How to properly sheathe a wall with clapboard. We figure out how to sheathe the outer and inner walls of the house with clapboard

Builders copied the way to create durable skin of railway carriages by connecting planks with a thorn-groove lock. The clapboarding of the walls turned out to be practical.

The board looks beautiful, through cracks when the wood dries and there is no warping. Installation is simple and accessible to all craftsmen who want to make facade siding and insulation with their own hands.

Types of lining and purpose

To restore the old dacha and the bathhouse, give them a new decorative look, make the apartment unique and warm, renew the frame house, the tree allows. My nephew stubbornly followed me, fulfilling the duties of an assistant. He learned to clap houses with clapboard outside with his own hands, tried to lay the finishing material correctly. While working, we discussed the lining and its possibilities to give the building a decorative look.

Lining for walls is made from various materials:

Wood.
A metal sheet.
OSB plate.

Plastic and metal are used outside, in production facilities, warehouses, insulation is laid under them. The lathing is made of a metal profile, there may be other options. Pressed wood boards are used for painting. The finishing technology is simple, affordable to do it yourself. Starting profiles, external and internal angles, and overlays are matched to the lining sheets of the same color.

Kirill was interested in what kind of lining is the most popular and diverse. Wood has always been and remains the main building material. The panel uses natural wood. As always, Kirill arranged my stories succinctly in tables. So he did with a wooden clapboard.

Wood species:	Moisture resistance:	Application area:
Pine:	low	recreation room, living room, facade, veranda, attic.
Spruce:	low	balcony, terrace, attic, loggia.
Linden:	high	bath, steam room.
Alder:	high	sauna, steam room, kitchen, study, living room, nursery, bedroom, bath, toilet, corridor, gazebo.
Cedar:	average	interior, facade, attic.
Larch:	high	steam room, bath, sauna, bedroom, kitchen.
Oak:	high	kitchen, bath, study, living room, hallway, corridor, gazebo.

You can sheathe the facade and internal walls with clapboard made of wood, make partitions. The direction of laying the plank can be vertical or horizontal. The lining differs in the shape of the section:

Standard.
Euro lining.
American.
Block house.
Softline.
Landhouse.

Their main difference is the presence on the reverse side of the cutouts for ventilation, the shape of the chamfers. House block has an oval top imitating a log country house. The universal lock allows different types of finishing boards to be combined in one cladding.

Do-it-yourself wall decoration with clapboard (video)

Facade cladding

We arrived at the address. Before us was an old summer cottage, which had to be insulated, a beautiful facade made, and the walls saved from destruction by wind and rain. The walls must be sheathed with clapboard, which was already inside. With the help of my nephew, I quickly marked the main lines horizontally along the plinth and measured the unevenness of the walls along the vertical.

Marked under the beams with a step of 40 cm in order to sheathe the house with clapboard outside. The design of the concrete basement was made with stone siding. The lathing was made of a metal profile. Natural materials go well with each other, imitation of a stone base and wooden walls.

Kirill was interested in how to sheathe the walls with clapboard if they are uneven and the wall material is porous, swollen and warped. We cleaned the logs of dirt. Impregnated with protective compounds. While the facade was drying, the strips and beams were prepared for finishing, a vapor barrier was attached. Sheathing the house with clapboard is made according to strictly defined instructions. The step-by-step installation procedure looks like this.

A starting U-shaped profile was installed along the horizon.
They set the level and fixed the bars under the frame at the corners. The lower end was brought in profile.
We pulled the cords in the middle and at the top so that the frame was in the same plane.
The remaining bars were installed along the marked vertical lines and cords. Fastening was done through a trim bar, placing it in the depressions.
After that, window and door openings were sheathed along the perimeter of the slopes.
Insulation was laid in the gap between the battens of the crate.
We closed everything with a hydro-barrier.
Each wall was sheathed with clapboard from the lower left corner.

First, we set the strip along the corner to keep the ends in line, making sure to leave a gap for the wood to swell. We fixed the first row of lamellas from above by screwing a self-tapping screw into each beam. The rest, taking into account the vertical arrangement of the lamellas, fastened the lining with thin nails, hammering into the lower part of the castle. The next row went with an offset, before nailing, they left a small gap, since the frame could play.

When cladding with metal and plastic clapboard, a kleimer is used. It is wound into the lock at the bottom of the groove. We made the front wall of the facade with vertical cladding using a clamp. How to sheathe walls with clapboard with your own hands is shown in the video. The location of the board depends on the desire of the owner of the house:

Horizontal.
Vertical.
Inclined.
Herringbone.
Staggered.

The sketch is sketched in advance, and the timber is attached perpendicular to the direction of the facing. Platbands, corner pieces and decorative carvings are done after the wall paneling is fully installed.

Interior wall decoration

Kirill helped me to complete the next order, to sheathe a large room with clapboard in the house. The client wanted to create a Provence style living room with a fireplace. We had to combine the finishing. We leveled the wall with the fireplace using dry plaster, using drywall. The crate was made of a metal profile. After sealing the joints, wallpaper was glued at a distance from the fireplace. The hearth was overlaid with artificial stone, making thermal insulation between the stone and the vinyl wallpaper.

Pine lamellas with the Softline profile, thanks to the rounded chamfer on top, simulate the laying of an overlapping board. The cladding material has a decorative appearance, especially the Extra variety, which has a knot-free pattern. You can endlessly look at the clapboard wall. She is able to decorate any interior. The design in its variety is shown in the photo.

The advantages of frame construction are the ability to quickly build a house, make it warm and beautiful. Together with Kirill, it was difficult to cope with the volume of work. We worked as a team of 4 people. The frame was installed earlier, the company for the production of ready-made house blocks delivered and assembled them themselves.

The calculation of how many lining we need to seal the walls outside and inside, I made, taking the size from the drawing of the frame. Now the slats were cut out in advance. The length of each board was 5 cm less than the height. The idea to sheathe vertically with clapboard under the block house belonged to his nephew. Original design and practicality were combined in this solution. The textured wall looked decorative and original in the streets. The water flowed down the varnished surfaces without lingering.

Horizontal slats for fixing the lining, at the same time held the mineral wool, laid in the space of the frame. To start the cladding, the slats were first filled horizontally to guide the trim slats vertically. We will screw fasteners into flat bars. A detailed action plan can be seen in the video. Street - front facade, decided to do the last.

By this time, a plan for the decorative design of the outer skin should be born in the head of our assistant Kirill. The appearance of a private house is of great importance. Used fasteners with clamps. They made it possible to fix and guide each board separately, maintaining a gap for expansion. A final bar was set at the top. A low tide was mounted below.

Bath interior decoration

A bath is usually built from pine logs. Coniferous wood is not suitable for interior decoration of the steam room. She, when heated, gives off resin. With a small amount, the aroma of the Christmas tree soothes, adjusts to rest. The sauna creates an atmosphere of strong smell, heavy air. It is better to sheathe the walls in the steam room with alder, which gives off a healing aroma, or birch. The peculiarity of the bath plating, the use of wooden nails. The metal has high thermal conductivity and will leave burns on the body upon contact.

A durable, beautiful and comfortable facing material - lining - can often be found in the interior decoration of apartments and houses. It can be used both in the country and when decorating a sauna; in some cases metal or plastic lining is used even for facades. The secret of the beauty of the walls, trimmed with clapboard, is fully revealed only with strict adherence to the technology of laying this material. Therefore, the question of how to sheathe the clapboard surfaces inside the house with your own hands correctly is very important: you can spend time and work, but not achieve the desired result.

A room lined with clapboard looks stylish

Choosing a material

If the choice of lining for interior decoration is made, then it is better to dwell on the following material options:

wood;
Fiberboard / chipboard;
MDF panels;
plastic.

It is no coincidence that plastic is put in last place: despite its obvious economy, rich color palette and ease of use, it is still not environmentally friendly and mechanically strong enough to completely cover the walls with it. In addition, the material, although sufficiently resistant to high temperatures, nevertheless, does not differ in increased fire resistance. Already at 100 ° C and above, polyvinyl chloride (PVC) - the main part of the plastic lining - emits an unpleasant odor, and at even higher temperatures it begins to smolder.

The metal lining is too heavy to sheathe a room with it. In addition, in the warm season, a room decorated with such material will heat up very intensively.

Of the remaining three options, preference is given in most cases to wood products. The fact is that walls covered with clapboard made of pressed wood-shaving materials must subsequently be painted or covered with transparent varnishes that imitate a particular type of wood. This will delay the interior decoration work for some time.

Fibreboard lining must be varnished

If the choice is made towards wooden lining, then in advance you should choose the optimal color and texture solution of the panels. With a great positive superiority over other materials in terms of environmental friendliness, excellent protection against noise, and low thermal conductivity, lining made of wood is a rather expensive material.

Therefore, if you decide to sheathe the house with wood clapboard with your own hands, then you should focus on the highest quality grades of material - Extra, A or B. Class C lining will fit for finishing the technical premises of the house - a pantry, a hallway.

In addition to the class of finishing, the type of wood also matters. For example, softwood lining is easy to stack and provides the healthiest environment. A room lined with such material will never leave the aromatic smell of resin.

Getting ready for styling

First, the room must be prepared for laying: carry out all the internal wiring, mark the places for sockets and switches. It is worth doing this, taking into account not only the convenience of use, but also taking into account the dimensions of the panels to be mounted, so that later you do not perform unnecessary joints and do not install additional strips. The same goes for places where there is a window or doorway.

It is necessary to prepare for laying not only the room, but also the lining itself. If you have to sheathe the walls with clapboard in the cold season, then the material brought from the store must be kept in the room for at least two days. When cladding rooms with high humidity with your own hands (for example, inside a bathroom), all panels should be treated with moisture-resistant varnish (preferably in 2 layers), let them dry and only then start installation. Between the first and second coatings, the material is emeted to increase the smoothness of the surface.

Of the necessary tools for plating with your own hands you will need:

hacksaw,
construction stapler,
hammer,
plumb line
level,
core.

To work you need a set of tools

Preparing the surface for cladding

There are few ways to lay the lining inside, you have to choose from three:

vertical;
horizontal;
inclined laying.

The latter method is much less common: it is difficult and costly to sheathe surfaces at an angle with your own hands, but there are no visible advantages, a coma of the original type of finish coating. In other cases, they are guided by the following rules:

For wall cladding in the attic, only horizontal cladding is used.
Vertical cladding visually increases the height of the room.
Horizontal paneling visually makes the room wider.

Having decided on the method of laying, they begin to prepare the walls - they must be even, which is checked with a plumb line. All surface flaws must be eliminated: cracks are putty, grooves are filled with mortar. If the house is not wooden, then sheet insulation is attached to the wall. In combination with an air gap between the batten and the wall, it will serve as an additional barrier against heat leaks.

It is necessary to correctly perform the lathing under the lining

The installation of the battens is carried out in a direction perpendicular to the direction of laying the lining: for example, with the horizontal method of sheathing, the battens are fixed to the wall vertically, and vice versa. Wooden bars are taken as battens of the lathing (the wood must have normal humidity and be pre-treated with an antifungal compound). The minimum section of the bars is 20x40 mm.

It is convenient to mark the location of the bars mounted on the walls with a chalk cord or marker. With a horizontal lathing, the step between adjacent bars is taken within 400-600 mm, and the first and last row are installed in such a way as to ensure convenient fastening of the lining. For the bottom row, an amendment is made for the subsequent installation of the plinth.

It is worth leaving a small gap (5-10 mm) between the individual bars - this will provide better conditions for air circulation. All windows and doorways are sheathed with the same bars. If the house is wooden, then the bars can be fastened with galvanized nails; for brick and especially concrete walls, only dowels are used.

The requirements for the pitch of the lathing and the installation of bars in the case of subsequent vertical clapboarding are similar.

We carry out installation

The first panel of material should be installed especially carefully: its accuracy will determine the quality of all subsequent cladding. They usually start from one of the corners of the room farthest from the door. The board is exposed using a level, and it should be perfectly flat (if there are roughnesses, they should be eliminated with a plane).

Installation starts from the far wall

The panels are nailed to the wooden wall with decorative nails with a coating that matches the color of the interior. If you do not want to see the nail heads every day, you need to use hatless nails, which are driven in with a blunt core. Correctly, when the angle of inclination of the nail in relation to the surface of the lining is approximately 70-80 °.

Many manufacturers, in particular, euro lining, supply their products with special clamps. These clamps are attached to the lathing bars with nails or staples (in the latter case, a construction stapler is used), after which the panels of the material themselves are fixed with their help.

The clapboarding work is completed by the installation of wooden corner elements - in the corners of the room and at the openings.

Often, in order to find the answer to the question of how to sheathe walls with clapboard with your own hands, you have to hire specialists, which, in turn, leads to the need for additional expenses. Thus, the costs become double - for the material and the work itself. Nevertheless, it is quite possible to perform wall cladding, both external and internal, with your own hands. Plus it will save money.

What is finishing for?

Clapboard wall cladding has plenty of positive sides. First of all, thanks to this type of finish, you can get not only an attractive appearance of the walls, but also their high environmental friendliness, since the panels are made of pure wood.

In addition to the naturalness of the raw materials, it is worth noting the simplicity of laying such material; even an amateur can cope with this task. Nevertheless, often after the installation of the lining, it will be necessary to apply additional coating in the form of paint or in order to achieve a high service life from an aesthetic and practical point of view.

Having pondered the question of how to sheathe a house with clapboard, they usually try to solve two primary problems during the repair:

Protect your home from natural influences, especially in an unstable climate;
Performing work for cosmetic purposes, to add beauty to the room.

It is important! The price for the lining is really attractive. It is worth considering the fact that you can do it yourself without the help of specialists to install the panels.

Installation

For example, it is worth using lining with the required level of humidity, it is desirable that the products pass through an autoclave. In principle, raw products can be purchased at the end of spring, after drying them in the summer, installation can begin in August.

Wall cladding tools

The lining itself, which can be made of various types of wood. Most often, aspen is used for wall cladding. Provided that a sharp jump in temperature is not planned in the room;
Special bars, which are necessary for the installation of the battens. Their fastening is necessary in increments of 40 or 50 centimeters;
Self-tapping screws are required to fix the structure or a dowel, it all depends directly on the material of which the walls are made;
Clamps are required to attach the planks to the base.... You can see from the video that you will need more nails and staples;
Stapler, small hammer, it is more convenient for the final stage;
The last step of installing the lining is to apply the finishing layer for a ready-made structure, for this purpose you will need any, or a simple varnish. The coverage should be chosen depending on what conditions are planned in this room;
A special high-quality primer is required for wood.

Pay attention! For additional wall insulation, which is carried out at the stage of installing the lining, you should use a heat-insulating material, as well as a membrane that does not allow steam and moisture to pass through. A vapor-tight membrane is especially important in the case of finishing the external walls of a building.

Installation of battens

Often, wood panels can be attached directly to the old wall surface, provided that the surface is flat and at the same time strong and durable.

Nevertheless, if you are wondering how to sheathe a log house with clapboard, it is better to do the preliminary installation of the lathing.

It is not difficult to create a crate, the most important thing is to observe some points and nuances.

The supporting element of the lathing has uniform dimensions, they should not exceed 20x40mm. In the event that the installation of thermal insulation is necessary, its thickness should be taken into account when installing the battens. As for the length of the racks, it depends directly on the dimensions of the room;
The lathing should be fixed depending on the materialfrom which the walls are made. For a wooden base, the use of self-tapping screws will be required, while for stone or brick, only dowels are suitable. A step over 50 centimeters is not rational and dangerous;
The racks are located perpendicular to the panels, and the elements of the future coating themselves can be installed as desired vertically, horizontally, or even obliquely;
It should be noted that all the components of the frame necessarily lie in the same plane., to get an even result, you must use a level. Pre-prepared wooden wedges can help in alignment.

It is important! To make the supporting structure the most durable, a solid bar should be used. The use of timber parts significantly reduces the service life.

Panel mounting

If you are going to think about the question of how to sheathe walls with clapboard, you should decide on the choice of installation method. Besides, the required number of boards should be cut, for which it is required to measure all the original surfaces... This will allow you to use the material rationally.

Fixing panels to the crate can be done in three ways:

. This is the most optimal option, since you don't have to drive any elements into the wooden lining. As a result, the cladding is very neat and quite reliable;
Using a stapler and staples. This fixation is called buried because the fasteners are mounted at an angle of 45 degrees. The location of the brackets is the spike of each panel. Each next board will fit into the previous one without any problems;
Using nails. This mount is also considered a secret, and the principle is similar to the use of staples. The difference in the use of fasteners, in addition, it is important to use a finishing hammer, which allows you to drown the head.

Note! If you are going to translate into reality the way how to sheathe a room with clapboard, you can apply any of the methods described above. However, there are other ways.

Further processing

To complete the laying of the lining, a finishing layer should be applied, it can be varnish, paint, special impregnation or glaze. It is common to use paints that usually strip the wood of all its natural properties.

In principle, on the market you can find such coatings that allow air to pass through, but their color scheme covers the natural pattern. If you are going to solve the problem of how to properly sheathe the walls with clapboard, you must study in advance all the properties of paint and varnish coatings.

How to choose quality material

To decorate a room that can have various purposes, you need high-quality material. Nevertheless, there are certain characteristics by which you should choose a material that allows you to answer the question of how to properly sheathe walls with clapboard.

It is worth paying attention to the type of wood, as well as directly to the class to which this lining belongs.

Buying wood panels for exterior walls

It is necessary to sheathe the outside of the room not only for decorative purposes, but also in order to protect the building from any influences of nature. Here you should pay special attention to the type of wood.

It is necessary to obtain a coating that will not fight dampness, temperature changes, as well as the effects of precipitation and other indicators of an unstable climate.

The most preferred breeds are:

Oak. It is very well suited for outdoor decoration, since it has characteristic signs of resistance to external influences, durable in terms of operational periods. In addition, its color range is wide enough - from light yellow to dark red shades;
Larch. An excellent tree for use in damp climates, since it is quite resistant to such a process as rotting. The structure of the tree is very pronounced. If we talk about the minuses, then this is too complex processing of raw materials for the manufacture of wooden panels. This leads to too high a cost;
. A representative of conifers, resistant to decay. They are distinguished by interesting tones;
Merbau. The variant is rather exotic, has an interesting texture. Speaking about the advantages, it is necessary to highlight resistance to ultraviolet rays, humidity and too sharp fluctuations in temperature.

It is important! Almost any wood species can be suitable for wall decoration outside, while it is advisable to choose the most valuable ones, which will ensure the durability of the building cladding.

Purchase of wood panels for interior walls

When learning how to sheathe walls inside a building with clapboard, it should be noted that the inside of the house is devoid of negative effects such as precipitation or ultraviolet radiation. Accordingly, from the inside, the house can be clad in less resistant species, which, nevertheless, have the highest indicators in terms of aesthetics.

Examples of this are:

Maple. Endowed with a wide range of colors. The texture is noble There are practically no flaws in this breed, it is durable, it is easily processed;
Ash. Very promising for decorating walls inside a building. There are small vessels on its surface, which allows you to get interesting ornaments on the cut;
Nut. Differs in hardness, which, nevertheless, does not interfere at all with processing to create lining. It can vary in color and structure, depending on which region it grows in. Even with a long period of use, walnut panels do not deform;
Cherry. A noble shade that makes this wood species recognizable. However, cherry wood darkens over time.

It is important! For interior decoration, there are many more options in terms of choosing the type of wood. This allows you to significantly diversify the options for design solutions.

Conclusion

The instructions above tell you how to sheathe a wall with clapboard, both inside and outside. The most important thing is to calculate the required amount of material for work, this is quite easy to do by calculating the area of \u200b\u200beach surface.

Siding can be used to sheathe a building for any purpose. It will hide imperfections in the surface of the walls, protect them from atmospheric influences and give the facade a decorative and well-groomed look.

This article will look at the sequence of work on how to properly sheathe a house with siding. And, also at the end of the article, a visual aid is attached - how to sheathe a house with siding, video.

Tools for making battens and installing siding

Hacksaw
Construction or laser level
Roulette and construction square
Hammer
Drill
Screwdriver

Siding Installation Tools

Calculation of the amount of materials

Having measured the parameters of the outer walls, carry out. The height of each wall is divided by the usable height (without lock) of the panel. The total number of rows is multiplied by the number of panels in each.

5-7% of the resulting number is added to the waste.

The length of the material for the starting strip is calculated based on the perimeter of the house, adding to the possible joints. The finishing bar is calculated in the same way, adding the amount required under the windows.

The outer, as well as the inner corners, are calculated by the piece, measuring the height in the appropriate places. The window profile is considered along the perimeter of the windows.

Connecting strips (H and G profiles), calculated by the piece, depending on the number of rows on the wall and other joints.

Surface preparation

The frame is the supporting basis for siding panels, insulation and vapor barrier. It is erected from a metal profile or a wooden bar.

Before the installation begins, the walls are prepared: ebb tides, lighting devices, window shutters, storm gutters are removed. The old base is being repaired: the cracks are filled with mortar, the metal elements are treated with a primer.

Wall marking and installation of lathing

To hang the walls in the upper parts of the corners, holes are drilled into which pieces of reinforcement 20-30 cm long are hammered. A plumb line is lowered from the rods and the lower rods are inserted into the prepared holes.

Important: a string is pulled between the upper and lower rods, thanks to which you can establish whether the walls are even and adjust the beacons.

For the device of the frame, profiles are used for mounting drywall. Their resource allows you to freely withstand the mass of siding and insulation. Stands from a CD profile are vertically installed on the basement or blind area, with a distance between their axes of 40-50 cm.

To mount the frame more conveniently, a UD profile is installed below, into which the vertical details of the crate are installed.

The places where the siding fittings will be installed are additionally reinforced with paired CD profiles. Around windows, doorways, in the upper part of the walls, lintels are installed from this profile, which has a large width of the mounting area. The siding window strip is attached to or adjacent to the frame using the UD profile.

Along the verified vertical lines, with a step of 50-60 cm, straight suspensions, having a U-shape, are installed and fastened with dowels. If the walls are uneven and the frame will be significantly spaced from the base, the suspensions are replaced with consoles made from profile scraps.

The hangers allow you to install vertical posts strictly along a given line, fix them with galvanized self-tapping screws 9.5 mm. Installation is started from the extreme profiles, a cord is pulled between them for even installation of intermediate racks.

On pediments, siding strips are often positioned vertically. For this, the frame racks are placed horizontally.

Fastening fittings

The fittings decorate the façade, give it a complete look and protect the joints from moisture and dirt.

The following elements are provided for facade cladding:

Outer and inner corner
Starting strip
Trailing strip
Chamfer, panel for cornice
Window plank
Platband
Gutter
Н - profile, connecting strip

Siding facade cladding accessories

For windows and doors recessed into the opening, a window strip is used. This detail covers the slope and beautifully shapes the outer corner. The final strip is fixed at the frame itself and the trap.

When the windows are not deepened, but are in the plane of the frame, platbands are used as the main fittings.

The final strip of windows and doors is installed at the top of each wall at the point of abutment to the filing of the roof box. This concludes.

Attaching the starter bar

When the frame is completely assembled, using the level, the lower point of the future cladding is determined. From this point, marks are placed horizontally at all corners of the building, from which an offset is made upward by the width of the starting strip, along the line of which the line is bounced. This line is where the top edge of the starter bar is attached.

The starting strip is fixed with self-tapping screws with a step of 20 cm. For this, horizontal jumpers were placed at the bottom of the working plane of the frame.

At the junction of the two starting profiles, a temperature gap of 0.5 to 1 cm is left. The same gap is maintained at the point of attachment of the fittings.

It is worth noting that the beginning of the installation of any type of siding begins with the fastening of the starting strip. also starts with her. By the way, vinyl siding is the most popular and purchased among builders.

Further, among buyers, metal siding is appreciated. Do-it-yourself installation of metal siding is quite simple and easy. You will be able to install it yourself, without contacting construction firms, and accordingly save money. provides guidance on the installation process for this material.

Warming

Pieces of insulation suitable in size are placed in the cells of the frame. You can reliably fix the insulation mats with disc-shaped mushroom dowels. On top, a diffusion membrane is attached to the crate, which prevents the mats from getting wet.

Insulation from expanded polystyrene does not need protection from moisture.

Corner strips

Inside and outside, they are installed 0.5 cm below the lower edge of the starting strip at the bottom, at the top - 0.5 cm before reaching the upper edge of the wall. The corner is slightly fixed in the upper mounting hole, after which the vertical is verified with a plumb line. Only after that, the profile is fixed with screws or nails with a step of 20 cm.

If there is a need to connect two corner strips in height, the overlap should be 2 cm.

DIY siding installation

When a strong frame is installed and the necessary accessories are fixed, the cladding panels are installed quickly.

The bottom panel is fixed in the lock of the starting strip and from the middle to the edges is fixed on the frame posts. Each next panel enters the lock of the previous one, tightly connects along the bottom edge and is fixed from the middle to the edges.

Often, in the areas viewed, you can make siding joints along the length, the overlap is 6-10 cm.

The last panel is most often clipped: having entered the final strip, it should not rest against the upper edge. With the help of a punch, holes are punched along its edge with a pitch of 15-20 cm. The perforated edge is inserted into the final strip. The same technique is used under windows and where the trailing strip is installed.

How to install siding?

When installing siding, it is necessary to take into account some features, such as:

Siding without significant efforts and costs allows you to update and insulate the facade, give the building an elegant and more expensive look. Correctly assembled, it retains its strength and geometric stability for decades.

Video on how to properly sheathe a house with siding

Video instruction showing the installation of siding panels and accessories.

Siding is a popular type of exterior cladding. Suitable for many types of residential and industrial buildings. This option is especially relevant for buildings made of foam blocks and SIP panels.

The light weight of the finishing material does not exert a large load on the base of the building, so old wooden structures can be sheathed with siding. The popularity of siding is associated with its low cost, long service life and a wide selection of textures and colors.

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Preparatory activities

It is on the quality of the preparatory work performed that the quality of the exterior finish and its service life will depend. The essence of the preparation is as follows:

1. Remove the protruding elements.
2. Using polyurethane foam, fill in the existing gaps in the walls, near windows and doors.
3. Clean the surface of the external walls of the building from accumulated dirt. Remove old finishing material, mold and rotten parts.
4. If the facing will be carried out on the walls made of wood, then treat them with antiseptic solutions.
5. Walls made of foam block should be treated with a deep penetration primer.

Sheathing device

When equipping the frame, you need to observe the following measures:

1. Mount vertical bars 30/40, 50/50. You can use metal profile racks - PP 60/27. When using wooden products, they must be treated with an antiseptic.
2. When installing vertical posts, the distance between them is 40-60 cm.
3. Mount the timber to the walls with hangers. They can be short, medium or elongated. Choosing between them, you need to know the thickness of the heat insulator, on which the distance from the wall to the material depends.
4. The hangers are fastened to the wall with self-tapping screws. When finishing a wooden building with siding, it is possible to fasten the bars to the wall only if it is flat.
5. Decorate the corners by connecting the racks together. Make sure they are at a 90-degree angle to each other.
6. Installation of the battens is carried out after the installation of the corner posts. Place the cord between them. It is necessary to fix the remaining racks.

Warming

The laying of the heat-insulating material is carried out in the gap that has formed between the crate and the wall.

For this, a different insulation is suitable:

mineral wool;
styrofoam;
penoplex.

For maximum reliability, the thermal insulation material is additionally fixed to the wall.

In more detail about the arrangement of the frame and insulation from the following video:

Corner profile fasteners

Installation can be carried out only after the drainage system has been installed on the foundation. Its upper part will be concentrated along the previously marked line. Although this design is stiff, it is much easier to fix than a resilient launch pad. Mount the corner profiles with self-tapping screws. Fasten them at the top of the hole. Next, screw the fasteners into its middle.

To increase the length, set the upper plank on the lower one with an overlay of the edge, which will be 2-3 cm. Mount the first plank along the lines indicated in advance on top of the drainage system. Step 5 cm from the bottom edge of the corner profile and attach the first strip.

Mount window strips near the window. This should be done in such a way that the outer edge, compared to the outer, is concentrated lower by a level of 2-3 cm. For facing doorways, use the J-profile. The corners of these planks are sharp, and you can get them using the sawing method.

For vertical installation of H-profiles in pre-designated places, a level is used. Leave a gap of 5-6 cm to the level of the cornice and foundation. This will protect the bar from deformation during expansion. The J-profile is fixed where the end of the roof is.

Fixing panels

When starting finishing work, the following recommendations must be observed:

1. Fastening of the initial panel is carried out with self-tapping screws. It is fixed in the longitudinal direction to the cross posts. Start working from the bottom of the wall. The peculiarity of fastening the material is that the finishing is carried out, moving from the bottom up.
2. Each blade has a groove at the bottom and top. Insert the lower part into the start panel, and put on the second row panel and snap into the upper groove.
3. There is a cutout on the sides of the siding. Its main task is to ensure that one panel goes to the previous one. This avoids a gap between them.
4. When the J-profile is attached to the last row of siding, the wall cladding is complete. Siding provides for ventilation holes, so no vapor barrier is required.

More information about siding can be found in the video:

Gable trim

To finish the pediment you need:

1. Equip the frame in advance. The bars are fixed with self-tapping screws. Keep a distance of 30-40 cm between them. Installation of the battens should be carried out near the openings, in the corners, above and below the pediment.
2. Finishing is carried out first at the transverse outer and inner corners. Then the connecting strip is installed. Screw the fasteners into the upper hole, and then into the remaining ones.
3. When all vertical planks have been secured, the start planks can be mounted. With the help of the J-profile, fixation is carried out by the window.
4. After completing the installation of the fittings, you can mount the siding strips. The vinyl strip fits into the starter strip lock. The top panel is reinforced with a J-profile.

The trim of the pediment is clearly provided by the following video:

Home decoration with siding is one of the most popular today. This is explained by the attractive appearance of the house, low price and ease of installation work. Spending a minimum of time and effort, you can insulate the house, protect its unfavorable atmospheric factors, and give it a presentable look.