Homemade lathe chuck. Homemade universal lathe for metal Homemade chucks for a lathe for wood

The faceplate for a wood lathe is a part in the form of a steel disk with holes for attaching a dimensional workpiece. There are many varieties of faceplates that differ from each other:

material of manufacture;
disk thickness;
size and configuration of mounting holes;
manufacturing method;
heat treatment;
availability of additional accessories.

Turning is often encountered when working with concave workpiece planes, while the workpieces have a large cross section and thickness. It is problematic to fix such materials on other machines, bending makes it difficult to capture the necessary part of the workpiece.

Detail characteristic

A faceplate is a cast metal disc that has a threaded central hole for attaching it to the spindle of a wood lathe. In the faceplate, the workpiece is fastened with metal screws. They pass right through its holes and are securely screwed into the tree.

When selling, a woodworking lathe is equipped with a faceplate with an outer diameter of 100–150 mm. Additionally, specialists can purchase similar products of any size, with a different arrangement of mounting holes and working thickness.

When buying for home use, you must choose a faceplate with a maximum outer diameter. It must correspond to the base size of the bottom of the workpiece being processed.

Prerequisites for using faceplates

When turning wooden products, situations often arise when the turner is obliged to perform jewelry processing of the edges, the accuracy of such manipulations on a standard unit cannot be performed. Especially if the part has large dimensions and uneven corners. Fixing the workpiece on the faceplate is carried out using hooks.

The blank used to turn the bowl must be fixed in the most careful way, otherwise the part will fall off the fixation point and the work will be spoiled.

There is a high probability of serious consequences and accidents if a heavy workpiece falls off the machine spindle. Many professional woodworkers make special fasteners with their own hands.

Universal holders, special cartridges can provide a reliable way to fasten wooden blanks, especially if the machine is made by hand. But the safest for all turners of the highest qualification is considered to be a home-made faceplate made by a master for personal use. The product costs much cheaper than purchased ones, and in terms of reliability, durability, quality it far surpasses them.

The dimensions of the unit itself are small, it can fit in a small workshop or garage of a private house. Forced ventilation is not required in the room where the equipment will be operated. Many masters install the machine between two windows, this allows you to enhance natural ventilation.

Faceplate at home

To assemble the unit at home, the master must know the work schedule, this will simplify the installation of all parts and allow the machine to operate for a long time. The technique is quite simple, but all items require attention from a specialist and dexterity. Step-by-step instructions for making a homemade faceplate:

Take a flat steel sheet 10 mm thick.
Steel, undamaged angle 50×50 mm, M8×30 bolts in the amount of 8 pieces, flat washers and nuts for them.
Carefully consider how a home-made faceplate for a wood lathe will be attached to the spindle of the unit. Buy or carve a threaded sleeve.
Mark the steel plate with a circle of the required diameter. Draw two axes so that they pass through the center and intersect at an angle of 90º.
Using a jigsaw, make a circle along the marked line, carefully grind.
Wet the through grooves along the central axes, not reaching 3 cm to the border of the part, moving away from the center by a few centimeters. It is better to pre-drill slightly larger holes than pre-drilled bolts.
Saw off four identical segments from a solid corner. Drill one shelf of each segment with the same drill as the plate.
In the other two shelves of the corners, cut the M8 thread. Screw the bolts into it.
Weld a threaded bushing for fastening to the shaft to the plate.
Screw the corners through the washers to the faceplate using bolts.
The faceplate for the lathe is made by hand. It is necessary to fix it on the spindle of the unit and start working.

Fix the faceplates on the spindle

To fix the workpiece with such a washer, the corners move to the required position and are fastened with nuts. Each part is securely clamped with bolts, they are screwed into the shelves with a corner with an M8 thread.

do-it-yourself video instruction on how to make a cartridge, faceplate, photo and price

All photos from the article

There are many versions of lathes that can be used to process wood blanks. They can be quite tiny, in which a conventional electric drill is used as a motor, and quite powerful with large power plants and pieces of equipment.

In our case, we will use materials, the main of which can be found in the garage or basement, and the missing ones can be easily purchased at the construction market or in the store.

In the photo - wood lathe 3 in 1

Most of us, most likely, will doubt our abilities and will not even try to repeat the proposal. At the same time, everything written below will not be particularly difficult for those who have ever worked with wood. You will not see any special methods or tricks here, everything is as simple and accessible as possible.

Materials and equipment

Before you learn how to make a wood lathe yourself, you need to prepare for work.

In this case, you will need:

plywood 18 mm thick, from which basically all parts will be made;
boards 50 mm thick for the manufacture of the headstock;
beam with a section of 50x50 mm for the bed.

From the equipment should be prepared:

Electric motor for 220V or 380V, depending on what voltage suits your workshop.
Pulley - it is better to take 3 brooks, with which you can adjust the optimal processing speed. It is advisable to purchase a joint pair.
V-belt.
Drill chuck - used as the main holder on the headstock. This is a kind of homemade chuck for a wood lathe.
An electrical box with a switch and its protection against unauthorized pressing.
Self-tapping screws for wood of various sizes.
Bolts, washers, butterfly nuts and T-nuts.
Plastic protective cover.
Steel plate.
Mounting rail for moving the tailstock along the frame - if its price does not suit you, you can replace it with an aluminum cornice.
Screw rod - regulates the reliability of fixing the workpiece in the centers of the machine.
Union nut - is a stopper on the headstock.
Metal loops - allow for optimal belt tension on the pulleys thanks to the console.
Retaining rings - used to hold bearings in their seats.

A homemade faceplate for a wood lathe is used instead of a lathe chuck

Below is a step by step guide to the process.

Bed manufacturing

The element has an important functional significance and is a solid foundation for the rest of the moving parts of our machine.

"Bed" is made of 2 sheets of plywood, which are interconnected with glue and self-tapping screws:

the first has a size of 18x500x1200 mm;
the second - 25x500x1200 mm.

"Bed" of the future wood lathe

Measure on the beam two pieces 1200 mm long and saw them off.
Install on the "bed" with a step between each other 50 mm.
In each bar in the middle, make grooves for guides 900 mm long for installing headstock and install them.

Tip: Instead of the regular T-shaped rails, you can use used aluminum curtain rods, they work just as well.

Machine engine

In this step, everything will depend on what equipment you can buy or find in your home. We'll be using a grinder motor, but it's best if you can get a low-speed 1750 RPM motor.

Therefore, in our case, we will have to reduce the declared speed of 3000 rpm using sets of pulleys, for which it is better to use two sets - for the motor and the headstock of the machine.

A set of pulleys of different diameters allows you to adjust the speed of rotation of the wooden workpiece

It is enough to purchase 3-step pulleys that will help you set the speed from 700 rpm to more than 4000 rpm on the workpiece. Here is some sample data:

The motor is mounted on a plywood platform, which hangs freely, which creates the necessary belt tension.

The platform for the engine will be plywood, which is hinged to the main frame. At the same time, please note that each of them should be located 60 mm from the edge for secure fastening.

Do-it-yourself homemade wood lathes usually use a belt drive, while you need to move the belts on the pulleys yourself

For easy access to start and stop the equipment, install an on/off button on the front of the lathe. Connection is not difficult - you should insert it into the circuit between the motor and the 220/380 V network.

Protect the button with the top cover from unauthorized start of the equipment

Headstock

The element transmits rotation to the workpiece from the engine, securely holds the equipment parts, so it must be powerful enough. Basically, the dimensions of the headstock depend on the diameter of the pulley. It can be made from hardwood or using a plywood sheet sandwich, which will be no less reliable.

The headstock should be as reliable as possible

In our version, 2 T-shaped blanks made of solid wood with a thickness of 150 mm and a height of 165 mm were used. They were connected to each other with a third workpiece of the "thorn-groove" type. The depth of the structure must correspond to the normal rotation of the largest pulley in diameter.

Tip: You can also make 3 parts of the headstock from plywood.

All elements of the headstock must be securely screwed

Its mechanism consists of two mandrels with bearings and retaining rings. Each of them is screwed with screws to the headstock on both sides.

tailstock

For manufacturing, take a ready-made sandwich from glued plywood sheets.

T-shaped blanks have the following overall dimensions:

width - 150 mm;
height - 215 mm.

Beveled corners of the tailstock do not matter, let it be 25˚

A hole should be made in the center in the upper part, which should coincide in level with the headstock chuck. For reliable fixation of the workpiece in the centers, a screw rod 180 mm long was used.

The tailstock is attached to the frame with butterfly nuts.

A lock nut is also used inside between the parts of the tailstock to limit the extension of the rod.

The lock nut allows you to adjust the extension of the screw rod

Inside, between the parts of the tailstock, it is necessary to insert additional wood elements that will increase its reliability. To move the screw rod from the outside, we recommend making a flywheel from pieces of plywood interconnected.

A plywood flywheel will make it easier to adjust the fastening of the workpiece on the machine

Protection for belt and whetstone

We hope that you have not forgotten how important safety precautions are when working with rotating elements. In our case, we should install a protective cover on the belt and the second part of the grinding mill, so that neither one nor the other can harm us in the event of a break or break.

Make a protective cover for the drive belt and whetstone

In the first case, you can purchase it in a store or make a plastic casing yourself by fixing it on both sides with two bolts and nuts. Its dimensions, for example, can be as follows - 450x170x270 mm. The main thing is that he does not interfere, but only protects the worker.

In the second case, you can use an old plastic bucket of a suitable diameter, which must be fixed above the emery wheel. It will spin constantly, so this protection will never be superfluous.

caliper

To make it, take 18 mm plywood:

From a wooden block measuring 100 by 300 mm, make the base of the element. Then make a groove in it for free movement of bolts with “butterfly” nuts along it, which can securely hold the caliper in the desired position.

Ready caliper on the bed

The second part is designed for installation on the basis of a caliper and is swivel. The bar has rounded corners and two holes for top and bottom mounting.

Mounting the caliper on the frame

The third part - holds the rotary lever.
The fourth element is the main block for holding the support arm. Its sides should be cut at an angle of 45˚ for greater reliability. Can be replaced with metal.

The caliper consists of 6 elements

The most important element is the support arm, which must be glued and screwed to the bottom base as securely as possible. Its size is 100 by 200 mm, the bend of the sides ends at a distance of 30 mm to its top, which is beveled at an angle of 30˚.
A metal plate installed with 4 self-tapping screws on top will reduce wear on the element.

With the support of the caliper, you can process the workpiece on the machine

Tip: before using the caliper, check that the tool can easily slide over the plate.

Output

Today you learned how to make a wood lathe that made the most of wood as the main material - plywood, timber and board. It is quite possible to make this design at home on your own, for which you will need to purchase or use an electric motor with transmission pulleys.

During work, you must not forget about the safety rules and safety glasses. The video in this article will provide an opportunity to find additional information on the above topic.

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Wood lathe chucks, DIY

Turning is a specific branch of woodworking, its difference lies in working with a rotating workpiece driven by a lathe engine. The master produces the supply of the cutting tool (cutter, milling cutter) with his own hands or by means of a mechanical drive. For reliable fixation of the workpiece and transmission of torque to it, various devices and lathe chucks are used, the variety of which is due to the large number of methods and techniques of turning. Some of them can be made by hand without special equipment.

Four-jaw lathe chuck for woodworking machines

Thrust centers

Turning centers are divided into driving (gear) and thrust. The first are installed in the headstock of the machine and directly transmit force; for better grip with the tree, they have several teeth. The latter are placed in the tailstock and support the part; by design, they can be rotating and stationary. As a rule, the centers have a Morse taper shank.

faceplates

Faceplate - a round metal plate with holes for fastening with self-tapping screws, mounted on the machine shaft by means of threads or bolts. They differ in diameter, the presence or absence of teeth and additional fasteners. It is used for turning plates, bowls and other similar products. Often made by hand. The work with the faceplate is thought out so that the part of the wood into which the screws are screwed is subsequently removed.

Faceplate for 4-jaw chuck

Cam lathe chucks

The most comfortable and functional. They work both in compression and in expansion, so they can capture the workpiece both from the outside and from the inside. They differ in the number of cams and their drive mechanism.
Unlike metalworking, two and three-jaw chucks are practically not used for turning wood. Also, options with a spiral drive and fixed cams are not popular.
The most common type of lathe chuck for woodworking is the self-centering four-jaw chuck with rack and pinion and interchangeable jaws.
They are supplied to the Russian market by the brands Axminster, Jet, Barracuda and other less well-known companies.

Jaw lathe chuck 4-jaw lathe chuck Ø150 mm 4-jaw lathe chuck Ø100 mm

Varieties of cams

According to the shape and purpose, interchangeable cams for lathe chucks for wood are divided into several types with special markings:

A, G, M - for compression, differ in size and depth of capture;
D and F - act on unclenching;
C and H are universal. Different shape of sponges;
for work with a soft, sensitive to compression tree, cams with rubber fastenings are used.

Accessories

When turning thin-walled products or working with fragile wood, metal fastening rings are used. Having the skill of handling metal, they can be made with your own hands.
Also, in combination with type C jaws, screw inserts can be used, which are screwed into a hole pre-drilled in the part.
Cartridges designed for specific woodworking tasks:

cam with independent adjustment - for eccentric turning;
collet - clamps round blanks when tightening the petals of a conical collet with a coupling nut. Has a small capture range;
cylindrical - a tube with three or more threaded locks around the circumference;
vise - for capturing rectangular blanks. Parallel jaws are compressed by a screw;
vacuum - for finishing. It works due to the difference in air pressure created by the pump;
drilling - for fixing drills. Attaches to tailstock quill.

Set of driving chucks MK2

Making a lathe chuck for wood with your own hands

For the manufacture of cam chucks, high-precision industrial equipment is required and it is hardly possible to make them in a home workshop. However, there are simpler structures that are easy to build with your own hands.

Homemade woodturning faceplate with adjustable clamps

You will need a flat sheet of steel with a thickness of at least 10 mm, a steel corner 50 × 50 mm, eight M8 × 30 bolts with nuts and washers. You should think in advance how the device will be attached to the machine and, if necessary, make or purchase an appropriate threaded sleeve. After that, you can start:

Mark on the existing plate a circle of the required diameter and two axes passing through the center and intersecting at right angles.
Cut out the workpiece of the faceplate with a jigsaw according to the marking and carefully sand it.
Saw through grooves along the obtained axes, departing from the center a few centimeters and not reaching 2-3 cm to the edges. This is easier to do by pre-drilling slightly larger holes than the stock bolts.
Saw off four identical segments from the corner and drill one of the shelves of each with the same drill.
In the second shelf of the corners, cut the M8 thread and screw in the bolts.
Weld or solder a threaded sleeve for mounting on the shaft.
Screw the corners to the faceplate with bolts through washers.
Fix the resulting cartridge on wood on a lathe.

To fix with such a home-made cartridge, the corners are moved to the desired position and fixed by tightening the nuts, finally the part is pressed with bolts screwed into the threaded shelves.

Do-it-yourself vacuum cartridge for wood

If your lathe's headstock spindle has a through hole for knocking out the gear center, you can supplement your arsenal with a homemade vacuum chuck. For this you will need:

Powerful vacuum cleaner
Closed-type bearing, approximately equal in outer diameter to the vacuum cleaner hose
A piece of dense rubber hose to connect the vacuum cleaner and the bearing
clamp
Standard faceplate with center hole
A small piece of MDF or thick plywood
Textolite for adapter

A sleeve is machined from the textolite, one side of which should be equal in diameter to the internal size of the bearing, the other - to the spindle. This homemade adapter is pressed into the bearing with glue; it will be held in the machine due to the fit. The resulting design is connected by a piece of hose to a vacuum cleaner and fixed with a clamp.

A disk is cut out of MDF or plywood, mounted on a faceplate and turned. It is better to make the surface slightly concave. From above, to ensure a tight fit, linoleum or thin rubber is glued.
In the center, the disk is drilled through to remove air.
Such a handmade chuck provides a clamping force of 40 - 50 kg, sufficient to hold medium-sized parts during finishing.

If you find an error, please highlight a piece of text and click Ctrl+Enter.

One of the most common tools for processing metal blanks is a lathe. With it, you can make elements such as a sleeve, coupling, bolt, nut, flange and others. Equipment can be purchased ready-made in specialized stores, but it is possible to make a home-made metal lathe at home.

Feature of the machines

There are many types of lathes for metal processing. Each of them has its own design features, on which their functionality depends. In addition, each type has the ability to perform additional operations, such as milling or drilling.

Regardless of the type of unit, their design may consist of the following units:

Depending on the type and model of the device, it can be equipped with additional attachments that will increase the functionality of the equipment.

Types of universal devices

Modern manufacturers offer users an extensive list of lathes. Among the most popular, the following types can be distinguished: turning-screw-cutting, turning-milling, turning-carousel, turning-turret.

Screw cutting machine

A feature of this type of equipment is the presence of a tailstock quill stroke. Thanks to this, it is possible to equip it with a drilling chuck. This allows you to use the machine not only for turning operations, but also for turning workpieces with different profiles, leveling, making grooves and recesses in workpieces, cutting sizes to the required dimensions, and drilling holes. To do this, dies, cutters or taps can be used.

Through the use of screw-cutting lathes, it is possible to work with workpieces made of ferrous or non-ferrous metals. This type of device is most often used in tool industries, in the field of instrumentation or watchmaking.

If the choice fell on a screw lathe, it is recommended to take into account its following properties:

Milling device

With the help of this type of equipment, it is possible to machine blanks not only from ferrous and non-ferrous metals, but also from plastic and wood. The design of the device combines two types of machines (milling and turning).

The universal turning-milling machine can be used to perform such operations as turning, threading, chamfering, picking fillets, cutting straight and curved grooves, drilling holes. This became possible due to the presence of a milling part located in the vertical plane of the bed. Such machines are often installed in school workshops.

The popularity of turning and milling equipment is due to the presence of its inherent advantages:

Availability. The combination of the two types of machines results in cost savings.
Compact size. It can be installed in a workshop with a small area.
Possibility of mounting various additional elements (cutter, drill, tap, reamer, cutter, chisel).

When choosing this type of equipment, it is necessary to take into account its following characteristics:

distance between centers;
workpiece size;
diameter of miter and end mills.

The presence of these qualities determines the popularity of turning and milling equipment among users.

carousel

Machines of this type are mainly used for processing large diameter (more than 2000 mm) and dimensions in large enterprises.

Revolving unit

The main purpose of this type of device is to process workpieces made from a calibrated bar. The peculiarity of the machines lies in the fastening of the cutting mechanism, which is carried out on a rotating drum.

CNC machine tools

In the course of work with this type of machines the minimum participation of the operator is required. It is also worth noting the ability to perform all types of operations with high accuracy.

Each of the above types of metal lathes has design features and purpose.

Self-manufacturing

If we talk about what you can do with a drill with your own hands, you should pay attention to a lathe that can be made at home. This will help not only save money, but also make it possible to perform a fairly large list of operations with different materials.

In order to make a lathe for metal with your own hands, the drawings of which can be found in the specialized literature, you must first decide on the bed. It is considered one of the most significant pieces of equipment. It is on the bed that the turning attachment for the drill is mounted.

For the manufacture of the bed, you can use a plate made of a material such as wood, up to 21 mm thick. The drill is fixed by the neck of its body, on which the auxiliary handle will subsequently be mounted.

In order to be able to cut materials such as plywood or hardboard, it is necessary to install a circular saw in the drill chuck on the frame, the diameter of which does not exceed 2 mm. To ensure the convenience of working with the machine, you can also mount an additional handle.

It is possible to replace the disc with a flat cutter. Due to this, the operator will be able to perform grooves of small depth.

Now you can proceed to the implementation of the emphasis, which is designed to perform the function of the tailstock. Thus, a do-it-yourself home-made caliper for a lathe can be made from two wooden blocks and one adjustment screw with a sharpened tip. This will make it possible to use the machine for processing small wooden blanks.

If we talk about how to make a lathe from a drill, it should be borne in mind that there are several options for devices that you can make yourself, the main thing is to have a ready-made template.

The caliper tends to wear out during the operation of the machine. At the same time, the possibility of a backlash is not excluded, which will negatively affect the quality of the operation performed. To avoid this situation, it is recommended to periodically adjust and fine-tune the caliper.

The woodworking joiner's machine has a frame. For its manufacture, you can use beams or metal channels. Their thickness and dimensions are directly dependent on the load with which the equipment will be operated.

Shafts with guides located longitudinally are mounted on the beams. For their fastening, you can use a welding machine, bolts or a screwdriver.

The headstock can be made of a hydraulic cylinder, in the cavity of which two bearings are mounted. The wall thickness of the cylinder can vary from 5 mm or more. The cavity of the hydraulic cylinder is filled with a special lubricating fluid. Then the electric drive is mounted.

The electric motor is responsible for the movement of the cutting part of the machine. Engine power is directly dependent on the power of the device. When choosing it, it is necessary to take into account the size of the workpieces, to be processed on the wall:

to work with small workpieces, you can use a drive with a power of not more than 1 kW;
if it is necessary to process large-sized workpieces, it is necessary to choose an engine whose power ranges from 1.5 to 2.5 kW.

A manual machine for processing metal or wood should be assembled taking into account the fact that all its components must be insulated. This will ensure the safety of the operator when working with the machine, as well as the strength of the structure.

Possible options for the cutting mechanism

The easel mechanism is necessarily equipped with a cutting part. There are several options for this node. Among the most reliable are the following:

The right choice of equipment will provide the ability to perform an extensive list of operations when processing workpieces, increase the accuracy of the work, and also reduce the time to complete it. And self-production of a lathe for metal processing will help reduce the funds needed to purchase ready-made equipment.

The quality and performance of any equipment depends directly on the state of its equipment. It is especially important to accurately, quickly and reliably fix workpieces on CNC machines and machine tools that work as part of the FMS. To reduce the time for the location of the workpiece on the machine, as well as to increase the reliability and accuracy of its fastening, chucks for lathes are widely used.

Features of the lathe chuck

The lathe chuck is an integral part of the equipment complex for lathe work. This structural part is intended for fixing piece blanks and bar material on screw-cutting, grinding, turret and lathe machines, as well as metalworking equipment. With the help of a lathe chuck, you can fix workpieces of a wide variety of sizes. The blanks are attached to the inner plane of its hole, the outer surface or the outer surface for the shaft.

Lathe chucks with mechanized drives can reduce the auxiliary time required to install the workpiece on the equipment and remove it after processing, thereby increasing labor productivity. On the other hand, these products increase the accuracy of processing, as they provide coordination of the workpieces relative to the working bodies of the lathe and their reliable fastening, which eliminates deformation or displacement during processing.

Rohm (Germany), Bison-bial (Poland), as well as some domestic factories of technical equipment, tools and machine units are one of the most famous world manufacturers of wood lathe chucks in Europe. These products are quite expensive, but today it is simply impossible to imagine production without the use of lathe chucks.

The principle of operation of the lathe chuck

The use of the lathe chuck should be done indoors and in the absence of aggressive substances that provoke corrosion. The coupling bolts are tightened to the maximum with a wrench before starting work, then the lathe chuck is fixed on the machine, all bolts are tightened with nuts and the lathe is started. It should be borne in mind that low speeds are set to begin with to check the values \u200b\u200bof the end and radial beats of the lathe chuck at idle.

For fastening products on lathes, two- and three-jaw chucks are widely used, less often four-jaw chucks. To fasten and hold parts, the lathe chuck contains cams, the number of which varies from 2 to 6. At the same time, lathe chucks come with independent movement of the cams and with direct fastening of the cams to the flanged end of the spindle. Depending on the method of fastening the lathe chuck to the machine, the following types of fastening are distinguished: on the flanged end of the spindle, through the adapter flange, directly on the lathe spindle itself.

The centering of the workpiece in the chucks is achieved by simultaneously moving the clamping jaws in the radial direction. The cams of the lathe chuck move simultaneously with the help of a disk, which has grooves on one side in the form of an Archimedean spiral bevel gear, which is associated with three others, on the other. The key sets one wheel in motion, while the disk also rotates and moves all the cams evenly. The direction of rotation of the disk will determine whether the cams approach the center of the chuck (the workpiece is clamped) or move away from it (the workpiece is released).

The clamping force in power chucks is generated by a hydraulic or pneumatic cylinder, which is located at the rear end of the spindle. Through the central hole of the spindle, the cylinder is connected by a rod to the chuck mechanism, which moves the cams, which clamp the installed workpiece into the chuck.

Compressed air or liquid enters the rotating cylinder during processing using a special device called a clutch. As a rule, the movement of the cams from a mechanized drive reaches 5-10 millimeters, so the design of the lathe chuck in any case allows you to quickly readjust the product when switching from processing between batches of workpieces.

To improve the accuracy of fastening the workpiece when performing finishing, it is customary to use unhardened overhead cams that are bored on the machine to fit certain dimensions of the workpiece mounting bases. For this purpose, a short mandrel is clamped with the main cams to select the gaps in all mates, and after that the working surfaces of the overhead cam are bored to the largest diameter of the base surface of the part.

The design of non-hardened cams and their fastening by means of a dovetail interface allows overhead cams to be set with an accuracy of 0.02 mm and to avoid their next boring.
For quick changeover between workpiece sizes, universal non-hardened jaws are required, this is achieved by turning into a certain position the round or hex heads of top jaws, which are mounted on the main jaws and bored to the desired diameter. Workpieces of large diameter are fixed in such a chuck with the reverse placement of the stages of the cams.

When it becomes necessary to process two similar surfaces, it is customary to use non-hardened cams, in which the error in fixing workpieces can be reduced to 0.03-0.05 millimeters. Workpieces such as shafts that are long can be installed in a lathe chuck that has a rear center preload.

DIY lathe chuck

You got acquainted with the device and the main types of lathe chucks, and now your attention is presented to the option of a home-made lathe chuck for a woodworking machine. The main working part of the cartridge is an elastic sleeve that has a diameter of 6 millimeters. It is necessary to use two types of bushings - polyurethane and rubber, for which you can take scraps of sealing harnesses.

The union nut must be made of brass or bronze. Steel can also be used for this purpose, but bronze nuts have less friction. Piglet can be made from any material, you can even take duralumin. Carve the body out of steel. An internal hole or thread must be present in its shank - this depends on the arrangement of the shaft shank of the apparatus on which the cartridge is to be installed.

The rubber bushing and body are the most critical parts in the cartridge. It depends on how accurately they are made whether the drill clamped in the chuck will “beat”. To reduce the likelihood of "beating" of the drill, make both parts in a certain sequence. Turn the chuck body on the machine in one setting. Such a technique will ensure, with a certain accuracy, the alignment of the central hole and the shank for the sleeve.

The chuck body will remain in the lathe spindle after machining. Insert the blank of the elastic sleeve inside the cartridge and slightly press it through the snout with the union nut. Insert a 1 mm drill into the tailstock of the machine and drill out the clamped sleeve. Using this method, it is advisable to make several bushings in stock.

If you are unable to lock the shaft of the drilling device when clamping the drill, you need to make flats for the wrench on the body of the homemade lathe chuck so that you can tighten the cap nut tightly. In a lathe chuck, you can clamp drills that have a diameter of 0.8 to 1.2 millimeters. For drills of a different diameter, the holes in the nut and sleeve must be made different.

The main difference of this cartridge lies in the fact that the elastic sleeve will clamp the entire shank of the drill, and in order to install a standard drill into the Verbovoy chuck, it is recommended to cut off its shank. Make a hole for the elastic sleeve not in the nut, but in the chuck body, it should be as close as possible to the clamping device of the machine spindle. This significantly increases the accuracy of centering the drill during installation.

Now you know what lathe chucks are for, and what function they perform when working on a lathe. In addition, it is not at all difficult to make a lathe chuck with your own hands. To do this, first of all, you need to determine the environment for using the product and strictly follow our instructions.

All photos from the article

There are many versions of lathes with which you can. They can be quite tiny, in which a conventional electric drill is used as a motor, and quite powerful with large power plants and pieces of equipment.

In our case, we will use materials, the main of which can be found in the garage or basement, and the missing ones can be easily purchased at the construction market or in the store.

In the photo - wood lathe 3 in 1