Little secrets of flower transplantation. Secrets of replanting ornamental grasses in the garden When to replant plants in the garden

Bergenia, doronicum, delphinium and many other perennial garden plants growing in one place form large clumps over several years. Strongly overgrown plants begin to lack nutritional area and stop developing. And here you can’t do without transplanting perennials. If you don’t do this, the flowers will begin to get smaller, and the flowering itself will no longer be as attractive as before.

It is best to replant a bush in early spring, before mid-May, before growth begins, or in the fall, in September - October. How to determine when to replant which perennial?

Plants with creeping rhizomes (fern, stachys, or chistets, perennial aster, raspberry) do not require frequent replanting; they can be replanted once every eight to ten years.

Plants with compact rhizomes (peony, hosta, daylily) also do not require frequent replanting. With good care, they can grow in one place for up to ten to twelve years.

Plants with fibrous root systems (phlox) require more frequent replanting, after about four years.

Plants with a taproot system (poppy, lupine) do not tolerate replanting very well, so they should be renewed every five to six years by sowing seeds. Levy and mignonette also suffer painfully from transplantation in adults.

If a perennial blooms in early spring or early summer, then the bush can be replanted after flowering, in summer or autumn, from late August to mid-September, but if perennial plants bloom in the fall, then the bush should be replanted in early spring, in April - May. In summer, conifers are also replanted. Do not replant plants in hot weather. Choose cooler, cloudy weather for transplanting.

During transplantation, you can immediately divide the rhizome into smaller parts - divisions. To do this, carefully dig up the rhizome, trying to damage the roots as little as possible. It's good to use a pitchfork for this. Wet the earthen ball with water. Sometimes this is enough for the rhizome to fall apart into several parts, for example, as in gaillardia, helenium, and rudbeckia.

Plants transplanted in the fall to a new location before winter have time to take root, take root, and bloom again the following year. Perennial asters and other perennials that bloom in the fall are best divided in early spring. Division, or vegetative propagation, of perennials is carried out with the aim of rejuvenating plants, stimulating the flowering of old bushes overgrown with grass, or perennials growing too closely. Here are just some of the perennials that need dividing the bush.

If last year you succumbed to newfangled trends and planted Sheep, Molinia or other ornamental grass on your plot, it’s time to find out what to do with these plants when spring comes. Is it worth replanting them before the growing season begins or leaving them alone until better times. Let's try to figure it out.

First of all, you need to find out which of the two main groups your grass flora belongs to - to Cold- or warm-season herbs. This will help you understand when plants begin the growing season.

Cool-season (cold-growing) grasses

The awakening of grass-like plants of this type begins early, when the outside temperature slightly exceeds 0°C. The highest growth point was noted in the temperature range of +15–24°C under conditions of high humidity and long daylight hours. Higher summer temperatures, usually accompanied by increased sunlight intensity and low precipitation, cause slower or complete cessation of growth in cool-growing grasses. ON THE PICTURE: Cold-blooming Bor, Narcissus and Hosta are the perfect trio in the spring garden.

Such plants in our climate become active mainly twice a year: in the spring And in autumn. More often they are represented by ever- and semi-evergreen species, capable of not falling into a state of dormancy even with the onset of cold weather. It is the cold-season grasses that act as the first greenery that enlivens the garden plot immediately after the snow melts. Flowering in this group occurs in spring or early summer, and with their picturesque panicles, the grass-like representatives of the flora delight the entire summer-autumn period, and sometimes even take over the winter.

Spring work

As spring approaches, cold-growing grasses need pruning. It is necessary to remove old flower stems and withered leaves, thereby making room for young foliage.

The same period is good for dividing tussocks in order to replenish the collection of ornamental grasses with new specimens. Early spring is also suitable for replanting cold-season plants. But summer is not the best time for any manipulations with cereals. Heat and dry air provoke them to go into “rest”, in which state the plants should not be disturbed.

By the way, the procedures for dividing and transplanting grasses can be carried out closer to autumn, as soon as a noticeable decrease in temperature is observed. It is better to complete this work before mid-October.

Aestivation

Despite the fact that cold-season grasses almost completely stop growing in the summer, the most favorite time of year for most gardeners, the plants still retain their decorative appearance due to their attractive spikelets and panicles. In some cultivars, like the reed grass 'Karl Foerster', the foliage throughout the hot period pleases with rich green shades.
ON THE PICTURE: Bushes of Reed grass 'Karl Foerster' look great in the sun.

However, in the heat of a significant part of ornamental grasses that prefer moderate temperatures, the foliage withers and becomes inexpressive. Therefore, you should plan the design of the flower garden in such a way that in the summer, insignificant hummocks and turf are hidden behind other plants that are more spectacular at this time.

The most famous species

Among the cold-season ornamental grasses and grasses growing at +15–23°C, the following species can be noted:

Buharnik is soft;
Feather grass;
Meadow foxtail;
Mannik is big;
Sheep evergreen;
Ozhika forest and Ozhika snow;
Perlovnik;
Wheatgrass;
Bulbous ryegrass;
Sesleria splendor and Sesleria blue;
Thin-legged gray;
The shake is medium;
and Twisty Pike;
Barley is maned.

Warm-season (warm-growing) grasses

This group of grass-like flora, on the contrary, begins to vegetate only after the soil has thoroughly warmed up. The most pleasant temperature range for it is +26–35°C. Warm-season plants are characterized by slow growth in the initial stage, followed by rapid weight gain and subsequent flowering. At the same time, such ornamental grasses bloom in summer or early autumn.

A characteristic feature of warm-season grasses is a long growing season. That is why many of them acquire a luxurious appearance only in conditions of long, hot summer. Otherwise, the plants may refuse to flower altogether.

Spring work

Dividing and replanting warm-season grasses should be done before the plants bloom - in late spring - early summer. True, it is worth taking into account the characteristics of some species of this group, which prefer to wake up from “winter” hibernation closer to June. These plants can be disturbed only after the young shoots have grown at least 10–15 cm. In cold weather, it is better to leave warm-growing herbs alone. The chances of successful transplantation or reproduction during this period are low, with the possible exception of regions with a warm climate.
ON THE PICTURE: Blooming Miscanthus will become a bright accent in any garden.

Good neighborhood

When planting grass-like plants, the main decorative effect of which occurs in the summer, one of the main tasks of the owner of a garden plot is to correctly combine the herbs with the rest of the inhabitants of the flower garden. The best neighbors for warm-season flora are spring-flowering plants. We are talking, as a rule, about bulbous plants: , . While the grass-like flora is preparing for the growing season, the garden is replete with the bright colors of blossoming primroses. When the latter “go on summer vacation,” the resulting voids in the flower garden are hidden by molinias, miscanthuses and other warm-season species that have gained strength.
ON THE PICTURE: The spreading tussock of Hakonechloa will reliably mask the bald spots formed after the bulbous flowers fade.

Spartina comb.

Successful cultivation of cereals and ornamental grasses largely depends on knowledge of their belonging to a particular group. Following the rules for growing warm- and cold-season herbs will allow you to achieve excellent results and make your garden unique!
ON THE PICTURE: Option for designing a flower garden in a natural style.

It is worth deciding on the growing season of ornamental grasses when purchasing plants. Perhaps your climate zone is only suitable for a specific group of flora.
As neighbors for grass-like grasses, it is better to choose those that will favorably emphasize the modest beauty of sods and hummocks and, if necessary, hide withered foliage during the latter’s “hibernation.”
Warm-growing herbs will help hide the empty spaces in the garden that form after the spring primroses wither.
You should not replant, let alone divide, ornamental grasses during flowering - the plants may die.

As long as you garden, you will have to plant new garden plants, so it is important to learn how to do it correctly from the very beginning.

The method of planting garden plants depends on the type of garden plants. Regardless of whether you are planting garden plants with bare roots or grown in a container, it is better to fill the planting hole not with garden soil, but with a planting mixture. Prepare a mixture of 1 part mineral soil and 1 part peat moss in advance and store it in the shed until you need it for planting or replanting your garden plants.

PLANTING (TRANSPLANTING) GARDEN PLANTS WITH A CLOSED ROOT SYSTEM (CRS)

Very often you will have to deal with garden plants or seedlings grown in a nursery and dug out of the ground before planting. Evergreen garden plants are usually sold with a ball of earth packed in a plastic net or film. Plant garden plants in moist soil. Squeeze a handful of soil in your palm - it should be wet enough to form a clump, but dry enough so that the clump breaks when it hits the ground. Prepare your garden plant for replanting. Before you dig up transplanted garden plants, be sure to water them - dry soil will crumble from the roots. Try not to disturb the earthen ball when planting garden plants.

The golden rule for the correct planting and replanting of garden plants in an easy-care garden: It is important to learn how to plant new garden plants correctly from the very beginning. The method of planting garden plants depends on the type of garden plants. Regardless of whether you are planting garden plants with bare roots or grown in a container, it is better to fill the planting hole not with garden soil, but with a planting mixture.

Prepare the planting hole taking into account the size of the root system of garden plants. The width of the hole should be much greater than its depth so that the roots of garden plants can be well spread. Use the right equipment. Plant garden trees, shrubs and mature perennial garden plants with a shovel, and smaller garden plants with a scoop. Plant garden plants at the correct depth. When planting seedlings of flowerbed flowers and vegetables or rooted cuttings, make sure that the upper part of the earthen ball held by the roots is slightly below the soil level. When replanting mature garden plants, be guided by traces of old soil on the stem. Plant garden plants correctly. When planting small garden plants, fill the voids around the earthen ball with soil and compact it with your fingers or the handle of a scoop. When planting larger garden plants, add soil in layers, lightly compacting each layer with your fists until the planting hole is completely filled. When starting to plant garden trees, immediately install support pegs. When replanting herbaceous garden plants, hold an earthen ball or leaves in your hands - under no circumstances hold the garden plant by the stem. After planting, water the garden plant.

PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING GARDEN PLANTS WITH AN OPEN ROOT SYSTEM (OBS)

Garden plants dug up from a nursery are sometimes sold with their root systems exposed; Once upon a time, all roses were sold in this form. The obvious advantages of such seedlings are the roots (you can determine how healthy they are) and the price. To prevent the roots from drying out, they are sprinkled with some damp material, such as peat. Bare-root garden plants are less expensive than container-grown plants, but that doesn't mean they don't do as well. On the contrary, some garden shrubs take root even better. Garden plants are planted during the dormant period, in autumn or spring, preferably between mid-October and the end of November, but if the soil at this time is heavy and too damp, it is better to postpone planting garden plants until March. Weak stems and damaged roots of garden plants are cut out, and if garden plants are planted in the fall, then leaves and faded flowers are also removed from them. If the stems of garden plants are in the basement, soak the roots in a bucket of water for two hours before planting. The hole for planting garden plants should be wide enough to distribute the roots evenly. Place a layer of planting mixture at the bottom of the hole before planting garden plants; This is especially important to do on poor soils. The trace of old soil on the trunk of a garden plant should be level with the soil level in the new place - to maintain the correct planting depth, place a board across the hole. Lightly sprinkle the roots of the garden plant with the potting mixture. Gently shake the garden plant up and down and add a little more mixture. Firm it around the roots with your fists - do not press too hard. Fill the hole halfway with planting mixture and carefully compact it with your foot. Fill the hole to the brim with planting mixture. Compact it with your fists or feet - do not step on it at full force when planting garden plants. Lightly loosen the surface of the soil. Water your garden plant.

PLANTING (TRANSPLANTING) GARDEN PLANTS GROWN IN A CONTAINER

The fastest way to create an attractive garden is to plant container-grown garden plants, which avoids damaging the roots when planting. These garden plants can be grown from seeds, rooted cuttings, or grafted onto rootstock and then transplanted into a plastic or metal container. Sometimes large garden plants dug up from open ground shortly before sale are sold in containers. You can check if this is the case in the following way: lightly pull the stem of a garden plant and see how tightly the garden plant sits in the container. If a garden plant can be easily removed along with a lump of earth, then you should not buy it. Garden plants grown in a container can be planted at any time of the year, but the soil should not be frozen or oversaturated with moisture. The depth of the hole should be such that after planting a garden plant, the lump on top is covered with a layer of planting mixture about 2.5 cm thick. The width of the hole should be such that the earth lump is surrounded on the sides by a layer of planting mixture 7.5-10 cm thick. To the bottom pour a 2.5 cm thick layer of planting mixture into the holes. Before planting the garden plant, water the garden plant thoroughly about an hour before planting. Place the container with the garden plant in the hole and cut it on the side. Holding the garden plant by the crown, carefully remove the container, being careful not to damage the earthen ball and tapping the container with a shovel, if necessary. Inspect the surface of the earthen clod. Carefully, without destroying the clump, cut out any circular or tangled roots. Fill the space between the earthen ball and the walls of the hole with planting mixture and compact it with your hands. When planting a garden plant, leave a small depression around the stem for water. After planting a garden plant, water it. Cover the soil around the planted garden plant

TRANSMISSION OF PLANTS

When transshipment, the volume of soil is increased without disturbing the integrity of the earthen coma entwined with roots. This method is relevant for young plants that grow intensively. For transshipment, they take pots that are slightly larger (two to three centimeters larger than the previous one in diameter) of those in which the plants grew before transshipment. Usually, young plants grown from seeds and petioles are transshipped; at each transshipment, a nutritious earthen mixture is added, which allows the plant to quickly develop and gain strength. The advantage of this method over replanting is that the plants receive additional nutrients necessary for intensive growth without receiving any damage, and they do not have to expend energy on restoring lost parts; in addition, plants cannot be replanted during the flowering period, and you can transfer. The disadvantage of this method is that transshipment must be done more often than transplantation, because the volume during transshipment increases slightly.

Mulching the soil surface around garden plants is the third cornerstone of the concept of lightweight gardening.

If the soil around a garden plant is not covered with anything, it will inevitably become overgrown with weeds or compacted due to the fact that people walk on it. Covering the surface eliminates these problems. You can mulch the soil around garden plants: with materials that improve its structure and at the same time help retain moisture in it and fight weeds, materials that only prevent the growth of weeds, or plant ground cover plants that inhibit the growth of weeds and decorate the area.

Your flower garden: work of the month.

August crept up unnoticed. Behind the friendly blossoming of lilies, daylilies are blooming less and less of their flowers, exquisite in shape and color.

Mid-summer perennials are replaced by defiantly luxurious dahlias, heleniums, hibiscus, tireless helianthus, clematis, petunias, tagetes continue to bloom, annual asters begin to bloom...

Divide, plant, replant

To preserve the unique flavor of your garden for years to come, you need to remember about your plants not only when they are in bloom. Even long-lived gardens can lose their decorative properties over the years, become weak, and get sick if you don’t take care of them and don’t grow young replacements for aging plants.

August is the last month of summer, but the end of the season is still far away. Therefore, you need to take care of the appearance of your flower beds.

We will trim the elongated shoots of petunia, faded inflorescences of ageratum, trim the thyme (if we have not done this before), and “return” the overgrown clumps of sedums, geraniums, periwinkles and other perennials to their designated boundaries.

We feed all plants with complex mineral fertilizer. Don't forget to water.

Cut and remove the yellowed daylily leaves.

It is better to divide, plant and replant perennials when the heat subsides. Autumn is long, and plants have time to take root, settle into new places, and prepare well for winter.

Preparing a place for planting perennials

In the meantime, let’s prepare areas for planting perennials and bulbous plants. For each type of plant, we select a location taking into account its requirements for lighting, ventilation, stagnation of spring and rainwater. When choosing a location, we also take into account where the plants will look most advantageous.

Before digging, add compost or humus, add superphosphate (2-2.5 tablespoons), potassium sulfate (1-1.5 tablespoons). Having prepared the area, we water it to stimulate the growth of weeds and then weed them out.

August is a good time to transplant irises

Let's take a closer look at the thickets of irises. Surely, if they have not been replanted for a long time, there are a lot of frail, drooping and yellow leaves on the site. Such a curtain no longer decorates the garden, but reproaches the owners for inattention.

Let's grab a shovel and do a little work. Let's transplant the irises, choosing the healthiest links for planting in a new place - a fan of leaves and a piece of young rhizome.

Prepared divisions of irises.

In cuttings, we shorten the roots and leaves by about 10 cm, keep them in a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate, and then in the sun for about a day.

We dig holes, fill each with a mound, place a rhizome on it, straighten the roots along the slopes, cover with soil, compact with our hands, water, check the planting depth (the rhizome should be at soil level).

Planting lilies

At the end of August, you can begin to plant overgrown nests of lilies. And they divide the nest when 4-6 bulbs are formed in it. But first, let’s dig up one nest and make sure that the bulbs in it have recovered after flowering: the scales on them are juicy and elastic.

If the bulbs are loose, with thin scales, we will postpone replanting and give the bulbs additional time to recover. It is preferable to divide and replant lilies in late summer - early autumn than in spring, when the sprouts that emerge from the ground easily break off.

Preparing the soil for replanting

If lilies are transplanted in their own area, you first need to prepare the soil for planting them and only then start digging up the plants.

On heavy soils, humus and sand are added for digging (a bucket per sq. m). There is no need to add more: excess organic matter causes increased growth of the above-ground parts of plants to the detriment of flowering and the formation of healthy bulbs, reduces the winter hardiness of plants, and makes them susceptible to diseases.

Add humus or compost to light soils (a bucket per square meter). Add superphosphate and potassium sulfate - 2 and 1 tbsp, respectively. spoons. It is important to keep the lily bulbs and their roots fresh and not dry them out.

Lilies are planted to a depth 2-3 times greater than the height of the bulb. It is advisable to pour a layer of sand at the bottom of the planting grooves, on which the bulbs are placed, the roots are straightened and covered first with sand and then with good fertile soil.

Dividing overgrown peonies

We begin dividing and replanting peonies with extreme caution. For each division, we dig wide and deep holes (up to 70 cm) so that there is room to add a nutritious soil mixture: 2-3 buckets of compost or humus, a glass of potassium sulfate and superphosphate, mix everything thoroughly.

Sprinkle a 20-25 cm layer of regular fertile soil on top without fertilizers. It is advisable to prepare the holes in advance - three weeks before planting, so that the soil settles well.

If you decide to plant several bushes nearby, holes are dug a meter apart from each other. Typically, a dug out peony bush is divided into parts with 3-4 renewal buds. But experts consider cuttings with 1-2 buds and a small piece of rhizome to be higher quality planting material.

Plants obtained from such “babies” are distinguished by greater health and longevity, since their root system is almost completely renewed.

When planting on heavy soils, the buds of the divisions are buried by 3-5 cm, and on light soils by 5-7 cm. If planted shallower, the plants may suffer from frost in winter, and from overheating in summer. Deeper planting is one of the reasons for the lack of flowering in peonies.

Cuttings from perennials

August is a favorable time for cuttings of perennials. Let’s say a neighbor liked a sedum or phlox, a Korean chrysanthemum... It’s not at all necessary to wait until they give us a piece of rhizome when replanting; just ask for the apical part of the shoot of the plant you like.

If there are few cuttings, it is better to root them in some kind of bowl or seedling box placed in a shaded place. Pour drainage (sand or fine expanded clay) into the bottom of the container. Then - a three-centimeter layer of fertile soil, and then pour five centimeters of clean sand on top of it.

Having taken root in the sand, the cuttings take root in the fertile layer and begin to grow actively. For cuttings (part of a shoot with 2-3 internodes), the lower leaves are cut off, the upper leaves are shortened, and the lower part (where the leaves are cut) is buried in a moistened layer of sand.

After planting, the cuttings are covered with film or glass and placed in a shaded place. Rooted cuttings are planted in a permanent place. In the first winter, they are insulated by sprinkling the soil with compost and leaves.

A young clematis plant can be guaranteed to be obtained by digging a layer next to the bush.

This is how clematis shoots are buried.

Near the bush, we dig a groove about 10 cm deep. Without cutting, carefully remove one shoot from the trellis, place it on the bottom of the groove, fix it with wire pins and sprinkle it with nutritious soil, leaving the growth point of the shoot on the surface (20 centimeters).

The main job is done. Now all that remains is to water regularly. In a year we will have several young plants of our favorite clematis.

You can read more about clematis cuttings in the article
If you are interested in how to cut roses from a bouquet both in winter and summer, this article will be useful to you

It is not difficult to propagate Asiatic lilies. Among the bulblets formed in the axil of their leaves, you can select the largest ones (and they are larger on young plants) and plant them in a small, weed-free area.

We plant the bulbs no deeper than 2-3 cm. We place the rows 20 cm apart from the row, plant the bulbs in the row every 5-6 cm. We water the furrows before planting. We fill the bulbs with fertile soil and mulch with compost. After a year, the lilies will develop a rosette of leaves, and in the third year they will bloom.

These are the bulbs.

In August you can collect flower seeds

Don’t put off collecting perennial seeds until the fall. Seeds collected in cold, wet weather are less likely to germinate. And they can crumble before you get your hands on them.

Snapdragon flower stalks are cut for seeds when holes appear on the lower seed pods.

Zinnia seeds ripen more evenly and stay in the inflorescences well. But still, it is better to collect them and dry them in a well-ventilated area.

As they ripen, the seeds of fragrant tobacco, gatsaniya, sanvitalia, tagetes and other annuals are collected. It makes sense to collect seeds even from such “self-sowing” plants as Nigella and Eschscholzia. They themselves will sow seeds wherever they please, and in the spring you will throw them into the ground where they are appropriate.

It's time to bring indoor flowers into the house

At the end of the month we begin to gradually return indoor plants to the apartments. Before this, we wash the leaves and treat them with phytoverm so as not to bring home aphids or spider mites.

Ficus, hibiscus and other large plants that have grown over the summer may require transferring to a larger container. For other plants, it would be a good idea to replace the top layer of soil: from frequent watering, which is inevitable in the summer, it has lost its nutritional value.

Let's carefully examine the plants themselves: perhaps they need to pinch the tops, cut out weak, drying shoots.

In order not to lose the pelargonium colors you like, we cut cuttings. They will take root faster than cuttings taken in the fall. You can transplant several smaller pelargonium plants from the flower garden into pots in order to move them into rooms before the onset of autumn cold weather.

Have you noticed the “beaks” of seeds on the pelargonium inflorescences? Collect them to sow in winter. The seedlings grow into neat, abundantly flowering bushes.

We reduce the amount of nitrogen in fertilizing for all plants: let them begin to prepare for winter. We prepare hippeastrums for the dormant period by gradually reducing watering and thereby allowing the leaves to dry out and “pump” the stored nutrients into the bulbs.

We transplant the awakened cyclamen tubers into a mixture of leaf soil, humus, peat, sand (3:1:1:1).

Transplanting plants in the summer is a very risky operation; in inept hands, such an experiment can lead to prolonged illness and death of the plant, which is why gardeners try to replant plants not in the summer, but in the fall or spring. But what to do if it’s time to thin out or there is a need to make room for construction, and it’s a pity to remove a young plant? Waiting for autumn is not an option, construction cannot be postponed until the end of the dacha season, and thinned bushes will produce more fruit, therefore, having decided to replant the plant, we wait for rainy weather and begin the procedure.

Getting ready to transplant plants in the middle of summer

Bushes of roses, young ungrown gooseberries, black and red currants, lilacs, as well as small apple trees, pears, plums and other plants can be successfully replanted in the summer, without waiting for spring and late autumn, but using a certain technology.

First you need to prepare your equipment. To do this, cut off the bottom of an old but strong cylindrical metal bucket with a hacksaw or a triangular file. Sharpen the edges of the bucket with a file or a block; you can try an electric sandpaper or grinder, but you will need an assistant to use electric tools. Be careful when preparing equipment for transplanting plants.

As mentioned above, summer replanting of plants is best done in rainy weather; if heavy rains are not expected, then in the early morning, when the sun is not yet scorching, it is necessary to thoroughly water the replanted plant; soaked soil will make the operation easier.

Let's start replanting the plant in summer

Tie the branches of the plant intended for transplantation, carefully place the prepared “bucket without bottom" so that the bush is in the center, and the sharpened edges of the bucket rest against the soil. While pressing on the bucket, turning it slightly, press it into the soil as far as possible. If the bucket is shallow, the soil around it must be removed using a shovel or scoop. Having dug the ground around the bucket, we continue the procedure until the bucket reaches the desired depth. Carefully, so as not to damage the branches, roll the bucket on its side, not allowing the soil to wake up.

You may have to dig up the ground around it to tilt the bucket. Now the transplanted plant has been dug up, all that remains is to remove it from the hole along with the soil. If the shrub is to be sent over a long distance, make sure there is a tray for the bucket; it could be an old large frying pan or a shallow box or basin.

Preparing a place for plant transplantation

Before planting the plants in a new place, dig a hole of the required depth and width, water it abundantly, and after the water has gone, you can add fertilizer. Do not forget that the neck of the bush should remain at the same level as in the old place or even slightly higher. To transplant a plant to a new place, a bucket with bushes and soil is placed in a prepared hole and covered with earth, leaving only the edge of the bucket.

To free the transplanted plant and remove the bucket from the ground, fill it to the brim with water; with additional moisture in the soil, the bucket can be removed easily, just pull it gently up, slightly rocking and turning. The transplanted plant should be watered vigorously all summer.

Transplanting a plant in the summer will certainly be successful; even if some of the far-branched roots are cut off with the edge of a bucket, the main root node will remain completely untouched. By increasing the diameter and height of the walls of the “bucket” cylinder, larger plants can be successfully transplanted.

Read the following articles for useful tips and interesting information.