so as not to twist:

Now you need to make a knife for a knife. To do this, we take a string of a durable tree of wood. In one part we draw the contour of the knife, the other as a pad:

Cut out the resulting in the tree in the form of a knife so that it is drowned flush, we wash the pva glue both parts:

Glue the knife in the vice. Gluing takes hours of 12th day:

After gluing, insert the handle, and the knife is brought to the sharpener to the desired sharpness.

By this principle you can make a knife with your own hands.

By the way, excellent tree chisels are obtained from a metal drill:

And semicircular rocks from swables:

Knife - jamb can be made of rapitis saw:

Here are still cutters on the tree that I made my own hands from the milling mill:

The main tools of any wood cutter is knives-shoals:

They need different sizes and with different angles of inclination

All zones (blade, sock and heel) are used at the wood-shock knives. The main requirements for knives: 1) they should be well fitted under the hand of the master, 2) should be of good carbon steel with a good sharpening. Knife jamb for a wood thread can be made with your own hands ()

In addition to the shoals for curious wood threads are used and auxiliary knives:

They are of different sizes and shapes, one of them is needed for coarse cutting, others for cutting small parts.

For geometric wood threads often apply various chisels. They are semicircular varying degrees of bulge

As well as directly cross section

And triangular cross section

Semicircular chisels sometimes make with a cutting edge, beveled at an angle of 45 degrees

Cutters are often used kischaráz. These are the same semicircular chisels with curved near the cutting end of the web