Which board to take on the rough floor. Laying the floorboard with your own hands

The floor is one of the important building elements. There is a wide variety of finishing flooring, one of which is the floorboard, its sizes are different.

It is necessary to select the material depending on the functional purpose of the room and the traffic of people.

The optimum thickness of the floorboard for private house building is from 35 to 45 mm, depending on the load on the floor. Let's consider how to choose the right size of the floorboard and the type of wood for a high-quality coating.

Batten

Regular board is more damp than the Euro version

This is a wood material intended for rough and final flooring. It is made of solid wood or by gluing several boards, visually looks like a milled board.

Plain and Euro planks are produced, produced according to a special technology on European equipment.

Euro material has a lower moisture content, higher requirements are imposed on it: there should be no blue spots, rotten knots, cores, holes.

The material produced according to European technology has a smooth surface, is well polished, due to its advantages, it has a higher cost.

From an array

Ridge and groove create a strong connection during installation

It is joined to each other in a lock connection: on one side there is a ridge, on the other - a groove. Such a connection gives the coating additional strength, even slightly cracked boards will have a beautiful appearance.

The optimal shape of the ridge is a cone, it is easy to work with such a lock, even if material is used with a long length of 5-6 m.

If the spike is made in the form of a rectangle, even with a slight curvature of the material, it is problematic to dock it into the groove so that the boards lie close to each other.

Pieces look less aesthetically pleasing than whole boards

Sometimes it is necessary to saw boards to a length of less than 3 m in order to complete their connection. A floor covering assembled from pieces looks much worse than from solid pieces.

Another type of latch joint is the material with a quarter: one board is cut ½ the width from the top, the other from the bottom. A floor made of this material looks beautiful and is distinguished by the easiest installation.

More rarely, material with beveled edges at an angle of 45 degrees is used, although such a coating looks no worse than other types and is quite easy to install.

For a rough covering, a regular edged board is suitable, it is stacked back to back and fastened with nails. In baths it is used for finishing flooring.

As a standard, solid wood may contain knots, bluish stains and resin. Euroboard has ventilation slots, thanks to which the life of the wood is extended.

Glued board

Glued board does not lose its integrity for a long time

It is produced by gluing several boards under pressure, their fibers are positioned so that the material does not lose its geometry over a long service life.

Such material is guaranteed not to dry out, and the floor will remain flat. Manufacturing technology is laborious, due to this, glued wood has a high cost.

Laying of logs under spliced ​​wood should be carried out with a step of 400 mm.

Terrace board

It features a wavy top surface. It is most often used in rooms where the floor is often wet: baths, rooms with bathrooms and a swimming pool.

It is more difficult to slip on a raised, wet surface than on a flat board.

The board is selected depending on whether it will be used for roughing or finishing. Before you go shopping, you need to decide what kind of wood is most suitable for this type of work, and what dimensions the floorboard should have.

The service life of the coating will depend on the correct choice of the floorboard and its size, because it accounts for the bulk of the load.

Board selection scheme:

Board thickness, mm	Distance between lags, mm	Section of a bar for lag, mm	Room length, m
20	300	110x60	2
25	400	150x80	3
30	500	180x100	4
35	600	200x150	5
40	700	220x180	6
45	800
50	900

The length must be selected based on the fact that there is a minimum amount of joints and waste in the form of scraps of material.

The thickness of the board for a country house must be at least 35 - 50mm

The optimal thickness of the boards for flooring in a country house is 35-50 mm, a floor dock with a thickness of 50 to 70 mm will be the best option for floors in gyms and rooms with high traffic.

The width of the floorboard should be taken with a margin, taking into account the fact that the floor is periodically polished to update the appearance.

Wide boards tend to lose their shape faster than narrower materials.

The quality of the boards

Wood, depending on the quality requirements, is divided into the following classes:

№	Class	Quality requirements
1	Extra	Has a smooth front surface without defects and knots.
2	A	Has a smooth surface without a core, fallen out knots, cracks, chips. It is allowed to contain knots located no more than 150 cm apart, small blue spots, 2 small surface cracks and the presence of resin.
3	V	4 knots per 150 cm, 2 superficial cracks, minor surface damage and resin are acceptable.
4	WITH	Belongs to the lowest class, may contain 2 knots, surface cracks, contrasting stripes, blue, mechanical damage.

Wood species

Before purchasing a material for flooring made of natural material, you need to study its properties and select the material that is optimal for the operating conditions.

Types of wood:

№	Wood species	Specifications
1	Coniferous trees	They are most in demand, as they have the best price-quality ratio. Pine and spruce contain a large amount of resins that protect the material from destruction under the influence of moisture and protect against the formation of mold, as they are a natural antiseptic. Fir requires treatment with antiseptic agents, since it contains an insufficient amount of resin. Conifers emit a pleasant smell into the air, which has a beneficial effect on the human respiratory system. This material has good vapor permeability, which allows you to maintain a normal level of humidity in the room.
2	Aspen and alder	They do not have a significant service life, they have insufficient strength. But they have a positive effect on human health, as they emit useful tannins. Most often they are used for flooring in children's rooms, baths and private saunas. Not suitable for installation in rooms with high traffic and high loads.
3	Linden	Requires treatment with an antiseptic, since the wood has insufficient strength and is susceptible to the formation of fungi and decay. It is inexpensive, retains heat well in the room, emits a fragrant smell, has a beautiful structure.
4	Cedar	It has a very beautiful structure, high strength and resistance to high humidity. In addition, essential oils that are part of the wood have a beneficial effect on health and help maintain a healthy indoor climate. This type of wood has a high cost, but pays off due to its unique qualities.
5	Siberian larch	Has 12 shades, has high strength and durability. Larch is resistant to moisture, does not rot and mold. It emits aromas into the air that have antiseptic properties, thanks to which a healthy climate is maintained in the house.
6	Oak	It has long been famous for its durability and long service life. The material does not lose its properties under the influence of moisture, is not subject to putrefactive processes and the formation of fungal infections. Possesses high rates of heat saving and sound insulation. It has a high cost, but due to its durability it pays off in the process of use.

Determine how many boards are there per 1 cubic meter

When buying floorboards, take material with a margin

All lumber is sold in cubes. To calculate the amount of material per 1 cubic meter, you need to calculate the volume of one board. To do this, you need to multiply the dimensions of the purchased lumber: width * thickness * length.

Let's say we will use material 35 X 100 X 6000 mm. We translate the data into meters: 35 mm = 0.35 m, 100 mm = 0.1 m, 6000 mm = 6 m.

We find the volume of the board: 0.035 * 0.1 * 6 = 0.021 cubic meters. m.

Determine how much material is in a cube: 1 cube: 0.021 cube = 47.62 pcs.

Table of the amount of standard lumber in 1 cube:

The size	Volume of one board	Number of pieces in a cube with a length of 6 m
25 x 100	0,015	66,6
25 x 150	0,0225	44,4
25 x 200	0,03	33,3
40 x 100	0,024	41,6
40 x 150	0,036	27,7
40 x 200	0,048	20,8
50 x 50	0,015	66,6

Usually, during shipment, the number of boards in a cube is rounded down. It is recommended to purchase the material with a margin of 15-30%, since some of the material may go to waste.

In addition, over time, it may be necessary to replace some kind of board, and material from another batch may not fit.

Undried material will begin to crack and warp

Humidity for a floor board in a house should be no more than 12-14%. The board for use in the bath can be purchased with an average humidity level of 20-25%.

If well-dried lumber is used in a damp room, it can swell in damp conditions, leading to warping of the floor covering.

You should not buy wet lumber in the hope that it will dry out before installation. Improper drying will deform the wood. Drying should be carried out in special chambers at a certain temperature and drying time.

The best quality will be the material collected in the autumn-winter period. The more resin and tannins are in the composition, the less the material is subject to deformation. For information on how to determine the moisture content of wood, see this video:

You can check the moisture level yourself with a wood moisture meter.

What to look for when choosing

When buying, check the evenness of the edges of the board

Installation of the floor is an important stage in construction, so the choice of material must be approached responsibly.

How to choose the right board:

1. First, you need to check the compliance of the geometric parameters: the edges must be even and the thickness along the entire length must be the same.
2. On grooved lumber, we pay attention to the high-quality elements of the lock connection: the groove should be deeper than the ridge in height. If the ridge is larger than the groove, it will not work to join the floor boards without creating gaps. For information on how to choose a floorboard, see this video:

Looking at the end part of the material, you can immediately see if there are any flaws. Before buying, it is recommended to selectively check several boards for high-quality docking with each other.

Correctly chosen material guarantees the lifespan of the wooden floor 30-50 years.

Nowadays they are becoming extremely popular. It's all about their environmental friendliness and aesthetics. Floor boards must be selected in such a way that they meet certain operational requirements. First of all, they should not bend when walking and under heavy enough furniture.

When buying, you need to pay attention to both the type of wood from which the boards are made and their thickness.

For example, planks made of soft wood are quite suitable. Usually it is inexpensive pine or spruce. In addition, quite valuable species of European trees are often used for these purposes. Floor boards, if they are finished, should be made of hard wood. It can be beech, oak, yew, merbau. Mahogany floors and larch floors look great.

As for the thickness, it is chosen, first of all, taking into account the step between the lags. In the event that the distance between them is 80-85 cm, you can take boards with a thickness of 3.5-4 mm.

Thicker material will be needed at 1m steps. If the logs are laid at a distance of 50-80 cm, thinner floor boards can be used. In addition, when buying, you must take into account the quality of the material. It should have as few knots as possible. Of course, there should be no rot and wood-boring beetles at all.

When laying, it is necessary to adhere to a certain temperature and humidity regime. The fact is that wood is capable of absorbing moisture from the surrounding air. Therefore, the humidity in the room should not exceed 60%, and the temperature should be below +8 degrees. A floor board, the price of which is quite high, requires careful handling during operation. The above mode will be optimal with the further use of the coating. It must be said that in modern apartments the humidity indicator can be in the range of 18-70%.

Therefore, it is better not to use breeds that are capricious in this regard.

Stable ones - those that practically do not react to such changes in the microclimate, contain a large amount of tannins. Floorboards made of oak, ash, teak or merbau can be the best option in this regard. If the apartment owners want to see wooden floors in their house, they should think about purchasing an air humidifier. Using it indoors can significantly extend the life of such a finish.

For the installation of a monolithic coating, a tongue-and-groove floor board is suitable. It differs from the usual one in the presence of a tenon / groove device. Such a coating is considered to be more durable. When installing it, the first board is laid with a ridge against the wall. The material is nailed to the logs, sinking their caps into the wood.

In order for the floors to last much longer, additional protection must be provided for them. First, the boards are treated with an antifungal agent. One of the disadvantages of wood is its flammability. And therefore, it is also desirable to treat with a special composition that increases the fire-resistant properties of this material. Well, at the final stage, the boards should be varnished or painted.

The arrangement of a long-term and high-quality wooden flooring includes not only issues of compliance with technology, but also what boards are needed for the floor, based on the characteristics of its operation in each room.

Each type of board has its own technical characteristics and is designed for different types of floors. The correct choice will be confirmed by a long service, no squeak, cracked cracks and warpage.

Usage criteria

For the installation of the topcoat, materials with appropriate quality indicators must be used.

For a wooden board, these will be the following criteria:

For different types of wood, these characteristics differ within a fairly wide range. In addition to massive boards made from natural raw materials, more than 20 types of various wood-shaving materials are offered, used to cover the base.

A solid board differs from a glued product in the absence of synthetic fumes and the possibility of repeated grinding of the worn surface (maintainability).

Influence of wood species

Plank coverings are laid not only inside buildings, but also on open verandas, balconies and terraces. The internal location also differs in temperature and humidity, walls, ceilings (kitchen, library, basement and utility rooms).

In the harsh outdoor conditions, exotic timber planks have proven their worth. Due to their good physical and mechanical properties in terms of resistance to climatic influences, they serve in the local area for at least 20 years.

Rosewood has special decorative qualities.

The following breeds have gained practical distribution:

• rosewood;
• bamboo;
• zebrano;
• bunga;
• merbau;
• sucupira.

Of the local breeds, Siberian larch is used for such purposes.

For internal work, it is advisable to use more affordable domestic materials of common rocks with the selected properties:

Hard rocks are designed for areas with high traffic and high loads

Conifers are used in humid air for sub-flooring and budget coverage options.

Solid dock fits in places of heavy furniture loads, frequent walking, attractive texture appearance. Softwood is used to decorate recreation areas where there are no intense loads.

Normal moisture content of wood should be in the range of 8 - 10% and certainly not exceed 12%. Otherwise, shrinkage will lead to a change in linear dimensions, gaps or weakening will appear in the element locks. Retention of high humidity will cause warpage of parts.

Additional treatment with antiseptic compounds, stains and fire retardants extends the service life with fluctuations in humidity and temperature.

Board types

The quality indicators of materials in aggregate can be determined by referring to a certain class.

In relation to floorboards, this affects not only the strength, but also the appearance, the cost of a cube of material.

There are 4 classes of wood products:

1. Higher. The surface does not contain the slightest scratches, knots, veneer traces, color transitions.
2. A (1st grade). There are irregularities in the structure, slight color differences, knot marks.
3. B (2nd grade). On the surface of the boards there may be knots, minor cracks, resin pockets, color stains.
4. C (grade 3). Defects larger than 3 mm are present, curvature of the plane is possible.

Boards belonging to the class "C" are used for filing the subfloor due to their unattractive appearance and low technical characteristics.

With this material, a finishing coating is performed in a budgetary version, if additional grinding and painting is done.

The grade of the board affects the design of the future floor, since the number of defects directly proportionally reduces the performance of the flooring:

The thickness of the most commonly used floorboard for residential premises is 2-4 cm, the width is within 10 - 30 cm, the length depends on the size of the room 3 - 6 m. Parquet board acts as a separate position in terms of dimensions and installation technology from floor coverings.

Influence of the thickness of the parquet version on the possibility of application

10mm board can be sanded once

In addition to decorative features and an indicator of hardness, an important parameter will be the thickness of the parquet board for the floor, which one should be chosen for the specific conditions of the room.

The main criteria will be the estimated wear and tear and the prospect of repair associated with this factor:

1. A solid wood board with a thickness of 10 mm can be sanded (with the removal of the top layer no more than 2 mm) once.
2. The thickness of 12 mm allows the board to be scraped and used for decking over a warm floor.
3. The most common thickness of wood material in individual construction will be 15 mm. This is determined by the presence of special locking joints in the products and the possibility of repeated repairs.
4. Thick parquet boards (up to 2 cm) are usually used in the construction of capital floors in offices, social and cultural institutions. It is distinguished by its high strength, the ability to withstand alternating loads and high humidity conditions for a long time.
5. The maximum thickness of the parquet strip is 2.2 cm. This type-setting element is laid in public buildings in which there is a constant high load from the movement of the traffic flow. Installation is carried out by the deck method, which is more suitable for long-term operation. For more information on the properties of a parquet board, see this video:

The quality of installation and the further behavior of wooden typesetting surfaces directly depend on the preparation of the base for their laying.

Types of bases

The support plane for the planks must be level and suitable for the maximum design loads.

The types of bases can be of the following form:

• concrete floor slabs;
• cement strainer;
• wooden logs;
• old wooden floor;
• plywood sheets laid on a screed;
• GVP sheets on a dry screed.

According to the method of attaching the board to the base, the following structures are distinguished:

• fixing to the logs with self-tapping screws (nails);
• adhesives;
• floating styling.

The tree is easy to process, but requires additional protection from the constant action of a large amount of moisture. For this, waterproofing inside the building and drainage of water for outdoor installation are provided.

When erecting and repairing a wooden floor, it is important to choose the right boards (floorboards), as well as to install them correctly. Typically, grooved boards are chosen for the floor, with ventilation grooves on the back.

Now you can choose and buy boards that do not require additional processing - with impregnation and paintwork on the outside.

Depending on the design of the floors, the boards must be sized according to their size.
What floorboards in what cases to choose, what to look for when choosing floorboards - we will consider in more detail.

What thickness of floorboards to choose

Logs are often the basis of a wooden floor, a thick board is laid on them, which is not only a beautiful floor covering, but also a supporting element of the structure.
The usual thickness is 32 - 45 mm.

Another option - the board serves only as a design, it is not a load-bearing one; it is laid on a sub-floor - a solid plank, plywood covering or on a concrete base. In this case, a parquet board with a thickness of 15 - 25 mm is selected.

If the board will bear the bending load, then you cannot save on its thickness. In such a design, the main thing is to ensure stability and rigidity, so that the floor underfoot does not vibrate. Flimsy floors will not be liked by anyone in the future.

It is important that the span between the supporting posts for the logs, and the distance between the logs, are optimal. These parameters depend on the height of the log and the thickness of the covering boards - i.e. strength of load-bearing elements.
The height of the lag and the distance between them are dictated primarily by the standard dimensions of the sheets or insulation mat.

For example, for the average climatic zone, at least 16 cm of glass wool should be placed above the ventilated underground, the usual width of its mat is 60 cm, therefore, between the centers of the lag there should be 75 cm, with a width of 15 cm.

The savings in thickness are closely related to the wood species. After all, it is the value of a tree that determines its price.

Sizes and construction of boards

Floor boards (floorboards) are joined together by tongue and groove. Each board has a tongue (comb) on one side on the side end, and a groove on the other. Usually the tongue has a trapezoidal bevel - then the boards can be easily joined even long, which is important for the quality of the flooring.
Simplified square tongue designs are now considered obsolete.

The length of the boards is adjusted according to the size of the room. The standard lengths of floorboards that can be found on sale are 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5 and 6 meters.

It is known that the orientation of the boards in the room is chosen from the window - along the beam of the main illumination. Consequently, the logs are located parallel to the wall with the window.

It is desirable that the installation is carried out only with a solid board along the length, i.e. the length of the board would be enough for the size of the room.

But if the room is large, then you have to lay two, or even three boards along the length. In this case, a gap of 3 mm must be left between their ends. In the future, it is likely to increase due to drying out of the wood. At the junction, the ends of the floorboards may bulge. In general, the end joint of the boards is a problematic place on the floors and should be avoided, even if you have to buy larger boards.

If there is an end joint, then it is important to alternate boards of different lengths when laying, so that the seams between them are alternately on two different logs, and even better, alternately - on 3 logs.

The width of the boards for laying on the joists can be in the range of 70 - 200mm.
But the wider the board, the greater the possible warpage. Usually, a material with a width of 100 - 120 mm is chosen for a wooden floor. Wider ones - only the highest grade and with special training.

A gap of 1 - 1.5 cm is left between the boards of the wooden floor and the wall.

Wood species

The cheapest boards are pine or spruce. But they are soft, it is not difficult to leave a mark in them both with the heel and the leg of the furniture, they are not the most durable.
Nevertheless, this is a popular option for laying on logs - creating a finished floor immediately from a load-bearing board along the logs above the insulation, which, together with the underground, is fenced off with a vapor barrier.

Usually pine boards are purchased in the state of a semi-finished product, they are initially stacked with fastening of each 4 boards, and after six months - a year the floor is overlapped, the boards are rallied, while each board is already attached.

It should be borne in mind that valuable hardwoods of this thickness are not actually used. After all, the total price will be quite significant. Oak, beech, hornbeam, larch, and various other exotic, - boards from these types of wood are usually selected with a thickness of 16 - 20 mm. This board is laid on a solid, level surface.

Now it is more convenient to buy boards of valuable breeds ready-made.- with a completed surface treatment, with varnishing, than to independently engage in painting and grinding.

Also, many believe that the use of pine and spruce is not entirely environmentally friendly, due to the significant release of various substances from the resin. Hazardous concentrations can occur in non-ventilated areas.
Wood resin is a very rich mixture of resin and fatty acids, esters of these acids, sterols, alcohols, waxes and rezenes. It is known that the content of the essential extract is maximum in autumn-winter and minimum in spring-summer, since the resin is consumed during the intensive growth of the plant. You can focus on the time of timber harvesting. Therefore, soft, non-resinous species - alder, and others are widely used ...

The technology of laying thin boards made of hardwood is not complicated, but it has its own specifics. The nuances depend on the size of the board. Next, consider the laying of thick load-bearing boards along the joists.
Additionally -

Humidity

Humidity is a key parameter. Boards that are sold in packages ready to be laid on the floor usually have a moisture content of no more than 10%. Large companies adhere to the standard - no more than 7% for a finished painted floorboard or parquet set.

It is recommended to lay boards with a moisture content of up to 15%. You can measure it with a special device. By eye, you can only estimate "wet - dry" - if the board makes a sonorous sound upon impact, it shines - it means dry.

Usually wet boards are dried before stacking for at least six months in stacks. Laying in stacks with three to five transverse bars, allows you to minimize the distortion, warping of the wood when drying.
- This is especially true for logs, which may be in increased dampness and must be ventilated through the underground.

Quality classes

Floorboards differ in quality classes.

• Highest - no knots, cracks, uniform shade, moisture up to 12%.
• A - a possible discernible change in shade and structure, knots, cracks are absent.
• B - single cracks, white knots, stain in color are allowed.
• C - cracks, knots, irregularities are allowed.

Class C material is used only for creating subfloors for high-quality flooring.

How is lagging done

Distinguish between primary and final planking of planks. The primary is done in the first half of the year before the final drying and resizing of the boards. After that, gaps may appear between the boards.
Therefore, the boards are rallied again, while each board is attached to the logs (with the primary - every 4). It is possible to mount "through the lag", the attachment points on each board alternate in a checkerboard pattern.

There are curved walls, therefore, in order to maintain the general direction of the flooring, the first board is cut along the wall configuration. Align the first board along the stretched cord, which sets the general direction.


The first board is laid with a groove to the wall and along the edge is attached from above with screws to each log, so that the screw heads cover the plinth. The last board will also be attached.
The rest of the boards are attached to the logs with screws screwed at 50 - 60 degrees to the horizontal along the edge of the tongue. In this case, a hole is pre-drilled in the floorboards for the screw. The screw must go into the log at least 3 cm.

It is advisable to use a screwdriver for laying floors, otherwise the work will be long.

The quality of installation will depend entirely on the evenness of the base. Lags are set at the same level, and this is a must.

Planks can be pulled together by various leverage devices, both with a vertical arrangement of the lever, and with a horizontal one. In this case, the device can be attached to the logs with a screw or by hammering in thorns.

It is also possible to rally in the old fashioned way - with the help of two wedges resting on staples driven into the log.

Choosing the right floorboard is just as important as the construction of the floor. After all, the final result largely depends on the board that was laid on the logs.

In the general case, the floorboard can be any lumber fixed to the joists. Most often, this name is understood as a tongue-and-groove board. This is lumber, which has three finished sides - two ends and one plane - the front side. On the lateral sides, tongue-and-groove piles are formed with a special machine: a groove on one side, a thorn on the other. When laying, the thorn is driven into a groove, which gives the coating additional strength and can partially hide the cracks formed during drying. And even a slightly cracked tongue-and-groove floor looks good.

A tongue-and-groove board can have a comb of different shapes. It is most convenient for laying if it has a conical shape. The cone fits easily even with slight curvature of the boards. It is much more difficult to deal with a rectangular spike. If there are deviations, the board is not ideal, then you either have to suffer with it for a long time, or cut it into pieces no more than 2-3 meters long, and then join the segments. It turns out a completely different, untidy look.

Also, floorboards come with a "quarter" molded protrusion. This is when half the width of the board is removed from one side from below, from the other - from above. This type is even easier to fit than a traditional spike-groove board, while the floor looks no worse.

There is another type of floorboard - with edges beveled at 45 °. It is also not very common, although it is no worse in operation and in aesthetics.

Sometimes an ordinary edged board is laid on the floor - it has the shape of a rectangle in cross-section. It is laid close - end to end - and so it is fixed with nails or self-tapping screws. If we talk about baths, then when arranging leaking floors, it is the edged board that will be the best option. In other cases, preference should be given to options with any type of locks: when drying, the cracks are not so noticeable.

In addition to the grooved solid wood board, there is also a glued one. It consists of several boards glued together. At the same time, the wood fibers are positioned so that under any conditions its geometry remains practically unchanged. If it does change, then it is several times less than massive. But due to the laboriousness of manufacturing such material, prices for it are high. But the floor from the glued board is almost guaranteed to be flat.

Types of floorboard locks

There is another type of lumber that is laid on the floor. This is a decking board. It differs in that its front part is not even, but wavy. And even if the board is wet, it is not slippery to walk on it. It is rarely used indoors, mainly due to the fact that it is very difficult to bring an uneven surface to an ideal state. But during the construction of a bath, it can come in handy if you arrange a pool or hot tub on the porch. Having laid a deck board around the pool, you can not be afraid that someone will slip.

Terrace board looks very attractive on the floor.

Any kind of lumber is in the Euro category. There is a floorboard euroboard, grooved or not, there is a terrace. The only difference is in the presence of a longitudinally located groove on the back side, which contributes to better ventilation. There must be a difference in the quality of the wood: no knots. But the best quality is not always available, and higher prices are always available. If you decide to take the option with a groove, be sure to meticulously check the quality of the material, geometry.

Wood species for flooring

Any wood can be laid on the floor. The only question is your preferences and material capabilities. The purpose of the premises can also play a role.

For saunas, a board of conifers is traditionally placed on the floor. She is the most inexpensive, and her quality indicators are quite good. Conifers contain a large amount of resins (pine and spruce), some contain tannins (larch), which prolongs their life in conditions of constantly changing temperatures and humidity. The only drawback of pine and spruce are soft breeds and, if a lot of people are steamed, they quickly wear off. But if the bath is a family one, occasionally visited, then such wood will stand for a long time.

Speaking specifically about the premises, the larch will behave better in "wet" conditions: it only gets stronger from the water. Pine and spruce are best placed in a dressing room or break room. They cannot stand the constant presence of water, especially since not many people want to treat wood for steam rooms with antiseptics, and without them they will most likely begin to rot.

They put wood and hardwood on the floor, but it is more prone to rotting, and even more often it darkens from water. There are some more nuances that are determined only by experience. For example, oak wood is durable, not afraid of water. But it is better not to put it on the floor in wet rooms: it is very slippery when wet. It is impossible to walk on it, so you will have to cover this beauty with anti-slip rugs.

It looks like a grooved euro-board in profile

When installing a double plank floor for roughing and finishing, the boards must be taken from the same wood. For the rough floor, unedged will go (it is imperative to remove the bark and process it from bugs), for the finishing one - edged, tongue-and-groove. But only from the same wood. Otherwise, due to the different magnitudes of expansion and contraction, the floor may move with changes in temperature and humidity.

Floor board dimensions

The minimum thickness of the boards for laying on the floor is determined by the step of laying the logs. The greater the distance between two adjacent supports, the greater the thickness of the lumber is needed.

Table of the dependence of the thickness of the floorboard on the step of installing the lag

But this is the minimum thickness. It is advisable to take with some margin: taking into account the fact that periodically it will be necessary to update the appearance - to grind, removing the top layer. If the thickness is taken "end-to-end", after one or two grinding, the floorboards will begin to sag underfoot and creak - not the greatest pleasure. To get rid of the "dancing" boards, you will have to lay new, thicker boards, or reduce the lag step (increase their number), which is also not fun.

The width of the boards can be different - from 30 mm to 120 mm. In general, it turns out like this: the wider the board, the fewer joints and faster installation. Therefore, for ordinary dry rooms, you can choose a wide board. But it must be said that a cube of a wide board costs more than the same volume of a narrower one: there is more waste.

When choosing the width of the boards in the bath, there are also some nuances. It is better not to take wide boards: with an increase in humidity, they change their geometry more strongly. Sometimes it is so strong that walking becomes problematic. Therefore, in the steam room or shower, a narrow or medium-wide board is used.

How many boards are in one cubic meter

Having decided on the size of the floorboards, you need to calculate how much you need to buy: lumber is sold per cubic meters.

There are no strict standards in this industry, just as there is no clear distinction between varieties. Some growers only distinguish two varieties, others may have five or six. You have to navigate on the spot.

The only thing that is clear is that higher-grade products should not have knots at all. It is advisable to buy them if you want to varnish the board. If you plan to paint, then there is no point in overpaying for the absence of knots: they are still not visible under the paint. The only thing you need to pay attention to is that they are not "dead" - black. Black knots are crumbling and falling out, but we don't need it.

There is only a more or less established standard in length: 6 meters. But many sawmills make both three and two meter boards. Moreover, a cubic meter of three meters will cost less than six meters. So if you don't need a long board, look for the right size: it will come out cheaper.

Now how to calculate the number of boards in a cube. To do this, you need to calculate the volume of one board. You have decided on the width and thickness of the board, knowing the standard length, you can calculate its volume: you need to multiply all the dimensions. But they must be expressed in meters.

For example, we will lay a 40 * 150 mm board. We convert millimeters to meters:

40 mm = 0.04 m, 150 m = 0.15 m

We will take the standard length of 6 m. The total will be 0.04 m * 0.15 m * 6 m = 0.036 m 3. One board is 0.036 cubic meters. Now we find how many such boards will be in one cube (we divide the unit by 0.036), we get 27.7 pieces, but 27 pieces will be shipped.

Knowing this algorithm, you can calculate the amount of any board or timber. To make it easier for you, the volume of one board of the most popular sizes and their number in a cubic meter are calculated and entered in the table (for six-meter lumber).

Now about the volume of purchases. Having calculated how many boards you will need, take with a margin of at least 10-15% (and preferably 30%). Firstly, there is always a marriage, and secondly, most likely in a year or two, the floor will have to be sorted out - cracks will appear, some boards will be unscrewed with a "propeller". And then you will need to change or add boards. If there is nothing left, then those bought from another batch are unlikely to become normal. There will definitely be problems: either it will not go in thickness, or there will be problems with a thorn-groove. In general, some pieces should be in stock for a couple of years.

How to choose

First of all, you need to determine the humidity. The most optimal option for baths is an average humidity of about 20-25%. If you take a board of natural moisture, it will lead when drying, there will be many "skis" and "propellers". They can then be used only in the construction of fences. If you take overdried - chamber drying - in conditions of high humidity in the bath, it will begin to swell, the floor will warp and rise. So the best option is medium humidity.

The first step in buying is to check the geometry. When choosing an edged board, pay attention to the fact that the edges are even. And the thickness on one side was equal to the thickness on the other side. In principle, this parameter should be checked when buying any high-quality sawn timber (except for unedged boards). Take a caliper and measure in several places along the board from one side and the other. There shouldn't be any difference.

When buying grooved boards, you should also pay attention to the geometry and dimensions of the ridge and groove. In order for everything to connect without problems, the groove is made a little deeper than the height of the ridge. Then everything fits together easily. On an incorrectly tuned machine, the opposite is often the case. Then, no matter how hard you try, you won't be able to make a floor without cracks. We'll have to either change the boards (if possible) or remove part of the spike.

There is one more mistake that is made in the production of grooved boards: the upper edge above the spike (ridge) is profiled more than the lower one. With such a defect, gaps are generally inevitable: it is more difficult to deal with this defect. Only special equipment is required.

You also need to check how much the boards sagged during drying. They are stacked in piles, shifting with bars. Sometimes they become uneven. Then, when laying, it will be problematic to join them.

All of these shortcomings are fairly easy to identify. First you need to inspect the ends of the boards. If you know what to look for (and you now know), the flaws are immediately visible. Calculate the dimensions of the spike and groove, and also see if the edges are evenly located above the spike. If everything is ok, take two planks and join them as you would when laying. If their geometry is not broken, they fit easily and without gaps. If the tests are successful, the tongue-and-groove floorboard can be taken: it will be installed quickly and easily.

How and what to fix

A few years ago, there were no discrepancies: the floorboard was nailed to the logs through and through. Sometimes the hat was flattened and then driven into the depths by the doboiner - this so that nothing could be seen. This can be done today too. And save money at the same time: nails are cheaper. But after a while, a large number of cracks appear in the plank floor. To get rid of them, the floor is dismantled, compacted, one or two boards are added to the wall - how it goes. This is where self-tapping screws have an advantage: they are easier to dismantle and without damaging the wood. Try to get a nail with a flattened head and not break the wood. No way. Therefore, more and more often they "sit down" on self-tapping screws, although the option is ambiguous: nails are stronger, and the caps of self-tapping screws, especially hot ones, often fly off.

Thorn or groove?

For hidden fastening, self-tapping screws are not fastened through the boards, but into a spike or groove. It is possible and through and through, into the face, but then the hats will need to be drowned in the board, and the holes should be covered with putty. Even if the floor is painted, although this is done very rarely in the baths. If you take a putty for wood of the appropriate color, and add some wood dust from your boards into it, then even under a light varnish you will hardly see anything.

If the screws are screwed into the groove, then at an angle of about 60 °. If in a thorn, then the angle is less - it can be almost perpendicular to the plane of the floor. The second option holds the board more reliably (captures ¾ of the thickness), although the “groove” method is more common.

In any case, you first need to drill a hole under the head with a larger drill and a smaller self-tapping screw under the rod. This operation, although it takes time, serves as a guarantee that the board will not burst.

Concealed attachment technology

The technology of hidden flooring is as follows: the first board is nailed tightly through and through. The second and subsequent ones are attached, beaten with wedges, or better - they are attracted by clamps so that there are no cracks anywhere. Then fasteners are screwed or hammered into the groove or spike at an angle. If the wood is dense, self-tapping screws go hard. To make the process easier, the threads are lubricated with soap (it can be slightly moistened to make it easier to smear).

With this method of fastening, neither nails nor self-tapping screws are visible. But, if there is one drawback: only one edge of the board is attracted to the lag. When humidity changes, shrinkage or movement of the foundation, the other can rise. It turns out the floor is uneven, and it squeaks more often. Although, it's never too late to drive a few nails or screw a few self-tapping screws into the face.

What screws to take

What self-tapping screws to use for flooring in a bath? Preferably with a thread that does not start from the head itself. It will be safer to hold it this way. And it's better to take non-heated ones - they are stronger. For a bath, it is better - galvanized - they will not rust. The length of the self-tapping screw depends on the thickness of the board: it should be 2.5 times larger. It seems that according to the parameters of self-tapping screws - everything. With nails, everything is easier: you need ordinary ones, but not screw or grooved - it is almost impossible to pull them out without damaging the wood.

It is better to take self-tapping screws with a thread that does not start from the head itself

There is one secret inherited from our ancestors. It will allow you to use ordinary nails in the bath, and they will not rust: they need to be boiled in drying oil. Once dry, you can use it. Shingles were nailed to the roofs with such nails, and they did not rust for decades.

So: you need to decide on your own with the method of fastening and the choice of fasteners. There are different opinions, and they are all based on experience - their own or ancestors. But it has long been known: how many people, so many opinions. Add your own. But remember that in a year or two, the floor will have to be touched. So for the first time it is worth fastening to a minimum of nails or self-tapping screws - as you decide. Then, already shrunken, it will be possible to fix it thoroughly.

How the floorboard is installed and how clamps are used to eliminate cracks, see the video.

A device for tightening floorboards can be made by hand according to the attached video instruction.