The simplest brick oven with your own hands. The simplest oven: from improvised means, brick without mortar and in solution

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For a long time, stoves for heating a house have been traditional heating structures and in many respects they cannot be compared not only with boilers, but also with various other heaters. They provide "live" heat, in addition, they are distinguished by their practicality and unpretentiousness in the use of solid fuel. In addition, a self-built stove will last for many years.

Stoves for heating a private house are considered an ideal choice for suburban real estate. A well-designed heating structure is capable of providing residents with a comfortable stay in each of the premises of the building. Read also: "".

DIY stove: how to do it right

At a time when stoves were the main heating method in houses, they were built and repaired by masters - stove makers. Now, with certain skills, home craftsmen have the opportunity to fold the stove with their own hands. In the absence of experience in carrying out construction work, it is advisable to entrust the arrangement of such a heating structure to professionals. It should not be forgotten that the stove belongs to the objects of increased danger.

Before proceeding with the independent construction of brick heating units, it is necessary to understand their main types and operating features:

heating stoves - they are intended exclusively for heating the house. Their masonrycarried out quickly, since their device is simple (in more detail: "");
heating and cooking ovens - today they are considered the most popular and demanded. In addition to heating the premises, you can also cook food on them, saving good money on gas and other modern heat carriers (read: "");
for cooking, a special stove is built into the heating structure, and if desired, even an oven;
fireplace stoves - thanks to the installation of such units, you can save space in the house, thereby creating more comfortable living conditions and ensuring effective heating of rooms (read: ""). It takes a little time to ignite them. Fireplace stoves have a presentable appearance that can decorate any room, both in a small country house and in a luxurious country villa (read also: "").

Do-it-yourself stoves for home are distinguished by their shape. For country houses, rectangular, square or round structures are most often chosen and such a variety of models allows you to choose the best option, based on the purpose and interior of a particular room.

In addition, regardless of the type, type and size of the fuel used, the stove must meet certain fire safety requirements. The base for a brick heating structure must certainly be concrete. Read also: "".

Location of heating stoves

When independently arranging furnace heating, it is necessary to provide for the most optimal location for installing the heating unit. If, for example, you place a structure in the middle of a room, then it will have the maximum possible heat transfer, since it will heat the space from all sides, while evenly giving off heat to the air.

In the case when the stove is placed near the wall, convection currents of cool air emanating from doors and windows will actively move around the house. As a result, with such an arrangement of the heating structure, residents will constantly feel the cold "stretching" along their legs.

Before laying the stove device, it is required, according to the installation rules, to provide for the location of the combustion chamber door (read: ""). This is necessary so that you do not have to carry armfuls of firewood across the room, carrying dirt and soot. You can avoid such problems by installing the stove in the kitchen or in a little-visited room.

Types of bases for heating structures

In the drawings of stoves for heating, the arrangement of a concrete floor or the presence of its own foundation is provided. In the latter case, the base is made in such a way that it is designed for the installation of the body of the structure and the walls of leaning against the chimney pipe, as shown.

Main components:

Toplivnik... When a do-it-yourself stove is created in a house, this element is one of the main parts of the heating unit. It must hold the maximum volume of wood or other fuel to ensure the highest performance of the structure. The size of the firebox can be different, since this parameter depends on the type of solid fuel (so for firewood, the height of the chamber ranges from 40 to 100 centimeters), volume, performance. The firebox is laid out exclusively from refractory bricks, and the thickness of its walls should be at least half a brick.
Ash pan... This chamber is equipped with a door and is located directly under the grate. It is designed to collect ash and supply air to fuel. The height of the ash pan is three bricks.
Chimney... One of the main elements that are found in every modern brick oven. Outwardly, it is similar to a coil, along which flue gases move, heating the air in the room. When a stove is created for heating a house, such as in the photo, when designing a chimney for a modern heating structure, experts do not recommend providing a large number of turns and bends, since they create additional resistance to the movement of flue gases, which results in a decrease in the efficiency of heating the room.

Preparation of the solution

The stove can serve reliably for a long time if the mortar is properly prepared for the masonry. It is made from sand, clay and water. It must be viscous, strong and durable at the same time. Preparing a clay-sand mortar is simple: it requires clay, which is poured with water and soaked for at least a day. Then the mixture is passed through a sieve and stirred until the consistency of "clay milk" and only then the required amount of sand is added (read also: "").

A do-it-yourself stove will be a solid and reliable design, it will last for more than a dozen years if the solution is done correctly. In the event that the building materials turn out to be of poor quality, and the brickwork was performed without observing the technology, the heat unit will quickly fail and may even collapse.

Features of the oven masonry process

Before making a stove with your own hands, you should make a foundation for it in advance. Usually bricklaying begins one month after the foundation is created. It is necessary to withstand a certain time so that the stove turns out to be efficient and of high quality, and the heating structure lasts a long time, without major repairs and alterations, while maintaining functionality and high performance.

Work on laying a brick oven is carried out in several stages:

First of all, lay out the ash chamber and the bottom of the first bell with a roll-up. Usually, a clay-sand mixture with high viscosity and strength is used for masonry.
The doors are mounted in brickwork, and they are fastened using galvanized wire.
A grate is installed over the ash pan. Then they proceed to the installation of the firebox, which is lined with fireclay bricks from the inside, placing it on the edge. In the manufacture of the solution, sand and chamotte clay are used. The furnace door is secured with wire and a steel plate with a thickness of 2.5 millimeters. Read also: "".
On the 12th row of brickwork, close the combustion chamber and then, using a level, mount a cast-iron stove with burners. In the left part of the structure, the first hood and the channel intended for the summer run are laid.
After completing the installation of the plate, lay out the walls of the cooking chamber. On the left side, the erection of the lower cap is continued.
In the cooking chamber in the inner row, a summer valve is installed, which is necessary for kindling the furnaces.
In the 20th row, the first of the hoods and the cooking chamber are covered. In solid brickwork, it is necessary to leave openings for an air vent for the brewing compartment, a summer run and a lifting channel. For this, the bricks are supported on steel corners in order to strengthen the heating structure and thereby increase its reliability.
At the cooking chamber, the portal should be closed with hinged fireplace doors. A good solution would be to provide the doors with inserts made of heat-resistant glass. If they are available, it becomes possible to exercise control over the combustion process and at the same time observe how the tongues of flame look. Read also: "".
After overlapping the cooking chamber and the lower bell, the upper bell is laid out with the help of two brick rows. Cleaning doors are installed in convenient places to help remove soot.
The walls of the hood are erected almost to the top of the wall opening. At the top, the oven is covered with two brick rows. For additional thermal insulation, the hole between the top of the unit and the overhanging lintel must be filled with mineral wool.
If a stove is made with your own hands, a decorative belt is placed along its upper perimeter and the installation of a pipe that removes flue gases begins. A brick chimney is considered the ideal solution, since over time, metal and asbestos pipes often burn out. Read also: "".

An originally made stove with your own hands is shown in the video:

Cooking ovens include cookers of various designs. They come in various sizes and are only used for cooking. Connect the kitchen ovens to the root or top pipes.

Brick cookers

By their design, cookers can be divided into simple, medium and complex.

A simple kitchen stove has a firebox and a blower door, a grate and a smoke damper. It is the simplest of all household stoves.

Kitchen stoves of medium complexity, in addition to the above-mentioned stove appliances, have an oven, and complex ones also have a hot water box. Ovens are made of black steel with a thickness of at least 1 mm, and hot water boxes are made of galvanized steel. The casing of the hot water box is made of black steel with a thickness of at least 1 mm. The thicker the steel, the more durable the devices.

Stove with double-burner hob and oven

In a simple kitchen stove, hot flue gases from the firebox are directed under the cast-iron stove, and then they are discharged through the hole under the chimney into the chimney.

In the rest of the stoves, hot flue gases are directed under the cast-iron stove and then, going down, they heat the walls of the oven or one wall of the hot water box, and then are diverted into the pipe, while heating the lower wall of the oven, the lower and other walls of the hot water box.

The above stoves do not have a cooking chamber, therefore, during cooking, steam and smell are emitted into the room, which negatively affects the microclimate of the room. In this article, drawings of sections and orders of an improved kitchen stove are given, in which a cooking chamber is provided, connected to a pipe by means of a ventilation duct blocked by a ventilation valve.

Simple kitchen stove

A simple kitchen stove has dimensions, mm: 1160x510x630 (without a foundation, i.e. without two rows of brickwork on the floor).

The following materials are required for laying a cooker:

red brick - 120 pcs.;
red clay - 50 kg;
sand - 40 kg;
grate - 28 × 25 cm;
furnace door - 25 × 21 cm;
blower door - 25 × 14 cm;
cast iron stove for two burners - 70 × 40 cm;
strapping the slab (corner 30x30x4 mm) -3.5 m;
roofing steel sheet under the slab - 1160 × 510 mm;
building felt - 1 kg;

One stove-maker can fold a simple kitchen stove within 3 hours (not counting the laying of the chimney), in addition, it takes 1.5 hours to bring the material and prepare the clay-sand mortar. calculating half an hour per 1 m of pipe laying (when laying a pipe in a quarter of a brick).

The heat transfer of a simple stove with two cooking times is about 0.7-0.8 kW (660-700 kcal / h).

The figure below shows the vertical and horizontal sections of a simple cooker. Further, drawings of the masonry will be given in rows (orders). From the sections and drawings of the masonry along the rows, it can be seen that laying a simple kitchen stove is not difficult.

Sections of a simple kitchen stove: a - facade; b - section A-A (longitudinal vertical section of the furnace); c - section B-B (transverse vertical section). Designations: 1- firebox; 2 - ash pan; 3 - grate; 4 - smoke valve; 5 - cast iron plate (flooring).

Before you start laying a simple kitchen stove, you should purchase the necessary stove appliances.

Having prepared a clay-sand mortar, they begin laying a simple kitchen stove. If the slab is placed on a foundation, then it is leveled up. When laying the slab on a wooden floor, it is necessary to cut a sheet of roofing steel to the size of the slab. Put a layer of sheet asbestos on the floor, and in its absence - two layers of building felt, well soaked in a clay-sand mortar, cover everything with a sheet of roofing steel and nail it to the floor. Then a platform is made of a whole brick in two rows of masonry on a clay-sand mortar. After that, they start laying the slabs from the first row strictly in order.

First row put, observing the rules for dressing seams from selected whole bricks, as indicated in the figure below. The completed masonry is checked for squareness.

The first row of a simple kitchen oven

During masonry second row arrange a blower, install a blower door, which is attached to the masonry using an oven wire. The front blower door can be temporarily supported with bricks, which are stacked on the floor in front of the blower door. The bottom of the ash pan is 380 × 250 mm.

The second row of the kitchen stove

Third row similar to the previous one, but the seams should be well tied.

Third row

Fourth row overlaps the blower door, while leaving only the opening of the ash pan with dimensions of 250 × 250 mm, on which the grate is laid. If possible, laying from the fourth row should preferably be made of refractory bricks, as shown in the figure below.

Fourth row masonry. Shaded bricks are refractory. The arrows indicate the directions of movement of hot flue gases in the heating furnace.

Fifth row forms a 510 × 250 mm firebox under the firebox. The brick adjacent to the back of the grate is chipped off to form an inclined plane along which the fuel will roll onto the grate (see section BB along A-A). When laying this row, you need to install the furnace door, having previously attached the roofing steel legs to it with rivets.

Masonry of the fifth row of the furnace

Sixth row lay in the same way as the previous one, but the seams should be bandaged.

Masonry of the sixth row of the furnace

Seventh row put according to the figure below. This next to leave a chimney under the stove, connecting the firebox with the chimney.

Seventh row of oven

Eighth row performed strictly horizontally, this row overlaps the furnace door. On the laid out eighth row, a cast-iron plate is laid using a thin layer of clay-sand mortar. Prefabricated cast iron slabs have protrusions, or stiffening ribs, on the underside, which retreat 15 mm from the edges of the slabs.

Eighth oven row

The internal dimensions of the masonry of the eighth row should be such that the slab with its ribs freely goes there and has a gap on all sides of at least 5 mm, designed to expand the metal when it is heated. If you do not observe this, then the cast-iron plate, expanding, will destroy the stove masonry. To make the masonry strong, an angle steel strapping is laid on the eighth row. It is advisable to cover the frame with a fireproof varnish, which protects the steel from rust.

After laying ninth row a smoke damper is installed using a thin layer of clay-sand mortar. This row is the final one, followed by the laying of the chimney.

The final row of a simple kitchen oven

The stove works as follows. Flue gases from the firebox fall under the cast-iron stove, then through the hole under the chimney through the smoke damper they are discharged into the chimney.
There is no cleaning hole in the stove, since you can clean the chimney through the hole under the chimney, where you can easily stick your hand through the burner of the cast-iron stove.

Example of laying a hob

Firstly, in the kitchen stove, the fire door is installed at the same level as the grate. In the stove, the flue gases constantly maintain a high temperature in the chimney, as a result of which it is not necessary to stack thick fuel on the grate. Secondly, with such an installation of the combustion door, the distance from the grate to the cast iron plate will be only 280 mm, which makes it possible to quickly cook food even with low fuel consumption.

After finishing laying the furnace, it must be dried by opening the furnace and blower doors and the valve in the pipe.

The longer the oven dries, the stronger the masonry will be. The stove can be dried with small test fireboxes, but after the trial fireboxes, the valve in the pipe and the blower door must be left open.

After complete drying, the kitchen stove is plastered with a clay-sand mortar, followed by whitewashing.

Exterior decoration is best done as follows: after laying the eighth row and installing the cast-iron plate, as well as before installing the corner steel strapping, the kitchen stove is walled up from all sides in a roofing steel case (galvanized steel can be used). Pre-cut the corresponding holes according to the dimensions of the furnace and blower doors. The case at the floor is fixed with a plinth, which is nailed around the slab. The outer surface of the case is cleaned and coated with an oven varnish that can withstand high temperatures.

In front of the furnace door, a pre-furnace sheet is nailed to the floor with nails 50 mm apart from one another. If the plinth was nailed earlier, then the pre-furnace sheet must be folded onto the plinth.

Stove with oven

A stove with an oven has dimensions, mm: 1290x640x560 (without a foundation, i.e. without two rows of brickwork on the floor).
The following materials are required for laying a stove with an oven:

red brick - 140 pcs.;
red clay - 60 kg;
sand - 50 kg;
grate - 26 × 25 cm;
furnace door - 25 × 21 cm;
blower door - 14 × 25 cm;
cleaning doors 130 × 140 mm - 2 pcs .;
cast iron plate of five composite plates measuring 53 × 18 cm with two burners;
smoke valve - 130 × 130 mm;
oven - 45x31x28 cm;
strapping the slab (corner 30x30x4 mm) - 4 m;
pre-furnace sheet made of roofing steel - 500 × 700 mm;
roofing steel sheet under the slab - 1290 × 640 mm;
building felt - 1.2 kg;
metal box for collecting ash in the ash pan - 350x230x100 mm.

One stove-maker can fold this stove for 3-4 hours, in addition, it takes about 2 hours to bring the material and prepare the clay-sand mortar. The heat transfer of the stove with two cooking times is about 0.8 kW (770 kcal / h). The figure below shows a general view, longitudinal and cross sections of a stove with an oven. Below are the pictures-orders of each row. Laying a stove with an oven is also not difficult and is similar to laying a simple stove, but here you have to install an oven and clean doors.

Kitchen stove with oven: a - general view; b - sections A-A, B-B (vertical sections), B-C, G-G (horizontal sections). Designations: 1 - ash pan; 2 - grate; 3 - firebox; 4 - cast iron plate; 5 - oven; 6 - smoke valve; 7 - furnace door; 8 - blower door; 9 - cleaning holes.

When laying a slab on an independent foundation, before starting work, level its top with a layer of clay-sand mortar.

When installing the slab on the floor, before starting the laying of the first row, it is necessary to carry out the same work as when laying a simple kitchen stove.

Masonry first row made from selected whole bricks, strictly adhering to the rules for bandaging the seams. The length of the stove must correspond to the length of five bricks, the width to the length of 2.5 bricks. Using a cord, check the equality of the diagonals.

Laying the first row of a cooker with an oven

Second row spread, strictly following the order. Here, an ash pan with a size of 380 × 250 mm is left, a blower door is installed and fixed, clean holes are left on the back wall (the width of the holes should be equal to the width of the brick, i.e. 12 cm). If possible, clean-out doors with a size of 130 × 140 mm are installed. At the clearing hole extreme from the ash pan, a brick is laid on the edge, as shown in the order of the masonry. For better fixing of the oven, half a brick is placed on the edge in the middle of the installation site.

Laying the second row of the slab

Third row similar to the previous one, only the rule of suture dressing should be observed.

Laying of the third row of the slab

Fourth row covers the blower and cleaning doors. After the end of the masonry of the fourth row, an oven is installed on a thin layer of clay-sand mortar in a pre-marked place. After that, the grate is installed. With the same brick installed on the edge, they block the chimney into the chimney.

Laying of the fourth row of a plate with an oven

During masonry fifth row the furnace door is installed and fastened, the brick is cut off by the grate before installation so that the fuel gradually rolls onto the grate during combustion.

Laying of the fifth row of the slab

Sixth row similar to the fifth.

Laying of the sixth row of the slab

Seventh row lay out in order. The formed channel of the chimney from the front side is laid with the help of three bricks, as a result of which the internal size of the formed channel under the chimney will be 130 × 130 mm. In the image of this row, a steam pipe with a diameter of 10 mm and a length of 160 mm is visible next to the oven, which connects the oven to the riser. This pipe is designed to remove steam and odor.

Laying the seventh row of the stove with an oven. The arrows indicate the directions of movement of hot flue gases in the heating furnace.

Eighth row perform strictly horizontally in level. The oven and the firebox door are covered with this row. The upper wall of the oven is coated with a layer of clay mortar up to 10
15 mm, which will protect the oven from fast burning.

Laying of the eighth row of a brick oven (before installing the cast iron plate)

In this case, it is necessary that the distance between the top of the clay mixture and the cast iron plate is at least 70 mm. After that, a cast-iron plate and a lining of angle steel are installed on a thin layer of clay-sand mortar.

Eighth row of brick oven (after installing the cast iron plate)

After laying ninth row only the masonry of the vertical channel remains. The ninth row is laid according to the image below.

The ninth row of the oven

After laying tenth row install a smoke damper.

The tenth row of the oven

Masonry eleventh row start the chimney. Further laying of the pipe is not difficult.

The final row of the stove (the laying of the chimney is not taken into account)

A stove with an oven works like this. From the firebox, flue gases are directed under the cast-iron stove, from where they, heating the oven from the back on both sides, are lowered under the oven and directed to the hole under the chimney. Rising along the vertical channel, they enter the chimney through the smoke damper and are discharged into the atmosphere.

Cooking stove with oven and hot water box

For the masonry of a cooker with oven and hot water box measuring 1290 × 640 mm, the same materials are required as for the previous cooker. Additionally, you should purchase a water-heating box with a size of 510x280x120 mm.

The figure below shows a general view, a horizontal section along A-A and a vertical section along B-B of the slab.

Kitchen stove with oven and hot water box: a - general view; b - sections. Definitions: 1 - firebox; 2 - cast iron plate; 3 - oven; 4 - hot water box; 5 - smoke valve; 6 - ash pan; 7 - corner steel strapping

The stove with oven and hot water box is placed in the same order as the stove with oven. The only difference is that after laying the third row, instead of a partition with a brick on the edge between the oven and the vertical channel, a hot water box is installed in a case. The height of the hot water box must correspond to the height of four rows of brickwork on the floor. The rest of the masonry is completely similar to the masonry of a kitchen stove with an oven.

Improved cooker with oven and hot water box

In the kitchen stoves in the countryside, they not only prepare food for people, but also cook fodder for livestock, and boil the laundry during washing. During the heating, a lot of steam enters the room and foreign unpleasant odors are emitted. Because of this, the humidity in the room rises, which negatively affects its microclimate. Therefore, in order to remove foreign smell and steam in kitchen stoves, it is advisable to provide a cooking chamber, which is connected to the chimney using a ventilation duct. A ventilation damper must be installed in the ventilation duct.

Installing a double-leaf door in the cooking chamber allows you to keep food hot in it for a long time and thus prevent it from souring.

Cooking chamber in a brick oven

The firebox and the ash pan (ash pan) are closed from the outside with appropriate doors. The upper surface of the oven is protected from hot gases with a layer of clay mortar 10-12 cm thick. It is advisable to lay the stove from the fourth to the ninth row of refractory bricks (especially the firebox).

An example of overlapping an ash pan

It is advisable to make a stove up to the ninth row of masonry from sheet steel, and to increase its strength, after installing the frame on a clay-sand mortar, install an angle steel strapping. Since the mass of such a slab will be more than one ton, it is installed on an independent foundation.

If it is impossible to build an independent foundation, the floor must be reinforced with additional beams, which are mounted on brick posts. Instead of brick pillars, you can use pillars made of hard logs, reinforced concrete pillars, iron pipes with a cross section of at least 180-200 mm.

The improved design cooker has a "forward" slide valve. During prolonged heating of the stove, water evaporation in the hot water box is possible. To stop this, add some cold water to it and open the “forward” valve. In this case, the flue gases from under the cast-iron stove do not go down, but immediately go into the chimney. As a result, the hot water box stops warming up, the evaporation of water in it stops.

Example of a "forward" stroke valve

For the convenience of cleaning the ash pan from ash, a special box made of roofing steel with a size of 350x230x100 mm is installed in it. This prevents contamination of the room when cleaning the ash pan from ash.

A stove of this design has the following advantages over the previous stove with an oven and hot water box:

during cooking, steam and foreign odors do not enter the room, which are removed into the atmosphere through the ventilation hole;
food cooked on the stove in the cooking chamber remains hot for a long time and does not sour during the day;
with the help of the “forward” valve, it is possible to cook food without heating the hot water box and thus preventing further evaporation of water in it.

The figure below shows a general view of the stove from the front, here are also drawings of the cuts of the stove in the most difficult places. Masonry drawings in rows will be further, and they give an exhaustive idea of the internal structure of the slab. Using the orders and drawings in rows, you can fold the stove yourself, without the help of a stove-maker.

Kitchen stove with oven and hot water box of improved design: a - facade; b - sections A-A, B-B, c - sections B-C, G-G, D-D, E-E. Definitions: 1 - blower door; 2 - furnace door; 3 - oven; 4 - the door of the cooking chamber; 5 - smoke valve; 6 - ventilation valve; 7 - gate valve of "direct" stroke; 8 - hot water box; 9 - cleaning holes; 10 - cast iron plate.

A cooker with an oven and a hot water box of improved design has dimensions, mm: 1290x640x1330.

The following materials are required for masonry:

red brick - 250 pcs.;
refractory bricks - 80 pcs.;
red clay - 180 kg;
sand - 90 kg;
furnace door - 250 × 210 mm;
blower door - 250 × 140 mm;
grate grate - 280 × 250 mm;
oven with a size of 250x280x450 mm;
cast iron stove with two burners - 700 × 400 mm;
hot water box - 250x140x510 mm;
pre-furnace sheet - 500 × 700 mm;
strip steel with dimensions 400x250x6 mm;
door to the cooking chamber - 750x350x5 mm;
angular steel for strapping a plate with a size of 30x30x3 mm - 4.1 m;
strip steel for overlapping the cooking chamber with dimensions 450x45x4 mm - 4 pcs.

The stove can be folded by one stove-maker within 18-20 hours; an additional 6 hours are required to prepare the mortar and material.

To fold the stove with the firebox on the left side, you need to consider the drawings with the help of a mirror placed on the edge in the drawing.

The stove is laid out as follows. Masonry first row produced on a foundation erected to floor level. The first row defines the basic dimensions of the slab. The length of the slab is equal to the length of the masonry of five bricks on a clay-sand mortar, and the width is equal to the length of 2.5 bricks.

First row of improved range cooker with oven and hot water box

During masonry second row in front, two cleaning doors and a blower door are installed. They are attached to the masonry with an oven wire.

Masonry of the second row of the oven; 1 - blower door, 9 - cleaning holes.

Masonry third row produced according to the order, it is similar to the previous row. After laying the third row, a hot water box is installed.

Masonry of the third row of the oven; 11 - steel sheet 3 mm thick.

Toplivnik fourth row they are laid out of refractory bricks, in its absence, sorted first-class red bricks are used. The fourth row overlaps the cleaning holes and the blower door, forming the beginning of the hearth. After laying the fourth row, a grate and an oven are installed.

Masonry of the fourth row of the furnace

Masonry fifth row is not difficult. The brick adjacent to the back of the grate is half cut to form an inclined plane.

Masonry of the fifth row of the furnace; 3 - oven.

Before laying sixth row prepare the furnace door, for which strip steel is riveted from above and below, which should be 10 cm longer than the furnace door in both directions. For greater strength, the ends of the strip steel are screwed with oven wire, the ends of which are embedded in the masonry. The door is installed on a clay-sand solution, having previously wrapped the frame of the combustion door with asbestos fiber.

Sixth row masonry

Masonry seventh row fix the base of the furnace door.

Seventh row masonry

Eighth row covers the hot water box.

Eighth row masonry

Ninth row covers the fire door and oven. The top of the oven is protected from burning with a layer of clay mortar 10-12 mm thick. It is advisable to lay this row entirely of refractory bricks.

Masonry of the ninth row

After the end of the masonry of the ninth row, a cast-iron stove is installed above the firebox on a clay-sand mortar. The large burner of the stove is placed above the firebox. Next to the main plate, an additional plate is placed, made of steel sheet with a size of 400x200x6 mm. After that, the angle steel is laid, to which the lower frame of the cooking chamber door is welded. For strength, it is advisable to tie angle steel through special holes in it with oven wire, which is attached to the masonry.

Installing a cast iron plate on the ninth row; 12 - steel sheet 6 mm thick; 13 - angle steel.

Tenth row put from ordinary red brick. On the right side, a window is left for cleaning the channel of the "forward" stroke. Some of the bricks that cover the slab are cut off with a pick before laying, so that in the event of a slab breakage, it can be easily replaced.

Tenth row masonry

Masonry eleventh row does not present difficulties, you only need to follow the rules for bandaging the seams.

Eleventh oven row

Twelfth row overlaps the cleaning window.

The twelfth row of the oven

After laying Tthe thirteenth row on the clay-sand solution, a "straight" stroke valve is installed.

The thirteenth row of the oven; 6 - ventilation valve.

Masonry fourteenth row must correspond to the level of the upper door frame to the cooking chamber. Next to the upper door frame, 45x45x800 mm angle steel is installed to the cooking chamber.

Fourteenth row of the oven

Fifteenth row closes the door to the cooking chamber.

Fifteenth row of the oven

Sixteenth row closes the channel of "direct" travel.

Masonry of the sixteenth row of the kitchen stove

Masonry seventeenth row provides a ventilation duct to remove odor and steam from the cooking chamber.

Masonry of the seventeenth row of the kitchen stove

After the end of the clutch eighteenth row above the cooking chamber, four pieces of strip steel 4x45x500 mm in size are installed to overlap the cooking chamber.

Masonry of the eighteenth row of the kitchen stove

Nineteenth row overlaps the cooking chamber. After the end of the masonry of this row, a ventilation valve is installed.

Masonry of the nineteenth row of the kitchen stove; 6 - ventilation valve.

Masonry twentieth and twenty-first rows are not difficult, only the seams should be well tied.

Masonry of the twentieth row of the kitchen stove

Masonry of the twenty-first row

Masonry twentysecond row reduces the size of the chimney, it will be 130 × 130 mm.

Masonry of the twenty-second row

Twenty-third and twenty-fourth ranks put according to the order.

Twenty-third row of the oven

Twenty-fourth row

After laying twenty fifth a number of a smoke damper is installed, which is also an adjustment valve.

Masonry of the twenty-fifth row of the stove; 5 - smoke damper.

Masonry twenty sixth row start the chimney. Chimney laying is not difficult.

Laying of the final row (excluding the chimney)

After finishing the laying of the furnace, before plastering it, the chimneys are cleaned from the fallen residues of mortar and crushed stone through the cleaning holes. The holes for cleaning are then laid with halves of bricks in a clay-sand mortar.

When installing cleaning doors, they are tightly closed, leaks are covered with clay-sand mortar.

After that, the stove can be dried in two ways: by opening the furnace and blower doors and valves, or by small test furnaces. After complete drying, the slab is plastered with a clay-sand mortar, and after drying the plaster, a two-fold whitewashing is performed. In front of the furnace door, a pre-furnace sheet is nailed to the floor.

Do-it-yourself brick cooking stove: step-by-step instructions for masonry + photo

The comfort of a country house built far from gas supply networks is unthinkable without a stove. In the cold season, it gives us pleasant warmth, ridding the air of dampness.

The market today offers buyers all kinds of designs of metal "burzhuikas". Despite this, many summer residents prefer the classic version - a brick-built heating stove. Its advantages are obvious: due to its high weight, it accumulates a lot of heat and gives it away for a long time, warming up the room well.

The service life of a brick structure significantly exceeds the service life of a metal one. The minimum cost of materials and ease of arrangement attract the attention of home craftsmen to a simple stove for giving.

Our article will help you test yourself as a stove-maker. In it, we will consider several options for simple wood-burning stoves and give practical recommendations for laying them.

You will be convinced that there is nothing complicated in the drawings of these structures. Having learned to read "orders" - brick layout schemes, you can build a full-fledged heat generating device with your own hands.

How to fold the simplest brick oven?

First you need to decide what you want to get from the future stove. If you only need to heat the rooms, and you use bottled gas or electricity for cooking, then choose the option without a stove and an oven. Anyone who loves soft healing warmth chooses the option with a stove bench.

For regular cooking of large quantities of food and pet food, a simple oven with a hob will do just fine.

We'll look at three examples of ovens with a step-by-step guide to laying them:

Simple straight-through;
With a hob;
Heating.

Let's say right away that one cannot expect high heat transfer from a simple design, devoid of gas revolutions. For this reason, such stoves are installed in garages and other small rooms with an area of no more than 16 m2.

We will consider this option so that beginners get their first simple lesson in practical masonry.

Direct-flow heating structure is designed to heat a small room

A powerful foundation is not needed for such a stove. Having poured large crushed stone with a layer of 15-20 cm, filling it with cement mortar and leveling the surface in level, in a couple of days you can start laying.

The dimensions of the furnace in the plan: width 2 bricks (51 cm), depth 2.5 bricks (64 cm). Since there is no blowing chamber in it, holes for air intake are drilled directly in the furnace door.

The sixth row covers the combustion chamber door. The top view helps to better understand the way the bricks are laid out.

The orders of this design are simple. The main condition during work is to observe the dressing of the seams so that the upper brick covers the seam between the two lower ones.

On the eighth row, the firebox is narrowed, using halves and "three-quarters" for this - ¾ of a whole brick. The exit from the firebox is thus obtained with a section of 1 brick (125x250 mm).

The next row (ninth) is laid out in the same way as the seventh, using a whole brick.

After that, the tier of bricks is placed on the edge flush with the inner edge of the lower row. The new tier is laid flat, using two whole bricks and four "three-quarters". In this way, the smoke channel is again narrowed in order to retain gases and increase heat transfer.

On the next tier, stones are placed on the edge. A brick is placed in the middle of the smoke channel. In this way, the furnace is raised five more rows (one tier per edge and a brick in the middle, the other tier flat).

The other four tiers are laid flat. With the last two rows of masonry, the smoke channel is narrowed to a size of 12x12 cm (half a brick). At this level, a smoke damper is placed in the furnace. A steel pipe is inserted into it from above.

Oven with hob

In the simplest version, such a design has small dimensions (width 2, and depth 3 bricks - 78x53 cm). Nevertheless, even in such a limited area, a single-burner stove can be placed.

Work gets better when you have everything you need at hand.

Therefore, buy the following materials and accessories in advance:

Solid red brick - 107 pcs;
Blowing door - 1 piece;
Grizzly grate - 1 piece;
One-burner cast-iron stove - 1 piece;
Furnace door - 1 piece;
Pipe gate valve - 1 pc.

Refractory bricks are not needed for a wood-burning stove. Buying it is a waste of money. But red should be chosen carefully, rejecting cracked and uneven.

Solution preparation

A masonry mixture is made by mixing four parts of clay with one part of water and adding eight parts of sifted sand to them. The normal consistency is determined simply: the mortar easily slides off the trowel without leaving streaks on it. When laying, it should not flow out of the seams.

The volume of the mortar is determined based on the number of bricks. With an optimal seam thickness (3-5 mm), one bucket is enough for 50 pieces.

Having prepared the masonry mixture, you can start laying the base. Its width is made 10 cm more than the width of the oven. The height of the foundation is selected so that the bottom of the first row of bricks is at floor level.

An approximate prototype of the stove

If the underground is deep enough (50-60 cm), then there is no need to dig a hole under the foundation. It is enough to make the formwork on the ground with a plan size of 76 x (51 + 10cm). Two layers of roofing material are laid on its bottom to protect it from moisture. Having laid the concrete, he is given a week to gain strength, after which they start laying.

The dimensions of the oven we are considering with a hob are 3 x 1.5 bricks (76x39 cm).

Master's advice: lay out each new tier of brick without mortar (dry). After adjusting the bricks to size, you can start laying.

The first row is placed on a layer of clay mortar (4-5 mm). Aligning the base with a level, lay out the second, leaving room for the blower door.

Before installing the door, you need to screw a soft wire to it and lay its ends into the seams for better fixation.

In the frame of the cast-iron door there are four holes for the wire, which serves to fix it in the masonry

To compensate for the thermal expansion of the metal, a gap is left between the door and the brick. Before installation, its frame is wrapped with a wet asbestos cord.

The masonry of the third row is carried out, overlapping the seams of the second. At this level, a grate is installed in the firebox.

Ordering scheme from 1 to 8 rows

The fourth row is placed on the edge, observing the dressing of the seams, and the walls of the combustion chamber are formed. Behind it there will be the first and only smoke circulation (see section А-А in the scheme №2). To clean its bottom, a so-called knockout brick is placed in the rear wall without mortar, periodically removed to remove ash. Inside the chimney, two supports are made of pieces of brick to support the internal partition.

The stones of the fifth row are placed flat, leaving room for the furnace door. At the rear of the stove, in order, we see the walls of two smoke channels. During work, their surface must be thoroughly cleaned with a wet cloth from clay protruding from the seams. This is an important prerequisite for good traction.

Useful advice! Focusing on the order drawings, do not forget to look at the two cuts of the stove. They will help you to better imagine its design and not make mistakes when laying out bricks.

Ordering scheme from 9 to 11 rows

Raising it into the masonry up to the eighth row, they block the fire door, laying a wire in the seams that fixes its frame. At the same level, a brick with a beveled end - a smoke tooth - is placed in the back of the fuel chamber. It improves heat output by preventing flue gases from escaping quickly into the chimney.

Having finished the ninth row, an asbestos cord is laid on it in a clay solution. It is necessary for sealing the joints of the cast iron plate and brick. On the tenth row, the firebox is covered with a hob.

On the eleventh, a smoke damper is installed in the pipe. It is also compacted along the contour with an asbestos cord dipped in clay.

12 and 13 row - the formation of the pipe walls. After their completion, a light sheet metal pipe is placed on the furnace, which is brought out to the roof.

Heating stove

And now let's see how to fold a brick oven with our own hands, designed to heat a small country house.

Approximate prototypes of the considered variant of a heating stove for a country house

Its dimensions:

width - 2 bricks (51 cm);
depth - 3.5 bricks (90 cm);
height - 2 meters 38 cm.

For construction, the following materials and accessories will be required:

Red solid brick - 390 pcs;
Clay - 9 buckets;
Sand - 18 buckets;
Grizzly grate (25x40 cm) - 1 piece;
Furnace door (20x30 cm) - 1 piece;
Blowing door (14x20 cm) - 1pc;
Cleanout door (14x20 cm) - 1pc;
Gate valve -1 pcs;
Pre-furnace steel sheet (50x70 cm) - 1 piece;
Roofing material for waterproofing (100x60 cm) - 1 pc.

Sequence of work

The first row is the base of the oven. It should be laid out especially carefully, checking horizontality with a level.

The corners are the hardest part for beginners. In order for them to be even, we recommend that you immediately install four template posts at the edges of the masonry. They can be made from planed boards by knocking them down in pairs at right angles.

By installing such a "formwork" from floor to ceiling, you can easily deduce the ideal corners.

Homemade template for laying corners

On the second row, from the end of the furnace, two bricks are laid with a beveled edge going into the ash chamber. The laying of the third row begins with the installation of a blower door, which is fixed with wire in the seams of the side bricks.

Ordering diagram from 1 to 10 and cross-sections of the heating furnace

4 and 5 rows continue to form the walls of the ash chamber. The sixth row begins to lay the walls of the fuel chamber and put a grate in it.

At the level of the 7th and 8th rows, a firebox door is mounted. Beveled bricks are placed in the back of the chamber to improve traction. The firebox door is blocked with the ninth row.

From 10 to 16 rows, the laying of the fuel chamber and the vertical flue duct is being carried out. On the seventeenth, a cleaning door is placed in the oven.

Row 18-30 form smoke circulation channels. They need to be laid out as evenly as possible, rubbing the inner walls with a wet rag.

31-32 rows form a vault overlapping the oven.

33 and 34 form a chimney.

After finishing the laying, the oven is left for a week with open doors and a pipe to dry. After that, a test furnace is made, burning small portions of chips, twigs or straw.

In late autumn and early spring, there is not enough comfort at the dacha - it becomes damp and cool in the house. The problem can be solved with an electric heater, but in a suburban home it is better to give preference to a traditional wood-burning hearth. The heat from a stove or fireplace warms not only the body, but also the soul, filling the room with a special aroma and comfort. To build a mini-oven with your own hands, you do not need large costs - the cost of a home-made unit will cost much less than finished devices.

Heating and cooking country stove: where to start and how to build

Small furnaces, despite their small dimensions, are installed on a solid foundation. Only in some cases can you get by with reinforcing the floor. Experienced craftsmen work without diagrams and drawings, and beginners are advised to take the order of reputable stove-makers as a basis.

Construction diagram and materials

Ideal for a small house, this square mini brick oven is simple, compact and efficient. The design includes a low chimney with a channel section of 13 * 13 cm. The stove has an oven that allows you to cook and warm up dishes. The cabinet is made of sheet steel, but if desired, it can be replaced with a ready-made oven of suitable dimensions.

The appearance and structure of the furnace

A fireproof mortar is required for laying a mini-oven on wood. You can make it yourself from clay, but it will take more time, and the result will depend on the quality of the clay and the correct determination of its fat content. It is much easier to trust the manufacturers and purchase a ready-made heat-resistant mixture in the store - in this case, the product will remain to be diluted with clean water in the proportions indicated on the package.

The dimensions of the compact structure are 51 * 51 cm, the height of the hearth is 175 cm. To strengthen the firebox, fireclay bricks must be taken - it is not afraid of direct contact with the flame and does not crack. The walls of a mini-oven for a country house are laid out with red brick.

Consumption of materials:

ceramic bricks - 170 pieces;
refractory masonry mortar - 35–40 liters;
door for the firebox measuring 23 * 25 cm;
blower door (13 * 14 cm);
cleaning door (13 * 9 cm);
grate (25 * 18 cm);
latch (12 * 34 cm);
steel sheet;
steel wire - about 2.5 m;
roofing material for waterproofing.

Masonry diagram and oven drawing

The first row, as always, is laid out without mortar. On the second row, a blower door is mounted using steel wire for fastening, and an ash pan is laid. On the fourth row, a grate is laid, providing a gap of about 4 mm between the grate and the masonry.

Laying the fifth row begins with the installation of a combustion door. The door frame is wrapped with an asbestos cord, and the door is walled up in the masonry using steel wire. This is followed according to the scheme: an oven, a chimney, a pipe are formed.

Baby stove with stove and oven

Another mini-oven for a summer residence has dimensions at the base of only 51 * 64 cm, while the depth of the firebox is 50 cm. The model is perfect for a country house or a summer kitchen. Firewood, coal, peat, briquettes can be used as fuel.

Design features and materials

Despite its small dimensions, the compact stove is quite functional and is equipped with a hob and oven, which allows it to be used not only for heating the room, but also for household needs. According to the reviews of those who have already built this assistant at their dacha, the kettle on the stove boils in just minutes.

The compactness was preserved thanks to the vertical arrangement of all elements. The chimney has a cross section of one brick. The exhaust gases pass through the channels located behind the cooking chamber, then enter the horizontal chimney, bypass the oven on both sides and go into the chimney.

Diagram of a mini-oven for a country house or summer kitchen

For construction you will need materials:

red brick - 220 pieces;
clay masonry mortar or ready-made - about 50 liters;
grate;
steel sheet (pre-furnace) with a size of 50 * 70 cm;
steel strip 4 mm thick with parameters 350 * 25 cm;
slate sheet 51 * 30 cm;
gate valve - 2 pieces;
firebox door;
3 cleaning doors;
blower door;
oven (32 * 38 * 42 cm);
stove (38 * 35 cm) with one burner.

Masonry order

The first row of a brick mini-oven is laid without mortar. After the second row, a blower door is installed, the next row is placed and the firebox begins to form. The grate is laid without mortar. The sequential diagram clearly shows where and how the doors, stove, oven and latches should be installed.

To protect the ceramic bricks from fire, a lining is carried out - fireclay refractory bricks are laid in a separate row. It is important to remember that different types of bricks cannot be tied together - they have different expansion temperatures. Failure to follow this rule leads to cracks.

Option for novice stove makers: a stove with a cast iron firebox

A brick mini-oven can be built with your own hands on the basis of a finished cast-iron firebox. Cast iron fireboxes are durable - they do not crack or burn out. This option is more suitable for beginners, since all the main elements are already provided for in the design. The combined oven heats up quickly and cools down for a long time, due to which the efficiency of the hearth is significantly increased. If you wish, you can choose a fireplace-type hearth with a fire-resistant glass door - such a model will not only warm, but also decorate the room.

Before starting work, prepare a solid and even base. To do this, you can fill in a small concrete podium. The lining of the cast-iron firebox is made in half a brick, leaving an air cushion with a thickness of 1 to 10 cm between the walls and the cladding.In addition, it is necessary to provide small ventilation holes in the lower part of the building - they will provide the outlet of heated air and improve heat transfer.

Example of lining a cast iron firebox

You can start building a mini-oven with your own hands only with firm confidence in your knowledge and skills. Any doubts are a good reason to postpone independent work and entrust the construction to a professional stove-maker.

Video: do-it-yourself masonry of a small summer cottage stove

What is a brick oven in a country house? This is an opportunity to heat the house all winter long without using either gas or electricity. Moreover, the feeling of comfort that comes from the stove is hard to confuse with something. There is nothing better than leaning against its hot wall at the end of the day, enjoying the warmth.

Modern construction technologies allow you to fold the stove so that one good kindling will be enough for you until the morning. In addition, a properly designed structure retains internal heat for 10-12 hours.

If you keep the fire in the stove a little bit, then you can heat it 24 hours a day with minimal expenditure of firewood. In addition, it is not necessary to put firewood in the firebox. You can use special charcoal. But for this, the stove must be folded in a special way. Using refractory stone that can withstand high temperatures.

It is also worth noting that the ovens can have many modifications. For example, the structure can be folded in such a way that a fireplace will also be attached to the stove. It will not take up much space, but it will give even more warmth and comfort to the house. Moreover, one chimney is sufficient for extracting smoke from two furnaces.

Furnace types

The history of the evolution of stove structures goes back many centuries. Unsurprisingly, folding a heat-efficient and reliable stove is an art form. But with proper preparation and diligence, you can do it yourself, here is a good video tutorial:

You can fold the oven using a variety of methods. At the same time, there are a number of parameters that determine the specifics of the future stove:

Purpose.
The temperature to which the walls should be heated.
The time required to heat the walls and the amount of fuel required for this.
Chimney design.
Heat transfer level.
Scheme of the movement of gases in the channels.
Form.
Exterior wall finishing material.
Main material.

Based on all these parameters, you will fold the oven of your dreams. The main thing at the initial stage is to draw up a drawing, with detailed diagrams. In the project, you need to describe in detail all the features of the future design. But before that, you need to decide what kind of stove you need.

It is easiest to fold the heating stove. It performs the main function - it gives warmth to people and the home. Such designs do not carry any additional functionality, but they are reliable and easy to use, for which they have won many sympathy among summer residents.

Naturally, all heating stoves are classified according to heat transfer, the time required for kindling and the degree of heating of the walls. It is on these parameters that you need to rely first of all before folding the stove with your own hands.

If you expect to get a moderately heated stove, you can fold it into one brick. Such ovens heat up slowly and also cool down slowly. The average wall temperature is about 60 degrees.

Heating stoves cannot be called a refinement of architectural thought. But the massive design and uncomplicated shapes create a sense of monumentality. In addition, if you skillfully fold bricks in this stove, it can become an excellent decor element.

Moreover, do not forget about the exterior decoration. After you fold the stove, you can plaster it and put tiles on top. Firstly, it will protect the structure from destruction, and secondly, it will give it a beautiful and aesthetic appearance.

Important ! Before folding a brick heating stove with your own hands, keep in mind that it requires a lot of material.

Typical representatives of the family of heating stoves include such designs as:

"Dutch",
OPT-3,
Triangular oven,
Stove Grum-Grigimailo,
OTP-11
Rectangular heating,
T-shaped.

These ovens are rarely very popular. The fact is that in order to add them, it takes a lot of time and materials, and the functionality turns out to be poor as a result.

Very often, in country houses, the owners decide to lay down the heating and cooking stove. This construction has many advantages over a conventional stove. You can cook food on it without any problems and even comfortably using pine, birch or yew firewood.

Important ! About 90% of orders from stove-makers are for heating and cooking constructions.

The main element of such a stove is the hob, which is made of cast iron. The oven is not built in everywhere, since it takes a lot of skill to fold it. The most advanced designs have the following additional capabilities:

a chamber for baking bread,
stove bench,
niche for drying firewood,
boiler of water heating.

In fact, the number of additional functions depends solely on your capabilities and desires. In fact, a real multifunctional combine can be folded from a simple stove, which will become the main decoration of the kitchen. It's not even worth talking about savings. In addition, food made on such burners is always tastier.

Attention ! The level of efficiency in heating and cooking structures reaches 65%. The heat capacity is about 4 kW.

Such ovens are able to keep warm for a long time. Not only that, they provide powerful traction. The main thing is to fold everything correctly so that the smoke goes directly into the chimney, and not inside the room. The most common designs:

"Swede",
Volkov oven,
"Housekeeper",
"Teplushka"
"Baby".

As you can see, there is a huge variety of heating and cooking stoves, on which you can cook something tasty without problems and with the benefit of the family budget.

Constructions with heating shields are a cheap solution that includes all the functionality necessary for giving. To fold such a structure, you need a minimum of materials and physical labor. 175 bricks are enough for a full-fledged masonry.

Despite the minimal construction costs, the efficiency of the furnace is more than high. This type of stove is very popular among elderly summer residents due to its convenience and low cost.

There are sauna stoves to the side. Usually these are simple stoves, not distinguished by any architectural delights. Their main role is to heat the water in the bath and raise the temperature effectively. Such heating stoves can store heat for two days.

Advice ! The main advantage of the heaters is the ability to fit into any room.

Of course, the classification of furnaces is not limited to these types. In fact, there are a huge number of them, which are classified according to many parameters. The most popular systems have just been described.

Which brick is better to fold the stove from

It is necessary to distinguish between ordinary heat-resistant bricks from oven bricks. Firstly, the latter can withstand temperatures above 1000 degrees. Secondly, if it is rapidly cooled, no cracks form in the structure.

For the construction of stoves, four types of stove bricks are used:

Quartz. This brick is the result of firing sand and clay.
Carbonaceous - consists of graphite.
Fireclay. Best for a fireplace. But one cannot discount its unique thermal insulation qualities. It is able to withstand temperatures up to 1600 degrees. At the same time, it does not crack and does not lose its qualities. The only negative is the yellowish tint.
The main one is used when you need to fold the metallurgical furnace.

In reality, there are no strict rules regarding the choice of materials for masonry during construction. Nevertheless, there are some recommendations that are best followed, the main one of which concerns fireclay bricks. It should be placed in the hottest places, namely in the area of the firebox and chimney. For all other zones, the grade must be at least M-200.

Attention ! Brick of the M-500 brand is considered the best for the stove.

Do-it-yourself oven

Seat selection

To fold a good heating structure, you need to choose the right place. In this case, the following standards should be taken into account:

From the chimney to wooden structures, it must be more than 37 cm.
The minimum distance of the pipe from the ridge is one and a half meters. The height above the ridge is half a meter.
If it is 1.5-3 meters from the pipe to the ridge, it can be placed flush with it.

It is best to fold the stove in the middle of the house. This will ensure even heat distribution and ease of use.

Materials and tools

In addition to brick, you will also need a number of other materials to fold the stove. These include:

clay,
sand,
fittings.

These are the main materials without taking into account the components, but you still need to take care of the vents doors, the blower, the firebox, and so on.

To fold a good stove, you need to knead the right solution. It is best to use special refractory clay, in extreme cases, you can also red. Grains of sand should be no more than 1 mm. The optimal ratio is achieved empirically. This is usually 1 to 1 or 1 to 2. Plus 25 percent water from the total clay.

Metal objects play the main role in the construction of the furnace. To fold a decent structure, you need doors and half-doors, grates, cast iron dampers, latches and views. All these elements, if necessary, can be made by hand, but you will need to purchase iron sheets.

Of course, you won't be able to fold the stove without good tools, you will need:

hammer-pick specially for the oven,
Master OK,
rule-ruler,
wash brush,
roulette,
plumb line
level.

With this simple toolkit, you can fold any oven.

Stove construction process

For the foundation, a pit is dug, backfill and a reinforced frame are made. The resulting structure is poured with concrete. Before folding the stove, make sure you have brick patterns in front of your eyes.

It is very important to keep order when working. Otherwise, you will not be able to fold a high-quality oven. The slightest deviation in the design will lead to the fact that one of the channels will be blocked. The result is more than disastrous. The smoke, instead of going out through the chimney, will go into the room.

The first row is laid along the cord. Each next masonry is checked using a level. The corners are controlled by body kits. After the laying is completed, the stove equipment is installed, for example, the burners. The pipe is led out at the very end. To find out in more detail, how to fold the stove, watch the video below: